Foundation Wine Course: IIIFoundation Wine Course: III

13 April 2011

Wines of the Rest of the Old World

Copyright © Brian Jamieson

Oldest ever Winery discovered!Oldest ever Winery discovered!

Radiocarbon dating of artefacts in cave in Armenia

• A rudimentary wine press

• clay vat surrounded by grape seeds

• withered grape vines,

• remains of pressed grapes

• cup and drinking bowl.

4000-4100 BC

European production levelsEuropean production levels

1 Italy 4,609,554

2 France 4,198,632

3 Spain 3,591,300

9 Germany 1,000,100

11 Portugal 562,000

12 Romania 554,182

13 Russia 503,483

14 Greece 400,409

16 Hungary 325,000

17 Austria 299,372

Tonnes

18 Bulgaria 230,046

19 Ukraine 210,500

21 Serbia 154,224

22 Moldova 138,522

24 Macedonia 108,100

25 Switzerland 107,447

.

Lebanon 15,000

.

UK 1,350

(2008 figures from FAO)

Spain, Portugal & ItalySpain, Portugal & Italy

In places wine-making predates the French Localised consumption patterns Use of indigenous grapes (unknown to us!) Less choice for British consumers - UK suppliers

often have small stocks But, recent trend is to meet global market

demands in terms of grapes and styles

Quality controlQuality control

Spain, Portugal & Italy follow the French Appellation Controllé system based on guaranteeing geographical origin and quality.

Each defined area [DO, DOC, DOCG] having specified grapes and regulations, and broadly similar vinification methods.

Classification of Spanish Classification of Spanish wineswinesVino de MesaVino Comarcal – regionally specific

Vino de la Tierra – Spain's answer to French vin de pays

Denominacion de Origen (DO) – equivalent to French AC

Denominacion de Origen e Calificada (DOCa) – only awarded to Rioja

PortugalPortugal

Vinho de MesaVinho Regional (VR) – the vin de pays equivalent, but

covers entire country

Indicaçāo de Proveniencia Regulamentada (IPR)

Denominaçao de Origem Controlada (DOC)

Italian wine classificationItalian wine classification

Wine 3

Wine 2

Wine 7 Wine 1

Important DO areasImportant DO areasLa Rioja

– Tempranillo grapes: oaky Rioja wines; DOCa

Ribera del Duero– Tempranillo grapes; outstanding and expensive red

wines

Catalunya – several DOs– Penedes, the home of cava (Condoriu & Freixenet)

– Torres family owned business (Vina Sol)

– Priorat

Wine 3

Wine 2

Wine 7 Wine 1

Important DO areasImportant DO areas Rueda

– White wines: Viura, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc Navarra

– Like neighbouring Rioja, largely robust Tempranillo–based reds; some introduction of Cabernet Sauvignon

Valdepeñas, Jumilla & La Mancha Rias Baixas

– Albariño

Wine 3

Wine 2

Wine 7 Wine 1

Tasting:1. Appearance2. Aroma3. Palate

Wine 1Wine 1

Tres Olmos, Verdejo, Rueda DO 2009 – Verdejo: A common Spanish white grape variety– Colour– Aromas

• Floral/fruity

– Palate• Mineral/floral/fruity• Acidity

– ‘Spanish Sauvignon blanc’

Haro

La Rioja

Marqués de Riscal:Designed by Frank Gehry

The ages of RiojaThe ages of Rioja

Joven: – Young, purple, little or now barrel ageing

Crianza– Aged a year in oak

Reserva– Two years in oak and one in bottle

Gran Reserva– Two in oak and two in bottle (minimum)

Wine 2Wine 2

Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2005– 70%Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and

Graciano) – A creation of old vines and new vinification technology– Specially selected grapes– 30 months in oak; 12 months in bottle– Colour?– Aromas?– Palate?

• Fruits? Spices? Leather? Chocolate?

Muga videoMuga video

Across the borderAcross the border to Portugal to Portugal Minho: Vinho Verde

DOC Douro: Port DOC

&robust red still wines Beira : Dao DOC Setúbal DOC: Moscatel Alentejo DOC: some modern

vinification and ‘global’

grapes like Syrah

Wine 7

Wine 3

Wine 3Wine 3

Altano, Douro DOC 2007 – Symington family estates in Upper Douro– Organic status

– Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz

– Colour?– Aromas?– Palate?

ItalyItaly

Somewhat anarchic producers and regulations. Lots of localised production. No 1 producer in the World, some exceptionally

fine and diverse wines, huge potential, but – a lack of focus.

Consequently a muddled image, excepting – Chianti, Soave, Frascati, Prosecco and a few others.

ItalyItaly

From the

foothills of

the Alps to

Mt Etna

Wine 4

Italian wine classificationItalian wine classification

The PremiershipThe Premiership

Not specific enough

geographically

No ranking within each

DOCG, cf Bordeaux or

Burgundy

Pyramid of qualityPyramid of quality

• DOCGs 30• DOCs 309• IGTs 118 (since 1996)

Wine 4Wine 4

Gianni Brunelli, Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG 2003

– An iconic traditional producer; died in 2008– Sangiovese grapes– Montalcino clings to a rocky hilltop in S Tuscany– Warmer than Chianti Classico– Only 1,500 cases a year– Colour?– Nose?– Palate

• Fruit/ spice, leather/chocolate?

