Industrial Attachment of Beximco textiles limited (btl)

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INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTBeximco Textiles limited (BTL)

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Chapter I

Project Description

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BEXIMCO TEXTILES LTD (BTL) AT A GLANCE

Beximco Textiles limited (BTL)

1. Name of the project :Beximco Textiles limited (BKL.)2. Project proponent :Beximco group of companies3. Location :Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

About 25 kms north of Dhaka city and 10 kmsfrom Savar.

4 Address :

Factory & head Office:Beximco Industrial Park,Saraboo,Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

5. Board of directors :A.S.F. Rahman, Chairman& Managing Director.

Salman F Rahman, vice – Chairman.

7. Communication :The project is easily accessible by road.8. Product name :Woven yarn dyed ,solid dyed and shabrey , bleached

fabric.9. Product Mix :

A) Gray fabric:1. Solid dyed2. yarn dyed.

a. Stripe.b. Check.

3. Shambrey fabric.4. Canvas.

B) Design.a. In Tappet loom.

i. Plain.ii. Twill.

iii. Sateen.iv. Some combination weave which are posible in tappet.v. Oxford. (Warp rib and weft rib).

vi. Queen’s Oxford.vii. Matt.

b. In Dobby loom:i. Various types of weave.

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ii. Diamond.iii. Diaper.iv. Herring bone.v. Honey comb.

vi. The design which are possible in 16 heald frames.

10. Annual production capacity : 3,65,00,000 per year.11. Factory area :Approx. 30acres.12. Type of the factory :Horizontally integrated.13. No. of employees :Approx. 300.14. Project cost :Approx. 17000 million taka15. Different Departments :

a) Adminstration.b) Human Resource and Develoment

Dept.c) Weaving.d) Woven Dyeinge) Woven finishing.f) Spinning.g) Knitting Depth) Knit dyeing Dept.i) Yarn dyeing Dept.j) Woven Garments Dept.k) Knit Garments Dept.l) Denim weaving.m) Denim finishing.n) Garments washing plant.o) Planning Dept.p) Utility Dept.q) Research & development Dept.r) Product development.s) Design Studio.

Site Location:Location description: Beximco Industrial park is near about 1 kilometre from

Chakraborti Bus stop. Chakra borti bus stop is in the way of Dhaka Tangail High way.

There are two easy way to go from Dhaka.

1. Motijheel → Sat rasta → Mohakhali → Uttara→ Abdullahpur→ Ashulia

→ Bipile → DEPZ → Chakraborti → Beximco Industrial Park.

2. Motijheel → Farmgate→ Mirpur Road → Gabtoli → Savar → Nobinagar

→ Bipile → DEPZ → Chakraborti → Beximco Industrial Park.

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Location diagram is not to scale. It is only a scematic diagram.

DEPZ

DEPZBipileNobinagar

Chakraborti

BeximcoIndustrial

Park

Abdullahpur

Savar Ashulia

College ofTextile

Technology

National Assembly

Mirp

ur R

oad

Farmgate

J. U.

Asad gate

Mirpur

Gabtoli

Tongi

Uttara

New Air port

Old Air portPrimeMinister’sHouse

Dha

ka M

ymen

sing

Roa

d

Mohakhali

Sat Rasta

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Transport:For the Beximco employee there are 7 large bus to transport. Bus’s are Air

conditioned and comfortable.

These bus’s are up and down from beximco industrial park to Dhaka

metropolitan city to 7 Route.

Without these bus’s there are some micro bus’s to lift the Shift executives.

For the general people there are two bus service available:

1. Hanif Metro Service.

2. Super bus Service.

These bus’s are start from Motijheel to Nandan Park.

Cost of Transport:About 30 Taka per head from Motijheel.

HISTORY OF BEXIMCO GROUP:

1965-1975 Beximco is born.1965 New Dacca Industries Ltd

1973 Beximco UK branch.

1976-1989: Beximco diversifies

1978 Beximco foods Ltd.

1979 Beximco pharmaceuticals ltd.

1982 Shinepukur Jute Spinners Ltd.

1985 Beximco apparels Ltd.

1987 Recognised as export house for contribution to country’s export.

1990-1995: Beximco expands

1990 Padma Textile Mills Ltd.(plant -1)

1992 Beximco Synthetics Ltd.

1996-1999: Beximco preparing for the new millennium.

1996 Beximco Textiles Ltd (Phase 1).

Beximco Knitting Ltd.

Beximco Denims Ltd .

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1997 Padma Textiles Mills Ltd (Plant -2).

1998 Beximco Textiles Mills Ltd (Phase 2).

Beximco Fashions Ltd .

PhysicalInfrastructure: - Single storied building (only dye warehouse is doublestoried )

- Concrete structure (about 25 ft high)

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Chapter II

Manpower Management

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Oragan gram :

Man power in Different section of BTL (Weaving):

Section Man power

Winding 329

Warping 83

Sizing 50

Drawing, Denting 135

Weaving 269

Design cell 10

Label 30

Maintenance 50

Others 40

Utility 50

Total 1046

C. E. O.↓

Chairman (A. S. F. Rahman)↓

Vice Chairman (Salman F. Rahman)↓

C. O. O.↓

↓D.G.M

Weaving

↓D.G.M

Dye house

↓D.G.M

Yarn dyeing

↓D.G.Mknitting

↓D.G.M

spinning

↓D.G.M

Garments

WindingMr. Jamil

WarpingMr. Ahad.

SizingMr. Monir

Loom 1, 2Mr. Saleh

+Loom 3, 4Mr. kabir

Mechanical+ Label

Mr. Nazir

DrawingDenting

Mr. Aman

Design CellMr. Rana

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SHIFT CHANGE:There are three shifts per day in B.K.L. So each shift

contain eight hour.

Shift DurationA 06.00 AM – 02.00 PMB 02.00 PM – 10.00 PMC 10.00 PM – 06.00 AMGeneral shift 09.00 AM – 05.00 PM

General shift, which is applicable for some officers.

Function area:Setting the different parameters of machines, using

correct yarn for order, controlling machine stare, controlling processquality system.

Remarks:The organization and management system are good for

mill environment and as the job description is classified, so duties aredone honestly and sincerely.

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Chapter III

Machine Description

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Chapter VI

Raw Materials

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Main raw Materials are yarn.size materials such as starch anti bacterial agent.Yarn used mainly 100% cotton, PC, CVC, 100% Polyester, Lurax, lycra core spunyarn.Spinning section of Beximco supply maximum variety of yarn. Theyt can supply100% cotton, PC, CVC.Beximco synthetic supply 100% polyester.Lurax, lycra core spun yarn import from other countries of the world.Size material purchase by tender.

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Chapter V

Production planningSequences and Operation

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Process Flow:There are two ways Woven fabric produced:

1. Solid dyed.2. Yarn dyed.

Generally yarn dyed fabrics are costly item. Because dyed yarn are costlyand, In case of yarn dyed fabric Sectional warping is necessary which is alsocostly and time consuming process.

Solid dyed↓

Store↓

Direct Warping↓

Sizing↓

Drawing, Denting↓

Weaving

Yarn Dyed↓

Store↓

Soft Winding↓

Yarn dyeing↓

Hard winding↓

Sectional Warping↓

Sizing↓

Drawing, Denting↓

Weaving

Weaving

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When Order Comes to the Marketing Section, then they contact with theProduct development (in case of new product) or Design cell (in case of availableproduct) that, is it possible or not possible in beximco. They Send a ArticleRequest paper. After reaching the Article Request paper Design cell produceArticle Code and send mail to the planning and marketing section.

Planning print a Dispo paper and send to 11 sections with related production ofthat fabric.

Dispo Paper:Dispo Paper is a paper which contain All necessary information for theproduction of a specific item of fabric.

Dispo paper contains:------next page --------------------------------Fill up

Buyer Merchandiser Marketing

Design CellPlanning

1. Design Cell2. Yarn Requisition3. yarn store4. winding5. yarn dyeing6. warping7. Sizing8. Drawing, denting9. Weaving10. M.I.S.11. Finishing.

Send Dispo Paper

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Design Cell:

Design Cell is one of the most important department of BTL (weaving). When aorder comes to the marketing or merchandizing officer he/she send the fabric tothe design cell that is it possible or not possible in beximco. They send a Articlerequest paper. Design cell analyze the fabric design and test the feasibility ofproduciton and create a Article code and send this article code the marketing ormarchandizing officer and input data to the Data tex which is a software used inbeximco for all types of information by networking.

