Where® Thailand December 2015

COOL BANGKOKThe ultimate peak season checklist

Bangkoks Hottest Restaurants

The New Chiang Mai

W W W . W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOKS HOT SPOTS

Thailand PLUSD E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO

COVER_DEC_2015_new.indd 1 11/30/2558 BE 7:03 PM

TOC_Dec_2015_new.indd 2 11/30/2558 BE 7:10 PM

30 EXHIBITIONSThe hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

6 28 NIGHTLIFEFind out where gay Bangkok's party circuit goes out to play, and visit the city's most-talked-about new nightclub.

ALSO INSIDE

4 HOT DATES

38 21 THINGS WE LOVE

The GuideBANGKOK

CONTENTSwhere l THAILAND l DECEMBER 2015

36 NAVIGATEEssential tips on getting around.

34 ATTRACTIONSDon't miss the city's top live cultural shows, from flamboyant cabaret to championship muay Thai fights.

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: [email protected]

facebook.com/wherethailand www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

E-Mails For All Of The Above: [email protected]

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: [email protected]

10

18Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grgoire Glachant

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita ThiraphapongJunior Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Senior Sales Associate Amarit Jinaya

Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

Cover By Wariya Whangwaewklang

BEST OF THE SEASON Your essential guide to high season in Bangkok

DINING

14 THE NEW NORTH Discover all the coolest new openings in Thailand's slow-life capital of coffee culture and craft produce.

10 HOT PLATES The definitive checklist to the Bangkok restaurants you simply can't miss.

AROUND THAILAND

EXPLORING20 CHINATOWN Bangkokians' favorite food institutions sit side by side with hip cocktail bars in the crumbling streets of this heritage neighborhood.

22 SIAM The central shopping district isn't just about big luxury brands; there's also a warren of stores by hot local designers, as well as some wonderful places to eat.

25 DININGFor traditional Thai food with a touch of glamour, visit these stately dining rooms.

32 SHOPS+SERVICESUnearth unique Thai-made gifts to take home to your loved ones.

DECEMBER 2013 I WHERE THAILAND 3

TOC_Dec_2015_new.indd 3 11/30/2558 BE 7:10 PM

4 WHERE THAILAND I DECEMBER 2015

Y whereHOT DATES WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DEC 8

LOOK AND LEARN

The SEA Grammy Award-winning Danish pop band Michael Learns to Rock stop by Bangkok this month to showcase their blend of era-defining soft rock. Since forming back in 1988, these guys have continued to pull in the listeners, racking up over 6 million downloads in 2006 for the hit record Take Me To Your Heart, which you can expect to be played alongside old favorites such as The Actor, Sleep-ing Child and 25 Minutes.

Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Para-gon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8011. BTS Siam. Tickets are B2,500-4000, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com

DEC 13

OUTDOOR CLASSICS

The Concert in the Park series makes a return this month at Lumphini Park (see page 6), where the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra will be perform-ing a wide range of genres such as classical, pop, Thai hits and Broadway, alongside guest soloists and vocalists. The concert takes place every Sun-day, and attendants are encouraged to bring their own picnic blankets and baskets for a relaxing evening of food and music.

Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. Concert take place every Sunday, starting from Dec 13. Perfor-mances start at 5:30pm. Free Admission

DEC 29

ELECTRIC DREAMS

Bangkoks biggest live music venue turns itself over to a one-day EDM party at the end of the year for Output Festival. Headlining is David Guetta, the guy whose dance anthems have just about set the bar for electronic music since the turn of the millenni-um. Hits like When Love Takes Over, Getting Over You and Titanium should guarantee a packed arena, so check for tickets in advance.

Hall 106, Bitec Bangna, 88 Bangna Trat Rd. BTS Bang Na. Tickets are B2,415-2,625, available on www.thai-ticketmajor.com.

DEC 29

YEAR END

Celebrate the New Year with a bang by the Chao Phraya River for great views and beautiful fireworks. Most hotels and restaurants out there will be hosting New Years Eve specials, complete with festive cocktails, large buffet dinners and stage performances ranging from cheer-ful calypso to soulful Chicago. Want to celebrate somewhere closer to land? The clubs around Bangkok will also be hosting New Years Eve parties, complete with live DJs and special drinks.

At most hotels along the Chao Phraya River. Free ferry from Sathon Pier, BTS Saphan Taksin. Visit www.bk-magazine.com for updates about New Years Eve parties around Bangkok.

DEC 13

LUCKY BREAKRenowned jazz, R&B and rock bass player and vocal-ist Nathan East, of contemporary jazz quartet Fourplay, comes to Bangkok for a charity concert this month to cel-ebrate His Majesty the King of Thailands 88th birthday. Dont recognize the name? East is the guy who wrote the infectious bass-line to Daft Punks 2013 hit Get Lucky.

7/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-255-0000. BTS Siam. Tickets are B1,500-3,500, available on www.thai-ticketmajor.com

Hotdate_Dec_2015.indd 4 11/27/2558 BE 7:09 PM

Hotdate_Dec_2015.indd 5 11/27/2558 BE 7:09 PM

1. POP-UP MARKETS Now is the time the city heads outdoors to shop at the host of weekend pop-up mar-kets scheduled for December. The month kicks off with The Great Outdoor Market (Bangkok Docklands, Charoenkrung Rd., www.facebook.com/greatoutdoormarket) on Dec 10-13, where youll find workshops, booths selling arts and crafts and plenty of food trucks and cafes right by the Chao Phraya River. This massive market is fol-lowed by Winter Market Fest 3 on (San Samran Bridge, Sukhumvit Soi 77, www.sansiri.com/wintermarketfest3) on Dec 12-13. Here, expect to find the citys best young start-up shops and cafes, along with a family-friendly atmosphere (though grown-ups can stop at the beer tent for a few draft Singhas, too).

2. AFTERNOON STROLLS IN LUMPHINI PARKEscape the busy streets at central Bangkoks best-known park. This huge expanse of green space in the heart of the city is where locals go to get some exercise without joining a gym, whether its running and lifting weights or yoga and Tai Chi. The lake is also home to some pretty big wild monitor lizards that make for unique photo ops.

3. OUTDOOR SHOPPING Skip the indoor malls to enjoy an open-air shopping experience. Located right by the river, the traditionally-themed Tha Maha-raj (11/1 Maharaj Rd.) is home to a vast ar-ray of boutiques and restaurants as well as a riverside promenade and community gar-den. On the other hand, Asiatique (2194 Charoenkrung Rd.) is home to restaurants and various stalls selling handmade items, souvenirs and fashion accessories. For hard-to-find handicrafts and souvenirs, hit up the charming, colonial-style O.P. Garden (4-6 Charoenkrung Soi 36), which boasts an outdoor courtyard surrounded by a large selection of specialty stores.

4. ROOFTOP BARSNothing is more relaxing than sipping a cock-tail against the beautiful Bangkok skyline after a day exploring the city. And Bangkok is home to more than just a handful of sky-high spots to pick from. We especially like the multi-level rooftop bar Octave (45/F, Marriott Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 57) for its Thai-inspired cocktails and location near the prime party spots of Thonglor and Ekkamai. To hang out with a hip, younger crowd, head over to Above Eleven (33/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11), where Nikkei Peru-vian food meets with a party atmosphere and chic clientele.

ABOVE ELEVEN

19 REASONS WHY WE LOVE BANGKOK IN DECEMBERCooler weather, dry skies and some of the best events of the year make Thailands winter season the best time to be in the country.

