INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

SEA MOSS KNITWEAR LTD.

At a glance SEA MOSS KNITWEAR LTD.

Name of the factory : SEA MOSS KNITWEAR LTD..

Year of Establishment : 2004

Status (Legal Structure) : Private Limited Company

Export Market : Europe

Sales Turnover : 22 Million USD

Annual GMT production : 1 Million Pcs/ Year

Total manpower : 700

Buyer :Newtop, Plummy, SBP, Zxy,T ex geoup, H&M

etc

PRODUCT : LADIS :BRIEF, BIKINI, BOYSHORT, PANTY, THONG,

HI-CUT, STRING, BRA, KAMISOL, AND OTHER

LINGERIES.

: MENS : MEN’S BOXER, UNDER GARMENTS

KIDS : BODY SUIT

:GIRLS/BOYS : ALL TYPES UNDERGARMENTS,

SLEEPWEAR & DRESSES

CAPACITY : 80,000 DZNS -100,000 DZNS PER MONTH

SHIPMENT PORT : SEA -CHITTAGONG-BANGLADESH

AIR – DHAKA, BANGLADESH

TRADE TERMS : CMT/ F.O.B/ CNF

MODE OF PAYMENT : IRREVOCALE LETTER OF CREDIT AT SIGHT

T/T

BANKER : SOUTHEAST BANK LIMITED, KAWRAN

BAZAR BRANCH, DHAKA, BANGLADESH.

Factory : 228, Pial Cottage, Kawlar, Dakhinkhan, Dhaka-

1229, Bangladesh

Telephone Number : +88-2-8933461

TABLE OF CONTENT

CHAPTER-1

INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………6

CHAPTER 2

FACTORY PROFILE…………………………………………….7

CHAPTER-3

GARMENTS MERCHANDISING ……………………………..9

CHAPTER-4

STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM…………………………...18

CHAPTER-5

SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER ……………………………....24

CHAPTER-6

CUTTING SECTION ……………………………………………34

CHAPTER-7

SEWING SECTION………………………………………………50

CHAPTER-8

FINISHING SECTION……………………………………….…..60

CHAPTER-9

Compliance/HR………….………………………………….64

CHAPTER-10

Conclusion……….…………………………………………68

INTRODUCTION

In Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. there consists a Training Center which is

exceptional from the other factory. It is seen that majority percent of

factories has no Training center. This center trains the fresh worker. This is

help for bulk production and increase the efficiency and ultimately

production is increased. There consists all type of sewing machine for

practice. For supervision a manager and two supervisor trains the worker.

They guide all day long. It is added here that some time a worker who

trains for someday has to give for making local garments and with the

concentration of the factory those sell in local market. By this practice a

worker can get the proper idea about the floor level production.

This training section also helps the worker to-

operation of a sewing machine

Familiar with the different parts of a sewing machine

Give a brief idea about the adjustable portion of a sewing

machine

Make them as the identification where they are suitable for work

in different section

Know about the process sequence of different garment

FACTORY PROFILE

Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. based in Bangladesh, is a woven factory with sustained

goodwill and expertise in exports oriented ready-made garment manufacturing.

Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. has earned unrivalled success and remarkable distinction

in the field of ready made garments local and international trading. The company

started their ready-made garment manufacturing unit in the year of 2000. At the

beginning they started with two lines of garments production unit with 200

manpower. But now a day they have 10 garments production lines with 700

manpower. Coming soon they started a largest Textile Composite unit. For this

they purchases 170 acres land area Dhakkinkhan, Dhaka Industrial Area .

Mission and Vision:

Mission:

Starting from the beginning, Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. has put emphasis

on quality and credibility which helped a lot in earning buyers

confidence upholding a customer centered perspective. Highly

professionals of Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. are working consistently to

ensure best support to the valuable clients. For regular buyers

dedicated lines of production and specific merchandisers are

there to customize the service and ensure successful execution of

order.

Vision:

1. To build up an organization that runs with a motivated work

force, beliefs in customer satisfaction, posse’s good

marketing strategy.