After getting Article code planning discuss with marketing officer aboutcosting. Then marketing officer send mail or discuss directly to the buyer aboutpricing of the product.

If buyer agree with the price then marketing officer send mail to thecentral planning section with Article code.

Planning take a print of dispo paper for the article code from the systemdata tex. After printing dispo paper they send it to the design cell to check orvarify. Design cell check and give drawing and denting plan and send it to theplanning section again.

Planning then send it to the various section where these informationrequired and at a time requisition all necessary raw materials or other materials.

Article Code:Article code is a gathering of All informations which are need to produce thatfabric in terms of code.Article code is form by three codes:

1. Fabric code. 7 digit.2. Pattern / variant. 6 digit.3. Finish type. 4 digit.

Example of Fabric Code:

Example of pattern / variant ( 7 digit):

C CD LK C A

CompositionCotton/ CVC/PC

EPI x PPIWarp count and weft count

WidthDesign

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Organ gram of Design cell:

Assistant Manager ( Md. Masud Akhter Rana)↓

Data Entry +Design Analyzer (2+6 person)

↓Peon (1 person)

Dispo paper goes to the following sections:1. Design cell.2. Store.3. Winding.4. yarn dyeing.5. warping.6. sizing.7. Drawing and denting.8. Loom.9. Finishing10. M.S.I.

Dispo paper contains following types of informations:

1. Fabric Specification.2. Yarn composition3. Finished type.4. Finished fabric’s EPI x PPI5. Finished fabric’s width.6. Required length.7. Reed count.8. Grey EPI and PPI.9. Greige width.10. Reed width.11. Reed EPI12. Required greige length.13. Required warp length.

T T D D 36 10

Tappet designTappet Loom

Direct WarpingDrawing

Cover factorCrimp %

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14. Ground Ends.15. Selvedge Ends.16. Cover Factor.17. Numerical Plan (Warp & Weft)18. Drawing & Denting Plan.

Typical Sample Analysis:

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Possible Ends per inch by using Available Reed in Inventory in Beximco bydenting 2,3 and 4 in a dent For yarn dyed fabric.

Finished Epi Reed Epi Reed count Denting Available no. Reed33.33 30 30 2 in dent 1

50 45 30 3 in dent 1

51.11 46 46 2 in dent 20

52.22 47 47 2 in dent 1

54.44 49 49 2 in dent 25

55.56 50 50 2 in dent 8

57.78 52 52 2 in dent 10

64.44 58 58 2 in dent 81

66.67 60 30 4 in dent 1

68.89 62 62 2 in dent 11

73.33 66 66 2 in dent 6

76.67 69 46 3 in dent 20

77.78 70 70 2 in dent 12

78.33 70.5 47 3 in dent 1

80 72 72 2 in dent 26

81.67 73.5 49 3 in dent 25

83.33 75 50 3 in dent 8

83.33 75 75 2 in dent 20

84.44 76 76 2 in dent 22

86.67 78 52 3 in dent 10

86.67 78 78 2 in dent 23

93.33 84 84 2 in dent 6

95.56 86 86 2 in dent 11

96.67 87 58 3 in dent 81

102.2 92 46 4 in dent 20

102.2 92 92 2 in dent 20

103.3 93 62 3 in dent 11

104.4 94 47 4 in dent 1

104.4 94 94 2 in dent 10

106.7 96 96 2 in dent 62

108.9 98 49 4 in dent 25

110 99 66 3 in dent 6

110 99 99 2 in dent 144

111.1 100 50 4 in dent 8

114.4 103 103 2 in dent 6

115.6 104 52 4 in dent 10

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117.8 106 106 2 in dent 73

120 108 72 3 in dent 26

124.4 112 112 2 in dent 10

125 112.5 75 3 in dent 20

126.7 114 76 3 in dent 22

128.9 116 58 4 in dent 81

128.9 116 116 2 in dent 16

130 117 78 3 in dent 23

134.4 121 121 2 in dent 50

137.8 124 62 4 in dent 11

140 126 84 3 in dent 6

143.3 129 86 3 in dent 11

143.3 129 129 2 in dent 40

146.7 132 66 4 in dent 6

153.3 138 92 3 in dent 20

155.6 140 70 4 in dent 12

156.7 141 94 3 in dent 10

160 144 72 4 in dent 26

160 144 96 3 in dent 62

165 148.5 99 3 in dent 144

166.7 150 75 4 in dent 20

168.9 152 76 4 in dent 22

171.7 154.5 103 3 in dent 6

173.3 156 78 4 in dent 23

176.7 159 106 3 in dent 73

186.7 168 84 4 in dent 6

186.7 168 112 3 in dent 10

191.1 172 86 4 in dent 11

193.3 174 116 3 in dent 16

201.7 181.5 121 3 in dent 50

204.4 184 92 4 in dent 20

208.9 188 94 4 in dent 10

213.3 192 96 4 in dent 62

215 193.5 129 3 in dent 40

220 198 99 4 in dent 144

228.9 206 103 4 in dent 6

235.6 212 106 4 in dent 73

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257.8 232 116 4 in dent 16

268.9 242 121 4 in dent 50

286.7 258 129 4 in dent 40

Proposed Process Allowances For the different process:

SectionYarn Dyeing

Warp% Weft%Section Cumulative Section Cumulative

Yarn Dyeing 2.00 23.32 2.00 26.59Winding 0.50 20.86 0.50 24.06Warping 3.00 20.25 23.44Sizing 0.50 16.64 23.44Weaving (Crimp) 8.00 16.06 13.5 23.44Greige (Reject) 1.00 6.78 1.00Process Loss 1.50 5.71 1.50 5.71Shrinkage 2.00 4.12 2.00 4.12Inspection (Rejection 2.00 2.04 2.00 2.04

Total 23.32% 26.59%

There are major departments are :1. Winding.2. Warping.3. Sizing.

SectionYarn Dyeing(pc/cvc)

Warp% Weft%Section Cumulative Section Cumulative

Yarn Dyeing 2.50 24.59 2.50 27.24Winding 1.00 21.48 1.00 24.06Warping 3.50 20.26 - 22.81Sizing 0.50 16.05 - 22.81Weaving (Crimp) 8.00 15.47 13.50 22.81Greige (Reject) 1.00 6.23 1.00 6.23Process Loss 1.50 5.17 1.50 5.17Shrinkage 1.5 3.59 1.50 3.59Inspection (Rejection 2.00 2.04 2.00 2.04

Total 24.59% 27.24%

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4. Drawing, Denting.5. Weaving.6. Inspection.

These departments are described below:

Winding Section

Definition: In fabric manufacturing (weaving) process this is the first stage

where rewinding of supplied yarn is done on to a desired package suitable for

use in the next process.

Organogram:

The organogram of this section is given below:

Section in charge

Assist Manager [Jamilur Rahman (Jamil) ]

↓

Quality Control Officer

↓

Supervising Officer

↓

Senior Operator

↓

Operator

↓

Helper

↓

25

Cleaner

Skill Level Man power

Assist Manager 1

Quality Control Officer 3

Super vising Officer 27

Senior Operator.259

Operator

Helper 27

Cleaner. 12

Total 329

Winding Section:

Types of Winding:

1. Soft Winding.

2. Hard widing.

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Soft Winding: Where the grey yarn is wound on to special “Dye Spring” and

the package (Spool) is made softer and bulkier to make it suitable for dye

liquour penetration in the (package) dyeing machine.

Hard Winding: Where the grey yarn dyeing machine is converted from

spool to paper cone, to make the yarn easily be fed to the sectional warping

machine.

Branch of Winding Section:

1. Soft Winding.

2. Hard Winding.

3. Left Over Cone Winding.

4. Sewing Thread Winding.

M/c used for Soft winding:

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Name of the machine Machine no.

1. FADIS Winder 1

2. RJK Winder. 4

3. HARISH Winder. 3

4. METTLER Winder. 2

FADIS is 10 times more expensive m/c than RJK . In this m/c every drum

is controlled by individual motor. So, if the yarn breaks that drum will be

stopped . but in RJK and HARRIS there is a common motor. Traversing motion

is controlled by grooved drum. The drum width is equal to package width. If we

want to change the package width then we have to change the drum width. But

in FADIS Traversing motion is controlled by traversing rod. So, package width

can be changed easily. During Soft winding Special type of package is used,

which is called spring type package.

