YUCATÁN PENINSULA, MEXICO: YUCATÁN, QUINTANA ROO (including ISLA COZUMEL), CAMPECHE 7-20 January 2013 By Michael R. Greenwald This year I decided to spend part of my winter break in Mexico. Never having been to Mexico before, I further decided that the most manageable area to bird on my own would be the Yucatán Peninsula. In addition to the relatively easy logistics, the peninsula and Isla Cozumel have several species or taxa endemic to the peninsula, the island, or to Mexico itself. One comment about timing however: January is not the best time of the year to go. Most birds were very quiet and finding them required patience and considerable effort. However, this is when my vacation is, and so this is when I went. My method for deciding where to go on the trip was based on Steve N. G. Howell’s A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico, the range maps in Howell and Sophie Webb, A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Northern Central America, and the birds that I needed as life birds. This means that I made no attempt to look for ducks, shorebirds, or most marsh birds. Their absence from this report should therefore not be interpreted as absence from the area at this time of year (or even as missed birds on my part). It just means that I did not look in appropriate habitats. I understand, for example, that there are beaches in the Yucatán and on Cozumel, but except during transit to and from Cozumel, I didn’t see any. Travel Resources Travel Guides

Bentwick, Greg. Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán. Lonely Planet. Oakland, CA and London: Lonely Planet Publications, 2010.

O’Neill, Zora and Fisher, John. The Rough Guide to Cancún and the Yucatán. 3rd edition. London: Rough Guides, 2011.

Maps

Borch [formerly Berndtson] map of the Yucatán (1:1,000,000), 2011. I found this to be entirely adequate except for one dirt road in Río Lagartos and for finding the correct turn-off to MX 180 libre on the north side of Valladolid. The only drawback to this map is that unlike some others, it does not show the location of the Pemex stations. This becomes an issue the farther one travels from a major city or town.

Bird-Finding Guides

Howell, Steve N. G. A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico. Ithaca, NY: Comstock, 1999. This is an excellent guide and an indispensible resource for planning a trip to Mexico. Despite the fact that it is now 14 years old, the information is still reasonably current (at least for the Yucatán Peninsula). The only important site that is missing is Calakmul in the State of Campeche. This means that in this report, I will refer to the appropriate section of Howell’s guide and will not repeat his information. I will, however, update Howell as the need arises.

Wheatley, Nigel and David Brewer. Where to Watch Birds

in Central America, Mexico, and the Caribbean. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 2001. – not nearly as detailed as Howell, but is useful nonetheless. I carry photocopies of the relevant chapters wherever I go. But except for the brief section on Calakmul, there is nothing that cannot be found in Howell.

Wauer, Roland H. Birder’s Mexico. College Station, TX:

Texas A&M University Press, 1999. Like his earlier (1996) book on the West Indies, this is not a bird-finding guide but a travelogue. It is fun to read nonetheless.

Field Guides

Howell, Steve N. G. and Webb, Sophie. A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Northern Central America. Oxford

and New York: Oxford University Press, 1995. Unquestionably the best guide to the birds of Mexico with far and away the best species accounts, but it has three drawbacks: 1.) It is heavy, but Mexico is a big country with a lot of birds - carry it anyway. 2.) It does not cover many of the North American migrants apt to be found in Mexico. If you are not thoroughly familiar with North American birds and their various plumages, you will need to carry a North American field guide as well. 3.) A personal annoyance: Howell and Webb treat as species those taxa that they believe ought to be considered separate species (a feature that is becoming increasingly common in field guides). I believe that these arguments belong in professional journals, not in field guides written for the general public. On the other hand, such accounts do alert the reader to possible future splits.

Peterson, Roger Tory and Chalif, Edward L. Mexican Birds. Peterson Field Guides. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1973. Very out-of-date and many species are not covered.

Edwards, Ernest Preston. A Field Guide to the Birds of

Mexico and Adjacent Areas. 3rd edition. Austin, TX: University of Texas Press, 1998. Some people like this as a lightweight alternative to Howell and Webb, but the illustrations are small, jumbled together, and sometimes placed wherever they fit without any regard to taxonomic order. As one might expect, the species accounts are significantly sparser than those in Howell and Webb.

van Perlo, Ber. Birds of Mexico and Central America.

Princeton Illustrated Checklists. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2006. This is exactly what the series says it is, an illustrated checklist, not a field guide. Illustrations and accounts are commensurate with that description.

Trip Reports from Blake Maybank’s “Birding the Americas” Website http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/maybank/main.htm

These are frequently more useful than most travel guides. To those who have written reports, thank you, but most especially, thanks to Blake Maybank for maintaining the website. Note: Since this report was written, it appears

that Blake Maybank has taken his site down. This report and future reports will appear at www.cloudbirders.com, which now seems to be the most current site on the internet]. There are many for the states of Yucatán and Quintana Roo but only one listed for Campeche. I carried those of Michael Retter (8-19 February 2010), Gail Mackiernan and Barry Cooper (28 February – 03 March 2007), and Paul Hudson (26 November – 6 December 2004) with me. I also used those of Gary and Marlene Babic (30 January – 6 February 2008), which does include Calakmul, and Gruff Dodd (26 May – 3 June, 2002). (see above – all are now available on Cloudbirders). Additional Resource A checklist of birds of the Yucatán Peninsula on Avibase compiled by Denis Lepage in 2012: http://avibase.bsc-eoc.org/checklist.jsp?lang=EN&list=aou&synlang=ES&region=MXyu&version=text Local Bird Guides See Gruff Dodd’s trip report for a list of names. I already knew of Arturo Bayona and Davíd Bacab but did not use them. The only guide that I did use was Jesus Santiago Contreras Marfil in Río Lagartos (not on Dodd’s list). He found me (more in the Río Lagartos write-up below). His English is a bit limited, but between my Spanish and his English, communication was not a problem. He is an excellent birder with excellent eyes and ears, and he does know the English names of the birds. He can be reached at chinocarbon@hotmail.com, Cell (986) 106 1592, Tel. # 01 (986) 862 0000 or through Hotel Villa de Pescadores or Isla Contoy Restaurante-Hotel in Río Lagartos. He goes by “Santiago.”

Travel Jet Blue from LaGuardia (LGA) to Fort Lauderdale, FL (FLL); FLL to Cancún, Quintana Roo, MX (CUN) - US$209.65 Aeromexico from CUN to JFK - US$253.41 Ultramar ferry from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel – M$156.00

Mexico Waterjets ferry from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen – M$155.00

Car Rental There are numerous car rental agencies in Cancún, including a number of local low cost agencies. However, there are also many caveats on Trip Advisor concerning car rental there. The most reliable (and one of the most expensive) is Avis, but I decided to pay for reliability. But that is not all. It is not clear what, if any, of US auto insurance is valid in Mexico. What is clear is that if you do not buy insurance, the rental car companies will put a $5000 hold on your credit card and charge you for every scratch. I therefore decided to take the maximum possible insurance. But that too is not all. Just as there is an 11% tax on the auto rental, this same tax is charged on the insurance. I rented a Hyundai (or Dodge – the car had both name plates) Attitude for 12 days for US$1082.46 (and yes, that is US dollars, not Mexican pesos). I might have been able to save ~$150 if I had rented away from the airport, but this might have meant an inconvenient rush when trying to return the car. If you look for a rental car on line, check to see whether or not the rental agency is in the airport; many are not. I had to rent a second car on Cozumel (see notes on logistics getting to Cozumel below). On the recommendation of the staff at the Flamingo Hotel, I rented from Isis Car Rental on 5th Av. Norte No. 181 between calles 2 and 4, a two-block walk from the hotel. This was entirely satisfactory. I rented a VW Golf with A/C for two days for US$110 including the 11% tax. I could have rented a VW bug for $15.00 less per day, but this would not have had A/C. The people at Isis even let me park the car in their lot overnight, saving me from having to look for street parking, which is illegal within several blocks of the plaza [zócalo] prior to 6:30 PM.

Driving in the Yucatán No problem. Most roads are paved (except as noted) and in excellent condition. Driving is not bad at all, except that many drivers drive much too fast. From what I understand, it is not a good idea for foreigners to do this. The roads are patrolled, but I had no problems. The one driving practice that takes some getting used to is that if a driver wants to pass, you are expected to

pull as far to the right as possible and turn on your left turn signal. The car behind you will take that as a signal that s/he is clear to pass. You will also need to get used to the topes (speed-bumps). These are strategically located in towns (and sometimes randomly located on highways) to slow traffic. If you miss one, you could leave parts of your car along the road and your teeth in your nose. They are usually signed either with a black and yellow road sign with two or three bumps, a car going over a bump, or just a black and white diagonally striped sign. Sometimes, however, the sign is behind a tree; sometimes there is no sign. Beware driving in the dark. One note: there is a cuota (toll road) from Cancún to just east of Mérida. It is very expensive, so almost no one uses it, thereby providing a textbook case for the law of diminishing returns. I used it from Valladolíd to the Cancún airport turn-off just to be sure that I made my flight. The total cost was M$251 or about US$21. Note too that if you drive east from Valladolíd, there are no exits prior to the airport exit.

Currency The currency of Mexico is the Mexican peso (M$), which at the time had an exchange rate that varied between M$11.5-12.5 to US$1.00. Some hotels and restaurants in tourist areas take US$, but this is not true everywhere. I used a debit card at HSBC ATMs to withdraw pesos. Caution: Many of the smaller towns have no banks or ATMs (none near Calakmul or Río Lagartos), so be sure that you have enough pesos to pay your bills. Some places, including most gas stations, do not take credit cards.

Language The language of Mexico is Spanish. Hotels and restaurants in major tourist areas will often have English speakers on their staffs, but this is not true on most of the peninsula. The best bet is to learn some Spanish. I think that I was scolded twice for travelling in Mexico without knowing enough Spanish.

Weather Most of the time the weather was sunny and warm (temperatures in the mid-70’s to low 80’s F). But early

in the trip it was very windy from about 8:30 AM onward, especially on Cozumel, and a strong “norte” came in while I was in Río Lagartos. Fortunately for me, the Yucatán was merely on the edge of a very bad weather front. Temperatures dropped to 12oF in Ciudad Juaréz (across the Río Grande from El Paso, TX) and to 0oF in Durango. The port of Veracruz was closed, and 16 people died in the State of Chihuahua.

Sunrise/Sunset Light enough for birding: ~6:10 AM - ~5:45 PM

Insects According to the CDC, there is no malaria in the states of Campeche or Yucatán and it is rare in Quintana Roo. They recommend that in lieu of anti-malarial drugs, one simply avoid being bitten by using insect repellent with at least 30% DEET. I did this but still got bitten a few times, especially along the Vigia Chico Road. I was also bitten by something (not mosquitos) through my socks and running shoes while atop a sand mound at the beginning of that road.

Shoes Whenever I travel, I am never sure what to wear on my feet. I brought both running shoes and Wellies along with me, but almost all of the time, running shoes were sufficient. The only exception was during the norte when the streets of Río Lagartos were flooded.

Impediment to Birding Most tourist sites, restaurants (including restaurants at hotels that include breakfast), and grocery stores do not open until 8:00 AM. Plan accordingly.

