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Contents
Welcome to London .......4
London’s Top 16..............6
What’s New ................... 17
Need to Know ...............18
Top Itineraries ............. 20
If You Like ..................... 22
Month by Month .......... 26
With Kids ...................... 30
Like a Local .................. 35
For Free .........................37
Museums & Galleries ...................... 39
Eating .......................... 44Drinking & Nightlife...53Gay & Lesbian .............59Entertainment ............ 61Shopping ......................67Sports & Activities ....72
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand London 341
Survival Guide 387
London Maps 419
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore London 74
Transport ...................388 Directory A–Z ............ 397 Index ........................... 407
London Today ............ 342
History ........................344
Architecture ............... 362
Literary London .........368
Theatre & Dance ....... 372
Art & Fashion ............. 375
The Music Scene ....... 379
Film & Media ..............383
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ...........................76The West End ................78
The City .......................139
The South Bank ..........162
Kensington & Hyde Park .............................. 181
Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfi elds ..................201
The East End & Docklands ...................217
Hampstead & North London ....................... 233
Notting Hill & West London ....................... 256
Greenwich & South London .......................268
Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court ..........291
Day Trips from London ............. 307
Sleeping .................... 322
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Westminster Abbey ......... 80
British Museum.................83
Buckingham Palace ......... 88
Houses of Parliament ...... 90
Soho ...................................92
National Gallery ................93
Trafalgar Square ............... 96
National Portrait Gallery ..97
Tate Britain ....................... 98
Churchill War Rooms ....... 99
Sir John Soane’s Museum .......................... 100
Tower of London...............141
St Paul’s Cathedral ......... 147
Tate Modern ....................164
Shakespeare’s Globe ......168
Victoria & Albert Museum ...........................183
Natural History Museum ........................... 187
British Library ................. 235
London Zoo ......................237
Royal Observatory & Greenwich Park .............. 270
Old Royal Naval College ..272
Hampton Court Palace .. 293
Kew Gardens .................. 296
London Eye (p169), designed by David Marks and Julia Barfield
TOP SIGHTS LONDON ’S
75
EatingSpitalfi elds Market (p215)
NE
IL SE
TCH
FIELD
/ LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
Once the laughing stock of the cooking world, London has got its culinary act together in the last 20 years and is now an undisputed dining destination. There are plenty of fine, Michelin-starred restaurants, but it is the sheer diversity on offer that is extraordinary: from Afghan to Vietnamese, London is a virtual A to Z of world cuisine.
44
Specialities ENGLISH FOOD England may have given the world beans on toast, mushy peas and chip butties (French fries between two slices of but-tered – and untoasted – white bread), but that’s hardly the whole story. When well prepared – be it a Sunday lunch of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (light batter baked until fl uff y and eaten with gravy) or a cornet of lightly battered fi sh and chips sprinkled with salt and malt vinegar – English food can have its moments. And nothing beats a fry-up (or full English breakfast) with bacon, sausages, beans, eggs and mushrooms the morning after a big night out.
Modern British food has become a cui-sine in its own right, by championing tra-ditional (and sometimes underrated) in-gredients such as root vegetables, smoked fi sh, shellfi sh, game and other meats such as sausages and black pudding (a kind of sausage stuff ed with oatmeal, spices and blood). Dishes can be anything from game served with a traditional vegetable such as Jerusalem artichoke, seared scallops with orange-scented black pudding and roast pork with chorizo on rosemary mash.
SEAFOOD Many who travel to England comment on the fact that for an island, Brits seem to make surprisingly little of their seafood, with the exception of the ubiquitous fi sh and chips. Modern British restaurants have started catching up, however, and many now off er local specialities such as Dover sole, Cornish oysters, Scottish
Traditional British roast dinner
PAU
L WILLIA
MS
/ ALA
MY
NEED TO KNOW
Opening Hours In this book opening hours are listed in individual reviews only when they sig-nifi cantly diff er from standard opening hours, as indicated below:
Chain restaurants: noon-11pm
Most restaurants: noon-2.30pm and 6-11pm
Price Ranges The symbols below indicate the average cost per main course at the restaurant in question.
£ less than £10
££ £10-20
£££ more than £20
Reservations Make reservations at weekends, if
you’re keen on a particular place, or if you’re in a group of more than four people.
Top-end restaurants often run mul-tiple sittings, with allocated time slots (generally two hours); pick a late slot if you don’t want to be rushed.
Tipping Most restaurants automatically tack a ‘discretionary’ service charge (usually 12.5%) onto the bill; this should be clearly advertised. If you feel the service wasn’t adequate, you can tip separately (or not tip at all).
Haute Cuisine, Low Prices Top-end restaurants offer set lunch
menus that are great value; à la carte prices are sometimes cheaper for lunch.
Many West End restaurants offer good-value pre- or post-theatre menus.
The reliable internet booking service Top Table (www.toptable.co.uk) offers substantial discounts (up to 50% off the food bill) at selected restaurants.
BYO BYO is common among budget estab-
lishments; some charge corkage (£1 to £1.50 per bottle of wine).
Wine Pages (www.wine-pages.com) keeps a useful directory of BYO restaurants.
