RECENT TRENDS AND REGULATORY UPDATE FOR EXPORTING APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS TO EMERGING MARKETS July 2014 Christy Chan
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section Content
1 STAY COMPETITIVE IN THE INDUSTRY
2 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES OVERVIEW FOR APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR
3 SOLUTIONS TO THE MARKET
MARKET SITUATION
Consumer safety in spotlight
Marks deliver trust
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) more concerned
More green commitments
HOW TO BE SUSTAINABLY SUCCESSFUL?
Regulatory compliance
Buyer/Customer expectation
System Improvement
How could YOU stay competitive?
New markets
VALUE ADDING IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN
RAW MATERIAL
Is it extracted in a sustainable way?
PROCUREMENT
Is the material hazard-free?
DESIGN
Is it a eco-friendly design?
MANUFACTURING
Is the worker condition compliant with regulation?
PACKAGING
Is the package non-excessive and green ?
OVERALL CONTROL
Are the goods ok for shipment ?
RETAIL
Is the service up to standard?
END OF LIFE
Is there any recycle system ?
CURRENT MARKET CHALLENGES
Global Regulatory Challenges • More and more countries are imposing regulatory requirements for the
presence of residual chemicals in textile and footwear products. • Brands and retailers need to meet differing requirements in order to gain
global market access. • National governments conduct surveillance to ensure compliance.
NGO Challenges • NGOs conduct market surveillance to ensure products are safe to use. • Most remarkable campaign (known as DETOX) was launched. • Emails, online social media (facebook, twitters), letters, street-side
campaigns aim to raise awareness amongst consumers. • This campaign initiated fundamental changes within the textile supply chain
RECENT RECALL CASES WORLDWIDE
EU RAPEX RECALL
Azo dyes 303 mg/kg
Product: Children’s jeans Date: 27 Dec 2013 RS Requirement:
Azo dyes: 30 mg/kg each Corrective Actions:
Voluntary recall by suppliers Country of Origin: Bangladesh
US CPSIA RECALL Product: Children’s Shoes Date: 20 Feb 2014 Requirement: No Sharp Edge Corrective Actions: Product recall Country of Origin: China
Laceration Hazards
Contains Sharp Edge
TAIWAN RECALL
Product: Infant’s walking shoes Date: 1 April 2013 RS Requirement: Phthalate (DEHP+DBP+BBP+
DINP+DIDP+DNOP≤ 0.1%w/w) Other violation: No labelling and Country of Origin
Information Corrective Actions: Product seizures Country of Origin: Unknown
Phthalate 38.2% DEHP
CHINA RECALL
Product: Children’s leather coat Date: 12 Nov 2013 RS Requirement: Free formaldehyde (150 ppm limit) Corrective Actions: Does not say, but general footwear
buying tips have been given to consumers Country of Origin: China
Formaldehyde 646 mg/kg
Sources: 1. EU RAPEX: http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/dyna/rapex/rapex_archives_en.cfm 2. US CPSIA: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prerel.html
3. China AQSIQ: http://cpzljds.aqsiq.gov.cn/ (Chinese only) 4. Taiwan BSMI: http://www.bsmi.gov.tw/wSite/index.jsp (Chinese only)
WHEN EAST MEETS WEST
Japan established Japanese Law 112, with the earliest textile chemical regulation for Formaldehyde in apparel in Asia
India is the second Asian country launching chemical regulation. Certain Azo Dyes are banned in textile and apparel.
1970s
1990s
2000s Introduction of China GB 18401-2003 in textile products includes the restriction of Azo Dyes, Formaldehyde and pH value
More new regulations entered into force » Korea (KC Mark) » Taiwan (CNS 15290) » Egypt Regulations » Vietnam (Circular 32/2009/TT-BCT)
REGULATIONS THROUGH THE EMERGING MARKETS: THE TREND
COMMON RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE
CHINA EGYPT INDIA JAPAN SOUTH KOREA
TAIWAN VIETNAM
Azo Dyes X X X X (proposed)
X X X
Formaldehyde X X X X X X
pH value X X
Organotins X X X
Phthalates X X
Flame retardant X X X
Lead X X X
Cadmium X X
Cr(VI) X X
Organotin X X X
AZO DYES
What are Azo Dyes? Dyes which contain at least one azo bond (-N=N-). Outstanding fastness and wide spectrum Major dyes in different dyes classes Some of the aromatic amines in reductive cleavage are
carcinogenic Only those produced aromatic amines which are listed/found
to be carcinogenic or suspected carcinogen are concerned!