The Travel Plan The plan was to spend a night in Puerto Morelos and bird the Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo Barrera Marín (Howell Site 14.1) in the morning. From there move on to Cozumel (Howell 14.10) and spend two days and nights there. Then to Felipe Carrillo Puerto for two days and nights to bird the Vigia Chico Road (Howell 14.3) and then an equal amount of time at Calakmul. I left the next night open

either to return to Felipe Carrillo Puerto or go on to Cobá (Howell 14.2). I was then going to go on to Río Lagartos (Howell 14.4) for a night and from there to Celestún (Howell 14.8) for a night or two. That second night and the next night were also to be left open. The arrival of the above-mentioned norte made it fortunate that I had not made any reservations for the nights after the first night in Río Lagartos.

Accommodations (for comments and directions, see the Daily Log below)

Hacienda Morelos

Av. Rafael E. Melgar Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo 52 (998) 871-0488 e-mail: info@haciendamorelos.com website: www.haciendamorelos.com

Hotel Flamingo Calle 6 Norte Cozumel, Quintana Roo (800) 806-1601 (954) 351-9236 (Florida contact number) 52 (987) 87 21264 e-mail: flamingo@diveres.com website: www.hotelflamingo.com

Hotel Esquivel Calle 65 No. 746/66 and 68 Felipe Carrillo Puerto, Quintana Roo 52 (983) 834 0344 e-mail: esquivelhotel@yahoo.com.mx but they did not respond to my e-mails

Puerta Calakmul Km 98 on Highway 186 Campeche 52 (998) 892 2624 e-mail: reservas@puertacalakmul.com.mx website: www.puertacalakmul.com.mx

Hotel Villa de Pescadores

Calle 14 No. 95 x Av. Malecón Río Lagartos, Yucatán 52 (986) 862-0020/52 (986) 106-9161 e-mail: reserve@hotelvilladepescadores.com website: www.hotelvilladepescadores.com

La Vita è Bella

Km 1 Carretera Tulúm Ruinas Boca Paila, Tulúm, Quintana Roo (702) 475-8854 (US phone number) e-mail: info@lavitaebella-tulum.com website: www.lavitaebella-hotel.com

Daily Log January 8, 2013 I arrived in Cancún on time (2:36 CST) on Jet Blue from New York with a change in Fort Lauderdale. It took about 1½ hours to go through immigration, clear customs, and pick up the car. The Mexicans have a unique approach to randomizing customs searches: after collecting your luggage, you will get on a line at the end of which you will be asked to push a button. If it lights a green light, you are passed through; if the light is red, you will be inspected. I have read that the ratio is one red to seven greens. One caution: the ATM’s in the departure area of the airport were all out of order, so I had to change dollars at the airport. It would have been better had I changed about US$100 into pesos in New York. Picking up the car went smoothly, after which I headed for Puerto Morelos. The town has so far avoided much of the massive tourist development of the “Riviera Maya” that stretches from Cancún to Tulúm. I had made reservations at the Hacienda Morelos on line for US$80/night. One word about several of the on-line reservation systems: they are not made directly through the hotel but through a third party. Payment to Hacienda Morelos was made through a PayPal account. When I arrived at Hacienda Morelos, they had a record of the reservation but none of the payment. Be sure to make two copies of the receipt for payment, one for yourself and one to surrender at the hotel. The woman at the reception desk did accept that receipt as proof of payment. Note: she spoke no English. There is an HSBC ATM next to the supermarket across from the northeast corner of the main plaza. To reach Hacienda Morelos, take the exit off MX 307 (a divided 4-lane highway as far south as Tulúm)) to Puerto Morelos. Go 3/4 of the way around the traffic circle (glorieta) and under the highway and continue into Puerto

Morelos. Turn right on Av. Rafael E. Melgar (the last street). Pass the plaza. The hotel is the building with the cupola ahead on the left. Turn left into the parking lot. The lot is not locked at night, so it is easy to leave early in the morning. The rooms themselves are rather spartan, but they are clean and the air conditioner worked well. The rooms have a balcony overlooking the ocean, but this night, the wind was blowing strongly on shore. Birds seen en route from the airport were 2 Turkey Vultures, 2 Tropical Mockingbirds, and 5 Great-tailed Grackles. January 9, 2013 The plan for this morning was to meet a companion and bird the Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo Barrera Marín (Howell Site 14.1). The garden is on the east side of MX 307 about 2 km south of the traffic circle into Puerto Morelos. It is recessed from the road behind a white concrete gate and is easy to miss. Since you will need to drive south on MX 307 past the garden to a “retourno” (U-turn) and approach the garden from the south, watch for it on the left while you are heading south and then take the next “retourno.” A major problem with birding the Jardín is that it does not open until 8:00 AM. So after locating the garden, I returned to the traffic circle, re-entered the southbound lane, and turned right on the “Ruta de Cenotes” immediately opposite the garden. I birded along an unpaved road to the left off this road for about 20 minutes, but even at 7:35, it was already getting warm and quite windy. As on much of this trip, I was surprised at how quiet the area was. From Puerto Morelos to the highway I had seen 4 Magnificent Frigatebirds, one Brown Pelican, 4 White-winged Doves, a Tropical Mockingbird, and many Great-tailed Grackles (I did not try to count them). Along the limestone road off the Ruta de Cenotes I saw only 2 Turkey Vultures, a Gray Catbird, and a Tropical Mockingbird. I also heard what was probably a Mangrove Vireo, but I am not confident enough with the vocalization to definitively identify the bird. I returned to the garden a little before 8:00, but the gate was still closed. I pulled as close to the gate and as far off the highway as I could and waited. At 8:00, a worker arrived and he and I pushed the gate open (as it turns out, the gate was closed but not locked). The price of admission is M$100. No one working at the garden spoke any English. My companion had not arrived, so I birded within

a reasonable distance of the gate for a while. Except for a Golden-fronted Woodpecker and a Tropical Mockingbird, all of the birds were North American migrants. Some time later, a Canadian birder showed up, and so I decided my companion was not coming and went off with the Canadian, who had birded the garden many times before. We then split up, and I went on to complete the entire trail. When I got to the chiclero camp, there was apparently an ant swarm (which I did not find), based on the number and behavior of the birds. Most of the non-migrant birds that I found this morning were at the camp. Continuing on, I climbed the observation tower, which is connected to two other observation towers by hanging bridges. All seems to be quite sturdy, although one needs to take care on the hanging bridges (41 plank-steps from Tower A to Tower B and 31 from Tower B to Tower C). There is an alternative ground-level route for the faint of heart. Birds seen at the garden were one Black Vulture, 2 Caribbean Doves (not on Howell’s list of birds to expect), a Black-headed Trogon, 2 Yucatán Woodpeckers, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, a Boat-billed Flycatcher, a Tropical Kingbird, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, 3 Green Jays, 4 Yucatán Jays (not on Howell’s list of birds to expect), 2 Tropical Mockingbirds, an Ovenbird, a Northern Waterthrush, a Black-and-White Warbler, a Hooded Warbler, 2 American Redstarts, 2 Northern Parulas, 2 Magnolia Warblers, a Yellow Warbler (Setophaga petechia rufivertex), a Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, a Melodious Blackbird, and 2 Orange Orioles. At about 11:30, I headed south to Playa del Carmen for the ferry to Cozumel (Howell Site 14.10). Logistics for getting from the mainland to Cozumel At first blush, this isn’t easy. If one looks in the travel guide books or at one of the on-line consolidators (Kayak, Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, etc.), it would appear that the only way to fly from Cancún to Cozumel is through Mexico City, New York, or some place other than the Yucatán. However, one can fly from Cancún to Cozumel and back on Maya Air. Unfortunately, I did not find this out until January 20th when I was wandering around the Cancún airport and saw their flight on the departure board. When I returned to the US, I Googled Maya Air and found their website at https://www.mayair.com.mx. According to their website, they have six round trip flights per day for only $18.00 (M$220) each way. However they have a baggage

weight limit of 44 pounds and a carry-on limit of 11 pounds with a $3.00 per pound excess change. I do not know for certain if one can then rent a car in the Cozumel airport, but even if one can’t, one can take a taxi into San Miguel and rent one there. This all looks to be much better than what I did, which was: Drove south on MX 307 to Playa del Carmen. At the suggestion of one of the guidebooks, I took the by-pass around the city to avoid the traffic. I did not measure the distance, but it was much farther than I had anticipated. You are looking for Av. Benito Juaréz, which is where the by-pass ends at a T-intersection (there is a Pemex station at a major intersection before you get to Av. Juaréz). Turn left on Av. Benito Juaréz. Continue until the street becomes one-way against you. At this point you should turn left, and immediately on your right is an overnight parking lot. I parked the car here for two nights for M$150/night, and it was here that I encountered the biggest single problem of the trip. When I returned two days later, the parking lot attendants had moved the car under a fruiting fig tree. The car was covered with dried fig seeds and bird droppings as thick as the frosting on any cake. I managed to get the car to the pay station, and the attendants thought that it was the funniest thing that they had ever seen. It took me about 45 minutes to clean the car, and because I hadn’t paid immediately, the attendants wanted to charge me for the time I spent in the lot cleaning the car. That didn’t happen, but caveat emptor. To get to the ferries, exit the parking lot and turn left toward the Gulf of Mexico. In one block, turn right toward the park. When you get to the end of the park, turn left again down the hill, then right at the bottom of the hill. In one more block you will see the two ferries: México Waterjets and Últramar. They alternate departure times each hour but not every hour. There is no 2:00 PM ferry. Returning from Cozumel, there is no 1:00 PM ferry. While waiting for the ferry I saw 12 Magnificent Frigatebirds, ~50 Laughing Gulls, 8 Ruddy Turnstones, Rock Pigeons (I didn’t count them), 2 Great-tailed Grackles, and about half-a-dozen Northern Rough-winged Swallows that I could not identify to subspecies. Stelgidopteryx serripennis fulvipennis is a winter resident in the Yucatán; S. s. ridgwayi (which Howell and Webb identify as a full species, S. ridgwayi stuarti, Ridgway’s Rough-winged Swallow) is a permanent resident.

