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YORK ON A FORK THE BEST FOOD & DRINK IN YORK

ISSUE FOUR • SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2015 • YORKONAFORK.COM • FREE

IN THE CITYFOIE GRASTHE DEBATE RAGES ON

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THE MENU

12. Jazz in the City.

7. O2 Media Awards.

13. Harvest Festival.8. The Foie Gras Question.

20. My Thai.

4. Editorial: Celebrate Summer.

10. Beer: Dark Island Reserve.

22. Breakfast in Style. 24. Social: Krakatoa.

30 Recipes.

26. The Maltings.

38. The Kitchen.

29. Sunday Lunch at Sutlers. 32. But-Where-Do-You-Get-Your-Protein Bolognese.

36. Marketplace.35. Salmagundi.34. Bramble Cake.

7. Win Wine Tasting for Two.

28. The Blue Bell.

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Welcome to issue four of York on a Fork. As I sit tapping away on my sofa, I’m struggling to articulate just how exciting this one is. The ezine stays where it is, but there’s every chance you’re holding these words in your hands on an actual piece of paper. OK, we’re in the interweb age and so on, and I’m more excited than the next man at whatever gadgets I can get my hands on, but really there’s nothing like holding a piece of paper. An e-reader will never have that smell. As we stumble toward the end of a rather underwhelming Yorkshire summer, York heads further toward a bright foodie future. With Turtle Bay opening this month, Andy Annat collaborating with the guys from Pivni, Ebor Street Feast going from strength to strength and sundry other new ventures heading toward fruition, we’re facing an exciting and varied future. It’s a sign of how quickly the scene here is moving on that it’s less than a year since the first York on a Fork ezine appeared and we’re now putting this into print! I started wittering on about food to the internet less than 18 months ago without much thought for where it would go and a suspicion that I’d struggle for content. Sitting here now I’ve a long to do list and back up from the most wonderful group of talented, kind hearted contributors — all of whom are central to this and without whom it wouldn’t be happening. While we’re considering what’s coming up, I hope as you read this you’re planning what you’re intending on doing for York Food Festival that kicks off in just a couple of short weeks alongside the York Beer & Cider Festival. After the success of our recent social event at Krakatoa we have a seriously exciting and iconic York venue lined up for our next event when we confirm the date before too long. Now that you’re holding this in your hands (well, or on the information superhighway, either way) we have to consider where next. There’s no danger of our enthusiasm waning, but we can’t jeopardise our personal finances too much. I can’t thank enough all of the advertisers who’ve helped us get to this stage, and now that we have a network of hotels in whose rooms you may well be reading this, we have what I believe to be a really compelling vehicle for ads. We’re passionate about this and very realistic about what represents good value for an advertiser, so please get in touch if you’d like to be involved. See you next time and thank you all for reading.

Ben Thorpe Editor

EDITORIAL: CELEBRATE SUMMER

Cover illustration by Loren Harrison.

Opposite: Juicy Kitchen at The New Ebor Independence Street Feast, Parliament Sq., York on 3rd July. Photograph by Grace Neal.York on a Fork magazine is published by Coffee Yard Media Ltd.

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credentials and the values behind its actions.

7York on a Fork’s Grace (on the left, in case there’s any confusion) at the 2013 O2 Media Awards night.

YORK ON A FORK CONTENDERS FOR TROPHY AT O2 MEDIA AWARDS.

York Food Festival returns for its 19th year in 2015 with large markets, street food, bars and live music. We’ve teamed up with the Festival to give you the chance to win two tickets to a fantastic wine tasting event!

The Prize: Italian Wine Tasting Friday 25th September 2015, 7pm at York Guildhall.

Join Karen Hardwick, of The Wine Academy, for an evening of Italian Wine & sharing platters of Italian spuntini! Usually £30pp.

To enter, simply answer this question:

For how many days will the York Food Festival run in 2015?Email your answer with your name and postal address to competitions@coffeeyard.media by midnight Wednesday 16th September 2015. For more info on the festival, visit http://bit.ly/1A8obgP

The small print: Entrants must be over 18. One winner from correct entries will be selected at random. By entering this competition you agree to opt in to any future email correspondence with York on a Fork magazine, of which you can opt out of at any time by replying with STOP. We will not sell your details to any third parties. Best of luck!

COMPETITION: Win tickets for Italian Wine Tasting at York Food Festival.

I’ve been trying to think of a clever way of saying this for some minutes but I’m stumped and can’t quite see through my pride, so I’ll just blurt it out. York on a Fork has been shortlisted for the O2 Media Awards in the Online Media category! I can’t remember the last time I was up for any kind of prize, especially a proper one with a ceremony and everything! The awards ceremony is in September at York Racecourse, so I’ll keep you posted on the night regardless of what happens but, for the moment, what I really need to say is a

colossal ‘thank you’. Everyone who’s been involved in York on a Fork is a true pleasure to work with and genuinely talented. There’s no way this would be happening without you all — I’m not going to try and list names as I’ll undoubtedly forget someone, but please be assured that I’m enormously grateful for everyone’s contribution and very proud of the result. Thank you.

