Industrial Attachment

Report on Industrial Attachment

Northern Fashion Ltd. Plot # 16-18, Dakhin Panishail, EPZ-Kaliakoir Road,Kashimpur, Gazipur.

(1st February to 31st March, 2011)

Prepared By

Name ID Batch Md. Moktadidul Hoque 2007100400008 5th

Sanjib Kumar Roy 2007100400029 5th

Department of Textile Engineering Southeast university

Date of Submission: 16 May, 2011

Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering

Report on Industrial Attachment

Northern Fashion Ltd Plot # 16-18, Dakhin Panishail, EPZ-Kaliakoir Road, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

(1st Fbruary to 31st March,2011)

Supervising Teacher

Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan Murad

Chairman,

Department of Textile Engineering

Southeast University

Prepared By

Name ID Batch Signature Md. Moktadidul Hoque 2007100400008 5th

Sanjib Kumar Roy 2007100400029 5th

Department of Textile Engineering Southeast University

Date of Submission: 16 May, 201

Acknowledgement

To preparing this report a number of people have made considerable contribution. Their in-sights, advice and suggestions helped us a lot. We would like to pay special thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, [Chairman; Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast Uni-versity], for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.

We would also like to express our heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, [Assistant Profes-sor; Department of Textile Engineering; Southeast University] for all necessary informa-tion for preparing this report.

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Touhid, [Senior production officer; Northern Fashion Ltd] , who help us lot at time of industrial training and he share us lot of experience and we gather knowledge about industrial environment.

We also express our thanks S.M. Aminur Rahaman [Manager HR, Admin & compliance Northern fashion Ltd.] for providing a chance and allowed us to work in the organization during the Industrial training period.

We express our heartiest thanks to Assistant General Manager of dyeing section & Manager of Knitting section. Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge on various fabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professional knowledge.

Our sincere appreciation goes to the entire Northern Fashion Ltd. team for extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period.

However, we have prepared my Industrial Training report overcoming all the difficulties & also the shortage of time. Here I would like to present the report.

Date: 16 May, 2011 Acknowledged By

Sanjib Kumar Roy Md. Moktadidul Hoque

Chapter Chapter Name Page

1 Northern Fashion at a Glance -------------------------------------------- 1 – 12

2 Manpower Management -------------------------------------------------- 13 – 16

3 Knitting Section ------------------------------------------------------------ 17 – 32

4 Dyeing & Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------- 33 – 106

5 Garments Section ---------------------------------------------------------- 107 – 120

6 Maintenance ---------------------------------------------------------------- 121 – 123

7 Utility Service -------------------------------------------------------------- 124 – 128

8 Story & Inventory---------------------------------------------------------- 129 – 130

9 Cost Analysis --------------------------------------------------------------- 131 – 132

10 Marketing Activities ------------------------------------------------------ 133 – 135

11 Conclusion ------------------------------------------------------------------ 136 – 137

Content

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NORTHERN FASHION LTD.

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Chapter 1 Northern Fashion at A Glance

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Northern Fashion Ltd. [NFL]

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Northern Fashion Ltd. is a state-of-the-art Knitting, Dyeing – Finishing & Garment Manufac-turing factory. The project has been a setting up of a 100% export oriented composite knit garment unit. The project has been designed to fulfill the present world market demand for producing most value added fabrics. The project is equipped with open width finishing line. This helps saving all types of fabrics consumption. Also the quality of fabrics is improved tremendously. The machinery of the project is Brand new and has been imported from abroad. The project has been started its commercial operation in the mid of 2007.

Objectives:

� To meet the appropriate expectations of clients � To gain confidence of the Buyers � To be the "Tag carrier of made in Bangladesh" � To create employment opportunities � Speedy Communication through Internet & Telecom services

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Location:

Corporate Office Address Factory Address

Plot # 91 (3rd Floor), Suhrawardy Avenue, Block – K Baridhara, Dhaka – 1212, Bangladesh Tel: 8854063, 8831140 Fax: 880 – 2 - , 8831150 www.northerngroup.com.bd

Plot # 16 – 18, Dakhin Panishail, EPZ – Kaliakoir Road, Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh. (P.O. Box # 1349 BKSP) Tel: 7788383 – 5 Fax: 8802 – 7701922 www.northerngroup.com.bd

Person to be Contacted

Sayeed Hassan Managing Director Northern Fashion Ltd. Cell: 01819813951 E-mail: [email protected]

Sohel Monzoor Director Northern Fashion Ltd. Cell: 01819813950 E-mail: [email protected]

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Geographical Location:

Latitude : 23°59'29.67"N

Longitude : 90°15'26.59"E

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Factory Layout:

EPZ-Kaliakoir Road

Main Factory Building

Utility & Store

Building

ETP

WTP

Stuff Quarter & Dining

Scequrity Room

Gas Line Meter Entry & Exit Gate

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Other Information:

Category Details

Turnover US $ 18,400,000 in 2009 Banker Eastern Bank Ltd. (Trade Service Division)

Head Office: 10 Dilkusha C/A, Dhaka- 1000, Bangladesh Tel: 9565696; PABX: 9556360; Fax: 9562362 SWIFT Code: EBLD BD DH

Membership a. Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BKMEA)

b. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer & Exporter’s Association

(BGMEA)

c. Export Promotion Bereau (EPB) of Bangladesh Government

International Certification

a. Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Confidence In Textiles, Germany

b. WRAP(11536), USA

Production Capacity (Annually)

Knitting Section: 900,000 kgs Dyeing Section: 21,00,000 kgs Garments Section: 450,000 dozens

Product Categories Mens, Ladies and Children

Products Circular Knit T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tang Top, Sports Wear etc. of various types of Fabric such as Single Jersey, Rib, French Terry Interlock, Fleece of 100% Cotton, Lycra, Viscose, Modal,

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Category Details

Polyamide, CVC, and other Polyester, etc. Production Lead-Time

Sample: 07 Days Order : 60 – 45 Days Reorder: 15 Days

Factory Space 180,000 SFT (Approximately) Number of Worker & Staff

1320 Persons

Different Depart-ment

� Knitting � Dyeing & Finishing � Garments � General Store � Administration � Human Resources & Compliance � Marketing & Merchandising � Accounts � Maintenance � Utility

Compliance:

Northern Fashion Ltd. complies with specific regulation and requirement state by the land of law or by the customer against work environment, sound, noise, safety & health, working hour, wages, mandatory benefits, cleaning & hygienic, work regulations etc.

Some examples are given below-

Fire Extinguisher:

Sufficient fire extinguisher in Northern Fashion Ltd.

Drinking Water:

Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for test result. This test result is given below

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY (BUST)

BRTC N0Sent by Proiect Company address EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, GazipurSample IDDate of Test : 24

TEST REPORT (PHYSICAL/ CHEMICAL/ BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF DRINKING WATER SAMPLE)

S.L No.

Water Quality Parameters

1 Total Hardness(as CaCO

2 Manganese (Mn)

3 Iron (Fe)

4 Nitrate(NO

5 Total Dissolved Solid (TDS)

6 Nitrite(NO

7 Copper (Cu)

Comments:

Important Notes:sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. are sent in a secure and sealed cover/pack.

Drinking Water:



Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650

BRTC N0. : 03967/ 10 : NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED - Water Test

Company address : Roil 16EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, GazipurSample ID : As Per Client

Test : 24/10/20


Water Quality Parameters

Total Hardness (as CaCO3) Manganese (Mn)

Iron (Fe)

Nitrate-Nitrogen (NO3 – N) Total Dissolved Solid (TDS)

Nitrite-Nitrogen (NO2 – N) Copper (Cu)

Comments: 1. Sample was supped by CLIENT2. Sample was received in unsealed condition.

Important Notes: Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. are sent in a secure and sealed cover/pack.


BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY (BUST)DEPA

Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY

0-11/CE; Dt: 2411012010NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED

: Roil 16-18, Dakhin Panishil,

EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, GazipurClient Letter

010 – 08/11/2010


Water Quality Unit Concentration

mg/l

Manganese (Mn) mg/l

mg/l

Nitrogen mg/l

Total Dissolved mg/l

Nitrogen mg/l

mg/l

Sample was supped by CLIENTSample was received in unsealed condition.

Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. are sent in a secure and sealed cover/pack.

Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for test result. This test result is given below-

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY (BUST)DEPARTMENT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING


11/CE; Dt: 2411012010 NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED

18, Dakhin Panishil, EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

08/11/2010 TEST REPORT (PHYSICAL/ CHEMICAL/ BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF DRINKING WATER SAMPLE)

Concentration Present

66

0.007

0.15

0.3

121

<MDL

0.051

Sample was supped by CLIENT Sample was received in unsealed condition.

Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. are sent in a secure and sealed cover/pack.

NORTHERN

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for -

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY (BUST)RTMENT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING


Ref, No. Source


Bangladesh Standard for Drinking Water (ECR’97)

200 – 500

0.1

0.3 – 1.0

10

1000

< 1

1

Sample was received in unsealed condition.

Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested.

ORTHERN

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITYDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for employees that are


Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650-80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY

Ref, No. : NFL / Admin

Source : Fresh water


Bangladesh Standard for

WHO Guideline Values,

2004

500

0.4

0.3

50

1000

3

2

Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested.

FASHION


employees that are


80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY

: NFL / Admin- 03; Dt: 18/10/2010

: Fresh water


Guideline Method ofanalysis

USEPA 130.2;SM2340 C

PANMethodUSEPA

200.9SM;3111USEPA 353.

4500-NOUSEPA

160.2;SM25D

USEPA 353.4500-NO

USEPA 200.9SM;3111

Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. BTRC does not have any rsponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. It is recommended that sample

ASHION LTD.


employees that are ensured by


80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY

03; Dt: 18/10/2010


Method of analysis

Minimum Detection

Limit (MOL)

USEPA 2340 C

AN Method USEPA

200.9SM;3111 B USEPA 353.2; SM

NO3-N-F USEPA

160.2;SM2540 B-

USEPA 353.2; SM NO2-N-F

USEPA 200.9SM;3111 B

BTRC does not have any rIt is recommended that sample

10

TD.


ensured by BUET


80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/

TEST REPORT (PHYSICAL/ CHEMICAL/ BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF DRINKING WATER SAMPLE) Minimum Detection

Limit (MOL)

0.2

0.005

0.02

0.1

5

0.008

0.014

BTRC does not have any re-It is recommended that sample

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Complain System:

In Northern fashion Ltd employees/labors complains are handled out by the following dia-gram below-

Manager – HR

Employee/Labor

� Administration Officers � Compliance Officers � Welfare Officers � Production Related Officers

� Paper � Complain Box � Labor Participating Committee

Manager – Production

Solved Unsolved

Info

rmat

ion

flow

Written System Oral System

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Other Compliance Matters:

� No child labor/involuntary labor � Timely payment, incentive, Bonus and leaves following minimum wages � Transportation in companies account for distance labors/staffs � Free routine medical checkup and medical facilities � Training of operators and technical staffs � Regular evacuation drill and trained staffs � Alternative in building staircase � Emergency exit � Forklift and wheel loader to warehouse go-down � Security Observation through CC TV

Remarks:

It’s a wonderful project. This project makes profit more than ever for its strong management. Northern Fashion Ltd. (NFL) is leading house of industries and commerce in Bangladesh having Knitting, Dyeing and Garments industries. The main accomplishment of their project is the highly gas burn power plant and own chemical waste water treatment plant. This is ef-fectively running to remove effluents from drained water. It is such a type of industry which has the ability to maintain finest quality products. To fulfill the buyer requirements the facto-ry has established a strong management and equipped with modern machineries.

