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Th ur sday , Oct. 02, 2008
By Cath erine May er
Introduction
There is no shortage of tourist staples: Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Marble Arch, Big Ben, the
iconic red double-decker bus. (London Mayor Boris Johnson, a shambling, shock-haired media celebrity
and tourist attraction in his own right, got rid of the city's articulated single-decker buses, which he
considered a menace to cyclists Johnson is often seen weaving toward City Hall on his bicycle.) But
London's appeal doesn't lie only in its architectural and cultural treasures. This is also the best people-
watching city in the world. Its 7.5 million residents some born within its boundaries, others irresistibly
drawn to it are deliriously motley, speaking more than 300 languages among them. If you've got just 24
hours, here are 10 unmissable places to observe Londoners in their natural habitat.
1. Tate Modern
Many Britons regard high culture with suspicion. Yet this gallerydevoted to modern art effortlessly pulls in
the punters and locals as well as the tourists, and ranks among London's most-visited attractions. Part of
its appeal is the building itself, fashioned by architects Herzog and De Meuron from a vast disused powerstation on the Thames's south bank. In addition to blockbuster exhibits and live events, the gallery invites a
prominent artist every year to transform its cavernous turbine hall: Chinese artist and dissident Ai Wei Wei
blanketed the space with 100 million hand-sculpted and painted porcelain sunflower seeds in 2010; British
artist Tacita Dean paid homage to 35mm filmmaking in 2011 with her 11-minute loop of grainy, flickering
images projected onto a towering screen at the rear of the hall.
It would be easy to spend the entire day in the gallery, but you might want to get out and walk around the
neighborhood: Enter foodie heaven in nearby Borough Market, where the delis and restaurants are open
all week and a farmer's market operates Friday and Saturday. Directly across the river from the Tate is St
Paul's Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren's most celebrated building. To get there you cross the 18.2 million
Millennium Bridge, a suspension footbridge completed in 2000, which quickly gained the sobriquet the
"Wobbly Bridge." (They've since fixed the wobble.)
2. Marylebone Stroll
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What's the nattiest neighborhood in London? Not leafy Notting Hill, which lost its claim to cool after Hugh
Grant and Julia Roberts frolicked through it in the eponymous 1999 rom-com. And not fashionable
Hoxton or Shoreditch, even with their spiky-haired, skinny-jeans-clad tribes of cool kids. They're all worth
a look, but the real cool resides in Marylebone, an area so confident of its charms that it doesn't need to
broadcast them.
Lying north of the glossy Selfridgesdepartment store and south of Regent's Park, Marylebone (pronounced
mar-le-bone) is an affluent, strollable residential district of white terraced Georgian and Edwardian
townhouses, the grandest of which are still single-family. It's also home to theWallace Collection, where
the girl with the billowing skirts in Jean-Honor Fragonard's The Swingremains as seductive as when
France's dirty old master painted her in 1767. The main shopping drag is Marylebone High Street, but the
whole area is packed with fabulous shops and restaurants: Come here for everything from haute couture
and baby clothes to organic butchery and extravagant cakes. There's also a specialist travel bookshop called
Daunt Booksthat's worth a detour just for its Edwardian fixtures and fittings.
3. The London Eye
Yes, it's a giant ferris wheel, and, yes, it's for tourists but it's a worth a spin. Once you've boarded your
glass-sided capsule each capsule holds 25 people it will be a half-hour before you get back down.
Creeping along at 0.6 miles (0.9 km) per hour, it's an excruciatingly slow flight, as a trip on the London
Eyeis called, but from the top of the 443-foot (135-m) wheel you'll be rewarded with gloriously unimpeded
views over London. At night, take one of the special "champagne flights," and you'll find yourself in one of
the capital's best bars. Continue a scenic theme with dinner and drinks at Skylon, a dimly lit lounge and
restaurant overlooking the Thames with floor-to-ceiling windows.
4. Inns of Court
You might easily overlook the small arched entrance to Middle Temple, one of the four remaining Inns of
Court, which are responsible for training all of Britain's barristers. The Inns were first established in the
14th century and housed in large, walled compounds; today, judges and barristers still work, study and
sometimes live in these enchanted precincts. Beyond the gates of Middle Temple (locked overnight and onweekends), on the south side of the Strand where it morphs into Fleet Street, lies a time capsule. Step into
the Elizabethan banqueting house, Middle Temple Hall. It's a real-life Hogwarts, but twice as magical.
5. J. Sheekey
If you like your dinner with a side order of celebrity, head to one of Caprice Holdings' restaurants: Le
Caprice, a sleek art deco brasserie just behind the Ritz hotel, the Ivyor J. Sheekey; the latter two are in
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London's theaterland. Their clientele rosters read like the guest list for a charity gala thrown by Bono and
Angelina Jolie. When famed London restaurateurs Jeremy King and Chris Corbin left Caprice Holdings in
2002, the celebritocracy had a minor heart attack wherever would they get their Spotted Dick (a
traditional steamed pudding with syrup) now? But to their great relief, this trio of eateries along their
new sibling, the refurbished Scott'srestaurant in Mayfair still have the edge over the competition,
serving simple seafood and game dishes, perfectly executed and perfectly served. The most intimate of the
bunch is J. Sheekey, a fish restaurant with leather banquettes, paneled walls and an impressive art
collection. (King and Corbin went on to open The Wolseleyand the now-shuttered St. Alban.)
