Oxford Shoe Specification

Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.

Oxford shoe

An Oxford shoe is characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp, a feature termed "closed lacing". This contrasts with Derbys, or Blüchers, which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp. Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for both formal, uniform, and casual wear. Based on function and the dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather, suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned (Brogue).

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Historical Background

• Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style didn't appear in North America until the 1800s. In the United States. Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type". In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu.

• Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

• Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot in order to give men a mincing step. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

• The meaning of "Oxford" and "Balmoral" may vary geographically. In the U.S. "Balmoral" is often synonymous with "Oxford". In the U.K. "Oxford" often means any more formal lace-up shoe, including the Blucher and Derby.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

• In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt, a style common on boots. Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than those with open lacing (Bluchers/Derbys).

• Oxford shoes, which were among the first men’s laced shoes, were worn in the 17th century, often by men attending a university. Unlike their predecessors, early laced shoes were cut smaller than the foot, which gave men a mincing step.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Cont.……

• They were associated with foppery, fine dressing and a particular social class. These shoes are also sometimes called Balmorals, but because they were most associated with college men, they took on the name of Oxford University.

• Americans wouldn’t see many of these shoes until the early 19th century, and by then, many modifications had been made.

• Today, Oxford shoes are considered men’s dress shoes that lace up. They are usually made of leather or suede, but some less expensive or vegan varieties feature non-animal hide shoes.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Cont.……

Women’s wear

Women’s oxford shoes are trending in the world of fashion; however, this trend dates back to the early nineteenth century. Borrowed from men’s footwear style, women’s oxfords have received immense popularity since the 1920s including much attention in the 1940s-1950. The body of the oxford shoe is created to appear as a flawless portion of leather, with a second leather piece forming the toe-cap. The differences in styles are generally due to the ornamentation: taller heels and designer colours. Since the current women’s oxfords draw ideas not only from the men’s shoe, but also from almost any conceivable source, the women’s variety has more freedom in terms of design, choice, and less adherence to tradition. This implies that Oxford shoes can fit almost every woman’s preferred style.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Fig: Women’s oxford shoe

Women’s oxford shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Basic Features of Oxford Shoe Laced up shoe with eyelets.

Vamp overlaps the quarter.

Has an independent tongue which is stitched at final stage of the upper.

Quarter is locked at the vamp point and hence the opening of the quarter is limited.

Close Facing.

A wide range of styles can be derived from this design.

Most widely used as formal shoe.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Oxford Shoe

Tongue

Lacing

Vamp Toe cap

OutsoleQuarter

Heel

Top Line

Eyelet

Fig: Oxford Shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Vamp overlaps the quarter

Vamp overlaps the

quarter

Quarter

Vamp

Fig: Oxford Shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Vamp and tongue will be the separate pattern

Tongue

Vamp

Fig: Oxford Shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Close Facing

Close facing

Fig: Oxford Shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Close Facing and Open Facing

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Oxford Shoe

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

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S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Presented by:S. M. Murshidur Rahman

Department of Leather Engineering,Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.

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