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Wearable Technology: Fashion Meets Applied Science

Cody Owens

Communication Studies at

University of South Carolina Upstate 445 Motlow School Road

Campobello, SC 29322 owensch@email.uscupstate.edu

ABSTRACT Upon extensive research of the advancements in wearable technology, it is easily concluded that

the technology could prove useful in the future. As wearable technology is now merely emerging from its infancy, it is advisable to wait a

considerable amount of time before implementing it in our company.

Several areas of wearable technology include, but are not limited to, wearable computers, second

skins (or memory-rich clothing), digital jewelry and Personal Area Networks (PANs). Wearable computers are just that, computing devices that

have left the desk and entered the world of fashion. Second skins act as additional sensory

organs placed on larger surface areas of the exterior of the body, making them much closer to „fashion technology‟ than wearable computers.

Digital jewelry, on the other hand, is definitely „fashion technology‟; digital jewelry is the next

step in the evolution of wearable technology. Lastly, Personal Area Networks essentially make one‟s body a portable network, allowing for

greater versatility, accessibility of information and communication.

Wearable computers are what most would typically conceive as wearable technology. They

boast designs and features that mirror what one may see in futuristic films. The two main trends

of devices such as these are miniaturization and multiple functionalities. Wearable computers can be viewed as the next step in the world of

computing: personal computers turn into laptops, which give way to wearable computers. In order

to condense the existing computers into wearable pieces, the components are broken down and

miniaturized and allocated to various parts of the body where their functions are best suited. Second skins are less computational and more

communicative and memory-oriented. They draw on the idea that clothing and the human skin have

many parallels which be technologically utilized. While second skin devices are typically used in medical and military research, to communicate

from patient/solider to resources, their potential for use in everyday life is immense. Digital

jewelry already has use in everyday life. It draws on the concept that computation functionality and social/fashionable functionality can be

intertwined. As with wearable computers, digital jewelry allows one to take apart functions of

various devices and disperse them to more functional locations on the body while also making “fashion statements.” Lastly, PANs have

large implications for the future. They essentially turn the human body into a biological conductor,

which can communicate information to outside sources and turn a human into an all- in-one device.

While the potential of wearable technology is

unfathomably and potentially advantageous, its lack of development is a deterrent to current application.

1. INTRODUCTION Firstly, it is important to think of these technologies as „wearable‟ instead of as „fashion‟

technologies. The word „fashion‟ tags on a connotation of the world of high fashion but

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stylishness is really a minute component of these technologies. They are structures that incorporate

wearability but have, as of yet, failed to merge fully with the world of stylishness. In talking

about wearable technologies, this paper will solely talk about how technology is turning toward wearability instead of vice versa.

Secondly, it is imperative to keep in mind that the

potentialities discussed, in general, only breeze the surface of what these technologies are capable. The synopses of these various

technologies are mere insights into the implications of their power and future utility.

2. WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY? Defining what constitutes wearable technology is

and is not can be tricky. The wide array of possibilities makes it nearly impossible to dictate

what are relevant to the topic. In one attempt, each technology will begin with two major trends of the structures to somewhat narrow the focus of

what each technology is about. In another attempt, a definition is given in terms of three

„versus.‟ Fashion vs. Technology. As aforementioned, this

paper will foremost discuss technology and how it is becoming wearable, not technology as it is

used to create fashion. For instance, Suzanne Lee of London‟s Central Saint Martin‟s College of Art and Design has developed what Time

magazine declared one of 2010‟s top 50 best inventions of the year: biocouture. Essentially,

biocouture refers to the process of adding bacteria to a green tea solution in which each bacterium spins the tea fibers into fibril „mats.‟

These mats rise to the surface of the solution, having been spun together, creating a small fabric

of sorts. Lee has then painstakingly sewn these denim-like mats together to form jackets. [5] In this way, she has used science to form fashion.

This is not the focus of our discussion. Our discussion focuses on how wearability (or

fashion) is being used to form technology, such as the wearable computer.

Function vs. Responsiveness. One may assert that a watch is technically a wearable technology. It is

quite frankly a technical device that is worn on the wrist. However, a watch, in general, serves a

specific purpose; it tells time. An individual cannot interact with a watch and, similarly, a watch cannot interact with an individual.

Wearable technologies are more „smart‟ [5] technologies, or A.R.T.S (Adaptive and

Responsive Textile Structures). [4] The wearable technologies discussed here by and large do not serve a singular function and are in some way

able to interact with the user or possess the ability to be interacted with by the user.