By Ben Thorpe.

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In 2015, Michelin-starred London restaurant Gauthier was forced to drop foie gras from the menu after protesters surrounded the restaurant. It seems that anti-foie gras sentiment runs strongly this side of the channel, despite our love and vast consumption of cheap and often low welfare meat.

I like to imagine that the local historians of future York will one day come across this magazine and think it suitable archive material, apt to be placed in a dusty store room with other miscellany of 21st century life. I am of course assuming here that archival funding will not have been cut into oblivion by the current government, but I’ve already strayed too far from the point to go into that any further… So, back to goose liver. Once preserved for posterity in said local archive, eventually a future undergrad York historian (desperate to find a dissertation subject using local source material) will come across our humble food ramblings and decide to perform some sort of cultural analysis while wondering what food meant to the residents of York. What role did it play in their society? What were the rituals and societal expectations associated with the consumption of food? What was considered acceptable for consumption and what was not? My caveat to the above is that it is often hard to make generalisations, but foie gras is a culinary example of something which is generally seen as bad in our society. It is, after all, illegal to produce it here in the UK, a strong indication of some consensus on the subject. Organisations such as the RSPCA and PETA have also publicly stated that the production of foie gras constitutes the cruel and inhumane treatment of animals.

For those unfamiliar with the product in question, it is a luxury food product made from the specially fattened livers of ducks or geese that have been force fed corn through feeding tubes in a process known as gavage. This force feeding ensures that the birds eat more than they would do if left to their own devices and is undoubtedly detrimental to the welfare of the birds, causing stress, throat damage and ill health due to swollen livers. The main consumers and producers of foie gras are undoubtedly the French. In 2014, France was producing approximately 72% of the world’s supply. Despite the other 22 EU countries introducing a ban, French law explicitly states that “Foie gras belongs to the protected cultural and gastronomical heritage of France” (French rural code L654-27-1) During a trip to Paris a few years ago, it became evident to me that the dish could be found in most mid to high-end restaurants, all of which seemed to be proud to serve it. I must confess that I did actually try a sample of foie gras entier, though admittedly I was unaware at the time of its unsavoury origins. I have to report that it was absolutely heavenly. If pâté is the equivalent of meat jam, foie gras has to be the most luxurious meat compote – unctuous and satisfying beyond belief. I can see why demand remains high, despite the obvious controversy surrounding this national dish.

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THE

FOIE GRASQUESTION

Our disgust at the French delicacy may be legitimate, but is it hypocritical?Words by Bethan Vincent. Photo by Grace Neal.

Now as someone who is fervently passionate about ethical issues in general and especially those in the food industry, you are right to be surprised at that admission of controversial consumption above. It is true that I would not choose to eat it now, however I don’t believe it warrants the attachment of such frothing shame that seems sometimes called for when discussing the delicacy. What I really would argue is that the meat and dairy industries, in their worst forms, are equally inhumane. If we are disgusted at the thought of gavage and force feeding, should we not also be equally disgusted at the cramped conditions of intensively reared animals, or the wasteful destruction of male chicks in the egg industry? Since the early 20th century, industrial farming and global capitalism have worked together to provide cheaper meat in much reduced timescales. This mass production has mostly has come at the expense of the living conditions and lifespan of the animals we consume, many of which have been denied space, light and the chance to reach maturity at a natural pace. Whilst the majority of animals are not force fed through a tube, they are undeniably condemned to a miserable existence which is mostly parallel to that experienced by those ducks and geese destined to produce foie gras.

You can understand a lot about a society when you unpick what it finds acceptable and what it finds abhorrent. I would argue that the most interesting part comes when you start to notice the dichotomy between what is considered socially acceptable and what is not. compare fast food and cheap meat to middle class prejudice against foie gras. On the whole, we are a nation of carnivores, who on average each consume 79.3 kg/year of meat. The majority of this meat will have been industrially produced in low welfare conditions with little regard to the animal’s quality of life. Despite this, we continue to be appalled at the our Gallic neighbours’ fervent love for their national dish, which is also the product of animal suffering. The historians of the future may well note our hypocrisy when it comes to currently controversial meat products. If we are to condemn foie gras, we surely must also be compelled to condemn aspects of the wider meat industry at home and abroad.