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Chapter 2 Manpower Management

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Manpower Organ gram:

Manpower Organ gram of Northern Fashion Ltd. is as follows –

Administration

Managing Director

Director

General Manager

Manager Commer-cial & Logis-tics

Manager HR, Ad-min & Com-pliance

AGM Fabric Division

Manager IED, Plan-ning & MIS

Production Manager (Sewing - 1)

Production Manager (Sewing - 2)

Asst. Man-ager IT

Manager Finance & Accounts

Manager Audit

Manager Quality Assurance (Garments Division)

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Fabric Division

AGM

Production Officer Knitting

APO Knitting

Quality Inspector

QC cum Production coordinator APO Knit-

ting

Supervi-sor cum QC

Fitter Man cum Supervisor

Trainee Supervi-sor cum QC

Knitting Helper

Knitting Operator

Manager Knitting Manager Dyeing- Finishing

Lab Incharge APO Dyeing APO Finishing

Dyeing Supervisor

Finishing Supervisor

Dyeing Operator

Sewing Operator

Dyeing Helper

Compactor Operator

Stenter / Dryer Operator

Slitting Operator

Compactor Helper

Stenter / Dryer Helper

Slitting Helper

Lab Technician

Lab Technician

Lab Assistant

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Shift Change:

The industry maintains three shifts for Knitting and Dyeing & Finishing Section. For Gar-ments section maintains one general shift. Shift duration are given below-

Dyeing & Finishing Shift Duration

A 6 : 00 AM to 2 : 00 PM B 2 : 00 PM to 10.00 PM C 10 : 00 PM to 6 : 00 AM

Garments Section General Shift 8 : 00 AM to 5 : 00 PM (one hour lunch break)

Job Description / Responsibility of Production Officer:

� To prepare programs as per order sheet. � To follow up production time to time & quality of products according to the order

sheet. � To prepare fabric swatch & trim card for buyer`s approval before bulk production � To solve any problem of Dyeing � To give the solution for dia, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, crease mark, line mark and

hand feel problem of the finished fabrics. � To meet the planning schedule according to the requirement of Garments Div. � To submit Daily production reports to the Concern Authority � To maintain registers of dye yarns and samples � To develop new samples and keep it for future requirement. � Any other assignment given by higher authority.

Communication System:

� Intercom Telephone � Fax � E-mail � Written letters � Oral

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Chapter 3 Knitting Section

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Knitting:

Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately pre-ceding it. The basic element of a knit fabric structure is the loops intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it.

The weft knitted structure is very different from the warp knitted one. The difference is ap-parent from both warp and weft knitted structures is shown in simplest forms in below. It is seen from this figure that in a knitted structure a horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.

In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row. One can say that in a warp knitted fabric the threads run roughly in a vertical direction.

Weft Knitting Warp Knitting

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Northern Fashion Ltd. has a state-of-the-art Weft Knitting Section. It has two knitting unit that is known as knitting – 1 and knitting – 2. The capacity of the knitting section has been rated annually as 900,000 kgs of grey fabric.

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Machinery Layout Plan of Knitting – 1

5

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1

2

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14 15

16

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Description of Layout (Knitting – 1)

Symbol Description

1 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-36, G-24, F-108)




5 Rib Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-30, G-18, F-72)

6 Rib Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-30, G-18, F-72)

7 Interlock Knitting Machine (Fukuhara, Dia-30, G-24, F-108)




11 Fabric Inspection Machine



14 Chair, Table & Other Furniture for Assistant Production Officer

15 Space for Yarn Storage

16 Space for Knitting Oil Storage

Exit Way

Column

Drinking Water

Creel

Exit Gate

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Machinery Layout Plan of Knitting – 2

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Description of Layout (Knitting – 2)

Symbol Description

1 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Mayer & Cie, Dia-30, G-28, F-96)


3 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Mayer & Cie, Dia-30, G-28,F-96)


5 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (PAI LUNG, Dia-30, G-18, F-84)

6 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (PAI LUNG, Dia-30, G-18, F-84)

7 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (TERROT, Dia-30, G-24, F-54)

8 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (FUKUHARA, Dia-30, G-24, F-60)


E Electric Balance

F Chair, Table & Other Furniture

Exit Way

Column

Drinking Water

Creel

Exit Gate

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Specification of Knitting Machine:

S.L NO.

Brand Name

Origin Type Dia. Gauge Feeder Qty. Lycra Attach

1 Mayer & Cie Germany S/J 30 28 96 4 Yes 2 Mayer & Cie (Extra cyln) Germany S/J 30 38 96 4 Yes 3 Kemu Yong Korea S/J 36 24 108 2 Yes 4 Kemu Yong Korea S/J 30 24 90 2 No 5 Pailung Taiwan D/J 30 18 84 2 No 6 Terrot Japan D/J 30 24 60 1 No 7 Kemu Yong Korea D/J 30 18 72 2 Yes 8 Fukuhara Japan D/J 30 18 60 1 No 9 Fukuhara Japan D/J 30 24 108 4 Yes

Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:

� GSM cutter

� Electronic balance

� Inspection m/c

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Raw Material of Knitting Section:

There are two types of raw material that is yarn & Elastane. Brand name & origin of the yarn & elastane that is used in Northern Fashion Ltd. is given below-

SL. NO.

Brand Name Origin

1 Vardhaman India 2 T.T India 3 Spot knig India 4 Nahar India 5 Indorama India 6 P.T Gokaka India 7 D.C.M Tex India 8 G.T.N India 9 Square Bangladesh 10 Prime Bangladesh 11 Thermax Bangladesh 12 JK Bangladesh 13 Shirin Bangladesh 14 Hanif Bangladesh 15 PTHM Bangladesh 16 Badsha Bangladesh 17 Bextex Bangladesh 18 Pacific Bangladesh 19 Indothai Indonesia 20 Creora (Elastane) Vietnam

Types of Fabric:

Single jersey & Double Jersey derivatives that is familiar in Northern Fashion Ltd. is given below-

Single jersey Derivatives

1. Single jersey with lycra and without lycra 2. Single lacoste with half feeder lycra ( in lacoste never used full feeder lycra) 3. Pique & double lacoste 4. Two thread terry 5. Denim single jersey 6. Three thread fleece

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Double jersey derivatives

1. (1x1) Rib 2. (1x1) half feeder lycra Rib 3. (1x1)Full feeder lycra Rib 4. (2x1) Rib 5. (2x1) half feeder 6. (2x1) full feeder lycra 7. (2x1) Rib 8. Offal Fabrics 9. I-lack fabric 10. Flat Back Rib

Knitting Parameter & Calculation:

The main parameters & calculations are followed in knitting section, are given below-

Machine or Needle Gauge:

The needle gauge of a knitting machine (also called cut or gage) is a measure expressing the number of needles per a unit of the needle bed (bar) width express in mm.

( )Gauge, N How many needles are used in one English inch 25.4 mm .

Number of needles N

One English inch.

Number of needles N mm.

2.54

=

=

=

Highest needle gauge is about 60 and lowest gauge is about 2 to 2.5.

GSM:

GSM means the weight in gram of one square meter fabric. Mainly it is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance.

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Gauge Selection:

Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter also depends on sev-eral factors such as yarn count, fibre type, yarn finishing etc. general practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in Bangladesh given below:

Yarn count used Machine gauge Yarn count used Machine gauge 16 18 28 22 18 20 28 25 20 20 28 28 20 24 30 22 24 22 30 24 24 24 30 28 26 20 30 34 26 22 34 28 26 24 34 28 26 28

The above values may differ, because it is the results of a research work. There is a relation between yarn in tex and machine gauge is given by equation,

For 1650

Single Jersey, G Tex

= and for 1400

Double Jersey, G Tex

= , where G is measured

in needles per cm.

The yarn count to be used on a circular knitting machine depends largely on the pitch, and thus on the machine gauge. For any given machine gauge it can lie within a larger range, be-cause on the same machine different yarn counts can be used, depending on the knitted struc-ture, the desired optics (fabric appearance) and the fabric properties.

Needle Pitch:

The needle pitch is the distance between two neighboring needles in the same needle bed (bar), from the centre of a needle to the centre of the neighboring needle express in mm.

( ) ( )1

Needle Pitch Length units / Needles Needlegauge length unit

=

Loop or Stitch Length:

The length of yarn knitted into one stitch in a weft knitted fabric. Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and half the length of yarn (half a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Gen-erally, the larger the stitch length the more elastic and lighter the fabric, and the poorer its cover opacity and bursting strength.

Stitch Length, l One needle loop Two half a sinker loop = +

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Yarn Count:

Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.

Yarn count is calculated in two systems:

• Direct system • Indirect system

Suitable Yarn Count Selection:

Yarn count is selected by following equation-

For Single Jersey:

( ) 4320Suitable Yarn Count Ne

Finish GSM=

For Rib (1×1):


Finish GSM=

For Interlock (plain):


Finish GSM=

Production Calculation:

It has been expound in the sections above that the output of a circular knitting machine de-pends on a series of different influencing variables. A wealth of machine data and data on the fabric to be produced is required for calculating production capacity.

In this respect the cylinder diameter d in inch, the gauge E, the system count S, the machine rpm n, and the efficiency level ɳ of the circular knitting machine must be known. The follow-ing data on the fabric produced must also be available:

� The construction (e.g. single jersey , rib, purl etc.) � The course density or course /cm and the weight per unit area in gm/m2.

Production is calculated in accordance with the following equation-

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Machine rpm No. of feeder Effciency 60Running Length (L) = m / hr

No. of feeders per course courses per cm 100

× × ×× ×

Cylinder Diameter in inch Machine GaugeFabric width (WB) = Meter

Wales per cm 100

π× ××

Running length in meter per hour WB Weight in GSMProduction in Kg, P = Kg / hr

1000

× ×

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Knitting Procedure for Elastane Single Jersey Fabric:

Procedure-1 for Lycra S/J

Design Setting on Machine (Cam, Needle Arrangement Setting)

Elastane from Elastane Bobbing

Elastane to Sensor

Elastane to Guide

Elastane to Guide

Elastane Bobbin Place on Bobbin Stand Yarn Cones Place on Creel

Yarn from Cone to Yarn Pipe

Yarn to Feeder

Yarn to Ceramic Eye pot

Yarn & Elastane Feed to Needle

Fabric Rolled on Take-Up Roller

Yarn to Positive Feeder

Ceramic Eye Pot

Knot Catcher

Magnate Pressure

Yarn Wheel (A yarn Storage Device)

Yarn Guide

Sensor

Yarn Guide

Ceramic Eye Pot

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Knitting Procedure for Single Jersey Fabric (Without Elastane)

Procedure-2 for S/J (No Lycra)

Design Setting on Machine (Cam, Needle Arrangement Setting)

Yarn Cones Place on Creel

Yarn from Cone to Yarn Pipe

Yarn to Feeder

Yarn to Ceramic Eye pot

Yarn & Elastane Feed to Needle

Fabric Rolled on Take-Up Roller

Yarn to Positive Feeder

Ceramic Eye Pot

Knot Catcher

Magnate Pressure

Yarn Wheel (A yarn Storage Device)

Yarn Guide

Sensor

Yarn Guide

Ceramic Eye Pot

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Grey Fabric Inspection:

After knitting every roll of grey fabric of each order is inspected for checking “is it meet with the finishing target or not.” Four point method was used for inspection the fabrics. Four grey fabric inspection reports for different four orders are given below-

Grey Fabric Inspection Report Quality Assurance Department

Buyer & Order

Yarn Fabric Type

Finish Dia.

M/C

Qty (Yds)

Size of Fault (F) Total Penalty Point

Pt/100 sq yds & Grade

F ≤ 3″ 3″ < F≤ 6″ 6″< F ≤ 9″ F > 9″

& Hole

Dunnes 1978 AT 34/1

20D S/J, Elas-tane

74″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl3, C2, LO2, S4, OM3

0 0 0 14 (11)

A

Dunnes 2006 AT 34/1

20D S/J, Elas-tane

75″ 30″×28 G 62 Fl3, C2, S4, OM2

0 0 H2 19 (16)

A

Wool Worth 1980 AT

30/1 20D

S/J, Elas-tane

62″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl4, LO1, S4, OM4

0 0 H2 21 (17)

A

Penalty Points Legends: H = Hole Fl = Fly C = Contamination S = Slub St = Stripe LO = Lycra Out OM = Oil Mark VM = Vertical Mark K = Knot NB = Needle Breakage LM = Loop Miss

Four Points System: Acceptance Calculation:

Penalty Point/100 sq. yards

TP 36 100

L W=

x x

x

Here,

TP = Total Penalty Points

L = Total Length

W = Width of the Fabric

Classification, ≤ 40 points = A 41-60 points = B 61-80 points = C 80 Above = Reject

Size of Defect Penalty Point

F ≤ 3″ 1

3″ < F ≤ 6″ 2

6″ < F ≤ 9″ 3

F > 9″ 4

Any Hole 4

Assign 4 point to each consecutive linear yard in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9 inches.

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Chapter 4 Dyeing & Finishing Section

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Northern Fashion Ltd. has a state-of-the-art Dyeing & Finishing Section. The capacity of the Dyeing section has been rated annually about 21,00,000 kgs of dyed and finished fabric.

