Garments merchandising

Garments Merchandising

MD SELIM REZAB. Sc Hon’s In Apparel Manufacture Technology (AMT)Institute of Science, Trade & Technology (ISTT), Dhaka

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Definition of Warp Knitting | Definition of Weft Knitting | Comparison Between Weft and Warp KnittingWhat is Weft Knitting?

In case of weft knitting, a horizontal raw of loops can be made by using one yarn, where the yarn runs in the horizontal direction.

Warp and weft knitting in textile

What is Warp Knitting?

In case of warp knitting, each loop in horizontal direction is made from a different yarn and the number of yarn which is used for producing fabric is at least equal to the no. of loops in the horizontal raw. It’s should be noted here that, the used yarn run through in the vertical way.

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Difference Between Warp Knitting and Weft Knitting:

Warp Knitting? Weft Knitting

01Here, the used yarn runs in the horizontal direction.

Here the used yarn runs in the vertical direction.

02Warp knitting is elastic to the length. This type of knitting is elastic to the width.

03It has less shrinkage than weft knitting. It has higher shrinkage than warp knitting.

04Used yarns are supplied from the beam. Here, used yarns are supplied from the cone.

05Warp knitted fabric is too much perfect for dry wash.

Weft knitted fabric is perfect for hand wash.

06Warp knitting is suitable for producing coarse fabric.

This type of knitting is perfect for producing thin fabric.

07Here, the loops are produced to the length of fabric.

Here, the loops are produced to the width of fabric.

08Elasticity is less for warp knitted fabric.

09.More courses are required for each pattern raw.

Here, course is equal to the pattern.

10Here, at least one yarn is required for each knitting needle.

Here, any number of knitting needle is required for one yarn.

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Working Procedure of Fabric Store Department in RMG Industry

Fabric Store Department in RMG Industry:

Before staring the garments production, required amount of fabric have to store in the garments. All the next processes such as spreading, cutting, sewing etc. have done by taking the fabric from here. As result, this department plays an important role to get smooth production. As its importance, this article has presented a details discussion on the activities of fabric store department in readymade garments sector.

Flow Chart of Fabric Store Department in Garment Industry:

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Fabric dispatched from supplier

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Fabric receiving

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Fabric checking

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Fabric checking by security guards

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Shade checking

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Send to the merchandiser for approval

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Quality checking for defects

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Fabric lot rejection

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Kept in store

All the above activities have explained in the following:

1. Fabric dispatched from supplier:

Here, required amount of fabric dispatched from the definite fabric supplier.

2. Fabric receiving:

It is the second task of any fabric store department in garment manufacturing industry. Here, store in-charge receives fabric from fabric supplier by following invoice.

3. Fabric checking:

Here, fabric has checked by following four point system.

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4. Fabric checking by security guards:

The quantity of fabrics should be confirmed here by security guards according to invoice. If it’s found short then immediately should inform to the garment merchandiser.

5. Shade checking:

It’s a very important task for fabric store department. Fabric shade should be checked here by following different types of shade which are already approved by the buyer. Here, various fabric shades have found which should be kept in lot wise.

6. Fabric lot rejection:

According to grading of fabric such as A, B, C, D etc. fabric lot has to reject here. This task is performed by Q.C (quality controller).

7. Send to the merchandiser for approval:

Here, apparel merchandiser receives all the information’s related with supplied fabric from the fabric store department. If found any major defects or faults then merchandiser discuss with the suppliers and takes necessary steps to solve those.

8. Quality checking for defects:

In this section, quality controller checks fabric quality according to the buyer’s quality recommendation.

9. Kept in store:

After completing all the above information’s, finally fabrics are kept in store for supporting into the next processes such as cutting, sewing etc.

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Bill of Material (BOM) in Apparel IndustryBill of Material (BOM) | Bill of Materials Information | Bill of Materials Format

What is BOM?

BOM stands for bill of material. It is actually a list of raw materials which are needed to be sourced for making the garments. It should be prepared and sourced the materials before starting the garments production. Before preparing bill of material, garment merchandiser should be aware about the shipping date of the garment.

In readymade apparel industry, BOM is normally prepared by factory merchandiser or production merchandiser. After that, it is approved by responsible person from the factory owner and handed over to the purchase department to purchase and in-house the required raw materials in timely.

BOM Information:

Bill of material contains the below information’s:

Details description of raw materials,

Consumption of raw materials per each garment,

The person name, who is responsible for sourcing,

Supplier name,

Projected cost per each item,

Product quality,

Product specification,

Product color name or color code,

Raw material price,

Sourcing date,

Cuttable Width,

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Total cost of raw material,

Product code (It is often called a style no. for fabric or input),

Size (buttons) or length (zippers).

BOM Preparation Method in Garment Industry:

After confirmation of a garment export order, production merchandiser or factory merchandiser receives the details information of the product (product quantity, color, size, style etc.) from the buying merchandiser. Then he prepare bill of material sheet by maintaining a specific format which normally followed in ready-made garment sector. Here, one thing should be noted here that, production merchandiser or factory merchandiser should provide bill of materials to the purchase department to source raw materials according to the style of garments. Otherwise they may mix-up all.

Boll of Materials or BOM Format Followed in Apparel Industry:

All the production merchandiser follow the below bill of materials format in apparel sector.

Bill of materials or BOM format followed in apparel industry

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Top 25 Merchandising Interview Questions with AnswersInterview Question for Garment Merchandiser:

An interview board consists of various types of specialized person in different fields of apparel sector. You have to face so many interview question from those specialists. Mainly you have to ask some basic interview question at first. From my all job interview experiences, I want to suggest you one thing that, before facing any interview in readymade garments sector or textile sector you should increase your basic knowledge from all the different section of textile or garments industry. This article has presented some important basic interview question from apparel section. Hope these interview question will help you to achieve your dream job.

Basic Interview Question faced by an applicant

Interview Question and Answer for Apparel Merchandiser:

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The below interview question and answer are very important to get garments merchandising job.

1. What is grain line?

Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in case of knitted fabric. Only the exception is seen for bias cut.

2. What is handle?

It is a characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, squeezing or rubbing them.

3. What is hip?

It is a specified level down from the waist seam and garment closed measure straight across garment, from one edge to the other.

4. What is waist?

Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and back waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of waistband or along elastic relaxed from one edge to other.

5. What is sleeve length?

It is the measurement from center back neck seam or edge straight across to shoulder or armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to bottom edge of sleeve opening.

6. What is sleeve inseam?

Measurement from under armhole seam to bottom edge of sleeve opening (cuff included) with vent closed (if applicable).

7. What is pleat?

It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made by folding the fabric. Dart and pleat both are used in the back part of the Men’s shirt usually.

8. What is inseam length?

Along inside seam of leg, measurement from crotch seam down to bottom edge of leg opening. Rib or elastic bands included in this measurement.

9. What is drape?

It is a character of fabric which indicates flexibility and suppleness of fabric.

10. What is durable press (DP)?

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The name given to a special finish that provides the garments with shape retention, durable pleats and pressed creases, durably smooth seams and wrinkle resistance during use and after laundering or dry cleaning. Durable press also can be added to the stretch fabrics to produce garments that stretch yet hold their shape and their creases.

11. What is double faced fabric?

Cloth with both ends similar is termed as double faced fabric.

12. What is basic block?

Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on papers each and individual part without any allowance which is called pattern and it is called also basic block.

13. What is crease?

Crease is any kinds of folding in cloths.

14. What is color bleeding?

It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partially gone into the water if such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent. Pigment dye come out from one place to another and is stuck place near by suck characteristics is called color bleeding.

15. What is crocking?

Crocking is the act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing or scouring.

16. What is back length or HPS?

HPS stands for high point of shoulder. Normally it is known as back length which is measured from high point of shoulder down to bottom edge of garment.

17. What is back rise?

It is the measure from crotch intersection point, along center back seam following curve up to waistband top edge.

18. What is CBN?

CBN stands for center back neck. It is the measure from center back neck seam or edge down to bottom edge of garment.

19. What is blind stitch?

It is a special type of stitch that cannot see from the face side of the fabric but can easily see from the back side.

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20. What is back stitch?

It is one kinds of hand stitch for sewing the apparels, which could also do by using sewing machine.

21. What is CF Line?

The straight line bottom to up vertically along the middle point of the body front of a shirt or jacket.

22. What is bar tack?

Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area of a high load bearing strength (E.g. belt loops and pocket corner are bar tacked).

23. What is back tacking?

Approximately 1cm or small stitch backward at the beginning and finishing of sewing, which is used securing of the sewn end so that the thread could not be loosed easily.

24. What is allowance?

When garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension of the garment is called allowance.

25. What is back rise?

The distance from the crotch back waist line is called back rise.

26. What is across back?

It is the measure of straight across back of garment at the midpoint of arm hole seam or edge from one side to other.

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Responsibilities of Merchandiser in Garment IndustryGarment Merchandiser:

Garment merchandiser is like a bridge between the buyer and industry. He has to look after every job like buying the raw materials which is required to finish the product, making the garment, finishing the garment, preparing documentation and finally shipping. Actually, he is the main responsible person to make the product in timely. As its importance, this article has presented a vast discussion on the roles and responsibilities of a merchandiser.

Garment merchandiser works in apparel industry

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An apparel merchandiser should follow the below responsibilities:

1. Internal & external communication,2. Sampling,3. Preparing internal order sheets,4. Accessories & trims in-housing,5. Preparing purchase orders,6. Getting approvals on lab dips,7. Advising and assisting production and quality department,8. Taking responsibility for inspections,9. Giving shipping instructions and following shipment.

All the above responsibilities of a garment merchandiser have explained in the following:

1. Internal & external communication:

A merchandiser has to communicate not only with the buyers but also with the others such as suppliers, nominated factory owners, fabric manufacturers etc.

2. Sampling:

It is one of the most important task for all the apparel merchandisers. Here, sample have to developed according to buyers instruction. Different types of sample should be developed here such as proto sample, fit sample, fit sample, photo shoot sample, sales man sample, size set sample etc.

3. Preparing internal order sheets:

An apparel merchandiser has to prepare various types of internal order sheets such as costing sheet, booking sheet etc.

4. Accessories & trims in-housing:

After confirmation of a garment export order, a garment merchandiser has to book and in-house all kinds of trimmings and accessories according to buyer’s instruction.

5. Preparing purchase orders:

Different types of purchase orders should be prepared here by the garments merchandiser such as fabric, sewing thread, trimmings and accessories etc.

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6. Getting approvals on lab dips:

It is the other important task of an apparel merchandiser. At first, lab dip should be done by maintaining buyer’s recommendation and submitted by the merchandiser to the buyer for its approval. If it’s ok then buyer approved it for running garment production.

7. Advising and assisting production and quality department:

A garment merchandiser must have to make good relationship with the garment production and quality department for smooth and fault free production. This also creates a great impact on shipping the product timely.

8. Taking responsibility for inspections:

Inspection should be done before shipping the product to the buyer. Here, merchandiser plays a significant role to inspect the product by using strong quality department or third party quality inspector.

9. Giving shipping instructions and following shipment:

It is the last and final tasks of an apparel merchandiser. Here, garment merchandiser advises various instructions to the commercial department about shipment of a garment export order. By maintaining those instructions, commercial department will ship the products to the buyer.

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Duties and Responsibilities of Sampling Department in Garment IndustrySampling Department in Garment Factory:

Sampling department plays a significant role to achieve a garment export order for the factory. It is the main section for any garment manufacturing factory. As its importance, this article has presented the various important duties and responsibilities of sample department.

Sampling Department in Apparel Industry

Responsibilities of Sampling Department in Apparel Industry:

Sample department of apparel manufacturing industry has to maintain the below responsibilities:

Getting clarifications about style details from the merchandiser,

Checking pattern’s work-ability,

Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval,

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Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples to QC,

Minimizing operations and consumption.

All the above responsibilities have explained in the following:

1. Getting clarifications about style details from the merchandiser:

It is the first task of any kinds of garment sample department. Here, the responsible person has to know about the details of sample from the garment merchandiser. In this stage, apparel merchandiser explains various important matters related with sample garment to the sample department personnel such as style, size, color, fabrication, washing, embroidery etc.

