Nov. 11, 2002, 1:57PM

Savoring Shanghai

Exploring Yao Ming's home cooking

By DAI HUYNHCopyright 2002 Houston Chronicle

Yao Ming, the Houston Rockets' towering new center, hails from Shanghai, a bustling seaport dating to the Ming Dynasty. The city is situated at the basin of the longest river in China, the Yangtze.

With more than 13 million residents, Shanghai is a beehive of commercial activity. For centuries, merchants and other visitors from neighboring districts and provinces have converged in China's largest city. In addition to impacting Shanghai's commerce, they also have enriched its menus.

"It's very typical to find six or eight different cooking styles on one menu (in Shanghai)," says chef-owner Robin Luo of China View on the Katy Freeway.

No wonder Yao found it tough to name a favorite Shanghai dish.

"Oh, there's lots of different Shanghai dishes," he says.

If the basketball star misses the food offerings of home, he has mom Fang Feng Di.

"She's cooking for him a lot. She's a good cook," says Yao's interpreter, Colin Pine.

China is famous for rare and costly delicacies such as Dragon Well tea, bird's nest soup and braised abalone. A superstar back home, Yao can choose to eat whatever he wants, no matter how dear the ingredients. But this basketball pro's rocket fuel is anything but expensive and exotic.

"Homey food," he says with a wide smile and sans interpreter. "Soups. Chicken soup, duck soup, all kinds of soups."

Typical is the pork and bean curd soup with Chinese ham (similar to smoked Smithfield ham), ginger and Shaoxing rice wine.

Craig H. Hartley / Special to the ChronicleOne of chef Robin Luo's specialties, braised prawns Shanghai style, seved at China View on the Katy Freeway.

Shaoxing wine is one part of the holy trinity of Shanghai cooking. "(The Chinese) use it in everything," China View's Luo says.

Sugar and soy sauce -- the yin and the yang -- complete the trio. Sweetness and saltiness characterize many Shanghai dishes. The most famous are the red-cooked dishes that are simmered with soy sauce and sugar, Houston cookbook author Dorothy Huang says.

Some dishes are a subtle blend of foods imported by foreign merchants. Whipping cream, ketchup and pine nuts are commonly incorporated into favorites such as baby bok choy with cream sauce and braised chicken with pine nuts.

Vegetables and fruits grow abundantly near Shanghai, providing green soybeans, mustard seedlings, winter bamboo shoots, bok choy, fava beans, eggplants and oranges.

Oranges were cultivated in China about 3,000 years ago. Cooks often add oranges to dishes to create another layer of flavor, restaurateur Sanne Wang says.

At Shanghai River restaurant on Westheimer, Wang makes an orange-peel chicken and a sweet-and-sour sauce from the peel and juice.

Surrounded by rivers and the sea, Shanghai is the "land of fish and rice," Luo says. Catches include shad, carp, eel, prawn and hairy crab.

Seven-foot-five Yao confesses, however, that he's not a big seafood fan.

"Not all seafood, just some," he says.

One specialty he is fond of is prawns braised with soy sauce, sugar and Shaoxing wine.

Even with his mom in the kitchen, Yao won't have much free time to savor his favorite foods.

THE SHANGHAI PANTRY· Bamboo shoots: Golden cone-shaped bamboo shoots are available canned, packed in water. After opening, store in a container of fresh water in the refrigerator.

· Bok choy: A variety of Chinese cabbage with smooth white stalks and large green leaves. Sold fresh in the produce section.

· Chile paste and sauce: Different regions in China make various fiery pastes and sauces. Most contain peppers, garlic, ginger and soybean or sesame oil.

· Hoisin sauce: Dark and thick pastelike sauce that colors meats and stir-fries a reddish-brown. Add to recipes for hints of sweetness and smokiness.

· Water chestnut: An edible tuber with white flesh and crunchy texture. Sold fresh or canned, either whole, sliced or diced.

· Dried shrimp: Small, shelled dried shrimp with a pungent and salty flavor. Sold by weight in Asian markets. Store in a tightly sealed jar.

· Oyster sauce: Thick brown sauce with a rich, sweet, salty flavor. Made from oysters, soy sauce and brine. Store at room temperature.

· Peanut oil: Clear oil pressed from peanuts, it is prized by Chinese cooks for its high smoke point.