O.P. GARDENWINTER MARKET


Y whereWINTER SPECIAL WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

FEATURE_01_Dec_2015_new.indd 6 11/30/2558 BE 7:07 PM

5. ALFRESCO DRINKING AND DININGNot fond of heights? Bangkok is also home to plenty of bars and restaurants that let you drink and dine alfresco without the vertigo. The contemporary Sala Rattana-kosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd.) fo-cuses on classic Thai dining and European bistro food right by the Chao Phraya River. For something more boisterous, check out Badmotel (between Thonglor Soi 15 and 17), which has a sizeable courtyard where young Thonglor hipsters congregate before going to listen to DJs upstairs. For some-thing more retro, check out the balcony at nearby Moose (24 Ekkamai Soi 21), which serves up fiery Thai food and potent cock-tails amid vintage bric-a-brac.

6. STREET-SIDE PAD THAIEnjoy arguably the citys best shop-house pad Thai at Thip Samai (313-315 Mahachai Rd.), a one-dish specialist that is always busy during prime dinner hours. All of their dishes are delicious, but step your pad Thai game up a notch and order the to-die-for pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in an egg crepe), washed down with the freshly-squeezed orange juice sold out front.

7. FIREWORKS BY THE RIVER Celebrate this New Years Eve in style on the Chao Phraya River and watch the beautiful firework displays put on by all the big five-star hotels. Our top spot has got to be the ever-so-sophisticated terrace at Mandarin Oriental (48 Oriental Ave.), where youll also find a lavish New Year buffet. Alternatively, book a dinner cruise like Manohra (ow.ly/V3CHs), that passes through the major riv-erside landmarks.

8. CHRISTMAS AT APPIA In town on the 25th? Go for a festive dinner at Appia (02-261-2056, 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, www.appia-bangkok.com), a charm-ing trattoria specializing in Roman-style family recipes (it just earned a spot on Monocles Restaurant Awards earlier this year). The menu is short but mouthwater-ing, especially when seafood-leaning festive specials take center stage.

9. THE FLAT WHITES AT BANGKOKS COFFEE CULTURE STRONGHOLDSDecember is usually the season when locals swap their iced coffees for a hot flat white. Our go-to spots include Ceresia (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1), which sells single origin and blend-ed coffee from all over the world, Roast (2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13), which blends all its beans in-house, and Ink & Lion Cafe (1/7 Ekkamai Soi 2), which uses local beans from

reliable roasters such as Brave and Pacamara.

10. SHOP-HOUSES TURNED BARSThis year, the city has welcomed a new wave of traditional Chinatown shop-houses converted into hipper-than-hip cocktail and craft beer bars. But these spaces are always pretty tiny, which means much of the crowd congregates on the crumbling, atmospheric streets outside (think Wong Kar Wais In the Mood for Love, which was actually shot on these same streets). Our favorites include El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Cha-roenkrung Rd.), Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.) and Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd.).

11. WONDERFRUITOne of Southeast Asias biggest music and lifestyle festivals takes place in Thailand on Dec 17-20, setting up just a couple of hours outside Bangkok. This years Wonderfruit lineup is headlined by hip-hop artist Yasiin Bey (AKA Mos Def), LA-based producer Daedelus and US synthwave musician Com Truise. But musics just part of the fun. You can also try dishes from some of Bangkoks top restaurants including Gag-gan (see page 14), Rocket and Peppina, while award-winning New York bartender Shingo Gokan also drops by to take care of the boozy business. Buy your tickets at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

12. BEER PARKSDespite not being big fans of the sun, Bangkokians tend to take their rare outdoor season seriously, and love nothing more than a cold beer outside when the weather permits. Three major beer companiesHeineken, Singha and Changhave set up beer parks (or rather, outdoor drinking terraces selling lager towers accompanied by loud music) at the citys major locations. Look out for them at places such as Cen-tralWorld, Emquartier, Siam Paragon and

ROD FAI MARKET 2

THIP SAMAI

TEENS OF THAILAND


Y whereWINTER SPECIAL


FEATURED IN

Pinky TailorMahatun Plaza Arcade,

888/40 Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. BTS Ploenchit (Exit 2). 02-253-6328, 02-253-5055.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm (Sun by appointment). www.pinkytailor.com

"One of the rare tailors that

Bangkokians love to recommend."

_WHERE Thailand

Pinky Tailor.indd 1 10/22/2558 BE 5:11 PM

APPIA

HEINEKEN BEER PARK

ROD FAI MARKET 2

THIP SAMAI

WONDER FRUIT

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

Asiatique. For more information, visit the following links: www.heineken-thai.com, www.facebook.com/SinghabeerTH, www.facebook.com/changbeer.

13. NIGHT BAZAARS Cooler nights are a great excuse to head to one of the buzzing night bazaars to score rare antiques and handmade goods. Our fa-vorites include the tiny but vibrant Rod Fai Market 2 (99 Ratchadapisek Rd.), which features endless street eats, pre-loved clothes and rare vintage home decor pieces. The oriental-meets-Wild-West themed Siam Gypsy Junction (965/8 Bangkok-Nonthaburi Soi 29) carries everything from nostalgic Thai sweets to Harley-Davidson collectibles. While you shop, dont forget to grab a drink at one of the pop-up bars too.

14. ELEPHANT WORLDThree hours from Bangkok, Kanchanaburi province is home to the conservation-focused Elephants World (www.ele-phantsworld.org, 034-514-800) where you can feed, play and even swim with elephants in a conscientious environment where the animals well-being comes first. Call ahead or book online as space is limited.

15. NATURE HIKES Take advantage of nature and go for a hike to the Erawan Falls, also in Kanchanaburi, and dubbed one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand. The end of rainy season means that the 1,500-meter track to the top is at its least muddy but the falls are at their most spectacular, with seven tiers of emerald-green pools to stop and have a dip along the route. If youve got time to stay overnight, we recommend X2 Kanchanaburis brand new floating cabins (ow.ly/V5NlN), or the river rafts at www.thefloathouse-riverkwai.com.


WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM


WAT PHO

FIGHT OF THE GIBBON WAT PHRA KAEW

16. ANCIENT CITY Take a bike ride through Muang Boran, a massive open-air museum, which offers its visitors a one-stop excursion through all of Thailands historic monuments in scaled format, from majestic Lanna tem-ples to golden royal palaces. More than just a Disneyfied version of Thailands her-itage, Muang Boran sculpted each of its exhibits in consultation with the National Museum to ensure historical accuracy. Dont miss Sukhothai Wiharn, Chiang Mais seven-spired pagoda and the Tiger Kings place in Petchaburi.

17. GRAND PALACE Even locals never tire of visiting Thailands most revered buildings, the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (Na Phra Lan Rd.), and tend to go before the turn of the year to pay respects to the Emerald Buddha, Thailands most sacred Buddha image. The Grand Pal-ace served as the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty, which began in 1762.

18. OUTDOOR THAI MASSAGES Located right across from the Grand Palace, Wat Pho (Sanam Chai Rd.) is home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and is cred-ited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temples massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic Thai massages in the city. They also run short courses for anyone whod like to learn for themselves.

19. ZIPLINE TOURSJust a few hours from Bangkok, Flight of the Gibbon (www.treetopasia.com) takes you deep into the Chonburi jungle for amazing wildlife views and an adrenaline rush at the same time. Three kilometers of wire are sus-pended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. The company offers day packages from Bangkok including a nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological programs.

Perched on the 54th floor of the five-star

Centara Grand at CentralWorld, the brand

new semi-alfresco UNO MAS Spanish and

Mediterranean tapas bar and restaurant

has joined the citys dining scene amid

Bangkoks shopping hub.

UNO MAS casual blend of bamboo ceil-

ings, rustic sofas and warm palette of

orange, yellow and marine results in a

space that invites long and lazy meals with

friends that stretch well into the night. Un-

like upstairs wildly popular Red Sky roof-

top bar, theres still a roof over your head,

but guests can enjoy a natural breeze from

the completely open-air front, as well as

those incredible panoramic city views. Pull

up a stool at the bar, which is built around

a vast, two-story-tall walk-in wine cellar

(holding 2,000 different bottles), while for

dinner you can choose between more for-

mal seating beside the cold tapas station

and a terrace that further emphasizes the

outdoor feeling.

