WEAVES ,THEIR VARIATIONS, PROPERTIES & THEIR APPLICATIONSBy: Madhu Kumari
Tanvi Mishra
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to express our thanks to Ms. Yashoda Kumari for her guidance and help. Furthermore we are grateful to the college Resource Centre which provided us with the necessary material for the presentation. Finally we would like to thank our classmates for their patience and support.
DEFINITION
Weaving : The interlacing of two sets of yarns, warp and weft, at right angles.
Warp yarns are those which lie lengthwise & Weft yarns lie widthwise of the selvage
REPRESENTATION OF WEAVES
Draft: Represents the number of harnesses used in the making ofthe weave.
Peg Plan: Indicates the repetitive pattern that occurs at intervals in the weave.
WEAVES CLASSIFICATION
Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave
Basic Weaves
Basket Weave
Rib Weave
2×24×4
CrosswiseVertical
Right HandLeft Hand
Warp FacedFilling Faced
BrokenReverse
Warp Faced
Filling Faced
PLAIN WEAVE
Simplest and Tightest method of interlacing. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and
under each weft. Interlacing is opposite in each neighboring
cells. The repeat is over two ends and two picks. Opposite sides of the fabric are the same. Yields the strongest fabric. Requires only two harnesses. Examples : Batiste, Cambric, Donegal, Fresco, Honan,
Muslin, Taffeta, Voile.
Batiste Muslin
Plain Weave
Examples of Plain Weave
Cambric
VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE Rib Weave: surface shows raised lines or ridges. Filling yarns are thicker than warp yarns. Abrades quickly, unbalanced fabric
-Warp Rib: runs across the fabric width, high density of warp ends, finer warp yarn covers fabric surface. Commercial Styles: ottoman, rib,
bengaline ,broad cloth, taffeta, faille and poplin
-Weft Rib: runs through the length of the cloth, high weft density, not a very common fabric.
Rib Weave
Ottoman
Example of Rib Weave
VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE (CONTD..)
Basket Weave: groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn.
Examples:- Monk’s cloth, Hopsacking, Oxford cloth.
2×2 basket weave is the most common Decorative, coarse, porous, snags easily,
poor shape retention, flat weave effect Not durable and easily shrink Difficult to sew
Basket Weave
Hopsack
Example of Basket Weave
2×2
4×4
1×2
TWILL WEAVE
Created by floats between interlacing points which move one cell upwards/downwards on adjacent threads.
Produces diagonal lines( Z or S) on the fabric. On the back twill direction is the opposite. Smallest repeat size: 3 warp & 3 weft Two Types : Warp Faced & Weft Faced. Can be made soft or loose and twill lines can
be made more prominent . Examples : cavalry, denim, diagonal, drill,
gaberdine, serge, tweed, tricotine, whipcord.
Twill Weave
Examples of Twill Weave
TweedCavalry
VARIATIONS OF TWILL WEAVE
Diagonals: larger twills with two or more twill lines of different width. Can be warp faced, weft faced or balanced.
Commercial Names: Diagonals and Cavalry. Broad Twills: show a very broad twill line,
warp floats usually cover more than two cells and weft floats at least two. Can be balanced/unbalanced.
Balanced Twills: warp and weft floats are of equal sizes, face and back are similar with opposite twill directions.
Commercial Names: Twill , sheeting
DEVELOPMENT OF TWILL WEAVES
Steep Twill: equal density of warp and weft, twills display a twill line of about 45°.
Flattened Twill: usually weft faced which means that twill line is formed by the weft yarn.
Herringbone: made by reversing the direction of the twill at regular intervals.
Waved Twill: by changing the direction of the twill line at regular interval a wave or zigzag effect can be created.
Broken Twill: are formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat.
Herringbone
Broken Twill
Waved Twill
Steep Twill
Double/Cavalry Twill
Corkscrew Twill
Right-hand Twill (Mock Up)
Left Hand Twill Mock Up
75° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher76° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher63° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher45° : 1 Filling Yarns Higher27° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher26° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher15° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher
SATIN/SATEEN WEAVE
Uniform distribution of the interlacing which are never adjacent to one another.
Repeats over at least 5 ends and 5 picks. But the warp end interlace only once per
repeat which results in Long Floats. Face and the Back look different. Satins are Warp/Weft Faced, Sateen is Weft
faced. Smooth, Uniform and Lustrous. Commercial Names: Atlas, duchesse,
doeskin, sateen, satin, venetian.
Satin Weave
Sateen Weave
Examples of Satin/Sateen
Duchesse
Atlas
Satin
Venetian
DEVELOPMENTS OF SATIN WEAVE
Few variations because interlacing must not be allowed to come close together
Patterning is achieved by arranging for interchanging areas of sateen & satin on a Plain/Twill background.
Examples : Satin Stripe, Damask, Faconne, Figured Jacquard, Chiffon with Satin Stripes , Satin Faconne.
Developments of Satin Weave
Satin Stripes
Damask
Figured Jacquard
SPECIAL WEAVES CLASSIFICATION
Complex Or Novelty Weaves
Dobby Weave
Piqué/Cord Weave
Figure Weave
Jacquard Weave
Double Cloth Weave
Leno Weave
Thermo Weave
Gauze Weave
French Back
Double Back
Double Faced
Swivel Weave
Spot Weave
Lappet Weave
DOUBLE CLOTH
A single ply fabric made by two sets of filling and one set of warp yarn or two set of warp and one set of filling yarn.
DOBBY WEAVE
A flat or raised, small floral, dotted or geometricweave produced with a dobbyattachment .
Dull and shiny surface effects.
Patterns are referred to as birdseye, nailhead, dots, squares, diamonds, honeycomb
DOUBLE FACED CLOTH
A woven or knitted fabric constructed with more than one set of warp & filling yarns, producing two fabrics with two distinct faces.
FIGURE WEAVE
Ornamental embroidered effects are produced by adding additional warp/filling yarns at regular intervals during weaving.
LAPPET WEAVE
A figure/embroidery weave design produced by a needle on the loom, which produces an additional plain woven end into the plain woven background
SPOT/DOT/CLIPPED SPOT WEAVE
Method of producing decorative designs & patterns on the entire width/length of the fabric in predetermined areas.
SWIVEL WEAVE
A method of producing decorative dots, circles or squares on the surface of the fabric.
JACQUARD WEAVE
Comprises of complicated patterns. Patterns can incorporate any of the three weaves or their combinations.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Clothing Technology : Europa Lehr-Mittal Fabric Science: Puzzartto Understanding Fabrics
Pictures: Google, Understanding Fabrics
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