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© Project SOUND
Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden
Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants Project SOUND - 2010
© Project SOUND
Vines & Climbers for Classic Gardens
C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake
CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve
Madrona Marsh Preserve
January 2 & 5, 2010
© Project SOUND
What is it about a grandmother’s garden?
© Project SOUND http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
Many of our grandmothers (or great-grandmothers)
planned their gardens between 1900 & 1930’s
© Project SOUND
If this is your Grandmother’s Garden then
you’ll have to wait…
http://imagecache5.art.com/p/LRG/16/1647/9PEGD00Z/t-chiu-victorian-garden.jpg
Victorian Style Garden
© Project SOUND
Edwardian Gardens were very much a
revolt against the Victorian style
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/2930975253_e3036b0a45.jpg?v=0
Edwardian Style Garden
© Project SOUND
http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
The roots of Edwardian Gardens were in the country
© Project SOUND
This period had many
things in common with ours
Natural open spaces (‘The Country’) were becoming rare – and were recalled nostalgically
Gardeners wanted an informal ‘natural look’ for their gardens – many used ‘old-fashioned’ native plants, often exuberantly
Leisure time was treasured – and there wasn’t enough of it
People loved to do as much as possible outdoors
City gardeners had to contend with ‘less than perfect’ views
Irrigation systems often consisted of a hose & spigot
http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
© Project SOUND
http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
In short, we can easily relate to the Edwardian Gardener
© Project SOUND
…and their Edwardian Gardens, which can suggest
ideas for our own (2010) gardens
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/03/Edwardian_garden_(horizontal).jpg
© Project SOUND
One of the first things we
notice is a good use of
vertical space
Low height (foreground) Grass
Groundcover plants
Non-living groundcover
Mid-height (middle ground) Shrubs & sub-shrubs
Hardscape elements (benches, pots, etc)
Taller height (background) Trees & large shrubs
Climbers and the supports for them (arches, trellises, etc.)
http://www.stmarysbramber.co.uk/images/rose_garden.JPG
© Project SOUND
The appropriate use of vertical space was
a key element of Edwardian gardens
http://www.bargatepublications.co.uk/talks/5006.jpg
© Project SOUND
Edwardian gardens used vines & climbers
When planting vines for height, they will need something to climb up.
Options are endless. Arbors, trellises and obelisks are built in several sizes and from many sorts of materials.
Natural materials, such as grapevine, bamboo and willow, work well for the informal garden.
http://www.wrcla.org/cedarprojects/planters/coveredseats.asp
Structures to support vines are
among the easier do-it-yourself
projects – and plans are available
© Project SOUND
Grape & rose arbors were popular features in
Edwardian gardens
http://historichouses.wordpress.com/2008/08/01/sagtikos-manor-west-bay-shore-ny/
Follow Mother Nature; informal, ‘natural’ style for restful urban gardens
Create pleasing places for outdoor living Shady and sunny places Places to sit/dine/etc.
Use native plants creatively – they are pretty, ‘old fashioned’ and don’t require as much water, care
Use valuable space to the max: use fore-, mid- and background-space
© Project SOUND http://thehumanfootprint.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/dscn0023.jpg
© Project SOUND
Our two California native grapes
CA Grape – Vitis californica
‘Roger’s Red’
Desert Wild Grape/S. CA Grape
Vitis girdiana
© Project SOUND
Grape arbors are great because the vines
provide fairly dense shade
http://gallinacanyonranch.com/grape-arbor.jpg
© Project SOUND
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/213/513090893_5eb749323d.jpg
http://www.garysumner.com/20718940_08.jpg
http://www.sundancelandscaping.com/images/projects/54ArboronDeck.jpg
Structures to support grapes (and other fast-growing, dense woody vines) need to be sturdy – don’t under-build them
© Project SOUND
Climbers require some guidance…
http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
Which can be an enjoyable activity if you like the creativity
© Project SOUND
‘Natural’ and ‘Maintained’ arbors were both
used by Edwardian gardeners
The natural arbor is permitted to grow randomly, forming a thick mass of canes.