Some 40-odd tapas, both hot and cold,

dominate the menu, alongside a selec-

tion of seriously fancy cold cuts like Jo-

selito ham (described as the best Iberian

ham in the world, B790-1,290), live Boston

lobsters (B1,200 for tail sashimi) and big-

name oysters from Fine de Claire to St.

Vaast (B160-190). But the really exciting

stuff happens out on the Josper charcoal

oven, where the chef roasts up Cochini-

llo suckling pig the Spanish way: halved

down the middle, perfectly salted and per-

meated with the flavor of fresh rosemary

(B1,490, serves 2-4 people).

From the tapas menu, dont miss the wild

porcini mushroom croquettes (B190), raw

Galician razor clam ceviche (B490) or

Mock Tuna (B290)cubes of Sangria-

drenched watermelon on ice that perfectly

cut through the fatty profile of some of the

other tapas. The plating might be refined,

with delicately positioned micro leaves

and artfully curated colors making each

dish look like an event, but theres some

serious flavor toothanks in no small part

to the premium produce being used.

To go with all that Spanish food, the chef

and sommelier have created a top-drawer

list of Spanish reds and whites, with a total

36 wines offered by the glass in both 9cl

and 15cl pours. Try the minerally, almost-

Riesling-like 2013 Alberino from Martin Co-

dax (B190/9cl, B320/15cl, B1,600/bottle),

or the La Vendimia 2013 Rioja (B170/9cl,

B280/15cl, B1,400/bottle) for a character-

istically Spanish red. Theres also a menu

of fruit-heavy cocktails at B390 each for

that perfect pre-dinner drink (or to keep

the party going later).

Swing by for the UNO MAS Hour every day

from 4-6pm to enjoy buy-one-get-one-

free on wine by the glass and a compli-

mentary tapas on top of each glass.

To end the night, dont miss their exclu-

sive selection of Spanish cheese, from

heavy hitters like the salty, chewy Man-

chego (B190/50g) to the fatty and more-

ish Murcian goat milk cheese washed in

red wine. Save enough room for a plate

of crisp, unctuous churros and your night

will be complete.

54/F, Centara Grand @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 4pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

ADVERTORIAL

UNO MASThe finest Spanish produce meets incredible city views at Bangkoks new rooftop tapas hangout.

Centara_Uno Mas_Dec 2015_2.indd 22 11/27/2558 BE 4:44 PM


Y whereWINTER SPECIAL WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM


Perched on the 54th floor of the five-star

Centara Grand at CentralWorld, the brand

new semi-alfresco UNO MAS Spanish and

Mediterranean tapas bar and restaurant

has joined the citys dining scene amid

Bangkoks shopping hub.

UNO MAS casual blend of bamboo ceil-

ings, rustic sofas and warm palette of

orange, yellow and marine results in a

space that invites long and lazy meals with

friends that stretch well into the night. Un-

like upstairs wildly popular Red Sky roof-

top bar, theres still a roof over your head,

but guests can enjoy a natural breeze from

the completely open-air front, as well as

those incredible panoramic city views. Pull

up a stool at the bar, which is built around

a vast, two-story-tall walk-in wine cellar

(holding 2,000 different bottles), while for

dinner you can choose between more for-

mal seating beside the cold tapas station

and a terrace that further emphasizes the

outdoor feeling.

Some 40-odd tapas, both hot and cold,

dominate the menu, alongside a selec-

tion of seriously fancy cold cuts like Jo-

selito ham (described as the best Iberian

ham in the world, B790-1,290), live Boston

lobsters (B1,200 for tail sashimi) and big-

name oysters from Fine de Claire to St.

Vaast (B160-190). But the really exciting

stuff happens out on the Josper charcoal

oven, where the chef roasts up Cochini-

llo suckling pig the Spanish way: halved

down the middle, perfectly salted and per-

meated with the flavor of fresh rosemary

(B1,490, serves 2-4 people).

From the tapas menu, dont miss the wild

porcini mushroom croquettes (B190), raw

Galician razor clam ceviche (B490) or

Mock Tuna (B290)cubes of Sangria-

drenched watermelon on ice that perfectly

cut through the fatty profile of some of the

other tapas. The plating might be refined,

with delicately positioned micro leaves

and artfully curated colors making each

dish look like an event, but theres some

serious flavor toothanks in no small part

to the premium produce being used.

To go with all that Spanish food, the chef

and sommelier have created a top-drawer

list of Spanish reds and whites, with a total

36 wines offered by the glass in both 9cl

and 15cl pours. Try the minerally, almost-

Riesling-like 2013 Alberino from Martin Co-

dax (B190/9cl, B320/15cl, B1,600/bottle),

or the La Vendimia 2013 Rioja (B170/9cl,

B280/15cl, B1,400/bottle) for a character-

istically Spanish red. Theres also a menu

of fruit-heavy cocktails at B390 each for

that perfect pre-dinner drink (or to keep

the party going later).

Swing by for the UNO MAS Hour every day

from 4-6pm to enjoy buy-one-get-one-

free on wine by the glass and a compli-

mentary tapas on top of each glass.

To end the night, dont miss their exclu-

sive selection of Spanish cheese, from

heavy hitters like the salty, chewy Man-

chego (B190/50g) to the fatty and more-

ish Murcian goat milk cheese washed in

red wine. Save enough room for a plate

of crisp, unctuous churros and your night

will be complete.

54/F, Centara Grand @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 4pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom

ADVERTORIAL

UNO MASThe finest Spanish produce meets incredible city views at Bangkoks new rooftop tapas hangout.

Centara_Uno Mas_Dec 2015_2.indd 22 11/27/2558 BE 4:44 PMFEATURE_01_Dec_2015_new.indd 11 11/30/2558 BE 7:09 PM

HOT PLATESFrom celebrity chefs to local favorites, here is our definitive checklist to Bangkoks best restaurants.

THAI FINE DININGBENJARONG The food at this signature Thai restaurant for

one of Bangkoks old-guard hotels was given a

total revamp by a Danish chef who worked with

Copenhagens Michelin-star Thai restaurant

Kiin Kiin. Benjarongs cuisine is devoutly Thai

as far as flavors go, but incorporates European

slow-cooking methods, and is plated with con-

siderate modern touches. The result is highly

refined but also satisfyingly authentic. For the

best experience, we recommend opting for one

of the seasonal tasting menus.

Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000#2345. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. BTS Sala Daeng

NAHM David Thompson, who formerly held a Michelin

Star in London, serves fiery, multi-course set

menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors

and plenty of choice. We use the word course

loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style din-

ing. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork

and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly bal-

anced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swim-

mer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai

rice noodles).

Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

BO.LAN Chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan

Jones (who both formerly worked at David

Thompsons London Thai restaurant, Nahm)

make all their Thai food from scratch, includ-

ing the curry pastes, using only the best ingre-

dients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with a

few modern plating touches, has earned them

global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan

Balance, a degustation menu regularly chang-

ing to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lans stylish

house prominently features dark wood and ceil-

ing covered with kradong (flat baskets).

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm

BENJARONG

BO.LANBO.LAN

NAHM


Y whereDINING

Feature_02_Dec_2015.indd 12 11/27/2558 BE 7:05 PM

ERR

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

SOMTUM DER

ERR

HIP THAIERR The aforementioned chefs Duangporn and Dylan

Jones have gone for a casual and raw look in this

shop-house restaurant near the river. It focuses

on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go

well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche,

naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured

pork) and the deep-fried whole-chicken skin with

homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar boasts plenty

of cocktails made with Thai spirits.