Aromatic amines Azo dyes
FORMALDEHYDE
What is Formaldehyde? Volatile organic compound (VOC) with pungent odour
Major Applications Raw material for RESIN in finishing textile and leather
upper materials Leather preservative Production of adhesives for outsole bonding
Concern in textile industry Irritate to eyes, nose and respiratory system Cause skin allergy and mucous membrane irritations
HEAVY METALS
Where they can be found? Pigments, metal coatings, plastics (as a heat
stabilizer) and constituent materials Examples: Lead, Cadmium
Concern in textile industry Certain metals are highly toxic and can cause
damaging effects even at very low concentrations. They tend to accumulate in the food chain and in the body and can be stored in soft (e.g. kidney) and hard tissues (e.g. bone)
NICKEL RELEASE
Where they can be found? Making alloys with other metals to increase hardness
and resistance to corrosion Added to cutlery to increase its strength and polish Found in metal accessories : buttons, Zippers, Rivets
Concerned in textile industry Trigger dermatitis owing to prolong contact
CHROMIUM (VI)
What is Chromium VI? Chromium is a heavy metal. Chromium has several
oxidation states, including Cr(III) and Cr(VI).
Concern in textile industry Used as dyes and pigments in fabric dyeing and leather
tanning process leather is tanned by Cr(III) tanning agents in majority
[chromium(III) sulphate] Corrosive to skin and can cause allergic reactions Chromium (VI) and certain Chromium (VI) compounds are
known carcinogens
PHTHALATES
What are phthalates? Mainly used as plasticisers in plastics (especially PVC) to
increase softness and flexibility
Concern in textile industry Risk to human health and environment Bioaccumulative Endocrine disruptor Carcinogenic listed
FLAME RETARDANTS
What is flame retardant? Inhibit or resist the spread of fire Used in textiles to reduce their flammability Naturally occurring substances such as asbestos Synthetic materials: usually halocarbons such as PBDEs, PCBs have
been used in this capacity:
• Effective flame-retardant • applied to prevent electronics, clothes and furniture from taking fire
Concern in textile and footwear industry These flame retardants are suspected to be carcinogenic and
mutagenic
They are bioaccumulative in the biological tissues and along the food chain
ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
What are Organotin Compounds? Compounds containing at least one tin-carbon bond
Why they are concerned? Very toxic to marine and freshwater organisms Damage liver & kidney system Disrupt biochemical process such as blood forming mechanism and
enzyme system
R = hydrocarbon group
QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS
GB 18401 - Textile Products
TEST ITEMS CATEGORY A CATEGORY B CATEGORY C
Formaldehyde 20 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
pH value 4.0 – 7.5 4.0 – 8.5 4.0 – 9.0
Azo Dyes (24 items) Forbidden (20 mg/kg)
Colourfastness
Water 3 – 4 3 3
Acid perspiration 3 – 4 3 3
Alkaline perspiration 3 – 4 3 3
Dry rubbing 4 3 3
Saliva 4 3 3
Odour None None None
Products for infants (36 month or under) should comply with Cat. A technical requirement Products with direct contact to skin should at least comply with Cat. B technical requirement Products without direct contact to skin should at least comply with Cat. C technical requirement
QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS
GB 20400 – Leather and Fur
TEST ITEMS CATEGORY A CATEGORY B CATEGORY C
Formaldehyde 20 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
Azo Dyes (23 items) 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg
Category A: Products for babies (≤ 24 months) Category B: Products with direct contact to skin Category C: Products without direct contact to skin
QUICK REVIEW OF CHINA REGULATIONS
GB 21550 – Restriction of Hazardous materials in Polyvinyl Chloride Artificial Leather
Restricted Substance Restricted Limit
Vinyl Chloride Monomer (VCM) < 5 mg/kg
Soluble Heavy Metals:
Soluble Lead
Soluble Cadmium
< 90 mg/kg
< 75 mg/kg
Other Volatile Substances < 20 g/m2
QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS TEST ITEMS ES 7266-3
HOME TEXTILE ES 7266-4
GARMENTS ES 7266-5
CARPET RUGS ES 6535 / ES 7322
LEATHER BAG
ES 3571 / ES 3572 / ES 7322 SHOES
Formaldehyde X X X X X
Azo Dyes X X X X X
Navy Blue X X X X X
Carcinogenic Dyes X X X
Phthalates X X X
Flame Retardants X X X
Cadmium X X X X X
Lead X
