B CNG THNG
TRNG H CNG NGHIP THC PHM TPHCM
KHOA CNG NGH HA HC
MN: K THUT NHUM TI: QUY TRNH NHUM VI LEN
Nhm 10
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GVHD: Phan Th Thanh Diu
1) NGUYN HONG LINH
2) NGUYN TH M HNH
3) TRANG NGUYN DUY LINH
4) HUNH TH THY DUYN
5) TRN NGC LINH
6) HUNH VN TRC
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1. Khai nim
Len (bt ngun t t ting Php: laine) l mt
loi si dt thu c t lng cu v mt s
loi ng vt khc, nh d, lc ...
Cht lng ca len
c xc nh bi
ng knh si, qu
trnh un, nng sut,
mu sc, v bn
trong ng knh
si l cht lng quan
trng nht xc nh
c tnh v gi c
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2. Phn loai
Trong thc t th c nhiu
loi len v cht lng ca
chng khc nhau:
Len lng cu
Len Cashmere
Len Angora:
Len lng cu Merino
Len Alpaca:
Hnh 1: Len t vt liu tng hp
c mt khp ni vi kch thc
mu sc v gi c phi chng
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Len lng cu thng: mm mi v nhi tt hn. Vy nn, chng s m va bn
hn
2. Phn loai
Hnh 2: Lng cu 5
Len Cashmere : ckh nng cch
nhit gp 8 ln so
vi len thng,
gip n gi m
vo ma ng.
y cn l mt
loi len siu nh.
1: Phn loai
Hnh 3: Cc nh khoa hc
v d nhn bn Noori
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Len Angora:Si len loi
ny mm, mn,
mng v rt
bng.
1.1: Phn loai
Hnh 4: D Angoraziege
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Len lng cu Merino: mm nht trongcc loi lng cu, c kh nng gi nhit
tuyt vi, bn p v khng gy kh
chu cho da.
1.1: Phn loai
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Len Alpaca: Loiloi len ny c lng
mm nh Cashmere
v nh hn lng
cu thng thng.
Lng Alpaca gi
nhit tt, mm v
bn.
1.1: Phn loai
Hnh 5: Cu Alpaca
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1.2.Tinh cht
chung
Nhcim
u im
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2. Cu tao x len :
Lp vay: nm ngoi cung, nm xui chiunh vy ca. Lp vy ny l c th ringca len.
Lp v: l phn chinh ca x len, nm tiptheo lp vy. Lp v c cu to t nhiut bo hinh ng, nm dc theo truc x, tothnh th x.
Lp loi: lp loi cu to t nhng t bo hinhdng khac nhau, nm xen k vi nhngkhong trng cha khng kh. 4/14/2015
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3. Thanh phn ho hoc:
Keratin chim 90-
93%
Nonkeratin
(m sap, nhnt bao..).
Chim 7-10%
Si len
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4. Tinh cht
l - ho cua
x len:
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4. Tinh cht l ha cua x len:
4.2. Tinh cht ho l:
Mach co nhiu nhom NH2,-COOH,-NH-CO co cu truc mt
li khng co vung tinh th nn len
co th hp th 30-35% hi nc
Kem bn kim, cac lin kt amid(-NH-OH-) bi thuy phn, nu
nng thp lam len vang v th
cng.
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5. X l vi len
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5.1. t u s
Ngoai tr vi n, da,cc loai vi len nnt u x. Tc vi trong my t 60-90 m/pht.
Vi len
Vi n
Vi len pha vi cellulose
mi cn qua b phn
dp la sau khi t.
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5.2. Git len Git x: ngi ta dng
Washing-machineLeviathans.
My ny c nhiu thngln cha dng dich gitty, len s c i ln ltqua cc thng theophng php chia nhnhhoc gat nghin.
My git cng nghip
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Git vi
Mc ich: o l tch cht bi trn v chth (nu c), v cht bi trn d lm vi bi oxyha.
Cc phng php git nh:
Trch ly bng cc dung mi ha tan chtbo.
Hp th cht bo bng cht hp th.
X phng ha v nh ha
5.2. Git len
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5.3. Ty len
Trong t nhin cc ht Pigment mu vngnm su trong t bo hnh hnh ng ca s, loi b cn ty trng, dng ha cht phhy ht pigment ny.
