Working With Labs Using Test Methods And Product Performance Specifications

Adam R. VarleyCOO & Technical DirectorVartest Laboratories, Inc.

FOR THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

March 3rd 2016

Standard Test Methods• Test methods are standard, reproducible and

precise procedures for determining the properties of something.

• AATCC, IFAI, ASTM, ISO and other consensus based bodies promulgate test methods.

• Standards help us move goods effectively along the fiber-yarn-fabric-apparel pipeline.

Standard Performance Specifications • Standards reside beside tool use as

hallmarks of humanity's advancing technical endeavors.

• Product performance specifications are lists of test result requirements that a product needs to possess in order to be in conformance with a certain expected level of quality.

• The FTC, CPSC, states such as California, ASTM, Retailers, Apparel Manufacturers and International Entities all generate product performance specifications.

• Historically and culturally performance specifications are crucial to societal development. Without standards we wouldn’t know what time it is or be able to drive safely or enjoy modern industrial efficiency.

Pieter Breugel’s Tower Of Babel - 1563

1950 1953 1971 1996 2008 2014 2016

NUMBER OF TESTS PERFORMED

FLAMMABLE FABRIC ACT 16CFR1610

CHILDREN’S SLEEPWEAR

AZODYES

CPSIA

PFOAS

Starting in 1953 with 16 CFR 1610 an increasingly wide network of product performance specifications control trade in fiber, yarn fabric and other end

use items. RSL testing is the latest of these specification advents. The movement towards product performance specifications also coincided with

the need to control off shore manufacturing supply chains.

The Evolution Of Performance SpecificationsThe Number Of Tests Performed Annually

Your Lab Is Your Friend Providing completely unbiased

independent information that helps you to better understand your products. Helping you control your supply chain. Increasing understanding of defective

incoming raw materials and outgoing products. Enabling you to set manufacturing

tolerances for fiber yarn fabric and apparel particularly for technical textile end uses such as PPE and military. Supporting programs with major

retailers. Complying with nationally and state

mandated product safety requirements.

COMMUNICATING WITH THE LAB:

• Is your request clear? Are you asking for the tests you need or that your customer wants?• Are your samples clearly marked –preferably permanently. • Is the face clearly identified?• How fast do you need results (turn time)?• Have you sent enough fabric for the test to be performed?

THE BASICS – ALL TEXTILE TESTS DEAL WITH THE FOLLOWING:

• What is a specimen?• What is a sample? • What is the no test zone on a piece of full width fabric • What is conditioning?• Let’s look at a test method!

THE BASICS - TESTING FOR FABRIC WEIGHT -THE DATA:

SAME FABRIC MASS PER UNIT AREA EQUIVALENTS

Grams per Ounces per Ounces per Ounces per Ounces per

Square Meter Square Yard Linear Yard Linear Yard Linear Yard

43" Width 60" Width 86" Width

Area Weight (36" X 36") (36" X 43") (36" X 60") (36" X 86")

sq in g gsm osy oly @ 43" oly @ 60" oly @ 86"

Disc 1 of 5 5.7145 0.3870 105.0 3.10 3.70 5.16 7.40

Disc 2 of 5 5.7145 0.3937 106.8 3.15 3.76 5.25 7.52

Disc 3 of 5 5.7145 0.4092 111.0 3.27 3.91 5.46 7.82

Disc 4 of 5 5.7145 0.4039 109.6 3.23 3.86 5.39 7.72

Disc 5 of 5 5.7145 0.3944 107.0 3.16 3.77 5.26 7.54

average 107.9 3.18 3.80 5.30 7.60

Traditional Product Performance Specifications Comprise:

Construction: Fabric Weight, Fabric Count, Yarn SizePhysical Testing: Seam Slippage, Tensile Strength, Tear StrengthColorfastness: Crocking, Lightfastness, Colorfastness to Washing and Dry Cleaning, Colorfastness to Atmospheric Contaminants, Colorfastness to Perspiration, Colorfastness to Chlorinated PoolwaterRefurbishment: Dimensional Change and Appearance after Washing and/or Drycleaning.Compliance: Flammability (CPSC), Fiber Content (FTC) and Care Labeling (FTC).

Machine

WashningMachine

Flamm

Some New Product Standards And How To Understand Them And Other Standards:

Anti Bacterial, Anti FungalMoisture ManagementFiber IdentificationLight Blocking

Some of these new Standards are important as they are the only way to check the performance of finishes and attributes which generate high margin and high material cost but which are impossible to detect by visual inspection.

Most new Standards require a shake down period after being issued. Despite the best efforts of the committee users of the new standard find areas for improvement in test methods that need to be incorporated into subsequent editions.

Test Options MatterYear Of Last Revision MatterMatching Test Methods To Product Claims MatterUnderstanding Test Method And Manufacturing Variation Matter

TEST METHOD OPTIONS MATTER Anti Bacterial, Anti Fungal, Anti Odor:

Specifications are tested for compliance using AATCC Test Methods 30 (antifungal) , 147 and 100 (antibacterial) with and without Natick modifications, ASTM E2180 (antibacterial), G21, G22 (anti fungal). Be sure that the report is detailed and that any method options or modifications are reported.