45PLAN
YOUR TRIP E
ATIN
G45
419
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
London Maps
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MAP
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X 1 D
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(p 42
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7 The
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æ Top Sights (p224) ú Eating (p229)Museum of London Docklands................. A1 A Grelha ..............................................(see 5)
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æ Top Sights (p80) 24 New World .................................................H4Piccadilly Circus ........................................ F6 25 Nordic Bakery............................................D5Soho .......................................................... G3 Polpetto ............................................(see 43)
26 Princi .......................................................... F2æ Sights (p101) 27 Sakura........................................................A4
1 Chinatown................................................. H4 Spice Market ................................... (see 94)2 Eros Statue ................................................ F6 28 Spuntino .................................................... F43 London Trocadero..................................... F5 29 Star Café..................................................... F14 Photographer's Gallery.............................C2 30 Veeraswamy..............................................D65 Regent Street.............................................D5 31 Wild Honey................................................. A46 Soho Square .............................................. G1 32 Yauatcha.................................................... E37 St James's Piccadilly................................. E7
û Drinking & Nightlife (p125)ú Eating (p113) 33 Academy....................................................H3
5th View............................................ (see 88) 34 Barcode ..................................................... F58 Andrew Edmunds......................................E3 35 Boheme Bar & Kitchen .............................H39 Arbutus.......................................................G2 36 Candy Bar .................................................. F2
10 Bar Shu...................................................... H3 37 Coach & Horses ........................................H311 Barrafina ....................................................G2 38 Diu ..............................................................G212 Berwick St Market..................................... F3 39 Duke of Wellington.................................... F413 Bocca di Lupo ............................................ F4 40 Edge ........................................................... G114 Dean Street Townhouse .......................... G3 41 Endurance ................................................. E315 Fernandez & Wells.....................................E3 42 Experimental Cocktail Club......................H416 Gay Hussar................................................. G1 43 French House ............................................G317 HIX ..............................................................E5 44 Friendly Society ........................................ F418 Koya........................................................... G3 45 John Snow .................................................D319 Kulu Kulu ....................................................D5 46 Ku Bar Frith St...........................................G320 Mildred's.....................................................E3 Lo Profile.......................................... (see 49)21 Milk Bar ......................................................G2 47 Madame Jo Jo's ........................................ F422 Momo .........................................................C5 48 Milk & Honey ............................................. E323 Mooli's ....................................................... G3 49 Profile......................................................... F3
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50 Village ......................................................... F4 72 Marshmallow Mountain............................C451 White Horse ............................................... F4 73 Minamoto Kitchoan .................................. D752 Yard ............................................................F4 74 Miss Selfridge.............................................B1
75 Phonica ......................................................D2ý Entertainment (p130) 76 Prowler....................................................... F4
53 Amused Moose Soho............................... H2 Ray's Jazz .........................................(see 67)54 Borderline .................................................. H1 77 Reckless Records...................................... E2
Comedy Camp................................. (see 34) 78 Reiss............................................................C155 Comedy Store........................................... G6 79 Rigby & Peller ............................................B456 Curzon Soho ............................................. H3 80 Sister Ray .................................................. E257 Pizza Express Jazz Club ............................F1 81 Sounds of the Universe ............................ E258 Prince Charles .......................................... H4 82 Sting ........................................................... E659 Ronnie Scott's .......................................... G3 83 Topshop & Topman ...................................B160 Soho Theatre ............................................. F2 84 Urban Outfitters.........................................B1
85 Vintage House ...........................................G3þ Shopping (p132) 86 Vivienne Westwood .................................. A5
61 Abercrombie & Fitch.................................C6 87 Warehouse ................................................ B262 Agent Provocateur .................................... E2 88 Waterstone's ............................................. E763 Algerian Coffee Stores............................. G364 Apple Store ................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p325)65 Aquascutum ............................................. D6 89 Brown's ...................................................... B766 Beyond The Valley.....................................D3 Dean Street Townhouse.................. (see 14)67 Foyle's ....................................................... H2 90 Haymarket.................................................H7
Grant & Cutler.................................. (see 67) 91 Hazlitt's ......................................................G268 Hamleys .....................................................C4 92 Number 5 Maddox Street.........................B369 Harold Moore's Records...........................D2 93 Soho Hotel ................................................. F270 Joy ...............................................................E1 94 W ................................................................G571 Liberty ........................................................C3 95 YHA Oxford St ...........................................D2
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St George'sGardens
BloomsburySquare
St PancrasCoram's
Fields
Bloomsbury
Way
Drury La
MacklinSt
Stukely
St
Tonbridge StArgyle St
Bury Pl
Crenville
St
Hunter St
Guildford St
MuseumSt
QueenSq
Handel
St
Harrison StCromer St
BedfordPl
Betterto
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Brunswick Sq
Bernard St
Southampton Row
High HolbornNew Oxford St
RussellSq
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p432
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To Bea's ofBloomsbury
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æ Top Sights (p83) 22 Lord John Russell ................ D2British Museum ................... D5 23 Museum Tavern................... D6Wellcome Collection ........... B2 24 Newman Arms..................... B6
25 Queen's Larder .....................E4æ Sights (p101) 26 Tempus Bar ......................... D4
1 Bedford Square ................... C52 Brunswick Centre.................E3 ý Entertainment (p130)3 BT Tower.............................. A4 27 100 Club ............................... B74 Gordon Square .................... C3 28 Place ..................................... C25 New London Architecture... C56 Petrie Museum of Egyptian þ Shopping (p132)
Archaeology...................... B4 29 Bang Bang Exchange .......... B57 Pollock's Toy Museum........ B5 30 Gay's the Word .................... D28 Russell Square..................... D4 31 Gosh! .................................... D69 St George's Bloomsbury..... E6 32 London Review Bookshop ...E5
33 On the Beat .......................... C6ú Eating (p113)