There is a car ferry to Cozumel from Puerto Morelos but you can’t take a rental car. Another option would be to stay near the Cancún airport and take a bus to Playa del Carmen, but given my itinerary, this would have required a long drive from Cancún to Felipe Carrillo Puerto upon returning from Cozumel. Upon arriving in Cozumel, I (together with my 63 pounds of luggage) took a tricycle taxi to the Flamingo Hotel in San Miguel (the only town on the island). The driver refused to name a price, so I gave him M$50. I could tell by the look on his face (and the fact that he tried to give me change) that I had probably given him too much. M$25 would probably have been adequate. The Flamingo Hotel is a great place to stay if you don’t need a beach with your hotel. I had asked for a superior room, which was large, clean, very comfortable, and had a small refrigerator. This hotel is exactly what I was looking for at an excellent price ($102.14/night including all taxes – one pays for the first night on-line, and if paid by credit card, the balance is charged to the card 45 days prior to arrival). The staff was excellent. They recommended Isis Car Rental, which was only two blocks away, and they too were excellent (see comments above). The hotel is located at Calle 6 Norte #81. To get there from the ferry, one need simply walk three blocks north (left) on Av. Melgar (the malecón) and turn right on Calle 6. The hotel is a few doors up the street on the left. There are several HSBC ATMs in San Miguel, one of which is located a few blocks up Calle 6 from the hotel. After renting the car, I drove north along the coast to see if the directions were okay for the next morning. All of the directions in Howell were fine except that he omits the golf course, the entrance to which is about 100 meters before the end of the pavement. I drove down the entrance road to ask permission to bird along the fairways both that evening and the next morning. I was told that birders are not allowed on the grounds. If one wants to bird the golf course, one must make arrangements in advance for a guided tour. The tours start at 6:00 AM, last two hours, and cost US$50.00/person with a minimum of two people. Breakfast is included. The irony of all of this is that there is a huge sign at the beginning of the entrance road announcing that the course is sponsored by Audubon International. I guess golfers have a different meaning for “green.” They did let me bird around the pro shop, however, where I found a

Cozumel Emerald. Along the entrance road (which they told me I could bird the next day) and in the parking lot I saw, a Tropical Mockingbird, a Yellow (“Golden”) Warbler, and 10 Great-tailed Grackles. I also saw a Magnificent Frigatebird on the way back to the hotel. January 10, 2013 First thing in the morning, I left for the sewage treatment plant at the northern end of the island (see Howell for directions). I walked the entire length of the limestone road from the plant to the laguna. In the high wind, birding was slow in the forested areas, but as one approaches Laguna Ciega, the forest gives way to mangrove swamp, and the height of the trees gets progressively lower. Howell recommends this area for Ruddy Crake, and I heard a total of 9. Unfortunately, I left the battery for my iPod speaker in the hotel, but fortunately, a Ruddy Crake flew into the road and ran to the other side. Birds: 2 Magnificent Frigatebirds, 5 Great Egrets, 1 Cattle Egret, 8 White Ibises, 23 Roseate Spoonbills, 7 Turkey Vultures, 13 Black Vultures, 1 Merlin, 9 Ruddy Crakes (all but one heard only), 3 Killdeer, 10 Royal Terns, 4 Eurasian Collared-Doves (in town), 1 Smooth-billed Ani, 48 Vaux’s Swifts, 2 Cozumel Emeralds, 1 Tropical Kingbird, 4 Tropical Mockingbirds, 1 Common Yellowthroat, 4 American Redstarts, 6 Yellow Warblers, 1 (“Cozumel”) Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola caboti), Great-tailed Grackle (uncounted). A brief stop at the “Bello Caribe” site proved completely unproductive, so I decided to bird the entrance road to the golf course. I saw an Anhinga flying over the parking lot and 26 American Coots in a large pond visible from the road. At the point where the first (from the main road) golf cart trail crosses the entrance road, I found a male and female Green-breasted Mango, a Yucatán Woodpecker, a Tropical Mockingbird, an American Redstart, a Northern Parula, a Yellow Warbler, and a Palm Warbler. I then decided to head to the ruins at San Gervasio. Again, Howell’s directions are fine except that he mentions “the Pemex station.” There are at least three in San Miguel. He means the one at the corner of Av. Benito Juaréz and Av. 30 Sur. There is another farther out on Av. Benito Juaréz on the opposite (north) side of the road. At the ruins, there was some activity around the parking lot and along the road, so I decided to bird there first. While I was doing this, I ran into Señor Miguel Vivas, the

brother of Carlos Vivas who owns the property that borders the ruins. I asked him for permission to bird the property that afternoon and the next morning, and he gave it. In her report, Gail Mackiernan said that this was a good place for “Cozumel” Wren (this taxon is recognized as a separate species [Troglodytes beani] by most authorities but not by the AOU, which considers it a subspecies of House Wren [T. aedon]. In such cases, I have placed the English name in quotation marks). During the next two hours in the parking lot, along the road, and on the Vivas property, I saw a Zenaida Dove, 4 Common Ground-Doves, a Tropical Kingbird, a Cozumel Vireo, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis insularis – the Cozumel subspecies), a Blue-Gray Gnatcatcher (subspecies undetermined), 8 Tropical Mockingbirds, 2 American Redstarts, a Yellow Warbler (migrant), a Western Spindalis (Spindalis zena benedicti – the Cozumel subspecies), a Painted Bunting, 16 Yellow-faced Grassquits, a Great-tailed Grackle, and a Hooded Oriole. By 1:30 it was so windy and the birds were so quiet, I decided to head back to town to get something to eat. At 3:30, I headed to the abandoned development opposite El Presidente Hotel, also marked by a left turn into a horse ranch. Note that the trees have grown in this area but there are houses, and all of them have dogs that bark and follow you. I went in the hope of finding the Yucatán Nightjar at evening, but I don’t think that I have ever been anywhere so devoid of birds (at least at this hour). Note too that you should keep track of where the entrance road is. All of the roads look alike. When all was said and done, I had seen or heard 9 Common Pauraques (8 heard), a Tropical Mockingbird, a Bananaquit, and a Hooded Warbler. No (other) nightjars. The Pauraque show lasted only from about 5:20-5:45. January 11, 2013 The plan for this morning was to head immediately to the Vivas property and quit birding at about 9:30 in order to have time to put gas in the car, return the car, and check out of the hotel in time to catch the noon ferry back to Playa del Carmen. The road into the ruins is gated at the Cross-Island Highway, and Señor Vivas had told me that it opens at 7:00. Well, maybe they will let him in at 7:00, but not me. If I understood the guard correctly, he told me that he had let birders in early in the past and had gotten in trouble for it, so I would not be allowed in

until 8:00. He referred me to another spot about 2 km. closer to town where another water line crosses the road. As it turned out, this is the site that Howell mentions as 6.8km from the first Pemex station. The only change from Howell’s description is that the trees have been cleared (for no apparent reason) for 25-50 meters on either side of the road, making birding a little more difficult. Between 6:00 and 7:00, I had tried an additional side road to the north as well. Between the hotel an the time that the gate to the San Gervasio ruins open at 8:00, I saw or heard 28 Black Vultures, 1 Common Ground-Dove, 4 Amazona sp. (according to Howell, only Yucatán Parrot occurs on Cozumel, but others have reported White-fronteds. These 4 birds were flyovers seen just before sunrise, so I am calling them Amazona sp.), 1 Bright-rumped Attila, 2 Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, 3 Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, 2 Black Catbirds, 3 Tropical Mockingbirds, 2 American Redstarts, 16 Bananaquits (C. f. caboti), and an uncounted number of Great-tailed Grackles. In the parking lot for the ruins and on the Vivas property I saw 9 Common-Ground Doves, a Cozumel Emerald, 2 Yucatán Woodpeckers, a Yucatán Flycatcher (heard only), 4 Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, a Gray Catbird, 3 Black Catbirds, a Tropical Mockingbird (with several more along the entrance road), a Northern Parula, 3 Yellow Warblers, a Bananaquit, 17 Yellow-faced Grassquits (almost certainly the same flock as the previous day), 2 Painted Buntings, and a Baltimore Oriole. I also saw a Ruddy Turnstone while walking from the hotel to the ferry landing. Upon returning to the mainland and after the episode in the parking lot, I headed to Felipe Carrillo Puerto. The directions are simple: turn right out of the parking lot on Av. Benito Juaréz and continue to MX 307, turn left (south) and drive for 135 km to Felipe Carrillo Puerto. The two most acceptable hotels, Esquivel and El Faisan y El Venado are past the statue at the traffic circle. Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and Trip Advisor all recommend Esquivel; Fodor’s and Howell both recommend El Faisan y El Venado. I chose Esquivel. El Faisan y El Venado is on the east (left) side of the street one block past the traffic circle on the corner of MX 307 (Av. Juaréz) and Calle 69 and just before the Pemex (kiddy-corner across Calle 69). Calle 69 is not shown on the map in Howell. The entrance to Esquivel is on Calle 63 between Calle 68 and MX 307, but because of the one-way streets, one cannot simply drive onto Calle 63. There is a light at the corner of Calle 63

and MX 307. Go through that light and go one block to Calle 61. Turn right on Calle 61 and go two blocks to Calle 66 and turn right. Return to Calle 63, turn right and go to the entrance of the parking lot on the left. When returning to MX 307, one need only turn left out of the parking lot, go to the light where one can turn either right or left. I stayed in a room with A/C for M$670/night (~US$55). The room and bathroom were very clean and the A/C worked well although I slept in the child’s (single) bed because the double was too soft. The water has something oily in it (watch what it does to soap), but you shouldn’t be drinking the tap water anywhere in the Yucatán. I also looked at a room in El Faisan y El Venado. The room had a fan but no A/C or windows. The Lonely Planet guide says that Esquivel also has such rooms. Some reports point out that El Faisan y El Venado is closer to the Vigia Chico Road, but the difference is only a few hundred meters. Neither hotel has a website and El Faisan y El Venado has no e-mail address, but Esquivel did not answer my e-mails anyway. Nevertheless, I had no trouble getting a room at 4:00 PM. I walked to El Faisan y El Venado for all of my meals. They have well-prepared Mexican comfort food and a choice of an air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned dining room. There is a small market on MX 307 between the two hotels. Esquivel does not accept credit cards or US$, so you will need to have pesos. The HSBC is not on the corner of MX 307 and Calle 69 as indicated in the Lonely Planet guide but farther west on Calle 69. However there is an HSBC ATM (together with other ATMs) in the bus station on the corner of Calles 65 and 66. The town itself was noisy at night (I was there on Friday and Saturday), and I met no one anywhere that spoke any English. After checking in and getting pesos at the bus station, I drove to the Vigia Chico Road (Howell site 14.3) at about sunset in order to check the directions. The only changes from the directions in Howell are that Av. Lázaro Cárdenas is paved beyond the Vigia Chico Road (called Diag. 63 on some maps. Look for the road angling off at 45o to the left), and the Vigia Chico Road itself is also paved to a point just past the school. The unpaved portion is quite rough and must be driven with care (even the locals do so). It gets a bit better once it enters the woods. January 12, 2013

This day was spent birding the Vigia Chico Road as far as the rough jeep road that cuts to the right at 6.3 km. Note that there are 3 ponds along the way. The first is that mentioned by Howell at the end of the track on the left at 5.0km. However this pond has a house with three dogs that were not fond of visitors. I did not visit this pond again. The next is a bit farther on, also on the left, and labeled “Laguna No. 2.” This pond is not mentioned in Howell. The third is at the right turn at 6.3km. This pond is shown on Howell’s map but is not mentioned in his text. A small pool is visible on the right just past this junction, but to reach the main pond, walk down the jeep road about 100m, turn left at an obvious fork, and the pond is about 25m down this left turn. Howell also suggests birding the numerous milpas along the road. However most of these are gated and signed “private property” or “This property belongs to …” Many have dogs. I did not enter any of them. By 9:00-9:30, the woods became almost completely silent and the wind picked up. Birds between 6:30 AM and 2:00 PM: 5 Plain Chachalacas (heard only), 2 Turkey Vultures, a Roadside Hawk, a Ruddy Crake (heard only), 2 White-winged Doves, 4 Common Ground-Doves, a White-tipped Dove, 5 Caribbean Doves, a Squirrel Cuckoo, a Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, a Buff-bellied Hummingbird, a Gartered Trogon, a Turquoise-browed Motmot, a Golden-fronted Woodpecker, 28 Olive-throated (“Aztec”) Parakeets, 4 Tropical Pewees, 2 Bright-rumped Attilas (heard only), 3 Yucatán Flycatchers, 3 Dusky-capped Flycatchers, a Social Flycatcher, a Tropical Kingbird, 4 White-eyed Vireos, 6 Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, 11 Brown Jays, 4 Yucatán Jays, a Tropical Gnatcatcher, 2 Clay-colored Thrushes, a Common Yellowthroat, 2 American Redstarts, a Northern Parula, 7 Magnolia Warblers, a Yellow Warbler, 6 Black-headed Saltators, a Green-backed Sparrow, 2 Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, a female Blue-black Grosbeak (according to Howell, this bird should not be found this far to the northeast in Quintana Roo; however, based on the over-all size and color of the bird plus the size, shape, and color of the bill, I am reasonably certain of this identification), 2 Melodious Blackbirds, 8 Great-tailed Grackles, and a Bronzed Cowbird.