Different antibacterial finishes may react differently depending on the various options of the test that are used. Unless the fabric manufacturer, apparel manufacturer and final customer are aware of what options are being followed attempts to control the supply chain can be adversely impacted. This applies to many other test methods and performance specifications than just anti microbial.

Light blocking: The AATCC 148-1986 traditional approach.

Light blocking: Specifications are tested for compliance using AATCC Test Methods 148-1986.

Light blocking: The AATCC 148-2014 approach.

Light blocking: Specifications are tested for compliance using AATCC Test Methods 148-2014.

THE YEAR OF LAST REVISION MATTERS

Light blocking: The AATCC 203-2014 approach.

The technician places the sample inside the spectrophotometer for measurement in transmission mode.

Moisture Management

AATCC 199 Drying Rate Instrument

Is the fabric water repellent, water resistant or water proof? There are different tests that establish basis for these different performance attributes.

Is the fabric making a moisture vapor permeability claim? JIS 1099-2012, Method B1 gives results generally two orders of magnitude higher than ASTM E96 2015 Option B.

Is the fabric making a wicking claim. Vertical wicking is still probably the most commonly called out method (AATCC 197). There are others, horizontal wicking, the MMT and more.

Drying time is addressed via Heated Plate Drying Rate AATCC 201, Air Flow Drying Rate AATCC 200 and Moisture Analyzer Drying Rate AATCC 199.

You have to match the right method with right claim in order to have reasonable basis and

effective merchandising.

The Revision Year MattersTest methods and performance specifications change over time with changes in technology, market pressures and committee activity.

The year of last revision is usually indicated after the number of the test method:

AATCC 20A-2014 (Has a method for para aramid/meta aramid blends)AATCC 20A-2000 (Does not have a method for para aramid/meta aramid blends)

If you asked a lab to give you the percentage of Nomex® in a Nomex®/Kevlar® blend using AATCC 20A-2000 they would have a hard time. Neither ASTM nor ISO have a test method that works for quantifying this type of blend. AATCC 20A is the only one.

THE YEAR OF LAST REVISION OF PRODUCT PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS MATTERS FOR TWO REASONS:

1. Product Performance Specifications Change Over Time: For example: The 2014 edition of the NFPA Standard For Station Workwear 2014 includes Anti Microbial, Permethrin and Water Absorption tests that are not present in the 2009 edition.

2. Product Performance Specifications Reference Test Methods: This can be done in two ways: without mentioning the year of the test methods referenced and with the revision year specifically stated. If no revision year is referenced then the Committee drafting the performance specification has ceded part of their control over the method to the Committee that drafts the test method.

Using textile tests to demonstrate compliance with product performance specifications:

• You need to understand the variation the test you are using has with respect to the particular product you are working with. Typically this only comes with experience.

• Remember every textile has its own particular stochastic character with respect to each test that it is subjected to.

• Be sure that both the manufacturing variation inherent in the product and the testing variation, when factored into the nominal value associated with the product give rise to a pass when the product is tested.

Think ahead about testing and manufacturing variation that lies near a Product Performance Specification:

Nominal Value Testing And ManufacturingVariation

This Is A Safe Place For The Product Performance Specification To Be

Avoid the curve of sleepless nights:Nominal Value

Testing And ManufacturingVariation

Counter party test results straddle the nominal value and performance specification. This scenario can lead to finger pointing and pointless disputes instead of the development of better products and better profit levels.

Buyer Test Results Seller Test Results

Product Performance Specification

Also Precarious:

• Entering into a program where there is no product performance specification for key product attributes at all.

• For example: how much zinc is a mill required to use to support a zinc based anti microbial claim.

Test Method and Product Performance Specification Scenarios That Stand To Gain From Sleepless Night Curve Consideration:

• Non chemically or mechanically separable fiber blends like ramie/cotton and PBI/PBO.

• Opacity or light blocking effect testing of multi color fabrics.• Some basic tests such as colorfastness to crocking and dimensional

stability (shrinkage).• Pilling. Execution must be correct and rating can be challenging.• Abrasion. What is the endpoint, definition of a hole, number of broken

yarns, mass loss, appearance change?• Instrumented Manikin testing for burn protection what sensors are used.

Note that these attributes are critical performance features – even though the methods given the best state of the art testing techniques still display more variation than we would like we can’t blame the test or pretend that the variation doesn’t exist. We as counterparties are best served by acknowledging it and working with it. And there is a lot of work to do.

You can participate in the consensus based standards making process if you wish to.

• Join the standards making bodies.• AATCC: The American Association of Textile

Chemists and Colorists www.aatcc.org• ASTM: The American Society for Testing and

Materials www.astm.org• ISO: Through AATCC and ANSI The American

National Standards Institute www.ansi.org• Even if you don’t fly to meetings or vote you can be

a member and read the magazines of these entities to keep abreast of new standard developments and seminars.