There is very little upkeep and the vines produce a dense shade.
Since the vines are not pruned annually, there would be significantly fewer grapes produced.
http://www.suelynncotton.com/landscapes.htm
© Project SOUND
‘Maintained’ arbors were used
by Edwardian gardeners,
particularly for grapes
The maintained arbor is covered by vines which are pruned to a two-bud spur-type cordon
Prune vines in Nov/Dec (or when vines are dormant) to a single cordon (trunk).
Each spur should be pruned to contain two or three buds.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/grapearbors/grape.html
© Project SOUND
Once the basic structure is achieved you
just maintain it Prune dormant vines
each year
Remove all new growth except for spurs with 2-3 buds
This type of pruning promotes a healthy grape crop
It also: Keeps the weight down Removes dead/weak
growth - rejuvenates
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/grapearbors/grape.html
© Project SOUND
Where to use
grapes?
Where ever you’d like some shade
http://www.mosaicartbyla.com/sitebuilder/images/front_grape_arbor2-389x284.jpg
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v7WekBeoWLAngMvxp2RHQQ http://harrisonauth.us/
© Project SOUND
Other great uses for grapes….
Along fences, or over walls
As a rustic groundcover; great on slopes
Climbing a chain-link fence
http://wardroadgarden.blogspot.com/2008/07/grape-vines.html
© Project SOUND
http://jacquettamenzies.blogspot.com/2008/07/arts-and-crafts-garden.html
Lattice screens were popular in Edwardian gardens
© Project SOUND
Wood lattice - popular
from 1880’s to 1930’s
Easy to install
Economical
Good for narrow spaces
Looks neat and tidy
Many styles available
Can be used in many ways Fences Free-standing screens Trellises to grow vines On arbors/garden
benches Etc., etc., etc.
http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/woodcare/latticepanelinstallation.htm
http://www.reliablefenceboston.com/nss-folder/pictures/Image121.jpg http://www.freewoodworkingplan.com/index.php?cat=196
© Project SOUND
The many faces
of lattice
http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/5087563/227338-main_Full.jpg
http://bespokewoodcraft.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/Rustic_lattice_screens_1.36583311_large.jpg
http://cdn-write.demandstudios.com/upload//9000/500/90/7/29597.jpg
http://tucsonlandscaping.info/trellis
© Project SOUND
Vigorous native vines
to provide shade &
screen
Grapes – Vitis species
The Virgin’s Bowers -Clematis species
CA Wild Rose - Rosa californica
Morning-glories -Calystegia species
http://www.craftsman-style.info/garden/arbor.htm
© Project SOUND
Island Morning-glory – Calystegia macrostegia
© Project SOUND
* Pacific Morning-glory – Calystegia purpurata ssp. purpurata
© 2007 Neal Kramer
© Project SOUND
* Pacific Morning-glory – Calystegia purpurata ssp. purpurata
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Calystegia%20purpurata
Coastal and foothill regions of CA – more widely distributed than C. macrostegia (coastal & Channel Isl.)
Locally: Hollywood Hills, Griffith Park
Grows in coastal sage scrub of the coastline and the chaparral of the coastal and inland valleys.
© Project SOUND
Pacific Morning-glory – like Island species
Size: slightly smaller and daintier than C. macrostegia 6-8 ft long
6-8 ft wide
Growth form: Half-woody vine; base is
woody, new growth is more herbaceous (at least to begin with)
Upright but sprawling habit – in nature grows through other shrubs or on ground
Foliage: Typical, arrow-shaped leaves
Color: medium to blue-green
© 2009 Barry Breckling
http://www.homegardenguides.com/plant-database/calystegia-purpurata-ssp-purpurata-103165.html
© Project SOUND
Love those flowers!
Blooms: late spring through summer – just when you need a little summer color!
