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1988 6: 41Clothing and Textiles Research JournalSoae L. Paek and Helen B. Winsor

Effect of Varying the Twist Multiplier of Open-End Yarn on Pilling and Other Fabric Properties  

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Effect of Varying the Twist Multiplierof Open-End Yarn on Pilling and

Other Fabric Properties

Soae L. Paek

Helen B. Winsor

Authors’ Address: Department of Human & Family Resources,Northern Illinois University, DeKalb, IL 60115.

Abstract

Pilling has been one of the major consumer problems of man-made staple yarn products. This study evaluatedthe pilling performance of 65/35% Dacron/cotton fabrics woven from open-end (OE) yarns by the RandomTumble Pilling Tester Method (ASTM Test Method D3512-82) and the Elastomeric Pad Method (ASTM TestMethod D3514-81) at five specified test intervals. The effect of twist level of warp and filling yarns on pillingpropensity, flex abrasion, tensile strength, and breaking elongation was also investigated.

Pilling produced by the Random Tumble Pilling (RTP) procedure was mainly fiber fuzz and loosely anchoredpills; that produced by the Elastomeric Pad Method (EPM) was large scale pills and fiber entanglement whichdid not wear off readily.ANOVA test revealed that the twist level of warp yarns had a significant influence on thepilling characteristics

as evidenced in both pilling tests. Twist level of filling yarns influenced EPMpilling ratings only intermittently.The effect of twist level of warp yarns was highly significant for the warp direction on flex abrasion, tensilestrength, and breaking elongation. On the other hand the twist level of filling yarns influencedfilling tensile andbreaking elongation.

The major findings of the study indicate that pilling performance was significantly influenced by pilling testmethod and testperiod. The low and intermediate twist levels of OE yarns investigated did not consistently affectthe pilling and other fabric properties analyzed.

Textile engineers have made efforts to develop newspinning systems to provide increased productivity anduniformity in yarn and fabric manufacturing. New weavingand knitting technology requires a high degree of yarnregularity and a larger yam package. Ring-spinning (RS) hasinherent limitations in meeting these requirements(Tewksbury, 1981). Open-end (OE) spinning, on the otherhand, provides large yarn packages and uniform products.OE spinning also reduces at least one yarn operation since itis a sliver-to-yam system.The structural and physical properties of OE and RS

yams, as they affect end-use performance of fabrics wovenfrom those yarns, have been investigated by numerousresearchers. As a consequence of the difference in the

spinning methods, RS yarns are better aligned with the yamaxis but are more hairy, whereas OE yams are more likely tohave a twisted core and loosely wraped sheath with trailing

loops. Consequently, the latter are bulkier and display lowerstrength but higher extensibility than corresponding RSyams. The twist levels necessary to obtain adequate as wellas maximum yam strength are much higher for OE yamsthan for RS yams (Mohamed, Lord, & Saleh, 1975;Simpson & Murray, 1978).Other studies have reported that an increase of twist level

improves abrasion resistance, strength, elongation, andhairiness of OE rotor spun yarns of cotton and polyester-cotton blends (Barella & Manich, 1984; Manich, Barella &Vigo, 1981; Marino, Garofalo, Barella, & Manich, 1984;Mohamed et al., 1975). However, the effect of twist level ofOE yarns on hairiness for some man-made fibers and

polyester/cotton blends has been reported to be less

important than in RS yarns.Mohamed and Lord ( 1973) reported that the effect of yarn

type and yam twist on fabric properties differed from theproperties of the yams in a free state. The inclusion of OEyams into woven fabrics affects the topography and

properties of the fabrics. Although the effect of yam type

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(i.e., OE vs. RS) on the strength, soiling, and wear propertiesof fabrics have been investigated by several researchers(McKinney & Broome, 1977; Mohamed & Lord, 1973;Morris & Prato, 1978), the influence of twist level on thepilling and related performance properties of test fabricswoven from blended OE yarns warrants further in-

vestigation.Pilling has long been recognized as a problem with staple

fibers. Since the advent of man-made fibers, pilling hasbecome one of the major consumer complaints with knittedand woven fabrics having low twist yarns and loose fabricstructure. Pilling itself is not believed to influence yambreakdown and fabric failure but it affects fabric aesthetics.