10 Abeno ................................... E6 ÿ Sleeping (p325)11 Busaba Eathai...................... B5 34 Academy .............................. C512 Chilli Cool ............................. D2 35 Arosfa ................................... B413 Diwana Bhel Poori House ... A2 36 Arran House Hotel............... B414 Fino ....................................... B5 37 Charlotte Street Hotel......... B615 Hakkasan ............................. C6 38 Generator............................. D216 Hummus Bros.......................E5 39 Grange Blooms Hotel.......... D517 North Sea Fish Restaurant . D2 40 Harlingford Hotel................. D218 Rasa Samudra ..................... B6 41 Jesmond Hotel..................... B419 Ravi Shankar........................ A2 42 Morgan Hotel ....................... D620 Roka...................................... B5 43 Ridgemount Hotel ............... C4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p125)21 Bradley's Spanish Bar......... B6
WEST EN
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MSBURY
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MARYLEBONE
MAYFAIR
Boating Lake Park SquareGardens
HydePark
Regent's Park
South Molton St
Gloucester Pl
Marylebone
High
St
Oxford St
Park La
Davies
St
Nottingham
Pl
Gloucester Pl
Marble Ave
Wigmore St
Edgware Rd
Orchard
St
York St
Baker St
Seymour St
Marylebone Rd
Portman Sq
Cum
be rlandGate
Marylebone Rd
Bickenhall St
Culross St
Chiltern
St
LuxboroughS
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Upper Brook St
Edward Mews
Grosvenor Sq
Harley
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Devonshire
Pl
Bryanston
SqM
ontaguSq
Outer Circle
Devonshire St
George St
Dorset St
Mar
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SouthA
udleySt
New Cavendish St
Mount St
Blandford St
North
AudleySt
George St
York TceAllsop Pl
Moxon St
Weymouth St
Marylebone
St
Green St
York St
South StAldford St
AybrookS
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FarmSt
North Row
ParkSt
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Beaumont St
Grosvenor Sq
Upper M
ontaguSt
Crawford St
Hill St
York Tce
Upper Berkeley St
Wellbeck
St
Bentinck St
Brook St
Queen Anne St
Seymour Pl
Portman Cl
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Upper Grosvenor St
Harley
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North Ride
Gulbert St
Waverton
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Oldbury
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Hay's
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Mount Row
Boston
Pl
Reeves Mews
Connaught Pl
Woods Mews
Ivor Pl
Dorset
Sq
Adam's Row
Binney
St
Badlerton
StThayer
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Eæ Top Sights (p80) 24 Prince Regent ...................... C2
Madame Tussauds...............B1 25 Punch Bowl .......................... D6Wallace Collection............... C3 26 Purl ....................................... C3
æ Sights (p112) ý Entertainment (p130)1 All Souls Church ...................E3 27 Wigmore Hall ....................... D32 Broadcasting House.............E33 Flatiron ................................. D4 þ Shopping (p136)4 Handel House Museum........E5 28 Burberry............................... E65 Sherlock Holmes Museum ..B1 29 Butler & Wilson.................... D5
30 Cath Kidston ........................ C2ú Eating (p122) 31 Daunt Books ........................ C2
6 Fishworks............................. C2 32 French Connection UK........ C47 Golden Hind ......................... C3 33 John Lewis ............................E4
Gordon Ramsay at 34 Kurt Geiger........................... D5Claridge's .................(see 42) 35 Marks & Spencer................. C5
8 Greenhouse ......................... D7 36 Monocle Shop...................... C39 Il Baretto............................... C3 37 Mulberry................................E5
10 Le Boudin Blanc....................E7 38 Poste .................................... D511 Le Pain Quotidien ................ C2 39 Selfridges ............................. C412 Locanda Locatelli ................ B4 40 Stella McCartney................. E613 Marylebone Farmers
Market ............................... C2 ÿ Sleeping (p325)14 Natural Kitchen.................... C2 41 Chesterfield ......................... D715 Ping Pong ............................. C2 42 Claridge's ............................. D516 Providores & Tapa Room.... C3 43 Cumberland Hotel ............... B517 Reubens ............................... B2 44 Hotel La Place...................... C218 Villandry ................................E2 45 No 10 Manchester Street.... C319 Wallace ................................. C320 Wild Honey............................E5
û Drinking & Nightlife (p129)21 Guinea .................................. E622 Loop Bar................................E423 Marylebone .......................... C2
WEST EN
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430
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Bro
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Caxton St
Allington St
Francis
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Spur Rd
St George's Dr
Guildhouse St
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DukeSt
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Howick P l
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Eæ Top Sights (p80) 17 Spencer House .................... B2
Buckingham Palace............. A4 18 St James's Palace ............... B2Churchill War Rooms .......... D3 19 St James's Park................... C3Houses of Parliament...........E4 20 St John's, Smith Square ......E5Royal Academy of Arts ........B1 21 St Stephen's Entrance .........E4Tate Britain ...........................E7 22 White Cube Gallery...............B1Westminster Abbey............. D4
ú Eating (p113)æ Sights (p101) 23 Cinnamon Club.................... D5
1 Banqueting House................E2 24 Inn the Park.......................... D22 Big Ben ..................................E4 25 Vincent Rooms .................... C63 Burlington Arcade ................B1 26 Wolseley ................................B14 Cenotaph...............................E35 Clarence House ................... B3 Entertainment (p130)6 Green Park ........................... A2 ICA Cinema ................... (see 9)7 Guards Museum .................. B48 Horse Guards Parade.......... D2 þ Shopping (p132)9 Institute of Contemporary 27 DR Harris.............................. B2
Arts .................................... D2 28 Fortnum & Mason.................B110 Jewel Tower ..........................E4 29 Penhaligon's .........................B111 National Police Memorial.... D2 30 Shepherds............................ B612 No 10 Downing Street ..........E3 31 Taylor of Old Bond Street....B113 Queen Victoria Memorial.... B3 32 Wright & Teague...................A114 Queen's Chapel.................... B215 Queen's Gallery ................... A4 ÿ Sleeping (p325)16 Royal Mews.......................... A5 33 Ritz........................................ A2
WEST EN
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Rose St
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Endell St
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Long Acre
Long Acre
Great Queen St
Northumberland Ave
Wellington
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Bear StCranbourn St
High HolbornNew Oxford St
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TrafalgarSq
Char ingCross Rd
St Giles High St
Whitehall
Pall Mall
Cockspur St
Drury La
Great Russell St
Covent Garden
Savoy Pl
AdamSt
Shelton St
John AdamStWilliam IV St
Lisle St
Floral St
Garrick St
Wild St
Tavistock St
New
tonSt
Langley St
Earlham St
Museum
St
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St
Henrietta
St
Neal St
King St
Orange St
Macklin
St
Betterto
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Mercer St
Barter St
Russ
ell S
tW
hitcomb
St Villiers St
NewCom
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St
Parke
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ShortsGdns
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Bucknall St
New Row
Southampton
St
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Grape
St
Craven St
StM
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Agan St
West St
Bedfordbury
CartingLa
Catherine St
Chandos Pl
Exeter St
Litchfield St
CharingCross
Holborn
CharingCross
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CoventGarden
Leicester Sq
NationalPortraitGallery
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HOLBORN
River T
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Strand
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Sardinia St
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æ Top Sights (p93) û Drinking & Nightlife (p128)National Gallery .........................................A6 37 Cross Keys.................................................C3National Portrait Gallery...........................B6 38 Freud..........................................................B2Sir John Soane's Museum .........................E1 39 Gordon's Wine Bar.................................... C7Somerset House........................................ E5 40 Heaven ....................................................... C7Trafalgar Square .......................................B7 41 Ku Bar Lisle St ........................................... A4
42 Lamb & Flag...............................................B4æ Sights (p106) 43 Polski Bar................................................... D1
