khaleej times Friday, December 11, 2009 fashion 16 LookoftheWeek I f a suit makes the man, then Fall/Winter 2009 and Spring/Summer 2010 are the defining seasons. From New York to Milan and Paris to as far flung as Japan, suits reigned supreme. There were double-breasted; single-breasted; three- piece varieties; casual cool offerings with suit jackets, shirts and ties paired with denim; patterned; classics; slimmer silhouettes; varying pant lengths and fresh colour palettes. One of our absolute favourites? Bottega Veneta S/S 2010. One part Milanese gentle- man and one part American Gigolo, with its sultry colours and refined tailoring and fit. [email protected] S herlock Holmes, the fictional detective for hire, conjured up by the imagination of Sir Arthur Ig- natius Conan Doyle, whose brilliant powers of deduction and science spurred five novels, 50+ short stories, TV programs and films, provided the cre- ative backdrop for many F/W 2009 collections — notably Alexander McQueen’s men’s collection. Doyle’s Holmes character had a penchant for wearing suits, vests, a dual-bill cap, nursing a pipe, a Scottish high- lands-inspired cape/coat, as well as on occasion, sporting a walking stick. Many of these Holmes-esque pieces showed up on McQueen’s runway in one form or another. There were the bowler top hats that Doctor Watson, Hol- mes’ constant companion wore, walking sticks, gloves, three piece suiting, layers, herringbone vests, watch chains, fitted double-breasted plaid suits and plaid separates, fur and an ever-present ghastly palour and scowl. One surmises it rep- resented Holmes’ serious manner and cool exterior, as well as his nocturnal nature. McQueen modernised the Holmes character with head scarves/do rags under the bowler hats; fingerless gloves re- placed the typical leather gloves that may have existed in the 1800s; fur overcoats loosely worn over the shoulders as capes; silver skull-tipped walking sticks that Holmes would surely have carried in The Hound of the Baskervilles; along with iri- descent materials; mohair wools; opulent sweaters; a modern moody colour palette and his signature: tailored, cut and fit. McQueen was prescient with his SH F/W collection as another remake is on its way for 2010, this time with Rockn- Rolla, Snatch and Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels direc- tor Guy Ritchie at the helm. In this remake, Robert Downey Jr plays Holmes to Jude Law’s Watson, with martial arts, cunning, off-colour humour, feminine wiles and McQueen- esque fashions in tow. Similarities between the runway and celluloid can be wit- nessed in the bowler hats, the caps, the three-piece suiting, the vests, plaids, and the muscled Alexander vest played out in the flesh with Downey Jr’s bare chest in a fight scene and Watson’s perfectly turned out suiting. It is one of the best collections of the season, both in its concept, tailoring and execution. The collection played to McQueens’ dark, moody side with brilliant effect, highlight- ing his innate ability to entertain, captivate and titillate. [email protected] Stephanie Rivers The Sherlock Holmes Effect The Nattily Dressed Detective is the perfect muse for suiting and deduction for Fall 2009 A well-suited man sets the tone for F/W 2009

Weekly International Fashion Column

Download PDF Report

Upload
stephanie-rivers
View
224
Download
1

Tags:

Embed Size (px)

DESCRIPTION

My weekly fashion column printed and distributed in the Middle East. Responsibilities include overseeing design and writing content

Citation preview

Page 1: Weekly International Fashion Column

khaleej times Friday, December 11, 2009

fashion16

LookoftheWeek

If a suitmakes theman, then Fall/Winter 2009 and Spring/Summer 2010 are thedefining seasons. From New York to Milan and Paris to as far flung as Japan,suits reigned supreme. There were double-breasted; single-breasted; three-piece varieties; casual cool offerings with suit jackets, shirts and ties pairedwith denim; patterned; classics; slimmer silhouettes; varying pant lengths and

fresh colour palettes.One of our absolute favourites? Bottega Veneta S/S 2010. One part Milanese gentle-

man and one part AmericanGigolo, with its sultry colours and refined tailoring and [email protected]

Sherlock Holmes, the fictional detective for hire,conjured up by the imagination of Sir Arthur Ig-natius ConanDoyle, whose brilliant powers of de-duction and science spurred five novels, 50+ shortstories, TV programs and films, provided the cre-

ative backdrop for many F/W 2009 collections — notablyAlexanderMcQueen’smen’s collection.Doyle’s Holmes character had a penchant for wearing

suits, vests, a dual-bill cap, nursing a pipe, a Scottish high-lands-inspired cape/coat, as well as on occasion, sporting awalking stick. Many of these Holmes-esque pieces showeduponMcQueen’s runway inone formoranother.Therewere the bowler top hats thatDoctorWatson,Hol-

mes’constantcompanionwore,walkingsticks,gloves,threepiece suiting, layers, herringbone vests,watch chains, fitteddouble-breasted plaid suits and plaid separates, fur and anever-present ghastly palour and scowl.One surmises it rep-resentedHolmes’ seriousmanner and cool exterior, as wellashisnocturnalnature.McQueen modernised the Holmes character with head

scarves/do rags under the bowler hats; fingerless gloves re-placed the typical leather gloves that may have existed in the1800s; fur overcoats looselywornover the shoulders as capes;silver skull-tipped walking sticks that Holmes would surelyhave carried in The Hound of the Baskervilles; along with iri-descentmaterials;mohairwools; opulent sweaters; amodernmoodycolourpaletteandhissignature:tailored,cutandfit.McQueen was prescient with his SH F/W collection as

another remake is on itsway for 2010, this timewithRockn-Rolla,SnatchandLock, StockandTwoSmokingBarrelsdirec-torGuyRitchie at the helm. In this remake, Robert DowneyJr plays Holmes to Jude Law’s Watson, with martial arts,cunning, off-colour humour, feminine wiles andMcQueen-esque fashions in tow.Similarities between the runway and celluloid canbewit-

nessed in the bowler hats, the caps, the three-piece suiting,the vests, plaids, and themuscledAlexander vest playedoutin the fleshwithDowney Jr’s bare chest in a fight scene andWatson’sperfectly turnedout suiting.It is one of the best collections of the season, both in its

concept, tailoring and execution. The collection played toMcQueens’ dark,moodysidewithbrilliant effect, highlight-inghis innateability toentertain, captivateand titillate.

[email protected]

StephanieRivers

The SherlockHolmesEffect

TheNattilyDressedDetective is theperfectmuse for suitinganddeduction forFall 2009

Awell-suitedmansets the tone forF/W2009

HolmesHolmes