Later that afternoon in town I saw a Eurasian Collared-Dove and 2 Social Flycatchers. There are numerous Great-tailed Grackles in town, but I did not count them. I returned to the Vigia Chico Road at 5:00 and climbed atop a small dirt mound on the left past the school but before the woods. There I had a 360o view of the sky and added 3 Thicket Tinamous (heard only), 2 White-tipped Doves, a Lineated Woodpecker, 6 White-fronted Parrots, 2 Amazona, sp. (probably Yucatán Parrots, identified later by flight pattern, but not seen well enough for a positive identification), 6 Yucatán Jays, a Giant Cowbird (see note for Blue-black Grosbeak – I am not as certain about the identification of this bird. Identification was based on impression of size and the shape of the nape of the neck), and an Oriole, sp. (probably Hooded). January 13, 2013 The strategy for today would be to drive to the side road at 6.3km on the Vigia Chico, bird my way back toward town, get cash, and head to Calakmul. Birds that morning: a Thicket Tinamou (heard only), 3 Turkey Vultures, 2 Ruddy Crakes (heard only), 2 American Coots, 4 Common Ground-Doves, 4 Ruddy Ground-Doves, a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (heard in response to my imitation), a Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, a Buff-bellied Hummingbird, a Cinnamon Hummingbird, a Ringed Kingfisher (another bird that Howell’s maps indicate ought not to be this far to the northeast on the Yucatán Peninsula, but this was an adult male – a difficult bird to misidentify – seen at the pond at the road at 6.3 km), a Pale-billed Woodpecker, 2 Olive-throated Parakeets, 3 Northern Bentbills (heard only), 2 Bright-rumped Attilas (heard only), 4 Yucatán Flycatchers, a Dusky-capped Flycatcher, a Social Flycatcher, a Tropical Kingbird, 2 White-eyed Vireos, a Tawny-crowned Greenlet, 2 Lesser Greenlets, 3 Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, a Clay-colored Thrush, 2 Tropical Mockingbirds, a Black-and-White Warbler, an American Redstart, 4 Magnolia Warblers, a Prairie Warbler, a Black-throated Green Warbler, a Black-headed Saltator, a Green-backed Sparrow, 4 Indigo Buntings, and 2 Melodious Blackbirds. On the road to Calakmul, I saw numerous Turkey Vultures, which I did not count, and approximately 20 Yucatán Jays.

At Calakmul, I stayed at Puerta Calakmul Ecological Retreat, at US$170 by far the most expensive place I stayed. Other people have recommended places nearer to Xpujil, but that adds 100km of driving each day to the 125km of driving to the ruins and back. Puerta Calakmul is comprised of individual lodges set in the woods with a reasonably good restaurant on the premises (also not cheap). One pays a one-night deposit through PayPal on registration and the rest in cash at check out. Puerta Calakmul does not accept credit cards, but they do accept payment either in US$ or M$. They have a laundry on the premises and are willing to prepare a bag breakfast/lunch for early departure. They met me with the bagged food each day at 5:15-5:30 AM without fail. To get to Puerta Calakmul, go south from Felipe Carrillo Puerto on MX 307 for 132km, turn west on MX 186 and drive 151km to the well-marked turn-off to Calakmul on the left at about km marker 97. Just as you reach the gate on the road to the ruins (~100m), turn left on an unpaved road to the hotel (~750m). There are Pemex stations at either end of Xpujil. This is the last gas, so fill up here. The whole drive took about 4½ hours. There are no banks or ATMs near the hotel, so be sure to arrive with enough cash to pay for the hotel, food, and gas. I met only one person on the staff who spoke any English. I was able to get in a couple of hours of birding before sunset, but I was not allowed to drive through the gate to Calakmul (they do not allow cars through after a certain hour), so I birded around the hotel and along the approach road. Birds: 2 Thicket Tinamous (heard only), 4 Red-billed Pigeons, 2 White-winged Doves, 6 Olive-throated Parakeets, an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, a Great-crested Flycatcher, 2 Boat-billed Flycatchers, 3 Couch’s Kingbirds, 2 Rose-throated Becards, a White-eyed Vireo, a Wood Thrush, 3 Brown Jays, 12 Yucatán Jays, 2 Black-and-White Warblers, an American Redstart, 2 Magnolia Warblers, a Summer Tanager, and 3 Yellow-throated Euphonias. I also heard a Mottled Owl calling at about 8:30 PM. January 14, 2013 Logistics of getting to the Calakmul ruins The toll gate (M$40) at the beginning to the approach road does not open until 7:00 AM. I had been told that Michael Carmody of Legacy Tours had been at Calakmul the day before

I arrived and had left for the ruins early in the morning. I asked how he had been able to do this and was told that the gate was not locked; I should simply push it open, close it, and pay when I left. When I left at 5:45 AM, I found that not only was the gate not locked, it was not closed. I just drove through. There are two side trails off the road before the second gate. I walked down the second (at ~17km marker), which looked promising, but I should have bypassed it. I heard a Blue-crowned Motmot and an Olivaceous Woodcreeper. That was all. There were jays (mostly Yucatán) calling all along the main road. The second gate, which is at km marker 18 (no toll, but the guards will take your license plate number), is a major affair. There is now a building across the road, a huge parking lot, residence buildings to the right, and a campground behind the residence. The route now bypasses this entire complex and is blocked by a weighted gate that opens at 7:00 AM. On the first day, I birded around the parking lot and the campground, but there wasn’t much. Look up at the radio tower though. A Bat Falcon flew in and perched while I was there. On the second day, I asked if I might go through the gate earlier (~6:30 AM), and the guard let me through. I do not know whether or not one could simply raise the gate and close it again if one were to arrive even earlier. Road conditions past the second gate are variable. Most of the road surface is quite good although the road is narrow and very winding. However there are sections of poor surface and occasional potholes. Don’t get cocky while driving; these bad spots leap up without warning. The guards had told me about a birdy spot at km 27. I stopped there, and they were correct, although in retrospect, it probably would have been better to go on to the ruins. Nevertheless, I heard or saw a Red-billed Pigeon, a Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, a Collared Araçari, a Northern Bentbill, 7 Great Crested Flycatchers, 3 Social Flycatchers, a Black-crowned Tityra, a Rose-throated Becard, 6 White-eyed Vireos, an American Redstart, 3 Magnolia Warblers, and a Blue Bunting. Other birds seen en route were an Ocellated Turkey (running across the road – poor look), a White-winged Dove and a Brown Jay (both at the 2nd gate), and ~40 Yucatán Jays.

The gate at the entrance to the ruins opens at 8:00 AM. There one pays a M$46 entrance fee. You can also buy a small, relative poor map/guide (Spanish only), but I do not remember how much it cost. I also do not know if one can walk through this gate before 8:00 and pay later. It is a total of 60 km from Puerta Calakmul to the ruins. The drive takes about 1½ hours. No one along the route spoke any English. I got lucky at two points at Calakmul. The first was getting out of the car at the parking lot. I looked up to see how quickly the clouds were blowing off in the wind and saw a King Vulture overhead. The second was finding an ant swarm just above the pond ahead and to the right of the main entrance. Birds at the ruins: 11 Ocellated Turkeys (+4 poults), 2 Least Grebes, a Great Egret, the above-mentioned King Vulture, a Roadside Hawk, a Squirrel Cuckoo, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a male-female pair of Lineated Woodpeckers, a Northern Barred-Woodcreeper, a Yellow-bellied Elaenia, a Yellow-Olive Flycatcher, a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, a Least Flycatcher, 7 Great Crested Flycatchers, a Boat-billed Flycatcher, 4 Social Flycatchers, 3 White-eyed Vireos, a Lesser Greenlet, 3 Brown Jays, 3 Northern Waterthrushes, 3 Black-and-White Warblers, an American Redstart, 4 Magnolia Warblers, a Summer Tanager, a Red-throated Ant-Tanager, 3 Gray-throated Chats, 2 Blue Buntings, and a Melodious Blackbird. On the drive back to the hotel, I saw 2 Plain Chachalacas and a Gray-necked Wood-Rail along the road. A Bright-rumped Attila was singing at the hotel. Instead of birding the entrance road this evening, I drove to a nearby bat cave. To reach the cave, drive back toward Xpujil to a point between the 106 and 107 km markers. You will pass a black-and-yellow bat warning sign and a red, white, and black yield-to-bats sign. Look to your left (north) for a small parking area. Pull in and walk toward the woods. You will see a well-marked trail leading into the woods. In a very few minutes, the trail goes steeply uphill for a very short stretch. This is the entrance to the cave. Starting about ½ hour before sunset, an estimated 13,000,000 bats of seven different species come pouring out of the cave. The show lasts about 20 minutes after which I returned to the hotel.

January 15, 2013 Today I would return to the ruins at Calakmul, bird until about 10:00 AM, return to the hotel to check out, and head back to Felipe Carrillo Puerto. The pattern for returning to Calakmul was nearly the same as the previous morning save that I drove directly to the second gate, stopping only to listen for owls. I heard a Mottled Owl and 2 Blue-crowned Motmots and saw 5 Plain Chachalacas. At km 27, I saw a Red-billed Pigeon, a Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, a Stub-tailed Spadebill, a Great Crested Flycatcher, a White-eyed Vireo, an American Redstart, and a Magnolia Warbler. Birds at the ruins: 9 Ocellated Turkeys, 3 Least Grebes, a Great Egret, a Little Blue Heron, a Green Heron, a Turkey Vulture, 2 Roadside Hawks, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, 16 Olive-throated Parakeets, a Northern Bentbill (heard only), a Great Crested Flycatcher, 2 Social Flycatchers, a Couch’s Kingbird, 2 White-eyed Vireos, a Brown Jay, an Ovenbird, 2 Northern Waterthrushes, a Blue-winged Warbler, a Black-and-White Warbler, a Magnolia Warbler, and a Blue Bunting. Back at the hotel just before noon, I saw 3 Brown Jays and a White-eyed Vireo. I drive back to Felipe Carillo Puerto and checked back in at the Esquivel Hotel where the room in which I had previously stayed was still available. I saw 2 Belted kingfishers on MX 186 en route. In Felipe Carrillo Puerto at about 4:30, I saw a Tropical Mockingbird, 6 Social Flycatchers, and 7 Great-tailed Grackles. At about 5:00, I drove to the Vigia Chico Road and climbed the little mound in the section before the woods. There I heard a Thicket Tinamou, a White-tipped Dove, and Olive-throated Parakeets. In a garden before reaching the mound I saw a Canivet’s Emerald, and from the mound saw 2 Amazona, sp., 4 Yucatán Jays, and 2 Altamira Orioles. January 16, 2013 The plan for today was to bird the Vigia Chico Road until about 11:00, return to town, check out, and drive to Río Lagartos. Birds on Vigia Chico Road: 2 Thicket Tinamous (heard only), 2 Turkey Vultures, a Crane Hawk, a Roadside Hawk, a Ruddy Crake (heard at Laguna #2), 2 Red-billed Pigeons, 3 White-tipped Doves, 1 Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (heard only), 2 Canivet’s Emeralds, 3 Wedge-tailed Sabrewings, a White-bellied Emerald, a Buff-bellied