2. To be one of the leading composite factory in Asia

subcontinent within ten years.

3. To create & recruit 1 lac employee in Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. within

the year of 2030.

MERCHANDISING

The Merchandiser

An individual, who acts as a coordinator, follows-up and takes total responsibility of an order form booking to shipment and beyond, for the customer who placed it and for his company’s management.

Merchandising

The Merchandising is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade .The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought & sold.

The term merchandising may be defined as person who merchandises good ,specially for

export purposes. Garments merchandising means buying

raw materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining

required quality level & exporting the garments within schedule

time.

Merchandising Management system:

Buyer sends an order copy by e-mail or sometimes swatch also.

E-mail is taken hand from (Order copy)

The measurement of various parameters are inserted by coding number in the order copy like-

Quantity of garments,

Yarn type,

Count,

Fabric type,

Color,

Body measurement,

Shipment date etc.

Before ultimate order a development sample is sent to buyer.

Lab-dip is approved

Sampling is carried out.

The sample is sent to buying house to check.

After approved the sample then accessories

and fabrics are booked. Finally shipment is done after all clearance.

The merchandiser basically follows up with all concern production departments for their ordered products.

The major functions/steps of a merchandiser:

Procuring the garments order.

Procuring the raw materials.

Production of garments.

Shipments of garments.

Receiving of payment for garments

GARMENTS MERCHANDISING

Flow sequence of merchandising section:

Received PDF Sheet

Consumption

Costing

Negotiation with Buyer

Order Received

Purchase Order Sheet Received

L.C Opening

Purchase Fabric & Accessories

Time & Action Setting

Approval For Bulk Production

Related To Production Planning

Start Bulk Production

Inspectio

The steps are shown as diagramacally:

a

Buyer confirms a order to a factory

Production planning and pre production meeting:

Initial planning is prepared by the merchandising department when the order confirmed.

Based on the sample approval and shipment date, the production department makes the planning of the production only.

The planning is done following the styling of the product and the machine lay out to calculate the number of pieces production per hour.

Before production commence, pre production meeting is necessary with all concerned departments to get the correct productions.

Production: sample development, planning, quality control and inspection (AQL)

Quality Control and Inspection [AQL]:

Customer wise the quality requirement will get vary and merchandisers are responsible to communicate with customers to get the correct quality requirements and need to co-ordinate with factory quality control department so that they will well understand the requirement and can take care of the bulk productions.

Inspections are done during production which is called in line inspection. Later the final inspection done by the factory QC as well as buying office QC to make sure that the final products is shipping with right quality.

Mentioned that, the right quality not good quality as the ‘quality’ refers to customer’s requirement.

Costing/Pricing

Costing is the principal task of any merchandisers.

Methods of Pricing:

Calculate the fixed and variable costs associated with the product.

Also below cost elements need to consider during costing. ~ Pricing for Fibers & Yarns ~ Pricing for fabric manufacturing ~ Pricing for garment manufacturing ~ Cost of accessories ~ Commercial cost ~ Break even point ~ Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage percentage. ~ Total cost analysis [how much does it cost to provide merchandise to end customer

Commercial

LC: Letter of Credit- Once the order is confirmed, buyer’s bank issues a Letter of Credit (LC) to the manufactures Bank. With this LC, manufactures can start procurement of yarn, fabric, accessories etc necessary for particular order execution.

If the LC delayed from buyers end, it will impact on the delivery date and merchandisers need to follow this up with buyer to get the LC for on time delivery.

Back to Back L/C: To procure the yarn, fabric and accessories, suppliers need to open another LC for secondary suppliers bank based on the master LC. This secondary suppliers LC is called back to back LC.

Accessories:

1) Sewing threads and sew able item a. Thread

b. Button

c. Main label

d. Size label

e. Care label

f. Velcro (Hook and loop fastener)

g. lace etc.

2) Finishing item: a. Price ticket

b. Hang tag

c. Poly bag

d. Back board

e. Neck board

f. Collar inside

g. Butter fly (Single, Double)

h. Tag pin

i. Tissue paper

j. Draw string and stopper etc.