C hai phng php ty len:
Dng cht kh: SO2, Na2HSO3, Na2S2O4
Dng cht oxy ha: cho trng cao hn vu im hn pp cht kh: H2O2,Na2O2....Thng th dng H2O2 tt hn.
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5.4. Tao nhung (cn min vi len).
Mc ch:
oTo cho vi dy, to cch in v cch nhit
oLm tng p chovi.
oLm cho cc x len mast vi nhau. Vi Len
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Cc yu t nh hng n cht lng:
B mt ngoi ca x len c lp vy bao ph
co gin ca x len.
X len cng mnh th tao nhung cngcao.
Len c th to nhung trong mi trng acidhoc kim trung bnh
Nhit .
5.4.Tao nhung (cn min vi len).
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nh hnh nhitm lm thay icc tnh cht cl, kch thc cavi di tc dngca nhit v m.
5.5.inh hnh
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Lm cho x sch vbng hn.
Lm cho len c khnng hp ph thucnhum cao hn.
5.6. Cacbon ha
Nhm loi b http cht thc vt rakhi len.
Cc tp cht thcvt ny lm cho vixu i, khng nmu thuc nhum,gim bnmu..
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Nguyn t Cacbon
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6. NHUM BNG THUC NHUM ACID
6.1. i lc thuc nhum
i lc cao
Mi trng c pH= 6-7.
Acid ammonium acelate
i lc TB Mi trng
c pH= 6.
Thucnhum lacid acetic.
Vi H2SO4cht lm umu
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i lc thp
Mi trngc pH= 2-4
S dng acidH2SO4 lmthuc nhum.
6.2. QUY TRNH CNG NGH
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Cn ch :
pH, nhit .Cht xc tc lm tc dung ca
nhum xy ra chm (thng
dng dung dch sodium sulfate).
Thuc nhum pH sodium sulfate ( % )
i lc thp 2-4 10-20
i lc trung bnh 4-6 10-20
i lc cao 6-7 5-10
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6.2. QUY TRNH CNG NGH
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7. NHUM BNG THUCNHUM PHC KIM LOI
7.1. GII THIU
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- Phc kim loi c cht phc
chrome.
- n nh, bn git ca vi
len.
-D nhum, cho u v mu
sc, bn nh sng v git tt
i vi x len.
7.2.QUY TRNH CNG NGH CHO
THUC NHUM, KIM LOI 1:1
C 1 nguyn t chrome kthp vi 1 phn t thucnhum. Dung dch nhumbao gm: sulfuric acid(66Baum): 810%; chtu mu: 25%; pH = 2.
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7.2. QUY TRNH CNG NGH CHO
THUC NHUM, KIM LOI 1:1
Ngm vi 600C, c cht tr t cho v hnhp acid v cht u mu vo, gi trong
mt thi gian ngn khng gia nhit.
Cho thuc nhum ha tan nhit sivo.
Nng nhit t t ln ti nhit si (trongkhong thi gian 30 pht), gi nhit ny
trong khong 90 pht.
Git x vi dung dich 5% sodium acetat
7.2. QUY TRNH CNG NGH CHO
THUC NHUM, KIM LOI 1:2
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C 1 nguyn tchrome kt hp vi 2phn t thuc nhum.Dung dich nhum baogm: acetic acid(80%), ammoniumsulfate: 1-2g/l; chtu mu: 0,5-1%,pH=5.
Phn t
ammonium sulfate
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7.2. QUY TRNH CNG NGH CHO
THUC NHUM, KIM LOI 1:2
Vi c ngm trong vi pht 400CNng nhit n gn nhit si, gi nhit ny trong vng 30-45 pht, gim nhit
t t v git x.
Mt vi loai len nhay cm, thch hp vi quytrnh nhum 850C, trong khon 45 pht, sau
o em git x 1000C (15 pht)
8. NHUM BNG THUC NHUM
HOT TNH
Gn ln s bng mi lin kt ng ha tr nhit si, pH=7.
T l tn trch khi dng loi thuc nhumny cao.
C 2 phng php chn thuc nhum: tntch hay cun lnh, cn kim sot nhit v pH cn thn.
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8. NHUM BNG THUC NHUM
HOT TNH
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8. NHUM BNG THUC NHUM
HOT TNH
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8. NHUM BNG THUC NHUM
HOT TNH
C 3 quy trnh nhum vi len l
1. Nhum bng thuc nhum acid
2. Nhum bng phc kim loi
3. Nhum bng thuc nhum hot tnh
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TNG KT
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