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dark island reserve

a.b.v. 10.0% By Jim Helsby @yorkbeerwine

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dark island reserve

a.b.v. 10.0% By Jim Helsby @yorkbeerwine

The concept of barrel ageing beers is scarcely new, but it is one that seems to have acquired a seriously chic image in this age of “craft” brewing. Not that many years ago, numerous brewers produced an Old Ale during the colder months. Old Peculier, Old Tom, Old Timer, Owd Rodger etc. were exactly what their name implied….strong beers aged for quite some time in cask, acquiring all sorts of flavour nuances in the process. Economic pressures (it’s an expensive procedure) and the closure of so many breweries during the 70s, 80s and 90s meant few of these beers survived. How

things have changed since the beginning of this century! More and more microbrewers on both sides of the Atlantic are now experimenting with barrel ageing. Strong, dark beers seem particularly suitable for the treatment. Apparently, US law prevents bourbon producers from using barrels more than once, so these expensive containers are often sold on to enterprising brewers. Similarly, I’m sure it is no coincidence that many of the earliest UK brewers to dip their toe into this market were based in Scotland where the whisky industry is such a major influence. The Orkney Brewery was established in 1988, in an old schoolhouse in Quoyloo on the west coast of the archipelago’s principal island, Mainland. It’s flagship beer, Dark Island, a robust, smooth, 4.6% dark ale has twice been voted CAMRA’s Champion Beer of Scotland. In 2012 a limited edition “reserve” version of the beer was produced, brewed to an intimidating 10% abv, and then aged three months in barrels whose previous occupant had been Highland Park Single Malt. Presented in bespoke 75cl swing-top bottles, these soon became collectors’ items, with the result that the brew has been repeated from time to time since, most

recently in a 33cl format (still swing-top) that makes it a bit more affordable. The results are pretty spectacular. The colour is a virtually impenetrable black with scarcely any detectable carbonation, but nevertheless a thin, tan head. It’s pretty viscous too, with dense glycerol “legs” trickling down the glass after a swirl. The alcohol level is immediately apparent on the nose, along with powerful aromas of roast malt, cocoa, sour cherry and raisin, with a note of vanilla from the barrel. The flavour is even more complex and intense. Black fruits and bitter chocolate are complemented by licorice, vanilla, figs, and dates. There are smoky notes too and hints of leather and spices, cinnamon and nutmeg. The texture is smooth, creamy and warmingly alcoholic throughout, with a little twist of bitter orange at the finish as an afterthought. Awe inspiring stuff, very much aimed at the speciality end of the market, and probably best sipped from a wine glass, if that doesn’t sound too effete! Expensive yes, but quality like this doesn’t come cheap. Some strong cheese would go nicely, or maybe it could even be drizzled over ice cream in the manner of PX sherry.

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York has no shortage of live music: folk at the Back Swan, the Habit and the Maltings; touring bands and projects at the Duchess, Fibbers and the City Screen Basement and a smattering of open mic nights mean that whatever night of the week you’re out it’s usually easy to track down a show or a set. Jazz nights however can be harder to find: the city has no dedicated jazz clubs or bars, but a handful of venues host some excellent and varied regular events. The Phoenix, a CAMRA award winning independent pub, is the unquestionable heart of jazz in York. With events two or three times a week it attracts visiting musicians as well as regularly hosting local line-ups Central Scrutinisers, the Firebird Quartet and the Kate Peters Quartet, who between them cover everything from post-bop to contemporary jazz to vocal standards. While the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming the standard of performance is very high: gigs here will appeal to dedicated jazz listeners as well as a broader audience, and the pub itself is excellent, offering a sunlit beer garden for the summer and an open fire for the rest of the year! The Phoenix sits just inside the city walls, opposite the Barbican, and comes highly recommended by the YoaF team. Those seeking a more contemporary atmosphere can head into the city centre to find several weekly jazz nights. Sunday features a Little Stonegate double bill with a house band playing from 1–4pm at Kennedy’s and Sotano, an underground charcuterie and tapas bar, hosting the Neil Corkery Quartet from 9 until late. Sutler’s Bar and Kitchen, on the corner of Stonebow and Fossgate, has recently introduced Gin and Jazz nights on Mondays with local duo Rachel Croft (voice) and Karl Mullen (piano), and Tuesday is jazz night at Nevermind, a late-night cocktail bar on Stonebow which must be the only establishment in York to be open until 4 every night (R.I.P. Willow…). Bethan and I recently mounted a YoaF excursion to check out the Sotano jazz night. I had never visited before – the entrance is tucked away between two other bars and easily missed – and was pleasantly surprised by the intimate atmosphere and sophisticated drinks menu. The bar is well known for its cocktails, and has a diverse selection of beer and cider on tap. While we didn’t sample the food I have it on good authority that the charcuterie is excellent. The band, with leader Corkery replaced by Brazilian guitarist Carlo Estolano, were perfectly suited to the space. Music continues until one in the morning, making this a very attractive alternative to York’s other late night options. On Mondays the University of York, where late jazz piano legend John Taylor taught up until last year, hosts a jam night at Vanbrugh College Bar featuring both an eclectic and ever-changing line-up of students from the nearby music department and extremely cheap drinks. There are also a lot of opportunities to hear fantastic jazz in the more formal programmes of the National Centre for Early Music and the University of York Concert Series, both of which have featured major international artists (Julian Arguelles, Andy Sheppard) and exciting new talent (Stoop Quintet, Roller Trio). York is blessed with a thriving live music culture. The jazz scene might be tucked away in corners or basements, but it’s worth discovering for yourself!