This package is made of metal and has special type of structure for yarn

dying. This structure protects any kinds of deformation during yarn dying.

After dyeing the package is checked by quality assurance dept. If every thing is

OK then it goes to the winding sec. Otherwise it will be rejected. During winding

we can not wound hard package in soft winding m/c. because, hard package in

soft winding m/c because, hard package has a conical shape and soft package

forms a parallel package. This package is of two types.

1. Full cone.

2. Dia cone.

If full cone, there are about 5000 m yarn in a cone. But in dia yarn is consumed

according to the requirements. For dia every package should be checked and

measured for completion of winding. Generally 2 workers are required for every

head and 4 workers needs for every m/c.

Details information of winding machineries:

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M/c Name : FADIS Winder.

Manufacturer : FADIS Italy.

Manuf. Year : 1995

M.P.M. : 650

No. of Head : 2

No. of Drum /head : 42

Traversing system : By Traverse guide.

Motor : Individual

Stop motion : Mechanical

No. of m/c : 1

Production per head : 748.8 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

Production per m/c : 62899.2 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

If all head active

M/c Name : HARRISH Winder.

Manufacturer : HARRISH Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat,

India.

Manuf. Year : 1998

R.P.M. of Motor : 1430

M.P.M. : 650

No. of Head : 2


Traversing system : Grooved drum

Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 3


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Production per m/c : 89856 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

M/c Name : RJK Winder.

Manufacturer : Kinarivala RJK Industries, Ahmadabad, India.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. : 750

No. of Head : 2



Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 4

Production per head : 864 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]


M/c Name : METTLER

Manufacturer : FR Mettler’s Sons Ltd. Switzerland.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. :

No. of Head : 2



Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 4

Production per head : km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

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Production per m/c : km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

Speciality : Lycra winding

M/c used for Hard winding:


1. Textool winder. 6

2. KAMITSU 2

3. Harrish 1

Details information of Hard winding machineries:

M/c Name : Textool Winder.

Manufacturer : Textool Company Ltd. Coimbatore, India.

Manuf. Year : 1996

M.P.M. : 650

No. of Head : 2


Traversing system : By Grooved drum

Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 6



If all head active

M/c Name : KAMITSU Winder.

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Manufacturer : Harrish Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat, India.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. :

No. of Head : 1



Motor : Individual


No. of m/c : 1


Production per m/c : km /day [Assuming 80%

efficiency]

M/c Name : Harrish Winder.

Manufacturer : Harrish Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat, India.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. : 650

No. of Head : 2



Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 1



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Yarn path tensioner and guide:

Grooved drum:

Key Accessories:

Cone Diameter gauge.

Materials or Chemicals used:

Parafin wax is rarely used in this process.

Machine speed:

650 m /min.

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Operation Procedure:

Soft Winding:

Flow Chart:

DISPO

↓

Store Requisition.

↓

Receive the yarn.

↓

Setting & Running.

↓

Winding

↓

Checking. (Dia)

↓

Stop Winding.

↓

Quality assurance.

↓

Root card making.

↓

Delivery for dyeing.

Dispo:

Dispo is a planning sheet that comes from Design cell, it mention type of

yarn, count, amount, color, shed and other information required from

yarn preparation to finished fabric state.

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Requisition:

According to Dispo yarn preparatory section wanted sheet send to general

ware house (store) for giving yarn.

Receiving:

When yarn come from the store winding department receive yarn in

pounds by checking the required quality.

Checking:

After a certain time the worker checks the package diameter by diameter

gauge, so that required amount of yarn is wound on the package. When

the desired amount is wound the worker stops the winding.

Quality Assurance:

The Quality assurance officer checks the desired softness of package and

fault. If it is OK then the package is poly packed to keep it from dust.

Root card:

The yarn preparatory section Fill – up a sheet with the whole information

about preparatory yarn and with yarn send to the yarn dyeing section.

After dyeing receiving Root card:

After dyeing related person of preparatory section receive the yarn by

checking all mentioning quality at root card the yarn again to the sub store

section.

Procedure:

1. Marketing order is sent to weaving department through planning cell.

2. Design cell plan the amount of yarn, color and some other important

parameters.

3. Design cell prepare a dispo paper and sent to related 11 departments.

4. Winding department sent requisition to Store section according to dispo

requirement.

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5. Store department write down in register book the amount of yarn.

6. Worker of winding department open/ break the cartoon and put it under

the soft winding machine.

7. Then set dye spring on holder and manually wind some turn for the

better building the package.

8. After the required shape of spool has been achieved, the operator

manually put the spool on the salve.

9. Now the helper collects the package and put them in a trolley and sent to

the yarn dyeing section. Storage area on the floor and cover with cloth

giving lot no. , etc. in a board.

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Fig: Batch

Hard Winding:

The Scoured, bleached or dyed yarn transfer from dye spring to paper cone

where comparatively high tension according to desired size.

There are two types of hard winding.

1. From spring package: After yarn dyeing.

2. From hard package: After warping extra yarn left in the packages are re wind

in the hard package.

Flow Chart:

Root Card

↓

Checking

↓

Receiving

↓

Prepare batch card

↓

Start hard winding

↓

Measuring weight

Root card: The document sheet of material flow comes to the hard winding

section to the related person.

Checking: Check the mentioned quality of yarn.

Receiving: If all qualities are OK then yarn is received by the winding section.

Otherwise back to the dyeing sec.

Prepare batch card:

37

Procedure:

1. Dyed soft spools are received from dyeing section with specification, (Lot

number, order number, counts, shade etc.)

2. Q.C. Officer check the shade of yarn and other necessary parameters.

3. Amount of yarn received from the dyeing department is written in the

register book.

4. Supervisor checks the actual order number and order for preparations of

warping batch.

5. Yarn of same color & count are kept in a cartoon.

6. After preparation for warping batch, excess yarn is rewound to produce

weft package.

Left Over cone winding Section:

The Cone Containing excess yarn after warping are sent in the left over section.

Here rewinding is done from several left over cone. These cone are used as weft

yarn. As a result the wastage of costly yarn is minimized.

Machine Available for this section:

BEXIMCO TEXTILES LTD.

Order No:

Customer:

Batch No:

Count:

Shade:

Pcs & Qty:

Recones:

Remarks:

Date:

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1. Textool winder 4

2. METTLER 1

3. CIMMCO 1

Details of those m/c:

M/c Name : Textool Winder.

Manufacturer : Textool Company Ltd. Coimbatore, India.

Manuf. Year : 1996

M.P.M. : 650

No. of Head : 2


Traversing system : By Grooved drum

No. of Traverse : ½

Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 4



If all head active

M/c Name : METTLER

Manufacturer : FR Mettler’s Sons Ltd. Switzerland.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. :

No. of Head : 2


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No. of traverse : 2/3

Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 1



Speciality : Lycra

M/c Name : CIMMCO

Manufacturer : CIMMCO Ltd.

Manuf. Year : 1998


M.P.M. :

No. of Head : 2



No. of Traverse :

Motor : Common


No. of m/c : 1



Speciality : Lycra

Note: This left over cone winding section also used for normal hard cone

winding when necessary.

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Sewing thread cone winding Section:

Here the the dyed ply yarn is wound in to a small plastic cone. These cones are

supplied from different garments factory of BEXICO group. Here lubrication is

done during winding. Each cone contain 2000 meter yarn.

Machine available for this section:


1. CHENGFENG 10

M/c Name : CL – PAGODA Thread winding machine

Manufacturer : CHENGFENG Ltd.

Origing : China

Driving system : Direct Driving

No. of Motor/mc 6

No. of spindle/ motor : 2

R.P.M. of Motor :

M.P.M. :

Traversing system : Traversing rod

No. of Traverse :

Motor : Individual

Stop motion :

No. of m/c : 10



Faults in winding section:

41

Faults Causes

1. Excessive Hard package Excess tension

2. Excessive Loose package Less tension

3. Ring Faulty drum

4. Stitching Vibration of Package

5. Ribbon Ribbon breaker problem.

6. Bulging Improper alignment of Package

7. Entanglement Jerking package

8. Bunch Improper store and handling

9. Cut cone Package drop

10. Reverse winding Low pressure

Swing Thread winding Machine:

Types of Maintenance:

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1. Schedule maintenance

2. Break down maintenance.

Spare item types:

1. Readymade / purchase:

2. Fabrication tool in work shop / other side

3. Import item.

Quality Control in winding Section:

The following quality is maintained in preparatory stage.

Shade matching:

The dyed yarn compared with lab drip sample or swatch card.

