WOMBOT EXILIS ASSEMBLY GUIDE€¦ · WOMBOT EXILIS ASSEMBLY GUIDE 1 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5 The assembly of the printer is straight forward. The assembly

WOMBOT EXILIS ASSEMBLY GUIDE

1 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

The assembly of the printer is straight forward. The assembly starts with an assembly of the

frame, X axis and connecting all electronics. The printer assembly process requires mostly basic skill

and some soldering. Make sure that you use shrink tubing on the soldered connection where

appropriate.

During assembly one of the first and most important steps is not to forget to insert the

required sliding nuts. If you do forget some you will have to go back and disassemble the frame and

put the nuts in.

The parts are 3D printed and might require minor clean-up. Before you start make sure that

your workplace is clean and free of safety hazards.


2 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5


3 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Frame assembly


4 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

1. What goes where see Figure 1.

Figure 1 Printer frame layout

There are 3pcs of aluminium profile 30x30 and 330mm long. They are your cross

beam for the printer. The one with a drilled hole goes in front with the hole looking up.

2. All of the parts are fixed to the frame using the sliding nuts. If the nuts have not been

inserted before putting the frame together you will not be able to finish the printer. The

locations of the sliding nuts that must be inserted before bolting frame together are shown

in Figure 2 - Figure 4.

a) There are 3pcs M5 sliding nuts in the front of the front member. 2 of them are for the

front cap and 1 is for the LCD.

b) 2pcs of M6 go into the top of the front member – they are for the Y axis rails.

c) 1pcs M5 sliding nuts go into the back of the front member and one goes on the inside of

the left member. These ones will be used to attach RAMPS box.

d) Back member needs 2pcs M5 sliding nuts in the top for the Y motor bracket and either

M6 sliding nuts for the Y axis rails

e) In the back of the back member 2pcs M5 sliding nuts are required – they will hold the

back end cap.


5 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 2 Main sliding nut locations


6 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 3 Location of the nuts on the base looking from the front

Figure 4 Location of the nuts on the base looking from the back

3. After the sliding nuts have been inserted the frame can be assembled. Put the members

together and attach those using provided internal brackets. See the Figure 5. Please note

that the image has bolts, you have been provided with grub screws.


7 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 5 Base of the printer

4. After assembling the base you can attach the vertical members. Install them 75mm from the

back. The process is the same as in previous step – just attach the members using the

internal brackets. After this step you should have frame of the printer just like in the Figure

6.


8 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 6 Base with attached vertical members


9 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 7 Gantry location – bracket is aligned with inside of the profile

5. After the base has been assembled install the Y axis idler wheel. Use provided M8 bolt with

hexagon head, the idler wheel and the Nylon nut. After installation it should look like in the

Figure 8.


10 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 8 Y axis idler wheel

6. After the installation of the idler wheel install the Y axis rails. For that use 390mm long 20x20

profiles and M6 20mm bolts. Loosely tighten the bolts so that you could still slide the rails

sideways. Now take the endcaps they have double purpose – they protect the idler wheel

and also work as a spacers for the Y axis rails. It will make sure that your rails a parallel.

Using the idler wheel endcap position it so that the wheel spins freely. Using an alien key

tighten the bolts so that Y axis rails would not move any more.

Figure 9 Y axis rails location

13.6cm


11 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

7. Slide in M5 sliding nuts on the side members from back and front and using 10mm M5 bolts

attached the Z motor brackets. The motors are not needed at this stage since they will be

inserted from underneath with leadscrews.

Figure 10 Z motor brackets attached to frame

8. Using 8mm M3 bolts attach the Y motor to the bracket and using 10mm M5 bolt attach the

bracket to the frame. See Figure 11 and Figure 12.

Z brackets

M5 Sliding

nuts to be

inserted


12 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 11 Y axis motor and the bracket

Figure 12 Full frame base view


13 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

9. The belt pulley can be installed at this stage. Please note that it has to be installed upside

down. See Figure 13.

Figure 13 Y axis pulley installation

10. At this stage the frame is ready for the bed installation. The bed consists of the aluminium

plate and a heat bed itself. Depending on the version of the bed that you have received you

might need to solder the cables to it. To do that follow the marking on the bed for 12V

installation. The heatbed is supported by the aluminium plate underneath that help to level

it and works as a carriage. Don’t forget to attach the thermistor to the middle of the bed.

