A PROJECT ON CUT & DEFECTS

OF DYEING & FINISHING DEPT.

RAYMOND LIMITED

CHHINDWARA DIVISION

SUBMITTED BY:

ABHIJIT BISWAS

B.TECH IN JUTE & FIBRE TECH.

(7TH SEMESTER)

DEPARTMENT OF JUTE & FIBRE TECH.

UNIVERSITY OF CALCUTTA

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

“HARD WORK IS THE FIRST STEPPING STONE TO

SUCCESS”

NO WORK CAN BE A SUCCESS WITHOUT DEDICATION AND TOIL.

OUR PROJECT REPORT COULD NOT HAVE BEEN A SUCCESS WITHOUT THE

HELP GUIDANCE AND VALUEABLE DIRECTION OF SOME VERY IMPORTANT

PEOPLE. WE WOULD LIKE TO START OUR DOCUMENT BY THANKING THESE

PEOPLE. FIRST ON THE LIST IS THE H.O.D. OF OUR INSTITUTION, PROF.SUNIL

KUMAR SETT WHO HELPED IN COORDINATING THE PROGRAM. HE ALONG

WITH HIS STAFF REALLY LEFT NO STONE UNTURNED IN MAKING US GET A

WAY THROUGH RAYMOND LIMITED (TEXTILE DIVISION), CHHINDWARA.

AFTER THIS WE CANNOT FORGET TO MENTION Mr. ASHIS DUBEY (HR-

MANAGER), TO GIVE US THE OPPORTUANITY FOR DOING A PROJECT WORK

ON CUT & DEFECTS OF DYEING AND FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Mr. ANJAN BHAUMIK (DY. MANAGER OF RECOMBING DEPARTMENT) WERE A

GREAT SOURCE OF SUPPORT FOR US WHO KEPT INFORMING AND GUIDING US

FROM TIME TO TIME AND HELPED US IN EVERY POSSIBLE WAY,

ENCOURAGING EVERY TIME.

APART FROM THEM, WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE OTHER STAFF

MEMBERS OF THE DYEING AND FINISHING DEPT., THE DATA OPERATORS AND

THE MACHINE OPERATORS OF THE RESPECTIVE DEPARTMENTS, WHO HELPED

AND SUPPORTED US FULL AND FINALLY TO CARRY OUT OUR PROJECT WORK

SO WELL.

A WORD OF THANKS TO ALL THE ABOVE MENTIONED PEOPLE.

THANKING YOU ALL

ABHIJIT BISWAS

INTRODUCTION:

Cut & defects is a major problem in textile industry from

the beginning time to today. From raw materials to finished product we pass through

various type of process like grey combing, dyeing, recombing, spinning,weaving &

finishing and each process we face different type of character & behaviour of

material, machinery & human performance. In every department we saw different

different defects which is generate due to some error operation in machinery &

careless human performance. For the cause cause of those defects the valuable

finished products are marked as low quality products and it goes to cut & defects

section.When the defects production in increase the profit of the company will be

decrease. For proper costing of a garment, and cost reduction, it is necessary to

have good understanding of the fabric quality and various fabric losses that occur

during garment production. It is possible to find a lot of papers and research works

based on improving the marker efficiency to minimize the fabric losses but very few

work or research has been done to reduce the impact caused by fabric defects.

Moreover, we could not eliminate the defects from the textile

industry but we may reduce this defects with proper work & studies in theoretically

and practically.

DIFFERENT TYPE OF DEFECTS:

We have done this project on two departments:

Dyeing and Finishing.

In this two department we found various type of defects which are given below:

DYEING DEPARTMENT:

There are four type of materials has been dyed in this department, such as-

1) TOP DYEING

2) FIBRE DYEING

3) PIECE DYEING &

4) CHEESE DYEING

DYEING DEFECTS:

Rub mark

Colour stains

Dyeing patches

Dyeing end mark

Dyeing crease

Centre to selvedge

Cheese dyed bars

Colour fastness

Colour stains

Damage

Drain mark

Dyeing abraision

Dyeing bands

Dyeing joint

Dyeing soilmark

Entanglement

Fibre damaged

Listing mark

Moire effect

Oxidation mark

Patchy dyeing

Streakyness

Uneven dyeing

White creases

Poor fastness

MONTH WISE CUT & DEFECTS OF DYEING DEPARTMENT:

