Obliphica Color Training

COLOR TRAINING

PERMANENT CREAM COLOR BRILLIANT COLOR AND LONG LASTING SHINE EXCLUSIVE FOR HAIRDRESSERS

Content

• Information about the brand – pg3

• General Information – pg5

• First coloration – pg10

• Hilifting – pg12

• Rivertive Pigmentation – pg16

• Semi permanent color – pg18

• Color Circle – pg19

• Lightening – pg28

• Color Theory – pg29

• Troubleshooting – pg38

Color Training August 2010

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German-Swiss Brand

Exclusive for professionals

Since 2008 in Germany

1999 started in Switzerland

Obliphica Cream Colors offers:

High coverage & extended durability

Pronounced color fastness

Effective shine & care


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Ingredients •Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Propylen Glycol, Ammonia, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffinum Liquidum,

Buxus Chinensis, Cera Alba, Silk Amino Acids, EDTA, Sodium Sulfite, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Perfum, Anisyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Saliycylate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Farnesol,

Geraniol, Linalol

•May contain: Toluylene-2,5-Diamin Sulfate, Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol, p-Aminophenol, o-Aminophenol, 1,5-Naphthalenediol,

2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl, 1-Naphthol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene, N,N-Bis(2-Hydroxy-ethyl)-p-Phenylendiamin Sulfate,

2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol, 4-Amino-m-cresol, p-Phenylendiamine, HC Red 3, 3-Methyl-4-Aminophenol, 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine,

2,6-Dihydroxyethyl-Aminotoluene, 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol, 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-3-Nitrophenol

•3 Component – System:

Care Phase, Oil Phase, Carrier Phase with pigments


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General Information about

Ingredients

• Ammonia ensures better penetration into the cuticle

• Carrier Phase guarantees an even supply of pigments

• Care Phase gives softness and sheen

• Special ingredients, like Jojoba oil, Beeswax and Silk

proteins

• Oil Phase encapsules the hair shaft and holds the

pigments in the cuticle.


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General Information

Production

• Made in Germany

• Guidelines of Good-Manufacturing-Practice (GMP)

• Production with state-of-the-art technology and well

educated professional staff

• Quality control prior and during production process

• Finished products are subject to a systematic quality

control


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General Application

• Do not wash hair prior to treatment

• Perform sensibilisation test

• Protect body and clothes by appropriate

measures (gloves, apron, wrap)

• Use colors under metal free conditions!


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General Application

• Mix Cream Colors with Creme-Oxidizer to a

homogenous mixture

• Apply mixture with a brush strand by strand

down to the ends

• Avoid contact with scalp

• Chose quantity of product mixture depending

on the length of the hair to be colored


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Warning and Security Advice • Perform skin sensibilisation test behind the ear of the

customer

• Dye hair of customers only if they do not show any allergic symptoms after 48 hours

• Only for professional use

• Product can cause allergic reactions

• At eye contact rinse with plenty of water

• Not for use on eyebrows and eyelashes

• Wear proper gloves

• Keep out of reach of children

• Do not use on injured scalp (scratches, scrape)

• Do not use after a perm has been applied

• Bleeding and stains on textiles are possible


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First Coloration

General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream colors with cream oxidizer: 1:1

20 Vol. / 6% Oxidizer => color tone on tone, 1 tone lightening or 1 tone darker

coloring

30 Vol. / 9% Oxidizer => lightening of 2-3 tones


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Application time at global tinting:

tone on tone or 1 tone darker: apply Cream Colors immediately from hairline to

hair-ends – let stay on hair for 30-40 minutes.

Lightening: apply Cream Colors first on to the hair lengths and hair-ends, after 20

minutes lay on Cream Colors to the hairline for additional 30-40 minutes.

