Research ArticleEffect of Coastal Waves on Hydrodynamics in One-Inlet CoastalNador Lagoon, Morocco
Jeyar Mohammed, Elmiloud Chaabelasri, and Najim Salhi
LME, FaculteΜ des Sciences, UniversiteΜ Mohammed Premier, 60000 Oujda, Morocco
Correspondence should be addressed to Elmiloud Chaabelasri; [email protected]
Received 15 September 2015; Revised 15 November 2015; Accepted 26 November 2015
Academic Editor: Agostino Bruzzone
Copyright Β© 2015 Jeyar Mohammed et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons AttributionLicense, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properlycited.
Nador lagoon is a coastal system connected to the sea through a narrow and shallow inlet; understanding its hydraulic performanceis required for its design and operation. This paper investigates the hydrodynamic impacts of the whole lagoon due to tidal wavesusing a numerical approach. In this study we use a two-dimensional, depth-averaged hydrodynamic model based on so-calledshallow water equations solved within triangular mesh by a developed efficient finite volume method. The method was calibratedand validated against observed data and applied to analyze and predict water levels, tidal currents, and wind effects within thelagoon. Two typical idealized scenarios were investigated: tide only and tide with wind forcing.The predicted sea surface elevationsand current speeds have been presented during a typical tidal period and show correct physics in different scenarios.
1. Introduction
An understanding of the physical oceanography of coastalareas provides a foundation for the study of processes suchas hydrodynamics, as well as a basis for effective man-agement of the coastal zone. Integrated water managementof endangered coastal areas could be able to restore theirecosystems. Numerical models have been developed andapplied to coastal areas, in order to simulate hydrodynamicand environmental processes. These models constitute anadministrative tool for decision makers in order to apply theright measures to restore the endangered coastal environ-ments.
Coastal lagoons are areas of shallow, coastal water, whollyor partially separated from the sea by sandbanks, shingle,or, less frequently, rocks. Lagoons show a wide range ofgeographical and ecological variations. The most importantof them in Moroccan coasts is Nador lagoon.
Nador lagoon is located on eastern coast; recently, it hasbeen the subject of many investigations on water quality,currents, flora, fauna, fishing, and aquaculture [1, 2]. Mostof these studies deal with the environmental aspects of thelagoon such as biological [3] and geochemical impacts [4].However, to the best of our knowledge, there are no research
studies on the modelling of hydrodynamics in the Nadorlagoon.
In the literature there are some examples of hydrody-namic estimation in coastal lagoon, among others; Brenonet al. [5] determine the effects of tidal influenced hydrody-namics on the water circulation in the Ebrie lagoon using avertically averaged two-dimensional model and present casetests that explore the effects of trade winds and of large riverdischarges; Ferrarin et al. [6] develop an application of a 2Dfinite element model to the lagoons of Marano and Gradosimulating the current regime and the salinity distribution inorder to derive a hydraulic regime-based zonation scheme.Recently, Serrano et al. [7] describe the tidal hydrodynamicsin a coastal lagoon with two inlets, using a two-dimensionalnumerical model, calibrated with records of sea levels andtidal currents; their model is applied to study the impact andchanges of hydraulic regime in the presence of two efficientinlets.
The aim of this paper is the application of a developed2D finite volume method to the Nador lagoon, based on thewell-established shallow water system including bathymetricforces, Coriolis effects, friction terms, and eddy-diffusionstresses, simulating the impact of wind and tidal waves onthe hydrodynamics circulation inNador lagoon; here the flow
Hindawi Publishing CorporationModelling and Simulation in EngineeringVolume 2015, Article ID 156967, 8 pageshttp://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2015/156967
2 Modelling and Simulation in Engineering
7.0
6.3
5.6
4.9
4.2
3.5
2.8
2.1
1.4
0.7
0.0
Bath
ymet
ry (m
)
Nador city
KarietArakman
Taouima
Old inlet
New inlet
Nador lagoon
Mediterranean Sea
N
Y(k
m)
730 735 740 745725X (km)
505
510
515
520
Figure 1: Location and bathymetry of the Nador lagoon study area.
is forced by the components of semidiurnal tidal at one realinlet. Recently, the same model has been widely used asshown, for example, in Lovato et al. [8] and Panda et al.[9]. The calibration, followed by validation, of the hydraulicmodel is the first step of its use. It is to simulate a given periodand to compare the outputs of the model with observationby adjusting the Manning coefficient in numerical model.For model calibration, numerical simulation of water levelthroughout lagoon has been made during the period of May2014; good agreement is obtained between the water levelsand simulated ones. Circulations of the whole basin are theninvestigated with different conditions of tidal flow at inlet andwind.