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Machinery Layout Plan of Dyeing & Finishing

WFBA

DCHMST

SLM

COMP2 COMP

1

D8

D10

D9

D2

D3

D4

D5

D7

D6

D1

FFBA

RLM

WSM

TD

H

ST7 ST6

RD

OFA QCS

FISP1 FISP2

FIS

P3

BTS

GF

BR

GF

BR

RF

BR

FTM

MTL FTL

CP

CP ST

CP ST

CP ST

CP D

E

N

W

S

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Description of Layout (Dyeing & Finishing)

Symbol Description

D1;D9;D10 Sample Dyeing Machine (Dilmenler; ATAC; Thies)

D2 – D8 HT Dyeing Machine (Dilmenler)

H Hydro Extractor

WSM Washing Machine (Babcock) [Under Installation]

FTM Fabric Turning Machine

SLM Slitting Machine

ST7 Stenter Machine (7 Chamber ) [ACC]

ST6 Stenter Machine (6 Chamber ) [Babcock] [Under Installation]

CPST Control Panel for Stenter

CPD Control Panel for Dyeing Machine

COMP1 Compacting Machine

COMP2 Compacting Machine With Rolling Device

RLM Rolling Machine

RD Relax Dryer [Santex]

TD Tumble Dryer

FISP (1-3) Fabric Inspection Machine [Sweden, Thailand]

OFA Office Area

FFBA Finish Fabric Area

WFBA Wet Fabric Area

DCHMST Dyes & Chemicals Store

BTS Batch Section

QCS Quality Control Section

GFBR Grey Fabrics Racks

RFBR Rolled Fabrics Racks

MTL Male Toilet

FTL Female Toilet

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Symbol Description

Exit Gate

Exit Way

Column

Chemical Tank

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Specification of Dyeing & Finishing Machinery:

SL No.

Machine Name Brand Name

Origin Function Capacity

01 Spectrophotometer Data Color USA Recipe Formulation & Correction

-

02 Ahiba Lab Dip M/C Data Color USA Lab Sample Dyeing 16 pots 03 Lab Dip Machine ATAC Turkey Lab sample Dyeing 12 & 15

pots 04 Crockmeter ATAC Turkey Rubbing Fastness test - 05 Wash Fastness M/C ATAC Turkey Wash Fastness test - 06 Magnetic Mixture

With Hot Plate ATAC Turkey Solution Mixing 4 pots

07 Tumble Dryer Seimens Germany Tumble Drying (for lab)

5 kg

08 Washing Machine Seimens Germany Washing (for lab) 5 kg 09 Soft Dryer Zip Australia Drying (for lab) - 10 HT Sample Dyeing

M/C ATAC Turkey Sample Dyeing 5-10 Kg

11 HT Sample Dyeing M/C

Thies Germany Sample Dyeing 30-50 Kg

12 HT Sample Dying M/C

Dilmenlar Turkey Sample Dyeing 25Kg

13 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 50 Kg 14 HT Dyeing Machine Fongs China Dyeing 80-100Kg 45 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 175Kg 16 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 525 Kg 17 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 700 Kg 18 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 1050 Kg 19 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 1400 Kg 20 Rope opening, Slitting,

Dewatering M/C Bianco Italy To open rope, slitting

& dewatering -

21 Relax Dryer Santex Swtzerland Fabric drying - 22 Stenter (7 Chamber) ACC Turkey Heat setting, Drying,

GSM, Width check etc -

23 Stenter (6 chamber) Babcock Germany Heat setting, Drying, GSM, Width check etc

-

24 Open Width Compac-tor

Lafer Italy Control, width, GSM, Shrinkage, spirality etc

-

25 Fabric inspection M/c Greige Sweden Fabric Inspection - 26 Stretch Recovery M/c - Australia Recover the Fabric

Stretch -

27 Color Cabinet Verivide UK Color Matching, shade check

-

28 Multi Light Color cab-inet

- Australia Color Matching, shade check

-

29 Light fastness Testing M/c

- Australia Light Fastness Test -

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Raw Material for Dyeing & Finishing:

Mainly dyes, chemicals and grey fabrics are raw material for dyeing & finishing. Grey fabric is supplied from knitting section. Name of dyes & chemicals that is used in Northern Fashion Ltd. are given below-

Chemicals List:

Sl.No. Brand Name Supplier Name Types of Chemical 01 Acetic Acid M/S LATIFA Ent. 02 Common Salt M/S LATIFA Ent. 03 Glober Salt M/S LATIFA Ent. 04 Caustic Soda M/S LATIFA Ent. 05 Soda Ash M/S LATIFA Ent. 06 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) ASM Chemical 07 Proder Scpc/LF ASU Chemical Detergent 08 KAPPAQUEST-FE HI-TECHAUXI Sequester 09 KAPPATEX-PKS CHEM Peroxide Killer 10 KAPPAFIX-GG100 CHEM Fixing 11 KAPPASOF-BD CHEM Softener 12 KAPPASOFT-SM CHEM Silicon 13 KAPPAVON-LD-360 CHEM P.Levelling 14 STAGEN-B EIBE-INTER Stabilizer 15 MAXBRTTF-4BK EIB-INTER Brtner 16 FIBRILASE-HD2-160 CYT-RAX-CEH ENZYME 17 LEVELLING GSA LEVELLING 18 FINOSCOOR -OSP SCOURING 19 DENRAW NBP COLOR FUSION SOAPING 20 ALP-CLFAN COLOR FUSION WHITE SCOURING 21 PERAPRET-HVN BASF 22 MEROPAN-KP R.H CORPORA P. ACID 23 SARABID-OL R.H CORPORA P. LEVELLING 24 ANTI FOAB DPK 25 CIBAFIX-ECD 26 SOFTNER-POLYESTER 27 LUBRIMAX-TLF ANTICREASING 28 OXINDL-ALL LEVELLING 29 FASTASOL-RD FIXING 30 OXINDL-894 LEVELLING 31 WINSCOUR-RDC RSK 32 SARABIP-MIP R.H. CORPORA LEVELLING 33 ANTICRESAE-200 ELBE-INTER ANTICREASING 34 LEKOL-SN ELBE-INTER LEVELLING

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Dyes List:

S.L. No. Name of Dyes Supplier 1 Reactive Red 6Bl Color Fushion 2 Reactive Yellow 4GL Color Fushion 3 Reactive Orange Me 2RL Color Fushion 4 Reactive yellow AYl Color Fushion 5 Elbezol Orange F2R Total –GUA 6 Evazol Yellow 3RS Evershion 7 Evazol Brill Red 3BS Evershion 8 Evazol Black B Evershion 9 Evazol Black ED-R Evershion 10 Evazol T. Blue G Evershion 11 Evazol Blue RSPL Evershion 12 Evazol Yellow ED -2G Evershion 13 Evazol Yellow -LX Evershion 14 Evazol Red -LX Evershion 15 Evazol Blue -LX Evershion 16 Evazol Navy -LX Evershion 17 Evazol Red F3B Evershion 18 Evazol Orange F2 Evershion 19 Evazol Blue ED Evershion 20 Rema Yellow RR M.F. Enterprise 21 Rema Red RR M. F. Enterprise 22 Rema Orange RR M.F. Enterprise 23 Imcozine Red E3BF Total Quality Resources 24 Imcozine Yellow E3R Total Quality Resources 25 Imcozine Blue ENR Total Quality Resources 26 Imcozine N Blue E2G Total Quality Resources 27 Imcozine Orange E2R Total Quality Resources 28 Lartive Red MRL MYL Enterprise 29 Lartive Yellow MYL MYL Enterprise 30 Lartive Blue MBL MYL Enterprise 31 Bezaltive Red VBN R.H. Corporation 32 Bezaltive Yellow V2R R.H. Corporation 33 Bezaltive Blue V2B R.H. Corporation 34 Bezaltive Orange V3R R.H. Corporation 35 Bezaltive T.Blue VG R.H. Corporation 36 Bezaltive Blue v RSP R.H. Corporation 37 Everzol Yellow ED Evershine 38 Everzol Navy ED Evershine 39 Everzol Red-LF-2B Evershine 40 Everzol Red ED 3B Evershine 41 Everzol yellow –ED R Evershine 42 Rema Blue RR M.F. Enterprise

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Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:

The things which influence the effective coloration of textile materials with reactive dye are

called as parameters of dyeing. These include –Temperature, Time, Liquor ratio, pH of the

bath etc. A brief description about them is given below-

Effects of Temperature:

Temperature of the dye bath plays vital role for dyeing. Rise in temperature has a large effect

on an increase in the diffusion rate of dyes into fabrics. Increasing of temperature increases

the rate of dyeing & of the dye migration. Higher dyeing temperature ensures the good leve-

ling & better penetration of dye in to the fibers. But the temperature depends on the types of

dyes adapted in the dye bath. For Example- in case of hot brand dyestuff the dosing tempera-

ture of dye is 80ºC and for cold brand dye temperature is kept 60ºC.

Effects of pH:

In the case of most popular fiber reactive dyes, a high PH actually activates the cellulose (cot-

ton) fiber, forming a cellulosate anion, which can then attack the dye molecule, leading to a

reaction that produces a strong, permanent covalent bond. Without a high pH, the dye will not

fix permanently to the cellulose fiber. For this reason Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3) [Some

time mixed alkali such as (NaOH + Na2CO3)] is used for no other reason than to increase the

PH of the dye reaction, so that the fiber will react with the dye. Basically during the color ad-

dition, the PH of the bath remains at near about 6, but after adding alkali it goes rise to pH

11.4 & this is the critical stage in which the dye molecules fix up with the fiber.

Effects of Material: Liquor Ratio (M : L):

Dye bath exhaustion increases with the decreasing of liquor ratio. Dyeing at low liquor ratio

decreases the amount of waste dyes & chemicals in the effluent. Because higher the liquor

ratio greater the amount of g/l of chemicals which increases the volume of effluent. To get rid

from this problem Then Air flow Dyeing machine is getting popular in our country which can

dyeing at 1:3 Materials: Liquor ratio. But in case of Thies Jet Dyeing machine it can possible

up to 1: 5 Materials: liquor ratio.

Effects of Time:

The time for dyeing also the vital one. A specific Time adjusted with the temperature, very

much needed for better dyeing. For this reason color dosing takes place in 20 minutes (may

vary process to process) & Specific run time is set for dyeing.

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Shrinkage:

A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected

to specified condition is known shrinkage.

Spirality:

If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or

left spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem, especially in the apparel in-

dustry.

Dyeing Calculation:

g / Total liquorRequired chemical

Stock Soluation % 1000

l ×=×

Required Dye Material weight Shade %= ×

Conversion of % to gm/l:

X 10X% = { }gm /

Liquor ratio (only L value)l

×

Conversion of gm/l to %:

X Liquor ratio (only L value)X gm / = { }%

Liquor ratio (only L value)l

×

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Dyeing Laboratory

Laboratory:

Lab is the most important section of a dying industry. Higher precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is sent to the buyer. As per requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab considering the economical aspect.

The Main Objectives of a Textile Dyeing Laboratory:

� To develop standard operating procedures (SOP) for all the products which are to be processed in a dye house.

� Dyestuffs evaluation. � Color matching together with process and product development. � To provide training ground for production and laboratory technicians. � Process optimization and cost reduction through process modifications and develop-

ing or testing newer techniques and products. � In process checks of important quality parameters affecting the quality, efficiency,

cost etc and monitoring. � Quality control of all raw materials consumed and also all processed material in terms

of color and fastness.

