Weft Knitting PDF

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North Carolina State UniversityOmcc of Cootinlling Eduation and Rofariod Development Dirkion of Univerdty Ertcadon

MEMORAHDUH TO:

Short Course Participants

Tho Offico of Continuing Education C Profomsional Dovelopment (OCECPD) welcomes you to this North Carolina State University short

course. We hope your e%periences here are pleasant and rewarding. If you have noeds while you aro h u e that aren't baing met, please let um know. liko to call your attontion to o n important a8pect of your . You will be awarded Continuing participation in thi8 cour80. Education U i . (CEDs) for muccessful completion of this program. nt One CEU is awarded for u c h 10 hour8 of iMtruction, with the undustanding that tho 8tudurtmut bo pro8ont for at least 908 of the instruction. The CW is a nationally recognized uniform unit of moamuramont providing the participant vith educational units which can be accumulated and u e d a8 evidence of profemsional development. In an incrusing number of irutances, CEWS are used for certification, licuming and am a factor in promotion.

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The staff greatly appreciate. your comment. about the program you are attending. We also welcome suggestions for new courses to meet your educational needs, as we are continually goarching for subject areas not included in t h o more than 600 conferences, workshops, short courses and seminars now being .offered. Again, we are pleased to have the opportunity to s e n e you and hope you return often.

B. Marston, Director of Continuing Education Professional Development

North Carolina State University College of TextilesThe North Carolina State University College of Textiles Serves the citizens of Nonh Carolina through .education. research and extension programs. Founded in 1899, this institution with an enrollment of close to 1.OOO students, now dominates textile education in the United States. At the present time, nearly half of all textile university-based undergraduate degrees are awarded here. Fifty percent of all masters candidates and 75 percent of all textile Ph.D.s are currently enrolled in the college. Reflecting the diversity of the industry itself. the curriculum includes Bachelor of Science degrees in texules, textile and apparel managemenL textile science, textile engineering and textile chemistry. Within some of these degree programs, a student may specialize in textile design. textile technology. textile management, apparel management, polymer chemistry. dyeing and finishing science, dyeing and finishing technology, and dyeing and finishing management students interested in pursuing advanced degrees in scientific and technical disciplines. Students studying textile chemistry can concentrate on dyeing and fmishing science, polymer science,dyeing and finishing operations. and dyeing and finishing management. These students are in great demand in the numerous textde operations that emphasize dyeing and fmishing. many of which are located in North Carolina. or in polymer-related research and development activities throughout the fiber and textile indusmes. Students studying textile engineering leam how to apply scientific principles and engineering prar;tices to the widely diversified aspects of texule processes. products and machinery. This degree program is operawf jointly with the College of Engineering. The NCSU College of Textiles offers

m a programs leading to the Master of Science. ut e Master of Textiles. and Doctor of Philosophy degrees.Graduates with advanced textile degrees are constantly in short supply and great demand.

The textiles degree program is designed to provide a broad foundarion in textile technology. beginning with the basic raw material and progressing through to the finished fabric. Students enrolled in this curriculum may sptcialize further in the areas of textile design or advanced textile technology. Textiles program graduates typically fill design and manufacturing management positions in fiber and texule manufacturing fms.Students enrolled in the textile and apparel management program will obtain a solid background in texules, in addition to management concepts and applications. Specializationsin textile management or apparel management arc possible. Graduates of hese programs are in demand t fill positions in o production, tezhnical services, sales, markuing. purchasing, personnel and other related management and staff functions.

The curriculum of the college i v e d e and s comprehensive, providing instruction both on and off campus. Extension programs provide numerous short courses, conferences and workshops on a grtat variety of subjects o interest to the fiber, textile and apparel f industries. In addition to these programs, Textiles Extension also offers a wide variety of in-plant courses.Credit courses via the Textile Off-Campus Televised Education (TOTE)Program are offered internationally. Enrollment averages approximately 160 students pcr academic year. Courses are offered at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Students can eam a Master of Textiles with a specialization in Textile and Apparel Management and Technology: Textile Engineering and Science: and Textile Chemistry. TOTE classes an available to any individual seeking an improved textdes education or background. In addition a visual aid rental seMce is available u) the industry.

