Wet Winterization Process

A wet winterization is a winterization on a water based heating system. This process is to follow the

winterization of the plumbing. You MUST shut off the water and DRAIN the system before you proceed

with a wet winterization.

* The only reason to not drain the system is if the heat is staying on at the home, in which case the steps

are the same except you must add a boiler approved antifreeze "glycol" to ensure the boiler system can

run while still not being able to freeze.

Step 1. Shut Off Gas/Electric

First you will need to ensure that the Gas or Electric to the Boiler/Radiant/baseboard heat system is shut

off. Damage can occur from draining a system while it is still on. For a Gas System you will locate the gas

shut off for the heating system. This is normally near the unit itself a few feet above the ground. For

electric many units have a large breaker right on the exterior of the heating system. You will flip this

breaker and place tape or a clients sticker over the breaker to ensure no one turns the system back on

accidentally.

*For gas heating systems also make sure to shut off the pilot if applicable.

** For electric tape down all breakers and power switches to the unit. This includes on the unit, a

remote switch, and the breaker itself.

Step 2. Pressurize

When you have Shut off the water supply you will connect your Air compressor to the system to blow

out the water in the lines. The best location to perform this from is on the upper zones on the system.

This is normally located near the top of the system. There normally are multiple zones for a water based

heating system. Each zone should have a separate spicket where you can attach to pressurize.

By connecting to the upper zone you force the water through the home first and then it comes out the

storage tank at the bottom when you drain the system.

*All boilers have a set pressure, the normal operating pressure for a residential boiler is 20-30 psi. If you

pressurize the system beyond this level you will pop the relief valve.

"This is not a bad thing but it can cause a mess if you are not prepared. The relief valve is normally near

the same drain valve and will have a pipe going to the ground, sump pump, drain, etc."

Always provide a photo showing where you connected the compressor to in the system, and a photo of

the compressor itself.

This is an example of a Pressure

Relief Valve. Notice it drains

directly to the floor. Be prepared

with a bucket or hose if this is the

case.

Step 3. Draining the System.

Now that the system is pressurized you can drain the systems storage tank. The size of the storage tank

can vary greatly in water based heating systems. Systems sizes normally are at least 5 gallons and can

get as large as 30 gallons in a residential home. Make sure you have adequate drainage location when

you start to drain the system. "draining into a bucket will take a while, make sure to bring plenty of

hose.

To drain system locate the drain spicket. This is normally near the bottom of the unit and is often close

to the water input supply.

Move the hose to an adequate location "i.e. sump pump hole, outside the home, floor drain, etc." The

pressure will help empty the system quickly.

***Always Provide photos showing where you drained the storage tank.

Step 4. Pressure Test

Now that the system has been drained you will perform a pressure test on the system. Make sure all

opening are closed i.e. spickets for the zones.

The pressure test will be dependent on the boiler itself. You should not be able to over pressurize the

system as it has a pressure relief valve that is pre set. If you over pressurize you will hear the pressure

relief valve open on its own to dump the excess pressure. Many times you can locate the proper

pressure from a service tag on the unit.

Example:

As you can see, this unit is set for 15 PSI. that means your pressure test should probably be between 10-

15 PSI. Your pressure test should still hold in the system for approximately 30 minutes and match the

systems set pressure.

Again you will show the gauge from your compressor, and if available the gauge on the heating unit

itself. Provide photos showing the inlet pressure "the air compressors pressure" and of the outlet

pressure "the pressure you are applying to the system itself."

If the system does not hold pressure go around the home and check for leaks. Leaks can be from the

piping or from the heating units i.e. radiators, floor units, etc.

When you have found the cause of the leak note its location, severity, and what is needed to fix the

issue. Always take photos of any damaged plumbing.

Example:

***** DO NOT CONTINUE IF THE SYSTEM HAS A LEAK !!! *****

Step 5. Winterizing the System.

Now that you have drain and tested the system we will winterize the system to prevent it from freeze

damage. Depending on the client you will use either RV-antifreeze or Boiler Glycol in the system. The

process is exactly the same either way. The only difference is the quantity and concentration.

*RV-Antifreeze is not intended to Run in the system it only is used to protect the system. You will

completely fill the system if this is what you are using.

**Glycol performs the same purpose as Antifreeze but is intended to be used in a running system.

Normally you use a 50/50 mix of water to glycol.

You will need 2 hoses to fill the system with Antifreeze/Glycol. One will be placed on the drain side of

the tank. This is where you will fill the system. The second hose will be used to cycle the fluid and be

placed on one of the Zone Drains.

Example:

IN OUT

You will use a Bucket and a Pump to put the fluid into the system. Fill the bucket with Antifreeze or

Glycol Water Mix and have it pump into the drain side of the system.

The return Line will also be placed in the bucket. As the system fills itself you will have to add more fluid.

You are checking to see when the fluid starts to recycle back into the bucket from the Zone line. When

fluid flows from the zone line you have then winterized that zone. Repeat this step by simply moving the

hose to each individual zone line and ensuring that the system fills each individual zone.

When you have fluid coming out all the zones back into the bucket you have completed the

winterization. You will ensure all the shut offs are closed completely. It might be a good idea to cap the

lines so that they cannot leak as well.

** Some Clients may also want to zip tie the shut off valves so no one can drain the system by mistake

Step 6. Labeling the Winterization

Now you have completed the winterization of the system. You will need to now label the system to

show any future residents, inspectors, contractors that the wet system has been winterized and that

steps will need to be taken before the Heating System can be utilized again.

Each clients postings vary, but the locations tend to stay the same. You will need to put a posting on the

electrical box, any breakers or switches, the hot water system itself , and the gas shut off valves in some

cases.

Example:

---This completes a Wet Winterization--- Make sure to provide photos of every step outlines here----