Tip:

Use one step higher concentrated Cream Oxidizer in order to boost color intensity at

hair lengths and hair-ends! (overoxidation)


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Hilift

• General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream Colors with Cream Oxidizer: 1:2

• with 9% => lightening up to 3 tones

• with 12% => lightening up to 4-5 tones


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Hilift The steps of the lightening tinting:

•Hilift 4-5 tones 1 : 2 step 5

12%


9%


12%


9%

Normal coloring 1 : 1 step 1

Darker/Tone-on-tone/Hilift for 1 tone 6%


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Special Blond

Hilifting

Blonde coloration with Special Blonde Shades


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Special Blonde

Shades

Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result

12N Light blonde to light brown Lightest color results without

additional hilift, especially suitable for

dying of strands

12.1A Medium blonde to dark

blonde

Slight ash reflection

12.1A Light brown to dark blonde Light blonde

12.3G Dark brown to medium

blonde

Warm natural gold reflection

Hilifting


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Special Blonde

Shades

Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result

12.7NW Medium blonde to light

brown

Light blonde with beige-brownish

reflection, good coverage

12.7NW Dark blonde Brown reflection on lightest blonde

12.81P Medium blonde to light

brown

Blonde with pearl reflection, covers

orange shade very good

12.81P Dark blonde Light ash blonde

12.89BP Medium blonde to dark

blonde

Pearl reflection, covers orange shade

12.89BP Dark blonde Pearl reflection

Rivertive Pigmentation

•For outgrown, lightened hair or to remove lightened hair strands :

The natural color tone will be maintained

•Pigmentation by following working steps:

- apply 1 part color + 2 parts soft conditioner (without oxidizer) - Afterward apply semi-permanent/color – time of application approx 30 minutes

- Treat afterwards with Acid Balancer and Shampoo Color


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Rivertive Pigmentation

•Use Shade 5N for Rivertive Pigmentation of dark blonde

•Use Shade 3N or 4N for Rivertive Pigmentation of light brown

or medium brown

•Use Shade 6.3G or 7.3G for Rivertive Pigmentation for light blonde

or medium blonde

•Work on towel dried hair (natural hair will not take this preparation)

•Afterwards use Obliphica Cream Colors as semi permanant hair color


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Semi permanent color Instruction of use:

• 1 part Cream Colors + 1 part Cream Oxidizer

volume 6

• If more nourishing treatment is necessary add

Soft Conditioner with Cream Oxidizer volume

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• Time of application depending on condition

of hair: 20-40 minutes

• Tip: The result will be intensivized when

heat is used during application time


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Natural Shades

Ash Shades

Golden Shades

Mix Shades

Color Circle

Obliphica Color


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Natural Shades

8 N

3 N

7 N

4 N

6 N 5 N

2 N


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Natural Shades

9 N 10 N 12 N 11 N


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Ash Shades

2.1B

6.1 A 7.1 A

8.1 A

9.1 A 10.1 A 11.1 A 12.1 A


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Golden Shades

10.3 G 12.3 G

5.3 G

8.3 G 9.3 G

6.3 G 7.3 G


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6.34GR 7.34GR 8.34GR 9.34GR

5.4RC 6.4RC 7.4RC 8.4RC

Red

Gold Red

12.81P 11.81P 12.89BP Pearl Blonde


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Mix Shades

0.44Red 0.33Gold

0.66 P 0.45 RM

0.88Blue


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8.45 RM 7.45 RM 6.45 RM 5.45RM

3.6 BV 4.6 BV 5.6 BV 9.6 BV

Red Mahogany

Purple


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4.75BR 5.75BR 6.75MB 7.75MB

5.7 NW

8.7 NW 7.7 NW

6.7 NW

12.7 NW 9.7 NW

Brown Mahogany

Chocolate


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2N 6N 8N

Lightening Natural base colors and tone heights – the dominant melanin pigments are:

• 12N Very light blonde – Very light yellow

• 9N Light blonde – Light yellow

• 8N Blonde – Yellow

• 7N Medium blonde – Orange/yellow

• 6N Dark blonde – Orange

• 5N Light medium brown – Red/orange

• 4N Medium brown – Red

• 3N Dark brown – Red/red

• 2N Black – Red/red/red


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Color Theory

• Each color nuance comprises a combination of different pigments.