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Another program offering outstanding opportunities for students is the textile science program. which emphasizes research, development, o and applications of advanced technology t the fiber and textile industries. It is also a good choice for

WEFT KNITTING FUNDAMENTALS

BUS SCHEDULEAUGUST 22 - 25,1994 Monday, August 227:45am 4:OOpm 6:30pm 9:OOpm

Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College o Textiles to Embassy Suites f Embassy Suites to Simpsons Simpsons to Embassy Suites

Tuesday, August 23 8:OOam 4:OOpm Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

Wednesday,August 24 8:OOam 4:OOpm Embassy Suites to College o Textiles f College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

Thursday, August 25 8:OOam12:OO noon

Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

WEFT KNITTING FUNDAMENTALS Gary W. Smith1 Knitting Yarns: . A. Yarn Classifications: a. Spun:

Singles vs. Plied Spun Yam Classifications And Comparisons Ring Open-End Carded Combed strengthcost

uniformity twist cover count range

b. Filament: Flat vs. Textured

Influence of Filament Count and Stretch

1

c. Elastomeric:Elastomeric Yam Comparisons Bare Single Covered Double Coveredcost

extensibility stability B. Implications of New Yam Developments: a. package sizehhape

.

b. uniformityc. friction

d. joining techniques C. Yarn Requirements: a. strength b. count variation c. uniformity d. twist e. friction

f. elongationg. colorhhade

h. packaging

2

D. Yam Numbering Systems: a. Indirect: Cotton Count: number of 840 yard lengths per pound Comparisons of Yam Counts 20/1 30/1 3012

costthickness uniformity b. Direct: Denier: weight in grams of 9000 meters of y a m Decitex: weight in grams of 10000 meters of yam Comparisons of Yam Deniers 1/70/13 l/70/34 2/70/34 cost thickness Uniformity Count Importances:

2. Weft Knitting: A. Classifications: a. Structure aa. Jersey--

bb. Rib

cc. Purl

3

Knitting

4

Weft Knitting Machine

_-

5

Weft Knitting

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k ]&E%Neech

4 I1

6

b. Machine aa. Single Cylinder

bb. Dial and Cylinder

3cc. V-Bed dd. Purl

c. Format aa. Tubular

bb. Flat

d. Diameter aa. Small

bb. Large

B. Definitions:a. Course: - a horizontal row of loops W

Feeder: - an actual course Visual: - a visual course CPI:b. Wale: - a vertical column of loops

WPI: Knit loop: Tuck loop: e. Float loop:C.

7

Single Jersey

Technical Face

Technical Back

8

9

f. Feeder: - a unit which guides a yam to the needles

g. Needle: - an element which forms loops and wales

';1

h. Sinker: - an element on jersey machines which assists needles hold fabric during knittingi. Tricks: - slots which guide needles during knittingj. Cylinder: - a cylinder drum which contains slots, needles and

(sometimes)sinkers k. Dial: - a horizontal plate which contains slots and horizontal needles

1. Loop Length: - the average amount of yam in a loopm.Course length: - the amount of yam required t o knit one complete course cnruuy Run-In: Ravel length: Draw: n. GuageKut: - normally the number of needles per inch Gaiting: - the arrangement of two sets of needles Rib Gaiting: cr/

u77

IIIIIIIIIIII

0.

77

Interlock Gaiting:p. Timing: - relative movement between two sets of needles or~

--

needles and sinkersq. Negative Feed: - yam pulled from the yam package by the action of the needles

1 0

r. Positive Feed: - yarn metered to the needles at a preset rate s. Yield: - the weight per unit of fabric Oz/yd2: Oflinear yard: Yarddpound: Conversions:

11

C. Knitted Fabric Properties: a. Stretch and Recover:

b. Shrinkage:

c. Crease Resistance:

d. Spirality:

e. Snagging:

f. Pilling:

g. Bulk:

12

D. Notation: a. Verbal:

b. Graphic:c. Symbolic:Knit Face Rear Tuck Face Rear Float Face Rear

B E IExamples:

E l m

17

0

d. Diagrammatic:mit(Face)

G

Knit (Rear) Tuck(Rear) Floatwear)

2LAA

Tuck(Face) \d Float (Face) Y Interlock Gaiting0

m c

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