MONTH CUT & PERCENTAGE TOTAL

DEFECTS PERCENTAGE

AUGUST’2013

Rub mark 0.74

1.82

Colour stains 0.50

Dyeing patches 0.39

Dyeing end mark 0.07

Dyeing creases 0.04

Others 0.08

JULY’2013

Rub mark 0.17

1.10

Colour stains 0.41

Dyeing patches 0.37

Dyeing end mark 0.04

Dyeing creases 0.01

Others 0.10

FINISHING DEFECTS:

Bowing

Stains

Rub mark

End mark

Chemical/Resin spot

Holes

Steam band /Suction mark

Colour contact

Colour sublimation

Damaged selvedge

Doubly mark

Drain mark / Draining

Dust mark

Exposure mark

Fibrous / Beads

Finishing abrasion

Finishing crease

Gum mark

Insect spot

KD yellow

Moon mark

Nikki damage

Oil stains

Press mark

Processing damage

Pull end

Resin stain

Rust stains

Shearing bar

Shearing damage

Short width

Shrinkage

Singeing band

Soiling mark / mud stains

Steam patches

Stenter damage / stenter pin holes

Thread mark

Uneven stentering

Water mark

Wrapper mark

Wrong pinning

Yellow stain

Center to selvedge shade variation

Collapse mark

DAY WISE CUT & DEFECTS OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT:

DAY CUT & DEFECTS

NO. OF PIECES

TOTAL C&D IN MTRS.

TOTAL PRODUCTION IN MTRS.

C&D PERCENTAGE

End mark 04

Steam band 09

08.09.13 1322 36737

1322 * 100 36737

=3.6%

Steam patch

01

Press mark 01

Doubly mark

04

Crease 03

Stain 05

Collapse mark

02

Short width /Moon mark

06

Water mark 01

Soil mark 01

others 12

09.09.13

End mark 07

1325 45703

1325*100 45703

= 2.9%

Steam band 16

Crease 17

Stain 09

Wrapper mark

08

Singeing band

03

Soil mark 03

Mending defects

01

Others 14

End mark 07

1942 * 100

Steam band 08

Press mark 02

Doubly mark 07

Crease 07

10.09.13 1942 51123

51123

=3.8%

Fibrous 01

Stain 06

Collapse mark 01

Wrapper mark 01

Water mark 01

Dust mark 02

Short width /Moon mark

01

MONTH WISE CUT & DEFECTS OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT:

MONTH CUT & DEFECTS

PERCENTAGE TOTAL PERCENTAGE

Stains 0.32

Rub mark 0.25

End mark 0.22

AUGUST’2013 2.25Chemical / Resin

spot0.17

Holes 0.15

Others 1.14

JULY’2013

Stains 0.20

2.15

Rub mark 0.32

End mark 0.15

Chemical / Resin spot

0.12

Holes 0.17

Others 1.19

CAUSES OF THOSE DEFECTS & remedies:

DYEING DEPT.:

Rub mark : An unwanted mark on fabric surface which is a major defects in textile woven fabric.

Causes :

Improper handling of fabric by worker.

Unclean machine mangle.

Improper cleaning of machine after a dyeing.

Mending :

Non-mendable.

Colour stains : An unwanted colour mark on a fabric qualifies as a dye Stain.

Causes : Improper scouring.

Improper mixing of dye stuffs.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Dyeing patches : The fabric is characterized by an area of light or heavy dyeing along and across the width of fabric. Also, light or heavy dyed patches or light and dark streaks appear on the fabric. It also includes shade variation and light or heavy dyeing on selvedge.

Causes :

Improper scouring.

Cloth fed to the dyeing machine not crease free.

Proper time & temperature not given in dyeing.

Defective padding rollers.

Fluff or thread on the fabric or in the colour in the dye stuffs.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Shade Bar : Shade change in fabric which appears as a horizontal selvedge-to selvedge change. Caused by a filling change (new filling bobbin) or loom stop and subsequent start up.

Causes :

Improper scouring.

Defective padding roller.

Proper time & temperature not given in dyeing.

Different in count / fibre composition of weft yarn.

Mending :

Non - mendable.