2. Checking pattern’s work-ability:

After receiving all the information’s of sample garment, here sample department personnel has to cut the pattern paper according to the buyers instruction which he received from the apparel merchandiser.

3. Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval:

Fabric has to cut here according to the definite pattern and sewing the garments by maintaining buyer’s instruction. Others instruction also maintained here such as wash, embroidery, print etc. Finally it’s sent to the buyer for approval. In this way, various types of samples such as proto sample, fit sample, photo shoot sample, salesman sample, size set sample, top sample, shipment sample etc. are made here.

4. Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples to QC:

It is one of the most important tasks of any sampling department. If found any problems during making the sample then it should be informed to the quality controller (QC) instantly. After that, quality controller will take necessary steps to solve those problems.

5. Minimizing operations and consumption:

Sampling department has to maintain other tasks of minimizing operations and fabric consumption which will be maintained during garment production.

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Top 25 Interview Questions and Answers for Garment JobInterview Questions and Answers:

Interview is a common scenario for any kinds of job. Each and every applicant has to face it. It can be very easy or tough which totally depends on the instant situation of viva board. During interview, you may face with your known topics or not, but you should be confident there. This article has presented some important interview questions and answers which may help you in your interview.

Interview Question and Answer for Garment Job

Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel Job:

Some important interview questions have presented in the below with their answers:

1. What is Garment?

A garment is the piece of clothing.

2. What is sample in garments?

The garment which is needed for bulk production or which is used through the process sequence is called sample.

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3. What is counter sample in garments?

The sample which is followed by the approved sample is called counter sample.

4. What is approved sample?

According to all the required specifications the sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

5. What is pattern?

It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications and individual components.

6. What is production pattern?

It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.

7. What is working pattern?

It is a pattern of a particular style with the net dimension.

Production pattern = working pattern + allowance

8. What is marker?

Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style of garments.

9. What is lining?

A generic term for fabrics which is used to cover inner surfaces of products, especially the inner face employs different materials from the outer surface.

10. What is interlining?

It is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in garments to support, re-enforce and control areas of garments and to retain actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing and bonding.

11. What is lay?

It is stack of fabric lengths made in preparation for cutting.

12. What is ligne number?

It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicated the diameter of button. If diameter increases, ligne number also increases.

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13. What is L/C?

L/C means letter of credit. It is commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the importer in favor of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within stated period. It will be paid in exchange of documents under certain items and condition.

14. What is invoice?

After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents mentioning the price is sent to the buyer for collecting is called invoice.

15. What is quota?

It is an agreement between governments of the importer country and the exporter country. In details it is the quantities of garments of different categories upon the manufacturing countries according to the business policy.

16. What is FOB?

FOB means free on board. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice without transport cost then it is called FOB.

17. What is C&F?

C&F means cost and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost then it is called C&F.

18. What is CIF?

CIF means cost, insurance and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost and insurance cost then it is called CIF.

19. What is category?

Category is a number which indicated what type of fabric is used for making the particular garment and it also indicated the type of this garment.

20. What is face of fabric?

The surface of the fabric that is intended to be seen because it presents s better appearance than the other side due to its characteristics i.e. weaves, luster, finish etc. in many fabrics, especially industrial fabrics, face and back are identical.

21. What is faced cloth?

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A term sometimes applied to the fabrics that have a separate set of warp or filling yarns on the back of the cloth i.e. pile fabric, flannel fabric.

22. What is fusing?

The term generally refers to partial melting. In bonding, fabric layers are joined together by fusion of an adhesive under heat and pressure.

23. What is the abbreviation of G/D?

G/D stands for grams per denier.

24. What is gauge?

In knitted fabrics, it is a measure of fineness or number of wales per unit of width across the fabric. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer texture.

25. What is grading?

When different sizes of patterns are made from the master pattern of the garment is called grading.

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Sample | Sample Room | Sample Room ActivitiesSample:

Sample garment is very important in readymade garment business. A sample is that by which any person can understand the production, qualities, and performance of the total garment export order. Sample is made in the sample room according to buyer’s instruction. It can ensure the garment buyer as well as to the customer about the pre and post condition of the garments order. Sample is also used to take required ideas from the market about the business promotion of that order.

Sample Room:

Sample room in reaymade garment industry

Sample room is the most important section in the readymade garments industry. A sample room is that where design ideas are taken from drawing to tangible garment. It is that kinds of production room where required amount of sample (2pcs or 3pcs or more) can be made according to the buyer’s recommendation.

It should be noted here that, the most experienced and well performer employee engaged in the sample room section. The sample room is consists with the fashion designers, pattern makers, sample pattern cutters, fabric specialists, sample machinists, fit specialists who all are expert in their specific area.

After making the pattern of the garments, it’s lay down onto the required quality of fabric and cut out the necessary amount of pieces for the particular style. After that, cutting fabric sent to the sample machinists who complete all kinds of sewing operations by using different types of sewing machines.

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Finally, quality controller checks the garments by following the buyer’s recommendation and submit to the garments merchandising department.

Activities of Sample Room:

There are some important activities of every sample section in the garment manufacturing industries which is pointed out in the below:

1. To make the proper sample by following buyer’s instruction.2. To understand the requirements of buyer.3. To fulfill the requirements of buyer.4. To inform the accuracy or confirmation to the buyer that the bulk production is going to be

right.5. To confirm the measurement and fabric requirements.6. To make the perfection in the pattern and marker.7. To make perfection in the fabric consumption.8. To make perfection in the garment costing.9. To utilizes the skill operation with skilled operator during garment sewing.10. To get understanding completely to the operators and management as well about the upcoming

garment production of that order.11. To combine the overall performance of a garment export order.

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Wool Fibre | Properties of Wool FibreWool Fibre:

Wool is a protein fibre. It is extracted from sheep. There are various types of wool. Marino wool is the best wool fibre because its length is reasonable. Fineness is good here and in most cases it has natural crimp.

Wool fibre

Properties of Wool Fibre:

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There are some key properties of wool which are pointed out in the below:

1. Length,2. Fineness,3. Elastic property,4. Effect of heat,5. Cross sectional shape,6. Strength and extension,7. Appearance,8. Effect of chemical,9. Effect of biological agents,10. End use.

All the above properties have explained in the following:

1. Length:

Length of wool fibre varies from 2 inch to twelve inch depending on type of fibre and the interval length of time of collection.

2. Fineness:

Generally, longer the fibre coarser the fibre. Here, fineness varies from 3-15 dtex that is corser than cotton fibre.

3. Elastic property:

Wool is the best natural fibre in respect of good recovery from deformation.

4. Effect of heat:

Burns with burning hair smell with specific sound.

5. Cross sectional shape:

It is roughly circular or elliptical in cross section. Some fibres are solid and some fibres have small intermittent holes which are called Kemp fibres.

6. Strength and extension:

Wool is weak fibr. Its tenacity varies from 1 to 15 g/dtex but very high extension at break which is 35%.

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7. Appearance:

It is characterized by crimp and scales. Due to crimp it is bulkier and wormer. Due to scle it has differential friction which is not present in cotton. Due to scales and extensibility, its feeling property is good. Color varies depending n the types of wool.

8. Effect of chemical:

In case of water, moisture regain of wool is 19% and when wet strength reduces about 20%.

In case of alkali, alkali degrades the wool fibre, changes color and reduces strength. Treatment of wool in 5% NaOH solution dissolves the fibre.

In case of acid, wool is safe in acid. In carbonizing wool 5% sulfuric acid solution is used to remove vegetable and cellulosic materials.

In case of solvent, wool is safe in solvent also. Hence dry cleaning is popular for woolen garments.

9. Effect of biological agents:

It’s attacked by moth, wind, rain and sunlight degrades the wool fibre.

10. End use:

Critical care is needed for the woolen garments because it may shrink during laundering or washing.

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How to Measure a GarmentGarment Measurement:

Accurate garment measurement is one of the most important points for the right fitting of the apparel. The person who takes necessary measurements has to take extra precautions and also know some key parameters of garments measurement. Those points have significantly presented in this article.

Garment measurement process

Key Points of Garment Measurement:

1. There are some important key points which are pointed out in the below:2. Working area should be neat and clean.3. Measuring table should attune with the full length and width of apparel.4. Presence of a technical person would be better for the accuracy of garments measurement.5. Here, apparel should be laid fully flat and tension free before garment measurement.6. All types of creases (without crinkle type fabric) and wrinkles should be removed from the

garments.

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7. Before garments measurement, a good quality measurement tape should be ensured. Here, the rounded metal end of the measurement tape is used for taking horizontal measurements and long metal end is used for taking vertical measurements.

8. An expert person is needed to take necessary measurements of apparel.9. The person who gives the measurement should stand straight.10. During garments measurement, a well fitted garment should be worn by the person who gives

the measurement.11. During measuring the body parts, basic lines of the body has needed to take consideration.12. While taking girth measurements, a tape or cord have to keep parallel to the ground like waist,

hip etc.13. It should be noted here that, accuracy of various measurements are totally depends on the

accurate waistline location. Also add these measurements in the suggested amount of ease.14. The amount of ease needed varies according to the types of fabric used. Also, it noted here,

that, more ease has needed in case of woven fabrics than knit fabric.15. To take more systematic measurement, a garments measurement sequence or flow chart

should be followed.

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How to Negotiate Buyer in Readymade Garment Business?Buyer Negotiation:

A successful buyer negotiation outcome does not mainly occur through luck but by following a clear process. The process which reflects the various levels of knowledge of the subject of negotiation. A garment merchandiser has to do a lot of task to negotiate the buyer. This article has presented a details discussion on buyer negotiation process which are deeply followed in readymade garments sector.

Garment buyer negotiation by merchandiser

Buyer Negotiation Process Followed by Garment Merchandiser:

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An effective buyer negotiation can be made by following some key factors which are mentioned in the below:

1. Researching the needs of both parties,2. Preparation,3. Offer,4. Discussion,5. Counter and revised offers,6. Summaries,7. Agree and commit.

All the factors have explained in the following:

1. Researching the needs of both parties:

The higher the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the apparel merchandiser’s requirements, the better able they are to construct an acceptable solution. The buyer must be clear about both the department mark-up to be placed on the product cost price and the intended retail selling price so that he can judge the viability of the garment merchandiser’s products. He should also have sufficient product construction knowledge to understand how changes can be made to achieve better value in the product.

Frequently the garment merchandiser will make suggestions to try to bring the cost price closer to the buyer’s target. However an experienced buyer can speed up the process by making suggestions which will be acceptable to her. Lead time is another lever for buyer negotiation with differing operational issues for both parties. If the buyer starts the sourcing process early enough he may have enough time in hand to use extended lead time as a bargaining tool.

2.Preparation:

Effective preparation is also very important to successful communication which ultimately makes easy to do buyer negotiation effectively. The particular preparation required will vary according to the nature of meeting but some factors are always important. Meeting should begin on time and follow a clear agenda with a realistic amount of time to accommodate the work. Where there is an existing relationship with a garment merchandiser, a file containing the relevant notes and documentation relating to the orders should be read prior to the meeting and taken in for reference.

Garment merchandisers meeting are usually held in uncluttered or empty rooms or offices to avoid any distraction from the business of the meeting. It is also usual for there to be two people from buying in the meeting so that buyer can have an objective view point available while personally involved in the buyer negotiation.

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It is essential that the buyer also has identified the maximum and minimum positions that he will accept for a range of factors including product price, order size and lead time.

3. Offer:

Having identified where the respective position lies between them. The buyer and garment merchandiser can make specific proposals to set the boundaries of negotiation (buyer negotiation). It is unlikely that many of the offers initially made will end up being accepted. So both parties allow for some manoeuvre. This is the opportunity for the buyer to being trading what is of relatively low value for him but of more value to the apparel merchandiser.

4. Discussion:

The likely framework of a final settlement will emerge in the discussion as each side probes the other ad makes suggestions. Answer to the suggestions can be revealing with choice of words and tone signaling interest of reluctance and should be noted as potential bargaining material. There will be areas on which one side can move more than the other and vice versa. It is important for the buyer to make a note of which ones provide the greatest and least opportunities for flexibly the trade- off later in the buyer negotiation.