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Machinery Layout Plan of Dyeing Lab

18

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

12 13 14 15

16

19

20

21

22

17

11

23

24

25

25

25

N

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Description of Layout (Dyeing Lab)

Symbol Description

1 Assistant General Manager Office

2 Spectrophotometer Room

3 Spectrophotometer

4 Dark Room

5 Wash Fastness Tester

6 Auto Lab Dispenser

7 Tumble Dryer

8 Lab Dyeing Machine (ATAC)

9 Light Box

10 Yarn Testing Machine

11 Basin

12 Shelf for Chemicals

13 Sample Fabric Area

14 Water Heater

15 Auto Mixer

16 Dryer

17 Table for Solution Preparation

18 Desk for Lab Incharge

19 Dryer

20 Lab Dyeing Machine (ATAC)

21 Lab Dyeing Machine (datacolor)

22 Stress Recovery Tester

23 Desk for Quality Control Manager

24 Desk for Production Officer

25 Shelf for documents

Rubbing Tester

Exist Gate

GSM Cutter

Light Fastness Tester

Electric Balance

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Flow Chart for Lab Dip Development:

Merchandiser sent Swatch or Color Code

Swatch Received by lab Incharge

Detecting the shade using either Spectropho-tometer or Pantone book

Recipe formulation (3-4 recipes closer to each other)

Sample Dyeing

Match the Sample with Shade

Sent Swatch for Buyer Approval

If OK, Go for Bulk Production

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Process Flow for Dyeing & Finishing:

Merchandiser sent Swatch or Color Code to the Lab Incharge

Lab Incharge Developed at least 3 Lab Dip (A, B & C)

Information Sent to Bulk

Lab Dip Sent for Buyer Approval

If not OK Buyer Approved A or B or C

Batching for Bulk Production

Sample Dyeing & Finishing with Quality Control

Stentering

Scouring & Bleaching

Dyeing

Rope Opening, Slitting and Dewatering

Compacting

Storing the Finished Fabric

Quality Inspection

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Grey Fabric Store & Batch Section:

In Northern Fashion Ltd. Grey fabric store and Batch section works along with. Where the fabrics are arranged by type of fabrics & buyer order after completing grey fabric inspection.

Fabrics are separated by roll or lot. Every face of lot or rolls contains-

� Fabric types � Yarn count � Fabric GSM � Fabric faults name � Lot number � Roll number

This section maintains a card for every lot which contains the information about fabrics.

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Batch section is a vital section for fabric dyeing. Batching is a separation for fabrics roll ac-cording to dyeing machine. Normally its separation depends of the number of nozzle. This section is always tried to give same weight of fabrics for every nozzle.

Function of Batch Section:

To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.

Turn the gray fabric if require.

Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:

- Order sheet (Received from buyer)

- Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)

- Machine capacity.

- Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)

- Fabric dia. and rope length

- Emergency order.

- Fabric construction (single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)

To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

To keep record.

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Proper Batching Criteria:

• To try same rope length for each nozzle.

• To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.

• To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.

• To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.

Turning machine

This tubular turning machine is for turning tubular knit fabric before dyeing and drying after. As knit fabric material is handled by the air force, there is no fear of damage during opera-tion.

Speciation:

� Made of stainless steel, the main pipe can stand up permanently without rusting. � Operation is easy and safe. � Air flow initiation or termination is instantly effected by the press of the ON or OFF

push-button, or the moment the material fabric reaches the eject roller. � There is no lingering air consumption. � Air flow direction is designed to automatically switch upon alteration of the position

of the curved pipe, as they are interlocked with each other.

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Dyeing Machine:

DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS):

HT Jumbo is a winch dyeing machine. HT Jumbo is designed and manufactured with the lat-est high technology for dyeing any kind of open width fabric made of natural, synthetic and their blends such as open width knitted cotton and cotton lycra, viscouse and viscouse lycra and all kind of towell fabric and bathmad etc.

DMS 11 JUMBO (RDS) presents the latest technical achievement on dyeing both knitted and woven fabrics to produce high quality level materials at a compatible cost.

DMS 11 HT JUMBO is able to process fabrics in the range from 70 g/m up to 2300 g/m in weight by choosing the right nozzle say. Machine is available in various capacities starting from 25 Kg upto 2000 Kg on both high and low temperature design. Machine`s body and all wetted parts made of highly corrosion resisted stainless steel AISI 316 L, in accordance with American ASME and European (CE) norms.

DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS)

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Schematic Diagram of DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS)

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Basic Principle of DMS 11 HT Jumbo Dyeing Machine:

� The basic principle of DMS 11 HT dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length, which are mostly immersed in the liquor in the bath.

� The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dye bath. At the front of the machine, above the top of the dye liquor, is a smaller reel, which is called jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remains freewheeling along with fabric rope.

� At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye bath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion.

� From the dropped location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winch wheel.

� The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M: L as compared with other dyeing machines.

� The process is conducted with very little tension.

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Dyeing Machine:

Work should be done before running machine.

1. Clean the machine.

2. Clean additional tank & filter.

3. Switch ON the main switch.

4. Open the steam, water & air bulb.

5. Run the machine.

6. Check the pneumatic bulb is it work properly

7. Have any bad sound in machine? Check it.

8. Start the production process

9. Close the all bulb after ending the process.

10. Switch OFF Emergency switch.

11. OFF the main power

12. Don’t touch electric switch on wet hand.

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Machine Operating Rules & Regulation for Dyeing Machine:

1. Machine should be kept always clean.

2. Before opening machine door or reel following point should be considered-

a. Machine pressure should be at 0.

b. Temperature should be below at 80ºC

c. Water level should be kept under machine door.

3. Electric component should be safe from water during machine cleaning.

4. After cleaning machine filter dust should be kept in specific drum.

5. If any problem is observed in dyeing machine, the information should be sent to maintenance department as soon as possible. Operator must not be accessed electric control panel in any condition.

6. After ending process and before going operator must be clean the machine.

7. If it is needed that machine will be stopped for few days, machine should be kept with filling water upto midlevel.

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Rope Opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine:

Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended brake Wales lime on length wise direction prior to stenter processing.

Bianco Rope opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine

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Machine Function:

Open the fabric from the rope form.

Reduce the water content

To slit the fabric from tube form

Apply overfeed to give some compaction.

Width-wise stretch the fabric.

Plait the fabric

Schematic Diagram of Rope opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine

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Function of Machine Parts:

� J-Box: Squeeze the fabric to reduce the water contains. Water reducing percentage depends on J-Box pressure.

� Detwister: By the detwister rope formed fabric become untwists form. (due to action of sensor)

� Hand Wheel: It is manual and used for guiding the rotary blade.

� Turn Wheel: It controls the fabric rotation

� Rotary Blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line.

� Ring: To help cutting.

� Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting

� Plaiter: To plait the fabric.

� Sensor: Sense for cutting through break wales line.

Basic Operation Principle:

The bianco tensionless tubular fabric slitting and opening lines are used after the wash process or the dyeing station.

1. The fabric, placed in a basket in rope form.

2. It is made to pass through the squeezing unit where most of the impregnation liquid is extracted.

3. Then it enters the detwister, which eliminates the tension of the rope and is prepared for the slitting and spreading processes.

4. The container is placed on a platform whose rotation, synchronized with the action of the detwister, untwists the rope preceding the entrance to the detwister.

5. The latter is placed at the top of the structure, for optimal distance from the automatic slitter, so as to enhance the effectiveness of rope detwisting and spreading.

6. Then the untwist form fabric is transferred to the basket by means of motorized belts and then it moves on towards the slitter without stresses that would can be widened upto a diameter of 80 cm.

7. The cutting line can be controlled by means of basket rotation.

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8. Pick the fabric leaving the tensionless basket and with the aid of a beater, plaits it on to the conveyor belt making for enhanced relaxation of the fabric.

9. From conveyor belt fabric is passed through dogal centering roller (It constitutes a compacata fabric centering system, with faster centering action and enhanced efficacy compared to traditional centering devices.)

10. The open with fabric is passed through squeezing system to extract the greatest possi-ble quantity of impregnation liquid from the fabric, by squeezing it between two rub-ber coated rollers. (It structure is highly compact and sturdy, and it can be made either of iron or of stainless steel).

11. After squeezing the fabric it go to the plaiter to plait on a trolley.

Checking Parameter:

Cutting Line Check: Operator checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blade cut fabric through wales line or not.

Bow and Slant Check: Operator checks bow and slant at delivery side.

Faults Check: As mentioned earlier.

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Stenter Machine:

ACC Stenter Machine

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In ACC Stenter knitted and woven fabrics used in finishing and shrinkage of the stabilities that world-class, quality and technological stenter machine. Argonomik operating platform, the operator's use of the machine is designed to provide the most ideal way. All command and control of the machine belongs to the ACC software platfomda bulunmaktadır.Bütün Turkish software program "touch-screen" screen contains the following details about the con-trol over this.

Basic Working Principal of Stenter:

The stenter line has units: 2 padders, 1 weft straightener, 1 tenter and drying chambers. There are also steaming, selvedge degumming and curing arrangement. At least padder is simply wash with water. The squeeze pressure normally 5 bars. In two padder the fabric is treated with softener. The fabric is passed through tenter. There are two steams along fabric width that apply steam from below fabric. There are gumming unit before drying chamber. In sten-ter, fabric enters in drying chambers by gripping with chain pin and with over feed/ under feed that is with more controlled conditions. The drying chamber has 7 units. Generally tem-perature kept about 150 – 200 ºC. The fabric comes out form chamber by tenter chains grip-ping with pins. Before delivery the fabric is removed from the tenter chains by unpinning rollers and then the cutting units cut the additional fabric from the gummed sides. Now at de-livery side there is an antistatic arrangement to remove static electricity from heated fabric.

Function of Stenter:

� Apply chemical and softener

� To dart set the T/C fabric

� Drying of fabric

� To control width

� Curing of fabric

� Apply pigment dyeing

� To control GSM

� To control shrinkage

� To decrease spirality

� To decrease bowing effect

� Surface coating for teflon finish

� Apply soil release chemical finish

� Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric

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Main Parts of Stenter:

1. Feed Zone:

- Centering device

2. Chemical Padding Zone:

- Squeezing roller

- Chemical tray

3. Bowing Control Zone:

- Bowing roller (Rubber rollers, number of roller 2)

- Sensor (no of sensor 6)

- Uncurling roller

4. Chin Entry Zone:

- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)

- Sensor (both side of the chain entry)

- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller 4)

- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under chain entry.

5. Drying Zone (gas burner 10) Cooling Zone.

6. Cooling Zone

7. Delivery Zone

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Stenter Machine:

Work should be done before running machine.

1. Clean the machine (inner & outer side.)

2. Switch ON the main switch.

3. ON the Gas & Air line bulb.

4. Have any bad sound in machine? Check it.

5. Check conveyor belt, it is ok or not.

6. Run the machine.

7. After raising temperature at a specific state start running the fabric

8. Close the all bulb after ending the operation.

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9. Cool the machine at running state by running blower at least for one hour.

10. Switch OFF Emergency switch.

11. OFF the main power

12. Don’t touch, machine & machine switch on wet hand or foot.

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Compacting Machine:

Lafer Compacting Machine

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Function:

� To control shrinkage

� To control width

� To control GSM

� To smooth fabric

� Heat setting of fabric for lycra

Checking Parameter:

1. Shade Check: In delivery side operator checks the shade of fabric with customer ap-proved swatch.

2. With Check: Operator measures fabric width by using measuring tape and compared with required width.

3. Wight Check: Operator checks the weight by using GSM cutter and electronic bal-ance & compares with the required finished width.

4. Fault Check: As mentioned before

5. Design & Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting at delivery side.

6. Edge line checking: check two edges of fabric at delivery side.

Table: Treatment Condition According to the Type of Material

Fibre Composition Cylinder Temp. ( ºC) Steam Quantity Cotton 100% 130-150 High Cotton –Acrylic 80-90 Medium Cotton-Wool 80-110 Medium Wool-Cotton-Polyamide 80-110 Medium Viscose-Cotton 90-130 Low Viscose-Wool 90-110 Low

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FUNCTIONAL SELECTION LEGEND 1 – Fabric Brake 13 – Felt Centering Rollers 2 – Fabric Feeding roller 14 – Felt Tensioning Rollers 3 – Beater 15 – Heated Roller 4 – Safety Photocell indicating Lack

of Fabric 16 – Felt Drawing Rollers Covered with Rubber

5 – Fabric Conveyor Belt 17 – Rollers with Loading Cell for automatic Fabric Tension Control

6 – Photocell Loop Control 18 – Exit Belt Drawing Roller 7 – Operator Platform 19 – Fabric Conveyor Belt 8 – Re – directing Roller 20 – Movable Arms 9 – Automatic Spreader Mod. AL-

BATROS 21 – Fabric Conveyance Hopper

10 – Steaming Chamber 22 – Plaiting Roller 11 – Motorized Adjustable Rollers 23 – Fold Pressing Device 12 – Felt Re – directing Adjustable

Rollers 24 – Plaiting Platform

OPTION: A – Ring Spreader for Tubular Fabric C – Cardboard Positioning Device

B – Cooling Chamber at Exit D – Cutting Device

Schematic Diagram of Compactor

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Technical Description of the Basic Compacting Machine:

The machine include the following units

A) Support Structure:

It consists of sturdy body sides made of painted steel, supporting the cylinders, the mechanical part and the plant system; they are connected by means of longitudinal and transversal cross-section. The body sides are provided with special safety locks.

