WE’LL SHOW YOU HOW TO TURN THIS CHILDHOOD CLASSIC INTO A STYLISH CHANGING ROOM. HOORAY FOR THE

hoops of fun!{CREAT IVE INSP IRAT IONS FROM HOBBY LOBBY®}free

Hoola Hoop ent!

Room for Change Tents like this one are popping up all over the place. That’s because they’re easy—the frame is a basic hula hoop—compact, lightweight and amazingly portable. We fancied up our version with a chic, awning-style top. And we made it tall enough for a grownup to stand in.

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Hula Hoop ItStrips of fabric, sewn onto the main fabric, wrap around the hula hoop and stay secure using a hook and loop closure. Remove from hoop when the fabric needs to be laundered, and pop it back in when you’re done.

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» On and Awning What’s your favorite part of this tent-turned-dressing-room? We’re partial to the cute scalloped, awing-style trim. It gives the piece a fancy, finished look—and it’s perfect for hiding the ends of the cording (see right) that holds our handy optional clothes hanger.

Open Up Handy hook and loop tie-backs keep this tent open for business. When they’re not in use, the panels overlap for complete privacy. That’s right, there’s no gap!

» Pick a PocketSince our tent was designed to function

as a changing space, we added a series of pockets to the inside.

They’re just the right size for a necklace, scarf or wallet.

« Raise the Bar Hang tomorrow’s outfit on this simple (but oh-so-handy) bar. It’s made from a painted dowel rod, and it’s suspended using basic cording. And it’s a cinch to install—just stitch the ends of the cording to the outside of the tent, hiding it under the scallop trim.

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Hula Hoop ent How- o:Yardage: All measurements are based on using a 110" circumference hula hoop. This tent is sized for adults.

• 9 ¾" yards of the main fabric for tent and three inside pockets, and outside of carrier bag.

• 9 yards of the contrast fabric for canopy, scalloped border, bottom panel, tie backs for tent, hook and loop bands; zipper band, pocket, and gusset for carrier.

• 2 ¾" yards of webbing for carrier handle• 3 ½" yards of cording for dowel rod and top hanger

Use ½" seam allowance unless otherwise specified. Serge or finish all seams as desired.

ent: 1. From the main fabric, cut five panels that measure

18 ½" wide by 58 ½" long. Cut two panels that measure 16" wide by 58 ½" long. The thinner panels will overlap and serve as the entrance to the tent.

2. From the main fabric, cut three pockets that measure 12" wide and 11" long. Press under ¼" on the top edge of the pockets, then fold again to make a ½" hem. Stitch in place.

3. Press under ½" on the sides and bottom of each pocket. Pin a pocket to one of the five wider

panels, positioning where desired. Stitch down the sides and across the bottom. Repeat for the other two pockets.

4. On one of the two thinner panels (16" wide), press under ¼" on one of the long edges. Fold again to the inside and pin to make a 2" hem. Stitch in place. Do the same for the other 16" panel.

5. Now begin sewing the panels to each other in this order: thin panel, the 4 wide panels, thin panel.

6. To make the tie backs, from the contrast fabric, cut two pieces measuring 3" x 18". Fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch across one short edge and down the long side. Turn right side out and press. Sew one side of hook and loop fastener to the sewn end of each tie back. Serge or finish the other end. Set aside the corresponding pieces of hook and loop tape. You will use it in Step 14.

7. Make a small mark halfway down between the first two wide panels and the last two wide panels. On the wrong side of the fabric, place the serged edge of one of the tie backs at this mark. The hook and loop fastener should be facing down towards the back of the tent and the wrong side of the fabric. Pin in place and stitch. Repeat between the other wide panels for the other tie back.

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Cut 6 wedges for canopy. Enlarge pattern so that curved edge measures 18 1/2" across along the curve.

Cut 12 scalloped panels. Enlarge to 18 1/2” across along the curve.

1/2” seam

allowance.

Hula Hoop ent How- o:(continued from page 6)

8. For the contrasting lower border, cut five panels that measure 18 ½" wide by 38" long. Cut two panels that measure 17" wide and 38" long. Begin sewing the panels together in this order: thin panel, the four wide panels, thin panel. Fold the border in half lengthwise with the right sides together and stitch a ½" seam on each end. Turn right side out and press. Baste the top edges together.

9. With right sides together, sew the contrast border to the bottom of the main tent piece, matching front edges and panel seams. Set aside.