Level Checking:

During package dyeing dyes chemical enter in to package by pressure. So there

is a possibility to differ level in inner and outer side. It is checked and allow up

to (5 -6)%

Fastness:

Water and color fastness is checked.

Strength:

CSP, tenacity, CV% of tenacity, elongation are tested.

Package hardness:

Soft wound package is checked by hand if it is hard improper dyeing will occur,

the hard wound package also checked if it is less hard or too hard it will create

problem in subsequent process.

Material Handling Equipment For Winding Section:

1. Creel.

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2. Trolley.

1. Creel:

2. Trolley.

Trolley:

44

Weft yarn package traveller:

45

Warping:

46

Operational Staff:

Section in – Charge

Senior Executive

(Abdul Ahad)

↓

Quality Control Officer

↓

Supervising officer

↓

Senior Operator

↓

Creel man

↓

Helper

Direct Warping

Process Flow:

Dispo

↓

Yarn from store

↓

Creeling

↓

Warping

High Speed Warping m/c Setting:

Set up parameters Range Set value

Cone no. of Creel 400-600 As required

47

Warping Speed 1-1200 m/min

Warping length 1-999999 m

Shift selection 1-5 3

Beaming drum pressure 1-11 mm scale 5 mm scale

Stop drop wire 1, 2, 3. 1 higher

Tensioner A, B, C. C higher

Depth of penetration 1-40 mm As required

Beam barrel dia 315 mm Fixed

Beam flange dia. 987 mm Fixed

Beam width 1800 mm As required

Depth of travel must be same in both the sizes of creel. Yarn ;tension can be

increased or decreased by changing depth of travel. Higher the setting values

higher the tension applied, but high tension may be needed fore lower bearing

speed, lower end breaks in comb, lower clinging ends.

# The sequences of operation of the pretension is controlled through the

following 2 programs

1. program A = Ease program ( For trouble free program)

2. Program B = Anti snarl program ( For lively, high twist or OE yarn.

# Pressure setting of stop motion & tensioner: (Off Creel)

Setting is adjustable by rotary button, which activate stop motion drop wire &

pressure.

Stop motion Tension Setting range Yarn Count (Ne)

3 C Coarse 4-30S

2 B` Medium 4-60S

1 A Fine 15-120s

48

Operation Procedure Direct Warping:

1. As per production program given by assistant manager, preparation

through the yarn warp record register, the supervising officer collects

griege yarn from store as per required count, lot number and quantity.

2. The machine operates and helpers open / break the yarn cartoon and

place the cones in the creel head as per program and draw the head end

of the cone through pretension rods, feeler guides, yarn guides and then

through expanded comb of beaming unit.

3. The basic creel data setting and machine data setting are done according

to the requirement as per m/c manufacturer operating instruction.

4. An empty beam is set in between driving clutch and engaged by means of

electric switch.

5. All the ends from the creel is wrapped around the beam manually one

round.

6. The press roller is moved towards the beam by means of electric switch.

7. The m/c is then run slowly and checked for yarn alignment with beam

flange on both sides. To ensure alignment the expanded comb may be

moved either to the right or left as required by switch.

8. Thus the m/c is ready and the operational switch is to be turned on.

9. As the present length is achieved the m/c will stop automatically. The

beam is doffed by switch and another beam is mounted.

10. In this way a set of beams are made to feed the subsequent sizing process.

11. Production is recorded in the yarn wrap record register; each beam is set

with warping data sticker for identification in the next process.

Sectional Warping

49

Process Flow:

Dispo

Yarn from store

Creeling

(According to warp plan)

Machine setup

Section wise warping

Beaming

Warp width:

Total Ends Warp Width

Below 7200 1800 mm

7200 2000 mm

Above 7200 2100 mm

Control Data Parameter Evaluation:

Feed- 1 =widthWarpTotalDensity

TotalDecitex 0.5Ends

Feed 2= Measured feed X 0.85 ( For Cotton)

= Measured feed X 0.95 (For Synthetic)

Feed -1= Drum Movement with revolution per minute.

Feed -2= Actual movement of Drum.

Measured feed=> It find out the variation between Feed -1 to Feed -2 Variation

+/- 15%

Piece length= Machine stop before wound 10 -15 meter of required length.

50

Head stock of sectional warping machine:

Causes of yarn breakage in warping:

1. Weak yarn.

2. Sloughing off.

3. Over lapping.

4. Knots/ bad splice.

Fig: Sectional Warping m/c.

51

5. Slubs.

6. Loose yarn.

7. Pig tail.

8. Cut yarn.

9. Bad tip cone.

10. Short cone.

Maintenance of Warping machinery:

Problem 1: V – reed not up and down.

Result: Line mark on Beam, rough surface.

Cause: Wearing gear.

Solve: Change the gear.

Problem 2: Oil drop from the machine.

Result: Make the floor dirty.

Cause: Oil break leakage.

Change all O–ring that will check the leaking.

Problem 3: Warping drum break does not work properly.

Result: Excessive hard beam.

Cause: Rust on the brake plate.

Solve: Clean the rust.

Problem 4: Electrical problem.

Solve: Repair the problem.

Creel:

52

Creel Diagram:

53

Sectional Warping tapered drum:

54

Drawing, Denting Section:

Process definition:

After a sized beam or weaver’s beam is made, it is time to mount this beam over

the loom. There are two methods used to prepare this beam for mounting on a

loom.

1. Warp tying or knotting (Quick style) change process.

2. Reaching – in /Drawing – in and beam gaiting.

Warp tying:

This method is limited to use where and exactly same article or quality of fabric

is to be made that is already running in the loom. The following points are

considered-

1. The total number of warp ends should be the same as that of running.

2. The count of yarn and weave design should be same.

Before tying a new beam with an older one, the new beam is to undergo a

process called leasing, whereby the adjacent yarns are kept separated by

placing a yarn in between them. This is very essential in case of tying a yarn

dyed beam; otherwise the warp pattern scheme will be disturbed and lost.

For monocular beam (solid dyed beam), tying is performed without leasing.

Drawing – in:

55

The method of mounting weaver’s beam on to the loom, which is adopted for

the same style of working of adjacent warp yarns or yarn interlacement,

compared to that of running in looms.

In this method warp yarns are separated individually as per count or color

pattern from the adjacent yarn and hooked to the access of drawer’s hook called

reaching – in.

The yarn as it comes to “reach” or drawer’s hook is then drawn through dropper

(or drop wire) and then passed through the split of the reed dent called denting.

Operation procedure:

Warp tying:

1. Assistant weaving manager monitor the following on a daily basis:

Every day beam production record and the style of fabric to be made

from these beams.

Check the number of looms running out of beams at every day and check

that loom specification relating to designing scope, i.e. – number of heald

frames, reed count and weft insertion capacity etc. Make a list of tying in

accordance with the marketing priority and availability of looms & that

are running out of beam.

2. According to that plan, knotting – in – charge & Drawing – in – charge

jointly arrange leasing of beams, the respective beams being identified

from the sizing data sticker.

3. As leasing is completed the beam is transported to a specific loom and

mounted on loom beam bracket. The tying frame is set on proper

position.

56

4. The ends of old beam and the ends of the new beam are accurately

brushed and gripped by the frame sothat older and newer ends, make

and upper & lower set of yarn placed in proper tension.

5. The warp tying head is mounted over the tying frame. In case of

STAUBLI machine, number of knots per repeat of color pattern is entered

in to machine.

6. Then the machine is started. After the programmed number of knots per

color is reached, knotting will stop. Operator will check the correctness of

the knot and start again by switch.

7. Thus knotting will be completed up to the end of set, tying up per set of

older yarn with lower set of new warp.

8. As knotting is completed, the knotting operator make a quality card

mentioning customer name, work number, beam number beam length,

knotting operator’s name and date and time of knotting.

9. The sizing date sticker is set over the quality (of doffing) card, and the

card is set over the loom.

10. The knotting operator also makes a work record in his register book.

11. As knotting is completed, tying head and frame are removed, the old

piece odd knotted yarn is pulled through the machine, i.e. through heald

wire and reeds and thus new warp set is allowed to pass and made ready

to run.

Drawing – in and reaching – in:

1. The customers fabric swatch is sent to the weaving section, generally after

warping is done, either by enclosed to the order sheet to form or

57

separately. Assistant manager (weaving) then analyzes the swatch for

reproduction. In this stage the determines –

a. The design of sample i.e. whether dobby or tappet or combination

of two.

b. The drawing – in, denting and lifting or tappet/ cam setting plan.

c. The required number of heald frame and reed count, draw width

etc.