Findings of recent studies revealed that yarn and fabricfailure can be formed in localized fabric areas when pillformation and pill growth occur at a high rate (Cooke, 1984,1985).

Pilling is a complex process and the mechanism involvedvaries according to fiber type, yam and weave geometry, andthe nature and velocity of abrading forces. It was reportedthat pills were generated from the area with highly densefuzz fibers (Cooke, 1983). When fuzz fibers became

entangled and could no longer align themselves with

abrading force, pill growth was promoted through fiber pull-out and fiber roll-up. Hence, pilling propensity was

determined by the balance between the rate of fuzz

formation, fiber entanglement, and fuzz and pill wear-off(Cooke, 1983, 1984; Gintis & Mead, 1959).

Hairiness, low twist level of yams, and slack fabricstructure were reported to favor fuzz formation and fiberentanglement and pill growth (Cooke, 1983, 1984; Gintis &

Mead, 1959; Mohamed & Lord, 1973; Mohamed et al.,1975). Long staple lengths also promoted the developmentof large pills. On the other hand, high tensile strength andflex life decreased the rate of pill wear-off (Cooke, 1983).Gintis and Mead (1959) reported that man-made fibers,especially polyester and nylon, displayed only moderate rateof pill formation but low rates of pill loss. The rate of fuzzformation and pill wear-off were believed to have a greatereffect on pilling while the fiber entanglement stage was lessimportant to pilling.

Pilling test methods which accurately measure the typeand degree of pilling as it occurs in wear situations have notbeen investigated extensively. Farmer, Earl, and Balfrey(1972), after a review of pill test methods, reported that theBrush and Sponge Test and the Appearance Retention Testwere inappropriate due to inaccuracy and proceduraldifficulties. The investigation of the Random Tumble PillingTester Method revealed a lack of rating reproducibility and afailure to produce the type of pills found in actual wear forsome fabrics. To remedy the situation, the Elastomeric PadMethod (EPM) was developed and adopted by ASTM(1985). This test method was reported to predict pilling for avariety of fabrics (Farmer et al., 1972).The overall objective of the present study was to

investigate the pilling performance of low and intermediatetwist OE yams spun from low pilling propensity Dacron andcotton. The specific objectives were (1) to compare thepilling performance of test fabrics evaluated by two ASTMpilling test methods, namely, the Random Tumble Pilling

Tester Method (ASTM Test Method D3512-82) and

Resistance of Apparel Fabrics to Pilling (Elastomeric PadMethod) (ASTM Test Method D3514-81) and (2) to

investigate the effect of the twist level of warp and fillingyams on pilling propensity, stress-strain characteristics, andabrasion properties of 65/35% polyester/cotton fabricswoven from open-end yams.

Materials and Procedures

Test Fabrics. All open-end yarns in the study were spunon a Schlafliurst auto-core open end frame. Sixteen test

samples were woven from 65/35% Dacron/cotton blendwarp and filling yarns spun from 1.25 denier 3.81 cm hightenacity and low pilling propensity Dacron fiber and carded2.22 cm Texas cotton. The fiber was spun into size 16 count

warp and filling yams of 3.25, 3.50, 3.75, and 4.0 twistmultipliers (TM). Test fabrics were woven by combiningfour TM of warp yams with those of filling yams resulting in16 (4X4) samples of different warp and filling twist levels.The mean thread counts and weight of test fabrics were 28 X17 per CM2 and 182.80 g/m2 respectively.All test fabrics underwent mercerizing and sanforizing in

addition to singeing, desizing, and cold bleaching. They werelaundered three times in a top loading automatic washer withthe manufacturer’s recommended amounts of a heavy dutypowder detergent, then tumble dried using the permanentpress cycle for both laundering and drying processes.