Flowers: Typical morning-glory shape
Small – ½ to ¾ inch across
White or pink; sometimes purple
Great for native pollinators
Seeds: Dark, round seeds in capsule
Soak for 2 hr in warm water prior to planting in fall
© 2009 Barry Breckling
© Project SOUND
Pacific Morning-glory does well in western
L.A. County Soils:
Texture: just about any, including clays
pH: any local
Light: Full sun to part-shade (in hot,
inland gardens)
Water: Young plants: Zone 2-3
Winter: only during dry spells (when rains should normally occur)
Summer: occasional water (Zone 2 will keep it blooming)
Other: clean and prune to shape in fall/winter (dormant)
© 2007 Neal Kramer
© Project SOUND
I can see a Morning-glory in your garden
Along fence-lines; sprawling over walls or fences
Over a pergola or arch – wouldn’t it be nice to sit and enjoy!
As an unusual flowering groundcover – great on N and E-facing slopes
Climbing through a large native shrub
Climbing up a trellis – this species won’t take over!
As an attractive & unique pot plant http://queerbychoice.livejournal.com/627113.html
© Project SOUND
‘Bolinas’ cultivar
rivals non-native
species
Larger, pastel pink flowers
Delicate stems
Does well in gardens
http://www.calfloranursery.com/pages_plants/pages_c/calpurpurbol.html
© Project SOUND
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3417180078_53e343bc10_o.jpg
Can you relate to this photo?
http://www.sanfranciscodays.com/photos/large/california-redwoods.jpg
© Project SOUND
Many native vines like part-shade
http://thebirdguide.com/washington/site_guides/tualatin_hills/tualatin_hills.htm
© Project SOUND
Plants have developed many strategies to
get light when competing with other plants.
Some grow enormously tall
Some latch onto branches in the canopy
Some grow in openings.
One group, the vines, scramble or twine their way to the light using larger and sturdier plants for support.
http://wildgardeners.blogspot.com/2007/12/forest-or-woodland-garden.html
© Project SOUND
What makes a vine a vine?
Often grow in shady/part-shade areas – like forests or dense shrublands
Developed a growth pattern that allows them to reach the light under crowded conditions: Fast growth – allows it to reach the sun quickly in life Long inter-nodes – long elongation allows it to grow up
http://content.answers.com/main/content/img/Gardeners/f0132.jpg http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/images/401/Magnoliophyta/Magnolio
psida/Fabales/Fabaceae/Pueraria_thunbergiana/Vine_MC_.html
http://science.howstuffworks.com/cabbage-info.htm
© Project SOUND
Twining habit: plant senses the supporting structure – differential growth explains the twining
Specialized structures: Tendrils – typical of Pea family, grapes Hold-fasts – typical of Ivy, Virginia Creeper, other wall-climbing vines
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/483149920_2302dd7aac.jpg?v=0
© Project SOUND
Native vines for
shady areas
Regular water (Zone 2-3 to 3) Orange Honeysuckle
Other vines from the Pacific Northwest
Occasional water (Zone 2) Other native honeysuckles
Climbing Penstemon
Native Peas (Lathyrus)
http://kinsellandscape.com/Project_Samples/Gardens/GardenArbor1p.jpg
© Project SOUND
The Honeysuckles (Lonicera species)
Arching shrubs or twining vines Family Caprifoliaceae (Honeysuckle
family) Native to the Northern Hemisphere. ~ 180 species, mostly from China (~
100 species); ~ 20 native to N. America.
Common garden vines: Lonicera periclymenum (European
Honeysuckle) Lonicera japonica (Japanese
Honeysuckle, White Honeysuckle) Lonicera sempervirens (Coral
Honeysuckle, Trumpet Honeysuckle)
Many species have sweetly-scented, bell-shaped flowers that produce a sweet, edible nectar.
© Project SOUND
Honeysuckles (Lonicera species)
Lonicera: named for Adam Lonitzer (1528-1586), a German herbalist, physician and botanist who wrote a standard herbal text that was reprinted many times between 1557 and 1783
Foliage of many species used medicinally
Hummingbirds love the flowers !!!!.