Attach the cable to the heatbed using Kapton tape.

The bed is installed with 2 wheels on the left and 1 wheel on the right.

11. For the bed installation you will need:

a) 3pcs M5x40mm bolts

b) 6pcs M5 nylon nuts

c) 6pcs M5 washers

d) 3pcs M8 washer

e) 5pcs M3x20mm bolts

f) 7pcs M3 nuts

g) 3pcs wing nuts

h) 3pcs bed supports springs

i) 2pcs M3x25

j) 3pcs eccentrics

k) 3pcs printed spacers

Install the eccentrics in the pre-drilled holes. The collar on the eccentric is a little taller than

the thickness of the plate – this is fixed using the M8 washer (see Figure 15). So the bolt installation

sequence is from top to bottom – M5 washer, M8 washer, aluminium plate, eccentric, 3D printed

spacer, M5 washer, nylon nut, black wheel and nylon nut again. Please refer to Figure 16. The first

nylon nut can be done tight as you want, the last one that is holding the wheel can’t be overdone. If

you overdo it – it will affect the rotation of the wheel and/or might damage the ball bearing. So it

has to be just tight enough so that no movement on the wheel is felt.

Install 3 supporting legs.


14 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 14 Aluminium plate that supports heated bed (not the bolts and nuts are laid out in the sequence that have to be installed)

Figure 15 Aluminium plate leg bolt from the top


15 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 16 Aluminium plate leg bolt from the side

Figure 17 Bed with installed legs

12. Install GT2 belt bracket using M3 20mm bolts. Attach gt2 belt using a wedge. See Figure 17

and Figure 18.

Only 2 holes will

fit your bracket


16 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 18 Aluminium plate with attached bracket and belt

13. Innstall the bed on the rails and cut the belt to length

Figure 19 Length of the belt

14. Attach the belt to the bracket using belt buckle and M3 25mm bolts

Front of the

printer


17 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 20 Aluminium belt with attached belt

15. MK3 bed sits on the top of aluminium plate that you just installed. The setup is shown in the

Figure 21 and Figure 22Error! Reference source not found.. Please note that cables to the

heatbed go on the right side of the printer and then underneath of the bed. This allows

more flexibility for the cables and reduces the chances of failure.

The heatbed is supported by 3 legs. Use M3 20mm bolts. See Figure 22.

Figure 21 Heatbead with support

Front of the

printer


18 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 22 Heatbed supporting legs

16. Attach the heatbed to the supporting plate Wingnuts. The bed can go either way – with

painted side up or down. The heating element is under the paint – on the side where the

connections are. It might be more convenient to install the cables down, so it stays out of

the way, because the bed is aluminium and will heat through anyway.

Figure 23 Heatbed and supporting plate

17. To install the endtops solder the endstop wires first. This is required for the X and Y

endstops. Since the printer has auto bed levelling there is no Z endstop – the proximity

sensor works as an endstop. Insert them into the endstop bracket. Install end stop – front


19 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

left corner, see Figure 26. Use M4x10mm bolt and a sliding nut. The final location will be

fine-tuned at a later stage.

Figure 24 Endstop with soldered wires


20 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 25 Endstop in the bracket

Figure 26 Endstop location

18. At this stage you should have the frame with sliding bed installed. In the next step you will

assemble the X axis.

19. For the X-axis assembly you will need:

a) 11pcs M4x10mm bolts

b) 11pcs M4 sliding nuts

c) 4pcs M3x8mm

d) 11pcs M4 washers

e) 4pcs white wheels

f) 4pcs M8x40mm bolts

g) 4pcs M8 nylon nuts


21 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

h) 4pcs M8 nuts

20. Install the M8 bolts into the X-axis brackets. Tighten the nut and install the wheel. In this

case make all nuts tight since they allow to the wheel to spin freely. Assemble both sides –

right and left. See Figure 27 and Figure 29.