Pilling Evaluation. The tendency of fabrics to form pillswas evaluated by two test procedures, the Random TumblePilling Tester Method (ASTM Test Method D3512-82) andResistance of Apparel Fabrics to Pilling (Elastomeric PadMethod) (ASTM Test Method D3514-81) (ASTM, 1985).For the Random Tumble Pilling (RTP) test, three specimensof 10.6 cm were cut on the 45 degree bias and sealed withUbagrip cement before they were conditioned and tumbledfor 30 minute test intervals under the prescribed test

conditions (65% ± 2% RH and 70° ± 2°F). A panel ofthree judges evaluated each specimen after one, two, three,six, and eight 30-minute test intervals of tumbling bycomparing samples to the standards developed as indicatedin the test procedures on a 1-5 rating, ranging from 1= severepilling to 5=slight or no pilling.

Resistance of apparel fabrics to pilling by the ElastomericPad Method (EPM) was conducted on three round

specimens 10.2 cm in diameter. Specimens were abradedunidirectionally under a 1 lb. load for 300, 600, 900, 1200,and 1500 strokes. Rubbed areas were evaluated by the panelusing small size photographic standards on a 1-6 ratingscale, ranging from 1=severe pilling to 6=no pilling. Anadditional rating of 6 was added for this investigation toaccommodate test specimens which showed little or no

pilling after the specified number of abrasion strokes. Pillsproduced under the two test procedures were further

examined under the microscope and through scanningelectron micrographs.Flex Abrasion. The resistance of test fabrics to flexing

and abrasion was determined by the C.S.I.-Stoll-Quarter-master machine according to ASTM Test Method D3885-

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80. The number of cycles required to rupture was

determined for five warp and five filling samples under 1 lb.tension and head loads. Results are reported separately.

Tensile Strength and Breaking Elongation. One inchravelled strip tests (iR) of five warp and five fillingspecimens were conducted according to ASTM Test

Method D1682-64 (Reapproved 1975) using a constant-rate-of-traverse tester with the machine speed set at 12 ±1/2 inch per minute. The average dry breaking load andbreaking elongation of warp and filling directions were

reported in pounds and percentage at rupture. The abovetests were carried out under standard conditions of 65 ± 2%relative humidity and 70° ± 2° F as specified by the testmethods.

Statistical Analyses. A two-way analysis of variance wascomputed to determine the significant differences in pilling,stress-strain, and flex abrasion measurements due to TM ofwarp and filling yams. The Duncan’s multiple range test atthe 0.01 level was used to analyze the difference betweenmeans when F was found to be significant.

Results and Discussion

Pilling Measurements. The mean RTP ratings of 16 testfabrics at five specified test intervals are shown in Table 1.Most test fabrics appeared to display noticeable changes inappearance as indicated by the pill ratings after the 30-minute tumble pilling process. Close examination under amicroscope disclosed widely scattered short fiber fuzz inmost test samples and a few small pills on some test samples.The mean pill ratings of most individual samples decreased(2=slight pilling) gradually as testing progressed and

reached their lowest ratings at the 90-minute test interval.

From that point fuzz and pill density seemed to be reducedas pilling ratings increased. To confirm these observations,the number of pills on randomly selected 2 X 2 CM2 areas oftest samples at 90- and 240-minute test intervals wascounted using a microscope. Fiber entanglements whichinvolved more than four fiber ends were regarded as a pill.The number of pills on individual test samples ranged from 2to 6 with an average of 4.8 pills for the 90-minute test periodand 0 to 4 with an average of 2.2 pills for the 240-minute testintervals. This result indicates that pills wore off during thelater test periods, which confirms the pilling process