2. Then whenever the sized beam is ready, the worked out drawing – in

plan, reed count etc. against an order number is given to the drawing – in

– charge for production. Drawing – in – charge for production. Drawing –

in – charge makes a work program considering the following:

a. The availability of the run out loom for beam.

b. The availability or required number of reed count.

3. Drawing – in – charge and senior drawer find out the desired sized beam

number from the sizing production record, check against the specific

work order number and from transport these to the drawing – in – section

by trolley and start working there.

4. According to the work order number each design/ drawing – in plan is

recorded in the register book, the produced sample being attached

thereafter.

5. After drawing – in/ denting is completed each beam is set with a quality/

doffing card, the sizing data sticker is being attached on the card. On the

quality card the following information are written –

a. Customer name

b. Work order number.

c. Beam number.

d. Beam length.

58

e. Loom number where the beam is to be set.

6. During deciding the loom number the drawing – in – charge takes into

consideration designing scope and color insertion scope of the respective

loom.

7. Finally beam gaiters carry this beam along with dropper, healds and reed

with trolley onto the specified loom and mount.

8. They will pull the new yarn from the beam and set in the loom with

dropper, healds and reed properly positioned and tie the new yarn with

the old piece of cloth wrapped around the surface roller with a number of

small knots.

Drawing Denting frame: Where the drawing, denting and pinning are done

of warp yarn. Drawing and pinning are done by the drawing hook and denting

is done by the denting plate which is called “patti” by the worker.

yarn path of a Warp beem in a drawing, denting frame:

59

Equipment used in Drawing denting and pinning Section:

Droper barHeald shaft

Reed

Sized beem

60

Denting plate (Patti):

Drawing Hook:

Drop Wire:

Material Handling Equipments used in Beximco:

Beam Carear:

61

62

WEAVING SECTION

Process Definition:

The act of inter lacing Warp yarn(of a beam) with the inserted weft yarn in a

definite order to form a fabric suitable for use as a dress material, domestic or

industrial purpose is called weaving. The machine used for this purpose is called

loom.

Weaving Floor:

Process equipment:

Air jet loom

Loom section – 1

63

Total no of loom - 72

No of Dobby loom -16 (16 heald frame)

No of Tappet loom - 56 (8 heald frame)

Loom with 6 EDP - 3

Loom with 2 EDP - 69

Loom section – 2

Total no of loom - 72

No of Dobby loom - 16 (16 heald frame)



Loom with 4 EDP -30


Loom section – 3 & 4

Total no of loom –-155

No of Dobby loom - 4 (16 heald frame)

No of Tappet (Seer sucker) loom - 56 (8 heald frame)


Positive shedding Tappet loom - 1

Rapier loom (somet) - 6



Loom with 2 EDP – 101

Manufacture of Air jet loom:

TOYOTA automatic loom works Ltd.

Marubeni Corporation.

64

Textile Machinery Department

Tokyo, Japan

EQUIPMENTS OF LOOM SECTION

The machine used for the purpose of weaving can be categorized as follows:

Model, make

TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM

JAPAN

Shedding device Weft

Insertion

RPM No. of

looms

JA 2S 190 TN-MF-600T Negative Cam

shedding

02 950 82

JA 4S 190 TN-MF-600T Do 04 775 30

TYPE 2580 DOBBY

MODEL

JA 2S 190 DE-MF-610T

Electronic

Dobby

02 750 16

TYPE 2580 DOBBY

MODEL


Do 06 725 16

TYPE 2580 DOBBY

MODEL


Do 04 675 4

JA 4S 190 TN-MF-610T Negative Cam

shedding

04 775 98

JA 6S 190 TN-MF-610T Do 06 725 36

JA 2S 190 TN-MF-610T Twin Beam

(Seer sucker)

and Negative

04 650 10

65

Cam

shedding

JA 2S 190 TP-MF-610T Denim 02 1000 1

Total loom: 293

KEY ACCESSORIES:

Weaver’s hook; pick counting glass, measuring tape.

66

SPECIFICATIONS OF AIR JET LOOM:

GENERAL SPECIFICATION

Motor R.P.M : 1410

M/C speed : 625 PPM

Motor pulley dia : 100mm

M/C pulley dia : 225mm

Reed : Profiled reed

Shedding : Cam, Electric Dobby

Take up motion : 7 wheel (mechanical)

Let off motion : Electronic

Warp stop : Electrical

Weft stop : Electronic

HEALD SHAFT SPECIFICATION

Brand Name : New light

67

Manufacturer : Nankai industrial Co. Ltd.

Origin : Japan

PHOTO ELECTRIC SENSOR

Model : CY-21P-SK

Manufacturer : Sunx Ltd.

Origin : Taiwan

LENO BOBBIN WINDER

Brand Name : Precision spooler

Model : PS

Manufacturer : Sankin engineering Co. Ltd.

Origin : Japan

SIGNAL LAMP

Manufacturer : Hayashi feeler Co. Ltd.

Origin : Japan

CABLE

Manufacturer : Mitsubishi Cable Industries Ltd.

Origin : Japan

REED SPECIFICATION

68

Brand Name : (i) RTOS (ii) Setia kiji reed

Origin : Japan

Type : Profile reed

Reed Count : 129, 121, 116, 106, 99, 92, 88/2,

74/4, 72/4 etc.

Reed Width 172.50cm

WARP BEEM CARRIER

Brand Name : TODO

Model : S-1500

Manker : Marubeni Corp

Origin : Japan

OVER ALL CLEANER

Brand Name : LUWA

Type : Suction

LOOM MOTOR SPECIFICATION (3 Phase Inductor Motor)

R.P.M : 1410

Maker : Meidensha Corp

H.P : 3KW

69

SIGNAL LAMP:

COLOR INDICATION

Red : Warp breakage

Green : Weft breakage

White : Loom stop

Yellow : Selvedge leno bobbin breakage

LENO SETTING:

Right side : 10°

Left side : 280°

PRODUCTION PROCEDURE:

Operation stuff:

Assistant Manager – section in charge

Production officer – shift in charge

Loom Technicians – shift wise running loom checking/ tuning/ setting &

gauging

Senior loom operator – as a line jobber, for production & Q.C.

Loom Operator

Helpers & movers – for supplying yarn and yarn cartoons

Casual worker – For keeping the machine & section clean

MACHINE SETUP:

70

Model, make Weft insertion capacity RPM

TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM,

JAPAN JAT 600, RS –

190cm

2 Up to 720

Do 4 Up to 720

Do 2 Up to 620

Do 6 Up to 620

TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM,

JAPAN JAT 610, RS –

190cm

4 Up to 620

Do 4 Up to 720

Do 6 Up to 720

Do 4 Up to 720

JA 2S 190 TP-MF- 610T 2 Up to 1000

FULL – LENO SELVEDGE DEVICE:

MECHANISM:

71

This device binds two leno yarns with every weft yarn at each side of the fabric

to produce a firm selvedge construction that well enough to become loose if weft

yarns are cut.

Different parts of Air Jet loom:

1. EDP(Electronic Drum Prewinder).

2. Tappet(Cam).

3. Lever and Puller.

4. Reed.

5. Dobby.

6. Easing roller.

7. Back rest.

8. Take up roller.

9. Cloth roller.

10. Weft Filler.

11. Dummy selvedge stop.

12. Weft cutter.

13. Drop wire and bar.

14. Leno selvedge attachment.

15. Main nozzle.

16. Sub nozzle.

17. Tample.

18. Tapo system.

19. Dummy selvedge system.

20. Monitor and Mother board

21. Pressure control Switch.

22. Grease tank.

Adjustment of setting:

Cutter to reed distance: 1mm

72

Tample to reed: 3mm

EDP pin to bend: 0.5mm.

Sub nozzle to sub nozzle: 88mm.

Two pick gear: 0.23mm

Band in EDP setting:

The band are adjustable they can move for up to down along the scale to wards

centre. For long weft yarn more dia use and for short weft yarn smaller dia is

used.