1 Admiralty Arch...........................................A7 44 Princess Louise ......................................... D12 Bush House................................................E4 45 Salisbury.................................................... B53 Courtauld Gallery ......................................E4 46 Seven Stars ...............................................G24 Covent Garden Piazza.............................. D45 Hunterian Museum ................................... F2 ý Entertainment (p130)6 Inner Temple and Middle Temple ........... H3 47 12 Bar ......................................................... A27 Leicester Square .......................................A5 48 Donmar Warehouse.................................. B38 Lincoln's Inn................................................F1 49 London Coliseum ...................................... B59 London Transport Museum..................... D4 50 Poetry Café................................................ C2
10 Nelson's Column .......................................B7 Royal Opera House .......................... (see 12)11 Royal Courts of Justice............................ G3 51 tkts Leicester Sq ....................................... A512 Royal Opera House....................................C313 St Clement Danes..................................... G3 þ Shopping (p134)14 St Giles-in-the-Fields.................................A2 52 Apple Store................................................C415 St Martin-in-the-Fields..............................B6 53 Benjamin Pollock's Toyshop....................C416 St Paul's Church........................................C4 54 Covent Garden Market .............................C417 Stanley Gibbons ........................................D5 55 Forbidden Planet Megastore ................... B218 Strand.........................................................C6 56 James Smith & Sons..................................B119 Twinings .................................................... G3 57 Jigsaw ........................................................B4
58 Karen Millen...............................................C4ú Eating (p120) 59 Lucy in Disguise ........................................C4
20 Asadal......................................................... D1 60 Molton Brown............................................D421 Assa............................................................A2 61 Neal's Yard Dairy....................................... B322 Baozi Inn.....................................................A4 62 Oasis ..........................................................C423 Ben's Cookies ........................................... D4 63 Paul Smith .................................................C424 Canela.........................................................B3 64 Poste Mistress........................................... B325 Giaconda Dining Room .............................A2 65 Space NK ...................................................C326 Great Queen Street ...................................D2 66 Stanford's ..................................................B427 J Sheekey...................................................B5 67 Ted Baker ..................................................C428 Monmouth Coffee Company....................B3 68 Urban Outfitters........................................ B329 National Dining Rooms .............................A630 Portrait .......................................................B6 ÿ Sleeping (p325)31 Primrose Bakery....................................... D4 69 Covent Garden Hotel ................................B332 Rock & Sole Plaice.....................................B2 70 Fielding Hotel.............................................D333 Rules...........................................................C5 71 High Holborn Residence...........................C234 Scoop .........................................................C3 72 One Aldwych.............................................. E435 Shanghai Blues.......................................... C1 73 Seven Dials Hotel ...................................... B236 Wahaca.......................................................C5 74 Waldorf Hilton ........................................... E4
WES
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OVEN
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RDEN
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THE SOUTH BANK Map on p436
æ Top Sights (p164) 30 Oxo Tower Restaurant & Brasserie.........C3Borough Market.........................................E4 31 Roast .......................................................... E4London Dungeon ....................................... F4 Skylon .............................................. (see 46)London Eye ................................................A4Shakespeare's Globe ................................D3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p177)Southbank Centre .....................................A4 32 Anchor Bankside....................................... E3Southwark Cathedral ................................E3 33 Baltic ..........................................................C4Tate Modern ..............................................D3 34 Concrete ....................................................B4
35 George Inn ................................................. E4æ Sights (p169) 36 King's Arms ...............................................B4
1 Bankside Gallery........................................D3 37 Rake ........................................................... E42 City Hall ..................................................... G4 38 Royal Oak................................................... E53 Clink Prison Museum ................................E3 39 Scootercaffe.............................................. B54 County Hall ................................................A5 Swan at the Globe............................(see 47)5 Design Museum........................................ H46 Fashion & Textile Museum .......................G5 ý Entertainment (p178)7 Golden Hinde .............................................E3 40 BFI IMAX Cinema ...................................... B48 Golden Hinde Shop (Ticket Office)..........E3 41 BFI Southbank........................................... B3
Hayward Gallery .............................. (see 34) 42 Menier Chocolate Factory........................ E49 HMS Belfast .............................................. G3 43 National Theatre ....................................... B3
10 London Bridge Experience & London 44 Old Vic........................................................C5Tombs ..................................................... F3 Purcell Room ....................................(see 45)
11 London Duck Tours...................................A5 45 Queen Elizabeth Hall................................. A312 London Film Museum ...............................A5 46 Royal Festival Hall ..................................... A413 Millennium Bridge .....................................D3 47 Shakespeare's Globe................................D3
National Theatre.............................. (see 43) 48 Southbank Centre..................................... A414 Old Operating Theatre Museum & 49 Young Vic...................................................C4
Herb Garret ............................................. F4Queen Elizabeth Hall ....................... (see 45) þ Shopping (p180)
15 RIB London Voyages.................................A4 50 Bermondsey Market.................................G616 Rose Theatre .............................................E3 51 Konditor & Cook........................................ B4
Royal Festival Hall ........................... (see 46) 52 Konditor & Cook........................................ E417 Sea Life London Aquarium .......................A5 53 South Bank Book Market .........................B318 Shard .......................................................... F419 St Olaf House............................................. F3 ÿ Sleeping (p329)20 Topolski Century .......................................B4 54 Bankside House ........................................D321 Vinopolis.....................................................E3 55 Bermondsey Square Hotel.......................G6
56 Butler's Wharf Residence.........................H4ú Eating (p173) 57 Express by Holiday Inn .............................D4
22 Anchor & Hope ..........................................C4 58 Great Dover St Apartments ..................... F623 Applebee's Fish Café.................................E4 59 Mad Hatter.................................................C3
Canteen............................................ (see 46) 60 Oasis .......................................................... F424 Champor-Champor................................... F4 61 Premier Inn ................................................ E325 Garrison Public House ..............................G5 62 Premier Inn ................................................ A526 Laughing Gravy..........................................C5 63 St Christopher's Inn.................................. E427 M Manze.................................................... G6 64 St Christopher's Village............................ E428 Magdalen................................................... G4 65 Stamford St Apartments..........................B429 Masters Super Fish ...................................C5
THE SOUTH BAN