WEEKLY EVENTS CALENDAR:

MONDAY: Vanbrugh Jazz Nights (Autumn Term: 22nd September – 12th December) Sutler’s Gin and Jazz Night Kate Peters Quartet at the Phoenix (1st and 3rd Mondays of the month)WEDNESDAY: Jam Night at the PhoenixTHURSDAY: Nevermind Jazz NightSUNDAY: Phoenix Jazz Nights Neil Corkery Quartet at Sotano’s Kennedy’s House Band (1–4pm)

The Neil Corkery Quartet

The Firebird Quartet. Miles Davis kindly stood in for the dummer that evening.

Wh

at you sh

ould be eatin

g now

…You may think of Autumn as the season when nature starts to wind down. Here is a look at what’s going to taste most glorious in these abundant, if colder months. Photography by E. Amikishiyev, E. Bochkarev, H. Leitner, A. Pajdzik, Y. Shi and Y. Yamchuk.

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NOVEMBER POMEGRANATE & QUINCE

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NOVEMBER POMEGRANATE & QUINCE

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For all of its undoubted treasures, there’s one thing that York has always missed: a good Thai delivery service. The Old Siam and Khao San Rd do a great job of offering Thai cuisine and offer takeaway, but sadly don’t deliver, in the most literal respect. New contender My Thai is offering a streetfood-styled dining experience in the centre of York…but does it deliver? Sunday afternoon and I’m enjoying an ice cream in Trinacria before a bit of a stroll round town. A little bit of digging on Facebook suggests there’s a restaurant opening around the corner so, interest piqued, it was obviously time to wander to the nearest pub with a copy of Private Eye. There’s little point in kicking off action for dinner when you’re full of ice cream after all.We settled into the rhythm of the place while quickly agreeing that steamed pork dumplings would be the right way to start things off and got a Thai Chang beer rolling. Friendly service exceeded expectations while an open kitchen reassured. The steamed pork dumplings were superb, well seasoned and interesting without falling into the anglicized trap of coriander overload. A bed of salad cut through with spring onions backed the flavours up without  feeling the need to drench itself in one dimensional sauces. With the pace of the meal picking up to reflect the streetfood vibe, main courses appeared in short order. Duck with flat noodles and glass noodles served with seafood and pork appeared in significant portions and were beautifully presented.  Having only been open a couple of weeks, the atmosphere wasn’t yet buzzing but customers were in situ and happy, an experience we shared. Main courses though, onwards.

The flat noodles with duck were superb: face-filling, lip-smearing and spiking all the flavours one expects without the meat being dried out or meagre in quantity — likely to be a repeat order. The glass noodles with pork and seafood require a little more qualification: equally generous in quantity and well-executed, everything looked the part until my ability to cope with spice stepped in. Flavours were entirely on the money, but I just couldn’t cope and left Mrs YoaF to deal with the collateral damage, a task she worked through with characteristic fortitude. A starter, two mains, and a couple of beers tipped the scales at just over thirty quid. Entirely fair given the portioning. My Thai isn’t somewhere to linger for lots of courses and delicate side dishes, but for a friendly town centre spot to get an informal spot of dinner, it’s perfect. Going back to that super spicy dish, I feel the need to raise two points. As previously documented, I’m rubbish with spice. That’s not to say I didn’t appreciate the flavours. As an experiment, I dropped the leftovers in at my local pub for a  second opinion from a trusted friend. He and his girlfriend dealt with the spice just fine, make of that what you will. Perhaps a clearer guidance on spice would let punters customise their dishes with accuracy. The real question is though…does it deliver? In the most literal sense, I’ve no idea. I forgot to ask, and it’s not obvious from social media. In terms of flavour…yup. Go get stuck in. Is it my Thai? Looks like it.

My ThaiKing St., York.By Ben Thorpe.

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Breakfast at Walmgate Ale House Walmgate, York.By Cyrus Kay.