6. Kensington Gardens
Londoners of a certain age will tell you that Germans shaped their city. They're right, but the Blitz wasn't
the only thing that left its mark on London. In 1728, Caroline of Brandenburg-Ansbach, the German-born
wife of King George II , commissioned works to the southern swath of Hyde Park later redesignated
Kensington Gardens creating the Serpentine, an artificial lake, and landscaping the surrounding lawnsand walkways. (A stately circuit of these ornamental waters will take you 40 minutes, and you can swim
at the Serpentine Lido from May to September.) Queen Caroline lived in Kensington Palace, on the western
edge of the park, which has been home to assorted members of the extended royal family and household,
but will, of course, forever be associated with its most iconic resident, Princess Diana. Kensington Gardens
is studded with shrines to the late Princess, including a fountain dedicated to her memory by the Queen in
2004.
7. Berry Bros. & Rudd
The poet Lord Byron was just one of many patrons of Berry Bros. & Ruddwho submitted to a public
weighing on one of the shop's giant coffee scales. "Let us have wine and women, mirth and
laughter/Sermons and soda water the day after," wrote Byron. Britain's oldest wine merchant and
sometime coffee seller set up shop here on St James's Street in 1698, and remains one of the world's leading
purveyors of fine wine. Despite its pedigree, it's not snobbish. Staff happily expound on the virtues of the
cheaper wines and spirits they sell, alongside the rarest vintages. If you can't get to the original shop, there
are branches in Dublin, Hong Kong and Shanghai, as well as a factory outlet in Basingstoke, south ofLondon.
8. The Royal Court Theatre
The roll call of playwrights championed by the Royal Courtis long and distinguished John Osborne,
Edward Bond, Joe Orton, Caryl Churchill, David Hare, Sam Shepard not least by their propensity for
tackling controversial themes and subjects. Dedicated to new and innovative work, audiences at this two-
http://www.royalcourttheatre.com/http://www.bbr.com/http://www.hrp.org.uk/kensingtonPalace/http://www.thewolseley.com/http://www.j-sheekey.co.uk/http://www.scotts-restaurant.com/8/13/2019 TIME _10 Things to Do in London
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theater venue in Sloane Square first saw transvestite Dr. Frank-N-Furter strut his stuff at the 1973 premier
of The Rocky Horror Show,and winced in 1995 at the late playwright Sarah Kane's scandalous debut,
Blasted,which was decried by critics for its graphic brutality only to be hailed at its 2001 revival by some
of those same critics as a profound and disturbing work. More recently, the theater has debuted Mike
Bartlett's satire,Love, Love Love, which follows the journey of the Baby Boomer generation from the
tumultuous 1960s to the harsh realities of the present, and Bola Agbajie's Belong, profiling a Nigerian
politician in London struggling to define his identity.
9. Smithfield Pub Crawl
London is far from being a 24-hour city. Alcohol licensing laws were relaxed in 2003, but finding a late-
night drink still requires ingenuity. There is one part of city, however, that doesn't sleep: Smithfield. The
neighborhood is home to a historic meat market, which operates in ornate Victorian halls weekdays from 4
a.m. to noon and many of the local pubs and cafes open early to serve pints and hefty fry-ups to the
market workers.
Start your evening at Ye Olde Mitre, an 18th-century pub in the jewelry district adjacent to Smithfield;
then, head east through Ely Place to the market, on the way passing St Etheldreda'sthe oldest Catholic
church in England. Taste the wines of southwestern France at the Cellar Gascon bar and Comptoir Gascon
restaurant; their posh sister, Club Gascon, has bagged a Michelin star for its exceptional cooking. The Fox
and Anchorboasts the tastiest scotch eggs in the country and keenly priced accommodations. Catch a
nap in one of the designer rooms above the bar or go straight back out to dance off the calories at the so-
hip-it-hurts nightclub Fabric. You may want to refuel at Kurz & Lang, a tiny joint selling German
bratwurst and beers; it's open until 11:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and never closes on Friday and
Saturday.
Before daybreak, try The Hope for your early morning pint, and Ferrari's Snack Bar for an artery-clogging
full English breakfast. Just what the doctor didn't order.
10. Barfly and Roundhouse
If you get claustrophobic at the Hollywood Bowl or Madison Square Garden, then neither of the live music
venues I'm about to recommend is for you. The Barfly, above a pub in Camden, is tiny, but that doesn't
stop punters from piling through the doors and turning the whole room into a mosh pit. It's a regular
staging post for new bands tipped for greatness: Oasis and Coldplay both performed here. But don't let that
deter you; other alumni include Blur and the Y oung Knives. Across the road, the Roundhouseshows it
knows the meaning of eclectic, with a program that includes big-name musicians, left-field comedians and
even circus acts, in a converted 19th-century steam-engine repair shed.
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