Hummingbird, 2 Yucatán Woodpeckers, a Lineated Woodpecker, 35 Olive-throated Parakeets, 2 Amazona, sp. (almost certainly Yucatán Parrots but not seen well enough to be certain), 2 Olivaceous Woodcreepers, 1 Stub-tailed Spadebill, 2 Tropical Pewees, 3 Yucatán Flycatchers, 2 Dusky-capped Flycatchers, 3 Social Flycatchers, 2 Masked Tityras, 2 Rose-throated Becards, a White-eyed Vireo, 4 Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, 2 Brown Jays, a Green Jay, 9 Yucatán Jays, 2 Spot-breasted Wrens, a Black Catbird, a Tropical Mockingbird, an American Redstart, a Northern Parula, 5 Magnolia Warblers, 5 Black-headed Saltators, a Rose-throated Tanager, a Blue Bunting, Great-tailed Grackles (uncounted), a Giant Cowbird, and an Altamira Oriole. One of the most productive spots was the entrance to the first milpa on the right immediately after entering the woods. To get from Felipe Carrillo Puerto to Río Lagartos (Howell site 14.4), turn west at the traffic circle on MX 307, go to the next traffic circle and turn right (north) on MX 295 and stay on it for 256 km. This road is a narrower two-lane road than the other national routes on which I had been driving, and it has no shoulders, but there is very little traffic (no tourists). There was some construction south of Valladolíd, which slowed things a bit, but it was for only a few kms. Follow the signs to get through Valladolíd and especially through Tizimín. See the directions in Howell for Tizimín (he gives no directions for how to get out of Tizimín going south – more on that on January 18th). The next town is Kikil – more on this later. Continue on to Río Lagartos. There are several Pemex stations along the way, but the one in Río Lagartos sells only regular sin plombo (unleaded). En route, I saw a flock of about 25 European Starlings in the village of Chichimilá, just south of Valladolíd. According to Howell and Webb, this species is not supposed to be in the Yucatán at all, and they doubt all reports of starlings from the area. At Río Lagartos, someone had put out the word to watch for the gringo coming into town. As I entered the town, I was met by someone on a motorbike who signaled me to follow him. Since I was heading in the same direction anyway, I did so. He led me straight ahead to the plaza, around to the left, down to the coast, and into the parking lot of the Hotel Villa de Pescadores. Upon seeing my binoculars, the man on the motorbike asked me if I would like to hire a

bird guide. I told him that I was not interested and checked into the hotel. The proprietor, Sr. Felipe González Rodríguez, who speaks English, then assured me that one local guide in particular, Jesus Santiago Contreras Marfil (“Santiago”), was very good. I thought that it might be worthwhile, and I do like to hire local guides because 1.) they usually know where the birds are and 2.) it shows that birding supports the local economy. Sr. González made a phone call and within 10 minutes, Santiago was at the hotel. We agreed to meet a 6:00 the next morning at a cost of M$400 for the morning. The hotel itself is quite pleasant (it gets a very high rating on Trip Advisor) with a/c in the immaculate rooms (although I never used it) and, on the upper two floors (3 rooms each), each room has a balcony overlooking the ria. There is an observation deck on the roof with a small cupola if one wishes to get a bit higher. One trip report said that the spiral staircase was “rickety.” I have no idea what that might mean because it is quite solidly made of poured concrete. The cost was M$700.01/night including taxes paid through a PayPal account. There is also a restaurant on the premises. I believe that they can take credit cards. I do not know if they accept US$. There is no ATM in town, so you should play it safe and bring a lot of pesos. North of Kikil en route to town I saw ~20 Black Vultures, ~10 Turkey Vultures, and 4 Crested Caracaras. Birds from the observation deck of Hotel Villa de Pescadores from 5:15-5:45: 20 American Flamingos, 23 Magnificent Frigatebirds, 50 Neotropic Cormorants, 15 Brown Pelicans, 6 White Ibises, ~130 Laughing Gulls, and 1 Royal Tern. January 17, 2013 I woke up this morning to howling winds (15-35 mph N to NW) and pouring rain. Nevertheless, I got ready to go birding in case Santiago did in fact show up. He did. I saw no way we could go birding that morning, but he said that northers tend not to last too long. We arranged to go out at 8:00. At 8:00 we headed for the cemetery a mile or so south of town (inland) where the winds and rain were a bit less in the hope of finding Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. No luck. We also drove toward Las Coloradas, which was quite non-productive.

From 8:00-10:00 (including birds seen while eating breakfast back at the hotel): ~50 American Flamingos, ~40 Magnificent Frigatebirds, 4 Neotropic Cormorants, 2 Double-crested Cormorants, an American White Pelican, ~20 Brown Pelicans, ~40 Great Egrets, 3 Black Vultures, 2 Turkey Vultures, ~100 Laughing Gulls, 3 Royal Terns, and ~30 Black Skimmers. I then returned to the hotel and bought breakfast for Santiago and me. Sr. González told me that the effects of the norther were worse in Progresso and Celestún to the west, and all the more so in Celestún because they have no barrier island to shelter the town. After determining that there was still room in the hotel (there had been only one other couple the previous night), I decided to stay a second night in Río Lagartos. Santiago told me that he could be available the next morning. By noon, the rain had diminished to intermittent showers and the wind had died, so I went out to walk along the malecón and through the streets to look for Mexican Sheartail and whatever else I could find. From 12:30-1:30 I saw a Neotropic Cormorant, 11 Double-crested Cormorants, an American White Pelican, 56 Brown Pelicans, 24 Ruddy Turnstones, ~200 Laughing Gulls, 30 Royal Terns, 25 Sandwich Terns, 10 Black Skimmers, 4 Common Ground-Doves, 2 Tropical Kingbirds, a Tropical Mockingbird, and 16 Great-tailed Grackles. Some of these birds were undoubtedly the same birds that I had seen earlier in the day. I also saw two hummingbirds zooming by but have no idea what species they might have been. I also ran into Santiago, who asked if I wanted to go out later in the afternoon (I had still not had lunch). I told him that I could not afford to pay him for two full days, but he said not to worry about it. He just wanted to go birding and, if I understood his Spanish correctly, he had nothing else to do that afternoon but die. So at 3:30, off we went. We drove 46 km south to the village of Kikil to look for tanagers. That far inland, the wind was nearly calm and, judging from the road conditions, it appeared that they had had no rain at all. In the plaza, one side of which is along MX 295, there was a flowering ceiba tree that was full of birds. To the west, there are two side streets. We walked down the northernmost of the two (the one alongside the small bodega) to a local cenote. We continued a bit farther alongside tree-lined fields, turned left (south) on a short connecting street, walked to the

local cemetery, and then returned on the more southerly street. We then crossed MX 295 to the ruins of an old church and birded around the church and neighboring buildings. The birding was excellent! Birds in Kikil from 3:30-5:00: a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron (en route), 18 White Ibises (also en route), 40 Black Vultures, 2 Turkey Vultures, 2 Roadside Hawks, 5 White-winged Doves, a Groove-billed Ani, 4 Mexican Sheartails, a Cinnamon Hummingbird, 2 Turquoise-browed Motmots, a Yucatán Woodpecker, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a Bat Falcon, 4 Social Flycatchers, a Tropical Kingbird, a Masked Tityra, a White-eyed Vireo, a Green Jay, a Ridgeway’s Rough-winged Swallow (inside the roofless ruins of the old church - considerably darker over-all than the Rough-winged Swallows I had seen in Playa del Carmen), a Clay-colored Thrush, 3 Tropical Kingbirds, a Black-and-White Warbler, a Northern Parula, a Magnolia Warbler, a Black-throated Green Warbler, a Prothonotary Warbler, a Hooded Warbler (seen by Santiago only), a Blue-Gray Tanager, a Savannah Sparrow (seen by Santiago only), a Summer Tanager, a Red-throated Ant-Tanager, 6 Blue Grosbeaks, 6 Indigo Buntings, 2 Melodious Blackbirds, 4 Great-tailed Grackles, 2 Orchard Orioles, a Hooded Oriole, 2 Orange Orioles, 2 Altamira Orioles, and a Scrub Euphonia (seen by Santiago only). January 18, 2013 This morning, Santiago and I drove out the road to Las Coloradas as far as the junction with the dirt road out to Rancho San Salvador (see the map in Howell Site 14.4). The directions in Howell are fine, but the route is much better signed than it apparently was when he was writing. We parked on the dirt road just beyond the junction and walked down the dirt road. In about 1 km we came to a fork and went to the left. We continued another km or so before turning around. Birds seen: 32 Black-throated (Yucatán) Bobwhites (in several coveys), a Wood Stork, a Great Egret, 10 Black Vultures, 4 Turkey Vultures, 2 Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures, a Roadside Hawk, a Zone-tailed Hawk, a Lesser Yellowlegs, 3 Groove-billed Anis, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a Lineated Woodpecker, 4 Crested Caracaras, 2 Laughing Falcons (heard only), 10 Olive-throated Parakeets, 2 White-fronted Parrots (perched), 6 Yucatán Parrots (perched), a Vermillion Flycatcher, 2 Yucatán Flycatchers, 3 Social Flycatchers, 2 Couch’s Kingbirds, 2 White-eyed

Vireos, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, 5 Yucatán Wrens, 12 Tropical Mockingbirds, a Magnolia Warbler, a White-collared Seedeater, a Northern Cardinal (seen by Santiago only), 62 Indigo Buntings, 3 Hooded Orioles, a Yellow-backed Oriole, 3 Orange Orioles, and an Altamira Oriole (all of the oriole species, although not all individuals, were found in a single flowering tree). We went back to Río Lagartos for breakfast, and even though Santiago said that he was not going to charge me for the previous day, I paid him M$600. I then checked out of the hotel and decided to head southeast to Cobá in the hope of finding night birds, wrens, and Yellow-winged Tanager and decided to stop again at Kikil along the way. Birds en route to Kikil: White-tailed Hawk. Birds in Kikil: 12 Black Vultures, a Gray Hawk, 3 White-winged Doves, a Mexican Sheartail, a Ruby-throated Hummingbird, a Cinnamon Hummingbird, a Turquoise-browed Motmot, a Yucatán Woodpecker, 2 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, a Tropical/Couch’s Kingbird, a Rose-throated Becard, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, a Tropical Mockingbird, a Prothonotary Warbler, 4 Northern Parulas, 2 Magnolia Warblers, a Yellow-throated Warbler, 2 Black-throated Green Warblers, 2 Blue-Gray Tanagers, a Black-headed Saltator, 6 Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, a Blue Grosbeak, 20 Indigo Buntings, a Painted Bunting, 2 Melodious Blackbirds, a Great-tailed Grackle, 6 Orchard Orioles, 8 Hooded Orioles, 3 Yellow-tailed Orioles, 7 Orange Orioles, and 3 Altamira Orioles. I then continued south through Tizimín. How to get out of Tizimín when travelling southbound Howell suggests using “common sense” (Site 14:4) to get back, but I will try to be more specific. As you come into town from the north, follow the signs to “El Centro.” This will give you a tour of some of the residential sections of Tizimín, but it will also get you back to the zócalo (plaza). Your instincts may now tell you to go half way around the plaza and leave town the same way you came in on MX 295. The problem is that as one approaches the town from the south, MX 295 becomes one-way northbound, and from plaza on, the way out southbound is not marked. Instead, when you reach the zócalo, continue south (straight ahead), keeping in mind that MX 295 is to the east (left). Wend your way eastward as the opportunity presents itself.

