SUMMER - FALL 2018 RECIPES

We usually think of beer as the beverage of choice with Mexican food. It certainly works but as Mexico produces more and more outstanding wines they and they and we have found that wine is also a good accompaniment. Ground zero for excellent wine production in Mexico is in the Northern part of Baja (Valle de Guadalupe) in which you'll find many outstanding whites and reds. This edition of recipes draws on the exceptional and varied cuisines of Mexico. For wine to work with Mexican flavors it must have both good acidity and lush fruit. ¡Buen provecho.

SOPA DE LIMA(Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime)

Serves 8 or more

Typical of flavors found in the Yucatan. And yes . . . you can have wine with soup. Something with matching acidity like a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay.

Coconut or olive oil for fryingOne 8-ounce package yellow or white corn tortillas, sliced into strips 1/4 inch by 2 inches 1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds)2 medium white onions, peeled, halved and sliced lengthwise4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced2 medium fresh poblano peppers, stemmed, seeded and diced1 teaspoon ground cumin2 teaspoons oregano, preferably Mexican1 teaspoon fennel seed2 teaspoons pure chile powder such as ancho or 1/2 teaspoon chile flakes3 cups or so quartered tomatillos2 cups cooked long-grain white rice Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper5 large limes, 4 juiced and one cut into wedges for garnishAccompaniments: Sliced jalapeños, cilantro sprigs, avocado slices, crumbled cotija cheese and reserved tortilla strips

Line a plate with a paper towels. Add an inch of oil to a deep sauce pan and over moderately high heat, fry the tortilla strips until crisp and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the tortilla strips to the towel-lined plate and let them cool.

Nestle the chicken in a large stock pot and pour enough water into the pot to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium-high heat and then immediately reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and very gently simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the meat shreds easily with a fork, about 1-1/2 hours.

Remove the chicken from the pot and place on a plate to rest until it’s cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skin. Pull the meat from the bone, discarding bones, shred or tear it and set aside.

Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids and set aside. Wipe out the pot, add 2 tablespoons of oil and over moderate heat, sauté the onions, garlic, poblano, cumin, oregano, fennel seed and chile until vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes. Add 6 cups or so of the stock, tomatillos, reserved chicken and simmer for 10 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper, more chile powder and lime juice (at least 3 tablespoons) to your taste..

Add a scoop of rice to warm bowls and ladle soup over. Pass accompaniments separately and allow each guest to add to his or her bowl as desired.

Ladle the soup into bowls, being certain to scoop some rice from the bottom of the pot, and serve with the lime, sliced jalapeño, crumbled Cotija cheese, sliced avocado, and tortilla strips on the side for each person to add to his or her bowl as desired.

ENCHILADAS SUIZAS DE PAVA (Turkey Enchiladas in Tomatillo Cream Sauce)

Serves 4 - 6

This cheesy, creamy dish originated at a Sanborns cafe in Mexico City in 1950. Its name, "Swiss enchiladas," in English refers to its copious use of dairy. You could use chicken here too and I often make these with crab meat or the slow cooked pork recipe below. A creamy balanced chardonnay would be wonderful here.

1 1⁄2 pounds tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed (about 12) 2 serrano chiles, stemmed1 cup roughly chopped cilantro1 cup sour cream1/2 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped2 mild Anaheim chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and roughly choppedKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste1 cup canola oil3 cups cooked shredded turkey thigh (recipe follows)2 cups cups shredded queso Oaxaca or mozzarella8 (6") corn tortillas

Arrange an oven rack 4″ from the broiler and heat broiler to high. Place tomatillos and serranos on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, turning as needed, until blackened all over, about 10 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes, and then peel and discard charred skins. Transfer to a blender along with any juices, cilantro, sour cream, cumin, garlic, poblanos, and 1 cup boiling water; season with salt and pepper, and purée until smooth. Set enchilada sauce aside.

Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, grasp tortillas with tongs and fry in oil until pliable, about 1 minute. Transfer tortillas to a work surface. Place turkey in a bowl and toss with 1 cup enchilada sauce until evenly coated. Divide sauced turkey evenly among tortillas, and roll tortillas tightly around turkey. Pour about 1 cup enchilada sauce in the bottom of a 9″ x 13″ baking dish, and place tortilla rolls in dish, seam side down, creating one row down the center of the dish. Pour remaining enchilada sauce over rolls, and cover evenly with cheese.

Heat oven to 375°. Bake enchiladas until sauce is bubbling and cheese is melted on top, 20 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool for a few minutes before serving with lots of sauce.

Poached turkey thigh

2 cups chopped cilantro stems1 teaspoon cumin seeds1 medium onion, chopped4 large garlic cloves, chopped2 bay leaves2 teaspoons salt plus more to taste1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes1 cup dry white wine6 cups water1 3-pound or so bone in turkey thigh

Add everything to a deep sauce pan or soup pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook slowly until turkey is very tender, about 2 hours. Set turkey aside to cool. Remove and discard skin and bones. Chop or shred turkey meat. Strain poaching liquid discarding solids and season to your taste with salt. Save stock for a delicious soup or sauce base.

PALETA DE CERDO (Slow cooked Mexican style pork shoulder)

Serves 8 – 10

Slow, long cooking is the key to making this dish meltingly tender. To make it even more Mexican, shred or chop the meat with its juices and then roll up in warm tortillas along with shredded cabbage, chopped avocadoes, tomatoes, sweet white onion, some cilantro leaves and lime wedges to squeeze juice over. If you own a crock pot this is a great recipe for this useful appliance. Serve with rice and/or black beans and a glass of Pinot Noir.

3 tablespoons olive oil5 pounds or so bone in pork shoulderSalt and freshly ground pepper2 large onions, chopped (about 3 cups)8 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped2 tablespoons chopped chipotle chile in adobo, or to taste2 cups diced canned or fresh tomatoes1 tablespoon crushed cumin seeds2 teaspoons whole fennel seed1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican3 cups hearty red wine1-1/2 cups orange juice2 tablespoons brown sugar

In a deep pot or Dutch oven with a cover, add the olive oil and heat over moderately high heat. Season the pork liberally with salt and freshly ground pepper and sear on all sides until nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Remove pork and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat.

Add the onions and garlic to pot and sauté over moderate heat until lightly browned. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer, stirring to combine. Add pork back to pot, cover a place in a preheated 325 degree oven for 3 hours or until meat is very tender and falls easily off the bone.

Remove meat, discarding bone, to a serving bowl and cover with foil to keep warm. Allow braising liquid to sit at room temperature to facilitate removal of fat and remove and discard as much as you can from the surface. Strain defatted juices if desired, pushing down on solids and discarding them. You can also skip this step if you like yours a little more “rustic”. Return juices to pan and bring to a simmer and then pour over meat. Serve immediately.

OSTIONES CON HUEVOS DE SALMÓN(Fresh oysters with Salmon Caviar)

Makes 12 serving 4 as a starter

Oysters on the half shell are one of my favorite things. The Mexican influenced recipe includes an adaptation of "Hog Wash", from our friends at Hog Island Oyster Company. Salmon caviar is widely available on the internet if your local fish market doesn't carry (I'll bet they'd order it for you!). One of my favorite sources is from Tsar Nicoulai Caviar in San Francisco. www.tsarnicoulai.com This is a perfect match for a crisp sparkling wine or Champagne.

12 very fresh half shell oystersCoarse Salt"Hog Wash" (recipe follows)Fresh salmon caviar

Shuck the oysters leaving meat on the half shell. Place on a bed of salt to prevent the oysters from tipping. Top oysters with a little of the "Hog Wash" and then some fresh salmon caviar.

Hog Wash (adapted from Hog Island Oyster Company)

1/2 cup natural rice vinegar1 teaspoon sugar1 tablespoon peeled and finely diced shallot2 teaspoons seeded and finely diced Jalapeno pepper, or to taste1 tablespoon fresh lime juice3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

Stir first 5 ingredients together until sugar dissolves. Stir in cilantro just before serving.

John Ash (c) 2018