· Sesame oil: Strong nutty-flavored oil made from roasted sesame seeds. Store at room temperature.

· Shaoxing rice wine: There are many kinds of rice wines in China. This is the most prized. Shaoxing rice wine is from the city of Shao Hsing in eastern China. Similar to dry sherry and sake, which can be substituted in a pinch.

· Sweet rice: Not sweet at all, this variety of short-grain rice becomes glutinous when cooked.

· Soy sauce: An essential ingredient in the Chinese kitchen and readily available, soy sauce can be light, regular or dark in color.

· Zhenjiang vinegar: A dark brown vinegar reminiscent of Italian balsamic vinegar. Made with polished glutinous rice, it is used to enliven many Shanghai dishes.

Asian markets Ingredients are sold in Chinese and Vietnamese markets, including Diho Market (9280 Bellaire Blvd., 713-988-1881); Hong Kong Food Market (11205 Bellaire Blvd., 281-575-7886); and Hong Kong Food Market 3 (13400 Veterans Memorial Drive, 281-537-5280).

"The Rockets are playing on the road a lot," interpreter Pine says. "So right now, he's eating mostly fast food."

Lion's Head Meatballs

Traditionally served on New Year's Day, these meatballs have nothing to do with the animal, China View chef-owner Robin Luo says. The name comes from the meatballs' enormous size and the Napa cabbage, or the "mane."

MEATBALLS:1 tablespoon dried shrimp1 pound lean pork2 tablespoons minced water chestnuts2 eggs, beaten2 teaspoons granulated sugar1/2 teaspoon salt2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon chopped green onions, green part onlyDash white pepper1 1/2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine1 teaspoon minced garlic1 teaspoon minced ginger1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

SAUCE:1 to 2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus additional for drizzling1 teaspoon minced garlic1 teaspoon minced ginger1 tablespoon chopped green onion, white part only4 whole star anise2 cups chicken stock8 large Napa cabbage leaves2 teaspoons soy sauce2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine1 tablespoon granulated sugarSalt to taste1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch5 tablespoons waterSteamed rice

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Soak dried shrimp 15 to 20 minutes; drain well. Chop shrimp finely. In a large bowl, mix shrimp with pork, water chestnuts, eggs, sugar, salt, soy sauce, green onions, pepper, rice wine, garlic, ginger and cornstarch. Stir until well blended and smooth. Form meat mixture into tennis-ball-size meatballs and place on baking sheet. Bake 15 to 18 minutes, or until cooked through.

To make sauce, heat sesame oil in a wok over medium heat. Add garlic, ginger, green onions and star anise. Stir-fry 15 seconds before adding chicken stock and cabbage. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes or until leaves wilt. Add soy sauce, rice wine and sugar; season with salt to taste. Bring to a boil and add meatballs. Reduce heat and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, combine cornstarch with water, blending well. Stir into sauce to thicken; finish with a drizzle of sesame oil. To serve, arrange cabbage leaves on bottom of plate. Place meatballs on top; serve immediately with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Shanghai Prawns

1tablespoon peanut oil1 1/2teaspoons minced garlic2 teaspoons chopped green onions, white part only1 1/2 teaspoons minced ginger1 pound prawns or large shrimp, peeled or unpeeled3 tablespoons ketchup1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine2 tablespoons soy sauce3 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar1 teaspoon Zhenjiang vinegar6 tablespoons chicken stock2 teaspoons oyster sauceSalt to taste1 teaspoon sesame oilSteamed rice

Heat peanut oil in wok over high heat. Add garlic, green onions and ginger; stir-fry briefly, about five seconds. Add prawns, stirring constantly until they turn pink. Continue to stir while adding ketchup, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, chicken stock and oyster sauce. Season with salt to taste. Reduce to medium heat; simmer until sauce reduces to a glaze. Drizzle with sesame oil, toss lightly and transfer to serving plate. Serve immediately with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Baby Bok Choy in Cream Sauce

1 1/2 pound baby bok choy, washed and cut in half1 tablespoon peanut oil1 tablespoon minced garlic1/2 tablespoon minced ginger1 tablespoon chopped scallions, white part only1 cup chicken stock1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugarSalt and ground white pepper to taste1 teaspoon oyster sauce

2 tablespoons whipping cream or half-and-half1 teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine1 teaspoon Zhenjiang vinegar1 1/2 tablespoon cornstarch5 tablespoons waterSteamed rice

Blanch bok choy in boiling water for 10 seconds; drain well.