The fruit is a red, blue or black berry containing several seeds; in most species the berries are mildly poisonous, but a few have edible berries, and birds will eat most honeysuckle species’ berries.
The foliage is eaten by the larvae of some butterfly & moth species
© Project SOUND
* Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa
© 2008 Matt Below
© Project SOUND
* Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa
http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Species=ciliosa
© Project SOUND
* Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?2874,2877,2879
A plant of the Pacific Northwest – British Columbia to Northern CA and east to Montana
North slopes and creek and river banks, mostly in moist forested areas
http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Species=ciliosa
© Project SOUND
Orange Honeysuckle -
a twining vine
Size: to 15+ ft long
Growth form: Semi-woody vine/climbing shrub
Creeping, trailing, climbing or twining habit – usually grows through other plants
Old vines can kill trees – kind of like a boa constrictor
Foliage: Medium to dark green, paired
simple leaves
Winter deciduous
Roots: trailing stems will root where they touch the ground
http://www.rainyside.com/features/plant_gallery/nativeplants/Lonicera_ciliosa.html
Gary A. Monroe @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Species=ciliosa
© Project SOUND
Flowers are fantastic
Blooms: in spring - usually May-June in our area
Flowers: Usually red-orange; may be
more yellow-orange
Trumpet-shape – typical of the Honeysuckles
In very showy clusters – this plant is a show-stopper in bloom
Hummingbirds love them!!
Berries:
http://www.rainyside.com/features/plant_gallery/nativeplants/Lonicera_ciliosa.html
© 1997 John Game
© Project SOUND
Orange Honeysuckle is for shady gardens…
Soils: Texture: just about any
pH: any including slightly acidic (under pines, firs)
Light: light shade to quite shady; this is a forest plant
Water: Winter: can take some flooding
Summer: likes moist soil – Zone 2-3 or even 3
Fertilizer: likes organic amendments/ richer soils
Other: cannot take heat
http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Species=ciliosa
© Project SOUND
Orange Honeysuckle lights up dark corners
of the garden
As an attractive pot plant
In a woodsy garden – like many of our ‘mature’ gardens
Sprawling over a wall or fence
As a groundcover under trees that need regular water
Any other place that is shady and gets a little regular water
http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/ofp/lon_cil.htm
© Project SOUND
For garden vines, use
a native alternative…
Cape Honeysuckle - Tecomaria capensis
Native to Australia Orange Honeysuckle – Lonicera ciliosa
http://biology.burke.washington.edu/herbarium/imagecollection.php?Genus=Lonicera&Sp
ecies=ciliosa
© Project SOUND
Throughout the United States and Canada, many other invasive species of vines are choking out native vegetation and harming wildlife.
Some nurseries still sell several of these villains—such as oriental bittersweet, porcelain berry, English ivy and Chinese wisteria—to unsuspecting gardeners.
Most botanists believe that you can help keep this ecological nightmare from getting any worse by planting only native vines.
In the process, you will add eye-catching, flowering plants to your yard that will help you attract birds, butterflies, bees, moths and even some small mammals.
English Ivy – Gardena
Willows Wetland Preserve
© Project SOUND
‘Hate it with a Passion’ vine
Don’t plant it – the Gulf Fritillaries will
get by just fine
© Project SOUND
Invasive alien vines –DO NOT PLANT
Japanese Honeysuckle - Lonicera japonica
Cape ivy - Delairea odorata (Senecio mikanioides)
English ivy, Algerian ivy - Hedera helix & H. canariensis
Bridal creeper - Asparagus asparagoides
Blue Morning-glory - Ipomoea indica
Chinese Creeper; ‘Mile-a-minute’ vine -Mikania micrantha
Passion Vines - Passiflora species
Nasturtium - Tropaeolum majus
Cape Ivy
Bridal Creeper
© Project SOUND
Alien Honeysuckles – the “bad boys” of
invasive vines
Japanese Honeysuckle - Lonicera japonica
Amur Honeysuckle - Lonicera maackii
Very invasive- remove by
cutting, flaming, or burning the plant to root level and repeating on two-week increments until nutrient reserves in the roots are depleted
© Project SOUND
California honeysuckles are not
aggressive vigorous vines…
It’s the non-native species that completely engulfing chain link fences – and give our native species a bad reputation.