2. Material and Method
2.1. Description of the System. TheNador lagoon is the secondlagoon complex of northern Africa (115 km2), the broadestparalic environment of Morocco, and the only one locatedalong the Mediterranean coast of this country. It comprisesa broad area bounded to the northwest by the Beni-Ensarcity, to the southeast by the village of Kariat Arekmane,and to the southwest by the northern extremity of the Bou-Areg plain (Figure 1). This lagoon is protected by northwestand southeast elongated sandy spit (25 km length), withan average width between 300m and 400m (2 km nearthe southeastern corner) and a small height less than 8m,only interrupted by an artificial inlet limited by two jettiesthat communicates it with the Mediterranean Sea namedBoukhana inlet. The external hydrodynamics of this coastalarea depend on the tidal regime, the littoral drift currents, andthe prevailing waves. The tidal regime of the Mediterraneanregion ismicrotidal and semidiurnal, and the sea surface levelchanges reaching 0.35m near the lagoon inlet [10].
2.2. Hydrodynamical Model. State the relative shallowness ofthe lagoon in relationship to its surface area and its length;inviscid shallow water equations were used to simulate seasurface elevations, current fields due to tides, and storm surge
and investigate the responsible forcing mechanisms [11].The depth-averaged approach is believed to be adequate inestuaries that are not strongly stratified; if the vertical velocityvariations are limited on the evidence of density surveys,the potential contribution to the mean flow of this forcingmechanism is negligible and the fluctuations in horizontalpressure are principally due to fluctuations in water level andare therefore barotropic. The effects of the Earthβs rotationare very weak due to the small dimensions of the basin, soCoriolis forcing also has not been taken into account.
Based on the simplifications described above, the primi-tive form of depth-integrated governing equations includes acontinuity equation and momentum equation in each of theπ₯ and π¦ directions which are defined as follows:
πβ
ππ‘
+
π (βπ’)
ππ₯
+
π (βV)ππ¦
= 0,
π (βπ’)
ππ‘
+
π (βπ’2+ πβ2/2)
ππ₯
+
π (βπ’V)ππ¦
= βπβ
πππ
ππ₯
β
πππ₯
π
+
ππ€π₯
π
,
π (βV)ππ‘
+
π (βVπ’)ππ₯
+
π (βV2 + πβ2/2)ππ¦
= βπβ
πππ
ππ¦
β
πππ¦
π
+
ππ€π¦
π
,
(1)
where β is the water depth, π’ and V are the depth-averagedvelocities in the π₯ and π¦ directions, respectively, π is thegravity constant, π is the water density, and π
ππ₯and πππ¦
arethe bed shear stress friction forces in the π₯ and π¦ directions,respectively, defined by the depth-averaged velocities:
πππ₯
= ππΆππ’βπ’2+ V2,
πππ₯
= ππΆπVβπ’2 + V2,
(2)
where πΆπis the bed friction coefficient.
The surface stress ππ€is usually originated by the shear of
the blowing wind and is expressed as a quadratic function ofthe wind velocity:
ππ€π₯
= ππ΄πΆππ€π₯βπ€2
π₯+ π€2
π¦,
ππ€π¦
= ππ΄πΆππ€π¦βπ€2
π₯+ π€2
π¦,
(3)
where πΆπis the coefficient of wind and π = (π€
π₯, π€π¦)π is the
velocity of wind.
2.3. Finite Volume Method. In the present study, a numericalmodel has been used to simulate the hydrodynamics behaviorof Nador lagoon. The finite volume method is used to solvegoverning equations (1) discussed above, while using anunstructured triangular mesh (see Figure 2). A cell-centeredfinite volume method approach is used in this model, in
Modelling and Simulation in Engineering 3
Nadorlagoon mesh
W1
Wk
Wi
Edgeij
nij
Wj
N(i) = (j, k, l)
Figure 2: Nador lagoon mesh used in computational model andschematization of an example cell-centered finite volume.
which the average values of conserved variables are storedat the center of each cell with the edges of a cell definingthe interface between this cell and the neighboring cells. Inthe currentmodel, schemes and techniques whose robustnessis widely recognized were used: especially, the Roe-MUSCLscheme for computing convective flow fluxes and VaΜzquezscheme for treatment of the term source. This model isinitiated and developed by Elmahi et al. in [12] and refinedand tested in real and complex areas by Chaabelasri et al. in[13β16].