5. Counter and revised offers:

This is the real bargaining where elements of the order such as numbers of units, product details, lead time and so on are being decided in the context of an overall cost price. The buyer should make firm proposals and be cautious of offering concessions unless she is getting one in return. The final element that will pull all of the other variables together will be the cost price which is agreed at the end. Although the bargaining may be tough, the spirit of the communication should be remaining friendly and not adversarial. Parities are more likely to co-operate if they are being treated fairly and responsibility.

6. Summaries:

It is vital to summaries at key stages through the buyer negotiation when significant points are agreed to avoid losing early gains as to ensure that both parties understand each other. With so many potential variables included can be easily forgotten unless there is a record of agreement through. Records will also provide both sides with an explanation of how the deal was constructed should a particular variable become contentious at a later date.

7. Agree and commit:

It is very important to make an effective buyer negotiation job. Once the parties have agreed an order, they have to communicate the details to other functions. The garment merchandiser may need to book production space, order fabric or trimmings and source labels. The buyer will need to inform the apparel merchandiser of the retail selling value of the order so that a track can be kept on spending

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How to Garment Analysis Before Order ConfirmationIntroduction:

A garment merchandiser faces too much pressure before confirmation of a garment export order. During this time he has to analysis different matters related with the garments costing. This article has shown a garment analysis method which are strongly followed in readymade garment industry.

Garment analysis in apparel industry

Garment Analysis Method Followed in Apparel Industry:

There are various key points of garment analysis especially in the apparel export business. Those points have mentioned in the below:

1. Measurement chart,2. Size ratio,3. Color,4. Quality of garments,5. List of trimmings and accessories required,6. Fabric consumption per dozen,7. Cost of garments per dozen,8. Determination of production time and delivery date.

All the above key points have explained in the following:

1. Measurement chart:

It is the first step of garment analysis for the apparel export order. Here, garment buyer passes the measurement chart to the apparel merchandiser. By following this measurement chart, manufacturers have to make the garments.

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2. Size ratio:

Size ratio is another important point of garment analysis in garments export business. Size ratio consists of XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL etc. It is normally confirmed by the buyers. It can be S: M: L:: 1:2:1. It’s just an example.

3. Color:

Color of garment is confirmed by the buyers. After receiving the color code or pantone number, garment merchandiser has to do lab dip for the definite color and approve from the buyer. It’s too much needy for the colored garments. It should be done by maintaining various precautions.

4. Quality of garments:

In this modern garment export business, quality plays an important role. Buyers are invested a lot of dollar to sustain their brand’s quality. As a result, garment merchandiser should confirm about different types of key matters which directly affected on garments quality such as measurement tolerance, fabric strength, seam strength, fabric defects, garment defects etc. Quality has too much impact on garment analysis.

5. List of trimmings and accessories required:

Before garments order confirmation, apparel merchandiser should have excellent idea about the trimmings and accessories required for manufacturing the garments. Otherwise order profit will be decreased. it is one of the important point of garment analysis.

6. Fabric consumption per dozen:

Garments profit totally depends on fabric consumption. As a result it is too much important for a garment merchandiser to calculate accurate fabric consumption for the garments by following measurement chart. Normally it’s calculated in dozen.

7. Cost of garments per dozen:

After calculating fabric consumption, garments costing should be done by the apparel merchandiser. Cost of garments includes fabric cost, trimmings and accessories cost, washing cost, printing cost, dyeing cost, embroidery cost and others. It is also very important point of garment analysis.

8. Determination of production time and delivery date:

It is the last key point of garment analysis for a garment export order. Garment merchandiser should confirm the production time and delivery date for the order by discussing with the garments production personnel.

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How to Approve Fabric Color From the Buyer?Introduction:

Fabric color approval is one of the important tasks garments merchandising. It should be done by the garment merchandiser after receiving a garment export order. To approve fabric color from the buyer, some procedures have to follow. Those procedures have discussed in this article.

Lab Dip Approval Copy from the buyer

Fabric Color Approval Method Followed in Apparel Industry:

In garments industry, fabric color can be approved from the buyer by following some procedures, those are pointed out in the below:

1. Color suggested by the buyer,2. Lab dip should be done for the buyer’s selected color,3. Lab dip sent to the buyer for color approval.

All the above three processes have discussed in the following:

1. Color suggested by the buyer:

At the beginning of a garment export order, garment buyers send a garment specification sheet to the garment merchandiser which contains all the necessary information about the order. Fabric color also mentioned in that specification sheet as pantone number or pantone code.

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2. Lab dip should be done for the buyer’s selected color:

It is the second stage for the fabric color approval procedure. After receiving garments specification sheet, the first duty of a garment merchandiser is to send the buyer’s selected color (pantone code) to the fabric dyeing and washing factory for completing lab dip. After completing lab dip, fabric dyeing and washing factory submit the required color lab dip to the garment merchandiser by grading A, B, C. it should be noted here that, three copy lab dip submission forms have to ready for each pantone number. One for the factory, one for the garment merchandiser and another one is for the buyer.

Lab Dip Rejected Copy from the buyer

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3. Lab dip sent to the buyer for color approval:

It’s the final stage for the fabric color approval procedure. Here, garment merchandiser sends all the required color lab dip to the buyer for approval. After checking all the lab dips, Garment buyers confirm the definite grade of color for his fabric and inform to the garment merchandiser.

Lab Dip Test Copy for the factory

In this way, fabric color is approved by the buyer for the garments production.

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Garment Costing Terms Used in Apparel Industry15 Garment Costing Terms Used in Apparel Industry

Introduction:

Garments costing is very important in garments merchandising. Garment merchandisers done this job by negotiating with the buyer. During garments costing, there are a lot of garments costing terms have come in consideration which are mentioned in this article.

Garments Costing Terms

Garments Costing Terminology Used in Garment Export Import Business:

Different terms related to garments costing are mentioned in the following:

1. Yarn cost,2. Process cost,3. Buyer negotiation,4. Quality,5. Quantity,6. CMT,7. Over head cost,8. Shortage in process,9. Buyer specification about the definite product,10. Process of shipment (Sea or Air),11. Currency,12. FOB,13. CIF,14. Commission (%) for the middle man,15. Profit (%) for factory or buying house.

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All the above points have discussed in the below:

1. Yarn cost:

Yarn cost is an important mater in garments costing. Accurate yarn cost helps to earn maximum profit from a garment export order.

2. Process cost:

Process cost means the total amount of processing (cutting, sewing, finishing etc.) cost needed to make a garment. Costing of garments varies depending on the process needed to make garment.

3. Buyer negotiation:

Buyer negotiation or buyer handling is very important in readymade garments sector. As a garment merchandiser you should explain your total discussion to the buyer in all possible ways by keeping those matters in your way. Buyer will automatically choose from your proposed options.

4. Quality:

Quality is the ultimate point of a garments product. Garments buyers are now invested a lot of money to satisfy the customers by providing them right quality products.

5. Quantity:

Garment costing varies depending on the quantity of garments.

6. CMT:

CMT means “Cut make and trims”. In this circumstance, garments manufacturer quotes the buyer a proposed price which covers making cost, trimmings and accessories cot of a garment. Here, all the other required materials sent by the buyer to the manufacturer.

7. Over head cost:

Overhead cost means the cost of each operator required to make a garment. Over head cost has a significance impact in garments costing.

8. Shortage in process:

If garments made by avoiding unnecessary processes then it will be very effective for garments costing.

9. Buyer specification about the definite product:

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Buyer specification about the definite garments means direction about garments making, print, embroidery, wash etc. which is contained by garments specification sheet.

10. Process of shipment (Sea or Air):

Shipment of products can be done by using sea freight or air freight which is totally depends on the buyers. Shipping condition affects on garments costing.

11. Currency:

Currency is an important matter in garments manufacturing sector.

12. FOB:

FOB means “free on board”. In this case, exporter quotes the garment buyer a price that includes all costs up to and including delivery of goods aboard an overseas vessel. Here, exporter quote the price by adding fabric cost, accessories cost, CM (cost of making), overhead cost, commission, C&F commission and transportation cost from factory to port.

13. CIF:

CIF means “Cost, insurance and freight”. In this case exporter quotes the buyer a price that covers FOB cost, insurance cost and freight cost. As a result, CIF cost is higher than C&F cost.

14. Commission (%) for the middle man:

If garment factory collects the order from a garment buying house or buying agent then he must have to pay them commission percentage for the order.

15. Profit (%) for factory or buying house:

During garments costing, garment merchandiser added profit (%) here for the factory or buying house with all the others cost.

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Flow Chart of Garments Export ProcessGarments Export Process:

Garments export process means all the processes required from order receiving to shipment. Every garments merchandiser plays an important role in completing garments export order. It’s not easy task that we have normally seemed. Garments merchandiser has to sacrifice a lot of matter to earn profit from an export order. To perform all the required functions for the export order, garments merchandiser should follow a process flow chart which will help him to do the right task at the right time. This article has shown all the required matters for completing the garments export processes.

Preparing garments for exporting purpose

Process Sequence of Garments Export Process:

Contact with the buyer

↓

Order collection

↓

Sample development

↓

Sample approval

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↓

Costing

↓

Confirmation of order

↓

Consumption

↓

Fabric & accessories booking

↓

Master L/C

↓

Back to back L/C

↓

Preparing T&A calendar

↓

Fabric & trims in House

↓

Pre-production meeting

↓

Pattern and marker making for bulk production

↓

Cutting

↓

Numbering, bundling & sorting

↓

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Production line set-up

↓

Sewing

↓

Finishing

↓

Pre-final inspection

↓

Final inspection

↓

Ready for shipment

All the above processes have discussed in the below table:

Process ProcedureContact with the buyer It is the first process of a garment export order. At first, garments

merchandiser has to contact with the buyer for order collection.Order collection Here garments merchandiser receives garments order from the

buyer. Each order contains garments specification sheet for different items or products.

Sample development After receiving export order, garments merchandiser has to develop the required products by following garments specification sheet.

Sample approval After developing product sample, garments merchandiser sends it to the buyer for approval.

Costing If the product sample is approved then garments merchandiser will make final costing for the product by discussing with the buyer.

Confirmation of order Finally garments merchandiser confirms the order here.Consumption After confirmation of a garment export order, garments

merchandiser has to prepare consumption of required fabrics, trimmings and accessories.

Fabric & accessories booking Here, fabrics and accessories booking have done to in-house the required items for the export order.

Master L/C Meanwhile, master L/C is opened from the buyer side and submitted to the garments merchandiser.

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Back to back L/C For importing raw materials for the export order, here manufacturer has to open back to back L/C.

Preparing T&A calendar In the mean time, garments merchandiser has o prepare time and action plan here for the garments production.

Fabric & trims in house All the required fabrics, trimmings and accessories are in-housed here according to the booking chart.

Pre-production meeting It’s an important factor for a garments production. Production team should complete this meeting before staring the production

Pattern and marker making for bulk production

Here, pattern and marker should prepare according to the approve sample.

Cutting Fabrics cutting are done here according to the approvedpattern and marker.

Numbering, bundling & sorting Here all the cutting fabrics have to do numbering sorting and bundling to avoid shade variation in the garments.

Production line set-up Here, production team sets a perfect production line forcompleting smooth garments production.

Sewing All the cutting fabrics are sewn here according to the approved sample.

Finishing All the required finishing procedures are done here byfollowing the buyer’s instruction.

Pre-final inspection Here, pre-final inspection has done to ensure right quality for the export order. Normally it is done by factory inspection team.

Final inspection Final inspection of an order has done here by the buyer’s inspection team. Where, the inspection team is confirmed by the buyer.

Ready for shipment Finally garments sent to the buyer by using sea freight or air freight.

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9 Key Points of Garment Specification Sheet

Introduction:

Garments specification sheet is an important document for manufacturing any garments. The main objects of providing garments spec sheet to the manufacturer is to facilitate the whole processes of garments manufacturing. As its importance in readymade garments sector, today I will present here a details discussion about the garments specification sheet.

Garments Spec Sheet Used in Apparel Industry:

Definition of Garments Specification Sheet:

Garments specification sheet is a document of a product which contains the sketch of garment design, fabric construction etc. It is provided by the buyer to the garment merchandisers at the beginning of a garment export order. Garment merchandisers normally receive garments specification sheet in soft copy (PDF file) from the buyer.