B) Inlet Tightener:

The inlet tightner is designed to drag the fabric to the machine with an adequate ten-sion. Its effect can be varied by turning the hand wheel provided.

C) Fabric Draw Roller:

The draw rollers receive their movement from a variable speed motor. They deter-mine the speed of fabric.

- The rollers are normally covered with rubber and it is most important that the sur-face of the covering is always in good condition so ass to avoide slipping of the fabric. Should this not be so then it is necessary to replace the covering.

- The processing of fabrics treated with chemical against might involve a rapid de-terioration of the drag rolls coating.

D) Idle Cylinders:

The idle cylinders are designed to change the route of the fabric to convey it in the right position for subsequent working.

E) Dancing Roller Synchroniser

The dancing roller is constituted by a cylinder mounted on oscillating arm, connected to a rheostat for the synchronisation of the various group.

F) Inlet fabric Guide

It consists of shoulders supporting a couple of adjustable spreader rollers operated by an independent motor, and a pneumatically operated fabric centering unit with move-able staves, controlled by border guard photocells.

G) Steaming Tank

It consist of no. 1 steam delivery chamber on the fabric, made of inox steel and com-plete with metering valve and on-off solenoid valve.

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H) Compacting Units

They are the real compacting units. Each unit consists of:

- A steam heated cylinder, diameter 500 mm., made of chromium plated and ground steel; it is complete with a rotary joint for steam feeding, a thermocouple feeler to feel the temperature, and an effective system for the condensate drainage. The cy-linder temperature can be adjusted with the utmost (+/- 2˚C) directly from the keyboard placed on the control board, and is shown on the display.

- A thick Nomex – Polyester compacting felt. The double action felt centering de-vice ensures perfect felt alignment during running. The computer controlled felt control mechanisms automatically releases felt tension after a machine stop.

- An adjustable position counter-roller for the fabric shrinkage control during inlet in the compacting group.

- An inlet element in a special non-adherent fibre (shoe) equipped with a device for adjusting both angle of incidence and insertion length.

I) Spreader Roller

It is a spreader roller, for the selvedge unwinding and the inlet of the fabric perfectly spread in the machine.

J) Scroll Roll Unit

The adjustable spreading scrolls at entry are used for open width knits and for all fa-brics that have lengthwise creases. Consists of two adjustable spiral scroll roll driven by an independent motor.

K) Device for Fabric Tension Check

It consists of a cylinder combined with a special load cell sensor. It allows synchro-nizing the speed between the upper and lower compacting unit, and adjusting the fa-bric tension between them with the utmost precision. The adjustment is performed di-rectly from the keyboard placed on the control board and is shown on the display.

L) Cooling Unit

It consists of a steel structure including a conveyer belt, the drag and tension cylinders

Of the latter, a suction chamber with a net plane for a perfect distribution of the cool-ing air. The chamber is connected to a high- efficiency centrifugal electric fan.

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M) Antistatic Bars.

The bars which are usually mounted on the folding unit arms, will eliminate the elec-trostatic changes of the fabric.

N) Checking Table:

The inspection table is composed by a steel structure that supports a table that accom-panies the fabric falling from the cooling band. In this phase the operator placed in the rolling up unit zone can carry out a check on the quality of the worked fabric and no-tice possible defects.

O) Fabric Storage Chute for the System Non-Stop:

It consists of a j-plate for the fabric storage during the phase of roll change. It allows removing the finished roll, and starting a new roll without stopping the system.

P) Rolling Unit

It consists of a bearing structure and a moveable trolley which supports the rolling cy-linders. The trolley sides on two rails in order to allow the perfect alignment of a sel-vedge on the roll of fabric. The movement is automatically controlled and is operated by an electromechanical actuator. The reading of the selvedge border is performed by two photocells, whose position can be adjusted by means of a hand wheel. The rolling cylinders are covered with vulcanized rubber for a perfect adhesion. The roll compac-tedness can be adjusted by a pneumatically operated device. The rolling unit is com-plete with a spreader roller, operated by an independent motor, placed immediately before the rolling cylinders.

Q) Steam System

It is installed in the machine. It includes a filter, an on-off valve, a pressure gauge for displaying the line pressure and a condensate separator. It is provided with a series of servo-operated solenoid valves to feed the different elements of the machine and wit automatic steam traps complete with by-pass for manual drainage.

R) Controls

The main controls are located on the left side at the machine entry; they include a “Touch Screen” interface and a set of buttons. The auxiliary controls are placed on the panel at the machine exit. The emergency stop buttons are located on the sides of the machine.

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S) Electric Board

The electric board is installed in the machine. It includes the electromechanical instal-lation, electronic cards, a set of inverters and the PLC controlling the machine.

It is also equipped with protection devices, and cooling devices. All operation func-tion is shown in the “Touch Screen” on the main control board.

The machine is equipped with a direct grounding of all the electric components and of the metal frame.

The preventive measures to ensure immunity in the presence of electromagnetic dis-turbances have been adopted, and have been taken the necessary precautions to atte-nuate the disturbances of an electromagnetic nature produced by the electric/ electron-ic system of the machine

T) Pneumatic System

It includes an on-off valve, a filter-lubrication unit, a pressure regulator and a series of solenoid valves for the operation of the pneumatic actuators.

Technical Description of the Options

A) Conveyor Belt and Folding Unit

It consists of a pressure bent steel structure, including a polyester conveyer belt to convey the fabric without any tension from the cooling unit till the folding unit with rocking arms. The belt is controlled by a drag cylinder.

B) Meter-Counter

This device can be installed in the outlet unit, to check the length in meters of the fa-bric worked.

C) Antisquashing and Antiglossy Device

This is a special device, patented by Lafer, which prevents the undesired glossy effect on acrylic fibres on the fabric at the compacting unit outlet. The system is complete with a steaming device, used to freshen up the pile and assembled in the cooling belt, just before the unit.

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Troubleshoot:

Table: Troubleshoot of compacting

Problem Possible Cause Possible Solutions The machine does not start pressing start but-ton.

Emergency enabled. See the causes of the alarm in the in-terface.

Remove the causes of the press the << Restart>> push-button

Selvedge rolled up Spreader roller unit without incidence on the fabric.

By means of the special hand wheel, adjust the unit incidence.

Fabric not centered in the machine inlet.

Stave centering unit not work-ing.

Check the pressure of compressed air feeding. Check if the cylinder is turning and the staves are sliding on the sup-ports. Check the start of wear of the rub-ber stave. Check the operation of the fabric border reading photocells.

Presence of drops on the fabric

Steaming tanks forming con-densate.

Check the steam line pressure. Check the efficiency of the instal-lation and of the steam traps. Check that the tank heating line is efficient and not clogged.

Longitudinal lines on the fabric

Inlet shoes worn out Cut the end worn out in a clear-cut and continuous way.

Transversal lines all over the width

Excessive angle of inlet shoes Decrease the angle by means of the graduated hand wheel.

Felt right hand or left hand side-slip

Pneumatic cylinders broken down

Check the compressed air line pressure.

Felt belt taper Move the support of the belt tigh-tening pneumatic cylinder

Side-slip control device bro-ken down

Check whether the unit is loose or whether the feeler rod is correctly positioned

Compacting loss

Excessive tension set on the load cell

Decreased the valve through the interface.

Load cell or control electronic card damaged

Replace the load cell or the elec-tronic card.

Too much tension on the syn-chronizing dandy rollers

Check the dandy roller balance weight

Cylinder temperature Check the valves or the steam traps.

Folds spread after the 2nd heated cylinder

Not enough tension on the load cell

Adjust the valve through the inter-face.

Excessive shrinkage in width at the outlet

Excessive inlet steam Dose the steam to the sprayer by means of the hand wheel

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Problem Possible Cause Possible Solutions Fabric not cooled at the outlet

Electric fan non-suction Check the rotation of the fan motor

Cooling belt wearing out in the borders

Excessive tension between the belt cylinders

Loosen the tension by adjusting the tightener slide.

Roll not centered at the outlet

Outlet photocell centering unit broken down.

Check the operation of the fabric border reading photocells

Too much or not enough compact roll at the outlet

Low or high tension in the clutch unit of the rolling cy-linders

Operate on the regulator placed on door on the box side.

Machine Operating Rules & Regulation for Compacting Machine:

1. Machine should be kept always clean.

2. Knot & very much course stitch containing fabrics should not be feed to the machine.

3. Machine should not be stopped until the temperature decrease at 65ºC

4. Teflon should be cleaned minimum two times in a day.

5. Load value of load cell should be check.

6. Machine inlet steam should be between 4 – 6 bars.

7. Electric component should be safe from water during machine cleaning.

8. If any problem is observed in dyeing machine, the information should be sent to maintenance department as soon as possible. Operator must not be accessed electric control panel in any condition.

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Batch Flow-up History

There are three batches dyeing recipe & dyeing program are given below-

Order sheet:

There are summary of three order given below-

All fabrics of an order were dyed under same recipe, same program & same machine setting. Which order was dyed under which recipe and program, are showing below in a table

Recipe & dyeing program history .

Buyer Order No. Recipe Name Dyeing Program Name

Dunnes 1978 AT Recipe – 1 Program – 1

Dunnes 2006 AT Recipe – 2 Program – 2

Wool Worth 1980 AT Recipe – 3 Program – 3

Details of these recipe and program are given below:-

S.L. No.

Buyer Order/ Job No.

Fabric Description

Composition Color/ Code

Dia. Fabric Quantity

(kg) Cut able (Inch.)

Finish (Inch.)

1 Dunnes 1978 AT Pique 200 GSM

95% Cotton + 5% Elastane

Aqua 72 74 863

2 Dunnes 2006 AT Single Jersey 180 GSM


Chocolate 73 75 6479

3 Wool Worth

1980 AT Single Jersey 200 GSM


Black 60 62 1730

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Table: Dyeing recipe for aqua color dyeing (Buyer: Dunnes)

Recipe – 1 (for Aqua Color Dyeing) Buyer Name Dunnes Order No. 1978 AT Fabric Type Elastane Pk

Color Aqua M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 863 kg Total Liquor 6904 Liter

S.L.

No.

Name of Dyes & Chemicals Chemical Type Amount

(g/l or %)

Total Amount

(kg)

Pre -Treatment 1 Proder SCPC/LF Wetting Agent +

Detergent 1.0 g/l 6.90

2 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90 3 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90 4 Stagen-B Stabilizer 0.50 g/l 3.45 5 Caustic Soda (NaOH) Alkali 1.0 g/l 6.90 6 Soda Ash Alkali 3.0 g/l 20.71 7 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) Bleaching Agent 4.0 g/l 27.62

8 Kappatex- PKS Per Oxide Clearer 0.40 g/l 2.76

9 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer,

Ph Controller 0.80 g/l 5.52

10 Fibrilase-HD2-160 Enzyme 0.30 g/l 2.1 Dyeing 11 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.086 % 0.74

12 Oxindl-All Leveling Agent 2.0 g/l 13.81 13 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90 14 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90

15 Everzol Yellow ED 2g Dye 0.02 % 0.173 16 Everzol Turkish Blue G Dye 0.24% 2.07

17 Gluber Salt Electrolyte 11 g/l 75.94 18 Soda Ash Alkali 6 g/l 41.42 After Treatment 19 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 0.80 g/l 5.52 20 Winscour-RDC Soaping Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90 21 Kappafix - GG 100 Fixing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90

22 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0 % 8.63

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Table: Dyeing recipe for chocolate color dyeing (Buyer: Dunnes)

Recipe – 2 (for Chocolate Color Dyeing)

Buyer Name Dunnes Order No. 2006 AT Fabric Type Elastane S/J

Color Chocolate M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 837 kg Total Liquor 6696 Liter

S.L.

No.