To simplify, the above hydrodynamic equations can bewritten in a matrix form as follows:
ππ‘U + ππ₯F + ππ¦G = S. (4)
Herein U = (β, βπ’, βV)π, F = (βπ’, βπ’2 + 0, 5πβ2, βπ’V)π,G = (βV, βπ’V, βV2 + 0, 5πβ2, βπ’V)π, and S = (0, βπβπ
π₯ππβ
(πππ₯
βππ€π₯
)πβ1, βπβπ
π¦ππβ (πππ¦
βππ€π¦
)πβ1) are the vectors that,
respectively, contain the flow variables, the fluxes in the twoCartesian directions, and the source terms. In the context oftriangular finite volumes, the integral around the element iswritten as the sum of the contributions from each edge, suchthat
Uπ+1π
β Uππ
Ξπ‘
ππ
+ β
πβπ(π)
β«
Ξππ
F (Uπ,n) πΞ
= β
πβπ(π)
β«
Ξππ
S (Uπ,n) πΞ,(5)
where Uπ is the vector of conserved variables evaluated attime level π‘π = πΞπ‘, π is the number of time steps, Ξπ‘ is thetime step, Ξ
ππis π-π edge, π(π) is set of neighboring triangles
of cell π, |ππ| is the area of cell π
π, and n is unit vector normal
to Ξππpointing towards cell π
π. To evaluate the state Uπ+1, an
approximation is required of the convective flux terms at eachedge of the cell. To evaluate the integral along the π-π edge ofa control volume of the normal fluxF(Uπ,n) = Fπ
π₯+Gππ¦an
upwind scheme based on Roeβs approximate Riemann solver
is employed [14, 17β19]. At each cell edge the normal flux is asfollows:
β«
Ξππ
F (Uπ,n) πΞ
=
1
2
{F (Uπ,nππ) +F (U
π,nππ)} β πΏππ
β
1
2
{π (U,nππ)
A (U,n
ππ)
πΏ (U,n
ππ) β (U
πβ Uπ)}
β πΏππ,
(6)
where π and πΏ are the right and left eigenvector matrices ofthe flux Jacobian evaluated using Roeβs average stateU and |A|is a diagonal matrix of the absolute values of the eigenvectorof the flux Jacobian matrix [14].
The evaluation of source terms in (5) is carried out suchthat the discretization of the source term is well balancedwiththe discretization of flux gradients using the concept of C-property [20]. The upwinded approximation of source termreplaced by numerical source vector is given by
β«
Ξππ
S (Uπ,n) πΞ = {I β A (U,n
ππ)
A (U,n
ππ)}
β Sπ (Xπ,Xπ,Uπ,Uπ,nππ) β πΏππ,
(7)
where I is the identity matrix, A(U,nππ) is the Roe flux
Jacobian, and Sπ represents an approximation of the sourceterm on the cell interface. Oncemorewe refer to [14] formoredetails about used numerical schemes.
Finally, the stability criterion adopted has followed theusual in explicit finite volumes; the time step is set accordingto the Courant-Friedrichs-Lewy (CFL) criterion equal to0.65.
2.4. Numerical Setup. The numerical computation has beencarried out on a spatial domain that represents the lagoonof Nador through a finite volume grid which consists of8075 triangular elements and 14042 nodes. The bathymetryof the lagoon, obtained by combining several data sets, hasbeen interpolated onto the grid. The finite volume methodallows for high flexibility with its subdivision of the numericaldomain in triangles varying in form and size. It is especiallysuited to reproduce the geometry and the hydrodynamics ofcomplex shallow water basins such as the Nador lagoon. Theprincipal hydraulic forcing of the Nador lagoon is the tideand thewind.Themain astronomical tidal constituents in thislagoon are semidiurnalπ
2, π2, andπ
2tides [21]
β (π‘) = β (π‘ = 0) + β
π
π΄πcos (π
ππ‘ + ππ) , (8)
where π΄πΎis the wave amplitude the angular frequency and
the tide phase of πΎth tidal constituent, noting that πΎ, πΎ =π2, π2, π2. In this model, the boundary condition is the fact
that always no drying case is considered and the tide has beenimposed at the beginning of the main inlet.