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Garments Specification Sheet

By following this document, garment merchandiser can run the others merchandising procedure of that product such as consumption, costing etc. It should be noted here that, garments specification sheet can be corrected after developing sample. In RMG sector, it is also known as garments spec sheet, specification sheet or garment spec.

Key Points of a Garments Spec Sheet:

Normally garments specification sheet contains the following key points:

1. Sketch or design of the product,2. Measurement chart,3. Printing instruction,4. Embroidery instruction,5. Stitch instruction,6. Garments washing instruction,7. Accessories instruction,8. Different label instruction,9. Necessary comments related to the product.

All the above key points have discussed in the below:

1. Sketch or design of the product:

Sketch or design means the basic outlook of the required item. It is confirmed by the buyer. He can make it by using computer.

2. Measurement chart:

Measurement chart or measurement sheet contains various size measurement of the required item. By following this sheet pattern has to develop.

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3. Printing instruction:

Printing instruction contains various information about the required print for the item. Printing instruction means print size, print location etc.

4. Embroidery instruction:

Embroidery instruction contains different types of information about the required embroidery for the definite item. Embroidery instruction means embroidery size, embroidery location etc.

5. Stitch instruction:

Stitch instruction contains various info about the stitch required for the item. Stitch instruction means stitch type, stitch thread types etc.

6. Garments washing instruction:

Sometimes garment has needed various wash effects which is instructed here. Garments washing instruction means types of wash, softness, hardness etc.

7. Accessories instruction:

Accessories instruction contains different information about the required types of accessories needed for the garment.

8. Different label instruction:

Label instruction contains various types of label such as main label, care label, size label etc.

9. Necessary comments related to the product:

If buyers seemed to deliver some comments related to the required garments manufacturing methods then he can use this option.

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20 Important Terms Used in Readymade Garments SectorIntroduction:

Readymade garments sector of Bangladesh plays a significant role in the countries economical growth. Also this sector creates a lot of employment opportunity to around 4.2 million Bangladeshis, specially for the women from low income families. In garments manufacturing sector, a lot of terms used in various processes which should be known by all the persons related with this sector. As its importance, those terms have explained in this article very fluently.

Readymade Garments Sector

Different Terms Used in Apparel Sector:

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Some important terms which are vastly used in readymade garments sector has mentioned in the following:

1. Allowance,2. Armhole,3. Back tacking,4. Back stitch,5. Bar tack,6. Button measurements,7. Bundle,8. C.B.L (Centre back line),9. C.F.L (Centre front line),10. Crutch point,11. Dummy,12. Epaulet,13. Grading,14. Grain line,15. L/C,16. Back to back L/C,17. Invoice,18. FOB,19. C&F,20. CIF.

All the above terms have explained in the below:

1. Allowance:

During making garments some extra measurement is added with actual body measurement, which is known as allowance. For example, if the actual body measurement is 80cm, then it’s counted as 84cm during pattern making. Here allowance is 4cm.

2. Armhole:

In readymade garments sector, armhole is the boundary measurement of arm where the sleeve is attached with the garments.

3. Back tacking:

In garments manufacturing sector, back tacking is a safe stitch which is done after completing a stitch. The direction of back tacking is opposite to the main stitch. Mainly back tacking is done to protect the unwinding of the stitch. Normally its length is 1cm to the back ward direction.

4. Back stitch:

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In apparel manufacturing sector, back stitch is a pattern which is made without any allowances or any style of garments.

5. Bar tack:

In garments sector, bar tack is a re-stitching over a small length after completing a stitch. There are some parts of garments which are required to bear excessive load than other parts of that garments. As a result, stitching strength for those garments parts should be more than other parts of garments. In this case, re-stitching is done over the stitch of those garments parts to bear the extra load which is known as bar tack. For example, bar tack is done to the corner of the pocket belt loop etc.

6. Button measurements:

Button can be measured by measuring the diameter of the button. Ligne is used to measure the diameter of button.

1 ligne = 0.635mm

7. Bundle:

In garments manufacturing sector, after cutting the fabric, similar parts of garments are kept by tiding them up temporarily to shift easily from one place to another, which is known as bundle.

8. C. B.L (Centre back line):

C.B.L means centre back line. It is the straight line through the midpoint of the body in the back part of a shirt or jacket.

9. C.F.L (Centre front line):

C.F.L means centre front line. C.F.L starts from the collar, ends to the bottom hem and passes through the middle of the front part of a shirt.

10. Crutch point:

In readymade garments sector, crutch point is that point, where the two inside seam of a part is connected together.

11. Dummy:

Dummy is a copy of a human body which is made of plastic, rubber, stone etc. Dummy is usually used to check the fitting of a garment. We have seen regularly in the shop that different size dummies are used to display their products in wearing condition.

12. Epaulet:

Epaulet is known as the sharp which is used in the shoulder of overcoat, jacket, sportswear etc. Epaulet is used in the garments to protect the unwilling extension at the shoulder point.

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13. Grading:

Grading is the process, where different sizes pattern have to make by following the master pattern.

14. Grain line:

Grain line is the straight line with arrow which is drawn on every pattern pieces to indicate the grain of fabric is. Grain line is used to place the pattern parallel with the grain of fabric/cloth.

15. L/C:

L/C means letter for credit. L/C is an important document on export, import business. The letter or document issued by a bank which ensures the certainty to pay the price of goods in favor of buyer of those goods is called L/C.

16. Back to back L/C:

If the raw materials are imported from a foreign country and the produced goods by using those raw materials are again exported to that country, then the L/C opened for that business is called back to back L/C. It should be mentioned that, the raw materials which are imported by back to back L/C cannot be sold in local market.

17. Invoice:

It is a very important document in readymade garments business which is sent with the goods to the buyer. The invoice includes products descriptions, prices, number of cartons, number of products in every cartoon etc. A shipment is not allowed without a commercial invoice.

18. FOB:

FOB means “Free On Board”, which is a pricing system. If the actual price of goods is mentioned in the invoice without any transportation cost and insurance cost, then this system is called FOB price-system or costing system.

19. C&F:

C&F means “Cost and Freight”. It is also a pricing system. If the actual price of goods and transportation cost are mentioned in the invoice without any insurance cost, then this system is called C&F price system or costing system.

20. CIF:

CIF means “Cost, Insurance and Freight”. It is also a pricing system. If the actual price of goods, transportation cost and insurance cost are mentioned in the invoice, then this system is termed as CIF price system or costing system.

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Factors of Embroidery CostingIntroduction:

Embroidery costing is an important matter in garments merchandising. There are different key factors which are directly affected on embroidery costing. Every garments merchandiser should know about it perfectly. Otherwise total garments costing will be increased, which will turn into massive loss in garments business profit.

Embroidery used in Garments

Key Factors of Embroidery Costing:

Various key factors which are directly affected on embroidery costing are mentioned in the following:

1. Quantity of stitch,2. Nature of embroidery,3. Time needed to complete a lot,4. Shade of thread,5. Lay of embroidery,

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All the above key factors have discussed in the below:

1. Quantity of stitch:

It’s a very important key point which has great impact on embroidery costing. Every garments merchandiser should know about it perfectly, otherwise embroidery takes more cost and ultimately garments cost will be increased.

2. Nature of embroidery:

It’s another important key point which should be considered during embroidery costing. There are different types of embroidery. Each embroidery types needed different amount of costing i.e cross stitch embroidery costing is not same as crewel embroidery costing.

3. Time needed to complete a lot:

Time plays an important role in embroidery costing. Different embroidery types takes different amount of time to complete each, which directly affected on embroidery costing. So garments merchandiser should follow it carefully.

4. Shade of thread:

Embroidery is produced by using various shade of thread. Costing of each thread shade is not similar. So if we use higher pricing thread shade, ultimately embroidery cost will be increased there and vice versa. So, during embroidery costings garments merchandiser should followed it also.

5. Lay of embroidery:

Before confirmation of embroidery costings, garments merchandiser have to confirm about the lay of embroidery, which will help him to make perfect costing of embroidery. Otherwise it’s turned into highest amount of embroidery costings

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How to Calculate Carton Costing in Garment Industry?Introduction:

Carton costing is very much important in garments merchandising. Carton costing is not a tough task that we have normally seemed. This article has shown an easy method for calculating carton costing in apparel industry.

Carton Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry:

Before calculating carton costing, a garments merchandiser should confirm the following information:

1. Carton length in cm,2. Carton width in cm,3. Carton height in cm.

Important tips**

Then,

garment merchandiser should calculate ply board consumption for the carton box and multiply with ply board rate.

Now by using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate carton box costing in readymade garments industry.

Carton costing (Per pc carton box),

= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq. meter)………… (1)

Now, one example is enough to remove your all the confusions from the above discussion.

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Example:

Suppose, a 5 ply carton having length 65cm, width 45cm and height 12cm. Now calculate Carton box costing for 400pcs carton box. (where, 5 ply board rate is $0.65 per square meter).

Solution:

Here,

Carton length – 65cm,

Width of carton- 45cm,

Carton height – 12cm,

5 ply board rate per square meter- $0.65

Total carton-400pcs.

So,

Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),

= 1.41 square meter per pc carton.

Now, from (1), we get-

Carton costing (Per pc carton box),

= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq. meter)

= 1.41 × 0.65

=$0.92 per pc carton box.

So,

For 1pc carton, carton box costing stands at =$0.92.

And,

For 400pcs carton, carton box costing will be (0.92 × 400) = $368.

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How to Calculate Poly Bag Costing in Garment Industry?Introduction:

Poly bag costing is an important matter in garments merchandising. All the garment merchandisers should know about it. Poly bag costing is not a tough task that we have normally seemed. As its importance in readymade garments sector, today I will present here the costing calculation method of poly bag.

Poly Bag Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry:

At the starting of poly bag costing, a garments merchandiser should identify the below information:

Poly bag length in inch,

Poly bag width in inch,

Poly bag thickness in gauge,

½ flap of poly bag (Flap is single layer and width of poly bag is double layer),

Numbers of print on the poly bag (Print can be any types of logo, text, warning etc.),

Rate of polymer per pounds (It can be PP, PE and LDPE etc.).

Important Tips**

The next duty is to calculate poly bag consumption or calculate the amount of polymer needed to produce poly bag.

Then, by multiplying, poly bag consumption (total amount of polymer needed to produce poly bag) with polymer rate, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate poly bag costing in the apparel industry.

Now, I will present an example here for poly bag costing. Hope all the confusions will be cleared.

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Example:

Suppose, the buyer “ZARA” suggests the below information about the poly bag of a garment export order.

Poly bag length – 28”,

Poly bag width- 24”,

Poly bag thickness – 160gauge,

½ flap of poly bag- 5”,

Rate of LDPE polymer- $0.40 per pound.

Now, calculate the poly bag costing for the above order.

Solution:

At first, we have to calculate poly consumption according to given data.

Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg),

= 38.4 kg per 1000pcs ply bag.

So, for 1000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed 38.4kg.

And,

For 1pc poly bag, LDPE polymer needed,

= (38.4/1000) kg= 0.04kg= (0.04 × 2.20) lbs= 0.08lbs

So, cost of LDPE polymer for 1pc poly bag ($),

= LDPE polymer needed for 1pc poly bag × LDPE polymer cost per pound (lb)

= 0.08 × 0.40

= 0.03

So, cost of LDPE polymer or cost for 1pc poly bag is $0.03

And,

Cost of 1000pcs poly bag,

= $(1000 × 0.03) = $30

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How to Calculate Costing for Woven Shirt?Introduction:

If you want o be a qualified merchandiser, then you must have to know the method of garments costing. In readymade garments sector, garments costing is a very important port for a merchandiser. As its importance in garments merchandising, today I will present here a garments costing method for woven long sleeve shirt.

Method of Garments Costing for Woven Long Sleeve Shirt (Factory Costing):

At the starting of a woven shirt costing, a woven garments merchandiser should confirm the following matters:

1. Fabric Cost,2. Printing Cost,3. Embroidery Cost,4. Cost of Making (CM),5. Washing Cost,6. Accessories Cost,7. Commercial Cost,8. Others Cost.