Figure 27 X axis brackets and other parts


22 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 28 X axis bracket with bolts installed

Figure 29 X axis bracket with installed wheels


23 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

21. Insert the M4 sliding nuts into the X axis rail. For the location and number see

Figure 30 X axis rail and nut locations

Figure 31 X axis rail and nut locations

22. In this step you will assemble X axis idler. For that you will need:

a) 1pcs M5x35mm bolt

b) M5 Nylon nut

c) M5 washer

d) Gt2 belt pulley

e) 2 smaller ball bearings that you have received

The idler must be assembled inside the bracket. The pulley becomes suspended on the ball

bearing and this reduces the friction.


24 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 32 Idler bracket with components laid in installation order


25 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 33 Assembled idler outside the bracket

To assemble the idler insert the ballbearings into the sockets – upper and lower inside the

bracket. Insert the pulley and the washer. Put the bolt from the top and the nylon nut from the

bottom. Tighten but not too much. Nylon nut will prevent not allow the nut to loosen.

23. After the idler has been assembled you can attach it to the X axis. At this stage it is highly

advised to thread the belt as it might be a lot more difficult after the bracket is attached to

the X axis. Use M4 10mm bolts and sliding nuts to fasten the bracket to the axis. After the

idler has been secured adjust the X axis bracket – push it right to the idler and fasten the

bolts.


26 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 34 X idler on the axis - don't forget the belt

24. Assemble x axis motor end

You will need:

a) Motor bracket

b) Nema 17 Motor

c) 4pcs 8mm M3 bolts

d) 1pcs M6 nut

e) 1pcs M6 35mm Bolt

f) Belt pulley

Insert the nut into the socket and screw the bolt in as in the Figure 36. Install the pulley on

the motor and attach the motor to the bracket using M3 botls.

Figure 35 X motor parts


27 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 36 installation of the tensioning bolt

25. Attach the X motor to the X axis.


28 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 37 Installed X motor


29 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 38 Installed X motor

26. In this step you will assemble the extruder carriage. For this you will need:

a) Extruder carriage

b) 3pcs black wheels

c) 3pcs eccentric nuts

d) 3pcs M5 nylon nuts

e) 3pcs M5 nuts

f) 3pcs M5 washer

g) 3pcs M5 35mm bolts

To assemble the carriage put the bolts in. Insert the eccentrics into the holes, put

the washer on and tighten the nut. Make it tight. Put the two top wheels on and tighten the

nylon nut. Leave the bottom wheel off. Do not overdo the nylon nut – it might damage the

ball bearing and/or restrict the movement of the wheel. It has to be just tight enough to

prevent any sideways movement of the wheel. The position of the eccentrics is not

important at this stage, adjustments will be done at later stage. See Figure 39- Figure 42.


30 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 39 Extruder carriage and parts required laid out in sequence

Figure 40 Installed extruder carriage leg


31 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 41 Extruder carriage


32 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 42 Extruder carriage

27. After the wheels have been put on the extruder carriage it is time to attach the extruder. For

this you will need:

a) 3pcs M3 45mm bolts

b) Extruder

c) 3pcs M3 washer

To install you need to remove 3pcs extruder bolts from the back. Remove both top ones and

one bottom. The 4th bolt stays to make sure that the motor doesn’t fall apart. After the bolts have

been removed attach the extruder to the carriage as in the Figure 44. Extruder carriage assembly is

finished. The proximity sensor and the turbot fan will be attached at later stage.


33 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 43 Extruder with taken out bolts

Figure 44 Extruder attached to the carriage

28. At this stage you will need to attach the extruder carriage to the X axis. For this you will

need:

a) 2pcs belt wedges

b) 1pcs belt buckle

c) 2pcs M3 25mm bolts

d) 2pcs M3 nuts


34 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 45 Extruder carriage installation

Thread the belt thought the belt opening on the left of the extruder and secure it by

wedging it in. The belt should have been threaded through the motor and idler pulley as per

previous steps. Measure the length of the of the belt and make sure that it is about right

length and thread it thought the belt buckle and secure it with the belt wedge. While

attaching the belt keep the extruder as close to the X axis as possible so that the belt doesn’t

have too much slack. After you secured the belt use the bolts and nuts and attach the belt to

the extruder. Do not tension the belt yet. See Figure 46 to Figure 50.