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORNThe bar dishes out very potent (double pours,

actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun

Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup

and egg white) while the kitchen serves up per-

fectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng

hang lay (Burmese pork belly curry) and pad

krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning

combo has seduced those seeking authentic food

made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in

a comfortable environment.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight

SOMTUM DER Not far from the bustle of Silom Road, this little

cafe brings typical street food into a modern shop-

house setting. Whats more, its sister branch in

New York just won a Michelin Star. The menu

focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad)

and other classic Northeastern dishes. with par-

ticularly authentic flavors. Do try the pork skew-

ers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful

deep-fried minced pork balls. Their martinis are

also a highlight.

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. MRT Silom. Open daily 11am-2pm, 4:30-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng




LATELIER DE JOL ROBUCHON

QUINCE

SMOKIN PUG EAT ME

INTERNATIONAL FINE DININGGAGGAN After building a solid foundation in Indian and

Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan

Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of

El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the

world. His eponymous restaurant serving molec-

ular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia 50 Best

Restaurants 2015 and 10th in the world. Expect

the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehy-

dration and more alongside traditional dishes of

Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 6pm-midnight

LATELIER DE JOL ROBUCHON Borrowing the same concepts from all LAtelier

branches, this elegant red and black space has

diners seated around a large open kitchen, a for-

mat more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic

dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmis-

takebly French, though free range quail stuffed

with foie gras and potato pure and with all the

finesse youd expect from Joel Robuchon, the

chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm

EAT ME Ranked as the 25th of Asias 50 Best Restau-

rants, Chef Tim Butlers kitchen pulls off bold

combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado,

yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad

is elevated to new heights by the addition of red

papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The de-

cor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and

natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists.

The service is diligent and sweet, and the cock-

tails are perfection.

1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am

CASUAL INTERNATIONALPEPPINA Wanting to make the most authentic Nea-

politan pizza in Bangkok, chef Paolo Vitaletti

(of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just

around the corner) ordered his massive pizza

oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapoli-

tan baker with five years experience just to

make the dough. The result is simply some of

the best Italian pizza in town. But Peppina also

serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold

cuts and hearty grilled meats.

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight

SMOKIN PUG The brainchild of the American barbecue afi-

cionados behind the 10-year-old Lazy Pug in

Chengdu, China, specializes in the low-and-

slow smoking technique. The result is tender,

aromatic meats like smoked buffalo wings,

pulled pork (in sandwiches and chili) and full

racks of baby back ribs. There are also colorful

Tex-Mex dishes like smoked brisket quesadilla

and citrus shrimp tacos. Dont miss the equally

smoky bourbon cocktails, either.

88 Surawong Rd., 083-029-7598. MRT Sam Yan. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

QUINCE Quince serves up casual European food thats

light, fresh and bright (meaning local and

seasonal) in portions that encourage sharing

and eschew the formality of a traditional

three-course dinner. Perfectly paired with the

Mediterranean flavors, the faux-vintage bras-

serie meets idyllic country home atmosphere

draws a crowd of beautiful people. Thanks

to the very soild wine and cocktails menus,

Quince is the kind of place that will make you

want to stick around until late.

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Mon-Fri 11-1am; Sat-Sun 10:30-1am


Y whereDINING WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM


COFFEE CULTURE

RISTR8TO LABThe original Doppio Ristr8to cafes claim to fame was head barista, Arnon Thitiprasert, who ranked sixth at the 2011 World Latte Art Championship. At this new laboratory-style spin-off cafe, he showcases all the skills hes learned from various coffee-making competitions and research trips. Expect to see cult drinks from the worlds coffee-making hubs like Melbourne and San Francisco, as well as boozy offer-ings such as the Ethiopian Monkey (hot mocha and creme the menthe) served in skull-shaped glasses. Be sure to stop by on a Sunday, when 16 different beans are roasted every week. Between Nimmanhemin Soi 3 and 5, 053-215-278. Open Mon, Wed-Fri 7am-6pm

ONE DAY DRIPTucked in a small alleyway close to the citys much-loved North Gate Jazz establish-ment, this cool micro-cafe is pretty easy to miss at first glance, resembling a spruced-up street stall with one wooden table and small bar. Right now, theyre solely focused on single-origin brews made from carefully sourced local and international beans, but a house blend is in the works. Dont hesi-tate to ask to smell or sample the beans prior to ordering, as this is actually encour-aged by the owners. Apart from coffee, they also serve pastries accompanied by jam made from local seasonal fruits such as strawberry and pineapple. Sriphum Soi 4, 090-127-4560. Open daily 9am-8pm

ARTSY OPENINGS

GALLERY KANG WATThis rustic, home-style gallery hosts monthly exhibitions that showcase the work of emerging local artists. It has so far exhibited a series of watercolors by Taned Marneesri and hosted one photo exhibition by emerging photographer Apichai Wang-tragul. Apart from the exhibition space, they also sell handmade goods such as post-cards, notebooks and ceramics. Opposite Wat Ram Poeng Rd., 095-691-0888. Open daily 10am-6pm

ARTTITUDE GALLERYTucked between Nimmanhaemin soi 3 and 5, Arttitude Gallery not only serves coffee, but also specializes in sugar-free, 100-percent pure cold-pressed juices. And because they are health-focused folks, there isnt any al-cohol. The loft-style venue features plenty of wood and plants for a homey, airy feel. Dont forget to check upstairs, where the owner sometimes hosts art exhibitions.Nimmanhemin Soi 5, 052-002-202. Open daily 9am-6pm

THAPAE EASTWith its raw, barn-like appeal, this bare-brick building is a welcome new addition to Chiang Mais art scene, hosting everything from live ex-perimental music to film screenings and poetry nights. The venue also serves beer and fuss-free cocktails, as well as light finger food. Be sure to check their Facebook page for the weekly sched-ule and any performance updates. 88 Thapae Rd., 081-765-5246. Opening hours vary depnding on event schedule, available on www.face-book.com/ThapaeEast

CHIANG MAI The best new shops, cafes and galleries in the Lana Capital.

GALLERY KANG WAT

RISTR8TO LAB ARTTITUDE GALLERY

GRAPH TABLE


Y whereAROUND THAILAND

AROUND_THAILAND_1_Dec_2015.indd 16 11/27/2558 BE 6:24 PM

DINING

GRAPH TABLEThis restaurant offshoot of a popular coffee shop welcomes you with a dark wooden fa-cade, window boxes and hanging plants. The kitchen serves mostly fresh homemade Ital-ian cuisine made with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from Lamphun. For breakfast expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad), Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast) and Moon-muang (poached egg on toast with baked beans and grilled mushroom). Salads and pizzas round out the menu. Moonmuang Soi 6, 086-567-3330. Open daily 9am-6pm

MEENA This semi-outdoor Thai restaurant adds a new twist to Thai and Asian dishes by substituting some of their staple ingre-dients with rice. There are five different types of rice to choose from, ranging from blue butterfly pea-infused grains to dark red organic rice berries. Dishes not to miss include the tempura shrimp, which is battered in rice instead of breadcrumbs, and the rice-based roti and ice cream for something sweet. Baan Mon Mu 2, Soi 11, 087-177-0253. Open Mon-Tue; Thu-Sun 10am-5pm

NEW BARS

THE SERVICE 1921 RESTAURANT AND BAR The bar sits in a restored colonial mansion that formerly served as the British Consul-ate of Chiang Mai. Reimagined as a hidden stronghold of the British governments se-cret intelligence service, the venue is filled with fictitious spy paraphernalia, vintage lamps and other artifacts from the days of British teak logging interests up North, alongside colonial-style cabinets, leather armchairs and couches. The kitchen spe-cializes in contemporary Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, while the bar focuses on cocktails with Asian twists. Theres also a separate whiskey and cigar lounge.123 Charoenprathet Rd., 053-253-333. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-1am

