*Common quality defects in garments and how to prevent or fix them.
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1. Fabric Defects
Sometimes issues found in garments can occur during production of the raw fabric, or textile, prior to use in garments.
Drop StitchesDye MarksLaddering
Bad selvedge Shade variationHorizontal lines
Fabric defects overview
ImperfectionsContaminantsStains
Drop stitches are randomly appearing holes in the fabric.
Drop Stitches
Ensuring a uniform yarn
tension in the machine
Regulating the yarn feed rate
Making sure to use yarn with
no imperfections for stitching
Prevent drop stitching by:
Thoroughly inspecting the base grey fabric prior to stitching & using the appropriate dying agent
Maintaining the correct pH
Using a power backup to ensure the machine does not shut down during use
Dye marks
Dye marks are irregular patches on the surface of dyed fabrics.Prevent dye marks by:
Source: textilelearner.blogspot.com
Laddering
Laddering is where vertical lines appear in the fabric due to broken needles.Prevent laddering by:
Checking for uniform yarn tension
Periodically changing or replacing
needles
Removing blockages in the feeder
Stains
Stains appear as spots or patches of grease, oil or dyes of different color.Prevent stains by:
Regularly cleaning machines
Guarding moving parts
Using plastic to protect
the fabric
Bad selvedge
Bad selvedge occurs when the fabric ends are too far apart for the yarn thickness.Prevent bad selvedge
Properly maintaining equipment
Ensuring you have the proper
settings on the machine for the
fabric you are using
Shade variation
Shade variation is a difference in the depth of shade from roll to roll or piece to piece. Prevent shade variation by:
Ensuring you use one lot of yarn
for one shade of color and use a
single set of parameters for the
same lot
Horizontal Lines
Horizontal lines are irregular lines running from side to side across the fabric.Prevent horizontal lines by:
Regularly replacing the bobbin
Consistently checking thread
tension and positioning
2. Workmanship/Handling Defects
Workmanship issues are those directly caused by the production processes of the garments themselves.
Seam puckeringShading variationOpen/broken seams
Untrimmed threadSizing out of toleranceMisaligned buttons and holes
Workmanship Defects Overview
Broken stitchesDrop/skipped stitchWavy stitching
Seam Puckering
Seam puckering is the bunching of a seam.To prevent seam puckering:
Check the thread tension during
sewing
Make sure fabric is fed through
the machine at a constant rate
Shading Variation
Shading variation refers to differing color shades within garments.To prevent shading variation:
Ensure workers are only combining
garments of the same color and
not taking shortcuts when cutting
and bundling
Proper numbering different cuts of
fabric that vary in shade
Open/Broken Seams
Open seams are unstitched openings in seams seen in isolated units.To prevent open seams:
Ensure workers are properly folding
garments and not putting strain on
the seam, as well as not cutting
corners when sewing
Broken Stitch
Broken stitches are evident as non continuous threads.To prevent broken stitches:
Ensure workers aren’t too
aggressive when trimming threads
Ensure thread is being fed properly
into the sewing machine
Drop stitch/skipped stitch
Drop stitches are irregular instances of stitching along the seam.To prevent drop stitches:
Ensure workers aren’t too rough
when handling or cutting
Ensure the sewing machine is
properly calibrated
Wavy stitching
Wavy stitching occurs when stitches do not follow a straight line.To prevent wavy stitching:
Ensure workers aren’t too rough
when cutting & the sewing
machine is properly maintained
Make sure the correct needles are
used for sewing
Untrimmed thread
Untrimmed thread refers to extra or loose thread along a seam line.To prevent wavy stitching:
Ensure workers are vigilant when
performing internal QC and know
how to properly trim excess thread
dimensions out of tolerance
Dimensions that are out of tolerance indicate differences in measurements of parts of a garment.To prevent dimension intolerance:
Ensure workers have the proper
measurement specifications and
use the proper patterns
Conduct first article inspection of a
single piece of each size to identify
any issues with dimensions early
Misaligned buttons and holes
Misaligned buttons and holes usually occur due to worker error.To prevent misalignment:
Ensure workers are following
specifications
Ensure workers are vigilant at
the end of the production line
to catch any issues during
internal QC checks
Defects of the color, size or placement of trim such as embroidery, print or zippers.
3. Trim & accessory defects
Trim broken/insecure/inoperableTrim differs from specificationsTrim bleeding
Trim Defects Overview
Trim broken/insecure/inoperable
Trim operation issues are those where a clothing accessory is broken or trim isn’t secure.To prevent trim operation issues:
Ensure workers aren’t rushing
through production
Catch any issues and address
them during internal QC checks
• Incorrect color• Incorrect size• Missing trim
Trim differs from specification
Sometimes trim differs from the buyer’s specifications. Cases of this could include:
To prevent specification deviance:
Ensure all workers are familiar with
the specifications
Keep a product sample on hand for
use as a guide for production
Source: thriftyfun.com
Trim bleeding
Trim bleeding occurs when the color of the trim leeches or transfers onto the garment fabric. To prevent trim bleeding:
Ensure the garment is labeled with
instructions for care
Follow instruction for care as per
the manufacturer’s care label
1. textilelearner.blogspot.com2. ehow.com3. thriftyfun.com
references
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