Having just returned from a trip across The Pond I am inadvertently full of irritating American habits. I now tip by default, I use ‘awesome’ in response to tedium and banality, and I have developed a deep love of shorts. But one practice that I am stridently in favour of is that quintessentially New York habit of going out for breakfast. So it is that I find myself seeking out York’s finest breakfast establishments, starting today with the Walmgate Ale House. Now people may think you have something of a problem if you tell them you are setting out to a pub for breakfast at 10 AM, but I urge you to put the party-poopers aside and head to this attractive, family-run bistro at the top of Walmgate where we received a warm and friendly welcome despite the relatively early hour. Drinks were the first order of business, and we opted for two large coffees to ward off last night’s gin-fug, and Bucks Fizz to replace it. The coffee, by York Coffee Emporium, was excellent: rich and bittersweet with just a hint of nuttiness, and a jug of frothed milk was a nice touch. The Fizz was good value, as the jug of freshly-squeezed OJ provided with the mini bottle of prosecco was sufficient to allow us a glass each before we mixed it with the bubbles. Feeling somewhat revived, we set about ordering food. I plumped for the bacon and egg on toast with an extra sausage on the side while my companion, who was also missing the USA, selected pancakes with streaky bacon. After a short wait the food arrived and I admit that I was, visually, a little underwhelmed. True, the egg (singular) was perfectly poached, resembling a ball of

good mozzarella and the bacon was thick and succulent, the toast crisp and the sausage juicy but the ensemble looked a little insipid, and a sprig of parsley or other splash of colour on top would have made a big difference to the eye. Nonetheless, the egg yielded the kind of silky, creamy yolk that is just heaven early in the morning and I’m happy to report that the bacon and sausage lived up to their appearance, with the sausage in particular worthy of special mention for its wonderful flavour and perfect consistency. Across the table the pancakes were thick and fluffy, just as a buttermilk batter should be. The bacon, much crispier than the thick slabs that adorned my own plate, was a brilliant match, offering a crispy counterpoint to the soft cakes and off-setting the shocking sweetness that came from my companion vigorously waterboarding her plate with maple syrup. The building itself, an old rope makers shop, is interesting if not overly comfortable – although the padded booths in the back do make a nice retreat for those facing down a hangover, and sitting in the window to watch the world go by is a nice way to spend a Saturday morning.Overall, there are a few criticisms to make, and while the presentation could be a little more exciting, we left having enjoyed good service and excellent ingredients prepared without a fuss. And as the wallet was only twenty pounds lighter, I’d call that a bargain! So, although there are many other breakfast establishments to try in York, I will definitely be back to WAH – and soon!

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Every time I dine at Krakatoa I seem to have something to announce. Last time I went I announced my wedding (since completed) and this time I ended up announcing our unexpected shortlisting for the O2 Media Awards — looking back that seems like a pretty good hit rate for good news. Another reason I should go there more regularly. The point of this visit wasn’t to show off though, it was to launch an informal social club for York on a Fork at which like-minded foodies could check out a new place to eat and make new friends. The idea for a social event was borne of a conversation with the lovely Caroline Biggs of Cambridge Food Festival fame who, new to York, thought it’d be a good idea to get a social movement going centred around a shared passion for good food. Krakatoa were happy to host and put together an interesting menu so all that remained was to find some people to come and appreciate it. Having amassed a decent sized attendance for the evening it was a little surprising to see everyone arrive quite so promptly, judging people by my own standards I guess. Seated and ready to go after the one straggler arrived, whose tardiness was probably appreciated as a chance to get another drink in, I swallowed my nerves and accepted I’d have to at least briefly introduce the evening before handing over to the eminently more qualified Tim Potter, proprietor of the establishment. Tim did a tremendous job of explaining the restaurant’s history and ethos before describing the menu they’d put together for the event, just enough detail to whet the appetite and appreciate the commitment of the owners without challenging the diners’ desire to push proceedings onward. Food time then. When I’d spoken to Tim and Deeche about the evening, I’d asked if it was possible to have something not on the day to day menu. It seemed a shame to miss the chance for feedback to the owners from engaged food lovers, not to mention the chance to give those engaged food lovers something they wouldn’t normally have. Starters and mains were served together on a platter, Otak-Otak Ikan to start translated to a beautifully judged spiced fishcake, deep fried and served with a tamarind dipping sauce, it gave a hearty kick without overfacing the flavours — heat drowning out flavour is always a huge disappointment. The main of Soto Betawi (rich beef and vegetable stew) was an equally universal hit. Tender meat, abundantly rich flavour (fragrant and not too spicy) and perfectly judged rice… this needs to be a permanent feature on the Krakatoa menu in the very near future.

Dessert could really only be judged a qualified success. A coconut syrup milkshake with tapioca swirls was divisive, some attendees minesweeping leftovers, but others providing those leftovers. The bogey green swirls might be a bit challenging for the everyday menu. As the diners melted into the night, sated and happy, we reflected on the evening’s success and the standard of the food. Authentic and unfussy but packed with flavour, Krakatoa hit the spot.Tim and Deeche hit the mark impressively well as we went through our courses. At the end of a lovely evening we’d all made new friends, enjoyed good food and started to formulate plans for the next one…watch this space.

Social: KrakatoaTanner Row, York. Wednesday July 8th 2015. By Ben Thorpe.