Figure 46 Attaching belt


35 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 47 Belt buckle installation

Figure 48 Installed extruder


36 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 49 Installed extruder

Figure 50 Extruder carriage belt buckle from close


37 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

29. Mount the extruder onto the X axis rail, see . Install the remaining bottom wheel – this will

secure the extruder. At this stage it might be slightly loose. Using the eccentric spacers

rotate them until the extruder has no play. Do not overdo it as it would increase the friction

and will create additional load for the motor.

Figure 51 Extruder carriage with all 3 wheels

30. Attach the pre-assembled X axis brackets to the rail. Attach the brackets using M4 10mm

bolts. See Figure 52

Figure 52 X axis and brackets


38 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 53 Assembled X axis

31. Mount the assembled X axis onto the Z rails (verticals of the frame). See Figure 54 and Error!

Reference source not found.. At this stage it should be quite loose. In the previous step the

idler end X bracket was fixed in and should not move. The motor end bracket should loose

and you should be able to slide it along the axis. Push the bracket tight so that there is not

play and tighten the M4 bolts. This can be done either pushing it manually or using the

optional bolt and nut setup that you have installed in the previous step, see Figure 55. It

must be tight enough to prevent any play in the axis. After this step you should have X axis

that slides up and down.


39 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 54 X axis motor end

Figure 55 X axis tensioning bolt

32. Install Z axis motors. You will need

a) 2pcs Nema17 motors

b) 2pcs couplings


40 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

c) 8pcs m3 8mm bolts

d) 2pcs Lead screws

e) 2pcs lead screw nuts

f) 2pcs M3 16mm bolts

g) 2pcs M3 nylon nuts

h) 2pcs Lead screw support brackets

i) 2pcs ball bearings

Insert ballbearings into the lead screw support brackets and attach them to the top member

of the frame as in the Figure 56 (use M5 16mm bolts and sliding nuts). Attach the coupling to

the motor. Insert the lead screw and fasten the grub screws (Figure 57). Insert the whole

assembly from the bottom of the printer. Secure the motors with M3 8mm bolts. Make sure

that the right and left leadscew nuts are in about the same height and attach them with M3

16mm bolts and nylon nuts to the X axis brackets (Figure 58). One bolt is enough to keep the

system stable.

Figure 56 Lead screw supports


41 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 57 Nema17 motor with coupling and leadscrew


42 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 58 Leadscrew nut

33. Assemble and install X axis endstops. Follow the same steps as for the Y axis endstop. The

location of the X axis endstop is shown in the Error! Reference source not found.. To adjust

the location of the endstop push the extruder to the left until the nozzle is aligned with the

edge of the bed. Push the endstops up to the wheel until you will hear click. Secure the

endstops so that they don’t move. (Figure 59 to

Figure 59 Endstop with attached cables


43 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 60 Endstop inserted into the bracket

Figure 61 X endstop location

34. In this step you will install proximity sensor. Install the sensor to the right of the extruder.

See Figure 62. After installing loosely by rotating lead screws manually lower the extruder to

the bed (don’t forget to put the glass on). The proximity sensor should be approx. 1.5-2mm

above the surface while the nozzle is touching it.


44 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 62 Auto bed levelling proximity sensor

35. Install Turbo fan to the left of the extruder. Attach the fan to the extruder carriage using

20mm M3 bolt. Install the fan boot as in the Figure 63. The fan orientation was designed in such

a way that it faces the motor and the blade is protected from anything touching it if it would be

exposed.

Figure 63 Turbo fan location

36. Install M3 45mm bolt on the top if the extruder carriage. This will be used to secure the

cabled and prevent them from bending. It goes into the top hole on the extruder carriage.

There are two holes – either can be used (see Figure 64).


45 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5

Figure 64 Location of the cable support bolt

37. Install electronics box in front left corner. Use remaining M5 10mm bolts. See Figure 65.

Figure 65 Electronics box location

38. Make sure that the leadscrews are parallel and tighten bracket bolts.

39. Assembly of the printer is done. Next step will be to connect the cables.

Documents

WOMBOT EXILIS ASSEMBLY GUIDE€¦ · WOMBOT EXILIS ASSEMBLY GUIDE 1 | P a g e V e r s i o n 1 . 3 2 7 / 1 0 / 2 0 1 5 The assembly of the printer is straight forward. The assembly