Order follow-up and execution:

They do it during running the production. As a result if any fault occurring it

rectified in the primary stage.

Here, a example is given below how way a order is follow-up and done...

Buyer: Guldenpfenning Gmbh

Order: 500074

Item: Girls Summer Dress

Article: 699,608 &635

Orde Quantity: 123504 Pcs/4156 Crt.

Factory: Shagore Garment Ltd.

Delivery: 30.01.2010

Buyer Development Process:

1) Reports & exports documents

2) Sample follow-up

3) Supplier/factory message

4) Buyer message

5) Order detailse

6) Trim approval

7) Fabric approval

8) Requirement break down

9) L/C

10) Pre-order papers

Arranging final inspection:

After completion the garment making merchandiser arrange final inspection date

with quality department. Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer.

Now a days most of the buyer follow 2.5% AQL.Here given Bellow 2.5% AQL

system:

AQL 2.5%:

Lot Size Sample Size

Acceptable Rejectable

26-50 8

1 2

51-90 13

1 2

91-150 20

1 2

151-280 32

2 3

281-500 50

3 4

501-1200 80

5 6

1201-3200 125

7 8

3201-10,000 200

10 11

10,001-35,000 315

14 15

35,001-150,000 500

21 22

STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM Inventory:

Inventory is the stock of any item or resources used in an Organization.

Fabric storage:

Supplied Grey fabrics are first subjected to the 4 point inspection system and fabric

allowance point is 28 per 100 yards. Only those goods are stored here which are

passed from the quality control department. And defected fabrics are back to the

supplier.

The types of fabric defect are check in 4 point inspection system:

- Oil spot

- Missing yarn

- Dye defect

- Hole

- Color yarn

- Drop pick

- Net

- Knot

- Broken yarn

- Slub yarn

- Color shading

FIG: FABRIC STORE

4- Point inspection system:

Defects (length wise): Penalty point:

1. 0-3 inch……………………………1 2. 3-6 inch……………………………2 3. 6-9 inch……………………………3 4. 9 inch & above…………………....4 5. Any hole& miss pick……………...4

Example: Suppose inspected fabric length=100 yds, fabric width=50 inch, and following

faults are found.

Faults length No of faults

0-3 inch 3

3-6 inch 5

6-9 inch 3

9 inch & above 2

We know,

Points/100 yds= Total penalty points*100*36

Fabric length*Fabric width

13 3

Points /100 yds = ------×100×-----

100 50

= 09.36 per 100 sq/yds

Fabric inventory:

Various types of fabric and accessories such as sewing tread, button,

interlining, label etc are stored in central room. Here also machine sparse

parts and stationary are stored in store room.

The flow sequence of fabric inventory is given below:

Received the fabric

Pre-inspection

Physical inventory

Make the swatch card

Prepare blanket shade

Shade segregation

Issue fabric to cutting room.

Fabric is separated and according to lot number.

Accessories inventory:

Flow sequence of accessories inventory is given below

Import receive

Physical inventory

Swatch making

Swatch approval from buyer

Register/Record the entry

Supply to sub store according to demand

Issue to bulk production

Accessories inventory item:

Hanger size: Identify the size of the garment by hanger

Label: Labels are the most important trimmings by which customer

easily, know about the product. Here two types of label are

available:

1. Main label: It contains the name of buyer and country. Ex. Wal-

Mart, USA etc

2. Sub label:

i. Size label: It contains the size of the garment ii. Care label: It contains care construction. Different types

of care label are given below. a. Washing code b. Bleaching code c. Ironing code d. Dry cleaning code e. Drying code

iii. Cost label: It contains the cost of garments. iv. Composition: It contains fiber composition of the fabric.

Ex 65% cotton, 35%polyester.

Sewing thread:

Different types of sewing treads are available in store room. Such as

60/3 (100% polyester) 50/3 (core spun yarn) 40/3 (100% polyester) 20/3 (100% cotton) etc

Button:

Many types of button are available in store room. Some examples of button

are given below.

Horn button Purl button Shank button Snap button Coconut button Chalk button

Amount determination of button:

There are two systems of determination the amount of amount. These are

given below.