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What’s it good for?A selection of real ales and craft beers where great care has been taken in their selection and condition.

Where is it?The Maltings is located right next to Lendal bridge, en-route to town from the station, which places it both just off the York walls and right beside the river, basically it’s ideally located to be accessible from anywhere in York and this is one of its key benefits as a meeting point. I must admit I don’t frequent The Maltings as much as I probably should any more and I need to change that. Before York Tap opened and hoovered up all the commuter trade I used to regularly head to The Maltings for a post-work pint and meet up with friends who had arrived back home by train.

What’s it all about?Tradition runs through everything at The Maltings from the decor to the way its beers are kept to the food, all follow a very traditional core set of values. As an example, I’ve witnessed the “Please do not swear” notices on the wall be very strictly enforced. The Maltings has benefited massively from an extension to the original building that opened up the interior to provide much more space and seating while retaining the same traditional style inside, while also giving the pub a modern outside patio space that catches the afternoon sun. The antique signs adorning the brown walls and the ceiling made of old doors give The Maltings its “Real Pub” feel while providing a backdrop to the up-to-date drinks and regular live music. All round, it works very well. What’s on the bar?The only regular beer is Black Sheep Bitter which is joined by six other guest ales, plus four more real ciders and a selection speciality keg beers such as Leffe Blonde and Erdinger Heffe Weissbier. Behind the bar is also a fridge crammed with Belgian beers and speciality craft ales like Orval and Sierra Nevada.

Do they serve food?Hearty carb-laden lunches are served daily, 12–2 weekdays and 12–4 weekends. From sandwiches and jacket potatoes to sausage, chips & beans, The Maltings now provides a takeaway service for its food offering. For me the food is just here to capitalise on the number of office workers nearby — at heart this place is a boozer.

Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs?There are a couple of steep, tight steps to get in the front door. The pub prides itself on being “A pub for grown ups”. Dogs are allowed in once the lunch service has stopped.

Will you go again?Certainly, with the location combined with the excellent beer selection Ill be trying to visit more than I have in recent times.

Opening HoursMon – Sat : 11:00–23:00Sun : 12:00–22:30

The Maltings Tanner’s Moat, York.

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What’s it good for?Good beer in an untouched, traditional pub.

Where is it?Right at the top of Fossgate opposite The Hop, the Blue Bell is one of the smallest and oldest pubs in York. Untouched for years the Blue Bell provides a tiny enclave to regulars and those in the know from the hustle around it.

What’s it all about?The Blue Bell has attracted some controversy over the years, most notably for its “Private Party” sign that gets pinned to the door whenever York Races is on or on particularly busy Saturday nights to discourage groups from trying to squeeze in. Taken alone I completely agree with this standpoint (although a “No Large Groups” sign would be more appropriate). The pub is tiny and can’t accommodate more than 60 due to fire regulations and without door staff this is the simplest way to keep people out. Saying that I’d rather not be in there with more than 30 as at that level it starts to feel cramped. If you combine this stance with the comments from the landlord about only wanting to let in ‘real regulars’ and that it would refuse entry to ‘weirdy beardies’ visiting the pub, I can see why some would take exception to it. One thing you do find is that the limited space does encourage interaction with the other people in the bar, you inevitably end up sharing a table and then sharing a conversation. I can’t remember the last time I went to the Blue Bell and didn’t end up chatting to the people around me. The front room hosts the bar and looks to have been

untouched for decades, a rarity in the centre of town with refurbishments continuing apace. At the rear is a candle lit oak panelled Smoke Room with an open fire, served through a chest height hatch you have to crouch to order thorough. Running down the corridor are a couple of fold-down wooden seats to perch on like an Edwardian train vestibule, utilising every last space in the place to squeeze people in.

What’s on the bar?The Blue Bell keep their beers very well, there is usually Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, Bradfield Farmer’s Blonde and Bitter, Rudgate Ruby Mild, alongside a few other local guests and a couple of real ciders. The fridge is stocked with a wide range of imported beers but you’ll need to be in the front room to see the list of beers.

Do they serve food?I’ve seen a selection sandwiches available at lunch but don’t count on it, you’re on Fossgate so there are plenty of options for food, just head down the street and pick something you like the look of.

Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs?Steps at the doorway. It does allow dogs but no children are allowed.

Will you go again?I’ll pop in to meet friends who are there, but I rarely choose to go purely because I doubt we’ll get a table.

Opening HoursMonday – Saturday 11:00 – 23:00Sunday 12:00 – 22:30

The Blue Bell Fossgate, York.

While sauntering up an enjoyably pedestrianised Fossgate during a festival I spotted an A-board outside Sutlers announcing their Sunday Lunch. Having not realised they did a roast on Sunday as it wasn’t on the main menu that I’d seen previously, I grasped the opportunity and popped in to see if they could be a contender in my search for York’s Best Sunday Lunch.