(g/l or %)

Total Amount

(kg)

Pre -Treatment 1 Proder SCPC/LF Wetting Agent +


2 Soda Ash Alkali 1.0 g/l 6.7 3 Hydrose Reducing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7

4 Proder SCPC/LF Wetting Agent +


5 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.50 g/l 10.04 6 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.50 g/l 10.04 7 Stagen-B Stabilizer 0.50 g/l 3.35 8 Caustic Soda (NaOH) Alkali 1.0 g/l 6.7 9 Soda Ash Alkali 3.0 g/l 20.09 10 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) Bleaching Agent 4.0 g/l 26.78

11 Kappatex- PKS Per Oxide Clearer 0.30 g/l 2.01 12 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer,


13 Fibrilase-HD2-160 Enzyme 0.60 g/l 4.02 Dyeing 14 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.095 % 0.795 15 Oxindl-All Leveling Agent 1.069 g/l 7.16 16 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.50 g/l 10.04 17 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.50 g/l 10.04

18 Everzol Yellow EDR Dye 2.8 % 23.44 19 Everzol Red ED 3D Dye 1.2% 10.04 20 -9% Everzol Navy ED Dye 1.4% 10.67

21 Gluber Salt Electrolyte 37 g/l 247.75 22 Soda Ash Alkali 18 g/l 120.53 After Treatment 23 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 1.0 g/l 6.7 24 Winscour-RDC Soaping Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7 25 Kappafix - GG 100 Fixing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7 26 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0 % 8.37

Topping Recipe Pre – Treatment 27 Winscour-RDC Soaping Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7

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28 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 0.60 g/l 4.02 Dyeing 29 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.095% 0.795 30 Oxindl-All Leveling Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7 31 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7 32 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7

33 Everzol Yellow EDR Dye 2.8% 23.44 34 Everzol Red ED 3D Dye 1.2% 10.04 35 -9% Everzol Navy ED Dye 1.4% 10.67

36 Gluber Salt Electrolyte 37 g/l 247.75 37 Soda Ash Alkali 18 g/l 120.53 After Treatment 38 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 0.60 g/l 4.02 39 Winscour-RDC Soaping Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7 40 Kappafix - GG 100 Fixing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7

41 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0% 8.37

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Table: Dyeing recipe for black color dyeing (Buyer: Wool Worth)

Recipe – 3 (for Black Color Dyeing) Buyer Name Wool Worth Order No. 1980 AT Fabric Type Elastane S/J

Color Black M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 1051 kg Total Liquor 8400 Liter

S.L.

No.


(g/l or %)

Total Amount

(kg)

Pre -Treatment 1 Finoscoor -OSP Soaping Agent 1.50 g/l 16.0

2 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer,


3 Fibrilase-HD2-160 Enzyme 0.40 g/l 3.30 Dyeing 4 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.14 % 1.40

5 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.0 g/l 8.40 6 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.0 g/l 8.40

7 -5% Everzol Black EDR Dye 4.8 % 47.925 8 +5% Everzol Red 3BS Dye 0.36 % 3.954 9 Everzol Yellow 3RS Dye 1.6 % 16.774

10 Gluber Salt Electrolyte 50 g/l 400.00 11 Soda Ash Alkali 20 g/l 168.00 After Treatment 12 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 1.0 g/l 8.40 13 Finoscoor -OSP Soaping Agent 2.5 g/l 26.00 14 Kappafix - GG 100 Fixing Agent 1.0 g/l 8.40

15 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0 % 8.00

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Dyeing Program:

Program – 1 (for Aqua Color Dyeing)

Fabric loading and fill water

Drain

Fill water (according to liquor ratio)

Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and wetting agent, anti-creasing agent, stabilizer, sequestering agent are added by

inject dosing.

NaOH & Soda ash is added by linear dosing

Temperature is raised at 70 ˚C

Per-Oxide is added by inject dosing

Temperature is raised at 110 ˚C and Run time 40 – 50 min.

Cooling at 90 ˚C

Sample Check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then run for next 10 min. & check sample again]

Rinse wash [3 – 4 times]

Drain

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Per-Oxide Clearer is added by inject

Temperature is raised at 90 ˚ C and Run time 10 min.


Drain

Fill water according to liquor ratio

Acetic Acid is added by inject at 50 ˚C and Run time 10 min

pH check [Range 4 – 4.5]

Enzyme is added by inject

Temperature is raised at 55 ˚C and Run time 60 min.

Sample check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then run for next 10 min. & check sample again]

Enzyme hot at 80 ˚C and Run time 10 min.


Drain

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pH check [Range 6.5 – 7]

Leveling, anti creasing & sequestering agent is added at 55 ˚C by inject and Run time 10 min.

Salt dosing at 80 ˚C during 10 min.

Run time 20 min.

Dye is added by linear dosing during 30 min.

Run time 20 min.

Temperature is decreased at 60 ˚C

Soda is added by progressive (3) dosing during 35 min.

Run time 10 min.

Sample check [Sample is checked in every 10 min. interval at same temperature. It less fixation take place of any color then temperature is increased that is suitable for fixation of that color]

Bath Drop if sample is ok

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Drain

Fill according to liquor ratio

Hot wash at 80 ˚C – 90 ˚C [If shade is darker then soaping agent may use to make the shade slight lighter]

Sample check [If ok then go for next step and if not ok then take necessary steps]

Hot wash for 10 min at 80 ˚C [no chemical is used]


Drain


Acetic Acid is added at 50 ˚C by inject and Run time 20 min.

Sample check


Fixing agent is added at 40 ˚C by linear dosing during 10 min.

Drain


Run time 20 min

Sample check

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Table: Machine Setting for aqua color dyeing

Parameter Setting Pump Speed (Load) 70% Pump Speed (Next all) 80% Winch Speed (Load) 100m/min Winch Speed (Next all) 220m/min Nozzle Speed (For all) 50%


Drain


Softener is added at 45 ˚C by inject

Run time 20 min.

Sample check (ok)

Unload



Scouring & Bleaching Curve

Color Dosing Curve

PCLF A/AM

SIFA EMG

110oC 3oC/ min, Rinse/Cooling-10 min

70oC

Rinse Time Drain

Scouring& Bleaching

PH Check (11.5)

40-50 min H2O2 add

55oC X5ʹ

A. Acid

55oC X45́

80oC

Acid & Enzyme Wash

PH=4.5 GSA EMG A/AM

Auxiliaries Dosing

Run Time

NaOH add at 70oC

50˚C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

5-10 min 7 min

40oC

90oC

10 min

PC

40oC

Rinse &Drain

2˚C/min

Sample Check

Enzyme Hot 40oC

Rinse &Drain

60˚C x 10 min

Leveling

Time (min)

Salt Addition

60o C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

80o C

10 min 20 min

80o C 80o C 80o C

60o C 60o C

40o C

Run time Color Dosing at pH 6.5 Run time Alkali Dosing Run time Rinse & Drain (4-5 times)

30 min 20 min

35 min 30-40 min

15 min

Bath Drop

If shade is not ok then take decision for toping or strip-ing

Time (min)



Washing Curve

Rinse & DrainSoaping

80˚C

40˚C

Rinse & Drain

80˚C

A/Acid Rinse & Drain

Fixing Dosing

15-20 min (Depend on Shade)

Hot wash Run Time Rinse

& Drain Softening

Unloading

40˚C

20 min

10 min

20 min

20 min Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

Time (min)

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Program – 2 (for Chocolate Color Dyeing)


Drain


Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and wetting agent, anti-creasing agent, stabilizer, sequestering agent are added by

inject dosing.

NaOH & Soda ash is added by linear dosing


Per-Oxide is added by inject dosing

Temperature is raised at 110 ˚C and Run time 40 – 50 min.

Cooling at 90 ˚C

Sample Check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then run for next 10 min. & check sample again]


Drain

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Per-Oxide Clearer is added by inject

Temperature is raised at 90 ˚ C and Run time 10 min.


Drain









Drain

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Bath Drop for toping (if sample is not ok)


Run time 10 min.

Sample check [Sample is checked in every 10 min. interval at same temperature. It less fixation take place of any color then temperature is increased that is suitable for fixation of that color]. After that if shade is not ok (light) then take decision for toping.





Run time 20 min.


Run time 20 min.



Unload

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Run time 20 min.


Run time 20 min.



Run time 10 min.



Fill water according to liquor ratio & Loading

Shade Check (if ok then go for next steps)

Temperature is raised at 80 ˚C & Soaping agent RDC is add-ed by inject & Run time 20-30 min. for lightening the shade. [Run time depends on how much lightening is required.]

Rinse wash (2-3 times) & Drain

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Drain


Hot wash at 80 ˚C – 90 ˚C [If shade is darker then soaping agent may use to make the shade slight lighter]




Drain



Sample check



Drain


Run time 20 min

Sample check

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Table: Machine Setting for chocolate color dyeing



Drain



Run time 20 min.

Sample check (ok)

Unload




Color Dosing Curve

PCLF A/AM

SIFA EMG

110oC 3oC/ min, Rinse/Cooling-10 min

70oC

Rinse Time Drain

Scouring& Bleaching

PH Check (11.5)

40-50 min H2O2 add

55oC X5ʹ

A. Acid

55oC X45ʹ

80oC

Acid & Enzyme Wash

PH=4.5 GSA EMG A/AM

Auxiliaries Dosing

Run Time

NaOH add at 70oC

50˚C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

5-10 min 7 min

40oC

90oC

10 min

PC

40oC

Rinse &Drain

2˚C/min

Sample Check

Enzyme Hot 40oC

Rinse &Drain

60˚C x 10 min

Leveling

Time (min)

Salt Addition

60o C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

80o C

10 min 20 min

80o C 80o C 80o C

60o C 60o C

40o C


30 min 20 min

35 min 30-40 min

15 min

Bath Drop


Time (min)



Washing Curve


80˚C

40˚C

Rinse & Drain

80˚C


Fixing Dosing



& Drain Softening

Unloading

40˚C

20 min

10 min

20 min

20 min Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

Time (min)

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Program – 3 (for Black Color Dyeing)


Drain


Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and soaping agent (OSP) is added by inject dosing.

Temperature is raised at 80 ˚C and Run time 20 min


Drain









Drain

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Run time 10 min.


Run time 20 min.


Run time 10 min.




Run time 10 min.

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Drain


Hot wash at 80 ˚C with soaping agent OSP & Run time 15-20 min. [Depend on shade]




Drain



Sample check



Drain


Run time 20 min

Sample check

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Table: Machine Setting for black color dyeing



Drain



Run time 20 min.

Sample check (ok)

Unload




Dye Dosing Curve:

GSA A/AM EMG

Leveling

55oC X60́ 55oC X10́

80oC Rinse Time Drain

Scouring& Bleaching

20 min

A. Acid

80oC

Acid & Enzyme Wash

PH=4.5

Auxiliaries Dosing

Run 50˚C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

10 min

2˚C/min

Sample Check

Enzyme Hot

Rinse &Drain

5-10

OSP

Time (min)


Salt Addition

50o C

Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

50o C

10 min 20 min

50o C 50o C 50o C 50o C

60o C

40o C


30 min 20 min 35 min 10 min

15 min

Bath Drop

55o C 30-40 min

Color Fixation

Time (min)



Washing Curve:


80˚C

40˚C

Rinse & Drain

80˚C


Fixing Dosing



& Drain Softening

Unloading

40˚C

20 min

10 min

20 min

20 min Tem

pe

ratu

re (˚C

)

Time (min)

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Shade Card:

Order wise shade achieved in different stage of processing are shown below in shade card-

Figure: Shade card for aqua color

Shade Card (Aqua Color)

Buyer: Dunnes Order No.: Color: Aqua 1978 AT

Grey Sample Bath Drop Sample

Stenter Sample Compacting Sample

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Figure: Shade card for chocolate color

Shade Card (Chocolate Color)

Buyer: Dunnes Order No.: Color: Chocolate 2006 AT

Not Available

Grey Sample Bath Drop 1 Sample

Light Sample Before Toping Bath Drop 2 (Toping) Sample


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Figure: Shade card for Blck color

Shade Card (Black Color)

Buyer: Wool Worth Order No.: Color: Black 1980 AT

Grey Sample Bath Drop Sample


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Rope Opening & Slitting:

All fabrics of all orders were processed with Rope Opening & Slitting Machine under same machine setting. Machine settings are given below:

Table: Machine setting for rope opening, slitting & Dewatering Machine

Parameter Setting J Box Padder Pressure 2 bar Machine Speed 48 Fabric Tension Speed 0 Padder pressure 3 Extraction 70%

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Stenter Processing:

During stenter finishing, fabrics of different orders were treated under different condition to go to the target. According to different orders the changes and machine settings during sten-tering are given below-

Table: Effect of stentering & stenter setting

Buyer / Order No. Parameter Machine Setting

Dunnes

1978 AT

Dia. (after): 77″

GSM (after): 167-168

Temp. : 160 ˚C Speed : 19 m/s Width Setting : 203 cm Upper Feed : 71% Lower Feed : 17% Pinning (R/L) : (18/18)% Blower (R/L) : (80/85)% Exhaust (1/2) : (70/70)% Padding Chem: Softener

Dunnes

2006 AT

Dia. (after): 80″

GSM (after): 160


Wool Worth

1980 AT

Dia. (after): 66-66.5″

GSM (after): 180-185


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Compactor Processing:

During compactor finishing, fabrics of different orders were treated under different condition to go to the target. According to different orders the changes and machine settings during compacting are given below-

Table Error! No text of specified style in document.-1: Effect of compacting & compactor setting

Buyer &

Order No.