postulated by earlier researchers (Cooke, 1983; Gintis &

Mead, 1959).The mean EPM pill ratings of 16 test samples at five

specified test intervals are shown in Table 2. The EPM pillratings of most individual samples were higher than RTPratings at the first test interval. However, pill ratings of a fewtest samples decreased considerably at the later test

intervals. Microscopic examination revealed that the

average pill counts of 2 X 2 CM2 abraded areas at 900 and1500 strokes reached 3.8 and 3.5 respectively. The repeatedrubbing action against a confined surface area of this testappeared to promote large scale pill growth through fiberpull-out and roll-up processes as the test progressed. TheSEM of Test Sample 1 illustrates twisted and entangledfibers after 1200 EPM strokes (see Figure 1).

In contrast to the EPM, the tumbling action of the RTPprocedure involves a cutting, flexing, bending, twisting, andrubbing action which seemed to produce fiber fuzzes andloosely anchored small pills which started to wear off at thelater test intervals. The large pill growth through fiber pull-out and tight fiber entanglement was conspicuously absent.Figure 2 reveals the SEM of fibrillation and longitudinalcracks found in Test Sample 16 after the 180-minute RTP

Table 1. Mean random tumble pilling rating of test fabrics at the specified test intervals.

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Table 2. Mean Elastomeric Pad Method Pilling Rating of test fabrics at the specified test intervals.

Figure 1. The SEM Sample 1 which illustrates twisted andentangled fibers after 1200 EPM strokes.

procedure. These phenomena appear to explain the type ofpilling observed at the different stages of two test

procedures.E,ffect of Twist Level of Pill Ratings. The result of an

analysis of variance on RTP and EPM pilling ratings at fivespecified test intervals is shown in Table 3. Figures 3 and 4illustrate RTP ratings of warp and filling direction at

specified test intervals. The twist level of warp yamssignificantly influenced pill ratings of the first four test

intervals.Duncan’s multiple range test, Figure 3, revealed that 3.75

TM of warp yams contributed significantly more to pilling

Figure 2. The SEM of Test Sample 16 which reveals fab-rillation and longitudinal cracks after 180-minuteRTP procedure.

propensity than three other twist levels (4, 1, 2>3) at the

30-minute test interval. At the 60-minute test interval, 3.25and 4.0 TM outperformed the other two intermediate TM(1, 4> 2,3 ). At the 90-minute and 180-minute test intervals,3.25 TM outperformed 3.75 and 4.0 TM respectively.The twist level of the filling yams, on the other hand, had

no significant influence on the pilling performance of the testfabrics which could be due to the unbalanced weavestructure of the test fabrics. Warp yarns would have beensubjected to more flexing and abrasion than filling yams.The interaction between warp and filling yarn twist levelswas not significant throughout the test period.

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Table 3. Analysis of variance for mean random tumble pilling and elastomeric pad method ratings.

Figure 3. Mean RTP pill ratings pooled according to warp TM atspecified test intervals.

An analysis of variance on EPM pilling ratings (see Table3) showed that the effect of TM of warp yarns was highlysignificant on pill ratings of test fabrics at all test intervalsexcept the last. Duncan’s multiple range test, Figure 5,revealed that the two higher twist levels contributed

significantly less pilling of the test fabrics than the two lowerTM at 300 strokes (4,3>2>1) and the 1200 strokes (3,4>2,1 ). At 600 and 900 strokes 4.0 TM outperformed theother three TM (4>2,3,1). The above result appears toindicate that higher warp twist levels contributed to less

Figure 4. Mean RTP pill ratings pooled according to filling TM atspecified test intervals.

pilling as expected at all four test intervals.The effect of filling twist level on pill ratings of test fabrics

was highly significant at 300, 900, and 1500 strokes.Duncan’s multiple range test, Figure 6, reveals that anintermediate twist level (3.5 TM) reduced pilling. Theinteraction between warp and filling TM was significant atall test intervals. Therefore, the effect of TM in one directionwas influenced by the effect of TM in the opposite direction.These findings indicate that the pilling mechanism producedby the rubbing action of the EPM pill test is a complex