Eventually you will come back to a point where MX 295 is again two-way. The entry point to MX 180 libre eastbound is equally unclear. It is a left immediately south of the entrance to MX 180 cuota. If you see a Pemex station on the left after passing south of the cuota, turn around; you have gone too far. Note: south of the correct turn, there is a turn that looks correct but is in fact a dead end. If you make this turn (I did), turn around, go back to MX 295 northbound, and take the next right (east). This is actually a bypass around the city of Valladolíd. When you get to the end of the bypass, turn left to go eastward. I continued east on the MX 180 libre to the village of Chemax where I turned right (? – I originally wrote “left”; map says right) on an unnumbered but well-surfaced and well-marked road to Cobá. Here there are some differences between Howell’s map (Site 14.2) and the present state of affairs. The triangular intersection pictured in Howell at the turn-off into Cobá is now a traffic circle with a new road heading to the northeast to intersect the MX 180 libre in the village of Nuevo Xkan. This is the route that the tourist buses take between Cancún and Cobá. There is a Pemex station at this traffic circle. The Hotel Villas Arqueologicas (where I had planned to stay that night) closed in the summer of 2012. The end of the road around the lake, which Howell says is a good outlook for Spotted Rail, has been extended. There is now a second road to the left beyond that in Howell, and just beyond that is a new boutique hotel called Coqui Coqui (http://www.coquicoquiperfumes.com). It looks quite pleasant, and an Argentine couple who were staying there told me that it was very nice, but it is even more expensive than Villas Arqueologicas had been (cheapest room is $180/night in low season, $230 in high season). I also checked the Sac-be, which is recommended in Lonely Planet and Rough Guides, but neither of the two rooms that they showed me had toilet seats and the air conditioned room reeked of bleach. After birding for somewhat less than an hour, I left Cobá to look for a room in Tulúm, 45 km away. Birds at Cobá between 3:30 and 4:00±: 6 Pied-billed Grebes, a Great Blue Heron, a Great Egret, and 6 Bronzed Cowbirds. There are two hotel zones in Tulúm. One is in town and the other is the zona hotelera along the beach. To reach the latter, continue straight through the traffic light at MX

307. I stayed at La Vita è Bella, an Italian hotel reached by turning a 135o left at a hotel as one approaches the beach (I do not remember the name). The cost was $190/night for a cabin (the only available space), but they had a cancelation, and when I told them that I would not be taking breakfast, I got the now available room for $115. Lesson: the closer one gets to the “Maya Riviera,” the higher the cost of accommodation. Another warning: There are three small villages between Tulúm and the traffic circle outside Cobá. Each has four topes: a tope at either end of town and two in the middle. Some of the signs for these topes are hidden. If you plan to drive after dark, drive the route in daylight first and remember where these topes are. January 19, 2013 I returned to Cobá this morning. The ruins and the parking lot open at 8:00 AM but it is possible to park in the lot beforehand and pay the M$40 fee on the way out. However, I arrived at 6:45 and birded around the lake until 8:00. Birds seen around the lake (Laguna Cobá) and outside the ruins: 7 Pied-billed Grebes, 6 Double-crested Cormorants, an Anhinga, 2 Great Blue Herons, 2 Great Egrets, a Little Blue Heron, 2 Ruddy Crakes (heard only), an American Coot, 2 Rock Pigeons, 2 White-winged Doves, 3 Common Ground-Doves, 2 Ruddy Ground-Doves, a Caribbean Dove, a Squirrel Cuckoo, a Belted Kingfisher, a Bright-rumped Attila (heard only), 2 Tropical Kingbirds, a Masked Tityra, a Common Yellowthroat, 2 Yellow Warblers, a flock of ~20 White-collared Seedeaters, a Summer Tanager, a Red-throated Ant-Tanager, 2 Indigo Buntings, 5 Great-tailed Grackles, and an Orchard Oriole. At 8:00 I drove into the parking lot, paid the M$40.00 parking fee, paid the M$57.00 entry fee, and proceeded into the ruins. Be aware that by about 8:30, the tourist busses begin to arrive from the hotels on the coast, and Cobá slowly and steadily becomes a human zoo. Note too that ~100m inside the gate, there is a place that rents bicycles and bicycle taxis. A few hundred meters farther, there is a small, unmarked trail to the right. In less than 100 meters, this trail is crossed by another unmarked trail, and a few meters farther is another lake (Laguna Macanxoc). This lake is shown in Howell; the trails are not. This trail is worth exploring. If nothing else, it is cooler and quieter (no tourists) than the main trail. If you take

the crossing trail to the left, you will eventually come out at the more southerly of the two major ruins (Grupo Macanxoc). Birds inside the ruins between 8:00 and 11:20: 2 White-tipped Doves, a Squirrel Cuckoo, 58 Vaux’s Swifts, a Blue-crowned Motmot, 3 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, a Lineated Woodpecker, 3 Olivaceous Woodcreepers, a Stub-tailed Spadebill, 4 Social Flycatchers, a Masked Tityra, 3 White-eyed Vireos, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, 12 Green Jays, a Gray Catbird, 3 Ovenbirds, 3 Black-and-White Warblers, a Common Yellowthroat, an American Redstart, 3 Magnolia Warblers, 2 Black-throated Green Warblers, 2 Bananaquits, a Green-backed Sparrow, a Summer Tanager, and a Hooded Oriole. By late morning, crowds, heat, and very slow birding drove me back to Tulúm for a nap. I returned at 4:00 in the hope of finding caprimulgids in the evening. Between 4:00 and dark on the way to Cobá and around the lake I saw 3 Pied-billed Grebes, 2 Black Vultures, a Turkey Vulture, a Ruddy Crake (heard only), 5 Social Flycatchers, a Tropical Mockingbird, a Summer Tanager, ~500 Great-tailed Grackles (they roost in the reeds around the lake), 2 Hooded Orioles, and 2 Altamira Orioles. I walked the road between the traffic circle and the village of Cobá for about an hour, but there were no caprimulgids calling. January 20, 2013 I repeated my routine of the previous morning and planned to leave the site at 10:00 in order to buy gas and return the car in time to catch my plane back to JFK. Birds outside the ruins and around the lake: 6 Pied-billed Grebes, a Great Blue Heron, a Great Egret, a White-winged Dove, 2 Ruddy Ground-Doves, a Cinnamon Hummingbird, 6 Social Flycatchers, 3 Tropical Kingbirds, a Masked Tityra, 4 Brown Jays (en route from Tulúm) a “Southern” House Wren, 2 Tropical Mockingbirds, a Yellow Warbler, a Yellow-throated Warbler, 2 White-collared Seedeaters, a Summer Tanager, 4 Indigo Buntings, ~500 Great-tailed Grackles leaving their roost, 19 Orchard Orioles (in a single loose flock), and 3 Hooded Orioles. Birds inside the ruins: a Pied-billed Grebe (in Laguna Macanxoc), a White-winged Dove, a White-tipped Dove, a hummingbird with white underparts that was too high in the

canopy for me to identify. My impression was White-bellied Emerald, but I cannot eliminate female Ruby-throated Hummingbird; a Black-headed Trogon, a Collared Araçari, 2 Yucatán Woodpeckers, 3 Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, 4 Northern Bentbills (heard only), 2 Stub-tailed Spadebills, 2 Masked Tityras, a Rose-throated Becard (female), 2 White-eyed Vireos, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, 3 Brown Jays, a Green Jay, 5 Yucatán Jays, 2 Spot-breasted Wrens, a Black-and-White Warbler, a Hooded Warbler, a Black-throated Green Warbler, 2 Black-headed Saltators, a Rose-throated Tanager, 3 Black-cowled Orioles, 3 Orchard Orioles, 3 Hooded Orioles, 3 Orange Orioles (including what may have been a male-female pair), 2 Altamira Orioles, and a Baltimore Oriole. Although I drove back to Valladolíd in order to take the cuota to the airport, it might have been just as fast to have taken the unnumbered road from the traffic circle outside Cobá to the MX 180 libre, the 180 libre to the Cancún terminus of the cuota, and then doubled back to the airport road. The closest Pemex to the airport is about 4 km north on MX 307. Return of the car at Avis took nearly an hour. It was necessary to wait in the same line as people waiting to pick up cars. Once I actually got to the desk, the process went quite smoothly. Species List Abbreviations: JBABM - Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo Barrera Marín in Puerto Morelos (Howell Site 14.1)

FCP – Felipe Carrillo Puerto VCR – Vigia Chico Road (Howell Site 14.3) AR – Approach Road (San Gervasio on Cozumel, Puerta Calakmul and Calakmul Ruins)

HPC – Hotel Puerta Calakmul SSRR – San Salvador Ranch Road in Río Lagartos (Howell Site 14.4)

Endemics: Mexican endemic – EM Yucatán endemic (includes Belize and northern Guatemala)

– EY Cozumel endemic - EC Thicket Tinamou Crypturellus cinnamomeus

Jan. 12th: 3 heard early in the evening on the VCR between the school and the woods.

Jan. 13th: heard in the same location in the morning, 2 heard in the evening at Calakmul.

Jan. 15th: heard on the VCR in the evening between the school and the woods.

Jan. 16th: heard in the same location in the morning.

Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula Jan. 13th: 5 heard in the morning on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 2 seen on the bypass around the second gate on the Calakmul Road.

Jan. 15th: 5 on the Calakmul road.

Black-throated (“Yucatán”) Bobwhite Colinus nigrogularis EY Jan. 18th: 32 in several coveys on the SSRR outside Río Lagartos.

Ocellated Turkey Meleagris ocellata EY Jan. 14th: 1 on the road into Calakmul, 11 and 4 poults at the Calakmul ruins on the 14th.

Jan. 15th: 9 in the same location. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Jan. 14th: 2 in the lake in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 3 in the same location. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps Jan. 19th:7 in the Laguna Cobá in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 6 in the same location and 1 in Laguna Macanxoc in the ruins at Cobá.

American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Jan. 16th: 20 at Río Lagartos. Jan. 17th: 50 in the same location.

Wood Stork Mycteria americana Jan. 18th: 1 flying over the San Salvador Road. Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Jan. 9th: 4 flying near Puerto Morelos, 12 at the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen, and 1 in Cozumel.

Jan. 10th: 2 over Laguna Ciega on Cozumel. Jan. 16th: 23 over the Ría Lagartos. Jan. 17th: 40 over Ría Lagartos.

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Jan. 16th: 50 over the Ría Lagartos.

Jan. 17th: 13 in the same location. Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus Jan. 17th: 5 in the Río Lagartos area. Jan. 19th: 6 over the lake at Cobá.

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Jan. 10th: 1 over the golf course on Cozumel. Jan. 19th: 1 over the Laguna Cobá.

American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos Jan. 17th: 2 in the Ría Lagartos. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Jan. 9th: 1 in Puerto Morelos. Jan. 17th: 70 over the Ría Lagartos. Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum Jan. 17th: 1 en route from Río Lagartos to Kikil. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Jan. 18th: 1 on Laguna Cobá outside the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 19th: 2 in the same location in the morning. Jan. 20th: 1 in the same location in the morning.

Great Egret Ardea alba Jan. 10th: 5 at the sewage treatment plant and Laguna Ciega.