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STJAMES'S
River Thames
St James'sParkLake
St James'sPark
RanelaghGardens
PimlicoGardens
HydePark
GreenPark
St James'sSquare
BuckinghamPalace
Gardens
TennisCourts
BurtonisCourt
Down StOld Park La
Pall Mall
Grosvenor Pl
Hobart Pl
Belgrave Rd
SloaneSt
Chelsea Bridge Rd
Knightsbridge
Tothill St
The Mall
Lupus St
Wilt
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Palace St
Hill St
Ashley Pl Great Peter St
Regency
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Royal Hospita
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Ebur
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Sutherland St
Cambridge St
Winchester St
Roch
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Buck
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Eaton Pl
Regent St
Constitution Hill
Birdcage Walk
Belgrave Pl
Haymarket
BerkeleySt
Pont St
Grosvenor Rd
Park La
Park La
Chelsea Embankment
Victoria St
VictoriaSt
Piccadilly
Victoria
Marble Arch
St James'sPark
Hyde ParkCorner
Knightsbridge
Sloane Sq
PiccadillyCircus
GreenPark
Pimlico
Apsley House
VictoriaCoach Station
Green LineBus Station
VictoriaCoach Station
(Arrivals)
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æ Top Sights (p183) 19 Saatchi Gallery .............. E5 51 Ciné Lumière ................. C5Apsley House..................F3 20 Serpentine Gallery........ C3 52 Royal Albert Hall ........... B3Hyde Park ...................... D2 21 Serpentine Sackler 53 Royal Court Theatre..... E5Kensington Palace........ A3 Gallery .........................C2Natural History 22 Speakers' Corner...........E1 þ Shopping (p199)
Museum ......................C4 23 Tyburn Convent .............D1 54 Butler & Wilson.............. C5Science Museum ..........C4 24 Tyburn Tree Site ............E1 55 Church's.........................D4Victoria & Albert 25 Wellington Arch..............F3 Conran Shop.........(see 12)
Museum ......................C4 26 Westminster 56 Harrods ..........................D4Cathedral ....................G4 57 Harvey Nichols .............. E3
æ Sights (p190) 58 John Sandoe Books...... E51 Albert Memorial ............ B3 ú Eating (p195) 59 Limelight Movie Art ...... C72 Australian War Bibendum..............(see 12) 60 Lulu Guinness................ E5
Memorial ......................F3 27 Byron .............................. C7 61 Rippon Cheese Stores . G53 Brompton Oratory........ C4 28 Daquise .......................... C54 Carlyle's House ............. D7 29 Dinner by Heston ÿ Sleeping (p329)5 Chelsea Old Church...... C7 Blumenthal ................. E3 62 Aster House................... C56 Chelsea Physic 30 El Pirata ...........................F2 63 Astor Hyde Park............ B3
Garden..........................E7 31 Galvin at Windows .........F2 64 Astor Kensington.......... A57 Diana, Princess of 32 Gordon Ramsay .............E7 65 Astor Victoria ................H5
Wales Memorial 33 Haché ............................. B7 66 B+B Belgravia.................F5Playground ................. A2 34 Hunan ............................. F6 67 Blakes .............................B6
8 Edward Jenner Statue...C1 35 Kazan..............................G5 68 Cadogan Hotel............... E4Elfin Oak ..................(see 7) 36 Launceston Place ......... A4 69 easyHotel Victoria ........ G5
9 Holocaust Memorial 37 Min Jiang........................ A3 70 Gore ................................B4Garden......................... E3 38 Nobu ................................F2 71 Halkin...............................F3
10 Kings Road.....................D6 39 Orangery ........................ A2 72 Knightsbridge Hotel......D411 Marble Arch .................... E1 40 Penny Black................... B7 73 Lanesborough ................F312 Michelin House.............. D5 41 Pimlico Road Farmers 74 Luna Simone Hotel .......H513 National Army Market ..........................F5 75 Meininger ....................... B5
Museum ...................... E6 42 Racine.............................D4 76 Number Sixteen............ C514 New Zealand War 43 Rasoi Vineet Bhatia ...... D5 77 San Domenico House... D5
Memorial ......................F3 44 Roussillon....................... F6 78 Windermere Hotel ........G6Orangery .............. (see 39) 45 Tom's Kitchen ...............D6
15 Peter Pan Statue........... C2 46 Zuma...............................D316 Princess Diana
Memorial û Drinking & Nightlife (p198)Fountain ...................... C3 47 Drayton Arms ................B6
17 Queen Elizabeth 48 Nag's Head..................... E3Gate ..............................F3 49 Queen's Arms................B4
Royal Albert Hall . (see 52)18 Royal Hospital ý Entertainment (p198)
Chelsea........................ E6 50 Cadogan Hall ................. E5
HYD
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443
CLERKENWELL, SHOREDITCH & SPITALFIELDS Map on p444
æ Top Sights (p204) 28 Moro ...............................A4 68 Three Kings.................... B5Dennis Severs' 29 Nude Espresso..............H6 69 Vibe Bar..........................H5
House .......................... G5 30 Poppies...........................H6 70 Vinoteca .........................C6Geffrye Museum ...........G2 31 Princess of 71 Worship St
Shoreditch .................. F4 Whistlingæ Sights (p203) Rosa's ................... (see 30) Shop..............................F5
1 19 Princelet St ...............H6 32 Sông Quê........................G2 72 XOYO .............................. F42 Brick Lane Great 33 ST ALi .............................C5 73 Ye Olde Mitre .................B6
Mosque........................H6 34 St John ...........................C6 Zetter Townhouse(see 99)3 Britannic House .............F5 35 St John Bread &4 Bunhill Fields ..................E5 Wine.............................H6 ý Entertainment (p214)5 Charterhouse ................C6 36 Viet Grill..........................G3 74 Comedy Café.................G46 Christ Church 37 Whitecross St 75 Sadler's Wells ................ B3
Spitalfields..................H6 Market ......................... D5Museum of the þ Shopping (p214)
Order of St û Drinking & Nightlife(p210) 76 123 Bethnal GreenJohn ......................(see 7) 333........................(see 60) Road.............................H4
Old Truman 38 93 Feet East...................H5 77 Absolute Vintage...........H6Brewery............. (see 69) 39 Aquarium ....................... F4 78 Backyard Market...........H5
7 St John's Gate ............... C5 40 Bar Kick ..........................G4 79 Brick Lane Market.........H58 Wesley's Chapel.............E5 41 Book Club....................... F4 econe.................... (see 43)9 White Cube Gallery........F4 42 Bridge .............................G3 80 Labour & Wait................H4
43 Café Kick ........................ A4 81 Laden Showroom..........H5ú Eating (p205) 44 Callooh Callay................G4 82 Lesley Craze
Albion......................(see 11) 45 Cargo ..............................G4 Gallery ......................... B510 Allpress Espresso .........H4 46 Catch ..............................G3 83 Magma............................ A5
Bistrot Bruno 47 Dreambags- 84 Mr Start .......................... F4Loubet ............... (see 99) jaguarshoes ................G3 85 No-one............................G3
11 Boundary .......................G4 48 East Village .................... F4 86 Present...........................G412 Brick Lane Beigel 49 Fabric..............................C6 87 Rough Trade East .........H5
Bake.............................H4 50 Filthy MacNasty's ......... A3 88 Spitalfields13 Caravan.......................... A4 51 Fox & Anchor.................C6 Market .........................H614 Cây Tre ............................F4 52 George & Dragon ..........G4 89 Start................................ F4
Clark's................... (see 28) 53 Golden Heart .................H6 Start Menswear... (see 84)15 Coach & Horses ............ A5 54 Happiness 90 Sunday UpMarket.........H616 Eagle ............................... A5 Forgets .........................F3 91 Tatty Devine ..................H417 Exmouth Market ........... A4 55 Horse & Groom .............G518 Eyre Brothers .................F4 56 Jerusalem Tavern ......... B5 ÿ Sleeping (p332)19 Fifteen ............................ E3 57 Loungelover...................H4 92 13 Princelet St ...............H620 Hawksmoor ................... G5 58 Macbeth .........................G3 93 Express by21 Kêu!..................................F4 59 Mason & Taylor .............H4 Holiday Inn.................. F422 Leila's Shop ...................G4 60 Mother Bar.....................G4 Fox & Anchor........ (see 51)23 Les Trois Garçons.........H5 61 Nightjar........................... E4 94 Hoxton Hotel ................. F424 Look Mum No 62 Old Blue Last .................G4 95 Malmaison .....................C6
Hands .......................... D5 63 Plastic People................ F4 96 Rookery..........................C625 Luxe ................................H6 64 Prufrock ......................... A6 97 Rosebery Hall ................B4
Medcalf................. (see 28) 65 Queen of Hoxton............F5 98 Shoreditch26 Modern Pantry .............. B5 66 Red Lion .........................G3 Rooms .........................G527 Morito ............................. A4 67 Ten Bells.........................H6 99 Zetter Hotel ................... B5