CA native species tend to be more like open shrubs that couldn't quite stand up on their own and needed to hold onto a few of their neighbors.
© Project SOUND
Arches can add mystery –
and increase the ‘size’ - of
small gardens
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lovedaylemon/3710741760/
© Project SOUND
Our two locally native
Honeysuckles
Santa Barbara & Southern Honeysuckles Lonicera subspicata vars. denudata &
subspicata
Purple (Pink) Honeysuckle Lonicera hispidula var. vacillans
© Project SOUND
Pink Honeysuckle – Lonicera hispidula var. vacillans
© 2001 Steven Thorsted
© Project SOUND
A honeysuckle with pink flowers…
Blooms Apr-July
Pink-lavender and white flowers – typical Honeysuckle
Flowers in showy clusters at ends of flowering stalks
Flowers are scented
Provide a good nectar source for hummingbirds, bees & butterflies
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/hairyhoneysuckle.html
© Project SOUND
* Chaparral Honeysuckle – Lonicera interrupta
© 2008 Chris Winchell
© Project SOUND
* Chaparral Honeysuckle – Lonicera interrupta
Native to foothills from S. OR to AZ and into N. Mexico
Dry slopes, ridges, mixed forest to 6000’
Chaparral, yellow pine forest, often in shade of trees/shrubs
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Lonicera+interrupta
© Project SOUND
Native Honeysuckles are all similar-looking
Size: 6-10+ ft tall & wide
Growth form: Sprawling deciduous
shrub/vine
Plants stout & woody at base – become many-branched above
Long, flexible stems used in basketry
Foliage: Leaves typical for
Honeysuckle – paired, simple, rounded, medium-green
Roots: roots easily where stems touch soil
© Br. Alfred Brousseau, Saint Mary's College http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/socal/honeysi5.htm
© Project SOUND
Flowers are the most
yellow of the natives
Blooms: Mid-spring to mid-summer
Usually May-June in our area
Flowers: Typical Honey-suckle shape
Color is a bright, clear yellow
Many clusters of flowers – showy in bloom
Kids of all ages love to suck the ‘honey’ (nectar) from the flowers
Hummingbird pollinated
Birds love the fruits
© 2008 Chris Winchell
© Project SOUND
Honeysuckles are
relatively easy to
propagate from seed
Remove seeds from fruits
Use fresh seed for best germination – often will need no cold treatment, but test germination with a few seeds
Soak seeds 24 hr before planting
Stored seed then needs cold-moist treatment for 1-2 mo. (use coffee filter; place in open plastic bag in refrigerator – check for germination) Beatrice F. Howitt © California Academy of Sciences
© Project SOUND
Rooting honeysuckle
cuttings is easy!
The best time is when new growth starts to appear in the spring (if there is green growth, you can do itmost anytime of the year)
Cut a length of green, “semi-soft wood" growth from the end of the vine - be sure to get several sets of leaves.
Strip off the leaves nearest the cut end. Leave one or two leaf nodes bare and one or two sets of leaves left on the vine.
At this point you have a couple of options.
Dip the cutting in rooting hormone and place it in damp potting soil or other rooting medium.
Place the cutting in a vase of water and allow the roots to develop - change the water regularly to prevent rot.
You will soon (1-2 weeks) see the new roots forming, and when you have several good roots (an inch or so long) you are ready to plant your new Honeysuckle vine!