Jan. 14th and 15th: 1 in the lake in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 17th: 40 opposite the cemetery in Río Lagartos. Jan. 18th: 1 along the San Salvador Road and 1 in Laguna Cobá.

Jan. 19th: 2 in Laguna Cobá outside the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in Laguna Cobá.

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Jan. 15th: 1 in the lake in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 19th: 1 in Laguna Cobá outside the ruins at Cobá.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Jan. 10th: 1 outside the sewage treatment plant on Cozumel.

Green Heron Butorides virescens Jan. 15th: 1 in the lake in the ruins at Calakmul. This bird was identified as a Spotted Rail by a local guide hired privately by an American family. They were not

birders and apparently did not care about the bird at all, so I said nothing.

White Ibis Eudocimus albus Jan. 10th: 8 flying over Laguna Ciega on Cozumel. Jan. 16th: 6 over the Ría Lagartos. Jan. 17th: 18 while en route from Río Lagartos.

Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Jan. 10th: 23 flying over Laguna Ciega on Cozumel. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Very common and all counts are probably low. Jan. 9th: 1 from the observation tower at the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 13 while birding along the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 28 in sites along the cross-island highway on Cozumel.

Jan. 16th: ~20 along MX 295 from Kikil to Río Lagartos. Jan. 17th: 3 from the cemetery in Río Lagartos and 40± in Kikil and en route from Río Lagartos.

On the 18th: 10 on the SSRR and 12 between Río Lagartos and Kikil.

Jan. 19th: 2 in Cobá. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Seen nearly every day but in smaller numbers than Black Vulture. Jan. 8th: 2 along MX 307 while driving from the Cancún airport to Puerto Morelos.

Jan. 9th: 2 on the Ruta de Cenotes south of Puerto Morelos.

Jan. 10th: 7 on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 3 there and several that I did not count en route from FCP and Calakmul.

Jan. 15th: 1 at Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR and ~10 along MX 295 between Kikil and Río Lagartos.

Jan. 17th: 2 opposite the cemetery in Río Lagartos and 2 in Kikil.

Jan. 18th: 4 on the SSRR. Jan. 19th: 1 at Cobá on the 19th.

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR.

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa Jan. 14th: 1 over the parking lot at Calakmul. Crane Hawk Geranospize caerulescens Jan. 16th: 1 low over the canopy on the VCR. Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 2 at Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR.

Gray Hawk Buteo plagiatus Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Jan. 18th: 1 on MX 295 while en route from Río Lagartos to Kikil.

Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR. Ruddy Crake Laterallus ruber Jan. 10th: 9 (1 seen; 8 others heard) on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 1 heard in the reeds around the first pond on the VCR.

Jan. 13th: 2 heard in the reeds around the second pond on the VCR.

Jan. 16th: 1 heard in the same reeds arounf the second pond on the VCR.

Jan. 19th: 2 heard in the reeds around Laguna Cobá. Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajaneus Jan. 14th: 1 seen in the afternoon walking (the rail, not me) along the Calakmul AR between the first and second gates.

American Coot Fulica americana Jan. 10th: 26 at the first pond on the left on the gold course on Cozumel.

Jan. 13th: 2 on the second pond along the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 in Laguna Cobá.

Killdeer Charadrius vociferus Jan. 10th: 3 in the marsh near Laguna Ciega on Cozumel.

Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Jan. 9th: 8 on the boarding dock in Playa del Carmen. Jan. 11th: 1 on the beach in San Miguel on Cozumel. Jan. 17th: 24 along the malecón in Río Lagartos.

Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Jan. 9th: ~50 along the beach at the boarding dock in Playa del Carmen.

Jan. 16th: ~130 along the malecón in Río Lagartos and on the Ría Lagartos.

Jan. 17th: ~300 along the malecón in Río Lagartos and on the Ría Lagartos.

Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Jan. 10th: 10 on a pier at Laguna Ciega on Cozumel. Jan. 16th: 2 flying over Ría Lagartos. Jan. 17th: 33 on the docks along the malecón in Río Lagartos.

Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis Jan. 17th: 25 on the docks along the malecón in Río Lagartos.

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Jan. 17th: 40 flying ove Ría Lagartos or on the docks along the malecón in Río Lagartos.

Rock Pigeon Columba livia Did not pay too much attention. Jan. 9th: √ for Puerto Morelos. Jan 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá.

Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris Jan. 13th: 4 on the AR to HPC in the evening. Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the road to the Calakmul ruins. Jan. 15th: 1 at km 27 on the road to the Calakmul ruins. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR.

Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto Jan. 10th: 4 in San Miguel on Cozumel. Jan. 12th: 1 in FCP.

White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica Jan. 9th: 4 in Puerto Morelos.

Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 on the AR to HPC in the evening. Jan. 17th: 5 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 3 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the village and another in the ruins at Cobá.

Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita Jan. 10th: 1 on the AR to San Gervasio on Cozumel. Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina Jan. 10th: 4 on the Vivas property near San Gervasio on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 9 in the above location and 1 in San Miguel. Jan. 12th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 4 in Río Lagartos. Jan. 19th: 3 in the village of Cobá.

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Jan. 13th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 2 near the far end of the road around the lake in Cobá (near the Coqui Coqui hotel).

Jan. 20th: 2 in the village of Cobá. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi All heard only: Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR in the morning and 2 that evening on the VCR between the school and the woods.

Jan. 14th: 1 on the road into Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 on the VCR between the school and the woods in the evening.

Jan. 16th: 3 in the above location. Jan. 19th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Caribbean Dove Leptotila jamaicensis All heard only: Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 12th: 5 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 in the village of Cobá.

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 19th: 1 at the far end of the road around the lake and another in the ruins at Cobá.

Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 3 along the SSRR.

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Jan. 10th: 1 at the sewage treatment plant on Cozumel. Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata Jan. 13th: 1 heard at HPC in the evening. Jan. 14th: 1 heard on the road to the Calakmul ruins in the morning.

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Jan. 13th: 1 heard in response to my imitation along the VCR in the morning.

Jan. 16th: 1 heard elsewhere on the VCR, also in response to my imitation.

Common Pauraque Nyctidromus albicolis Jan. 10th: 8 heard and 1 seen in the abandoned development opposite El Presidente Hotel on Cozumel.

Vaux’s Swift Chaetura vauxi Jan. 10th: 48 over the marsh at the far end of the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega on Cozumel.

Jan. 19th: 58 over the ruins at Cobá. Green-breasted Mango Anthracothorax prevostii Jan. 10th: 2, a male and a female (pair?), on the entrance road to the golf course on Cozumel.

Mexican Sheartail Doricha eliza EM Jan. 17th: 5 in the ceiba tree in the plaza in Kikil and possibly 2 more in the town of Río Lagartos.

Jan. 18th: 1 in the same ceiba tree in Kikil. Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris Jan. 18th: 1 female in the ceiba tree in the plaza in Kikil.

Cozumel Emerald Chlorostilbon forficatus EC Jan. 9th: 1 outside the pro shop at the golf course on Cozumel.

Jan. 10th: 2 along the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega.

Jan. 11th: 1 on the Vivas rancho.

Canivet’s Emerald Chlorostilbon canivetii Jan. 15th: 1 in a garden along the VCR between the school and the woods in the evening.

Jan. 16th: 1 in the same location (probably the same bird) and 1 farther along the road.

Wedge-tailed Sabrewing Campylopterus curvipennis Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the road to Calakmul ruins. Jan. 15th: 1 in the above location. Jan. 16th: 3 on the VCR.

White-bellied Emerald Amazilia candida Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Buff-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia yucatanensis Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR.

Cinnamon Hummingbird Amazilia rutila Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in the ceiba tree in the plaza in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 in the same tree. Jan. 20th: 1 in the village of Cobá.

Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanurus Jan. 9th: 1 in the JBABM. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Gartered Trogon Trogon caligatus Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Jan. 14th: 1 heard on the road to Calakmul ruins. Jan. 15th: 2 heard on the road to Calakmul ruins. Jan. 19th: 1 seen in the ruins at Cobá.

Turquoise-browed Motmot Eumomota superciliosa Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 (probably one of the same birds) in Kikil.

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata

Jan. 13th: 1 at the 3rd pond (at km 6.3) on the VCR. This is north of where Howell and Webb say they should be on the Yucatán Peninsula.

Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon Jan. 15th: 2 en route from Calakmul to FCP. Jan. 19th: 1 on the zip-line wire over Laguna Cobá.

Collared Araçari Pteroglossus torquatus Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the road to the Calakmul ruins. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yucatán Woodpecker Melanerpes pygmaeus EY Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 1 near the entrance to the San Gervasio ruins on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 2 on the Vivas rancho. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 20th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá.

Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 2 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 2 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR and 2 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Jan. 12th: 1 from the sand mound on the VCR in the evening.

Jan. 14th: 2 (a male-female pair) in the ruins at Calakmul.

Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Jan. 16th: 4 on MX 295 between Kikil and Río Lagartos. Jan. 18th: 4 along the SSRR.

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Jan. 18th: 2 heard along the SSRR. Merlin Falco columbarius Jan. 10th: 1 at the sewage plant on Cozumel. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Jan. 14th: 1 on the transmission tower at the second gate on the AR to Calakmul.

Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana Jan. 11th: An uncounted number heard apparently in their roost at the edge of the woods on the VCR in the evening.

Jan. 12th: 28 along the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR and 6 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 15th: 16 in the ruins at Calakmul and again an uncounted number heard apparently in their roost at the edge of the woods on the VCR in the evening.

Jan. 16th: 35 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 10 along the SSRR.

White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons Jan. 12th: 6 from the sand mound on the VCR in the evening.

Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR. Yellow-lored (Yucatán) Parrot Amazona xantholora EY Jan. 18th: 6 on the SSRR. Amazona, sp. (either A. albifrons or A. xantholora) Jan. 11th: 4 flying over San Miguel on Cozumel. Jan. 12th: 2 from the sand mound on the VCR. Jan. 15th: 2 from the same sand mound on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 2 from the same location.

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Jan. 14th: 1 heard on the side trail at km 17 on the AR to Calakmul.

Jan. 16th: 2 seen on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 3 seen in the ruins at Cobá.

Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina Jan. 10th: 1 in the JBABM in Puerto Morelos. Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Ivory-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus flavigaster Jan. 13th: 1 at the HPC. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare All heard only: Jan. 13: 3 along the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 20th: 4 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Stub-tailed Spadebill Platyrinchus cancrominus Jan. 15th: 1 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 on the little side trail to Laguna Macanxoc at Cobá.

Jan. 20th: 2 in the same location as on the 19th. Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Jan. 12th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR.

Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Empidonax flaviventris Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul: Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil.

Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Jan. 18th: 1 along the SSRR. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus All heard only: Jan. 11th: 1 in San Miguel on Cozumel. Jan. 12th: 2 along the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 along the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 at the HPC (singing at 4:30 PM!). Jan. 19th: 1 at the far end of Laguna Cobá.

Yucatán Flycatcher Myiarchus yucatanensis EY

Jan. 11th: 1 heard on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 12th: 3 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 3 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR.

Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Jan. 12th: 3 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 15th: 1 on the VCR in the evening. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR.

Great Crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus Jan. 13th: 1 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 14th: 7 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul and 7 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Jan. 15th: 1 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul and 1 in the ruins at Calakmul.

If these numbers appear high, especially in the absence of Brown-crested Flycatchers (M. tyrannulus), I should also mention that these were singing birds!