4 Modelling and Simulation in Engineering
SSE
(cm
)
20
0
β20
Time (day)
20 May 2014β22 May 2014 RMSE = 14.3%
140 141 142
SimulationsObservations
(a)
SSE
(cm
)
20
0
β20
132 133 134
12 May 2014β14 May 2014 RMSE = 13.6%
Time (day)
SimulationsObservations
(b)
Figure 3: Predicted and observed SSE versus time for validation (b) and verification (a) period.
Using the numerical model must begin with calibrationand verification by means of adjusting Manningβs roughnesscoefficient. This strategy was done using tidal flow at theinlet, extrapolated from harmonic analysis of measured flowin Beni-Ensar harbour, for two days (approximately four tidalcycles). One set of data (12 to 14May 2014) was used formodelcalibration and another separate set (20 to 22 May 2014) formodel verification. Typical predicted and observed values forsea surface elevation SSE versus time are presented in Figure 3showing a success agreement.Moreover, calculated RMSE forboth cases is less than 14%.
3. Results and Discussions
In order to achieve a stable time-periodic solution, themodel was run for further 5 days, forced by π
2, π2, and
π2semidiurnal tidal components. After reaching the stable
time-periodic regime, experiments were carried out for threescenarios of a typical tidal cycle with different wind forcing.Firstly, we analyzed the calm case. Then, western and easternwind forcing cases are considered. In each instance, wetreated the wind as steady and homogeneous to show theresulting water circulation.
Table 1 summarizes the parameters used in simulationruns.
3.1. Tide Currents Speed and Elevation. In the first case onlythe tidal forcing is considered and no wind is prescribed.Thenumerical simulations are presented in Figure 4 that showsfour snapshot states of the sea surface level in Nador lagooncorresponding to one typical period. Significant changes insea surface level are confined to the local area of lagoon.The value of sea surface elevation is reduced significantlygreatly near the inlet and reduced inside the lagoon. Thevalues oscillate from a maximum of 70 cm to a minimumof β20 cm compared to reference state, during the selectedtypical tidal, without exceeding a difference of approximately10 cm between the maximum and minimum height in each
Table 1: Parameters of the hydrodynamic model.
Parameter Symbol ValueTime step Ξπ‘ β3 sWater density π
π€1025Kgβ mβ3
Air density ππ΄
1.225 Kgβ mβ3
Wind drag coefficient πΆπ
1.14 β 10β3mβ sβ1
measure. Hence, it can be concluded that the tidal forcingat inlet is able to induce sea surface level oscillations withinthe lagoon. The water exchange between lagoon and oceanshould be mostly produced by this level of oscillations.
To quantify the speed spreading of the waves and morebehavior understanding, velocity fields and their magnitudesare presented for the hole basin in Figure 5. Also, a timeseries of computed current velocity at Boukhana inlet in onetypical tidal period are presented in Figure 6. It is clear thatthe flow speeds are great near the inlet and in the inside ofthe lagoon, the speeds are reduced during the tidal cycle, andthe great circulation is formed. Tidal gradients at the inlet setup high tidal currents, reaching about (2, 2β2.4msβ1) and (1,5β2msβ1) in the flood and ebb time, respectively, at the inletwhich decrease progressively along the south/north shores ofthe lagoon. Further, the circulation comprises three principalgyres, the sense of gyres is both cyclonic and anticyclonic, andalso other small gyres are distributed far in inlet in the edge, inthe southeast and in the northwest of the lagoon. Physically,these gyres are the consequence of the cooscillations withtidal waves propagation in the neighboring sea or ocean andto rapid dissipation of the tidal energy.