© Project SOUND
Chaparral Honeysuckle takes drier conditions…
Soils: Texture: very adaptable – one of
the better for gardens
pH: any local pH
Light: full sun (on coast) to part-shade; excellent in dappled shade
Water: Winter: takes quite wet, including a
little flooding
Summer: drought tolerant (Zone 1-2) but better as Zone 2; can even take Zone 2-3 in well-drained soils
Fertilizer – best with an organic mulch – it’s a Chaparral plant
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/chaparralhoneysuckle.html
© Project SOUND
Use Chaparral Honeysuckle
instead of L. japonica
Great groundcover on banks
As a flowery accent in mixed hedges/hedgerows
Climbing over an arbor – enjoy the sweet-scented flowers
On a lattice or trellis to hide a ‘less than perfect’ view
As an attractive pot plant
All honeysuckles are great choices for habitat garden
© 2007 Julie Kierstead Nelson
© 2009 Barry Breckling
© Project SOUND
The Honeysuckles – consummate
hummingbird plants
Native honeysuckles are mostly hummingbird pollinated, throughout the world
Are known for their fragrance, medicinal qualities, use in basketry and cordage-making and for their beauty
Feed a wide range of living things including hummingbirds, other birds, bees, moths, butterflies and small animals
Some critters even live in their shady hidey places.
© Project SOUND
Can you relate to
this photo?
Challenges: Narrow space
Shady
Damp in winter; drier in summer
Ugly wall
Neighbors close by – need to screen
Poor air circulation
Consider an Edwardian solution – a vine-covered arch
http://www.cheeseslave.com/2008/06/04/update-on-the-growing-challenge/
© Project SOUND
Native Honeysuckles are a great idea for
narrow side yard If your Honeysuckle is to be grown
on a trellis or an arbor, put this support structure in place before planting, to avoid damaging the vine.
Plant Honeysuckle 6-12 in. away from the support to allow enough growing room for developing stems.
Tie vines to their support using strong, stretchy materials that won't cut into growing branches.
Strips of old nylon hosiery work very well.
Loop each tie into a figure 8, with the crossed portion between the stem and the support to keep stems from rubbing or being choked.
http://kinsellandscape.com/Project_Samples/Gardens/GardenArbor1p.jpg
© Project SOUND
Climbing Penstemon - Keckiella cordifolia
http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/courses/img/bot/401/Magnoliophyta/Magnoliopsida/Asteridae/Scrophulariaceae/Keckiella_cordifolia_FL_.jpg
© Project SOUND
Climbing (heart-leafed) Penstemon - Keckiella cordifolia
South and central coasts of CA to N. Baja
In chaparral, woodlands and even forest
Keckiella: after David Daniels Keck (1903-1995), an American botanist known for his work on experimental taxonomy who collaborated with Philip Munz on A California Flora,
cordifolia: in Latin means with "heart-shaped leaves"
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?7177,7347,7354
© Project SOUND
Characteristics of Climbing Penstemon
A woody vine/ open climbing shrub
Size: usually 3-6 ft long (to 15 ft); fast-growing
Sprawling – often found growing through other plants
evergreen in mild climates with a little watering, deciduous in winter cold or under drought stress.
http://biology.csusb.edu/PlantGuideFolder/KeckiellaCord/KeckiellaCordPage.htm
© Project SOUND
Who could resist such a pretty flower?
Blooms: May-Jul
Flowers: bright orange-red to deep red in clusters – very showy
Excellent summer nectar source:
Hummingbirds Butterflies Bees, etc.
Birds also eat the seed
http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/keck2.htm
© Project SOUND
Tricks for gardening with Climbing
Penstemon
Does best in light shade
Likes any well-drained soil
Probably lives longer with little/no summer water, but it can be kept green with modest waterings
prefers cool roots, so consider mulching with organic mulch
Prune only to remove dead branches or to shape
© Project SOUND
Climbing Penstemon in the garden
Great summer color in dry shady areas –really showy
Good under oaks
Excellent habitat
On slopes
As backdrop for other plants – attractive leaves with some summer water
http://www.marrsandersen.com/Stuff/California-plants/Page1.html
Can be trained to “climb” if given support
© Project SOUND
Outdoor activities – important in Edwardian
(and our) gardens
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43688219@N00/3934056099
Many appropriate chairs and
benches are readily available
© Project SOUND
When styles clash, the
results aren’t pretty
Edwardian Rustic; substantial
looking Natural colors for wood,
metal hardscape Natural-looking/
informal plantings
Victorian Refined; more delicate-
looking – often embellished
Hardscape often painted (white or pastels)
Geometric/formal plantings
http://www.heartlandhomeandgarden.com/
http://s7.kmart.com/is/image/Sears/07114609000?hei=500&wid=500&op_sharpen=1
© Project SOUND
Accessories, hardscape all should carry
out the theme
This was true in 1910 and is still
a good rule today!