Important tips***

The next duty is to calculate the fabric consumption and costing.

Then finally all the others necessary cost should be added with fabric cost to achieve total cost of a garment.

Now, I will present an example for Woven Shirt costing in the following. Hope, all the confusion will be cleared from the above discussion.

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Example:

Suppose,

The buyer “Bangla Apparel” forwards a “woven long sleeve shirt” item order to you with the following specification.

Fabric width- 60

Actual Length Allowance Measurement with AllowanceBody Length from HSP 64cm 6cm 70cm

½ Chest 40cm 6cm 46cmSleeve Length 30cm 6cm 36cmArmhole (Straight) 15cm 5cm 20cmCollar Length 38cm 4cm 42cmCollar Width 6cm 2cm 8cmCuff Length 10cm 3cm 13cmCuff Width 2.5cm 0.5cm 3cmCollar Band Length 28cm 3cm 31cmCollar Band Width 2cm 2cm 4cmPocket Length 13cm 2cm 15cmPocket Width 9cm 1cm 10cmYoke Length 42cm 4cm 46cmYoke Height 11cm 4cm 14cmNow, calculate the garments costing (on FOB) for the above order.

Solution:

Fabric width – 60”

(Here, the given fabric width is 60”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric. So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is 60-1 = 59”)

Wastage – 10%

Let,

Fabric Cost per yds- $3.50

Printing Cost per dozen- $1.6

Embroidery Cost per dozen- $4.00

Accessories Cost per dozen- $1.80

Washing Cost per pcs- $2.00 so, washing cost per dozen is – ($2.00 × 12) = $24.00

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Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for this order.

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest):

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

= 14.32yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………………………….. (A)

So, fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest) is 14.32yds per dozen.

(Note: 2.54 used to convert into inch from cm and 36 used to convert into yds from inch).

2. Fabric consumption for the Sleeve:


= 6.41yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………………… (B)

So, fabric consumption for the sleeve is 6.41yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Collar:


= 1.50yds per dozen…………………………………………………………………………………………… (C)

So, fabric consumption for the Collar is 1.50yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Cuff:


= 0.35yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………………………. (D)

So, fabric consumption for the Cuff is 0.35yds per dozen.

5. Fabric consumption for the Collar Band:


= 0.55yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………………………………….. (E)

So, fabric consumption for the Collar Band is 0.55yds per dozen.

6. Fabric consumption for the Pocket:


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= 0.67yds per dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………. (F)

So, fabric consumption for the Pocket is 0.67yds per dozen.

7. Fabric consumption for the Yoke:


= 2.86yds per dozen……………………………………………………………………………………………….. (G)

So, fabric consumption for the Yoke is 2.86yds per dozen.

Now,

By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G we will get the total fabric consumption per dozen for the order. Here also, we add the fabric wastage%

Total fabric consumption with wastage% for the woven long sleeve shirt is-

= {(A + B + C + D + E + F + G) + Wastage %}

= {(14.32 + 6.41 + 1.50 + 0.35 + 0.55 + 0.67 + 2.86) + 10%}

= (26.66 + 10%) per dozen.

= 29.33yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is 40.997yds per dozen.

As, fabric cost per yds is $3.50 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.33yds × $3.50) = $102.66

Now,

By adding all the following costs with fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen.

Fabric cost per dozen ……………………………………… $102.66 ………………………………. (H)

Printing Cost per dozen ……………………………………..$1.60 ……………………………………… (I)

Embroidery Cost per dozen ……………………………… $4.00 ………………………………………. (J)

Accessories Cost per dozen ………………………………..$1.80 ………………………………………. (K)

Washing cost per dozen ……………………………….…… $24.00……………………………………… (L)

Cost of making (CM)…………………………….…….……. $5.00 ………………………………………. (M)

Commercial cost ……………………………………..………. $0.60 ……………………………………….. (N)

Others cost ……………………………………………….……. $0.20 ……………………………………….. (O)

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So,

Total FOB cost per dozen = (H + I + J + K + L+ M + N + O)

= $ (102.66 + 1.60 + 4.00 + 1.80 + 24.00 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)

= $139.86 per dozen.

In case of factory, we received the order from a buying hose (Here, we got the order from Bangla Apparel Buying House), so we have to pay 10%commission to them for that order.

So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-

= $139.86 per dozen + 10% commission


In factory garments costing, profit% for the factory (here-15%) should be added with total FOB cost per dozen.

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-

= $153.85 + 15%

= $176.92

Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($176.92 / 12) = $14.74

So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $14.74

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How to Calculate Garments Costing for Woven Bottom?Introduction:

A garments business is totally stands on order profit. An order profit can be achieved through a proper costing. A proper costing can be done by using a proper garments costing method. So, ultimately, garments costing method is the heart of readymade garments business. To make an accurate costing of an order, today I will discuss about the method of garments costing for woven bottom.

Method of Garments Costing for Woven Bottom (Factory Costing):

Before starting of a woven bottom costing, a woven garments merchandiser should confirm the following matters:

1. Fabric Cost,2. Embroidery Cost,3. Printing Cost,4. Cost of Making (CM),5. Washing Cost,6. Accessories Cost,7. Commercial Cost,8. Others Cost.

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Important tips***

The very next duty of a woven garments merchandiser is to determine the fabric consumption and costing.

After fabric consumption and costing, all the others necessary cost should be added with fabric cost to achieve total cost of a garment.

To clear all the confusion about the above discussion, now I will present an example for woven bottom costing in the below.

Example:

Suppose,

The Buyer “Metro-Tex” forwards a “Woven Denim Bottom” item order to you with the following specification.

Follow the below measurement chart.

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Now, determine the garments costing (on FOB) for the above order.

Solution:

Fabric width – 58”

(Here, the given fabric width is 58”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric. So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is 58-1 = 57”)

Wastage – 10%

Let,

Fabric Cost per yds- $3.70




Washing Cost per pcs- $2.00 so, washing cost per dozen is – ($2.00 × 12) = $24.00

Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.

1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:


Now,

Body Width,

= 1/2 Thigh with sewing allowance

= 22

Now, from equation (A), we get-

= 24.70yds per dozen………………………………………………… (B)

So, fabrics needed for the body parts is 24.70yds per dozen.

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2. Fabric consumption for the Back Pocket (2pcs):


= 1.68yds per dozen………………………………………………………………..(C)

So, fabrics needed for the back pocket is 1.68yds per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for the Pocket Bag (2pcs):


= 3.37yds per dozen……………………………………………… (D)

So, fabrics needed for the pocket bag is 3.37yds per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for the Belt Loop (5pcs):


= 0.12yds per dozen……………………………………………. (E)

So, fabrics needed for the belt loop is 0.12yds per dozen.

Now,

By adding the equation B, C, D and E we can achieve the total fabrics consumption for the above order (per dozen)-

= (B +C + D + E) yds per dozen

= (24.70 + 1.68 + 3.37 + 0.12) yds per dozen.

= 29.87yds per dozen.

So, total fabric consumption for the above order is 29.87yds per dozen.

As, fabric cost per yds is $3.70 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.87yds × $3.70) = $110.52

Now,

By adding all the following costs with total fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen.

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Fabric cost per dozen ………………………… $110.52 ……………………. (H)

Printing Cost per dozen ………………………$1.40 ……………….………… (I)

Embroidery Cost per dozen ………………… $3.80 …………………………. (J)

Accessories Cost per dozen …………………..$1.70 …………….…………… (K)

Washing cost per dozen ……………………… $24.00………………………… (L)

Cost of making (CM)…………………………… $5.00 …………..…………….. (M)

Commercial cost ………………………….……. $0.60 ………………………….. (N)

Others cost ………………………………….……. $0.20 ………………………….. (O)

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen = (H + I + J + K + L+ M + N + O)

= $ (110.52 + 1.40 + 3.80 + 1.70 + 24.00 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)


In case of factory, we received the order from a buying hose (Here, we got the order from Metro-Tex Buying House), so we have to pay 7%commission to them for that order.

So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-



In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB cost per dozen.

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-

=$157.53 + 10% profit

= $173.28


So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $14.44

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Method of Garments Costing for Knitted Polo Shirt

Introduction:

In garments merchandising, costing is a very important issue. As its importance in garments sector, today its seen that, some buying house make an another department only for costing. The main reason of that is to prepare accurate costing for any order. To make accurate costing you have to know the method of costing, by which you can solve any costing issue without any hesitation.

Method of Garments Costing for Knitted Polo Shirt:

Before starting of a knitted polo shirt garments costing, a knit garments merchandiser must be known about the following matters:

1. Yarn Price,2. Knitting and Washing Cost,3. Dyeing Cost,4. Embroidery Cost,5. Printing cost,6. Accessories Cost,7. Cost of Making (CM),

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8. Commercial Cost,9. Others Cost.

Important tips***

The 2nd duty is to calculate the fabric consumption and costing.

Normally, we calculate the grey fabric consumption.

After completing grey fabric consumption and costing, all the required fabric processing cost (knitting+ washing cost, dyeing cost) should be added with grey fabric cost. After that, we can achieve the actual fabric cost.

At last, all the others necessary cost should be added with actual fabric cost to achieve total cost of a garment.

An example for the knitted polo shirt garments costing method are presented in the below:

Example:

Suppose,

One of the buyers named “Ha-Meem Group” forwards a knitted polo shirt item order (20000pcs) to you with following specification.

100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and Pocket. Where fabric GSM is 170.

1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 220.

Follow the below measurement chart.

Print on Pocket.

Embroidery on Back part.

Follow the below measurement sheet.

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Now, determine the garments costing (On FOB) for the above order.

Solution:

Fabric GSM- 170 for cotton single jersey,

Fabric GSM- 220 for 1 × 1 Rib fabric.

Let,

Yarn Price per kg- $3.90

Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.50

Dyeing Cost per kg- $2.10




Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.

Fabric Consumption:

1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 2.17kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) is 2.17kg per dozen.

2. Fabric consumption for Collar:


= 0.10kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Collar is 0.10kg per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for Cuff:

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= 0.06kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Cuff is 0.06kg per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for Pocket:


= 0.03kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Pocket is 0.03kg per dozen.

5. Fabric consumption for Half- moon:


= 0.03kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Half- moon is 0.035kg per dozen.

Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),

= [{Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumption for Pocket + Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]

= {(2.17 + 0.03 + 0.03) kg + 10%}

= 2.23kg + 10%

= 2.45kg per dozen.

So, cotton single jersey Grey fabrics needed per dozen 2.45kg.

And,

Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),

= {(Fabric consumption for Collar + Fabric consumption for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}

= {(0.10 + 0.06) kg + 10%}

= (0.16kg + 10%)

= 0.18kg per dozen.

So, 1 × 1 Rib Grey fabrics needed per dozen 0.18kg.

Total grey fabric needed to make the polo shirt is – (2.45+ 0.18 = 2.63kg) per dozen

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As yarn price per kg is $3.90 then, total grey fabrics cost per dozen is (2.63kg × $3.90) = $10.26

So, Total grey fabrics cost per dozen is $10.26

Now, adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with grey fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be determined.

So,

Actual fabric cost,

= Total Grey fabric cost + [{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing cost} × Total grey fabric] per dozen

= [$10.26 + {($1.50 + $2.10) × 2.63}] per dozen

= $19.79 per dozen.

So, actual fabric cost per dozen is………. $19.73 ………………….. (A)

Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $3.90 ………………………. (B)

Embroidery cost per dozen ………………… $6.00 ……………………….. (C)

Accessories Cost per dozen……………….…$ 2.00 ………………………… (D)

Cost of making (CM)……………………………. $5.00 ………………………… (E)

Commercial cost …………………………………. $0.55 …………………………. (F)

Others cost …………………………………………. $0.25 ………………………… (G)

Here,

By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen for the above order.

Total FOB cost per dozen = (A +B + C + D+ E + F + G)

= $ (19.73 + 3.90 + 6.00 + 2.00 + 5.00 + 0.55 + 0.25)

= $37.43 per dozen.

So, total FOB cost per dozen is $37.43

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Normally, in case of factor costing, it should be think that, as we have received the order from a buying house (Here, we got the order from Ha-meem Group’s Buying House), so we have to pay 8%commission to them for that order.