From environmental viewpoint, certainly, the spatialvariability in water circulation was controlled by the intricategeometry of the lagoon, which influences and modifies thecurrent pattern, but also, this result shows a relation to thecurrent tide structure which, during the period analyzed,was controlled by sea water. The spatial variability of watercirculation has a noticeable influence in the risk assessment of
Modelling and Simulation in Engineering 5
Sea s
urfa
ce el
evat
ion
(cm
)Se
a sur
face
elev
atio
n (c
m)
Sea s
urfa
ce el
evat
ion
(cm
)Se
a sur
face
elev
atio
n (c
m)
t/T = 0 t/T = 0.25
t/T = 0.5 t/T = 0.75
β22.5
β21.9
β21.4
β20.8
β20.3
β19.7
β19.2
β18.6
31.0
31.9
32.8
33.7
34.6
35.6
36.5
37.4
51.0
54.2
57.3
60.5
63.7
66.9
70.0
73.2
β8.0
β7.5
β7.0
β6.6
β6.1
β5.6
β5.1
β4.6
Figure 4: Time sea surface level in Nador lagoon during a typical period.
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)Cu
rren
t spe
ed (m
/s)
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)Cu
rren
t spe
ed (m
/s)
t/T = 0 t/T = 0.25
t/T = 0.5 t/T = 0.75
0.0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
0.0
0.2
0.3
0.5
0.7
0.8
1.0
1.1
1.3
1.5
1.6
1.8
2.0
0.0
0.2
0.4
0.5
0.7
0.9
1.1
1.3
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
0.0
0.1
0.2
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.9
1.0
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.5
Figure 5: Velocity fields and magnitudes corresponding to those in Figure 4.
6 Modelling and Simulation in Engineering
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)
Tidal cycle
Nβ4
β3
β2
β1
0
1
2
5 10
(Hours)
Figure 6: Time series of computed current velocity (top) at Boukhana inlet in a typical tidal period.
Western wind (2m/s)Eastern wind (2m/s)
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.9
1.2
1.5
1.8
2.1
2.4
2.8
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.9
1.2
1.5
1.8
2.1
2.4
2.8
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)
0.0
0.3
0.6
0.9
1.2
1.5
1.8
2.1
2.4
2.8
Curr
ent s
peed
(m/s
)
No wind
Figure 7: Comparison of velocity fields and magnitudes in Nador lagoon for the wind cases.
water pollution in the lagoon. Thus, careful characterizationof water renewal is necessary, in order to implement amethodology of risk assessment for environmental manage-ment.
3.2. Tide and Wind Induced Circulation. In this study, thewind is imposed from the east on one hand and the west onthe other hand. Its intensity is 2m/sβ1. When the tidal forcingis supplemented by the wind action, the lagoon circulationchanges radically. Figure 7 represents a numerical compar-ison of current speed between the no wind case and wind
cases. The most noticeable lagoon response to the northeastwind forcing was the deformation of numerous permanentcirculations in different areas of the lagoon according tothe sense of wind direction. Moreover, the wind affects thewhole lagoon surface and is capable of inducing some gyresformation in the central and northern sectors. These gyresrotate in a clockwise direction and are connected to eachother. Hence, it can be concluded that the gyres are formedbecause of the depth gradient in these regions, implying thatbottom topography plays an important role in determiningthe circulationwithin themain body of the lagoon local water
Modelling and Simulation in Engineering 7
movements. Still, this does not imply water exchange with thesea.
4. Conclusion
This paper has presented the application of comprehensivehydrodynamic numerical procedure, specifically conceivedfor shallow water modelling, to the Nador lagoon. Throughthis numerical model, simulations of the effect of tide andwind on water current of the lagoon are carried out. Thenumerical results show correct physics in different testregimes.The influence of different winds forcing on the watercirculation has also been discussed. Nevertheless, flows insuch complex domains can be computed, providing correctphysics without the need for generating adaptive grids orcomplicated reconstruction of numerical fluxes. Overall,the method shows reasonable accuracy while ensuring therequired properties of the shallow water flows. Finally, muchmore efforts are required.Themodel calibration with experi-mental or observed data will be a challenge for future studies.
Symbols
β: Total depth from the sea bed to the freesurface (m)
π’, V: Cartesian components of depth-averagedvelocity (m/s)
ππ: Bed elevation above a fixed horizontal
datum (m)π: Acceleration due to gravity (m/s2)π: Water density (kg/m3)ππ΄: Air density (kg/m3)
ππ₯,ππ¦: Components of wind speed (m/s)
ππ,π₯
, ππ,π¦: Bed shear stress components
ππ€,π₯
, ππ€,π¦
: Free surface shear stress componentsπΆπ: Bed friction coefficient
πΆπ: Wind drag coefficient
π‘: Time (s)π₯, π¦: Cartesian horizontal distances from
origin.
Conflict of Interests
The authors declare that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper.
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