What’s on offer?I liked the simplicity of the choice for the Sunday menu: choose from a selection of lamb, beef and pork. Freshly cooked on site this morning. Vegetarian option will be available.1 course £8.95, 2 courses £11.95. And that was it, so we both plumped for the beef.

What worked?I’ll start with the beef as this was exceptional. There was absolutely no gristle to be found as it was both a fantastic cut of meat and had been cooked to perfection rendering all the fat leaving an incredible boozily basted crust.

The Yorkshire pudding was also bang on, fluffy and soft at the base, and just crisping off around the top. The spuds were full of flavour and combined well with the deep, rich gravy. The simple steamed side veg gave a nice crunch and provided the perfect accompaniment to the richness of the main dish and the addition of the baby sweetcorn was popular at the table.

What didn’t work?Sutlers really feels like a bar designed for drinking in and not particularly with eating in mind. I felt crammed in, with the uncomfortable school-chairs back to back so neither person could get out without bashing against the person behind them and the sparse environment and hardwood furniture echoed with every noise. Fine for a weekend evening drinking, but not ideal for a sit-down meal. Although the spuds were some of the tastiest I’ve had so far they lacked any crunch, the only personal disappointment with the food.

Is it York’s Best Sunday Lunch?It’s up there and gains five stars from me, fantastic.

The Puboholic’s search for York’s best Sunday lunch:

Sutlers Fossgate, York.

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RECIPES

31Illustration: James Osborn.

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METHOD

1. The night before, put the walnuts in a medium sized bowl and fill it with just enough water to cover them. Cover with a tea towel and leave in a cool room overnight to soften them.

2. On cooking day dice the red onion and sweat it in a medium pan on the hob, and add all the vegetables. Crumble the stock cube over the top and stir in with the chopped tomatoes. If the water looks a little sparse, only add more when the vegetables have reduced. As they cook they’ll release a lot of their own juices that they’ll cook in; be patient.

3. Heat the mixture on a medium heat and stir intermittently until the liquid has reduced.

4. In the mean time, drain the walnuts and dry them using kitchen towel, before finely chopping them either in a food processor or roughly by hand. Much like the puree, the texture is personal preference. I chopped mine only briefly to keep it chunky, but they can of course be as fine as you like.

5. Finally, add the walnuts to the mixture and cook for 4–5mins. Be careful not to overcook them, or else you’ll lose any texture they hold.

6. Serve with whole-wheat spaghetti, and red wine.

But-Where-Do-You-Get-Your-Protein Bolognese

INGREDIENTS

100g walnuts (unshelled, with the skin)1 large red onion½ jar of sun-dried tomatoes (drained)400g button cup mushrooms1 red pepper1 cup butternut squash (peeled and cubed)1 vegetable stock cube1 tin of chopped tomatoes4 tbsp. passata2 tbsp. tomato purée (this is too your taste – I’m not a fan of the concentrated taste, so more is less for me but this can be altered)1 carrot (peeled)Salt and black coarse pepper to taste

Serve with whole-wheat spaghetti and parsley to garnish.

As a vegan, I often get asked the same questions prying about my health: “but don’t you need meat in your diet?” “How do you get enough protein?” “But are you, like, sure that your diet is healthy and balanced?” and I feel proud to answer that no, I don’t need meat, that my most recent blood test showed my iron/protein/general chemical balances to be perfectly healthy (humble bragging, sorry), and that my plant based diet works for me. Having said that, my family have taken a little more convincing. With my Dad sussing out any meat substitute or meatless curry we try and disguise for dinner, the vegetarian methods in my household have taken some…adjusting to. This is how, amongst failed Quorn and other soya-based replacement meals, my Mum and I began experimenting. Conscious of both simultaneously keeping up protein levels and taste, my Mum devised a genius recipe that had even my Dad fooled: walnuts instead of cardboard copies of mince. And it worked a treat. The recipe serves 3–4 (depending on how hungry your crowd is), and is at least 1 of your 5 day, providing natural plant protein (15g of the stuff in 100g of walnuts) and monosaturated fats. I eat a lot of nuts and grains to keep up a healthy diet, and have found walnuts are some of the best nuts around: high in anti-inflammatory nutrients, omega-3 fatty acids, and many vitamins and minerals. With much experimenting, we came up with this recipe that will please even the stroppiest of guests.

By Catrin Podgorski.

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INGREDIENTS

225g self-raising flour2 tsp. ground cinnamon1 tsp. All Spice (optional)115g unsalted butter, diced and chilled, plus extra for greasing60g light brown sugar2 large eggs, beaten6–8 tbsp. milk, of your choice225g Bramley or Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced100g sultanas

Celebrate the harvest season with this versatile cake, which will help to use up the glut of autumn produce heading our way. The fillings of this rustic cake can be varied according to what you have to hand. You can replace the diced apple with blackberries, pears or other soft fruits. Alternatively, the addition of nuts will create a moreish crunch.We recommend enjoying a slice at teatime, with a strong Yorkshire brew!