SHOPPING

PLOEN RUDEE NIGHT MARKET At this favorite of Chiang Mais student crowd, youll find vendors selling handmade wares, accessories and clothing along with a large country-style food zone which hosts food trucks and pop-ups selling sushi, pizza, burgers and more. The venue also hosts live music performances. Chan Klang Rd., 052-001-575. Open daily 4pm-midnight

KAD FARANG MALLFor something more traditional, this large Lanna-style outdoor mall is home to various local boutiques, salons, restaurants, sports and music facilities as well as an outlet mall housing stores ranging from clothing to elec-tronic goods. 225 Moo 13, Chiang Mai-Hod Rd., 053-430-552. Open 24 hrs

Gao LinprasertEducation Consultant

Coffee is great almost everywhere in Chiang Mai, but Im a regular at My Secret Cafe in Town (175 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 081-499-9911). The

ambience is very laid-back, the coffee is great, and as a plus they serve some of the most delec-table desserts. When Im there, Ill usually go for a hot Americano or latte. When it comes to lunch and dinner, you can never go wrong with Baan Suan Silp Cafe (25 Moo 3, Sanpheesuea, 080-925-2878). Its artsy vibe nicely complements the Northern slow life and their inventive menu is also very tasty. There are many awesome places to grab a drink on Nimmanhemin Road that are all walking distance from one another, but if you dont feel like hanging out with a younger crowd, a good choice is The Service 1921 Restaurant and Bar (see above) for some serious cocktails in a beautiful setting.

LOCAL FAVORITES Away from all the new openings, here are the old places locals stay fiercely loyal to:



AROUND_THAILAND_1_Dec_2015.indd 17 11/27/2558 BE 6:24 PM


whereExploringDECEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES20 CHINATOWN 22 SIAM

CHINATOWNChinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. Thats all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

TEP BAR

The Exploring Landing_Dec_2015_new.indd 18 11/30/2558 BE 7:09 PM


The Exploring Landing_Dec_2015_new.indd 19 11/30/2558 BE 7:09 PM

CHINATOWN


EXPLORING

SEE & DOAlthough many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm) details the history of Chinese mi-gration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm) is not to be missed, home to the

worlds biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, youll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly expe-rience, head to the colorful old Chinese

Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where youll be welcomed with your camera at the readyso long as you wear appro-priate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chi-nese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist God-dess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they dont allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!2 2ND YARD Opened in consultation with the guys behind one of Bangkoks best-loved burger joints (Escapade Burgers and Shakes, 112 Phra Arthit Rd.), this deep, one-unit shop-house whips up big-portioned sandwiches with fillings like grilled pork neck with bacon and apple sauce. The drinks list is focused mainly on juice-based smoothies and black tea, though they still have a few rotating beers. Choose to sit either at the bar with the kitchen crew or in the more proper dining area out back.763 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-898-8070. Open daily 4-11pm

WAT TRIAMMIT

WAT MANGKHON KAMALAWAT

!7 Guay Tiew Kua GaiThis gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!8 Pa Jin Cockle Soi TexasLocated in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specializing in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!9 Kuay Jub Nai EkThis place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and in-testines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

@0 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

Y CHINATOWNS TOP STREET-FOOD STALLS

T&K SEAFOOD

Exploring_01_Dec_2015_China Town_new.indd 20 11/30/2558 BE 7:05 PM

CHINATOWN


EXPLORING

EAT Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is a venerable institution in Yaowarats rich dining scenewhich is to say its some of the best Chinese food youll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, dont be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Joks Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. Dining here is done traditional Chi-nese-style, so come with a big enough party to fill one of the large round ta-bles. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian commu-nity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 Chak-kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother styleplenty of cream and ghee. And be sure to stock up on traditional Indi-an sweets on your way out. The areas old-school tea and coffee houses are also not to be missed. The 87-year-old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee laced with condensed milk along-side charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices.

!1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075) meanwhile, special-izes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region.

DRINKUntil recently, Chinatown was nev-er on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been convert-ing old shop-houses, both in China-town and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoen-krung Rd., 086,-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, clas-sic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The own-er lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sand-wiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner youll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in town, !3 Teens

of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoen-krung Rd., 081-443-3784), where a collection of arts, party organizers and phtographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !4 Bar 23 (92 Soi Nana, Charoenk-rung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !5Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see page 10). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !6 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

Song

Saw

at Rd

.

Mit P

han

Rd.

Mit P

han R

d.

Tri Mit Rd

.

Maitri Chit Rd.

Maitri Chit Rd.

Mangkon Rd.

Luang Rd.

Luang Rd.

Wor

acha

k Rd

.

Yuko

l 2 R

d.

Phla

p Ph

la Ch

ai Rd

.

Suap

a Rd.

Maha

Cha

k Rd.

Chak

rawat

Rd.

Mah

a Ch

ai R

d.

Khao Lam

Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Sanam Chai Rd.

Phahurat Rd.

Tri P

het R

d.

Ban

Mo

Rd.

Arun Amarin Rd.

Itsaraphap Rd.

Praja

dhipo

k Rd.

Somdet Chao Phraya Rd.

Maha Rat Rd.

Yaowarat Rd.

Song Wat Rd.

Phad

ung D

ao R

d.

Phat Sai Rd.

Rach

awon

gse R

d.

Plae

ng N

am R

d.

Mang

kon R

d.

Chao Phraya River

To MRT

Hua Lamphong u

Dindaeng Pier

Rachawongse Pier

Rajinee Pier

KaniayanamitPier

PakKhlong

Talat Pier

MemorialBridge

Pier

12

34

5

6

8

7

!0

!1

!2 !3

!5

!4

!6

!7

!9 !8@0

9

EL CHIRINGUITO

TEENS OF THAILAND

GETTING THEREReaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and youll be at the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

DOUBLE DOGS

1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center2 Wat Triammit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat4 Li Thi Miew5 Guan Yin Shrine6 Tang Toh Kang7 Yim Yim8 Joks Kitchen 9 Royal India!0 Eiah-Sae!1 Double Dogs !2 El Chiringuito!3 Teens of Thailand !4 Bar 23!5 Tep Bar!6 Grand China Hotel!7 Guy Tiew Kua Gai!8 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas !9 Kuay Jub Nai Ek @0 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood

Exploring_01_Dec_2015_China Town_new.indd 21 11/30/2558 BE 7:05 PM

SIAM


EXPLORING

Siam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkoks biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Heres how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

SHOPThe actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is di-vided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. Its like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 2 Dancing Riot (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-4686) and dapper mens shoe spe-cialist 4 Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkoks fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its graduating class, where the very best

local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Grey-hound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoiror let the multi-label stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is

its lavish VIP cinema and world class Sea Life aquarium. 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while youll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The big-gest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratcha-damri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town. If youre in the market for elec-tronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000) is a mecca for cam-eras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

NEW 5 A-VERY-WEARDiscover some of Asias coolest up-and-coming designers in this minuscule multi-label store. Highlights include Singaporean streetwear label Mash-Up, who have collaborated with interna-tional brands like Uniqlo, Topshop and Lomography, and Korean womenswear brand Rocket x Lunch, who were recently featured in Whos Next 2015 in Paris. In fact, Korean brands make up almost half the selection in store, with names like Fleamadonna, Low Classic, menswear special-ists Drink Beer Save Water and accessories brand Minuit Moins Sept. 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1. 02-658-0000. BTS Siam

Siams Top 3 Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin

The Bangkokian sister of Copenha-gens molecular gastronomy res-taurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompsons London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open dailynoon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

8 Taling Pling

This restaurant specializes in fuss-free Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combina-tion of salty and mildly spicy.