Past vs. Future. One last feature of wearable technologies that must be stated is their duration

in the field of technology. Wearable technology is not only a thing of the future but also a thing of

the near past. Research has been conducted for decades on various structures and the research is much more common than one may think. [2]

However, one must bear in mind that the implications of these technologies are only going

to hold significance if they identify “applications that have value beyond the initial novelty.” [2] In this manner, our company truly ought to wait to

potentially apply wearable technology but maintain a vigilant eye on its developments.

3. TECHNOLOGIES AND DEVICES Again, it must be reiterated that the technologies

and devices discussed ought not to limit one‟s perception of what wearable technology is, is not

or could be. Also, while two trends will be attributed to each technology, as this paper discusses „wearable‟ technology, mobility is an

overarching motif of each device and ought to be considered in developing any wearable

technology.

3.1 Wearable Computers Wearable computers are probably the most blatant example of wearable technology. Quite

literally, wearable computers are computing devices that are designed to incorporate and

engage the human body. Two major trends of

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wearable computers are miniaturization and multiple functionalities. In order to incorporate

the design and mobility of the human body, the various components of computing devices must

not only be broken down and distributed throughout the body but also made tiny enough to be a useful tool rather than a bulky hindrance. As

are many modern technological devices, these wearable computers are moving towards being

functional on multiple levels. A single function wearable device is not truly considered a wearable computer as computers are generally

categorized by their ability to perform many functions. However, initial prototypes, such as

the VuMan Navigator wearable computer, were single function devices and garnered more functionality in subsequent generations. [14] The

VuMan 1 specifically began as a device for viewing architectural blueprints. The VuMan 2

added a cursor for more interactivity as well as a more practical „mouse‟ and the VuMan 3 (most recent) added radio capabilities and two

PCMCIA slots. [14] It should also be noted that as multiple functionalities are being added, the

miniaturization of the components trends as well. For instance, the battery of the VuMan 1 was 20% of its overall weight, while the battery of the

VuMan 2 was 50% and the VuMan 3‟s battery was 70%. [14] In these manners, the wearable

computer can be considered the next chain in the evolution of the computer, especially in terms of mobility. Computing devices began as football

field-sized devices for governmental purposes. They quickly worked their way into a compact

device that could easily fit onto a surface, eventually leaving the desk in the form of a laptop. Now, the ultimate development of the

wearable computer gives way to the next link in the chain of mobile computation. As in a related,

futuristic James Bond-esque fashion, Glacier‟s W200 wearable computer is a computing device that fits as an over-sized wristwatch. [8] It offers

the functionalities of a personal computer while incorporating the minute size of a wristwatch.

The most notable function of the W200 is its global positioning system, a potential trend amongst wearable technologies. Another

wearable computing device is the Zeal Optics

SPPX Polarized Photochromatic goggles. The goggles appear to be typical when in fact the

inside sports a functional display, which can show such facts as temperature, speed, cardinal

direction, altitude and so forth. The goggles also have potential global positioning abilities. [10]

The components of wearable devices differ greatly, depending on the particular functions and

utility of the devices. For instance, the VuMan devices have a display in the form of a „Private Eye‟ which is a head-mounted display in front of

the user‟s vision that, despite its proximity to the face, gives the illusion of being approximately 5

feet away. Through this display, the user can sift through various blueprints and plans. Also, the VuMan sports a hip-mounted „mouse‟ that has

three buttons that allow the user to browse through, and interact with, the display. [14]

Figure 1: A user navigates wiring via the VuMan 1. [14]

Other devices have different components. The

Sixth Sense device, as developed by Pranav Mistry, is another wearable computing device with much potential. For this device, the „mouse‟

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is actually attached to one‟s fingertips and the movement of their digits determines the

movement of the cursor. The display for the Sixth Sense device is actually any flat, clear surface

because the computer device essentially features a camera which projects onto any suitable surface. [7] While this fact does limit a user to

any location which has an appropriate surface, but the potentiality and implications are arguably

limitless.

3.2 Second Skin As opposed to wearable computers, second skin devices are not quite as interactive; they deal

more with communication and memory. Often, second skins are referred to as „memory-rich clothing‟ or „haptically-advanced‟ garments. [3]

This is a fitting name because there are so many parallels between the skin and one‟s garments.