Gianni Brunnelli – a larger than life figureGianni Brunnelli – a larger than life figure

Contrasted reviewsContrasted reviews

Critic 1– Leather, farm and no fruit on the mouth– Brick red at the rim, even brown– It's old already, perhaps a reflection of the year

Critic 2– Layers of red fruits with good clean finish– Tasted a lot better the next day!

Super TuscansSuper Tuscans

Chianti & Chianti Classico– Geographical definition– Only Sangiovese grapes for Red wine

Innovation with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz etc blends produce some great wines– Only IGT classification, but can be expensive– Known as Super-Tuscans

Video interludeVideo interlude

Jancis Robinson in Piedmont (Italy), Ribera del Duero (Spain) & Languedoc (France)

‘Indigenous grapes v. Invaders’

Germany & AustriaGermany & Austria Completely different classification based on amount of residual sugar in

grapes at harvest– Tafelwein: Lowest sugar/alcohol; from any region– Landwein– Qualitätswein: >9% alc; from a single region.

• Kabinett

– Prädikatswein: nothing to be added; increasing sugar levels• Spätlese • Auslese• Beerenauslese• Ausbruch• Trockenbeerenauslese: Botrytised grapes• Eiswein & Strohwein; picked frozen or dried on straw

Wine 5Wine 5Charming Gruner Veltliner, Laurenz V., Qualitätswein 2007

– Kamptal region of Austria: cool climate– Grüner Veltliner; a third of Austria's entire wine production – Aroma

• honey, melon and some herbal/floral characteristics

– Palate • ripe apple flavours, then crisp acidity with herbal and spicy notes on the

mid-palate; finishes with a salted apple flavour

Austrian Austrian QualitätsweinQualitätswein

Wine 5 5ine

Wine 6Wine 6

Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Wine of Lebanon, 2003– 15 miles N of Beirut; 3000 ft up in mountains;

founded 1930; discovered Bristol Wine Fair 1979– Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsuaut, Carignan , Grenache

& Mourvèdre; French style– Colour?– Aromas?– Palate?

Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley

Fortified winesFortified wines

1. Base still wines of any colour/sweetness

2. Alcohol, grape spirit, local ‘brandy’, eau de vie added before, during or after fermentation – the process of Mutage

FortificationFortification

Addition of alcohol to unfermented grape juice:– French Vins de liqueurs – Pineau des Charantes

Early fortification– Inhibits/stops fermentation of grape juice and ensures residual sugar– Strengthens alcohol levels to between 16% and 24%– Port– French Vin doux naturel

Late fortification

– Addition of alcohol after fermentation has ceased

– Grape spirit and juice added to dry wine

– Fino Sherry

SherrySherry

Essential features– Three grapes: Moscatel, Palomino & Pedro Ximenez

(PX)

– Oxidised fermentation

– Natural yeast creates Flor during fermentation to produce Fino or Oloroso styles

– Fortification (alcohol and grape spirit) and maturation

– Fractional blending, sweetening, in soleras

Produces a huge range of styles

Sherry typesSherry types

Fino stock– Fino– Manzanilla– Amontillado

Olorsoso stock– Oloroso– Cream (Pale & Dark)– Pedro Ximenez (PX)

PortPort

17C British addition of alcohol inspired fortification of still wines in Alto Douro

Poor schistose soil, hot summers and freezing winters

Touriga Nacional and up to 80 other permitted cultivars

Originally matured in lodges in town of Vila Nova da Gaia

Types of PortTypes of Port

Barrel-aged– Tawny

• Sweet-medium dry; dessert wines

• Solera system of blending: 10, 20, 30 & 40 years old

Bottle-aged– Ruby, White, LBV, Vintage & Crusted

• Filtered or unfiltered

• LBV 4 years in wood, then bottle and drink

• Vintage up to 2 years in wood, many more in bottle

Port productionPort production

Wine 7Wine 7

Taylor’s Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port 2003– Aged to maturity on oak vats (4-6 years)– Bottled 2009– Helps preserve body and flavour– But can causes cloudiness– 20% alcohol

Taylor’s Estates (Quintas)Taylor’s Estates (Quintas)

Today’s winesToday’s wines

1. Tres Olmos, Verdejo, Rueda DO 2009 £7.95 WS

2. Altano, Duoro DOC 2007 £5.95 WS

3. Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2005 £22.00 *4. Gianni Brunelli, Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG 2003 £30.00 *5. Charming Gruner Veltliner, Laurenz V., Qualitätswein 2007 £14.95 WS

6. Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Wine of Lebanon, 2003 £17.99 *7. Taylors Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port, 2003 £12.99 *

* Majestic WS Wine Society

IdentificationIdentification

By aroma only, which of today’s wines is this?

Value for money?Value for money?

Which of today's wines offers best value for money?

Next session: IVNext session: IV

Wines of the New World

Wednesday 18 May 2011 at 2.30pm