1. 1G.G =12GRS 2. Each cartoon contain 750 gross

1 gross =144 pcs

750 gross =144×750=108000 pcs

Interlining:

Types of interlining are available in store room are given below.

o Dot fuse. o Paper fuse. o T.C interlining. o Non fuse etc

SAMPLE, PATTERN, MARKER

SAMPLE

Sample making is one of the most important activities in the garment manufacturing process. The manufacturer always needs at least a sketch of the garment, original patterns, specification and the designer’s sample to make high quality sample garments at the contractor’s factories. Garments factories are used different name used for different types of samples. In the sample departments of garment factories different type of sample are made for different purposes.

Flow sequence of sample section is given below:

Receive developed sheet from buyer

Develop the sample

Send the sample to buyer for approval

Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)

Send pre-production sample to buyer

Start bulk production

Types of sample produce by Sample Section according to buyer demand:

There is various type of sample those are given below:

1. Original sample:

This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer sketch

and measurement.

2. Photo/ Develop sample:

Here measurement is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories

3. Seal sample:

Seal sample is approved by the buyer with tag.

4. Size set:

All sizes of sample are produced such as S, M, L, XL, etc, and send to buyer.

6. Pre-production sample:

First garment of bulk production is called pre- production sample.

7. Add sample:

For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample.

8. Sales man sample:

To supply the new product in different showroom, buyer wants this sample.

9. Photo sample:

Only photograph of the product is send to buyer.

10. Shipment/ Reference sample:

After completion the shipment of the garment some garment are kept in sample room

which are known as shipment or reference sample.

11. Pre-line sample:

This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production.

12. Lab-test sample:

Sample is tested by third party or buyer’s nominated lab.

Pattern making

This department provides patterns of different design for sample preparation.

Samples are not large scale production, they are small in quality .So plotting

machines are not used for samples. Patterns are made by drawing the design on

drawing papers and then cutting them manually. A sequence can be shown:

Design → pattern → sample preparation

Generally, finished pattern is provided by buyer. Then allowance is added and

patterns are graded.

Pattern making process:

Manually

By Computer

By Computer:

With CAD System -Concept drawing accomplished by computer

With Digitizing System - where master pattern is made manual on hard pattern

paper.

-Patterns are laid-out on the sensitized table &placed cursor around the pattern.

-Modified and graded them directly on screen.

CAD Section work flow

CAD section

Block pattern

Pattern Digitizing by Digitizer machine

Pattern Grading pointwaise

Marker Making

Costing consumption marker

Booking

Cutting

Go to bulk production

Marker making:

Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just

before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is

equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric

i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.

The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously

minimize wastages.

Objects of marker making:

- To reduce cost;

- To improve the quality of the garments;

- To reduce the cutting time;

- To facilitate large scale production.

Possibilities of marker making:

Generally there are two methods by which marker can be made –

MANUAL METHOD:

The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and

requires more time. Manually two types of marker are made –

1. Full size marker:

Full size marker is made for production purpose.

2. Miniature type marker:

Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and

learn or study i.e. for planning and learning purposes.

COMPUTERIZED METHOD:

Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized

method. In this system, a man performs it by himself using computer

software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably less time than

manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using

computerized system –

1.Full size marker:

Using ‘Digitalizing Board’ the pattern pieces are input into the computer.

Computer uses software and a marker paper is printed out that will be used

in the production.

2.Miniature type marker:

Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is

printed from the computer.

Factors considered during marker making:

The important factors considered during marker making are –

Nature of the Fabric:

The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the

fabric should be

considered during marker making.

Lay planning of patterns:

Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should

be taken under consideration.

Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line:

It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp

direction of a fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain line

indicates the warp or wale direction.

Requirements of cutting:

Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making

the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It

may produce more wastage and may reduce the dimensions of patterns.

Production planning:

Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may un at a time in an

industry. So during marker making it should be considered.

Size of marker:

During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric,

etc.