Weft inserting adjustment:

40 × 80/2

Construction: -------------------

120 × 62

No of EDP used- 1

EDP pin-

Opening angle - 85°

Closing angle - 125°

20 × 30

Construction: -------------------

130 × 70

No of EDP used- 1

EDP pin-

Opening angle - 110°

Closing angle - 51°

73

Easing roller Setting:

For different structure

Plain: +7

Plain + Twill: +5

Stripe design: +1

Long Float: +2

Combined: +5

Lower count plain: +3

Shed Size:

Plain:

Shed angle: 30°

Shed depth: 3 – 3.5cm

Plain + Shateen:

Shed angle: 20°

Shed depth: 2.5cm

Twill:

Shed angle: 25°

Shed depth: 3.5cm

Tappet Box and Dobby box:

74

Weft sensors:

Driving Mechanism of Tappet:

75

Shedding Mechanism of Tappet:

Cam box

By timing belt

76

Available tappet in Beximco:

4 up 1 Down

2 down 2 up 1 down 1 up

2 up 1down 2 up1 down

77

1 up 2down 1 up2 down

1 Up 4 Down

3 Up 1 Down

78

2 Up 2 Down

Shedding mechanism of Dobby:

Take up Mechanism:

79

Take up Mechanism of Tappet and Dobby loom:

Main shaft

Take Up Roller

80

Air Supply for the loom: Fresh air supply to the loom from the compressor. After

that there is a air filter with every separate loom ensure pure and dust free air.

Air supply to the following sections of loom:

1. Tendem nozzle / Main nozzle.

2. Sub nozzle / Relay nozzle.

3. Weft cutter.

4. E.D.P.

Some other important equipments:

Take up roller:

81

Beam lifter to the Seer sucker loom:

Dummy selvedge waste box:

Warp addition device / Dummy selvedge’s yarn:

82

Grid bar:

Air Suction:

Oil Pump:

E.D.P:

83

Auto Knotter:

84

Frequency Inverter:

85

Grey fabric fault:

1. Starting mark

2. Miss pick

3. Double pick

4. Loose yarn

5. Slubs

6. Yarn contamination

7. Defective selvedge

8. Hole / tear

9. Oil spot

10. Design fault

11. Shading

12. Size stained

13. Mending

14. Float / Zala

Maintenance:

Guideline for lubricating different parts of loom:

Lubricating points Interval Methods

Tappet cam shedding

motion

Jack lever shaft

Tappet box

12 hrs

yearly

Automatic

Manually with oiler

Let-off motion

Easing bearing (RH/LH)

Warp beam holder and

12 hrs Manually with grease

gun

86

clamp (RH/LH)

Warp beam gear

Let off drive box

at warp beam

change Manually with brush

Take up motion

Take up gears

Bevel wheel

Worm wheel shaft

Cloth roller shaft

12 hrs

12 hrs

at beam change

at beam change

Automatic

Automatic

Manually with

brush

Beating motion

Rocking metal

Housing

12 hrs

Automatic

Leno selvedge forming

device

Leno selvedge case

Leno selvedge drive gear

Leno shaft drive bracket

12 hrs

12 hrs

at beam change

Automatic

Automatic

Manually with oiler

Gearing box

Rotary encoder

Oil bath

Yearly

Yearly

Manually with brush

Manually with oiler

Dobby shedding motion

Dobby shedding box Yearly Manually with oiler

1. Before lubrication make sure that no air is entrapped inside grease gun,

periodically check the feeding amount of grease.

2. Before lubrication check that grease nipple of each lubrication point is not

damaged or broken.

3. Never mix different brands of grease or oil.

4. After oil changing check the oil level monthly and if is low add oil.

87

Method of lubrication:

1. Electric centralized grease lubrication – automatic electric centralized

grease lubricator consists of a pump, motor and tank. The lubrication

interval can be set from the function panel and generally is set to 12 hours

for running up to 2 to 3 weeks after loading a warp beam. After that

interval should be every 24 hours.

2. Manual lubrication.

Parts lubrication:

1. Plunger pump

2. Electric motor

3. Tank

4. Oil drainer

5. Grease gun

6. Oiler

7. Oil brush

Guide line for changing oil of the cam box:

1. Put an oil receiver under cam box take out plug and drain the oil.

2. Wipeout oil from the screw hole in the cam box and clean the cam box.

3. Put back the plug into the screw hole.

4. With machine in halt apply lubricant on the lubrication hole until oil

surface reaches above the centre of the oil level gauge.

Guide line for let-off oil changing:

1. Insert oil drainer into drain port to drain the let-off drive box oil.

2. Remove the white rubber plug for air vent.

88

3. Supply lubrication from the lubrication port with oiler until top of the oil

surface reaches about the middle of the level gauge.

4. Set white rubber plug on the air vent.

Guide line for changing grease distributor:

1. Disconnect the grease pipes from the distributor

2. Open the valve from the junction

3. Install new one and tight the valve on the junction

89

Hand Loom Section

In Beximco Textile Ltd there is a hand loom section. There are several

hand loom section with combined section, such as treadle, treadle nad dobby,

treadle and jacquard. There is also hank winding frame, sample high speed

warping machine, sectional warping machine also.

When Beximco gets a new order without any swatch, then a cad is prepared and

sends it to the Hand loom section. There a small size of sample is prepared. If the

sample is prepared successfully according to specification, then the planning

department took necessary step for bulk production.

90

Label Weaving Section

In Beximco Textile Ltd there is a label weaving section. This section is equipped

with modern electronic jacquard weaving machine. Here various woven label

which are used in garments are product. These labels are supplied in various

garments industry of Beximco group.

Label weaving floor:

Process equipment:

1. Needle loom with electronic jacquard shedding mechanism

- 5 head

- 8 head

- 12 head

91

2. Rapier loom with electronic jacquard shedding mechanism

- Electronic cutter can easily adjust for different width

label production

- Each contain 8 EDP

(No of machine - 3)

Needle weft insertion:

92

Take up:

Weft insertion:

93

Control panel:

Cutting and Folding:

94

There is Three types of folding:

1. Centre fold

2. Side fold.

3. Butterfly fold.

Centre fold

95

Side fold

Butterfly fold

96

Chapter XI

Marketing Activities

97

LIST OF BUYER

Customer Country

PVH(Phillip Van Husen)

(CK, Arrow, KC)

America

JC Penny America

Zara Spain

H & M(Hensne & Mauritz) England

Haddad America

C & A France

Carrefour Europe

Henbury Europe

Marks & Spencer England

Perry Ellis America

98

Chapter II

Quality Assurance System

Executive loom:

Four persons can do the job-

1. first meter checker

2. loom checker

3. loom checker

4. loom checker(reliever)

Grease inspection:

Two persons can do the job-

1. loom checker

2. grease inspection checker

First meter checking procedure:

Approved sheet by executive

Checking point:

For solid dyed:

1. construction

2. width(standard+/- 1”)

3. weave design as std

4. selvedge

5. reed number

6. denting order

99

7. design/color/pattern

For yarn dyed:

1. construction

2. width(standard+/- 1”)

3. weave design as std

4. selvedge

5. reed number

6. denting order

7. design/color/pattern

All check points are checked by first meter checker and executive will confirm

that O.K or not O.K. By comparing with the first meter of first loom and

approved sample.

Loom checkers job:

Any type of fault like

1. stop mark

2. miss pick

3. double pick

4. wrong knotting etc found then this sample is not approved

List of equipments:

1. scissor

2. pick counter

3. measuring tape

Quality Standard:

100

Given on the dispo paper

DAILY WEAVING PERFORMANCE REPORT

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

BEXIMCO TEXTILES LIMITED

Date: ………

Order

#

Customer Construction Quality Shade Starting

time

Loom

#

Sample

Rcv

Time

Sign Remark

101

QUALITY ASSURANCE & LAB TESTING SECTION

PHYSICAL TESTS:

Test Name Equipments Manufacturer

Thread per inch Thread counter James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Gram per square meter G.S.M tester James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Width test Measuring tape N/A

Tensile strength Elmendorf tearing tester

1653

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Seam slippage Alphatens James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Abrasion resistance Nu-Martindale

Abrasion & Pilling tester

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Pilling resistance ICI pilling box James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Thermal stability Roaches Roaches engineering

limited

Crease resistance Shirley crease

recovery tester

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

102

England

CHEMICAL TEST:


Wash Fastness Gyro wash James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Water Fastness Perspirometer &

Carbolite

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Sweat Fastness Perspirometer &

Carbolite

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Light Fastness Light fastness

Tester(Mercury vapor

lamp)

James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Crocking Fastness Crocometer James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

Washing stability Wascator James. H. Heal &

Company, Halifax,

England

ANALYSIS:

103


Fiber analysis Electronic microscope James swift U.K.