http://www.kellscraft.com/AmericanGardens/americangarden16.html
http://inandoutdoors.com/gardenbenches/
If your garden has a rustic/Edwardian
look, then arbors, trellises, furniture
should reflect this
© Project SOUND
* Roving Sailor/Climbing Snapdragon – Maurandella antirrhiniflora
Patrick J. Alexander @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
© Project SOUND
* Roving Sailor – Maurandella antirrhiniflora
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?7177,7383,0,7384
Grows in desert mountains/ foothills of the Southwest – Texas to N. Mexico
In S. Ca – grows in Providence Mtns., San Bernardino Co.
Bluffs, dry stony slopes, desert flats, washes
http://www.desertmuseumdigitallibrary.org/public/img.php?t=detail&id=ASDM01072
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Roving Sailor is a nice, refined little vine
Size:
4-10 ft long & wide
Growth form: Semi-woody vine/sprawling shrub in
our area – grown as an annual in cold-winter areas – fast growth
Sprawls and twines through/over other plants (or trellises, etc.)
Foliage: Fresh, medium to dark green
(woodsy looking with water) – to gray-green (in hot, dry conditions)
Dainty – leaves somewhat ivy-like but more attractive shape
Dies back almost to ground in winter (or cut back if needed)
G.A. Cooper @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=maan9
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Flowers are a
designer’s dream
Blooms: From spring to fall; often
from April-Oct. with a little summer water.
Blooms open over long bloom season – excellent season-stretcher
Flowers: ~ 1 inch – but lots of them
Snapdragon-like appearance
Usually lilac color; natural red-maroon variants
Really showy – but up close
Seeds: tiny, but good germination; will reseed
Patrick J. Alexander @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database © 2008 Aaron Schusteff © 2007 Zoya Akulova
© Project SOUND
Roving Sailor is surprising well suited to
garden conditions…
Soils: Texture: likes a well-drained soil;
sandy soils are great, as are well-drained clays
pH: good for alkali soils
Light: full sun to part-shade; probably does best in dappled shade (under trees or climbing up a trellis)
Water: Winter: rainwater often sufficient
Summer: some supplemental water (Zone 2 or even 2-3) will extend bloom season; drought tolerant
Fertilizer: not needed, but won’t harm
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/htop_1211484777_460.jpg
Roving Sailor can hide a multitude
of ‘sins’
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English gardeners have
known for years…
Nice petite vines to climb up poles, fences, trellises
Use it to hide those ugly chain-link fences
Excellent (period-appropriate) climber for an Edwardian/ Craftsman Garden – even in a pot!
Use to attract Buckeye butterflies
Looks delicate – but is a real trooper!
http://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-
california/plants/maurandya-antirrhiniflora
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Available through traditional seed companies as
Climbing Snapdragon - Asarina antirrhiniflora
‘Mixed’ - available through Thompson-Morgan Seeds
‘Red’ – available through Summerhill seeds and several others
http://www.thompson-morgan.com/seeds1/product/7506/1.html
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Hillside/Pacific Pea - Lathyrus vestitus
http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/socal/peasd.htm
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Canyon Pea flowers are a joy to behold
Flowers:
Spring: usually April-June
Color: usually light pink to white; may be lavender; San Diego variant (var. alefeldii ) is
magenta
Flowers look like wild sweetpeas (or even slightly small horticultural varieties)
Sweetly scented
Good for native pollinators: bees, hummingbirds & butterflies
Seed pod:
pink-green & fuzzy, drying to brown
Seeds of Pea family may be toxic if eaten
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/canyonsweetpea.html
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/canyonsweetpea.html
© Project SOUND
Use Canyon Pea like any
Sweetpea
In a fragrance garden
Climbing up fences, trellises or other supports
On ‘natural’ hillsides
Great under oaks, Toyon, other chaparral tree & shrubs
Probably even in large containers
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/canyonsweetpea.html
http://www.redshift.com/~bigcreek/fire/fire5/index.html
Locate Canyon Pea where you can enjoy
its flowers & fragrance
© Project SOUND
http://tucsonlandscaping.info/trellis
Not enough space in your tiny garden?