• Natural tone/color depth

• Primary pigments/color direction

• Secondary pigments/color direction

• Tertiary pigments (a combination of primary and secondary colors).


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The primary color pigments:

Yellow

Red

Blue

The secondary color pigments:

Orange (yellow + red)

Violet/Mauve (red + blue)

Green (yellow + blue)

The tertiary color pigments:

A combination of the primary pigments and the secondary pigments.


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Three primary colors

The most popular basic color wheel

(mainly developed by painters from the 18th century and later)

Starts with three primary colors: yellow, red and blue.

These three are the basis for mixing all the other colors.

Together they produce a neutral colors - usually a dark grey

blue

yellow

red


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When you mix the primary colors in this basic color wheel, you get secondary colors:

yellow and blue produce green

yellow blue green


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• blue and red produce violet mauve

blue red violet

• red and yellow produce orange.

red yellow orange


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This leaves each primary color with a complementary color

(mixed from the other two primary choices).

Blue/orange, red/green and yellow/violet are complementary colors.

blue orange

red green

yellow violet


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It is obvious that the colors now really begin to develop.

This gives all the fantastic nuances around the color wheel from greenish blues to yellowy greens. There are called ‘tertiary’ colors

Complementary colors are directly opposite each other on the color wheel diagram. Each couple supplement each other to produce a neutral color.

Mix two complementary colors and you will get the old dark grey.


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Natural Color Pigment (Melanin)

The hair’s natural color is based on melanin.

Our genetic background determines the concentration. Some people have melanin in

their skin and in the inner core of the hair.

Melanin helps to convert the rays of the sun to energy.

Melanin is the skin’s and hair’s natural color pigment and consists of three color

pigments.


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The three color pigments can be divided into three main groups:

Eumelanin is bluish and the most common and is typically seen in the hair of people from Africa, Asia, Southern Europe and among Eskimos.

People from South East Asia and Eskimos have the highest concentration of Eumelanin.

It is therefore almost impossible to lighten this type of hair as it will take on a yellowish sheen.

Pheomelanin is yellowish and is typically found among people from Scandinavia.

Trichosiderin is reddish and typically found in people from England, Ireland and Scotland.

Troubleshooting

In case color result does not provide enough coverage => possible reasons:

• Cream Color was applied too thinly, e.g. single parts of the hair did get only poor or no color at all.

• The application time was not adjusted to the hair type, i.e. fine hair needs less application time of approx. 20 minutes and thicker hair requires up to 45 minutes.

• The color was combed away too early off the hairline in order to balance the length of hair and the hair-ends. The hair shoud be worked through only AFTER the application time.


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Troubleshooting

•Color and Cream Oxidizer weren‘t mixed thoroughly; please do always use a balance to

weigh out correctly the mixing ratio.

•Mixing ratio between fashion shade and natural shade tends too much towards the fashion

shade

•Please make sure to mix always fashion shade to natural shade in the ratio 1: 2 or 1:1


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Troubleshooting

•If an intensive red shade should be achieved for hair which is up to 30% non-pigmented

work with a mixing ratio of fashion to natural shade of 2:1

•A too high cream oxidizer was used, i.e. 30 volume instead of 20 volume

•The chosen shade was too light for the white hairline; from shade 9.0 the grey coverage will

not be 100%


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Troubleshooting

Stability of red shades

The stability of the red shades very much depends on the hair structure

Principals to optimize the stability of red fashion shades:

• Use little and a mild shampoo

• Leave hair care treatment products only for a short time on the hair

• Longterm goal is to achieve a good and healthy hair structure

Practical advice to optimize the stability of the red shades:

work with extended application time

higher dyestuff supply allows the potential for highlift and a better color result


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THANK YOU VERY MUCH

FOR YOUR ATTENTION!


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Education

Obliphica Color Training