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Figure 5. Mean EPM pill ratings pooled according to warp TM atspecifed test intervals.

phenomenon and could be influenced by multiple factorswhich include fiber type as well as yam and weave geometryas postulated by earlier investigators (Brand & Bohmfalk,1967; Mohamed et al., 1975). The relationship betweenthese variables requires further investigation.Flex Abrasion. The results of an analysis of variance for

mean flex abrasion, tensile strength, and breaking elongationare shown in Table 4. The twist level of warp yams had a

highly significant effect on the number of flex abrasioncycles required to rupture the warp direction, but not the

filling direction, of test fabrics. However, the twist level ofthe filling yams had no significant effect on the abrasionresistance of both warp and filling directions. Duncan’smultiple range test indicated that the warp abrasionmeasurements of 3.75 twist level of warp yams was

significantly lower than those of 3.5 and 4.0 TM (2,4>3).No possible explanation for this result can be found withinthe limitation of this investigation. The interaction betweenwarp and filling TM was significant for both warp and fillingabrasion.

Tensile Strength. An analysis of tensile measurementsrevealed that the twist level of warp yams significantlyinfluenced the breaking strength in the warp direction andthat the filling yarn twist level affected filling tensile

measurements (see Table 4). This result seems to conformto the expected outcome. The Significant Mean DifferenceTest showed that 3.75 TM of both warp and filling yamsyielded lower tensile measurements in both directions. Theeffects of warp TM on flex abrasion and on tensile strengthwere the same. Therefore, within the limit of this study, thesetwo performance properties appear to be associated witheach other.

Breaking Elongation. The twist level of warp yarns

significantly influenced warp elongation, while that of fillingyams affected both warp and filling measurements (seeTable 4). The warp and filling yams with 4.0 TM producedsignificantly higher warp elongation than two low twistlevels (4>2,1 ). For the filling direction, 3.25 TM yieldedhigher filling elongation than the intermediate twist level( 1 > 3). The interaction between warp and filling twist levelswas significant.

Figure 6. Mean EPM pill ratings pooled according to filling TM atspecifed test intervals.

.

Summary and Conclusion

The pill ratings differ for the two ASTM pilling test

methods. Pilling mechanisms involved in each test weredifferent. The Random Tumble Pilling (RTP) procedureproduced mainly fiber fuzzes and loosely anchored lint pillswhich started to wear off at the later test intervals. TheElastomeric Pad Method (EPM) pilling procedure pro-moted a iarge scale piii growth through fiber pull-out andtight fiber entanglements on a few samples which did notwear off readily. These findings challenge an earlier report(Gintis & Mead, 1959) which contended that the pillingprocess was mainly influenced by fuzz formation and pillwear-off; therefore, fiber entanglement played an insig-nificant role. The fmdings of this investigation indicate thatonce fiber entanglements are formed, they are anchoredtightly and grow larger as the test progresses.The effect of twist level of OE yams on RTP and EPM

pilling ratings indicates that the TMs of the warp directionwere significant throughout the first four test intervals,whereas the TMs of the filling direction influenced EPMmeasurements only intermittently.Duncan’s multiple range test indicated that the effect of

warp twist level on RTP measurements varied according totest intervals which seemed to be related to the different

stages of pilling, i.e., fiber fuzz, small lint pills, and pill wear-off postulated by earlier researchers (Gintis & Mead,1959).The significant mean difference of EPM pilling ratings

indicated that while the higher twist level of the warpdirection improved pilling scores of the first four test

intervals, no consistent pattern was found for the fillingdirection. The interaction effect of warp and filling twistlevels was significant for EPM pill ratings but not for RTPscores at all test intervals. This finding seems to indicate thatEPM pilling is a complex process and may be influenced bythe interaction among mechanical pilling actions, fiber type,and yam and weave geometry of fabrics as postulated byearlier researchers (Brand & Bohmfalk, 1967; Mohamed etal., 1975).