3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!9 Thompson Bar & Restaurant

Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional homes refined at-mosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spagetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper.

6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601. Open daily 10:30 am-6pm

Y HOT SPOTS

SIAM CENTER

MBK

Exploring_02_Dec_2015_Siam_new.indd 22 11/30/2558 BE 7:06 PM

SIAM


EXPLORING

EATFrom khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the sec-ond floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-251-2861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-664-4510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880) is the areas most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legend-ary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square

Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

DRINKSiam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here youll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02-646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152)another popular cocktail spot. Cut through CentralWorld and youll be rewarded with incredible views at

8 Red Sky Bar (02-100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

SEE AND DO

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collec-tion of sculptures, paintings and por-celain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cul-tural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630) where youll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established. Inside youll also find the independent book store Bookmoby and Gallery Drip

Cafeboth well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and Central-World on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the coun-tryside transplanted to the city. Bang-koks uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine rep-resents Phra Phrom, Thailands repre-sentative of the Hindu god of creation. Here youll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BAANYING CAFE & MEAL

ERAWAN SHRINE

Chit Lom Station

Ratc

hada

mri

Stat

ion

Siam Station

Nation Stadium StationRama 1 Rd.

Henr

i Dun

at R

d.

Phay

a Th

ai R

d.

Soi 1

Soi 2

Soi 3

Soi 4

Soi 5

Soi 6

Soi 7

Soi 8So

i 9

Soi 1

0

Soi 1

1

Ratc

hada

mri

Rd.

Phetchaburi Rd.

Klong San Sab

7

8

65

4 3

2 1

9

!0

!1

!2!3

!4

!5

!7

!6

!9!8

1 Issue2 Dancing Riot3 WWA4 Mango Mojito5 Siam Center6 Siam Paragon7 Gaysorn Plaza8 CentralWorld/Groove/Centara- Uno Mas- Taling Pling- Din Tai Fung- HOBS- 1881 by Water Library- Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo- Red Sky9 MBK!0 Baanying Cafe and Meal (Somkit Branch)!1 Somtam Nua!2 Seefah!3 Baan Khun Mae!4 Jim Thompson House!5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center!6 Patumwanaram Temple!7 Erawan Shrine!8 Sra Bua!9 Thompson Bar & Restaurant

Exploring_02_Dec_2015_Siam_new.indd 23 11/30/2558 BE 7:07 PM

ThewhereGuideDECEMBER 2015 | BANGKOK


NEW THE COURTYARD One of the hottest spots in town right now is this century-old refurbished man-sion next door to W Bangkok hotel. Out on its central courtyard, youll find much of the buildings original charm, prettily decked out with chic furniture that sticks to the overall vintage yellow and brown hues. The comforting, yet delicate dish-es are whipped up by Turkish chef Fatih Tutak, but its their afternoon tea, which lets you go crazy with refreshing sorbet, scones, sandwiches and other delica-cies with a choice of TWG tea, thats the main highlight.The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi

BANGKOKS BEST VENUES25 DINING

28 NIGHTLIFE

30 ART

32 SHOPPING

34 ATTRACTIONS

36 NAVIGATE

The guide_Dec_2015.indd 24 11/27/2558 BE 7:22 PM

DINING Y


GUIDE

BUSSARACUM The setting and presentation of the food at this classic Thai fine-dining restaurant

are exquisite. Servers in traditional Thai costume and live khim performances complete the old-fash-ioned dining experience (it claims to be Bangkoks first upscale Thai restaurant), as do royal cuisine touches like ornate fruit and vegetable carving. Dont miss the rare, traditional recipes like rhoom (minced pork and shrimp wrapped with egg net), luke tao (shrimp-stuffed mushrooms) and saengwa (grilled prawn salad with deep-fried catfish).

1 Si Wiang Rd., 02-266-6312/-6. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

BLUE ELEPHANT The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stun-

ning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic fla-vor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

RUEN URAI This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning

outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and tur-meric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like theyre made from scratch. Were particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sauteed with spicy curry and herbs.

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng

NEW UPSTAIRS AT MIKKELLERCraft beer house Mikkeller pulls in a crowd devoted to tasting the finest hops from around the world in a laidback setting. But up on the second story of this leafy, con-verted family home youll find something quite different: a nine-course beer-pairing experience helmed by a former sous chef at Chicagos three-Michelin-star Grace res-taurant. He describes his food as progres-sive American, meaning a mix-and-match of techniques and ingredients unboundby ge-ography. Its only open Fri-Sat dinner time, and 3-4 days notice is recommended.

26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891. Open Fri-Sat 6:30-10:30pm

1

2

3

Hot Spots GORGEOUS THAI RESTAURANTS

BUSSARACUM

BLUE ELEPHANT

RUEN URAI

Supanniga Eating RoomThis is one of the best Thai restaurants in town. Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owners grandmother used to cookThai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the fam-ily now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing lo-cal ingredients.

160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Dinning_Dec_2015_new.indd 25 11/30/2558 BE 7:04 PM

PH

OT

O C

RE

DIT

GO

ES

HE

RE

DINING HONG KONGY

26 WHERE THAILAND I DECEMBER 2011 I www.wheretraveler.com

THEO MIOThe first foreign outpost for British chef Theo Randall. G/F, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Plo-enchit Rd., 02-656-0444

ROSEMARY BY MADAME TUANGThis celebrity chef opening spotlights Euro-pean comfort food.

G/F, The Taste, Thonglor Soi 11, 02-712-5998

M KRUBThe mastermind behind Chef Man serves up a modernized take on Chinese cuisine.

2/F, Mahanakhon Cube, 96 Narathiwas Rd., 02-019-8105. BTS Chong Nonsi

KANG BAN PHEOne of Rayongs, and indeed Thailands, best-known seafood sources, has brought its signature mantis shrimp to Bangkok.

20-20/1 Ruamrudee Village, Soi Ruam Rudi, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-019-0588. BTS Phloen Chit

TASTE OF THE CITY

Recent Openings

Advertise your business

with us

starting from B5,000

Credit card payment accepted.

Email [email protected] or

call 026249601


DINING Y


GUIDE

STREETSIDE FAVORITES

Pad Thai Thip SamaiAlso known as Pad Thai Pratu Phee, this renowned one-dish specialist whips up some of the best pad Thai in town, and is of course, always busy so ex-pect to wait for a table during prime dinner hours. Try their most popular dish, the pad Thai hor khai goong (shrimp pad Thai wrapped in a thin egg crepe), washed down with a freshly-squeezed or-ange juice sold out front. Prices may be higher than your average shop-house eatery, but keep in mind your pad Thai will come with a generous serving of plump shrimp.

313-315 Mahachai Rd., Open Tue-Sun 5pm-2am

Nai Mong Hoi Nang Thod A favorite of David Thompson, the mastermind behind the globally-renowned Nahm (see page 8), this third-generation oyster specialist only serves one dish and has been in business for over 40 years. Their delicious oyster omelets are fried on an old-school wok, along with a generous amounts of pork fat and tapioca flower to make for a rich, crispy and flavorful dish.

545 Plubpachai Rd., Open Mon-Wed 11am-9:30pm

Chote ChittrThis longstanding shop-house has been serving Thai dishes since the Rama V era. Try their mee krob, which consists of crunchy vermicelli noodles topped with a tamarind-based sweet, spicy and sour sauce served with chicken, shrimp and tofu. Also dont miss their yum makua (spicy eggplant salad), washed down with a few shots of ya dong (traditional Thai herbal liquor).