Think creatively!
http://www.container-gardening-made-easy.com/perennial-flowering-vines.html
http://edenmakersblog.com/?tag=low-water-plants
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http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg070356056294.html
Obelisks are four-sided structures that are large at the base and taper as they reach skyward. They may have a finial at the top, where the obelisk comes to a point.
The garden obelisk is made with open weave to allow vines to twine in, out and around. Obelisks allow you to grow certain vines in small places.
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* Pride of California – Lathyrus splendens
© 2009 Andrew Borcher
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* Pride of California – Lathyrus splendens
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?3691,3922,3948
Native to Peninsular Ranges of Sand Diego Co. and Baja
An uncommon chaparral plant
Generally, the chaparral is low growing with a moderately open canopy; however, it can occur in dense vegetation on north-facing slopes.
Also known as ‘Campo Pea’
© Project SOUND
Pride of California – a perennial Sweetpea
Size: 6-12 ft long
Growth form: Semi-woody perennial
vine/shrub
Long, weak stems – delicate-looking plant
Can climb up or through – has tendrils like many species in the Pea family
Foliage: Leaves typical for peas –
compound leaf with rounded leaflets
Foliage color – usually blue-green
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LASP3
© Project SOUND
A riot of scarlet blooms
Blooms: In spring; usually May-June
in our area
Flowers: One of our most splendid
native plants – like the best Sweetpea
Flower shape – Pea-type
Brilliant carmine color – darken with age
Tropical-looking; attract hummingbirds & butterflies
Seeds: Typical peas in a pod
J. E.(Jed) and Bonnie McClellan © California Academy of Sciences
© Project SOUND
Pride of California – a bit difficult to grow…
Soils: Texture: well-drained soils a
must; sandy/rocky soils best
pH: any local
Light: Part-shade – dapple shade is
perfect
Water: Winter: supplement if
necessary
Summer: Dry – Zone 1-2 best; water perhaps 1-2 times in summer
Fertilizer: none
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LASP3
© Project SOUND
Pride of CA would make
a nice vine for sandy
soil gardens
Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find a source for seeds or plants
Your mission (if you choose to accept it): find us a source
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LASP3
© 2008 Dr. James D. Adams
© Project SOUND
Don’t be fooled…
It is important to distinguish this species from Lathyrus latifolius 'Splendens' which is sometimes sold under the same name.
The latter is merely a selected form of the common European 'Everlasting Pea'.
The true species is uncommon in cultivation and difficult to obtain.
http://chestofbooks.com/flora-plants/flowers/Western-Wild-Flowers/Pride-Of-California-
Lathyrus-Splendens-Crimson-Spring-California.html
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What is it about a grandmother’s garden?
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Lessons from Edwardian Gardens
1. Follow Mother Nature; informal, ‘natural’ style for restful urban gardens
2. Create pleasing places for outdoor living
• Shady and sunny places • Places to sit/dine/etc.
3. Use native plants creatively – they are pretty, ‘old fashioned’ and don’t require as much water, care
4. Use valuable space to the max: use fore-, mid- and background-space
http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/gertrude_jekyll_garden_glebe_house_museum
http://goldenagegardens.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html
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What is it about your garden that makes it a
good ‘grandmother’s/grandfarther’s garden’?
http://www.junedudley.com/images/grandmother%27s-garden432v.jpg
http://www.wickedlocal.com/mansfield/archive/x639771749/This-is-not-your-grandmother-s-garden-club