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Jan. 9th: 1 at JBABM in Puerto Morelos. Jan. 13th: 2 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 14th: 1 at the ruins at Calakmul.

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR and 2 in FCP. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 3 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul and 4 in the ruins.

Jan. 15th: 2 in the ruins at Calakmul and 6 in FCP (all at the Hotel Esquivel.

Jan. 16th: 3 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 4 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 3 on the SSRR. Jan. 19th: 4 in the ruins and 5 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 6 in the village of Cobá.

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Jan. 9th: 1 at the JBABM in Puerto Morelos. Jan. 10th: 1 at the sewage treatment plant and 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 1 on the VRC. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 2 in Río Lagartos and 1 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá.

Jan. 20th: 3 in the village of Cobá. Couch’s Kingbird Tyrannus couchii Jan. 13th: 3 on the AR to the Hotel Punta Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR.

Tropical/Couch’s Kingbird Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 at the far end of the road around the lake and another in the ruins at Cobá.

Jan. 20th: 1 in the village and 2 more in the ruins at Cobá.

Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul. Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus alaiae Jan. 13th: 2 on the AR to the HPC. Jan. 14th: 1 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus Jan. 12th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR and 1 on the AR to the HPC. Jan. 14th: 6 at km 27 on the AR to Calakmul and 3 in the ruins.

Jan. 15th: 2 on the AR to Calakmul and 1 in the ruins. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 2 on the SSRR. Jan. 19th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá.

Mangrove Vireo Vireo pallens Jan. 9th: 1 probable singing on the Ruta de Cenotes south of Puerto Morelos.

Cozumel Vireo Vireo bairdi EC Jan. 10th: 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus flavipes

Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Jan. 9th: 1 in the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 11th: 2 in sites along the cross-island highway on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 6 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 3 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR and 1 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio Jan. 12th: 11 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR and 3 on the AR to the HPC. Jan. 14th: 1 on the AR and 3 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul and 3 at the HPC. Jan. 16th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 20th: 4 en route from Tulúm to Cobá and 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas Jan. 9th: 3 in the JBABM. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 12 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yucatán Jay Cyanocorax yucatanicus EY Jan. 9th: 4 in the JBABM. Jan. 12th: 4 on the VCR in the morning and 6 there that same evening.

Jan. 13th: approximately 20 seen crossing the road at various points while I was en route from FCP to Calakmul and another 12 along the AR to HPC that evening.

Jan. 14th: approximately 40 (more a wild guess than an approximation) on the AR to Calakmul.

Jan. 15th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 9 on the VCR. Jan. 20th: 5 in the ruins at Cobá.

Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis

Jan. 9th: 5 at the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen. “Ridgway’s” Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx

serripennis ridgwayi EY Jan. 17th: 1 in the ruins of the old church (it has no roof) in Kikil.

“Southern” House Wren Troglodytes aedon musculus Jan. 20th: 1 in the village of Cobá. Yucatán Wren Campylorhynchus yucatanicus EY Jan. 18th: 5 on the SSRR. Spot-breasted Wren Pheugopedius maculipectus Jan. 16th: 2 seen on the VCR. Jan. 20th: 2 heard in the ruins at Cobá.

Blue-gray Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea Jan. 10th: 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 11th: 3 in sites along the cross-island highway and 4 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina Jan. 13th: 1 at HPC. Clay-colored Thrush Turdus grayi Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil.

Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis Jan. 9th: 1 on the Ruta de Cenotes south of Puerto Morelos.

Jan. 11th: 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Black Catbird Melanoptila glabrirostris EY Jan. 11th: 2 in sites along the cross-island highway and 3 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Jan. 8th: 2 between the Cancún Airport and Puerto Morelos.

Jan. 9th: 1 in Puerto Morelos, 1 along the Ruta de Cenotes south of Puerto Morelos, 2 in the JBABM, and 1 in the parking lot of the golf course on Cozumel.

Jan. 10th: 4 between the sewage treatment plant and Laguna Ciega, 1 on the entry road to the golf course, 8 on the Vivas rancho, and 1 on in the abandoned development opposite El Presidente Hotel on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 3 in sites along the cross-island highway and 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 15th: 1 at Hotel Esquivel in FCP. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Río Lagartos and 3 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 12 on the SSRR and 2 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 2 in the village of Cobá. Note that this species is abundant and obvious around human habitation and wherever there is open habitat. They are relatively uncommon in the woods.

European Starling Sturnus vulgaris According to Howell and Webb, this species is not supposed to be found on the Yucatán Peninsula at all, but I saw a flock ~25 on MX 295 in Chichimilá, Yucatán, just south of Valladolíd on Jan. 16th.

Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla Jan. 9th: 1 at JBABM. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 19th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis Jan. 9th: 1 at JBABM. Jan. 14th: 3 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 2 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Blue-winged Warbler Vermivora cyanoptera Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Black-and-White Warbler Mniotilta varia Jan. 9th: 1 at JBABM. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR and 2 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 14th: 3 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá..

Prothonotary Warbler Protonotaria citrea Jan. 17th: 1 in the ceiba tree on Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 in the same location (possibly the same bird).

Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas Jan. 10th: 1 on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega.

Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 in the village and 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina Jan. 9th: 1 in the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 1 in the abandoned development opposite El Presidente Hotel.

Jan. 20th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 4 on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega, 1 on the entry road to the golf course and 2 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 2 in sites along the cross-island highway on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR and 1 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 14th: 1 on the AR and 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 on the AR and 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Northern Parula Setophaga Americana Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 10th: 1 on the entry road to the golf course on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 4 in Kikil.

Magnolia Warbler Setophaga magnolia Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 12th: 7 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 4 on the VCR and 2 on the AR to the HPC. Jan. 14th: 2 at km 27 on the AR and 4 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Jan. 15th: 1 at km 27 on the AR and 1 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Jan. 16th: 5 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR and 2 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yellow Warbler Setophaga petechia Jan. 9th: 1 in the JBABM and the parking lot of the golf course on Cozumel. The one in the parking lot was definitely S. p. rufivertex, but the one in the JBABM also had a chestnut crown (not head). S. p. rufivertex is supposed to be restricted to Isla Cozumel.

Jan. 10th: 6 (ssp. not noted) on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega, 1 on the entry road to the golf course (ssp. not noted), and 2 (both S. p. aestiva) on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 3 (ssp. not noted) on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the village of Cobá.

Palm Warbler Setophaga palmarum Jan. 10th: 1 on the entry road to the golf course on Cozumel.

Yellow-throated Warbler Setophaga dominica Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 20th: 1 in the village of Cobá.

Prairie Warbler Setophaga discolor Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 there in the ruins at Cobá.

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola caboti This subspecies is endemic to Cozumel and the eastern littoral of the Yucatán Peninsula.

Jan. 10th: 1 on the road from the sewage treatment plant to Laguna Ciega and 1 in the abandoned development opposite El Presidente Hotel on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 16 in sites along the cross-island highway and 1 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Jan. 19th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá. Western Spindalis Spindalis zena benedicti This subspecies is endemic to Cozumel. Jan. 10th: 1 female on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel.

Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Jan. 17th: 1 in the ceiba tree in the plaza in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 2 in the same tree.

Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps Jan. 12th: 6 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 5 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 20th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá.

White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR. Jan. 19th: 20 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 2 in the village of Cobá.

Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus intermedius This subspecies is endemic to Isla Cozumel and Holbox Island.

Jan. 10th: 16 on the AR just before the parking lot for the San Gervasio ruins on Cozumel.

Jan. 11th: 17 in the same location the following morning, almost certainly the same flock as on the 16th.

Green-backed Sparrow Arremonops chloronotus Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins at Cobá.

Rose-throated Tanager Piranga roseogularis EY Jan. 16th: 1 female on the VCR. Jan. 20th: 1 female in the ruins at Cobá.

Summer Tanager Piranga rubra Jan. 13th: 1 on the AR to HPC. Jan. 14th: 1 female in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 in the village and 1 in the ruins at Cobá. Jan. 20th: 1 in the village of Cobá.

Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Jan. 9th: 1 in the JBABM. Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 17th: 1 female in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 around Laguna Cobá.

Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus Jan. 18th: 6 in Kikil. Gray-throated Chat Granatellus sallaei This species is endemic to the Yucatán Peninsula and the southern Atlantic slope states of Mexico.

Jan. 14th: 3 in the ruins at Calakmul. Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. This is about 150 km north of where this species ought to be found. See the daily log for details.

Blue Bunting Cyanocompsa parellina Jan. 14th: 2 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 15th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR.

Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea Jan. 17th: 6 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil.

Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea Jan. 13th: 4 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 6 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 62 on the SSRR and 20 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 4 in the village of Cobá.

Painted Bunting Passerina ciris Jan. 10th: 1 male on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 11th: 2 on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 18th: 1 in Kikil.

Melodious Blackbird Dives dives Jan. 9th: 1 at the JBABM. Jan. 12th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 13th: 2 on the VCR. Jan. 14th: 1 in the ruins at Calakmul.

Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 2 in Kikil.

Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus I saw these every day in towns and along highways. The only day that I did not record any was the 14th, a day spent entirely between HPC and the ruins at Calakmul. Most of the time, I made no attempt to count them, but I did try to estimate the number roosting in the reeds around Laguna Cobá, where I estimated that I saw ~500 birds. However this reflects the number that I could count from the boardwalk in the village of Cobá itself. Given that the entire lake is bordered by reed beds, the real number must certainly have been much higher.

Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 18th: 6 in the village of Cobá.

Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Jan. 12th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. This is ~100-150 km north of where this species ought to be found. See the daily log for further discussion of identification. The habitat was correct for the species, but I saw no evidence of Oropendola nests.

Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas Jan. 20th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá. Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 6 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 19 in the village and 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus Jan. 10th: 1 in the parking lot for the San Gervasio ruins on Cozumel.

Jan. 17th: 1 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 3 on the SSRR and 8 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 1 in the ruins and 2 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 3 in the village and 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR. Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas

Jan. 18th: 3 in Kikil. Orange Oriole Icterus auratus EY Jan. 9th: 2 in the JBABM. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 3 on the SSRR and 7 in Kikil. Jan. 20th: 3 in the ruins at Cobá.

Altamira Oriole Icterus gularis Jan. 15th: 2 on the VCR in the evening. Jan. 16th: 1 on the VCR. Jan. 17th: 2 in Kikil. Jan. 18th: 1 on the SSRR and 3 in Kikil. Jan. 19th: 2 in the village of Cobá. Jan. 20th: 2 in the ruins at Cobá.

Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula Jan. 11th: 1 female on the Vivas rancho on Cozumel. Jan. 20th: 1 adult male in the ruins at Cobá.

Yellow-throated Euphonia Euphonia hirundinacea Jan. 13th: 3 on the AR to HPC. Significant Species Actively Sought and Missed Singing Quail Dactylortyx thoracicus Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus Lesser Roadrunner Geococcyx velox Vermiculated Screech-Owl Megascops guatemalae Yucatán Poorwill Nyctiphrynus yucatanicus EY Yucatán Nightjar Antrostomus badius EY Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa Gray-collared Becard Pachyramphus major “White-browed” [Carolina] Wren Thryothorus ludovicianus albinucha EY

“Cozumel” [House] Wren Troglodytes aedon beani EC White-bellied Wren Uropsila leucogastra Yellow-winged Tanager Thraupis abbas Michael R. Greenwald 661 Judson Street Road Canton, NY 13617 (315) 386-3938 mgre@stlawu.edu