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Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide
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06-12-2005,
04:25 AM #1
HotrodguruScooby Guru
Member#:37210Join Date: May2003Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in a
Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye 2007 Muddy FJCruiser
Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics
So what was supposed to be a nice beautiful Saturday to go driving turned into a get under the Subbie and bust out
the tools to wrench day. For the last month what I thought was maybe tire wear causing some road noise turned out
to be a bearing going bad. It was confirmed yesterday when I took a slow turn and heard a knocking, popping,
something’s just not right type sound. Not bad for 90k miles on the car with LOTS of track days. So after much
research and reading I decided to tackle the job. Before you start these are a few things you MUST HAVE or at least
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have access to (to get an idea or picture hit up http://www.snapon.com/):
1. Ball joint / tie rod separator.
2. A nice press.
3. Bearing separator.
4. Bearing & seal drivers (really large sockets will work as well)
Alot of good info was found here on NABISCO but none of the threads had pictures nor pointed out some of the
troublesome things I ran into. The Subbie manual (The PDF version I have) makes things kinda complex. After starting
on the left side of the vehicle the following illustrations and photos show the order of sequence I did the right side with
which seemed to go really smooth after having first done the left. Please use this thread to assist you and not
necessarily as a guideline. The threads I searched and found assisted me quite a bit and hope this adds to them. If
you've done this and maybe did it in a different order or with some easier steps please feel free to provide some
feedback.
Just wanna see the pics, click the link (Some pics are NOT IN ORDER) -
http://www.revo1.com/subbiebearing/index.htm
Guru
Disassembly
1. Well once you figure out you're going to need to replace the bearings it's best to do them as a set. Actually
it should be the only way. You'll need to get the bearings, outer seal, inner seals, snap rings and metal bands
for CV Boots.
2. To start like stated in the pic, you'll have to get the 1 1/4 axle nut loose. Easiest to break it loose with tires
on the ground, if you can't have someone hold the brakes.
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3. Remove all the standard brake items, caliper, pads, and caliper bracket. You'll need a 12mm, 14mm and a
17mm.
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06-12-2005,
04:25 AM #2
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#:37210Join Date: May2003
Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac
Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ
4. Now that you've removed the brake caliper and other items, place them aside and secure the brake caliper
on top (zip tie to the spring) to get it out of the way. Remove or loosen the following items (this is the order I
did it in).
1. ABS sensor - 12mm.
2. Upper AND lower ball joints (picture only shows upper) - 19mm.
3. Strut bolts (leave these in loose till you remove the CV boot bands) - 19mm.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 800x1066.
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2007 Muddy FJCruiser
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After a good recommendation by Gary S, I decided to update this pic. You have an option here, I do think it's a
tad bit easier to loosen the 14mm and drop the A-arm.
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5. Now it's time to remove the ball joints, CV boot bands and then removing the strut tower bolts.
EDIT - The following step (the next 2 pictures) IS NOT NECESARY to change
out the wheel bearings. I removed the bands and CV boots solely to replace
the grease while I was at it.
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Loosen and remove the 19mm bolts that hold the strut tower to the hub.
6. Now everything’s off and you're ready to remove the hub and take it to a shop, the garage or wherever you
have a press and bearing tools.
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Last edited by Hotrodguru; 06-25-2005 at 01:21 PM.
06-12-2005,
04:26 AM #3
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#:37210Join Date: May2003
Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!
6. Now its time to disassembly the hub. I think it’s easiest to explain simply by referring to the pics. The hub
assembly does have to be disassembled in this order.
1. Press the hub out (inside out).
2. Press the bearing out (outside in).
3. If needed use the bearing separator to remove the outer bearing that tends to stay on.
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FTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye 2007 Muddy FJ
Cruiser
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NICE!
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Last edited by Hotrodguru; 08-17-2005 at 09:17 AM.
06-12-2005,
04:26 AM #4
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#:37210Join Date: May2003
Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac
Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ
Assembly of Hub
Press the following items in this order.
1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust
shield
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2007 Muddy FJCruiser
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Last edited by Hotrodguru; 01-07-2008 at 12:51 AM.
06-12-2005,
04:26 AM #5
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#:37210Join Date: May2003
Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye
Assembly of hub back on car.
This is simple and you’re home free now. Make sure to take the opportunity at this time to clean out all the old
grease from the CV Joint and replacing it with some nice new stuff. I like the Lucas Red “N” Tacky #2 which is
good up to 540F. Once you freshly grease it, all you have to do is assemble it in the reverse order of which
you disassembled. Make sure to torque all the bolts back to factory specs. Last thing to do is to tighten the
axle nut and bending it down to lock on the axle. I had someone hold the brakes when I tightened it up and
that was it.
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Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJCruiser
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Breakdown on front axle assembly
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 821x409.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 820x433.