CLERKENW
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HACKNEY
River Thames
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Bethnal Green Rd
NewRd
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FenchurchSt
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æ Top Sights (p219) 37 Mirch Masala........................ B6Whitechapel Gallery ............ A6 38 Namô.................................... C3
39 Pavilion................................. C3æ Sights (p219) Tayyabs........................(see 17)
1 Blind Beggar ........................ B5 40 Viajante ................................ B42 East London Mosque .......... B5 41 Wapping Food...................... C73 Execution Dock.................... B7 42 Whitechapel Gallery4 Great Synagogue................. B5 Dining Room ..................... A55 London Fields ...................... B26 London Fields Lido .............. B2 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p229)7 Mile End Park....................... D5 43 Bethnal Green Working8 Olympic Park ........................E2 Men's Club ........................ B49 Ragged School Museum..... D5 44 Britannia............................... D2
10 St Anne's, Limehouse .........D6 45 Captain Kidd ........................ B711 St Augustine's Tower...........B1 46 Carpenter's Arms................ B412 St George-in-the-East ......... B6 Dove Freehouse..........(see 60)13 St George's Town Hall 47 Grapes.................................. D6
Building ............................. B6 48 Indo....................................... B514 St Katharine Docks ............. A7 49 Joiners Arms........................ A415 Sutton House........................C1 Nelsons Head..............(see 64)16 Tower Hamlets Cemetery 50 Palm Tree.............................D4
Park ....................................E4 51 Prospect of Whitby.............. C717 Tower House........................ B5 52 Rhythm Factory................... A618 Trinity Green Almshouses.. B5 53 Royal Inn on the Park .......... C319 V&AMuseum of 54 Royal Oak ............................. A4
Childhood.......................... B4 55 White Swan ..........................D620 Victoria Park ........................D321 Whitechapel Bell Foundry... B5 ý Entertainment (p231)
William Booth Statue . (see 18) 56 Bistrotheque........................ B357 Hackney Empire .................. B2
ú Eating (p224) 58 Wilton's................................. B622 Café Spice Namasté............ A623 Climpson & Sons ................. B3 þ Shopping (p231)
Corner Room ..............(see 40) 59 Beyond Retro....................... B524 Counter Cafe.........................E2 60 Broadway Market ................ B325 E Pellici ................................. B4 61 Burberry Outlet Shop.......... C226 F. Cooke ............................... B3 62 Carhartt Outlet Store.......... B227 Fish House ........................... C3 63 Columbia Road Flower28 Formans ................................E2 Market ............................... A429 Frizzante@City Farm .......... A3 64 Jones Dairy .......................... A430 Gallery Cafe.......................... C431 Green Papaya ...................... B2 ÿ Sleeping (p333)32 Hackney Pearl.......................E2 65 40Winks .............................. C533 Kolapata ............................... B5 Old Ship....................... (see 57)34 Laxeiro.................................. A4 Town Hall Hotel &35 Little Georgia ....................... B3 Apartments..............(see 40)36 Loafing.................................. C3
THE EAST END
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Bride St
Regent Sq
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Pancras Rd
Euston RdArgyle St
St Chad's St
FarringdonRd
Roseb
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Live
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JuddSt
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Pentonville Rd
YorkW
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Uppe
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Upper
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Gray'sInn
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Upper Woburn
Pl
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Brooksby StBewdley StBarnsbury Park
Laycock St
ChaltonSt
Camley St
Offord Rd
Brewery Rd
Cromer St
Bingfield St
Wharton St
College
Cross
Anw
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Rodney
St
RawstorneSt
Hig
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Lofting Rd
Col
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BurtonSt
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Mat
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Market Rd
Harrison St
Madras
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StPaul's
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Pitf
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Bastwick St
Crondall St
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Wenlock
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Purcell St
Kin
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GreatEastern St
St Peter's St
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Lever St
Bath
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Eagle WharfRd
Gosw
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St Paul's Rd Ball's Pond Rd
Old St
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City Rd
Canonbury Rd
Old St
Kin
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East
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Essex
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Alwyne
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Nuttall St
GrangeG
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Tottenham Rd
Bevenden St
Shepperton Rd
PackingtonSq
ArdleighRd
Oakley Rd
Ockendon RdCanonbury Pa rk
Sout
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Halton
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Moreland St
Penn St
De
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Dingley Rd
Paul
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MiddletonRd
Cle
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Cross St
Mintern St
EliaS
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Phill ippSt
Downham RdC
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Act
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Rotherfield St
Elizabeth
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Pitf
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Wenlock St
Dove Rd
Compton St
Buckingham Rd
Chantry St
Mor
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Chart St
Alwyne Rd
Forest Rd
Orm
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St
Lee St
Uft
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Englefield Rd
ArlingtonSq
Basire St
Northchurch Rd
Nile St
Orsman St
Packington St
Ecclesbourne Rd
Leonard St
Provost St
Balmes Rd
SebbonSt
Morton Rd
Prebend StPopham St
Banner St
Cul
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Devo
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Her
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Law
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Graham
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DalstonKingsland
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DalstonJunction
Haggerston
Old St
Essex Rd
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ShoreditchHigh St
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æ Top Sights (p235) 26 Castle ........................................................... D5British Library..............................................A6 Dalston Superstore.......................... (see 38)
27 Egg................................................................ A3æ Sights (p238) 28 Green............................................................D5
1 Eastern Curve Gardens............................. H2 Jazz Bar Dalston...............................(see 40)2 Estorick Collection of Modern Italian 29 Junction.......................................................D2
Art ..............................................................E3 30 Passing Clouds ...........................................H33 Euston Fire Station.....................................A7 31 Public House ...............................................D34 London Canal Museum..............................B5 32 Ruby Lounge............................................... B55 Ridley Road Market ................................... H2 33 Somers Town Coffeehouse ...................... A66 St Pancras Chambers................................A6
ý Entertainment (p251)ú Eating (p245) 34 Arcola Theatre............................................H2
7 A Little of What You Fancy ....................... H3 35 Café Oto.......................................................H28 Acorn House................................................B6 36 London's Little Opera House at the9 Addis.............................................................B6 King's Head Theatre ...............................D4
10 Afghan Kitchen............................................D5 37 O2 Academy Islington ...............................D511 Breakfast Club ............................................D5 38 Rio Cinema...................................................H1
