FASH 15 textiles

yarn classification

yarns

contribute significantly to fabric and product performance

selection affects the fabric’s hand, appearance, drape, durability, comfort & many other areas of performance

fiber length

spun yarn—composed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with protruding ends

filament yarn—composed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted•smooth filament yarns—straight, almost parallel fibers•textured-bulk-filament yarns—uniformly bulky

yarn twist

twist—•spiral arrangement of fibers around yarn’s axis•produced by rotating one end while holding the other stationary•binds fibers together & contributes to strength•Specified by number of turns per unit length—turns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm)

direction—

yarn twist

amount of twist—•low twist—used to maintain integrity within smooth, multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inch•napping twist—lofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of napped fabrics•average twist—most common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarns•hard twist—harsher hand & more turns per inch•crepe yarns—highest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when removed from fabric

yarn size

yarn number—size or fineness•filament yarns—weight per unit length•spun yarns—length per unit weight; generally the finer the yarn, the larger the number

denier system—•describes yarn size using filament fibers•weight in grams per 9,000 meters

tex system—•determines yarn number in the same way for all yarns•weight in grams per 1,000 meters

yarn regularity

describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its length in terms of appearance & structure

simple yarns—•alike in all its parts•spun or filament yarn

single yarn—•one strand•simplest type

yarn regularity—simple yarns

ply yarn—made by second twisting operation that combines two or more singles

cord—made by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns together

rope—heavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or braided together

yarn regularity—sewing & embroidery thread

sewing thread—•yarn intended for stitching materials together•available in broad range of sizes & structures•often finished with lubricant or wax•most sewing thread is S twist

embroidery thread—•yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on textile surface•most often 2-ply, Z twist

yarn regularity—fancy yarns

yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervals•irregularities may be subtle or very obvious•intervals may be regular or random•classified according to number of parts•named for effect that dominates fabric

yarn regularity—fancy yarns

yarn regularity—fancy yarns

•tweed yarn•slub yarn•spiral or corkscrew•ratine yarns•knot, spot, nub, or knop•spike or snarl•loop, curl or boucle yarn•metallic•chenille•braided•knit•stitched

yarn regularity—composite yarns

have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components

include:•covered yarns—central yarn completely covered by fiber or another yarn•core-spun yarns—spun sheath of staple fibers around a core•filament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)—have staple fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibers•multi-polymer yarns—produced by pressing staple fibers of any length or generic class in molten polymer stream•fasciated yarns—grouping of filament fibers wrapped with staple fibers

yarn performance & yarn quality

identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is used in fabric & product

standard test methods determine:•yarn size•twist•bulk•evenness•appearance•performance

yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength and uniformity—more parallel fibers, tighter twist, more regular

participation activity—fancy yarns identification

…using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the following types of fancy yarns:•tweed yarn•slub yarn•spiral or corkscrew•ratine yarns•knot, spot, nub, or knop•spike or snarl

…select 7 different fancy yarns from “yarn grab bag”…mount them to your yarn identification sheet…identify them using the text and complete the information required

•loop, curl or boucle yarn•metallic•chenille•braided•knit•stitched