Firstly, just as one‟s skin acts as a natural slate for scribing personal history, even non-digital clothing can keep a kind of record. Garments can

wear, tear, stain and stretch, creating an abstract timeline of human activity, keeping long-term

memory. As a more intermediate-term memory function, non-digital clothing can keep track of one‟s daily lives. Repetitious behavior can often

be discerned from one‟s attire. Skin serves the same function, giving insight into one‟s daily life

(i.e. thick skin on the hands, baggy skin under the eyes). Lastly, skin and clothing have parallels in the fact that they provide short-term memory

such as one‟s emotions. Blood, sweat and tears can be shown through short-term stresses, both in

skin and garments. [3]. In fact, the closeness between skin and clothing is not just metaphorical or utilitarian but physical. It is

approximated that 90% of one‟s attire is in contact with the skin at all times of wear. [11].

This memory is digitally quantified and translated into terms that can be more readily interpreted

[3], serving as an information management system or buffer between researcher and user. [1]

However, this memory is rather useless without the other trend component: communication. These digitally quantified results can be

transmitted to an external source. This

surveillance has ample applications but has been researched mainly in medical and military fields.

The term „life caching‟ is used to describe the basic idea of second skin, or „memory-rich

clothing‟ devices. [3] Life caching is the process of cataloguing, annotating, saving and uploading personal data. Just as an autoethnographer

submerses himself in a specific culture to understand the data, so too does a second skin

device; cataloguers do not have to rely on qualitative observations from a distance, they can have up-close, personal and constant data

transference.

3.2.1 GTWM The Georgia Tech Wearable Motherboard is a prime example of a second skin device and

perhaps it can shed more light on the definition of what „memory-rich clothing‟ is. The GTWM is

an “A.R.T.S.” or an Adaptive and Responsive Textile Structure. As aforementioned, there are many potential uses for the GTWM but some

notable functions include penetration sensing, vital sign monitoring, voice supervision and

comfort testing. There are a plethora of potential uses for the GTWM: critical/hazardous applications, healthcare, military, personalized

information processing, public safety, space exploration, sports/athletics, etc. In the medical

field, the GTWM could prove immeasurably useful. The limitations of tending to patients on a one-by-one basis could be greatly alleviated, as

medical professionals can monitor multiple patients from various locales at once. The

communication would provide patients with the ability to remain in close contact with a doctor at all times. Eventually, as the development of the

technology increases, the price tag on a clean bill of health will decrease. Furthermore, those who

are incapable of caring themselves (i.e. elderly, infants) could be well monitored. Lastly, and possibly most importantly, as devices such as the

GTWM grow in abundance, medical care could focus less on „treatment‟ and more on

„preventative care.‟ Clearly, the device is unfathomably useful but how does the GTWM actually work and what components allow it to do

so? The main components in the „Smart Shirt‟ as

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it is also known are: copper core with polyethylene sheath and doped nylon fibers with

inorganic particles (for conduction), Meraklon (for comfort), plastic optic fibers (for sensing),

spandex (for fit) and Nega-Stat™ (for static dissipation). The GTWM technology is woven spirally throughout the fabric and sensors (EKG)

are embedded [4] in the fabric (“smart fabric”) [13], providing a „bus‟ system where information

can travel through the garment. [4]

Figure 2: The GTWM as worn by a subject. [4]

3.2.2 Intimate Shirt/Skirt The Intimate Skirt and the Intimate Shirt are also considered second skin devices but greatly differ, especially in function, from the GTWM. The

“Intimate” garments also feature embedded sensors but they are concerned with touch as it

pertains to the intensity of intimacy. The Intimate Skirt feature LED lights along the surface of the fabric which light up according to intimacy.

Intimacy is judged according to location and intensity of touch, as well as the duration of

contact. The LED lights shine accordingly (i.e.

duration of light, amount of lights, location of lights, etc.). The imbedded sensors detect these

factors and display the results ostensibly for the user to see and interpret. In this way, not only

could an external source be able to receive, catalogue and interpret the information, the user/wearer could be able to easily comprehend

and interpret the results. [3]

Figure 3: The Intimate Skirt as worn by a subject. [3]

Figure 4: The schematic for the Intimate Skirt.

As shown in Figures 3 and 4, the overlap between the fashion and technology aspects of the Intimate Skirt is functional. The schematic is

actually the shape of the garment‟s design. The stitching follows precisely the schematic, serving

function in both the technological infrastructure and the fashion sense of the skirt.