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Last edited by Hotrodguru; 09-01-2005 at 12:39 AM.
06-12-2005, 12:52 PM #6
BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of EasternMontana
Vehicle:09 GH B+
Thank you kind Sir! We (me ) have been wanting to see a nicely
outlined tutorial for a long time.
Couple of questions if I may- the sockets used to press out/in are
common sizes- you don't recall how big the biggest one was by
chance?
What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used bearing
need to be seperated?
good tip on the CV grease- are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it
done?
Did you repack the oem bearings w/ any "special grease? Would this be
difficult to do if one wanted to (I've seen a couple of high temp greases
mentioned in previous wheel bearing threads)?
Thanks again!
Mike
06-12-2005, 03:14 PM #7
Patrick OlsenNASIOC Supporter
Member#: 120Join Date: Jul 1999Chapter/Region: AKICLocation: Where the Navysends me...Vehicle:1997 Legacy 2.5GT
QuickSilver Metallic
I'm with Mike, this is something I've wanted to see a good tutorial on
for a while. I think I might have a left front wheel bearing going, but I
wasn't sure it was something I could do myself.
The only question I have is why did you remove the band from the CV
boot? Based on personal experience (I've replaced both my front axles
in the past couple years) you should be able to just pull the outer
splined portion right out of the hub without touching the CV boot itself,
especially since the steering knuckle is unbolted from the strut. There
should be plenty of play there. That would save you from some messy
work. Or is there something else I'm missing?
And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking the
wheel bearing with "better" grease. I seem to recall that Gary Sheehan
had wheel bearing problems on his USTCC car due to the extreme heat
he was putting into the brakes, and I vaguely recall him saying they
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disassembled the OEM bearings to repack them with higher temp
grease.
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
06-12-2005, 03:17 PM #8
rootScooby Specialist Member#: 55854Join Date: Feb 2004Location: Central FLVehicle:
2004 STi Blue/silver
Yippy! I've been hoping someone would write this up with photos.
06-12-2005, 03:37 PM #9
ArnieScooby Guru Member#: 1725Join Date: Jun 2000Chapter/Region: International
Location: Hamburg,DeutschlandVehicle:02 dentedrustedbug www.RaceDotCom.com
Yeah, SubySpecialties out here in SoCal does the same with their
bearing installs. They completely clean out the stock grease and
replace it with high quality high temp race grease.
06-12-2005, 03:58 PM #10
fragmentScooby Specialist Member#: 8050
Join Date: Jul 2001Chapter/Region: W. CanadaLocation: Bugeye EJ207 -T3T04SVehicle:2007 Wagon VF36
Nice!
I just printed it to a PDF in case your pics go away at some time in the
future.
I always wanted to buy a press, now I have an excuse.
06-12-2005, 08:08 PM #11
GarySheehanScooby Specialist
Member#: 2450Join Date: Sep 2000Chapter/Region: BAICLocation: SF Bay AreaVehicle:1996 GST Motorsports Time Attack "L" - White
Good write-up.
I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the upright rather
than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm. Much less work and risk
of damage by unbolting from upright. Unless, of course, the balljoint is
damaged and needs to be replaced anyway.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
www.teamSMR.com
06-12-2005, 08:14 PM #12
BLACK02WAGONScooby Specialist Member#: 32574
Join Date: Feb 2003Chapter/Region: South EastLocation: North CarolinaVehicle:2004 STi WRB 402whp/400wtq
Absolutely exceptional write up.
Nice work
06-12-2005, 08:27 PM #13
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HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210
Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
the sockets used to press out/in are common sizes- you don't
recall how big the biggest one was by chance?
What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used
bearing need to be seperated?
are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?
The sockets you can use will be pretty huge, I believe about 2 inches
or larger. Luckily at my friends shop they work on 18 wheelers so they
had an assortment of big sockets.
As for the bearing separator, well when we pushed the hub off the
bearing the lower bearing on both assemblies stayed on. You use the
bearing separator to clamp around the bearing allowing you to push the
axle out while holding the bearing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen
why did you remove the band from the CV boot?
And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking
the wheel bearing with "better" grease.
Well I just removed the band because my car had 90k miles on it. Lots
of track days and lots of standing water in Houston. Just wanted to
clean it out and replace with some new grease.
As for replacing the bearing with higher temp grease. I don't know if it's
really necessary but lots of people have said so. I think I was lucky to
get sooo many miles on my bearings. Luckily I did have availability to a
bearing grease packer (MUST HAVE TOOL if you want to do this) and
went ahead and replaced the OEM grease.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GarySheehan
I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the
upright rather than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm.
Much less work and risk of damage by unbolting from upright.
Ahhh nice...I thought about it but wasn't sure. Now I get a confirmation
, thanks for the tip.