SOME TESTING WORK DOES NOT REQUIRE STANDARD METHODS AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS:

• Microscopy

• Defect Analysis

• Fabric Construction and Coating Analysis

Cross Sections

Texturized Polyester

Cross Sections

Ramie/Rayon/Linen

Cross Sections

Saponified Acetate

DEFECT ANALYSIS – YARN CONTAMINATION.

Fabric Structure Analysis

Single BarAtlas Stitch

Warp Knit

Fabric Structure Analysis

Heavily coated non woven glass fabric the glass substrate is on top.

Silica

Sulfur

Calcium

Fabric Structure And Finish Analysis

Element Weight % Weight %Error

Carbon 63.33 +/- 0.20Nitrogen Negligible ---Oxygen 30.91 +/- 0.14Fluorine 5.17 +/- 0.13Sodium 0.20 +/- 0.02Aluminum 0.03 +/- 0.01Silicon 0.07 +/- 0.01Titanium 0.29 +/- 0.02

Total 100.00

High twist plain weave with calendered mechanical finish and fluorocarbon applied finish.

Fabric Structure & Finish Analysis

Plain weave with fluorocarbon finish andurethane backcoating.

Element Weight % Weight % ErrorCarbon 78.30 +/- 1.54Oxygen 18.07 +/- 0.71Fluorine 1.82 +/- 0.27Sodium 0.47 +/- 0.05Sulfur 0.60 +/- 0.03

Chlorine 0.39 +/- 0.03Potassium 0.16 +/- 0.03

Calcium 0.18 +/- 0.03Total 100.00

Drawback To Using Non Standard Test Methods

• Effect of confirmation bias on both protocol design and results.• Absence of a peer review process that accompanies consensus based standards.• Absence of a proficiency trial system to support testing.• A more difficult time demonstrating that findings can be independently reproduced.• Difficulty in disseminating the in house method to a supply chain comprising many labs.

The vast amount of tests performed globally and in the United States are those which follow consensus based standards like AATCC, ISO and ASTM.

Test Methods Are Affected By Historical Inertia Which Is Counterposed By Advancing Technology

The first accelerated lightfastness tests were done using carbon arc lights.

Xenon lights followed as they were found to be more representative of natural sunlight.

Finally the instruments used for accelerated light testing were standardized using performance based rather than instrument or machine based test methods.

There are many other examples likes this one being the move from CRT to CRE tensile testing equipment. But carbon arc performance specifications are still used.

1880s

1960s

2000

TEST METHODS DO GET BETTER OVER TIME EXAMPLE: ASTM D6413

The D13 Textiles Committee of ASTM has worked diligently over the years to improve the performance of this test which is critical for use in life safety end uses.

Moving the gas control solenoid inside the chamber has substantially increased the consistency of this test..

The ISO/IEC 17025 Accreditation System Assures That

• Traceable, calibrated instruments are used for all measurements.

• Current versions of called out test methods are used.• Employees are trained appropriately.• Proficiency round trial testing is in place.• Internal Quality Audits take place.• On Site External Quality Audits are conducted by the

accrediting body regularly.• Continuous improvement policies are in place and

being used.• A Quality Manual exists and is being used and

maintained.

The Broad Range Of Vartest’s A2LA Scope Gives Us The Ability To Support A Wide Range Of Testing Programs

• High Visibility Safety Apparel Testing Of Tapes, Fabrics And Trim.

• Routine Supply Chain Management Testing of Medical and Military Textiles

• Customs And Border Protection Related Testing• Litigation Support• Personal Protective Equipment Testing• Independent testing to support transactions between

manufacturers and retailers.• We are ISO 17025 Accredited, Independent, Confidential

and have a fast turnaround capability.

NEW TEST METHODS TO SUPPORT A TEXTILE RESURGENCE IN THE UNITED STATES

The Garden Of Earthly Delights

Bosch Ca. 1470

Our product development and sourcing efforts should not be stuck in a Tower of Babel of test method and performance specification numbers, years of last revisions and options and they don’t have to be.

Developing new Test Methods and Product Performance Specifications that reflect our technical ingenuity and advances is key to ensuring a robust US fiber yarn fabric and apparel industry, from fiber through to retail.

SOME IMPORTANT MOVIES THAT RELATE TO TEXTILES, TESTING AND TECHNOLOGY:• The Man In The White Suit: Ealing Studios 1951 Satirical

comedy of the ups and down of scientific innovation in the fiber-yarn-fabric-apparel pipeline. Reminiscent of the ups and downs of TRIS based flame retardants over the past 50 years.

• The Andromeda Strain: 1971 Michael Crichton's first movie - even the best scientists and lab workers make mistakes!

• 2001 A Space Odyssey: 1968 Screenplay by Stanley Kubrick and Arthur C. Clarke written at the Chelsea Hotel on 23rd Street. Inspiring overview of how far technology has taken us and how far we can go. Watch for the four million year match cut.

Thank You For Your Time And AttentionThis Presentation Is Available For

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