So, in this condition, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-


= $40.42 per dozen.

In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB cost per dozen.

So,

Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($40.42 + 10%) = $44.46


So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment of the above order is $3.71

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Factors Affecting Garments CostingIntroduction:

In garments manufacturing sector, a business is totally depends on garments costing. But there’s some key factors which has considerable affect on garments costing. As its importance on garments business, today I will present those factors which affect on garments costing.

Factors affecting garments costing:

There are some factors which directly affects on garments costing. Those are in the following:

1. Fabrication,2. Size specification,3. Fabric consumption,4. Fabric color,5. CM (Cost of making),6. Trimmings and Accessories,7. Print,8. Embroidery,9. Wash,10. Order quantity,11. Test requirement,12. Inspection,13. GSP,14. L/C payment term,15. Commercial cost,16. Profit,17. Shipment date.

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All the above key factors for garments costing are discussed in the below:

1. Fabrication:

Before providing costing of an order to the buyer, a garments merchandiser must take clear idea regarding the fabrication from the buyer. In case of woven garments fabrication it can be 10%cotton denim, 2/1 RHT twill, Stretch denim etc and in case of Knit garments it can be Jersey, Piquet etc.

2. Size specification:

It’s an important point for garments costing. After receiving an order, a garments merchandiser must confirm the correct size specification given by the buyer with order. Occasionally it’s seen that, PO sheet has come with different size which was not during the costing.

3. Fabric consumption:

Fabric consumption is another one which has so much importance on garment costing. Here, a garments merchandiser must count all the required fabrics needed for making that garment such as- Body fabric, Rib, Neck tape, Appliqué and others fabric with wastage.

4. Fabric color:

Here, a garment merchandiser must confirm the fabric color by discussing with the buyer, that how many colors in the particular style of garments and also confirm color wise order quantity ratio.

5. CM (Cost of making):

CM or cost of making must be fixed after discussing with production department. It varies depends on required machine quantity and output quantity.

6. Trimmings and Accessories:

In this case, a garment merchandiser has to calculate required trimmings and accessories needed for completing the order. Here, one important thing is that, merchandiser should calculate the price of trimmings and accessories individually to reduce mistake.

7. Print:

If the garments have print, then a garment merchandiser must follow the clear art work of that, also confirm about the mentioned print quality and dimension. It will help the merchandiser to make accurate costing.

8. Embroidery:

If the garments have embroidery then a garment merchandiser must confirm correct price quotation after discussing with suppliers.

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9. Wash:

It’s another important one for garments costing. In running garments business, maximum garments have wash process. So, here a garment merchandiser must confirm correct wash price after discussing with wash factory.

10. Order quantity:

Here, a garments merchandiser must try to take information regarding order quantity from the buyer. Sometimes it’s seen that, garments price varies according to order quantity.

11. Test requirement:

Test requirement of garments is an important point for garments costing. A garment merchandiser must confirm about it by discussing with buyer before providing final costing.

12. Inspection:

Here, a garment merchandiser must confirm about the inspection terms by discussing with the buyer, that who will inspect the goods. If third party inspection, then who will pay their charges.

13. GSP:

GSP is an important factor which affects in garments costing. A garments merchandiser must confirm about GSP by discussing with the buyer that buyer has needed the GSP or not.

14. L/C payment term:

Here, garments merchandiser must collect a previous L/C copy from buyer and discuss with buying commercial department regarding all the terms along with payment.

15. Commercial cost:

Normally, buying house has added 3% of total purchase (Fabric cost + Accessories cost + others item cost) as commercial cost if the L/C payment term is as sight. If the L/C is 60 days deferred, then you can add 7.5% additional cost of total price and it will be 15% for 90 days L/C deferred.

16. Profit:

Normally in case of buying house, profit added 20% of CM (Cost of making) cost.

17. Shipment date:

is one of the important points for discussing with the buyer. Here a garments merchandiser must confirm the shipment date by discussing with production department.

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How to Calculate Garments Cost of Making (CM)Introduction:

Calculating cost of making (CM) for any garment items is an important factor in garments merchandising. Every garments merchandiser should know the actual calculating method of it. Other-wise, factory may fall in huge loss. As its importance in garments merchandising, today I will present an easy method for calculating cost of making (CM) for any garment items.

Garments making

How to Calculate Cost of Making (CM) of Garmnets?

Before calculating cost of making (CM) for any garment items, a garment merchandiser should confirm the following matters:

Factory total expenditure per month (running), it includes factory rent, electricity bill, water bill, commercial cost, transportation, worker & staff wages etc.

Total number of machines in the factory.

Total number of machines required to complete an item.

Targeted production per hour from the existing layout (excluding alter and reject).

Total working day per month.

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Total working hours per day.

Now by applying following formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate the actual cost of garments making.

Cost of making (CM) per pcs,

Now one example is enough to remove all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example:

Suppose,

H.N apparels has received an order of basic T-Shirt item.

Where,

H.N apparels total expenditure per month-30,00,000 taka

Total number of machines in the factory-100

Total number of machines required to complete an item-25

Targeted production per hour from the existing layout-180

Total working day per month-26

Total working hours per day-08

Now calculate the cost of making(CM) of the mentioned item.

Solution:

Cost of making (CM) per pcs,

= 20.03 taka per pcs

= (20.03 × 12) taka per dozen

= 240.38 taka per dozen

= 240.38/78 (in dollar) {1dollar-78taka (running)}

= $3.08 per dozen

So, the cost of making (CM) per dozen basic T-Shirt is $3.08

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GSM Calculation for Woven FabricIntroduction:

GSM (Gram per square meter) is an important matter in textile sector. Higher GSM fabric is heavier and lower GSM fabric is lighter. A woven garments merchandiser must have to know the GSM calculation method to ensure the right GSM fabric that ordered by the buyer (though suppliers are regularly mentioned about the fabric GSM).

GSM Calculation for Woven Fabric

GSM:

GSM stands at Gram per square meter. It is the weight of fabric in one gram per square meter. It’s unit is gm/m2.

Crimp Factor:

Crimp percentage or crimp factor is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a percentage.

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Woven Fabric GSM Calculation Method:

During calculating woven fabric GSM from fabric construction, we have needed the following formula.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

Example:

Suppose,

A woven fabric construction is like that-

Now, calculate the fabric GSM.

Solution:

From the given fabric construction we can see that,

Warp count- 50

Weft count- 40

EPI (Ends per inch) – 130

PPI (Picks per inch) – 60

Warp crimp factor- 1.2

Weft crimp factor- 1.0

Now, by applying all the data in the required formula, we can easily find out the above woven fabric GSM.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

= (3.12 + 1.5) × 23.5

= 108.57

So, above woven fabric GSM is 108.57

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How to Calculate Fabric GSM with GSM Cutterintroduction

Fabric GSM plays an important role in garments manufacturing sector. As a garments merchandiser everyone have to know about the fabric GSM calculation method. It should be noted here that, fabric GSM can be calculated by using GSM cutter or sometimes without using GSM cutter. Here, I have presented the fabric GSM calculation method by using GSM cutter and another one (GSM calculation method without using GSM cutter) has discussed in my previous article.

Fabric GSM Calculation

GSM:

The meaning of GSM is “gram per square meter”, which unit is (gm/m2).

GSM Cutter:

GSM cutter is a circular cutter. GSM cutter cuts 1/100 of a square meter of fabric area.

GSM Calculation Method Using GSM Cutter:

GSM calculation method using GSM cutter is not same as we have followed during GSM calculation method without using GSM cutter. Here, we should follow the below steps:

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Firstly, you have to cut 5pcs swatches by sing GSM cutter from the different parts of fabric.

Now, Measure the weight of each cutting swatches with the help of weighing balance in one by one method.

Calculate the average weight of cutting swatches.

Now, by multiplying “average cutting swatch weight” with 100, we can easily get the actual fabric GSM.

Note: Area of round GSM cutter is (1/100) m2

Now, one example is enough to clear the above discussion which has given in the following.

Example:

Suppose,

5 pcs cutting swatches weights are 1.2gm, 1.4gm, 1.3gm, 1.1gm and 1.5gm respectively.

Now,

Average weight of cutting swatch,

= 1.3gm

In this situation, we have to multiply average cutting swatch weight by 100 to get actual fabric GSM.

So,

Fabric GSM = Average cutting swatch weight × 100

= 1.3 × 100

= 130

So, fabric GSM by using GSM cutter is 130e Fabric GSM with GSM Cutter

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GSM Calculation Method Without Using GSM CutterIntroduction:

Normally a garments merchandiser does not follow the fabric manufacturing systems. Apparel merchandiser ordered the knitting section by providing the required instructions (Fabric type, GSM) given by the buyer. As a result, merchandiser can’t give surety about the contained fabric GSM. If merchandiser will follow some GSM calculation method, can easily identify the correct fabric GSM. As its importance in garments merchandising today I will present GSM calculation method in this article.

GSM Calculation method without using GSM Cutter

As a garments merchandiser everyone have to know about the GSM calculation method. GSM can be calculated by using GSM cutter or sometimes without using GSM cutter.

GSM:

GSM means gram per square meter. Its unit is (gm/m2). In knitting fabric it is the main parameter. It is controlled by loop length. If loop length increases GSM will decrease and vice versa.

GSM Cutter:

GSM cutter is one kinds of circular cutter, which cuts 1/100 of a square meter of fabric area.

GSM Calculation Method without Using GSM Cutter:

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During calculating fabric GSM without using any GSM cutter, we should follow the following steps:

At first, cut 5pcs (12cm × 12cm) fabric sample from the different portion of fabric. (Here 12cm is in length and 12cm is in width).

Measure the weight of each sample in one by one method.

Now, calculate the average weight of fabric sample.

Also calculate the fabric sample area by multiplying length and width.

Now by putting “average sample weight” and “fabric sample area” in the following formula, we can get easily the fabric GSM.

GSM calculation formula (in case of without using GSM cutter),

Example:

Suppose,

5pcs (12cm × 12cm) size fabric sample weights are 1.8gm, 2gm, 1.85gm, 1.90gm and 1.95gm respectively.

Now,

Average weight of (12cm × 12cm) size fabric sample is,

= 1.9gm

And,

Sample fabric area = fabric sample length × fabric sample width

= (12 × 12)

= 144cm2

Now,

GSM (in case of without using GSM cutter),

= 131.94

So, fabric GSM is 131.94

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Air Freight Charge Calculation System for Garments Import-ExportIntroduction:

Normally freight charge under air shipment of garments is totally depends on both gross weight or actual weight and cargo weight. If the gross weight or actual weight is higher than cargo weight, then freight charge is fixed on the basis of gross weight. Again, if cargo weight is higher than gross weight, then freight charge is fixed on the basis of cargo weight. That means, among two weights, gross weight and cargo weight, which one will be higher, freight charge will be fixed on that.

Garments Import-Export with Air

Chargeable weight is an equilibrium point, where actual weight and cargo weight are totally balanced. But there is an important reason that why freight charge under air shipment is totally depends on both gross weight or actual weight and cargo weight.

One example is enough to remove the confusion about it.

Suppose, you export 500kg cotton and another one export 500kg iron under air shipment. Your exported cotton needed more space than iron, but weight is the same. In this case, if air freight is charged on the basis of cargo weight (on the basis of space) then you has to pay more amount of charge than iron exported person. As a result, actual weight or gross weight and cargo weight both are in consideration during freight charge, which one is higher, that’s chosen for freight charge.

So, chargeable weight calculation system in air freight is discussed in the following:

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At first you have to find the cargo measurements with length, width and height. Then calculate the CBM of cargo by using following formula-

CBM calculation for cargo = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)

After calculating CBM of cargo, it’s divided by 0.006. This result is termed as cargo weight. Now, cargo weight is compared to the gross weight or actual weight. Which one is higher, will consider as a chargeable weight.

Now I will provide two examples to remove the all confusion about the above explanation.

Example-01:

Suppose,

Gross weight or actual weight is 200kg,

Cargo length is 100cm = 1m, Cargo width is 100cm = 1m, Cargo height is 100cm = 1m.

Find out the chargeable weight for air freight of this shipment.