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3.3 Digital Jewelry Digitalization of jewelry is another example of

wearable technology. As with non-digital jewelry, this new technology allows for socio-

economic and individual expression as well as personalization. Digital jewelry has less multiple functionalities but encompasses miniaturization

in comparison to the wearable computer. Digital jewelry can be in the form of any kind of non-

digital jewelry (bracelet, wristwatch, necklace, ring, piercings, etc.). As the vernacular suggests, the concept of digital jewelry is the merely

digitalization of non-digital jewelry. These devices could function as global positioning

devices, personal data assistants, telephonic devices, video communication tools and more. The potential utilities or digital jewelry are

immense as well. What other positive attributes exist of digital jewelry besides utility? Chiefly, as

with most wearable technology devices, mobility is a key idea. A user may carry with him the technological devices he requires in practically

any location or situation. The fact that the technology is in the form of jewelry also means

that the technology is at least partially concealed in most cases. Lastly, the distribution of device components, as with wearable computers, allows

for ease of use and convenience. Though while a wearable computer can permit a device to

achieve multiple functionalities, digital jewelry can permit a single device to be broken down into various parts and distributed to locations on the

body that provide better utility. For instance, IBM created a jewelry set at the turn of the

century that functioned as a cellular phone. The various jewelry components serve a particular function similar to the various functioning

components of a cellular phone. For example, the earrings of the set perform as the receiver part of

the phone. Since the earrings are adjacent to the hearing organs, they serve a technological and practical function as well as act as jewelry.

Similarly, the necklace has the ability to transfer oratory messages, serving as the microphone part

of a telephone. The ring is also a functional part of the whole set, lighting up when receiving a call, providing an alternative numerical pad, etc.

[12]

Figure 5: IBM‟s telephonically functional jewelry set. [12]

3.4 Personal Area Networks Just as a Local Area Network (LAN) connects the

essential technological parts of a business, office or building, a Personal Area Network (PAN) connects the essential technological parts of an

individual. LANs may connect computers, printers, wireless access points, servers and more.

Similarly, PANs may connect personal data assistants, cellular telephones, music players, watches, etc. In this way, the devices can share

data, storage and computation. PANs allow for greater accessibility as well as mobility. In many

ways, a PAN encompasses most aspects of other wearable technologies. It permits one to share information amongst his devices, translate that

conglomeration of information into a new tool and upload that information to external sources.

Basically, the PAN transforms the human body into a biological conductor and the individual becomes a network. Each person is assigned a

unique user code, which can be used to identify him, locate him or exchange information

discreetly and directly with other individuals‟ PANs. Of course, each PAN is set up to exchange or not exchange specific information. One may

wonder, however, if there are major privacy issues involved with Personal Area Networks. It

is a valid query that is answered by protocol and regulation. PANs are kept private by frequency modulation, code division and signal attenuation,

as well as others. Certainly, more development on the concept of PANs will give way to further

preventative measures. The actual device itself is

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very discreet. It can take many forms (i.e. credit card, ID badge, shoe sole insert, belt, headset,

eyeglasses, wristwatch, etc.) but its physical design is ultimately limitless. [15] After

describing the device, as it is a rather abstract technology to grasp, it would behoove one to provide an example. Imagine a scenario in which

two businesswomen both have PANs that are set up to transmit and receive certain business

information from other individuals. One businesswoman shakes the other‟s hand and picoamp energy transmits business card

information via the haptic encounter. Now, consider that this is not science fiction. A

prototype PAN was indeed designed to do just that and did so successfully. In the future, it is speculated that one will be able to audibly inquire

certain information and his PAN will instantly shuffle through the various interconnected

devices for the answer and communicate it back to him via the PAN. Then, as the individual (or PAN) passes through a doorway, the information

regarding his departure will be transmitted to colleagues. Arriving at the office, the door opens

upon detecting his arrival and any important memos are instantaneously downloaded to his PAN and communicated to him. [15] The

potential for the Personal Area Network is seemingly endless. By connecting the various

parts of an individual‟s technological arsenal, he becomes essentially an all- in-one device.

3.5 Other Technologies While this paper has focused on the „smart

technologies‟ with wearability, and also has focused on the idea that novelty equates neither utility nor potential, it is also important to note

other wearable technologies that exist. Fashion has always been a sort of reflection of the

technological state of society and some have said that limiting “wearable technology” to „smartness‟ is imprecise, as it does not allow for

expansion of other ideas. [11] For instance, there are other wearable technologies that have

potential for „smartness‟ but are not yet completely there. In fact, some would also argue that the move towards „smartness‟ is not always

necessary. This brings one back to the statement

about “value beyond initial novelty;” if a wearable technology is useful before (if ever)

achieving „smart‟ status, it can equally be considered a wearable technology amongst the

others discussed.