Parameter Machine Setting

Dunnes 1978 AT

Dia (Before) : 77″ Dia (After) : 74″ GSM (Before) : 167-168 GSM (After) : 183-185 Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-6.3/-2)% Twisting : 1%

Compaction : 18% Fabric Speed :10 m/min Felt Tension : 0.8 kg Taker-in Tension : 0.8 kg Steam : 10 (Full)

Dunnes 2006 AT

Dia (Before) : 80″ Dia (After) : 76″ GSM (Before) : 160 GSM (After) : 173 Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-5.5/-2)% Twisting : 1.2%

Compaction : 16% Fabric Speed :10 m/min Felt Tension : 0.8 kg Taker-in Tension : 0.9 kg Steam : 10 (Full)

Wool Worth 1980 AT

Dia (Before) : 66″ Dia (After) : 64″ GSM (Before) : 180-185 GSM (After) : 192-193 Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-2.4/-2.9)% Twisting : 0.8%

Compaction : 10% Fabric Speed :17.8 m/min Felt Tension : 1.0 kg Taker-in Tension : 0.5 kg Steam : 10 (Full)

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Quality Assurance:

After the operation of open compactor, the fabric is send to Quality Assurance department for fabric inspection (4 point system) and physical testing lab for Justification of its quality whether it meets the requirements given by the buyers.

Order wise average inspection report and physical test result are given below-

Finish Fabric Inspection:

Table: Finish fabric inspection report (Contains average inspection data)

Finish Fabric Inspection Report Quality Assurance Department

Buyer & Order

Yarn Fabric Type

Finish Dia.

M/C

Qty (Yds)

Size of Fault (F) Total Penalty Point

Pt/100 sq yds & Grade

F ≤ 3″ 3″< F ≤ 6″ 6″<F≤ 9″ F > 9″ & Hole

Dunnes 1978 AT

34/1 20D

S/J, Elas-tane

74″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl5, C3, LO2, S4, OM3

0 0 0 17 (10) A

Dunnes 2006 AT

34/1 20D

S/J, Elas-tane

75″ 30″×28 G 62 Fl1, C2, S3, OM2

SET1 0 H1 11 (06) A

Wool Worth 1980 AT

30/1 20D

S/J, Elas-tane

62″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl3, LO1, S4, OM3

0 0 H1 12 (08) A

Penalty Points Legends: H = Hole Fl = Fly C = Contamination S = Slub St = Stripe LO = Lycra Out OM = Oil Mark VM = Vertical Mark K = Knot NB = Needle Breakage LM = Loop Miss SET = Setup

Four Points System: Acceptance Calculation: Penalty Point/100 sq. yards

TP 36 100

L W=

x x

x

Here, TP = Total Penalty Points L = Total Length W = Width of the Fabric Classification,

≤ 40 points = A 41-60 points = B 61-80 points = C 80 Above = Reject

Size of Defect Penalty Point

F ≤ 3″ 1

3″ < F ≤ 6″ 2

6″< F ≤ 9″ 3

F > 9″ 4

Any Hole 4

Assign 4 point to each consecutive linear yard in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9 inches.

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Physical Test Report:

Table: Physical test report for aqua color (Buyer: Dunnes)

Buyer Name: Dunnes Order No.: 1978 AT Serial No.

Name of the Tests Test Result Buyer Requirements Remarks

01 Dimensional Stability (shrinkage) L W Length wise-+ 5 % Width wise- + 5 %

ok -6.3% -2%

02 Dimensional Stability (Spirality) 1 % Spirality up to 5 % acceptable ok 03 Color fastness to wash 4 – 5 Range 4 to 5 ok 04 Color fastness to Rubbing Dry Wet Dry range 4 to 5

Wet range 3 to 5 ok

4-5 3

Table: Physical test report for chocolate color (Buyer: Dunnes)

Buyer Name: Dunnes Order No.: 2006AT Serial No.



ok -5% -2%

02 Dimensional Stability (Spirality) 1.2 % Spirality up to 5 % acceptable ok 03 Color fastness to wash 4 – 5 Range 4 to 5 ok 04 Color fastness to Rubbing Dry Wet Dry range 4 to 5

Wet range 3 to 5 ok

4 3

Table: Physical test report for Black color (Buyer: Wool Worth)

Buyer Name: Wool Worth Order No.: 1980 AT Serial No.



ok -2.4% -2.9%

02 Dimensional Stability (Spirality) 0.8 % Spirality up to 5 % acceptable ok 03 Color fastness to wash 4 – 5 Range 4 to 5 ok 04 Color fastness to Rubbing Dry Wet Dry range 4 to 5

Wet range 3 to 5 ok

4 3

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Monthly Production Report Dyeing:

Monthly Production (March 2011) Date Production quantity in Kgs 01.03.2011 4580 02.03.2011 4578 03.03.2011 3867 04.03.2011 3939 05.03.2011 3711 06.03.2011 - 07.03.2011 4089 08.03.2011 4098 09.03.2011 4450 10.03.2011 5275 11.03.2011 4564 12.03.2011 3975 13.03.2011 - 14.03.2011 3898 15.03.2011 4561 16.03.2011 4037 17.03.2011 4523 18.03.2011 4134 19.03.2011 4168 20.03.2011 - 21.03.2011 4033 22.03.2011 4230 23.03.2011 4315 24.03.2011 4038 25.03.2011 4062 26.03.2011 - 27.03.2011 5806 28.03.2011 5275 29.03.2011 5998 30.03.2011 5417 31.03.2011 5152 Total 120048

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Chapter 5 Garments

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Northern Fashion Ltd. is a state-of-the-art Garment Manufacturing factory. The capacity of the project has been rated annually about 450,000 dozens of garment to be exported world-wide from its Garment unit.

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Machinery Layout Plan of Cutting Section

CT2

CT 1

CT3

CT4

CT5

PI PI

VN

IT

IT FFR

Fabric

Relaxation

Area

CTFA CTFA CTFA

DRM CAD R OFC FTL MTL

W

S

E

N

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Description of Layout (Cutting Section)

Symbol Description

FFR Finish Fabric Receptions

IT Inspection Table

CT 1 – CT 5 Cutting Table 1 – Cutting Table 5 with Spreader & Cutting Knife

PI Panel Inspection

CTFA Cut Fabrics Area

VN Vend Knife

DRM Doctor Room

CAD R CAD Room

OFC Office

FTL Female Toilet

MTL Male Toilet

Exit Gate

Exit Way

Column

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Machinery Layout Plan of Sewing – 1

Knitting Section

S C

BIR 3 BIR 1 BIR 2

QCEX

ADT

MMR (G) FTL MTL AS ADMIN

Finish Goods Store Packaging

MDM

Fin

ishi

ng &

Iron

ing

Sec

tion

SM

Sew

ing

Line

– A

Sew

ing

Line

– B

Sew

ing

Line

– K

Sew

ing

Line

– J

Sew

ing

Line

– I

Sew

ing

Line

– H

Sew

ing

Line

– G

Sew

ing

Line

– F

Sew

ing

Line

– E

Sew

ing

Line

– D

Sew

ing

Line

– C

W

S

E

N

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Description of Layout (Sewing – 1)

Symbol Description

ADMIN Administration Officers Room

MMR (G) Machine Maintenance Room (Garments Machinery)

AS Accessories Store

SM Sucker Machine

SC Spot Cleaning Room

ADT AQL Audit Table

MDM Metal Detector Machine

QCEX Room for Quality Executive

BIR (1 – 3 ) Buyer Inspection Room

FTL Female Toilet

MTL Male Toilet

Inspection Table

Ironing Table

Exit Gate

Exit Way

Column

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Machinery Layout Plan of Sewing – 2

Sample Section

Packaging Area

WS INS POFC OFC OFC

AS MMR (G)

MD & DTR ACC

Lift Marketing & Merchandising Section

OFC

FTL MTL

OFC

OFC

Sew

ing

Line

– M

Sew

ing

Line

– L

Sew

ing

Line

– R

Sew

ing

Line

– Q

Sew

ing

Line

– P

Sew

ing

Line

– O

Sew

ing

Line

– N

Sew

ing

Line

– S

SC

Fin

ishi

ng &

Iron

ing

Sec

tion

ADR OFC

CNFR

Toilet

W

S

E

N

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Description of Layout (Sewing – 2)

Symbol Description

ACC Accounts Section

MD & DTR Managing Director & Director Room

AS Accessories Store

MMR (G) Machine Maintenance Room (Garments)

CNFR Conference Room

SC Spot Cleaning Room

WS Work Study Office

OFC Office Room

POFC Planning Office

ADT Audit Room

INS Inspection Office

FTL Female Toilet

MTL Mail Toilet

Inspection Table

Ironing Table

Exit Gate

Exit Way

Column

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Garments machinery List:

Sewing Machinery S.L. No.

Name Brand Quantity

1 Plain needle machine Juki 112(Auto),68(manual) 2 Side cutter machine Juki 09 3 Auto suction type over lock m/c Juki 47 4 Touch switch thread cutter over lock Juki 31 5 Without auto over lock Juki 72 6 Without auto cylinder bed Juki 02 7 Without auto cylinder bed Pegasus 02 8 Auto fabric & thread trimming hemming m/c Juki 25 9 Auto fabric & thread trimming hemming m/c Pegasus 06 10 Auto cylinder bed top seam m/c Pegasus 08 11 Auto cylinder bed top seam m/c Juki 42 12 Without auto cylinder bed top seam m/c Pegasus 09 13 Without auto flat bed top seam m/c Juki 30 14 Binding /Piping m/c Juki 06 15 Binding /Piping m/c Pegasus 08 16 Back tap m/c Pegasus 08 17 Back tap m/c Kansai 02 18 Small head cylinder bed churihem m/c Pegasus 02 19 Small hesd cylinder bed churihem m/c Kansai 03 20 Multi needle m/c Kansai 04 21 Feed of the arm Juki 02 22 Feed of the arm Pegasus 02 23 Velcro stitch m/c Juki 01 24 Two needle plain stitch m/c Juki 02 25 Chain stitch m/c Juki 02 26 Shell stitch m/c Kansai 02 27 Picoting m/c Kansai 04 28 Zig Zag m/c Juki 01 29 Elastic attaching m/c Juki 01 30 Plaket setting m/c Scima 01 31 Button hole m/c Juki 04 32 Button stitch m/c Juki 06 33 Bart take Juki 03 34 Pneumatic snap fixing m/c Nagi

sing 06

35 Without auto span fixing m/c Zusun 04 36 Rib cutting m/c Ida 03 37 Rib cutting m/c Max 01 38 Rib cutting m/c Toyo 01 39 Re-coning Hashima 02

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Cutting Machinery 1 Clothing cutting m/c 8’’-KM ……. 08 2 Clothing cutting m/c 10’’ – KM 05 3 Auto spreading m/c Eastmer 01 4 Auto spreading m/c Gerbar 02 5 Auto marker m/c Gerbar 01 6 End cutter m/c Eastmer 03

Finishing Machinery 1 Spot remover m/c Nissan 02 2 Spot remover m/c PMM 01 3 Vacuuam ironing table Naomoto 22 4 Vacuam ironing table Nisho 18 5 Vaccum ironing table Silicon 02 6 Electric steam iron Silicon 01 7 Steam iron Namato 44 8 Fabric inspection m/c Uzu 05 9 Metal detector Lock 01 10 Thread sucking m/c uzu 03

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Flow Process of Garment Manufacturing:

Size set/PP meting comments

Production file

Trimp Card

Approved PP Sample

Key Inspection Point

Operation Bulleting

Cutting Receipt

Quality Specification Sheet

Cutting & Cut Audit Report

100% In Process in-spection for

CTQ

PP meting Actual

Production Begins

(Sewing & Finishing)

In line 100% Inspection

(Final Inspec-tion)

In process 100% Inspections Re-

port

In line 100% Inspection

Report

Issued to Finishing

Measurement Audit based on AQL 4

Bi Hourly Audit AQL

1.5

Must audit Report Visual audit Report

Packaging Buyer Inspec-tion

Shipment

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Cutting Flow chart:

Fabric Receive From Store

Fabric Relaxation

Quality Check (G.S.M., Shed, Shrinkage, Twist, Wash) etc)

Marker Check

Fabric Spreading (Manual or Automatic)

Marker Replace or Making

Cutting

Quality Check

Numbering

Card Writing

Bundling

Sent for Printing if need

Cut Panel Check

Ready for Input Issue

Cutting Flow Process

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Sewing

Front part rib sewing by Flat lock machine

Back part rib sewing by Flat lock machine

Sleeve hem sewing by Flat lock machine

Sleeve joint by 4 threads over lock machine

Sleeve joint by 4 threads over lock machine

Shoulder Joint by 4thread over lock machine

Care level attach by Plain sewing machine

Plug level attach by Plain sewing machine

Plug level sewing by Plain sewing machine

Rib sewing & Folding by Plain sewing m/c

Rib attach by 4 thread over lock machine

Placket joint by single needle drop machine

Arm hole top sine by Flat lock machine

Working Procedure line of a Basic T-shirt

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Daily Responsibility of a work study officer:

Daily time study 5 operation and production study 5 operations. Line balancing at morning Daily process improve document submit. Capacity analysis of each new style. SMV wise line target must be shown to PM and W.S.O Must be follow line discipline (As flow bundle I.S.O. register check of supervisor) Must be follow style finish date delivery date and daily check production of style finish. Record and summery report of style finish. Approval lay out submit 3days ago of own line. Hourly production report check and signature

Side seam joint by 4 thread over lock m/c

Sleeve lock stitch by Plain stitch machine

Sleeve hem lock by Plain stitch machine

Bottom or body hem stitch by Flat lock m/c

Inspection by quality man

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Chapter 6. Maintenance

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Maintenance:

Maintenance is a procedure by which Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free. Service and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customers is sustained. Maintenance of machinery is very important for proper working of machine.