146 Prang Puthon Rd., Open daily noon-9pm

SALA RIM NAAM The signature Thai restaurant of Bang-koks most pedigreed hotel serves mild

yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. Its set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for alfresco din-ing. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight

CHON The luxurious Siam Hotel is a destina-tion in itself, and its signature restau-

rant, Chon, is no less beautiful than the rest of this sprawling, Art Deco-themed riverside mansion. The teak building was brought down river to Bangkok from Ayutthaya, Thailands ancient capital, and is filled with antique Buddhas and elegant pieces of furniture. The food is simple and authentic, with dishes that represent Thailands various culinary regions, from the curries of Chiang Mai to papaya salads of Isaan.

The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm. Ferry available from Taksin Pier (book ahead). BTS Saphan Taksin

SALA RIM NAAM

CHON

4

5


NIGHTLIFEY


GUIDE

DJ STATIONThe grand dame of gay clubbing just never seems to get old. Packed to the

point of making dancing near impossible on week-ends, DJ Station has come to define Thailands gay nightlife for many visitors. The place is three stories tall. Most of the dancing takes place on the ground, with some guys going shirtless on stage. On the second floor, things are noticeably more cruise-y and boozy. As for the decor, the dim lighting hides a pretty run-down and barebones setup.

Silom Soi 2, 02-266-4029. Open daily 10pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

THE STRANGER BAR AND LOUNGETucked inside the vibrant Silom Soi 4,

this two-story sit-down bar boasts fun-themed cocktails and attracts a modern, younger gay crowd. Although small in size, the bar is big in per-sonality, with its glittery decor, feisty drink menu and sassy beats.

Silom Soi 4, 084-711-6477. Open daily 5:30pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

SUNDAYS AT MAGGIE CHOOSEvoking colonial outposts, the Pax Britan-

nica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium dens and steamy exoticism, this bewitching bar hosts its weekly gay night every Sunday when topless hunks with rock-hard six packs replace the beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses on the swings. Apart from sipping cocktails and mingling with the crowd, expect to laugh all night long when local drag sensation Pangina Heals takes the stage.

U/F, Novotel Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Gay nights are every Sunday 7:30pm-2am.

FAKE CLUBThis legendary gay club made a come-back at the beginning of the year after its

original venue closed down. This new rendition has undergone a mega facelift to include a huge dance floor and world-class audio equipment. Enter the towering, neon-lit entrance and youll be greeted with opulent decor and tacky disco balls. The club has a rotating entertainment lineup that includes a live house band, one-off gigs, male model stage shows and special performances by local artists.

222/32, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 091-724-2999. Open daily 9pm-2am

SOI TWILIGHT Located just off of Surawong Road, this notorious street is filled with gay bars

and restaurants, the most popular arguably being Classic Boys Club, a go-go bar known for their syn-cronized swimming shows held in a large tank at 11:30pm and midnight on Sundays. Upon entering the brightly-lit street, youll be swarmed by pro-moters trying to persuade you to enter their bars with drink specials, so be sure to ask to see the place first, before making any promises.

Between Surawong and Rama 4 Rd., bars usually open at 7:30 pm. MRT Silom

NEW SING SING Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (whose other bars like Mag-gie Choos, below, are also well worth a visit) expresses his Chinoiserie fetish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai thats all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate met-al screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Suttons trademark warren of se-cret passages leading to single-table balco-nies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Suttons own gin made here in Bangkok.

Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888. Open daily 8pm-2am. BTS Phrom Phong

1

2

3

4

Hot Spots GAY BARS

Y SPOTLIGHT

Havana Social Going for a 40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in gin is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites. Find the telephone booth labeled Tele-fono, then call the place (on your modern-day smartphone) for the nights unique entry code.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

DJ STATION

FAKE CLUB

5

THE YEARS

BIGGEST FULL MOON

DEC 25 & 31 2015

Cactus Bar is the first stop to greet every Full Moon partygoer. On both nights, expect epic fire shows courtesy of Thailands skilled fire performers, as well as shows from the Sexy Leo Dancers. Best of all, you can enjoy promos on Leo beer at B80 all night long and Singha at B90.

No one does it better than Paradise when it comes to the original Full Moon experience. Party with the best local DJs, breathtaking fire shows and performances from fancy dancers. Whats more, you can find bottles of Leo for just B50 the whole night through.

For more information please visit

ADVERTORIAL

JOIN THE FESTIVE SEASONS BIGGEST PARTIES ON KOH PHANGAN!

To leave you with something to remember the nights, Leo will also be giving out free tank tops for everyone as a special Christmas treat at both venues!

Leo Full Moon, Cactus Bar, Sep 27, 2015 Leo Full Moon, Cactus Bar, Aug 1, 2015

Leo Full Moon, Paradise, Sep 27, 2015

Leo Full Moon, Cactus Bar, Aug 1, 2015



sponsored by

Leomoon_Dec_1.indd 1 11/27/2558 BE 4:45 PMNightlife_Dec_2015_1.indd 28 11/27/2558 BE 7:14 PM

THE YEARS

BIGGEST FULL MOON

DEC 25 & 31 2015

Cactus Bar is the first stop to greet every Full Moon partygoer. On both nights, expect epic fire shows courtesy of Thailands skilled fire performers, as well as shows from the Sexy Leo Dancers. Best of all, you can enjoy promos on Leo beer at B80 all night long and Singha at B90.

No one does it better than Paradise when it comes to the original Full Moon experience. Party with the best local DJs, breathtaking fire shows and performances from fancy dancers. Whats more, you can find bottles of Leo for just B50 the whole night through.

For more information please visit

ADVERTORIAL

JOIN THE FESTIVE SEASONS BIGGEST PARTIES ON KOH PHANGAN!

To leave you with something to remember the nights, Leo will also be giving out free tank tops for everyone as a special Christmas treat at both venues!

Leo Full Moon, Cactus Bar, Sep 27, 2015 Leo Full Moon, Cactus Bar, Aug 1, 2015

Leo Full Moon, Paradise, Sep 27, 2015




sponsored by

Leomoon_Dec_1.indd 1 11/27/2558 BE 4:45 PMNightlife_Dec_2015_1.indd 29 11/27/2558 BE 7:14 PM

ARTY


GUIDE

BEND/ALTERED SPACEA dual exhibition by Cory Williams and Allyson Ansusinha. Bend showcases the

relationships between drawings, sculptures and paintings by bending metal shapes into different forms, while Altered Space uses various forms of string to translate the works from Bend into alter-nate forms.

Dec 19-Dec 30. Bridge, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-986-9421. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 10am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

DUNBREAKABLE TEAPOTSThai ceramic artist Surojana Sethabutra makes some of the most extraordinary pot-

tery pieces in the country. This collection takes inspiration from the way moonlight changes throughout the evening.

Through Jan 16, 2016. Bangkok University Gallery, 2-4/F, Bangkok University International College Building 7, 119 Rama 4 Rd., 02-350-3626. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm

BEAUTIFUL MYTHContemporary artist Jamon Nimnark showcases oil paintings depicting the

role of women in modern society influenced by the Renaissance period.

Through Jan 10, 2016. S.A.C. Subhashok, Sukhum-vit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sat 10am-5:30pm, Sun 12-6pm

TRAVERSEFor his latest site-specific work, break-through sculptor Jedsada Tangtrakul-

wong has turned the upstairs of this popular art bar and gallery into two covered passageways out of materials recycled from other artworks.

Through Dec 3. WTF Bar & Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

HAPPY VASE This exhibition showcases a collection of over 50 rare vases, dishes, plates, bowls and

sculptures from the 50s-60s from France, Hungary and Spain, as well as a series of ceramic work from Japan.