Guru
06-12-2005, 09:27 PM #14
BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of EasternMontana
Vehicle:09 GH B+
OK- thanks that makes sense on the seperator.
Yeah there is just a small bolt that is removed on the knuckle and you
can tap down on the control arm and the ball joint will fall out ( if
doesn't you can use a beefy screw driver or small pry bar to gently
open the gap so that it does).
Just googled the bearing grease packer- looks like a very handy tool
(don't even have to get your hands dirty )
One other question- according to the FSM the press needed doesn't
look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low torque)- did you find
this to be true?
06-12-2005, 10:17 PM #15
forced4Scooby Guru
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Member#: 13304Join Date: Dec 2001Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: On Da Xtreme DriftzCircuitVehicle:2002 WRX WRB De Re Metallica
Thanks for the writeup Jay...I think I have some front bearings going
bad as well.
06-12-2005, 10:40 PM #16
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210
Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser
Well the only one we had access to was a 20 ton press down one. One
thing I've always done is place a little grease on the mating surfaces
such as say the bearing outer and hub inner to prevent so much
pressure and friction when pressing items. Even with a little grease
you'll hear some popping as the hub gets passed the inner and outer
races of the bearing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
One other question- according to the FSM the press needed
doesn't look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low
torque)- did you find this to be true?
Edited the part of the write-up with big red letters where I removed the
CV bands and boots. This step is not necessary and was done only
because I need to change out the grease . D_REX (TXIC)
recommened the edit to prevent a first timer from thinking this was a
necessary step.
Guru
06-13-2005, 08:45 AM #17
dwxScooby Guru Member#: 8343Join Date: Jul 2001Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Atlanta, GAVehicle:2005 Forester XT 2000 PS F250
I've done the bearings on all 4 corners, just as preventative
maintenance. I would recommend replacing the factory grease.
I would also recommend not re-using the axle nuts, buy new ones.
Don't torque the axle nut down with the car on the ground, and make
sure you have a torque wrench that goes pretty high.
These days Subaru changes them with the upright on the car, using a
couple specialty tools and just removing the axle/brake assembly .
06-13-2005, 11:02 PM #18
Lucky LoserScooby Guru Member#: 70055Join Date: Sep 2004Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: The Last ofVehicle:
The Famous International Playboys
THis should be a sticky...
iln
06-14-2005, 09:24 AM #19
LyveWRXScooby Specialist Member#: 19057Join Date: May 2002Chapter/Region: MWSOCLocation: Mid-Town, Detroit, MI
Vehicle:2002 WRX & Red Ford 1-ton Van
Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical dimensions you
used on the sockets to press the bearings in and out. I would love to
draw a universal set of rings/pushers in SolidWorks and have a set
made.
Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and borrow his
for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
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06-14-2005, 09:34 AM #20
BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of Eastern
MontanaVehicle:09 GH B+
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical
dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in
and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in
SolidWorks and have a set made.
Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and
borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
2nd that
06-14-2005, 10:21 AM #21
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical
dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in
and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in
SolidWorks and have a set made.
Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and
borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
Sure...if you can get me a set made at a good price . Just let me
know which exact measurements you're looking for so I don't miss any.
I'm assuming you'll need the dimensions for the hub as well seeing it's
pressed into the bearing and you have to push it out.
Guru
06-14-2005, 11:27 AM #22
LyveWRXScooby Specialist Member#: 19057Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOCLocation: Mid-Town, Detroit, MIVehicle:2002 WRX & Red Ford 1-ton Van
Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.
Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need at least
ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing when pushing on
it. Since I've not done this you may need to give me lots of details.
Also minimum length could be usefull also.
Last edited by LyveWRX; 06-14-2005 at 02:40 PM.
06-14-2005, 03:47 PM #23
ammelkScooby Newbie Member#: 85460Join Date: Apr 2005Chapter/Region: NWICLocation: RochesterVehicle:07 RallyX NITRO
White
this is super. thanks for the great write up..i want to redo mine, and I
was worried. Its not harding then the 4x4's I've owned and done this
to.. heck its even easier
thanks again for the super write up..
now.. lets sticky this bad boy..
06-14-2005, 04:39 PM #24
eltroubleScooby Specialist Member#: 79493 Great write-up, this definitely deserves a sticky.
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Join Date: Jan 2005Chapter/Region: SCICLocation: Cerritos, CAVehicle:
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06-15-2005, 03:43 PM #25
HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun House
FTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.
Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need
at least ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing
when pushing on it. Since I've not done this you may need to
give me lots of details.
Also minimum length could be usefull also.
I'll get you all the dimensions this weekend if I get a chance. Work has
me slaving currently, haha. I'm going to see if I can go up to the dealer,
have them pull a new bearing, hub and I'll measure and photograph the
dimensions.
Guru
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