Fabric analysis Balance, Thread counter N/A

Design analysis N/A N/A

104

GREY FABRIC INSPECTION:

PROCESS DEFINATION:

Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric

just after the grey fabric production in the loom.

EQUIPMENT:

1. Inspection table

2. Fabric inspection machine(Nazer, L 90p, Pakistan)

KEY ACCESSORIES:

Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE:

Operation stuff:

Cloth doffer, cloth meter, inspector.

MACHINE SET-UP:

Machine set up Parameter range Set value

Roller speed 100-1500 rev/hr 590-600 rev/hr

Light N/A Artificial light

Length measuring meter N/A Attached with the

105

machine

OPERATION PROCEDURE:

Operation Stuff:

Operation stuffs of Inspection Process include:

Factory Manager

↓

Manager, Quality Control

↓

Production Executive

↓

Supervisor

↓

Sr. Inspector

↓

Inspector

↓

Helper

MACHINE SET-UP:

M/C Set Value & Parameter

Check

: M/C Set Value & Functionality

Check

1. Guide roller speed : 40 meter/min

2. Light : Artificial day light

3.Length measuring meter : Attached with the fabric & the

m/c

4. Automatic cutter(knife) : Functionality check

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5. Slippage measuring roller : Functionality observe

6. Batcher : Check batcher setting with motor

Inspection Room:


The steps involved in the Inspection Process is as follows:

1. Inspector connects the batcher with motor and feeds the fabric by the

guide roller. The fabric goes through a special table where there are

arrangements for special lighting to detect faults in the fabric visually.

2. At the beginning of inspection of any roll, a 10” × 6” sample is cut from

each roll and kept as a color reference. The ‘side to centre’ and ‘side to

side’ shading is checked using this sample. All rolls are checked in similar

way and Roll to Roll shade continuity is maintained for every batch. Then

it is properly labeled with the fabric reference number or name, batch

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number, color and date. Later, it is checked with the Standard Lab dip

and with previously produced batch.

3. Fabric is inspected as per inspection procedure of 4-point system. After

the inspection, the fabric is rolled or folded without any crease and is

packed by polythene paper. The inspector puts the Identification Sticker

on the fabric roll with details of the fabric (i.e. order no, customer, batch

no, shade, roll no, usable width composition etc.).

Type of fabric : Maximum Roll size

(meter)

1. Poplin : 250

2. Yarn dyed : 250

3. T.C Fabric : 300

4. Twill : 150

4. The good as well as reject quantities are entered in the MASH module of

Datatex system with respective quality codes and then they are

transferred to the finished goods stores.

Four Point Inspection System:

Generally any piece of fabric with less than 40 points fault per 100 square yard is

allowed to pass however for a roll; the average value should not exceed 28

points per 100 square yards. More than 40 points fault per 100 square yards is

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recorded as reject. Normally fabric faults are recorded using the 4-point system

given below:

4-Point Grading System

Fault length Points to be assigned

(0 to 7.5) cm or less than 3” 1 points

(7.5 to 15) cm or (3” to 6”) 2 points

(15 to 22.5) cm or (6” to 9”) 3 points

More than 22.5 cm or 9” 4 points

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FINISHED FABRIC INSPECTION:

PROCESS DEFINATION:

Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejecting the final

finished fabric from the bulk it is an observation process to find out each and

every visible fault in the fabric.

EQUIPMENT:

1. OFFRI or OFF-FRIGERIO-SRL for inspection.

2. OFFRI or OFF-FRIGERIO-SRL for packing of fabric roll.

KEY ACCESSORIES:

1. Scissors

2. Blade

3. Measuring tape

4. Length-measuring meter,

5. Needle with forceps

6. leveling m/c

7. Pick counter

MATERIALS USED FOR PACKING:

1. Polythene of 0.2 – 0.3mm thickness

2. Paper tube of 148-150cm

Inner dia of 3-3.5cm

Outer dia of 4-5cm

Thickness of 0.4-0.5cm

(Paper tube should be strong enough for handling)

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3. Batch ticket &

4. Identification sticker

5. Arrow sticker

6. Measuring tape etc.


As a new beam (or article) is set to a loom either by drawing cum gaiting or

tying, it

is the task of the loom technician to check and set.

All necessary setting, gauging and operating values through the loom

function panel

and mechanical means. After all setting has been done, the loom function is

checked

by slow running or inching. The first meter of the fabric is made with

normal

running and cut off from the loom and checked over an inspiration box

against light.

The fabric is checked visually for:

1. Any wrong pattern setting.

2. Any wrong drawing & denting.

3. Fabric width, warp & weft density.

4. Any other cloth defect.

Any fault found in the fabric is corrected over the loom and is handed over to

the operator for normal running.

For all types of yarn dyed fabrics and specially designed fabric of solid dyed

class the first meter of the fabric is sent to Q.C. department for subsequent test

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and upon getting quality approval form Q.C. manager/weaving is started. The

quality approval sheet is filed in weaving as a record.

THE TECHNICIAN’S PROCEDURE IS AS FOLLOWS:

From the quality card set over the loom, the technicians find out the

respective grey fabric request form from Assistant Manager’s office for setting –

Pick density

Woven design, i.e. lifting plan

Weft color patterning

Beam length

Cut length, etc.

Depending on the yarn count, weave design and sizing beam condition

the loom r.p.m is decided and set by changing motor pulley, if required.

Yarn count, weave design, Drawing width, r.p.m etc. is set to the initial

condition setting mode of the loom computer. In this state some important

values like picking timing, valve timing, let off tension etc. are set automatically.

Beam length and cut length also set in the weaver mode.

According to the drawing width, measuring band position is set

mechanically using the ”Help” switch of the basic operation mode. Weft feeler’s

setting, shed angle and shed timing setting, sub-nozzle setting , temple setting,

R.S. cutter setting are done mechanically as per machine manufacturer operating

manual.

The weft patterning as worked out by design analyst or Assistant

Manager is set to pattern setting mode and in case of dobby design the worked

out lifting plan is set to the dobby basic setting mode.

All the setting is executed by the switch.

Then the machine is run slowly by inching mechanism on run set mode.

If there is no fault found, the machine is set at normal operating speed. The air

pressure is checked to correspond with the picking timing.

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Sometimes to achieve higher efficiency & cloth quality the initial

condition setting values (standard) like picking timing, shedding timing, start &

stop timing, let off tension etc. are changed.

Regular checking is also carried out during operator and different

parameters are fine-tuned as required to achieve highest possible loom running

efficiency.

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114

Chapter II

Utility Service

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Utility Services:Utility Service is

There are following utility services are available in Beximco:1. Gas.2. Water.3. Electricity.4. A/c Plant (Chiller).5. Compressed Air.6. Steam.7. Efluent treatment plant.

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Power generation:

Facility:The main utility electricity is generated by generators which are operated by Gasand Diesel engine. There are also the connection of R.E.B for urgent use.

There are 10 gas engine operated generators

Engine Name: WARTSILA SCAM DIESELManufacturing Country: France.

Generator: STAMFORDManufacturing Country: England

Another 3 Diesel engine operated generatorsName: SCANIA (2) and WAKESHA (1)

Capacity:Capacity/ generator: 1MW/ 1000 KWTotal Capacity: 10 MW.

0.3 – 0.4 m3 Gas is required per KW electricity generationGas is supplied from Titas Gas.

Specification:1. Gas engine used.2. 16 cylinders per engine3. Overall efficiency – 80%4. Heat recovery possible from 4 engines5. Stroke of engine – 176 mm6. Cylinder capacity – 71.6 dm37. Ignition pressure – 90 bar8. Piston speed – 9m/s9. Air flow of full load = 1.65 kg /hour.

10. Exhaust flow of full load= 1.7 kg /hour.11. Exhaust gas temperature =500ºC12. Pressure of gas = 60 -62 millibar13. Air pressure =7 bar14. Engine rpm=150015. Engine temperature= 85º C – 90ºC16. Cylinder Temperature = 550º C – 650ºC17. Oil change after 750 hours18. Oil required /engine = 180 lt.

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Distribution:Different Section of BTL, BDL, BKL.BTL 6 MWBDL 1 MWBKL 1 MWGarments 1 MWPadma spinning 1 MW.

Steam generation:

Facility:Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the conditionsdemand of steam in different sections.Fire tube type boiler is used to steam generation.No. of boiler: 5 twine boiler

a) 4 boiler is operated by Titas gasb) 1 boiler is operated by burn gas from generatorc) Another boiler operated by burn gas use to heat the water.