3.5.1 Active Tattooing Tattoos are often considered wearable fashion, although they are relatively expensive and

difficult to „unwear.‟ In general society, tattoos are merely permanent fashion statements in the form of artistically placed ink on the human

body. Unlike the second skin devices, tattoos can become „first skin‟ devices in the fact that they

may be able to imbed technology into one‟s epidermis. Research has, often vaguely, hinted at the possibility of imbedded sensors or

identification tags within tattoos. In this manner, tattoos can not only function as body-art but as

positioning devices and/or identification mechanisms.

3.5.2 Design-Altering Garments The idea has also been posed of a garment that

merely responds to an external technological stimulus. For example, wearable technology

developers speculate that eventually, the personal world of fashion will intersect in more social ways with technology. A specific explanation of

this concept is the design-altering garment. If one is listening to his .mp3 device, playing a tune by

a particular musical artist, if properly synced with his shirt for instance, the shirt could be able to display the album cover. As the songs change, so

too would the shirt‟s design. The display of the garment would alter in sync with the album art of

each respective song. It is also possible to imagine a garment that alters in design in response to a human stimulus such as mood.

One‟s mood could potentially dictate the design of his clothing.

3.5.3 Solar Bikini Designed by Andrew Schneider of New York, the

solar bikini is a bikini comprised of 40 photovoltaic strips, kept together by conductive

thread, which have the ability to charge small

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gadgets such as an .mp3 player using solar energy. [9] The solar bikini, as it is extremely

new on the technology scene, is not mainstream and very few are on the market. They must be

custom ordered and individually handled. The bikini is safe for almost all environments and allows one the ease of mobile device charging.

[9] There would be multiple drawbacks to the wearable technology of course: necessity of a

USB cord attachment, necessity of solar light, limitations of devices, etc. Although the solar bikini seems to have more cons than pros, the

implications of the technology, as with the aforementioned “other technologies,” are limited

mostly by imagination.

4. SUPPOSITION To conclude, wearable technology is not a concept of the future, it is a clear and present

entity and many examples are already in existence. However, the lack of complete

development and direction of wearable technology as a whole would certainly be a deterrent to any company looking to utilize its

advantageous nature. Any business could potentially benefit from wearable technologies as their uses are easily applied to innumerable

fields: healthcare, high fashion, military, public safety, social networking, space exploration,

sports/athletics, etc. In fact, it is estimated that by the year 2016, approximately 300 million wearable technology devices will exist for a

variety of uses. [13] Truly, the possibilities are endless. However, until the technology is defined

and refined, it would be highly risky to invest in wearable devices, such as a wearable computer, second skin, digital jewelry and personal area

network, at this time.

5. REFERENCES [1] Barfield, W. and Caudell, T.

Fundamentals of wearable computers and augumented reality, Lawrence Erlbaum Inc Publishers, Mahwah NJ, „01.

[2] Bergeron, B. Wearable Computing Devices. in Nuts and Volts online

magazine, Nov „07.

[3] Berzowska, J. Memory Rich Clothing: Second Skins that Communicate Physical

Memory, Concordia University, Maisonnueve WV, „05.

[4] Gopalsamy, C., et al. The Wearable Motherboard[TM]: The first generation of adaptive and responsive textile structures

(ARTS) for medical applications. in Virtual Reality, 4.3 (1999), 152.

[5] Jeurling, C. Smart textiles today and in the future. in Phorecast (interview with Suzanne Lee of Central Saint Martins

College of Art and Design), Sept „08. [6] Miner, C. Pushing Functionality Into

Even Smaller Devices. in Communications of the ACM, 44.3 (2001), 72+.

[7] Pranav Mistry: The thrilling potential of SixthSense technology. TED Online, Nov

‟09. [8] Quick, D. Glacier's W200 Wearable

Computer. in Gizmag, Apr „11.

[9] Ridden, P. Solar bikini goes into very limited production. in Gizmag, Jun „11.

[10] Ridden, P. World first GPS goggles with head mounted display. in Gizmag, Oct „10.

[11] Scaturro, S. Eco-tech fashion: rationalizing technology in sustainable

fashion. in Fashion Theory, 12.4 (2008), 469+.

[12] Schwartz, E. Wireless world takes James

Bond-like twist with wearable digital jewelry. in InfoWorld, Aug ‟00, 59.

[13] Smart textiles set for commercial breakthrough. in just-style.com, May „11.

[14] VuMan. in Carnegie Mellon University,

Carnegie Mellon University Wearable Computer Systems. Jul „97.

[15] Zimmerman, T. G. Personal Area Network: Near-field intrabody communication. in IBM Systems Journal,

35.3:4 (1996), 609-617.