Marker Efficiency:

The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the

maker paper is technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in

percentage. If it is denoted by the symbol ή then –

Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area

of the Marker paper) * 100

The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency –

Manufacturers of the marker;

Size of pattern pieces;

Length of the marker;

Pattern Engineering;

Nature of the fabric;

Method of marker making;

Marker width;

Kinds or design of garments.

The hinders of marker making are –

Grain Line:

Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making. Because of grain

line sometimes it is tough to place the pattern pieces on to the marker,

even though it is possible the wastage become higher.

Design of Garments:

Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as

constraints of marker making. The patterns may miss the designs or may

overlap the designs.

Nature of the Fabric:

Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker

making. Nature of the fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric.

Cutting Accuracy:

Accurate cutting may be one of the constraints of marker making.

Production Planning:

Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of

garments, etc.

Fabric wastages inside and outside of the marker

INSIDE WASTAGE:

That wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the

marker paper. It depends on the efficiency of the marker maker and on the size of

the patterns as well.

OUTSIDE WASTAGE:

Besides the inside wastages, some fabric is wasted outside of the marker –

Ends of the ply losses:

Generally each ply of the fabric losses up to 4 cm at both sides (Two sides * 2 cm).

End of fabric losses:

The length of fabric may sometimes not cover the ply, it may finish its end at less

than 5 yards (cut piece). This piece of fabric goes through wastage and is called

end of fabric losses.

Selvedge losses:

Generally selvedge losses are 2% to 3%.

Purchase losses:

Sometimes losses may arise from purchase. Wrong consumption calculation may

cause huge wastage.

Fabric inspection CUTTING SECTION

Fabric Inspection: When the fabrics are received from the dyeing and finishing

section, it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be

supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the cutting section has

to check it. Otherwise the end products will be faulty. For this,

the fabric is being inspected by the quality inspector of the

cutting section. They check the fabric fully and find out the

faults. Then mark it so that, these faulty portion of the fabric can

be rejected during spreading and cutting. Then the fabric is

being stored for relaxation

.

Fig: Finished Fabric Inspection

Fabric inspection

1. GSM Check

2. Dia Check

3. Fault Check

4. Point Calculation

5. Four point system calculation

6. Prepared fabric inspection report

7. Prepared weight sheet

8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)

Fabric Relaxation: When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains

a slightly hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric.

So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is not in actual condition.

But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure for a

certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and

regains its original nature. This process is called fabric relaxation.

Another cause of fabric relaxation is to maintain the dimensional

stability of produced garments. When the fabric is being processed in

different finishing machines, it goes under certain heat and pressure to

give it proper shape. But when the heat and pressure is being withdrawn,

the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became stabilized before

cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very before

cutting

.

Fig: Fabric Relaxation

Cutting

Introduction:

Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment

industry. For a little mistake full order may be cancelled. With the false

measurement a big portion of garment may employed. With very care this

section is handled.

In Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. there consists 3 cutting table. From the

sample section marker comes out. For stripe & variegated rib fabric there is

no marker use because if use the marker for stripe fabric, frequently don’t

match the stripe of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to

match the stripe. Manually the stripe fabric is spreader out on the cutting

table. Only marker is used for the solid dyed fabric. Normally big marker

length is 5.5 yards & thickness of lay is 4 inch.

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

In Echo Tex Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the Straight Knife

Cutting Machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is

very sharp and change this on the basis of fabric quantity & composition,

normally in every after 4 days. Here, in the below give a short description

on this machine:

FLOW SEQUENCE OF CUTTING

Fabric inspection

Fabric send to store

Fabric received from store

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Setting marker on the fabric lay

Fabric cutting

Numbering

Prepared the bundling card

Bundling

Quality inspection & front part- back part are fold together

store

FABRIC SPREADING:

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric

type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the

firm’s quality standards. Spreading requires a flat, smooth surface. If the

spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also must be level.

Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated

cutting often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but

separate locations.

Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that

correspond to fabric width. Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider

table. A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the

fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or

both sides of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track

helps guide and control the spreader as it moves up and down the length

of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks are geared to

synchronize the movement of the spreading machine with fabric

unrolling, in order to regulate tension.

Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Machine Name : K.M. Company Cloth Cutting Machine

Model : KM KS-AUV

Producer : Made By K.M. Cutting Machine Co, JAPAN

Price : US $189.00

Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening.

Dimension : 8" W x 11" L x 24" H (weight 33.5Lb)

Current : A. C (3.3/2.6 amps)

Speed : 3000/ 3600

Fig: Main Motor Portion

Fig: Blade Portion

Short Note:

Machine power up, Motor run smooth and powerful. Blade moved as it should, The sharpening mechanism came down. Machine is very well made, looks like a top of the line product. Is has a very good appearance and seems to be working fine.

Advantages:

As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and

maximum lay height could be cut, used extensively in

garment industries.

Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round

knife.

Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the

lay.

Quick fabric cutting.

Components could be cut out directly from the fabric

lay.

Grinding could be done during cutting.

Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:

Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the

motor.

Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the

deflection.

Possibility of accident is higher.

Quality Department of cutting section:

A.Q.M/Q.M (Quality manager)

C.Q.C (Shade maintain)

C.Q.C (Spreading inspection)

C.Q.C (Cut part inspection with pattern)

Bundle card and numbering inspection\

C.Q.I (Cut panel inspection 100%)

C.Q.I (Embroidery)

C.Q.I (Cut fabric fault change)

Equipment need in cutting section:

Name of equipment Specification

Gerber auto cutter Blade length=10 inch

Straight knife cutting m/c Length=8-10 inch, width=2 inch

Spreading Table Length up to 100 metter

Globs

Mask

Fabric cutting methods are as follows:

Fig: Scissor

Manual Method Computerized Method Scissor Knife Cutting

Round knife water jet Band knife Laser cutting Straight knife Plasma torch cutting

Fig: Metal Hand Gloves

Summary Working Procedure in Cutting Section:

Follow production planning.

Sample collect from sample section with pattern and garments

approved.

Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section (fabric width,

Item, Coloretc.).

Lay order sheet fill up ok then send to cad section for marker

making.

Marker making ok.

Fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting

according to plan.

Fabric is coming in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.

Fabric matches to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric width &

length as per

Then layering starts manual & machines all fabric.

Pocketing and interlining.

After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric.

Marker check by pattern in quality people.

Keep all document make & style. Color. And size wise send

report to store & sewing line.

Before cutting cutter man attach clamp. Gum tap on the

layer.

If marker have drill mark then need to drill.

Cutting start by cutter man.

Then group and ratio wise stricken.

As per lay order sheet make bundle chart and send to i.e.

Section for bundle card printing.

As per bundle chart wise numbering.

Then panel check.

If have any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shad

wise then bundle and send to line by input girl.

If have any fusing, embroidery than send to this section.

When the cutting process is complete, the entire garment

components are inspected for required production.

Spreading and Cutting Stage Problem:

Effect Cause

Lack of Sufficient

fabric Relaxation

Operators are not allowing sufficient time

for

relaxation

Too many no of plies

during spreading

Ply height was found to be more than 7”

Excessive dragging

during spreading

Higher dragging tension maintained

between

spreader roller to lay

Blunt knife edges Edges of knife are not sharp and it leads

to

uneven shaping

Sticker Tagging: After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The

sticker tagging is an important part in this section. Due to fabric

numbering or batching the sticker is tag on the cutting fabric surface.

s.

Bundling: After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments

components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid

mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

Fig: Sorting / Bundling When sorting / bundling are complete, all the garment components are sending to

the sewing section.

LIMITATIONS OF CUTTING SECTION

Input problem.

Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send

to cutting floor and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the

table.

There is may be no group for any table

Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together.

The faulty body parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not

match by the same batch.

Cutting quality man may not be trained

Check, Varigated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a

result reject percentage may be increased.

Fabric spreading

There is may be no identification number to the rest of the

cutting piece of the lay

There is no individual marker man for any unit.

Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.

Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut

fabric.

Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of

fabric

In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial

number.