Heat oil in wok over medium-high heat. Stir in garlic, ginger and scallions; sauté 5 seconds. Add bok choy; cook until tender.

Stir in chicken stock, sugar, salt, pepper, oyster sauce, whipping cream, rice wine and vinegar; cook 1 minute.

In a small bowl, combine cornstarch with water, blending well. Stir into sauce to thicken. Remove from stove; serve immediately with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Chicken With Cucumber and Pine Nuts

1 pound chicken breast, cut into bite-size cubes2 eggs, beaten10 tablespoons cornstarch (divided), plus 1 1/2 tablespoons2 tablespoons vegetable oil4 to 5 tablespoons pine nuts4 tablespoons peanut oil, divided1 teaspoon garlic, chopped1 1/2 tablespoons green onions, chopped1 tablespoon red bell pepper, diced1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped into bite-size cubes5 tablespoons water1 cup chicken stock2 teaspoons granulated sugar2 teaspoons soy sauceSalt and ground white pepper to taste2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine1 teaspoon Zhenjiang vinegar2 tablespoons sesame oilSteamed rice

Place chicken in large bowl; mix with eggs and 5 tablespoons cornstarch. Allow to stand 15 minutes.

Heat vegetable oil in wok over medium heat. Stir in pine nuts; cook until light golden. Transfer pine nuts to paper-lined plate to drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil in wok over high heat, add chicken; stir-fry until golden but still undercooked. Transfer chicken to paper-lined plate to drain.

Add remaining peanut oil to wok and bring to temperature over high heat. Stir in garlic and green onions; sauté 5-8 seconds. Add bell pepper and cucumber; stir-fry 15 seconds. Return chicken to wok; reduce heat to medium; simmer 30 seconds. In a small bowl, combine remaining cornstarch with water; set aside.

Add chicken stock, sugar, soy sauce, salt, pepper, rice wine and vinegar; cook until chicken is done. Add cornstarch mixture to thicken sauce. Add pine nuts; drizzle with sesame oil; toss lightly and serve immediately with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Yu Shiang Eggplant

One of Yao Ming's favorite vegetables is eggplant. Here's a traditional recipe from restaurateur Sanne Wang.

1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil4 (3-ounce) Chinese eggplants, stalks removed and cut into cubes1/2 tablespoon ginger, chopped1 teaspoon garlic, chopped1 tablespoon hot chile sauce2 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon granulated sugar1 teaspoon salt1/2 cup chicken or beef stock1/2 tablespoon Zhenjiang vinegar1/2 tablespoon sesame oil1 tablespoon green onion, choppedSteamed rice

Heat oil in a large frying pan or wok over high heat; add eggplant; reduce heat to medium-low. Stir-fry until eggplant is soft, about 3 minutes. Press eggplant against side of pan to remove excess oil. Transfer eggplant to a bowl; set aside. Add ginger, garlic and chile sauce to pan; sauté over high heat for a few seconds. Add soy sauce, sugar, salt and stock; bring to a boil. Return eggplant to pan; cook about 1 minute or until sauce evaporates. Add vinegar and sesame oil; toss well. Gently mix in green onions. Serve immediately with steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

Shanghai Home-Style Soup

This meal-in-a-bowl soup is from restaurateur Sanne Wang.

8 ounces Chinese ham12 (4-inch by-4-inch) bean curd sheets8 ounces lean pork (see note)

1 can winter bamboo shoots1 teaspoon salt4 peeled ginger slices2 scallions, chopped1 teaspoon granulated sugar1/2 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine1 teaspoon white pepper

Soak ham in hot water 30 minutes; rise with cold water and cut into cubes.

Fold bean curd sheets in half, then fold again. Tie bean curd strips into knots (to resemble miniature bow ties).

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Put pork in a heat-proof hand-held strainer and dip into boiling water 20 seconds; drain and set aside.

In a soup pot, bring 8 cups water to a boil. Add ham, pork, bamboo shoots, bean curd, salt, ginger, scallions, sugar and rice wine; reduce heat to low and cook for 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Pour soup into individual bowls; lightly sprinkle white pepper on top; serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Duck or chicken, cut into bite-size pieces, may be substituted for pork. Follow same cooking procedures as for pork.

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