Capacity:4 boiler – Each 10 ton /hr.1 boiler – 2.5 ton /hr.Total – 42.5 ton /hr.Steam flow 9 ton/hr each (approximately)

Specification:1) 3 phase heating system2) The lower drum is 100% water filled and the top drum is 60%

water & 40% steam filled.3) Measuring meter for water supply.4) 4” depth greasol insulation so no heat at outside.5) Steam pressure 8.2 kg/cm2

6) Water pressure 10.3 kg/cm2

7) Manufacturer: Thermax, India8) Steam temperature: 185ºC9) Boiler temperature (inner): 225 -275ºC

Chemicals used for boiler feed water:NaCl solution for regeneration.NALCO-4654 (Scale removal)

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Distribution:

1. The major portion of the steam is supplied to the BTL dye house.To heating the drying Cylinder.To heating the calendar rollers.Heating the chemicals liqor.

2. Sizing section of BTL & BDLFor Size cookingSize box to keep required viscosity

3. Garments sectionFor steaming and ironing.

Compressed Air:

Facility:Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor &

the air is compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence coldwater is drawn to reduce the temperature of compressed air. Thus the cold waterbecomes slightly hot & goes through outlet pipe to the overhead deserver. Thenthe water falls slowly through a sieve and becomes cool & feed to thecompressor. At the other hand the cooled compressed air along with somevapors are transferred to the reservoir where the vapors are condensed andoutlets drop by drop.The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressesair is delivered to required sections of Beximco industrial park.

Capacity:Total number ofCompressor

: 6

Capacity : 775 Lt/sec.Pressure of deliver air : 8.5 bars (designed)

6.5 – 7.0 bars (actually produced)Temperature of deliveryair

: 26ºC

The compressors deliver oil and moisture free compressed air.

Specification:a) Name: Air compressor.b) Brand name: Electronikon-ZR5c) Manufacturer: ATLAS COPCO AIR POWER n.v. WILRIJK, BELGIUM.

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d) Model: ZR5-50 & ZR-300e) Type: Rotary screw type.f) Year of manufacture: 1995

Parameters Set valueUnloading pressure 7.5 barPressure difference 0.6 barOil pressure 1.2barMotor running time 15 sec

Distribution:1. The major consumption of compressed air is in weaving section.2. To the looms for pick insertion (for Air jet loom).3. To clean different section and machinery4. To the sensors where pneumatic pressure required (computerized control

machines).5. For the compensator movement.6. Pneumatically controlled loading and unloading of yarn dyeing

machinery7. Pneumatically controlled loading and unloading of different machinery.

Chilling and Air conditioning:

Facility:

The machine by which water is cooled down below its normal temperature (i.e. 9– 9.5ºC) is called chiller. To chill water which is used at A/C plant to maintainrequired amount of relative humidity and temp.

Capacity:Number of Chiller: 4Number of A/C plant: 3Chiller capacity = (210 X 3 + 500 X 1) ton =1130 ton water.Abrasion type chiller is used.

Specification:1) Brand name: ENMAX ABSORPTION CHILLER.2) Manufacturer: THERMAX LIMITED.

i. Absorption cooling division.ii. CHINCHWARD, PUNE 411019 INDIA

3) Manufacturing date: July19974) Model: B211 (chiller no. 1, 2, 3)

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DW500A(Chiller no. 4)5) Capacity: 160 N.R.T. */hr (chiller no. 1, 2, 3 each)

400 N.R.T. */hr (chiller no. 4)6) Steam pressure: 8 – 8.5 kg/cm sq.7) Electrical specification: 415 v 3 ph 50 Hz.8) Water inlet temp : 15ºC.9) Water outlet temp: 9 – 9.5ºC

* N.R.T./hr = Normal Refrigerant Ton/hour.(1 N.R.T. = 12,000 B.th.U exchanged or evaporated).

Refrigerant specification:1. Lower shell pressure = 6.2 mm Hg (Absorbed +Evaporator)2. Upper shell pressure = 49.8 mm Hg (Low temp. generator)3. High temp. generator pressure = 671.5 mm Hg.4. Dilute solution concentration = 58.6%5. Medium solution concentration = 61.0%6. Strong / concentrated solution concentration=63.4%

Distribution:The maintenance of relative humidity and temp is very important for

weaving to reduce yarn breakage and produce quality fabric. The chiller andA/C plant maintain required amount of relative humidity (80 – 85%) and temp(22 – 26ºC) in weaving 1,2,3 section. warping, winding and Final inspectionsection.

Water:

Facility:Continuous supply of iron and hardness free water for BTL, BDL & BKL

must be ensured by pump.Capacity:Mainly two pumps are used for water pick up.

Pump Capacity SetupSubmersible pump – I 260m3/hr Discharge value: 100% openSubmersible pump – II 204 m3/hr Discharge value: 100% open

Depth of pump: 140 ft.Also pump for chemical dosing & centrifugal pump for yarn dyeing.

Chemicals used: Soda Ash.

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Manganese – di – Oxide. Grease or lubricant.

Distribution:The major distributions of water are:

1. BTL dye house.2. BKL dye house.3. BDL4. Boiler house for steam generation.

Gas:

The gas is supplied from Titas Gas.Gas is used for steam production.Gas is used for power generation.

Generally 36 m3 gases are required to produce 1 ton steam.0.3 – 0.4 m3 Gas is required per KW electricity generation.

Cost:Utility CostElectricity 4 Tk/ KWAir 0.60 Tk/m3Water 17Tk/m3.Waste water 12 Tk/m3Steam 500 Tk/ton.

Remarks:Most utility are made of own machines. So the continuous supply is possible.The costs of utilities are also less than government supply. For large project itconsumes more utilities.

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Chapter

Store & InventoryControl

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STORE & INVENTORY CONTROLINTRODUCTION:

Inventory is planning and execution involves participation by most ofthe fundamental segment of business sales, production, purchase, finance andaccounting. Inventory is a wider sense is defined as any idle resource of anenterprise how ever it is semi-finished packing spares and other stocked in orderto meet an expected demand or distribution.

OBJECTIVES OF INVENTORY CONTROL:

1) Financial activities:a) To save amount of investmentb) To know the cash position

2) Property Protection:a) Preventable wasteb) Insurable damagec) Unauthorized use

3) Operating:a) To obtain the best overall balance between production

and inventory carrying cost.b) To minimize losses

c) To avoid stock out and to keep inventory holdingcosts in costs in balance.

INVENTORY SYSTEMS:For Raw Materials:

In this factory, Beximco Textiles Limited, raw materials areyarn of different type, different count and of padma spinning section and sometime abroad. As according to Weaving section demand yarn is produced inPadma spinning mills, Beximco Synthetics and some times from foreign countryand they are kept in the store for raw materials in accordance with type andcount. As like as polyester, cotton, lycra are kept separately and also to theircount variation. Inventory office keeps record of this raw materials amount, theirusage and storage.Raw material partially received from production planning & directly from headoffice.Material receiving & inspection report (MRIR) is prepared. Receive quantity ismentioned & noted down.Department gives store requisition to warehouse.As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.There is a software which is networking with various section where theseinformation are required. The software is Data tex.

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For Spares:Different spare parts of Weaving machines and other

equipments are kept in store as inventory so that there are no time and moneylosses while it is being used. Here also Data tex software is used.

For Finished Goods:Finished goods in Beximco Textiles are the Finished Fabric.

Finished fabrics are delivered to the garments section or to the buyer. Here alsoData tex software is used.

For Others:--------------------------Say some thing----------------------

STORE ROOM:

There are four type store room in Beximco Knitting Limited.a) Yarn Store.

a. Grey.b. Dyed.

b) Fabric Store.a. Greige.b. Finished.

c) Main Store.The main store room contain this following goods-

a) Size Chemicals.b) Packing materials.c) Stationary books.d) Electrical & Mechanical parts.e) All kinds of weaving parts.

FREQUENCY ON INVENTORY UPDATE:

Monthly inventory control Annual inventory control

SCOPE OF INVENTROY CONTROL:

Raw materials : Yarn (Grey & Dyed) Finished fabric Spare parts General store (Capital equipment, Accessories, Stationary,

Maintenance parts)

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REMARKS:

The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably. An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory. The department is computer oriented & connected by ERP.

Engineering

Industrial Attachment of Beximco textiles limited (btl)