SEWING SECTION Introduction :

Sewing section is the crowdest section in Garment. All day long there

machines are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the

cutting parts of different garment ir brought in sewing section to sew. First

of all machine is set out according to requirement. In this chapter I will try to

give some flow chart of the different garment item sewing along with the

machine lay out plan.

Sewing:

The process of joining fabric or seam is called Sewing.

Elements of Sewing:

Sewing Thread, Needle & Sewing Machine

List of machinery found in sewing lines:

1. Plain Machine (S/N)

2. Double Needle Machine (D/N)

3. Overlock Machine (O/L)

4. Interlock Machine (I/L)

5. Flat lock Machine (F/L)

6. Kanshai Machine

7. Feed of the Arm

8. Button Hole Machine

9. Button join Machine

10. Bartack Machine (B/T)

Thread Use In Different Machine:

Machine Type Thread Type

Plain/Auto Plain M/C 1 needle Thread 1 Bobbin Thread Double Needle M/c Two Needle Two bobbins Over Lock 2 Needle Thread 2 Looper Thread Cylinder Bed 3 Needle Thread 1 Spreader Thread 1 looper Thread Flat bed 3 Needle Thread 1 Spreader Thread 1 looper Thread

Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed:

Cylinder Bed Flat Bed

1. Hem can make Hem can not make 2. Piping mechanism is not available Piping mechanism is available 3. Top stitch can done Top stitch can not done.

Different Sewing Machine Parts:

Single Needle Sewing Machine: Plain Machine

Fig: Plain machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread up lever guide Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Hand lifter Needle clamp Needle

Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Reverse lever Bobbin winder Pulley Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Leg lifter Foot Safety guide Motor

Over Lock Sewing Machine:

Fig: Over Lock Machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Safety guide Motor

Cylinder Bed Machine:

Fig: Cylinder Bed Machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Safety guide Motor

Flat Bed Machine:

Fig: Flat Bed Machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand Thread Clamp Thread Retainer Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Eye protection glass Looper

Needle clamp Needle Needle plate Feed dog SPI adjustor Spreader Mechanism Oil sight window Pulley belt cover Piping Mechanism(Folder) Motor

Flow-Sequence of Sewing Section:

Cutting fabric load in sewing section

Line plan according to style or design

Marking

Matching according to bundle no.

Sewing according to Garments design or style

Quality inspection during sewing

Quality inspection after sewing

Excess Thread cutting

Remove dirt & dust from Garments surface

Quality Audit

Send to next process.

Fig : Sewing section

Properties of seam:

Properties of seam are assessed on the following aspects-

Appearance:

After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which

affects outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view

of stitches, seam pucker, or unsightly view.

Performance:

Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria-

Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly

less than the fabric strength.

Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or

greater than the fabric elasticity.

Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability

of the fabric. Especially during wear and washing, the seam should

not fail or damage due to frictional forces and tension.

Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail

due to simple reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the

security of the seam. If the seam fails due to normal reason the

situation might be undue.

Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any

irritation or problem to body and health as well.

Fig : Sewing section

Special property:

If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire

proof, chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this

apparel the seam should be produced in such away that

the seams have also such special property.

Sewing Defects:

Needle damage, Skip stitches, Thread Breakages, Broken Stitches Seam Grin Seam Puckering Pleated Seam Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch density Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitches

FINISHING SECTION Finishing Lay Out:

Garments wash

Loop cutting

Thread trimming

Alter checking

Stitch others

Button attach

Ironing (In side)

Inspection (inside & outside)

Batch label attach

Final ironing

Joker tag attach

Size tag attach

Waist belt attach

Hanger attach

Poly packing

Cartooning

Shipment

Trims:

Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There

are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection

of trims and its quality are very important for styling; otherwise the garment

may be rejected or returned by the customers.

Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items:

Zipper/Fastener:

Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal

Color : Tape color, Teeth color

Size : #3, #5, #8, etc.

Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm

End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E)

Slider : One way, Reversible.

Sewing Thread:

Shade, color fastness, etc.

Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain,

Abrasion Resistance, etc.

30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9 Ne, etc.