Solution:

Now,

We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)

= (1 × 1 × 1) m3

= 1m3

Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,

Cargo weight = Cargo CBM (m3)/ 0.006

= 1/ 0.006

= 166.67kg.

So, the gross weight or actual weight is 200kg and cargo weight is 166.67kg. Among two weights, gross weight or actual weight is higher than cargo weight. As a result gross weight or actual weight will be chosen for chargeable weight for this shipment.

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Example-02:

Suppose,

Gross weight or actual weight is 140kg,

Cargo length is 98cm = 0.98m, Cargo width is 95cm = 0.95m, Cargo height is 96cm = 0.96m.

Find out the chargeable weight for air freight of this shipment.

Solution:

Now,

We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)

= (0.98 × 0.95 × 0.96) m3

= 0.89376 m3

Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,

Cargo weight = Cargo CBM (m3)/ 0.006

= 0.89376/ 0.006

= 148.96kg.

In this shipment, the gross weight or actual weight is 140kg and cargo weight is 148.96kg. Among two weights, cargo weight is higher than gross weight or actual weight. As a result cargo weight will be chosen for chargeable weight for this shipment.

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Easy Method of CBM Calculation Under LCL Sea ShipmentIntroduction:

A freight forwarder charges the freight cost on the basis of CBM. CBM means cubic meter. In garments sector, it’s a known term for all the merchandisers. Accurate CBM calculation has a great importance on reducing shipping cost. Because, if the cargo is full container loaded (FCL), then you have to pay the freight charge in full container load (FCL) basis, but if the cargo is less container loaded then you have to pay the freight charge in Less container load (LCL) basis. As its importance in merchandising, today I will discuss about the all parts of CBM (Cubic Meter) calculation.

CBM (Cubic Meter)

CBM Calculation Under LCL Sea Shipment:

Before starting the CBM calculation, at first you have to find out the length, width and height of a carton, here you should also find out the total quantity of carton for an order.

If the length, width and height measurements are in “inch” unit, then you have to convert these into “centimeter (cm)” unit by multiplying 2.54 (as we know, 1 inch=2.54cm).

After converting from “inch” unit to “centimeter (cm)” unit, now you have to convert these into “meter (m)” unit by dividing 100 (as we know, 1m=100cm).

Now, yours all length, width and height are in “meter (m)” unit.

In this situation, you must follow the following formula,

CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)…………… (1)

CBM calculation for total carton of an order = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total number of carton quantity ……………… (2)

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Now I will clear all the above explanation by providing an example with solution.

Example of CBM Calculation:

Suppose,

Total cartoon quantity of an order is 5000 (Every carton is in sane measurement).

Length for each carton is 22”,

Width for each carton is 15”,

Height for each carton is 6”.

Now, calculate the CBM for shipping an order.

Solution:

Carton length = 22” = (22 × 2.54) cm = 55.88cm = (55.88/100) m = 0.5588m.

Carton width = 15” = (15 × 2.54) cm = 38.1cm = (38.1/100) m = 0.381m.

Carton height = 6” = (6 × 2.54) cm = 15.24 cm = (15.24/100) m =0.1524m.

Now by applying formula number (1), we have-

CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)

= (0.5588 × 0.381 × 0.1524) m3

= 0.03244639 m3

Now finally applying formula number (2), we have-

CBM calculation for total cartoon = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total number of carton quantity

= (0.03244639 × 5000) m3

=162.23195 m3

So, CBM calculation for 5000 carton is 162.23195 m.

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Types of Wash Applied in GarmentIntroduction:

Garment washing has brought out a greatest change in today’s readymade garments business. It is applied in today’s most of the garments either its woven or knit or sweater. There are different types of wash applied in garment which are mentioned in this article with images.

Different types of wash applied in garments

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Different Types of Wash Applied in Apparel:

Various types of wash which are applied in garment have pointed out in the below:

1. Rinse wash,2. Resin wash,3. Softener silicon wash,4. Garment wash or normal wash,5. Enzyme wash,6. Medium stone enzyme wash,7. Heavy stone enzyme wash,8. Bleaching wash,9. Enzyme bleach wash,10. Acid wash,11. Towel bleach wash,12. Tie wash,13. Rubber ball wash.

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All the above washes have explained in the following with images:

1. Rinse wash:

The wash which is done by using water and slightly detergent with anti back stainer is called rinse wash. Here, the shade is especially dark and not too much difference from its raw denim. This types of wash has some problem, among those back staining is the most common.

Rinse washed garments

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2. Resin wash:In case of resin wash, we used resin in the bath. At first we add resin in the bath then loading the apparel for certain period of time. Finally we can get hard garment.

Resin washed garments

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3. Softener silicon wash:In case of silicon wash we used softener and silicon together. Here, we used silicon for surface slipper and softener for soft of cellulose. As a result, we can get both handfeel and softness for the garment. The softener can be cationic and nonionic.

Softener or silicon washed garments

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4. Garment wash or normal wash:This type of wash is the combination of rinse wash and softener wash. Here, first time completed rinse wash and then softener wash.

Normal washed garments

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5. Enzyme wash:

The wash where enzyme is used called enzyme wash. Here, we used enzyme for abrasion of garments. Enzyme washed garments are looking very nice to see. The enzyme may be neutral or acidic according to the requirements of shade.

Enzyme washed garments

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6. Medium stone enzyme wash:In case of medium stone enzyme wash we used enzyme and pumic stone together for washing. Here, we have to avoid the damages of edges. Heavy abrasion produced in this wash. This wash is specially applied for denim and time required about 20-30 minutes.

Medium stone enzyme wash

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7. Heavy stone enzyme wash:Here also used enzyme and stone together for washing. But time required about 50-60 minutes to achieve the required shade.

Heavy stone enzyme wash

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8. Bleaching wash:

Bleaching wash means that bleaching chemical is used in water while washing in a tumble washer. Strict washing time is a requirement with such kinds of wash. Otherwise the garment may be over bleached and the color cannot be reversed.

Bleached garments

9. Enzyme bleach wash:In case of enzyme bleach wash, we used enzyme process first then bleaching process by using chlorine or non chlorine bleach. The shade of enzyme bleaching wash is light. Here more color will be cut down. So, extra caution should be needed here.

Enzyme bleach washed garments

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10. Acid wash:Acid wash is done by using potash and pumic stone. At first we have to dip the stone in the potash solution then slight dry the stone and wash in a garment washing machine. Finally we will achieve an uneven look on the garment.

Acid washed garments

11. Towel bleach wash:

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Towel bleach wash is done by using Japanese bleach and towel. At first we have to dip towel in bleach solution. After squeezing, those towels loading into the drying machine and tumbled with the garment. Finally we get uneven look in the garment.

Towel bleach washed garments

11. Towel bleach wash:

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Towel bleach wash is done by using Japanese bleach and towel. At first we have to dip towel in bleach solution. After squeezing, those towels loading into the drying machine and tumbled with the garment. Finally we get uneven look in the garment.

Towel bleach washed garments

13. Rubber ball wash:

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Rubber ball wash is nothing but a garment and softener wash. In this process, garment will be softer and at the same time seam abrasion will come. We used this type of wash if needed more handfell for the garment.

Rubber ball washed garments

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How to Calculate Sewing Time By Using Machine RPM?Introduction:

Sewing time calculation is an important matter in readymade garments sector. It’s not a tough task that we have normally seemed. As its importance in garments manufacturing, today I will present here an easy method for calculating sewing time by using machine RPM (Revolution per minute).

Method of Sewing Time Calculation by Using Machine RPM:

Before calculating garments sewing time by using machine RPM (Revolution per minute), an industrial engineer should confirm about the below points:

1. Stitch per inch (SPI) of the garments,2. Seam length in inch of the garments,3. Sewing machine RPM (Revolution per minute).

Now by using the below formula, an industrial engineer can easily calculate the required garments sewing time from machine RPM (revolution per minute).

Machine cycle time or sewing time (in second),

Now, I will present here an example to clear all the confusions from the above discussions.

Example:

Suppose, for a lock stitch sewing machine, machine RPM is 1500. How much time needed to sew a 40” super imposed seam, where stitch per inch (SPI) is 10?

Solution:

Here,

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Sewing machine RPM= 1500,

Seam length in inch= 40”,

Stitch per inch (SPI) = 10.

Now,

Machine cycle time or sewing time (in second),

= 16sec.

So, machine cycle time or sewing time is 16sec.

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How to Calculate Minute Cost of Sewing Line in Apparel Sector?Introduction:

Minute cost calculation for the garments sewing line is too much needy to earn maximum profit from an export order. But it is not an easy task that we have normally seemed. An industrial engineer has to do this task by maintaining various terms and conditions. As its importance in readymade garments sector today I will present here two easy methods for calculating minute cost for the sewing line.

Sewing line in garment industry

Method for Calculating Cost Per Minute of Sewing Line in Garments Industry:

An industrial engineer can easily calculate cost per minute of sewing line in apparel industry by following the two different formulas. Those are in the below:

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1. Cost per minute of sewing line,

2. Cost per minute of sewing line,

Now, two examples are enough to clear all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example for the formula number-01:

Suppose, in Nishat garments ltd. total salary of sewing line for one day is 10000taka, no. of manpower’s for 20 machines is 30 and line efficiency is 50%, then calculate cost per minute in 8 working hours of each sewing line for that garments.

Solution:

Here,

Total salary of sewing line for one day = 10000 taka,Total no. of manpower’s = 30,Total working hours = 8,Line efficiency= 50% = 0.5

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= 1.39 taka

So, cost per minute for each sewing line of nishat garments is 1.39 taka.

Example for the formula number-02:

Suppose, in Abonty fashion ltd. actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers is 15000, total garments produced per day is 400, where standard allowed minutes (SAM) for the garments is 20. Then calculate cost per minute of each sewing line for that garments.

Solution:

Here,

Actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers = 15000,

Total no. of garments produced = 400,

Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) for the garments = 20

Now,

Cost per minute of sewings line,

= 1.875 taka

So, Cost per minute of sewing line is 1.875 taka.

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How to Calculate Sewing Line Capacity of an Apparel Industry?Introduction:

Sewing line capacity is an important matter in ready-made garments sector. By calculating sewing line capacity we can easily calculate the production capacity of any factory. As its importance, today I will present here the calculation method of sewing line’s capacity of an apparel industry.

Sewing line capacity

Calculation method of sewing line capacity in apparel industry:

To calculate sewing lines capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer has needed the following information:

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1. No. of sewing machines in the line,2. Workers absence percentage of that line,3. Daily working hours of that factory,4. Line efficiency of that factory,5. Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for the produced item.

Now, by using the below formula, an industrial engineer can easily calculate the sewing line’s capacity of the factory.

Sewing line capacity (In pcs),

Example:

Suppose, in Abonty Fashions, a sewing line is running for producing full sleeve shirt with 30 machines at 8hrs working day, where sewing line’s efficiency is 60% and worker absent percentage is 5%.

Find out the sewing lines capacity for the above factory.

Solution:

Here,

No. of sewing machines in the line= 30,

Workers absence percentage of that line= 5%,

Daily working hours of that factory= 8,

Line efficiency of that factory= 60%,

Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for full sleeve shirt= 25.

So,

Sewing line capacity (In pcs),

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= 328.32

=328pcs

So, sewing line’s capacity per day for the above factory is 328pcs.

How to Estimate Production Capacity of a Garment Factory?Introduction:

Production capacity estimation for a garment factory is an important issue in readymade garments sector. It plays an important role to the buyer for selecting right vendor for their orders. How much a garment factory can produce their items per day has estimated here. As its importance in garments manufacturing sector, today I will present here the production capacity estimation method for a garment factory.

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Production Capacity:

Production capacity of a garment factory is totally related with machine (hr) capacity, line efficiency of that factory and standard allowed minute (SAM) of produced item. For achieving accurate production capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer should confirm accurate cutting room capacity, finishing room capacity and washing capacity also.

Production in garment factory

Production Capacity Calculation Method of a Garment Factory:

For calculating production capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer should confirm the below information:

Machine (hr) capacity per day,

Individual product’s standard allowed minute (SAM),

Line efficiency of garment factory or factory efficiency.

Now, by using the following formula, an industrial engineer can easily calculate production capacity of a garment factory.