Café Oto .............................................(see 35) 39 Union Chapel...............................................D312 Duke of Cambridge..................................... E5 40 Vortex Jazz Club.........................................H213 Gallipoli.........................................................D414 Georgian Iberian Restaurant.....................C4 þ Shopping (p254)15 Le Mercury...................................................D4 41 Annie's Vintage Costumes & Textiles...... D516 Mangal Ocakbasi......................................... H1 42 Camden Passage........................................ D517 Masala Zone ................................................D4 43 Gill Wing.......................................................D318 Morgan M.....................................................C2 44 Housmans ...................................................B619 Ottolenghi ....................................................D4 45 Past Caring.................................................. E420 Rodizio Rico.................................................D5
ÿ Sleeping (p333)û Drinking & Nightlife (p248) 46 Clink261 .......................................................B6
21 Bar 23 ........................................................... H1 47 Clink78.........................................................C622 Barrio North.................................................E4 48 Premier Inn.................................................. A723 Big Chill House ............................................B6 49 Rough Luxe .................................................B624 Bull ................................................................D4 50 St Pancras Renaissance Hotel ................. A625 Camino.........................................................B6 51 YHA St Pancras International................... A6
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æ Top Sights (p241) û Drinking & Nightlife (p249)Hampstead Heath ......................................B3 13 Boogaloo.......................................................D1Highgate Cemetery ....................................C2 14 Flask Tavern................................................C2Kenwood House..........................................B2 15 Garden Gate................................................B4
16 Holly Bush ................................................... A3æ Sights (p240) 17 Spaniard's Inn............................................. A2
1 Burgh House................................................A32 Fenton House..............................................A3 ý Entertainment (p251)3 Highgate Cemetery Entrances .................D2 18 Bull & Gate...................................................D44 Highgate Wood............................................ C1 19 Everyman Hampstead...............................A45 Keats House ................................................B4 20 Forum...........................................................D46 No 2 Willow Road........................................B47 Parliament Hill.............................................C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p254)8 Sculptures by Henry Moore & Barbara 21 Hampstead Heath Men's Pond ................C3
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ú Eating (p244) 24 Parliament Hill Lido....................................C49 Gaucho Grill .................................................A3
10 La Gaffe........................................................A3 ÿ Sleeping (p334)11 Wells Tavern................................................B3 25 Hampstead Guesthouse ...........................B412 Woodlands...................................................A3
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Eton College Rd
Townshend Rd
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Rhyl St
Prince of Wales Rd
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King Henry's Rd
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æ Top Sights (p237)Camden Market ............................................D3London Zoo....................................................C4
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Mosque........................................................A62 London Zoo (Entrance)................................B43 Primrose Hill..................................................B34 Regent's Park ................................................C5
ú Eating (p243)Bar Gansa .............................................(see 14)
5 Belgo Noord...................................................C26 Engineer .........................................................C37 Haché .............................................................D38 Mango Room .................................................D39 Manna.............................................................B2
10 Marine Ices ....................................................C211 Market ............................................................D312 Mestizo........................................................... E613 York & Albany................................................D4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p248)14 Bar Vinyl.........................................................D315 Black Cap.......................................................D316 Crown & Goose .............................................D417 Edinboro Castle.............................................D418 Lock Tavern ...................................................D2
Proud Camden .................................... (see 28)19 Queen's ..........................................................B3
ý Entertainment (p251)20 Barfly ..............................................................C221 Electric Ballroom ..........................................D322 Jazz Café........................................................D323 Koko................................................................ E424 Lowdown at the Albany................................D725 Roundhouse ..................................................C2
þ Shopping (p254)Buck Street Market .............................(see 21)
26 Canal Market .................................................D227 Lock Market...................................................D228 Stables Market..............................................C2
ÿ Sleeping (p333)29 International Student House....................... D7
York & Albany.......................................(see 13)
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DEPTFORD
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æ Top Sights (p270) Old Brewery ........................................(see 11)Chapel at Old Royal Naval College ...........C2 7 Spread Eagle...............................................C3Discover Greenwich ...................................C2 8 Tai Won Mein .............................................. B2Greenwich Park...........................................D3National Maritime Museum.......................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p285)Nelson Room...............................................C2 9 Cutty Sark Tavern .......................................D1Old Royal Naval College.............................C2 10 Greenwich Union ........................................ B4Painted Hall .................................................C2 11 Old Brewery ................................................C2Peter Harrison Planetarium ......................D3 12 Trafalgar Tavern..........................................C1Ranger's House...........................................C4Royal Observatory......................................D3 ý Entertainment (p288)Statue of General Wolfe.............................D3 13 Laban ........................................................... A3
14 Up the Creek ............................................... B2æ Sights (p273)
1 Cutty Sark....................................................B2 þ Shopping (p289)2 Fan Museum................................................C3 Beehive ............................................... (see 15)3 Queen's House............................................C2 Compendia...........................................(see 5)4 St Alfege Church.........................................B3 15 Emporium.................................................... B2
ú Eating (p281) ÿ Sleeping (p338)5 Greenwich Market ......................................C2 16 Number 16 St Alfege's ...............................B36 Inside ............................................................B3 17 St Christopher's Inn
Nevada Street Deli.............................. (see 7) Greenwich ................................................ B3
GREENW
ICH
Damian Harper Coordinating Author, The South Bank; Kensington & Hyde Park; Green-wich & South London; Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court Born off the Strand within earshot of Bow Bells (favourable wind permitting), Damian grew up in Notting Hill way before it was discovered by Hollywood. A Wykehamist, former Shakespeare and Company bookseller and linguist with two degrees, Damian has been authoring guidebooks for Lonely Planet since the late 1990s. He lives
in South London with his wife and two kids. Damian also wrote the Plan section, the Understand section, Museums & Galleries Overview, Entertainment Overview, Sports & Activities Overview.