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Table 4. Analysis of variance for mean flex abrasive, tensile and elongation measurements.

’degree of freedom. bsum of square. *p<0.05. **p<0.01.

The effect of twist level of warp yams was highlysignificant for the warp direction of flex abrasion, tensilestrength, and breaking elongation but not significant for thefilling direction of those properties. The twist level of fillingyams influenced only filling tensile strength and breakingelongation measurements. These results conform to the

expected outcome that the twist level of warp and fillingyams has a direct bearing on the performance of therespective directions of fabrics.Duncan’s multiple range test results indicated that warp

flex abrasion was associated with warp tensile strength andthat warp and filling elongation was related to EPM pillratings. The twist levels investigated in this study did notconsistently yield significant differences in the fabric

properties investigated. It is possible that a new fiber type,i.e., high tenacity and low pilling propensity Dacron, in thetest fabrics might have influenced the results. Earlier studies(Mohamed et al., 1975; Simpson & Murray, 1978) alsoindicated that the twist levels required for adequate yamstrength were higher for OE yarns than for RS yams due tothe difference in yarn structures. It is possible that the rangeof twist level included in this study might not have been highand varied enough to have yielded significant differences inthe performance properties investigated.

Future studies should replicate the variables investigatedin this study and also explore the effect of a wider range oftwist variability on various fabric performance properties.The closer examination of pilling phenomenon of OE andRS yam fabrics should be made by SEM.

Acknowledgments

The authors wish to express appreciation to Russell Mills, Inc.,for providing the experimental fabrics and to Herman Bates ofRussell Mills, Inc., for his technical advice and support.

References

American Society for Testing and Materials. (1985).Annual book of ASTM standards (Section 7).Philadelphia: Author.

Barella, A., & Manich, A. (1984). Relation between twistand abrasion resistance of rotor spun yarns: Part II.

Polyester and blend yams. Textile Research Journal, 54,314-317.

Brand, R.H., & Bohmfalk, B.M. (1967). A mathematical

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model of pilling mechanism. Textile Research Journal,37, 467-476.

Cooke, W.D. (1983). The influence of fiber fatigue on thepilling cycle: Part II. Fibre entanglement and pill growth.Journal of the Textile Institute, 74, 101-108.

Cooke, W.D. (1984). Fibre fatigue and the pilling cycle:Part III. Pill wear-off and fabric attrition. Journal of theTextile Institute, 75, 201-211.

Cooke, W.D. (1985). Pilling attrition and fatigue. TextileResearch Journal, 76, 409-414.

Farmer, L.B., Earl, C.R., & Balfrey, A.G. (1972). A newtest method of pilling. Textile Chemist and Colorist, 4,167-171.

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Manich, A.M., Barella, A., & Vigo, J.P. (1981). Acontribution to the study of the hairiness of rotor-spunyams by means of the digital hairiness meter. Journal ofthe Textile Institute, 72, 121-131.

Marino, P.N., Garofalo, J., Barella, A., & Manich, A.M.(1984). 3-factorial studies in rotor-spinning: Part II.

Polyester-fibre and polyester-fibre-cotton blended-fibreyarns. Journal of the Textile Institute, 75, 23-27.

McKinney, M., & Broome, E.R. (1977). The effects oflaundering on the performance of open-end and ring-spunyams in jersey knit fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 47,155-162.

Mohamed, M.H., & Lord, P.R. (1973). Comparison ofphysical properties of fabrics woven from open-end andring-spun yams. Textile Research Journal, 43, 154-

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Mohamed, M.H., Lord, P.R., & Saleh, H.A. (1975). Acomparison of the hairiness and diameter of ring-spunand open-end yams. Textile Research Journal, 45, 389-395.

Morris, M.A., & Prato, H.H. (1978). End-use performanceand consumer acceptance of denim fabrics woven from

open-end and ring-spun yarns. Textile Research Journal,48, 177-183.

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