METHOD

1. Preheat your oven to 180°C, or 160°C for a fan oven. Grease and line a 20cm cake tin with baking parchment.

2. Add the flour, cinnamon, allspice and butter to a large bowl. Rub the butter into the other ingredients to form breadcrumbs

3. Stir in the sugar and add the eggs and milk. Beat everything together to form a thick, smooth batter.

4. Add to the batter your chosen fillings, in this case, apples and sultanas, making sure that they are evenly mixed into everything.

5. Bake in the oven for 30–40 minutes or until golden and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.

6. Allow to cool in the tin for 15 minutes and then carefully turn out onto a wire rack to cool further.

By Beth Vincent.

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Salmagundi is one of my favourite words in the English culinary language. Similar in meaning to hodgepodge, miscellany or pot-pourri; salmagundi is also the name of a popular salad dish from the 18th century. Originally a meal of green leaves; salted and pickled foods and edible plants it must be served with the utmost amount of artistic flair. A note on authenticity — if you wish to create a version that remains faithful to the period there are a few simple rules to consider… Absolutely no potatoes or tomatoes. Whilst these relatives of the deadly nightshade had arrived in the country by the eighteenth century, scholars believed them to be poisonous and only planted them as ornamentals. Be wild in your presentation. Use a good combination of green leaves, pickled and salted foods, edible flowers and protein. Have fun, be inventive, but remember that it still needs to be edible. The Greedy Wordsmith version was largely made using produce from York Shambles market, aside from the British grown samphire and edible flowers sourced from Henshelwoods Deli on Newgate. Prior to assembly I had a spot of fun designing a pattern for the salmagundi with felt tips and paper before heading into the kitchen. It then occurred to me that this could be a fun way of encouraging children to eat their greens.

"There is nothing new except that which is forgotten."

Marie Antoinette

INGREDIENTS

Iceberg and Lollo Rosso lettuceCucumberCeleryHam hockBoiled eggs

SamphireBeetrootGherkinsParsley Mayonnaise

A FEW TIPS TO CREATE THE PERFECT SALMAGUNDI

• Cut the salad items into various shapes and sizes for good visual impact. Think about creating texture and layer this with complimentary flavours.

• Contrast sweet with sour — salted or pickled with palate cleansers — then finish with oil and vinegar dressing or a creamy mayonnaise.

• If you’re not too worried about historical accuracy then you really can add whatever you want. The heart of a salmagundi lies in showing off.

• Flourish with edible flowers and vegetable carvings for a touch of the dramatic and serve to great applause.

By Claire Davies.

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Staff:Ben Thorpe – Editor What’s your favourite Yorkshire delicacy? …Proper locally brewed Yorkshire bitter, poured through a sparkler.

Beth Vincent – Deputy Editor…Pies filled with meat and jelly.

Grace Neal – Art Director…Rhubarb.

Aimie Ridsdale – Marketing & Advertisingaimieridsdalemarketing.co.uk…Yorkshire Puddings (specifically ones made by my Nana!).

Contributors:Desmond ClarkeClaire DaviesLoren HarrisonJim HelsbyCyrus KayJames Osborn Catrin PodgorskiThe Puboholic

York on a Fork magazine is published by Coffee Yard Media Ltd. www.coffeeyard.media.Printed in Yorkshire by Print29 www.print29.co.uk.

Contact:If you are a restaurant, business, writer, photographer or illustrator and want to work with York on a Fork, we’d love to hear from you. Email Ben ben@benthorpe.co.uk.

Advertising:If you are interested in supporting this magazine by advertising with us, email aimie@aimieridsdalemarketing.co.uk

Stockists:York on a Fork is currently distributed by a selection of quality hotels, restaurants and grocers throughout the city. Please get in touch if your business would like to stock the magazine too.

York on a Fork Issue Five is out 1st December 2015.

Cheers!York on a Fork would like to thank James Boothroyd@Print29, Krakatoa, York Festival of Food & Drink, Jim Helsby, Claire Davies, Loren Harrison, James Osborn, Catrin Podgorski, The Puboholic and all our readers, advertisers and stockists without whom, York on a Fork wouldn’t happen. Ben: Thanks as always to every one of our magnificent contributors, my supportive wife and every one of York’s hard working food suppliers. Beth: Thank you to Grace and Ben for being super talented and letting me be a part of such an amazing project! I would also like to thank everyone who continues to makes York the vibrant and exciting city that I couldn’t bear to leave. Grace: Thank you Singletrack mountain bike magazine, Joe The Husband and Bo The Hamster.

yorkonafork.com @yorkonafork York On A Fork

THE KITCHEN

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