Nickel Release X X X X
Chromium (VI) X X
Soluble Heavy Metals X
Pentachlorophenol X X
Vinyl Chloride Monomer X X
pH Value X X
QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS
TEST ITEMS LIMIT
Formaldehyde Textile and leather garment Children product: 20 mg/kg
Direct contact with skin : 75 mg/kg Indirect contact with skin: 300 mg/kg
Leather bag and shoes Textile: 75 mg/kg
Leather: 150mg/kg
Azo Dyes 30 mg/kg
Navy Blue 0.1%
Carcinogenic Dyes Prohibited
Phthalates DEHP, BBP, DBP, DINP, DNOP, DIDP: 0.1% (each)
Flame Retardants PBB, TRIS, TEPA: prohibited
Cadmium Prohibited (50 mg/kg)
Lead Children product: 300 mg/kg
Nickel Release 0.5 μg/cm2/ week
Chromium (VI) 3 mg/kg
QUICK REVIEW OF EGYPT REGULATIONS
TEST ITEMS LIMIT
Soluble Heavy Metals Antimony: 60 mg/kg Arsenic: 25 mg/kg
Barium: 1000 mg/kg Cadmium: 75 mg/kg Chromium: 60 mg/kg
Lead: 90 mg/kg Mercury: 60 mg/kg
Selenium: 500 mg/kg
Pentachlorophenol Natural textile / leather : Free (1 mg/kg) Natural substance (wood used in footwear): 5 mg/kg
Vinyl Chloride Monomer 1 mg/kg
pH Value Leather: not less than 3.5
QUICK REVIEW OF INDIA REGULATION
Notification No. 3 (RE 2001) / 1997-2002
Notification No. 12 (RE 2001) / 1997-2002
TEST ITEMS LIMIT
Azo Dyes (22 items) 30 mg/kg
QUICK REVIEW OF JAPAN REGULATION
Act on Control of Household Products Containing Harmful Substances (Act No. 112)
Requirement for textile products:
TEST ITEMS LIMIT
Formaldehyde Baby: Not detected (A-Ao <0.05) Others: 75 mg/kg
Organotins (TBT, TPhT) Not detected
Organomercury compounds Not detected
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (DBA, BaA, BaP)
3 mg/kg (each)
Flame retardants (TEPA, TRIS, BDBPP) Not detected
DTTB 30 mg/kg
Dieldrin 30 mg/kg
Azo Dyes (proposed) 30 mg/kg
QUICK REVIEW OF TAIWAN REGULATION
CNS 15290 – Textile Products
TEST ITEMS BABY DIRECT SKIN CONTACT
INDIRECT SKIN CONTACT
INDOOR DECORATION
Formaldehyde 20 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
Azo Dyes 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg
Cadmium (in textile accessories)
Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Lead in surface coating (children for age ≤ 12 only)
90 mg/kg 90 mg/kg 90 mg/kg 90 mg/kg
Organotins TBT: 0.5 mg/kg TPhT: 0.5 mg/kg
TBT: 1.0 mg/kg TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg
TBT: 1.0 mg/kg TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg
TBT: 1.0 mg/kg TPhT: 1.0 mg/kg
Physical safety requirement (children for age ≤ 12 only)
Comply with CNS 15291:2009
QUICK REVIEW OF SOUTH KOREA REGULATIONS TEXTILE PRODUCTS
TEST ITEM INFANT CHILDREN INNERWEAR MIDWEAR OUTERWEAR / BEDDING
Formaldehyde 20 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
pH Value 4.0 – 7.5 4.0 – 9.0
Azo Dyes 30 mg/kg
Organotins TBT: 0.5 mg/kg
DBT: 1.0 mg/kg TBT: 1.0 mg/kg
Dimethylfumarate 0.1 mg/kg
Phthalates (total) DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DNOP, DIDP: 0.1%
DEHP, DBP, BBP: 0.1% N/A N/A N/A
Lead 90 mg/kg (metal: 300 mg/kg) N/A N/A N/A
Cadmium 75 mg/kg N/A N/A N/A
Nickel Release 0.5 μg/cm2/week
Cords and drawstrings Conformance N/A N/A N/A
Flame Retardants TDBPP, PentaBDE, OctaBDE: Prohibited
Disperse Dyes Prohibited N/A N/A
Magnet 50 kG2mm2 N/A N/A N/A
Small Part No small part after tension test N/A N/A N/A N/A
QUICK REVIEW OF SOUTH KOREA REGULATIONS LEATHER PRODUCTS
TEST ITEM INFANT CHILDREN INNERWEAR MIDWEAR OUTERWEAR / BEDDING
Formaldehyde 20 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
Pentachlorophenol 0.5 mg/kg 5 mg/kg
Chromium (VI) 0.5 mg/kg 3 mg/kg
Azo Dyes 30 mg/kg
Organotins TBT: 0.5 mg/kg
DBT: 1.0 mg/kg TBT: 1.0 mg/kg
Dimethylfumarate 0.1 mg/kg
Phthalates (total) DEHP, DBP, BBP: 0.1%
DINP, DNOP, DIDP: 0.1% DEHP, DBP, BBP:
0.1% N/A N/A N/A
Lead 90 mg/kg N/A N/A N/A
Cadmium 75 mg/kg N/A N/A N/A
Nickel Release 0.5 μg/cm2/week
Magnet 50 kG2mm2 or not small part N/A N/A N/A
Small Part No small part after tension test N/A N/A N/A N/A
QUICK REVIEW OF VIETNAM REGULATIONS
Circular 32/2009/TT-BCT for Textile Product
TEST ITEMS CHILDREN PRODUCT
DIRECT SKIN CONTACT
INDIRECT SKIN CONTACT
Formaldehyde 30 mg/kg 75 mg/kg 300 mg/kg
Azo Dyes (22 items) 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg 30 mg/kg
QUICK REVIEW OF SAUDI-ARABIA
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR WOVEN AND KNITTED GARMENTS
TEST ITEMS LIMIT
ph of the aqueous extract 4.0-7.5
Formaldehyde kids: 20 ppm Adult: 75 ppm
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