Steve Fallon Day Trips from London After more than a decade of living in the centre of the known universe (East London) Steve Cockney-rhymes in his sleep, eats jellied eel for brekkie, drinks lager by the bucketful and dances round the occasional handbag. For this edition he went bush and is happy to report that there is life beyond the M25. Steve is a newly qualifi ed Blue Badge London guide.
Emilie Filou The West End, Hampstead & North London, Notting Hill & West London Emilie was born in Paris, where she lived until she was 18. Following her three-year degree and three gap years, she found herself in London, fell in love with the place and never really left. She now works as a journalist, specialising in Africa. Emilie also wrote Eating Overview, Drinking & Nightlife Overview, Gay & Lesbian Overview, Shopping Overview, Transport, Directory.
Sally Schafer The City, Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfi elds, East End & Docklands Having lived in east London for over 10 years, in the shadow of the emerging Olympic Park for four, and worked in Clerkenwell and Old St for the last six, Sally had a whale of a time re-exploring her own backyard. She usually goes by the title of Associate Publisher in Lonely Planet’s London offi ce but has also written about London, Spain and Portugal on previous offi ce fl its.
Contributing Writer Vesna Maric wrote the With Kids chapter and has lived in London for 15 years. She has been delighted to discover an entirely new side of the city since having her daughter Frida, a year and a half ago. She looks forward to showing her the citý s wonderful array of off erings in the years to come.
Read more about Emilie at:lonelyplanet.com/members/emiliefi lou
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 898 2© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day One The West End (p 78 )
M First stop, Trafalgar Square for its architectural grandeur and photo-
op views down Whitehall to Big Ben. Art lovers will make an instant break for the National Gallery while the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Buckingham Palace can all be reached on foot. If the sun’s out, seize a sandwich and race to the grass of leafy St James’s Park.
South Bank (p 162 )
R Walk across Westminster Bridge to Waterloo and, with your pre-booked
ticket for the London Eye, enjoy a revolu-tion in the city skies and astronomical views (if the weather’s clear). Sashay along the South Bank and head down the ramp into the bowels of the Tate Modern for some grade-A art. Aim your camera at St Paul’s Cathedral on the far side of the elegant Millennium Bridge and don’t forget Shakespeare’s Globe.
Southwark & South Bank (p 162 )
N Southwark Cathedral is well worth a gander and if Borough Market’s
open, follow your nostrils to some fi ne snack-ing on the move. Take to the terrace of the Anchor Bankside to sup on a post-dinner glass but have your camera primed again for the views. Alternatively, sink a drink in the historic George Inn on Borough High St or have theatre tickets booked for the Globe, the National Theatre or the Old Vic.
Day Two The City (p 139 )
M London’s fi nance-driven Square Mile is home to the must-see sights of St
Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of Lon-don, both of which will require time. This is the oldest part of town, so there are plentiful churches and historic buildings, while in-novative chunks of modern architecture also pierce the sky. Don’t overlook the Museum of London if there’s time and, of course, views of iconic Tower Bridge and the river.
The West End (p 78 )
R Stand amid the swirling traffi c at Pic-cadilly Circus before exploring well-
heeled Mayfair, bustling Chinatown and historic Soho, then head to Covent Garden Piazza to watch the street performers and shop. Alternatively, save some calories for tackling the immensity of the British Mu-seum in Bloomsbury or window shop your way along Oxford Street to Marble Arch and on into Hyde Park.
The West End (p 78 )
N Relax on the grass of Green Park or St James’s Park as lights prepare to
sparkle across the West End. Squeeze into French House for a quick pint, aim for one of the neighbourhood’s outstanding dining options and have theatre tickets booked way ahead for a hit musical in London’s ‘theatre-land’.
Lunch National Dining Rooms (p 121 ) in the National Gallery: fantastic choice.
Dinner Skylon (p 173 ) for top views, but book well ahead.
Lunch The Restaurant at St Paul’s (p 157 ) is a handy choice.
Dinner Yauatcha (p 116 ) for excellent Chinese food.
Top Itineraries
20
Day Three Kensington, Chelsea & Knightsbridge (p 181 )
M Make for South Kensington to explore the Victoria & Albert Museum
or the Natural History Museum, before roaming around Hyde Park and Kensing-ton Palace. Shop along Kensington High Street, the King’s Road or head to Knights-bridge and get swept away by the crowds in Harrods. For peace and quiet, head to the Chelsea Physic Garden, a walled botani-cal haven near the River Thames, or ex-plore tranquil Carlyle’s House. For full-on historic grandeur, take in Apsley House.
Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfi elds (p 201 )
R Wander around Georgian Spi-talfi elds and explore the cultural
diversity along Brick Lane, size up con-temporary art at the White Cube Gallery and the intriguing interiors of the Geff rye Museum before digging out some history at St John’s Gate. For a quiet escape, hunt down the tombs and graves of the famous in Bunhill Fields.
North London (p 233 )
N For nightlife, head north – week-ends, especially, are buzzing: head to
Dalston for ultra-hip clubs, Camden for live music. You can fi nd excellent gastropubs, pubs, bars and DJ bars right across the neighbourhood, but focal points are Hamp-stead, Islington, Camden and King’s Cross.
Day Four Greenwich (p 268 )
M Greenwich’s architectural and mari-time sights are world-renowned but
there are also lovely village charms and some tremendous pubs, some of them right on the riverbank. Sights such as the Royal Observatory, National Maritime Mu-seum and Old Royal Naval College are near each other, so sightseeing can easily be done on foot.
Kew Gardens, Hampton Court Palace (p 291 )
R Choose between one of these two spectacular sights to fl ee urban
London and swallow up an afternoon of sightseeing: Hampton Court Palace for astonising Tudor brickwork and interiors, Kew Gardens for a botanical wonderland, some magnifi cent Victorian glasshouse architecture and an 18th-century Chinese pagoda. Alternatively, head to Richmond for its leisurely riverside ambience and views.
Notting Hill and West London (p 256 )
N Round off the day with a pint in the garden at the Windsor Castle
pub or another of the drinking houses between Kensington High Street and Not-ting Hill Gate. For something diff erent, dress up and ascend to the nightclub in the Kensington Roof Gardens – a club high above Kensington High St with half a hec-tare of gardens and four pink fl amingos.
Lunch Zuma (p 196 ) for top-notch Japanese cuisine.
Dinner Moro (p 205 ) serves splendid North African–Spanish fusion food.
Lunch The Old Brewery (p 282 ) is great for Modern British cuisine.
Dinner Tatra (p 261 ) for classic Polish dishes.
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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