Through Jan 3, 2016. Pandora Art Gallery, 10/4 Convent Rd., 02-635-5353. Open daily 11am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

FOR THE GOODThis exhibition showcases a series of jewelry that symbolizes the tension be-

tween the past and an increasingly commercial and fast-paced present.

Through Dec 26, ATTA Gallery, 2-6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-238-6422. Open Tue-Sat 1-7:30pm; Sat 2-6pm

Bangkok City City Gallery This massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumphini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether its paintings, video installations or live performances. Its opening exhibition, for which it set up a maze of tunnels to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, was an instant smash. The owners are young and rooted in Bangkoks art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open daily 2pm-8pm. MRT Lumphini

Y SPOTLIGHT

NEW NATIONAL MUSEUMThe charming front hall of the National Museum has recently undergone a stun-ning renovation to showcase the museum's most beautiful Buddhist treasures in a single room. Formerly the viceroy's palace, the front hall itself is highlighted by a monu-mental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculp-tures. You'll also find carefully-kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

4 Na Phrathat Rd., 02-224-1333. Open Wed-Sun and national holidays 9am-4pm

1

2

3

4

5

6Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

D'UNBRAKEABLE TEAPOTS

BEAUTIFUL MYTH

Art_Dec_2015_new.indd 30 11/30/2558 BE 7:01 PM

ART+ ATTRACTIONS Y

APRIL 2015 I WHERE THAILAND 31

GUIDE

Art_Dec_2015_new.indd 31 11/30/2558 BE 7:01 PM

SHOPS+SERVICESY


BANGKOK

ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander

Lamonts beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to sting-ray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamonts employ, ensuring that each piece of furni-ture is both unique and meaningful.

Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFTSTUDIO Launched back in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art &

Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok pot-ters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes, like the all-white paint used on the petite Bonsai-friendly flowerpot. The products range from tableware to home decor items like vases, animal sculpture and frames.

Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1), Kam-phaeng Phet Rd., 02-678-3877. Open Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet

JIM THOMPSON The main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and acces-

sories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pil-lowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within the walking distance of BTS National Sta-dium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

FOUND BY TRIMODE Trimodes lead jewelry designer traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help

contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thai-land. The brand recently won the big prize at the Asia Tal-ents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.

Room 327-330, 3/F, The Wonder Room at Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 0-2658-1098. Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

OTOP HERITAGE One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product

(OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thou-sand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home dec-orative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

ANOTHER STORY This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fash-ion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Y SPOTLIGHT

1

3

4

5Hot Spots BEST THAI-MADE GIFTS

JIM THOMPSON

YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO

2

NEW GOOD DESIGNEverything about the products in this un-flinchingly cool boutique screams, Take me home! The perfect gallery lighting, the individual display stands, the little ex-planatory notes as if each item is a unique work of artwhich isnt far wrong since every one of them is decorated with one of Japans top design awards. Alongside icons of contemporary Japanese furniture like Sori Yanagis 1954 Butterfly Stool, youll also find easier-to-transport keep-sakes such as the Kirimoto Wooden Craft Factorys flawless lacquered business card holder. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5686. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Shopping_Dec_2015_new.indd 32 11/30/2558 BE 7:08 PM


Planning a visit to Singapore? Free digital subscription to Where Singapore for insider tips on where to go and what to do

www.wheresingapore.com

handy city maps & transportation guide

Follow us on facebook.com/wheresingapore to be the first to hear about new openings and hot events in Singapore.

Local guides. Worldwide.

Shopping_Dec_2015_new.indd 33 11/30/2558 BE 7:08 PM

ATTRACTIONSY


GUIDE

BAAN SILAPINTucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house

offers an authentic experience of traditional Thai cul-ture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant fam-ily, but is now home to a fellowship of artists whove transformed it into a public artists residence. Whether strolling around the ancient homes, sampling tradi-tional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just re-laxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, Pasicha-roen, 02-868-5279. Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm

SIAM NIRAMITThis over-the-top visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailands four main re-

gionsthe North, South, Central Plains and the North-eastto present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Ex-pect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village.

19 Tiamruammit Rd., 02-649-9222. Show starts at 8pm daily. www.siamniramit.com

MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUMThailands most famous Muay Thai stadium,

dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling localsas much of a spectacle as the fighting.

Rachadamnoen Nork Rd., 02-281-4205, Open Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30-10pm; Sun 3-5pm, 6:30-10pm

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVESThis fast-paced live Thai boxing show is

created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the ar-tistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and direc-tor of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickbox-ing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Cha-roenkrung Rd., 02-108-5999, Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin . www.fb.com/muaythailive.bkk

CALYPSO The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70

artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from Arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to Kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. Its all massively kitsch and something of a Bang-kok institution. Performances are held every day at 8:15pm and 9:45pm. Advance booking needed.

Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415, BTS Saphan Taksin. www.calypsocabaret.com.

2

1

3

4

5Hot Spots CULTURAL SHOWS

SIAM NIRAMIT

MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM

VIMANMEK First time-visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and youll realize that you can eas-ily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailands most prized photographs and artefacts, as well as King Rama Vs personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabila. But it isnt just the museums displays that will catch your eye the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm.

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm. www.vimanmek.com

Embassy CineplexTuck yourself in with a fluffy blanket and lean back on the roomy chairs while soaking up a film with your partner at this VIP cinema, boast-ing vogueish decor, state-of-the-art movie screens and sound systems, plus fully-stocked private minibars for every guest. There are five theaters in total, with seating options ranging from cocoon-style first class plane seats to pri-vate daybeds.

6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5999. Open daily 10am-2am. BTS Phloen Chit. www.embas-sycineplex.com

Y SPOTLIGHT

AKARAT A

KW

ISAN

Attractions_Dec_2015_new.indd 34 11/30/2558 BE 7:02 PM

ATTRACTIONS Y


GUIDE

Attractions_Dec_2015_new.indd 35 11/30/2558 BE 7:02 PM

NAVIGATEY


GUIDE

Saphan Taksin

Central Pier

Oriental

Si Phraya

Ratchawong

Krung Thon Buri

To Bang Wa Station

Hua Lamphong

Sam Yan

Silom

Chong Nonsi

Surasak

Saphan Khwai

Ari

Sanam Pao

Tha Tien

Tha Chang

Phra Athit

WangLang

Kamphaeng Phet

Bang Sue

MoChit

Huai Khwang

Sutthisan

Ratchadapisek

Lat Phrao

Phahon Yothin

Chatuchak Park

Victory Monument

Phaya Thai

Phrom Phong Thong Lo

Ekkamai

Phra Khanong

Sukhumvit

Phetchaburi

Makkasan

Ratchaprarop

Phaya Thai

Ramkhamhaeng

Chit Lom

PhloenChit

Lumphini

Khlong Toei

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Nana

Asok

Ratchadamri

Sala Daeng

Ratchathewi

Siam

National Stadium

On Nut

Bang Chak

Punnawithi

Udom Suk

Bang Na

Bearing

Phra Ram 9 9

Thailand Cultural Centre

Ratchawithi Rd.

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. Phetchaburi Rd.

Rama III Rd. 3

Sukhumvit Rd.

Silom R

d.

Sathor

n Rd.

Chao Phraya River Chao Phraya River

Yaowarat Rd.

Main road

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

BTS (Silom Line)

MRT

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

River/Klong (canal)

Pier

1 Asiatique the Riverfont

2 Chatuchak Market

3 Vimanmek Mansion

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

5 Khao San Road

6 National Museum

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

8 Wat Pho

9 Wat Arun

!0 Victory Monument

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

!3 Lumphini Park

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

!5 Siam Paragon

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Key

1

9

8

7

6

5

34

2

!1

!2

!7

!0

!5!6

!3

!4

!8

Y FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAN

Documents

Where® Thailand December 2015