Labels:

Main label

Size label

Care label

Content

Price

Patch, etc.

Button:

Horn and

Metal buttons are very common in use.

ELASTIC:

Cotton

Polyester, etc.

Eyelet:

Antique

Matching, etc.

Velcro:

Hook and Pile

String/Cord:

Cotton

Polyester, etc.

Tags:

Price tags

Hang tags, etc.

Polybag:

Strength, Chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm; 1mm = 1000 micron).

Blister Bag:

0.05 mm in thickness;

Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag.

Carton:

3 ply

5 ply

7 ply Size (L, W, and H).

Sticker:

Hook and Pile.

Plastic Clip:

Tag pin:

Scotch Tape:

Hanger:

Gum Tape etc.

COMPLIANCE ISSUE

Compliance:

Compliance means comply something i.e. yield to the wishes another. The

main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labor rights and facilities

according to buyer code of conduct.

Different compliance issues which they are obeyed:

Admin & HR dept.:

Personnel policies:

o Recruitment policy o Leave and holiday policy

Attendance and leave register card:

o Their weekly working hour not more than 66 hours including overtime in a week.

o They have the approved manpower list. Health & hygiene:

First aid ensures. Medicine registers. Maternity and pregnancy register. Pure drinking water Towel for hand dry.

Safety:

Safety committee Fire fighting committee Rescue committee Broken needle register Needle detector Fire alarm & switch Evacuation plan

Welfare:

Welfare committee Day care centre Canteen facility

Salary and wages:

Fix wages in considering minimum wages which is declared by the government.

Salary and wages given before 7th day of month.

Physical security:

They have separate cargo entrance area (receiving and unloading)

from the front side.

They do not keep any partially filled/ completed cartons on the floor at

the end of any working day. They keep it to finished goods store.

Education and training program:

They arrange security training program on regular basis for all employee of

the factory.

Compliance item:

Some example of compliances item are given below:

First aid box

Water pot

Toilet

Wash basin

Complain box

Evacuation plan

Exhaust fan

Emergency exit/light/ light set

Smoke detector

Fire extinguisher

Hose cabinet

Manila rope

Gas musk

CONCLUSION

Technical education and its adoption in practical field we involved

inextricably, without the implementation of the knowledge gathered in

technical education its success is bound to suffer. Therefore, this one and

half long industrial attachment as a partial fulfillment of our B.Sc in Textile

Engineering course helped us to accomplish the gap between theoretical

and practical knowledge by providing an elementary idea about industrial

environment processing machines, tools and equipments, production

system and maintenance, administration and management system.

The completion of the two months Industrial Attachment at Sea Moss

Knitwear Ltd. we have got the impression that factory is one of the most

modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh. Though it

was established few years ago, it has earned ‘very good reputation’ for its

best performance over many other export oriented textile mills. We have

also understood that Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. cares a lot about there quality.

During our Training period we have rarely seen faulty dyeing. If there was

any problem it was quickly removed with the help of experienced and

skilled production manager. During this period we have never seen any

striping of color from fabric; though for this we couldn’t learn how stripping

is done but it we think it is good for industry. The quality of dyed fabric is

very good. In testing lab we have seen the most dyed batch has wash

fastness 4-5. After dyeing the strength was well over of buyer’s

requirement. Above all this quality was maintained with using least amount

of chemicals.

There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge

Some Suggestions:

- More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiency

will increase.

- The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The

maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action

(wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out

regularly.

- There should be a spinning project then Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. will not

have to buy yarn from outside hence a lot money will be saved.

- The job environment of production office should be much better.

- Merchandising section should be much responsible about the whole

order.

Limitations of the Report:

- It was limited time. In spite of willing to study more details it was not

possible to do so.

- Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were

not available.

- The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this

report, hence our effort spent on summarizing them.

Lastly:

I tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that

within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but

as a whole this industrial training was a satisfactory one and once again

wed would like to thank the authority of Sea Moss Knitwear Ltd. as well as

our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are fortunate

enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During

the training period we have received enough co-operation and association

from the authority and found all personnel. All stuffs and officers were very

sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.