Production capacity (Pcs),

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Example:

Suppose, Noman Fashion Ltd. has 10 sewing lines, each sewing line has 20 machines. They have to produce basic knitted polo shirt items at 8hrs working day, (where machine-hr capacity is 1600hrs and line efficiency is 60%).

So, find out the production capacity of that factory.

Solution:

Here,

Machine (hr) capacity per day= 1600hrs,

Line efficiency of garment factory= 60%,

Standard allowed minute (SAM) for knitted polo shirt= 20

So,

Production capacity (Pcs),

= 2880pcs

So, garments production capacity of the above factory is 2880pcs per day.

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How to Calculate Machine Capacity in Apparel Industry?Introduction:

Machine (hr) capacity calculation is not a tough task that we have normally seemed. It is an important matter in readymade garments sector. To calculate production capacity of a garment industry, machine (hr) capacity must be needed. As its importance in garments manufacturing sector, today I will present here the calculation method of machine (hr) capacity in apparel industry.

Machine (hr) Capacity:

Machine (hr) capacity of a garment factory is totally related with number of sewing lines, sewing machines and working hours per day. Its directly proportional to the multiple result of those i.e. number of sewing line, sewing machine and working hours per day.

Sewing machine capacity

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Machine Capacity Calculation in Garments Industry:

For calculating machine (hr) capacity in garments industry, we have needed the following information:

Sewing line in that factory,

Machines in each sewing line,

Working hours per day.

Now, by using the below formula, we can easily calculate the machine (hr) capacity in apparel industry.

Machine capacity,

= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line × Working hours per day

Example:

Suppose, Nishat Fashions Ltd. has 10 sewing lines where each sewing line has 20 machines and working hours per day for the factory is 8, then calculate the machine capacity for that factory.

Solution:

Here,

No. of sewing line in that factory= 10

No. of machines in each sewing line= 20

Working hours per day= 8

So,

Machine capacity,

= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line × Working hours per day

= 10 × 20 × 8

= 1600hrs.

So, Machine (hr) capacity for the above garments factory is 1600hrs.

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Relation of Production Planning and Control (PPC) with Other DepartmentsIntroduction:

Production planning and control (PPC) plays an important role in garments manufacturing business. It’s very good news that, maximum factories are now creating PPC department. Production planning and control (PPC) has to build-up strong relationship with the other departments to achieve maximum output from the export order. As its importance in ready-made garments sector today I will present here the important relationship of production planning and control (PPC) with other departments.

Production Planning and Control:

PPC means production planning and control. Production planning and control (PPC) department is related with not only for planning garments production but also controlling the production. The main functions of production planning and control (PPC) are follow-up and execution of garment export order, job scheduling, material resource planning, facility location, loading production, process selection and planning, capacity planning, line planning, estimating quantity and costs of production.

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Diagram of Production Planning and Control

Relation of Production Planning and Control (PPC) with other departments:

Production planning and control (PPC) department has to connect with various departments, those are mentioned in the below:

1. Top management,2. Yarn department,3. Knitting department,4. Dyeing and washing department,5. Garments merchandising department,6. Commercial department,7. Cutting department,8. Stitching department,9. Finishing and packaging department.

Functions of production planning and control (PPC) with all the above departments have discussed in the following:

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1. Top management:

Top management consists of Managing Director (M.D) and General Manager (GM). Production planning and control (PPC) department plays an important role with the top management by providing all the information to them.

2. Yarn department:

Function of yarn department is to in-house necessary yarn depending on yarn booking chart. Here, production planning and control (PPC) department contacts with yarn department to ensure all the requirements about the yarn according to buyer’s instruction.

3. Knitting department:

Knitting department ensures all the knitting procedures according to fabric consumption chart. PPC department follow-ups the knitting department to produce required amount of fabrics in its definite time with right quality and quantity.

4. Dyeing and washing department:

It’s an important department for PPC team which dyed and washed all the knitted fabrics according to buyer’s instruction. Here, PPC team ensures the perfect dyeing shade.

5. Garments merchandising department:

Here, PPC team ensures the garments merchandising department about the overall situation of the garment export order.

6. Commercial department:

Commercial department is related with all kinds of financial support for the export order. It also deals with all the banking functions such as L/C opening, preparing shipping documents etc. Here, PPC team ensures all the financial matters by discussing with top management.

7. Cutting department:

Here, production planning and control (PPC) department contacts with cutting department to ensure all the cutting procedure in its definite item.

8. Stitching department:

Production planning and control (PPC) department contacts with stitching department to ensure the total garments production according to shipping date.

9. Finishing and packaging department:

Here, production planning and control (PPC) department ensures the perfect finishing and packaging of goods so that it can’t hamper during inspection and shipping.

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How to Estimate Line efficiency of Garment ProductionIntroduction:

Line efficiency is a known term in the readymade garments sector. Line efficiency plays an important role to produce target garments production. Normally it’s done by industrial engineers. As its importance in garments manufacturing, today I will present here the estimation method of line efficiency for a garment production.

Line Efficiency of a Garment Production

Calculation Method for Line Efficiency of a Garment Production:

An industrial engineer has to confirm the following items before starting the calculation method for line efficiency of a garment production:

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Production output from the line (Pcs),

Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for garments,

Total number of operators in the line,

Total working hours.

Now, by applying all the above items in the below formula, an industrial engineer can easily estimate the line efficiency of a garment production.

Line Efficiency (%),

Now, one example is enough to remove all the confusions from the above discussion.

Example:

In Zara Fashion Ltd. a garment production line produced 300pcs Sweet shirt garments in 45 Standard allowed minutes (SAM) by using 40 operators, where working hours was 8.

Now, estimate the lines efficiency for the mentioned garment production.

Solution:

Here,

Production output from the line- 300pcs

Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for Sweet shirt garments – 45

Total number of operators in the line – 40

Total working hours – 8hrs

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Now, by using the following formula, industrial engineer can estimate easily the line’s efficiency of the mentioned garment production.

Line Efficiency (%),

= 70.3%

So, lines efficiency of the mentioned sweet shirt garments production stands at 70.3%

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How to Increase Sewing Operator EfficiencyIntroduction:

In garments manufacturing sector, sewing operator plays an important role. Sewing operator efficiency has a great impact in achieving higher garments production, ultimately which helps to respect the shipping date. As its importance, today I will present here some important key points which helps to increase the sewing operator efficiency.

Operator in sewing operation

Key Points for Increasing Sewing Operator Efficiency:

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The following are the most important key points for increasing sewing operator efficiency.

1. Training sewing operator,2. Motivation,3. Selection of expert operator for critical process,4. Development of working methods,5. Set-up perfect machine layout,6. Continuous feeding to the operators,7. Remove unnecessary interruption during working,8. Set-up target for the operator,9. Avoid excessive overtime to the operator.10. All the above points have discussed in the below:

1. Training sewing operator:

Operator is the main in garments manufacturing factory. It’s seen that, less expert sewing operator takes more time but provides lower outputs in garments manufacturing. So, to increase sewing operator efficiency, training to sewing operator is must.

2. Motivation:

Operator motivation plays an important role on increasing operator efficiency. So, to increase operator efficiency, factory authority should motivate the operator by arranging different cultural programmes, bonus for achieving targeted effort.

3. Selection of expert operator for critical process:

It’s an important key point to increase operator efficiency. If expert operator is selected for most critical processes then rest of the process of that style will be easy and ultimately operator efficiency will be increased.

4. Development of working methods:

Working method should be developed by using work study and motion study for increasing operator efficiency. Sometimes it’s seen that, for a garments style, several unnecessary motions have kept in line which ultimately decreases the operator efficiency. So, in that case, unnecessary motions should be removed for increasing operator efficiency.

5. Set-up perfect machine layout:

A perfect machine layout for a particular style garments helps to complete 50% of total work for that style. So, perfect machine layout is must to increase operator efficiency. Perfect machine layout helps to minimize the material handling time as much as possible.

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6. Continuous feeding to the operators:

It’s a very important one to increase operator efficiency. When a sewing operator has assigned with less work content then he has so much idle times. In this situation, you have to pass more works to him for increasing operator efficiency.

7. Remove unnecessary interruption during working:

It’s one of the important issues for decreasing operator efficiency. Sometimes it’s seen that, sewing operator is interrupted by supervisors and quality controllers, also submitted defective pieces to rectify, which consumes time and decrease operator efficiency. So, unnecessary interruption should be removed during working for increasing operator efficiency.

8. Set-up target for the operator:

Target set-up for the sewing operator is one of the useful factors for increasing sewing operator efficiency. In this case, first have to set an achievable target according to the sewing operator’s skill level, so that they can touch the given target. This system is very helpful for increasing operator efficiency.

9. Avoid excessive overtime to the operator:

Excessive overtime to the operator can easily decrease the operator efficiency. So, if you want to achieve better output from the sewing operator, then you must avoid excessive overtime to the sewing operator and confirm one day off for weekly.

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Factors Affecting on Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) In Apparel Industry

Introduction:

Standard Allowed Minuets (SAM) is an important matter in garments manufacturing sector. Normally standard allowed minutes (SAM) is calculated by industrial engineers. Sometimes it’s affected by a few key factors, which change the value of standard allowed minutes (SAM). Those key factors have discussed in this article.

Factors Affecting on Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM):

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There are some factors which directly affects on standard allowed minutes (SAM). Those are in the following:

1. Number of operations,2. Length of seams,3. Type of fabrics,4. Stitching accuracy,5. Sewing technology.

All the above factors have discussed in the below:

1. Number of Operations:

Number of operations is an important factor for calculating standard allowed minutes (SAM). If number of operations of an item is more, then standard allowed minuets (SAM) will be higher number. Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for polo shirt is not similar as basic T-shirt.

2. Length of Seams:

If seam length is higher, then standard allowed minuets (SAM) will be higher. In the other case, if seam length is shorter, then standard allowed minuets (SAM) also lower. Length o seams is directly proportional to standard allowed minuets (SAM).

3. Type of fabrics:

Fabric types is one of the most important key factor which directly affects on standard allowed minuets (SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) for denim fabrics is not similar as knitted fabrics. In case of denim fabrics, standard allowed minuets (SAM) is more than knitted items.

4. Stitching accuracy:

Stitching accuracy is another one which has huge impact on standard allowed minuets (SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) is not same for all types of stitching accuracy. In case of hand stitching accuracy, standard allowed minuets (SAM) will more than chain stitching.

5. Sewing technology:

Sometimes sewing technology affects on standard allowed minuets (SAM). Due to using of new sewing technology, standard allowed minuets (SAM) can be increased. Because, sewing operators are not habitual with new sewing technology. As a result, he takes more times to complete the processes.

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Difference between Fashion and StyleIntroduction:

Fashion and Style are two common terms which are now vastly used by the young generation, though they are totally confused about it, cannot differentiate between fashion and style. Just not this young generation, there are so many who still don’t know the difference between fashion and style. “Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself” said by Oscar de la Renta.

Fashion and Style

What is Fashion?

Fashion is a very versatile matter and trendy right now, which is being featured in magazines, on TV and on the fashion runways. In another view, Fashion is also the newest creations made by designers, which are brought by only a few numbers of people. Fashion can be anything such like clothes, shoes, make-up and accessories etc which is being made popular by fashion house, models, actors and actresses.

What is Style?

Style is something which is unique to everyone. Style is the persons own choice in clothes, accessories and others. Style is not totally dependent on clothing; it can be related with anything that makes the person looking stylish. In another view, style is the extension of fashion which does not change as fashion.

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Difference between Fashion and Style:

Fashion Style1 It is versatile. It is unique.2 It is the newest creations made by designers. It is the person’s newest creations by applying

his/ her own choice.3 Fashion must be accepted by the society or

group of people.Style can be accepted by the specific group of people.

4 It is being made popular by fashion house, models, actor and actress etc.

The person is enough for increasing the popularity of a style.

5 It is changeable. It is constant.6 It is perfect where no limitation. It’s not perfect, containing some limitations.7 It is the relationship to the external. It is the relationship to the internal.8 It has strong attraction. It has no attraction as fashion.9 It is countless. It is limited.10 Fashion takes our attention away from

ourselves.Style brings our attention directly to ourselves.

11 It is temporary. It is unique.

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Education

Garments merchandising