Objective of Maintenance:

To keep the factory plants, equipments, machines. Tools in an optimum working con-dition.

To ensure specified accuracy to product & time schedule of delivery to customer.

To keep the machine down time to minimum thus to have control over the production program.

To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.

To modify the machine settings to meet the need for the production.

There are Three Types of Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection / checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harm-ful description

Break down maintenance:

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal functions.

Routine Maintenance:

Maintenance of different m/cs is prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts are done.

Northern Fashion Ltd. follows the break down maintenance.

Maintenance of machinery:

1. Mechanical 2. Electrical

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Maintenance Tools or Equipment:

1. Digital Multimeter. 2. Solaring Iron. 3. Sucker. 4. Cutting player. 5. Nose player. 6. Combination. 7. Spanner set. 8. Adjustable wrange. 9. Star screw driver. 10. Flat screw driver. 11. Pipe range. 12. Hummer 13. Electrical grading machine. 14. Cutting. 15. Hand drill, base drill. 16. Circuit opener and closer. 17. Thread cutter. 18. Measuring tape. 19. Micro meter. 20. Slide calipers. 21. Wilding machine.

Manpower set up:

In general shift six person and nine person are working in three shift.

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Chapter 7 Utility Services

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Machinery in Utility Section:

Name of equipment Types Brand/Model Origin Capacity

Caterpillar generator Gas Generator Bangla CAT USA 760KW

Cummins Generator Diesel Genera-tor

C700D5 USA 500KW

Marine Alternating Generator

Diesel Genera-tor

NTAKL USA 650KW

A.C. Synchronous Generator

Diesel generator STC-24 - 24KW

Boiler Fire Tube - Indian 6000Kg/hr ETP Chemical - Indian 40m³ /hr WTP - - - 40m³ /hr

Fire Tube Boiler

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Effluent treatment plan

Process description

The effluent from different sources will be collected in an Equalization tank through a Bar Screen. Bar Screen will remove large floating materials. The equalized effluent is then pumped to a Flocculation tank. Coagulation agents, like Lime, Alum and Polyelectrolyte will be dosed in the Flocculation Tank to agglomerate the suspended particles. The effluent from this tank will pass through the Primary Tube Settler where flocks are removed. After primary tube settler, the effluent flows to the Aeration Tank, where BOD & COD are removed. The pH of the effluent will be corrected to bring to the level of 8 to 8.5. After Aeration Tank, the effluent will pass through a Secondary Clarifier where suspended biological solids are re-moved. From Secondary Clarifier, the effluent will be discharge to drain.

Sludge generation from primary clarifier will be taken to sludge pit or sludge drying bed. From sludge pit sludge will be fed to centrifuge followed by filter press unit. Sludge cakes generation from filter press will be dried and can be disposed suitably. Sludge from second-ary clarifier will be re-circulated back to aeration tank and periodically to sludge pit.

Effluent Treatment Plant

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Technical Details of the plant

1. Plant capacity

The Effluent treatment plant has been designed for 40 m³ per hour capacity.

2. Design Effluent analysis

The plant has been designed on the basis of following analysis report:

SL Parameter Unit Value 1 Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) mg/l 500 2 Chemical oxygen Demand (COD) mg/l 800 3 pH 6-8

3. Treated Effluent Quality

At the outlet of the treatment system treated water quality will be as follows:

Design Consideration:

� Variation of Water quality and quality will not be more than 10%

� The plant is not design to reduce total dissolved solids.

� Type of Dye used is reactive dye

4. Chemical Consumption

Item Dosage Alum 10% solution at 100mg/ltr Lime 10% solution at 100mg/ltr

Polyelectrolyte 1% solution at 2-4 ppm Acid As per requirement Urea 5 kg per day( as shock does during long shutdown of the plant)

Phosphate 3 kg per day( as shock does during long shutdown of the plant

SL Parameter Unit Value 1 Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) mg/l 50 2 Chemical oxygen Demand (COD) mg/l <200 3 pH 7.5-8.5

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Note:

All chemical consumption figures are theoretical. Actual figure can be achieved dur-ing trial run.

Above given figures of chemical consumption will get reduced if the sewage dis-charge is added.

In case it is not possible to provide sewage discharge to the plant, then some di-ammonium phosphate & urea will be required at time of commissioning.

Water treatment plant:

Water for a textile plant may come from various sources .These includes surface water from rivers and lakes, and subterranean water from wells.

The various salts present in water depend on the geological formations through which the wa-ter has flowed. These salts are mainly the carbonates (CO3

2- ), hydrogen carbonates or bi-carbonates ( HCO3

- ), Sulphates ( SO42- ) and chlorides ( Cl- ) of calcium ( Ca2+), magnesium

(Mg2+) . Although calcium and magnesium carbonates in limestone are relatively insoluble in water. So in this reasons, water hardness can be divided into two ways-

1) Temporary hardness : Ca(HCO3)2 , Mg(HCO3)2 , Fe(HCO3)2

2) Permanent hardness : CaCl2 , CaSO4 , Ca (NO3)2 , MgCl2 , MgSO4 , Mg(NO3)2

This water hardness causes some serious consequences in a textile dyeing and finishing

industries and these are

1. Precipitation of soaps . 2. Redeposit ion of dirt and insoluble soaps on the fabric being washed ,

a. this can cause yellowing and lead to uneven dyeing and poor handle. 3. Precipitation of some dyes as calcium and magnesium salts. 4. Scale formation on equipment and in boilers and pipelines. 5. Reduction of the activity of the enzymes used in washing. 6. Incompatibility with chemicals in finishing recipes and so on.

Hardness expressed by parts per million (ppm) of CaCO3 which is standard hardness scale

and it is also called American hardness.

Capacity: 60m³ per hour

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Chapter 8 Store & Inventory Control

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Grey fabric, finished fabric & accessories inventory report of Northern Fashion Ltd. March 2011 are given below-

Grey Fabric Stock Report March,2011 Opening Balance 60803kg Received 119187kg Total Received 179998kg Issued 102501kg Stock 77497 kg B/N Floor 5607kg

Statement of Closing Stock of Finished FabricMarch,2011 Opening Stock Received Issued Closing Stock

Body Rib Body Rib Body Rib Body Rib 22921.00 923.00 89684.00 6462.00 98532.00 6378.50 18134.00 981.00

Accessories Received Status Name of Item Color Order Qty Required Qty Booking Receive

Qty. Balance

Size Care Level Aqua 4000 4200 4203 4230 27 Sewing Thread Aqua 4000 231 231 Sewing Thread Navy 13008 751 1277 526

Pearl Button-14L White 13008 598 232 -366 Sewing Ticket Aqua 4000 4120 3600 -520 Sewing Ticket Navy 4000 4120 3400 -720 Sewing Ticket White 313 322 800 478

Hanger Black 101008 101008 -101008 Hanger Sticker 101008 106058 106059 13570 -92489 Carton Sticker 13008 1626 1710 -1710

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Chapter 9 Cost Analysis

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Cost analysis

Per unit cost for different process

� Slitting : 2-3 tk per kg fabric � Heat setting : 18-19 tk per kg fabric � Finishing : 18-20 tk per kg fabric

Compacting : 5-7tk per kg fabric

Different Garments item cost

� Tang Top : $ 2.5-3.5 � Basic T-Shirt : $ 3.5- 4.5 � Polo Shirt : $ 4.00-15.00 � Trouser : $ 3.00-12.00

Average Knit item Price: $ 4.00- 10.00

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Chapter 10 Marketing Activities

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Consumer of the Products:

S.L. No.

Buyer Name Country of Origin

Direct Buyer 1 Group Znneir France 2 Best Seller Denmark

Indirect Buyer 1 Target Australia 2 Dunnes Ireland 3 New Look U.K. 4 Wool Worth Australia 5 BC BG France 6 Gekas 7 Mim U.K. 8 Jay Jays Australia 9 Bentone Italy 10 For Ever New U.K/Australia

Product label:

Product label differs from buyer to buyer. The product labels are prepared according to fabric criteria and the buyer requirements.

Product mixed:

Northern Fashion Ltd mainly produced Men, Ladies & kids Garments item. These products are including:

T-Shirt Tang Top Polo Shirt Trouser Jacket Etc.

Package size and label:

Package size and label differs from buyer to buyer. The package size and labels are prepared according to fabric criteria and the buyer requirements.

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Local Market:

Northern Fashion Ltd. is a100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this in-dustry are exported into various foreign countries. So, goods are not supplied into local mar-kets.

Importing countries:

S.L. No. Country name Product 1 India Yarn 2 China Main Level 3 Honking Care Level 4 Button Thailand

Marketing Strategy:

Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. Northern Fa-shion Ltd mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser and higher deal with buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers and by both side understanding the rate and the order quantity are fixed.

Duties& responsibilities of marketing officer:

The main duties and responsibilities of a marketing officer are given bellow:

� To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer. � To take different steps by discussing with the high officials and merchandiser. � To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchan-

diser. � To maintain a regular communication with the buyers & buying houses. � Communicate with the new buyer. � Display the criteria of the products.

Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer & ends after receiving goods by the buyer. So he should be always smart, energetic & sin-cere.

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Chapter 11 Conclusion

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Conclusion:

Technical education and its adoption in practical field. Inextricably , without the implemen-

tation of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success bound to suffer .

Therefore , this two months long industrial as a partial fulfillment of our B.Sc in tex-

tile Engineering course helped us to accomplish the gap between the theoretical and

practical knowledge by providing an elementary idea about industrial environment

processing machines , tools , equipments production system and maintenance , administra-

tion and management system .

We completed our industrial training at Northern Fashion Ltd. It was established just a few

years ago with latest model of different machinery within a very short time it earned

name and fame at home and abroad for its quality in production and administrative

facilities . The industry has been a setting up of a 100% export oriented composite knit gar-

ment unit. The project is set up with Knitting, Dyeing finishing and garments facilities.

Two month is not long period and it not sufficient time to learn all area in a factory but can

achieve an idea and can introduced with factory environment. In factory all the employs were

very busy to his/ her own responsibility, so they cannot supervise us properly, but they were

very cordial to us. Northern Fashion Ltd also called a training house of Textile Engineer.

At our training period we gather some knowledge which can be play a vital role in our pro-

fessional life. Beside the theoretical knowledge, by industrial training a student can increase

his/her knowledge properly. At training period if a student can supervise by a experience

person at industry with university he can appropriately learn vast knowledge. We successful-

ly completed our training, we try to gather all necessary information but it is true that

within this short period it is quiet impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole

this industry training was a satisfactory one again I would like to thank the authority

of Northern Fashion Ltd. as well as my honorable teachers for their altruistic help and

advice .

Education

Industrial Attachment