10. Cut six wedge shapes from the contrast fabric to form the canopy. Sew them together along the straight edges to form a circle.

11. Cut twelve scalloped pieces from the contrast fabric that measure 18 ½" wide and 10" long. See diagram for scallop formation. Stitch six pieces together to form a circle. Stitch the other six pieces together to make another circle (this will serve as the facing). With right sides together, sew the facing to the scalloped border along the bottom, scalloped edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn right side out and press. Baste the top edges together and set aside.

12. To make hook and loop bands, cut twelve 3" x 5" strips from the contrast fabric. With right sides together, stitch the long side of each one with a ¼" seam. Turn right side out and press. Serge or finish the short edges. Sew a piece of hook and loop fastener to the end of one band. Turn the band over and sew the corresponding piece on the opposite end of the band. Repeat for all the other bands.

13. Fold the bands in half and place the folded edge at the raw edge of the seam lines of the canopy. Baste in place. Center the other six bands between the seam lines and baste in place.

14. Now place the scalloped border on top of the main tent piece. Pin together, matching seams, and overlapping the two thinner front panels. Baste.

15. With right sides together, stitch the canopy to the scalloped border and main tent, sewing through all the layers and clipping where necessary to conform to the curve.

16. Determine the length you’d like your outside clothing hanger to be, and cut dowel rod to size if necessary. Glue wooden knobs to the ends of the dowel rod. Paint the color of your choice. To attach the clothing hanger, cut two 43" lengths of cording. Tie a double or triple knot on one end of each length of cord. Sew the knotted ends on the outside of the tent under the scallops—the distance between the two cords should be the same as the length of the dowel rod. Tie the free ends of the cording around the dowel rod and adjust the length of the cord if necessary.

17. Wrap the hook and loop fastener bands inside the canopy around the hula hoop. Cut about 40" of cording, double it and tie a knot. Thread through the top of the canopy. Stitch securely in place. This will allow you to suspend the tent from a ceiling hook.

18. Pull back the two entrance panels and on the outside of the tent, determine position for the hook and loop fasteners set aside in Step 4. This should correspond to the position of the tie backs inside the tent. Stitch the hook and loop fasteners in place.

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©2013 Hobby Lobby® - Photography by Sanford Mauldin

DO NOT ALLOW CHILDREN TO COMPLETE PROJECTS ALONE. ADULT SUPERVISION REQUIRED.

www.hobbylobby.com • • Fabric - HL-WB-027

Hula Hoop Carrier How- o:Carrier: 1. Using the hula hoop as a guide, cut two big circles

2" larger than the circumference of the hula hoop from the main fabric.

2. From the contrast fabric, cut an 18" wide by 27" long rectangle for the pocket. With right sides together, fold in half to make a pocket 18" x 13 ½". Stitch down the sides and across the bottom, leaving an opening on the bottom to turn. Turn right side out and press. Using the folded edge as the opening (top) of the pocket, place it on one of the large circles, centered from side to side and approximately 10" from the top. Stitch down the sides and across the bottom of the pocket.

3. To make the carrying straps, cut the webbing into two equal pieces, about 48" long. Sew the ends of one strap just inside the top corners of the pocket. Sew the other strap in the same position on the other large circle.

4. Cut two long strips from the contrast fabric that measure 3¾ wide by the width of the fabric. This will form the gusset. Cut four long strips 2 ½" x 33"

wide by the width of the fabric and sew the strips together in pairs to make two long strips measuring 2 ½" wide by approximately 66" long. This will form the opening for the zipper. The zipper we used was about 61” long. Trim excess gusset.

5. Turn under one long edge of each zipper band strip about ½" and press. With the zipper facing up, sew one folded edge of the strip to one side of the zipper tape, starting the stitching about 1" from the end of the band. Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Cut away excess zipper band on the end, leaving about an inch of band below the zipper stop.

6. With right sides together, pin a gusset piece to each short end of the zipper band and stitch. Now pin the zipper band/gusset to one of the large circles, clipping where necessary to follow the curve. (Center the zipper band side to side over the opening of the pocket!) This will ensure your bag opens on the top and not the bottom. Trim the excess gusset where the ends meet, leaving ½" on each end to sew together and complete the circle. Stitch the ends together, then sew all the way around the circle. Sew the other side of the zipper band/gusset to the other circle, making sure to match up the carrier straps.