Uneven dyeing : Differences in the shade of a fabric from edge to edge or one end of a fabric to the other called selvedge- to selvedge(or selvedge to center) shading or end- to-end shading respectively.

Causes :

Often caused in jig dyeing through difference of temperatures between

the selvedge & centre of the batched up fabric on the jig roller.

By uneven batching of the cloth on the roller.

Uneven dye solutions.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Water mark : An unwanted ripple effect / light mark produced on the fabric is known as water mark.

Causes :

Improper scouring.

Surface pressure of one layer on another.

Contamination with water prior to tinting or dyeing on the padding

mangle resulting in a reduction of intake of dye liquor.

Mending : Non- mendable.

Dirt spots : An unwanted mark on fabric surface.

Causes :

Contamination of the material by rust, oil, graphite etc.

Mending :

Pay attention to clean machines and clean working method.

FINISHING DEPT:

Bowing :

Condition wherein the weft and warp yarns do not keep at Bowing right angles.

Causes :

Improper stretch during scouring, dyeing or finishing

Uneven tension during weaving/ processing.

Mending :

Non-mendable.

Stains : A discolour area on the cloth.

Causes :

Foreign mater such as dirt, grease, oil or residues of sizing on the fabric being dyed.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Rub mark : An unwanted mark on fabric surface which is a major defects in textile woven fabric.

Causes :

Improper handling of fabric by worker.

Unclean machine mangle.

Improper cleaning of machine after a dyeing.

Use of uncleaned trolley.

Mending :

Non-mendable.

End mark : End mark is a major defects in textile fabric.

Causes :

When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when

loom starts again' the slackness is woven into the fabric.

Improper stitches on the fabric.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Holes : Holes is a major defects on fabric specially found on the selvedge .

Causes :

Holes along selvedge caused by pin holding fabric while it processes

through stenter machine.

Major >if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible

in finishing product.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Water spots :

An unwanted ripple effect / light mark produced on the fabric

Causes :

Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Short width : A major problem in the way of textile finishing process.

Causes :

Improper heatset of fabric.

Improper instruction given to the stenter machine by operator.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Crease mark : A major defects in textile finishing products.

Causes :

Differs from crease streak in that streak will probably apper for entire roll.

Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process.

On napped fabric,final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition.

Often discolouration is a problem.

Mending :

Non- mendable.

Some Way to reduce cut & DEFECTS:

The machine which are used in dyeing & Finishing should be neat & clean.

Hardness of water should be less.

PH of water should be 6 to 6.5 for dyeing & Finishing process.

Use the best quality dyestuffs.

Use the best quality chemicals.

Weight and measure all dyes and chemicals accurately.

Aim for consistent batch to batch weights when loading machines.

Aim for consistent liquor ratios from batch to batch.

Set and record key process data on batch cards and recipe sheets.

Analyse process performance to improve quality and reduce unnecessary

steps and excessive chemical use.

Regularly seek advice and demand process reviews from your dye and

chemical suppliers.

Temperature control and other process parameter such as pH etc.

Proper liquor filling and draining rates.

Accurate chemical dosing rate.

Heat setting should be done with proper temperature & condition.

Moisture adding process of damping machine should be maintain to follow the

weather & humidity.

Pressing should be proper to avoid creases & fold of the fabric.

In folding section has to avoid wrong tagging, defective hemming, wrong

sizing, wrong packing to better quality & services.

CONCLUSIONS:

It was shown that dyeing & Finishing as a process

contains a considerable number of variables, and errors in any or all of them can

produce dyeing & finishing which are not acceptable, with the result that expensive

shading & chemical has to be used. Many faults that can arise in earlier stages of

processing become clearly visible for the first time after dyeing & finishing and it is

necessary for the dyer & finisher to learn to recognize their symptoms. Some of the

common dyeing & finishing problems include dye spots, end mark, rub mark, water

spot, migration, uneven dyeing, staining, and shading, off shade colours, poor hand

and poor fastness.

. Dyeing and Finishing physical properties can be improved with a decrease in

overall costs together with ecological advantages. The textile industry, especially the

dyeing and finishing sector, needs to adopt a more critical attitude by solving dyeing

& finishing problems in order to establish the most logical methods of improving

human performance.

THANK YOU