Chapter 8 Wax Work.

Martha Armstrong-Hand used a carving wax to make the final models of doll parts

she used to make her plaster molds for porcelain slip casting. Martha worked as

a sculptor and doll maker for large companies, like Mattel, so I'd imagine she brought

the commercial technique of using carving wax for doll parts from those companies

to her doll studio.

Making Your Own Wax;

The reason this carving wax works so well for doll making is that it can be

finished to a glassy smooth finish, if so desired. The carving wax formula is

about half talc, and half wax, by weight. I believe it is the inclusion of the

talc, as a filler, that allows for such fine finishing of the doll parts. It

can also be poured into a mold, then the casting can be carved or sanded. It

can be added to using a wax pen, or similar tools.

Talc: [URL]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talc[\/URL]

Talc is a mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate. Since it is used

in powdered form, please be sure to wear a respirator when mixing it. Talc

can be found at Pottery/Ceramic Supply stores since it is a common item used

in clay body formulas. I used Baby Powder (Ingredients: Talc, Fragrance) that

I found at the local Dollar Tree, $1+tax for 14oz Net Wt. [Note: If you use

Baby Powder, be sure to get the Talc, not the Cornstarch Baby Powder!]

Paraffin Wax: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin

It is important to note that the Paraffin Wax used in the carving wax formula

is not the low-melting-point paraffin used in home canning, nor is it kerosene,

which is known as Paraffin Oil in Ireland, Britain and South Africa.

You want to buy the Paraffin wax which has a melting temperature

of about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (66C). Pure paraffin wax is rarely used for

carving original models, as it is relatively brittle at room temperature. Soft

and pliable waxes, like beeswax or microcrystalline wax, may be added to make

the paraffin less brittle.

Microcrystalline Wax: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcrystalline_wax

Microcrystalline wax is characterized by the fineness of its crystals in contrast

to the larger crystal of paraffin wax.

Beeswax: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beeswax

Beeswax is a natural wax produced in the bee hive of honey bees of the genus Apis.

Carnauba Wax: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax

Although too brittle to be used by itself, carnauba wax is often combined with other

waxes, principally beeswax.

It is very important when melting waxes that you don't get the melt too hot.

Use an electric cooker with a temperature control, or a candy thermometer to

keep the temperature below the point where the wax starts smoking. If it starts

smoking, then it is way too hot!

Carving Wax Recipes:

1. The first carving wax recipe is here:

http://www.biscuitshouse.com/Enchant...?t=1051&page=3

See post #22.

"These are photos of the wax mixture that I will pour into moulds to make a wax doll

that I can then refine. This mixture is

900 grams paraffin,

900 grams microcrystalline,

1800 grams industrial talc,

200 grams beeswax and

200 grams carnauba wax.

It is really stinky, so I did it on the stove top so I could use the rangehood."

This recipe makes about 8.8 pounds of carving wax!

2. The second carving wax recipe is here:

http://atelierpoupee.blogspot.com/20...rving-wax.html

This is a modified version of the above wax recipe.

1 part paraffin

1 part microcrystalline wax

2 parts talc

The talc I used was Baby Powder, purchased at The Dollar Tree, 14oz per container.

I weighed 14oz of paraffin wax, 14oz of microcrystalline wax, and added 2 containers

(28oz) of talc to the melt. I also added a couple of ounces of a white scented candle.

This recipe makes about 3.6 pounds of carving wax.

My carving wax smells like a freshly dusted baby bum because of the scented candle

and the fragrance in the Baby Powder. There were two kinds of Baby Powder at the

store: one with cornstarch, and the other with talc. Make sure to get Baby Powder

with Talc as the main ingredient.

I used a candy thermometer to measure the temperature of the melt. All the wax

was melted at 160 degrees Fahrenheit (71C). I melted the wax first, then stirred

the talc into the melted wax.

Making a Wax Cast;

Wax and water don't mix. In order to cast wax in the rough shell molds, the molds

need to be saturated with water. I soak the molds in water until no more air

bubbles rise from the molds. I use a paint brush to brush bubbles off the molds

every once in awhile when they are soaking. Sometimes, soaking the molds in warm

water will help to make a better cast. It all depends on how cold the tap water

is that you are soaking the molds in.

After the molds are completely saturated with water, I remove them from the tub

and dab all the excess water off the mold. A soft dry sponge can be used to do

this, followed by dabbing with a soft absorbent cloth (an old t-shirt works good).

Make sure to fasten the mold halves securely together with rubber mold bands or

cotton clothesline.

The wax should be melted, then carefully poured into the molds. It is very important

to pour the wax in a continuous stream, not stopping if at all possible. If you

interrupt the pour, it is possible that there will be a line on your casting

at the point where you stopped and started again. I use a tin can with a spout

formed in the lip to pour my molds. It is easier to pour wax into the tin can,

then pour into the mold, than it is to pour from the wax pot. If you must pour

molten wax from the wax pot, try to only melt enough wax to fill the mold, plus

a little more for topping off the spare during the time the wax is thickening

in the mold. This is safer than trying to pour from a full wax pot.

Once poured, the carving wax will start solidifying in the mold, next to the

wall so the mold. The center will remain liquid. As the wax solidifies, or

thickens along the walls of the mold, it may be necessary to add wax to the

spare from time to time, so keep an eye on it.

When the walls of the casting are thick enough, pour the excess liquid wax

that is in the center of the casting, back into the wax pot. This will leave

you with a hollow carving wax model, or pattern of your doll part. Put the

mold with the casting back into the tub of soaking water until the wax has

cooled down. When the cast carving wax has cooled enough to handle, the mold

may be opened. I usually open the mold in the soaking water, so the mold

can absorb more water, especially if I'm planning on casting more than one

doll part from that mold.

Wax Work: Setting Up the Work Space;

The cast carving wax will have flashing on it, from the mold seams, as well as

the pouring sprue, or spare. The flashing and spare will need to be carefully

removed, then the part can be finished.

I use an X-Acto razor knife to cut the carving wax. The carving wax is strong

enough to have holes drilled with drill bits, cut with saws, and carved with

wood carving chisels, gouges, and knives.

The carving wax may be sanded with finer and finer sandpapers until it is very

smooth. It may be buffed and polished with old nylon stockings.

Always carve away from your body, and don't get your fingers in the way of

sharp tools. Make sure your work space has plenty of light, and an adequate

ventilation system, with exhaust fans, when working with molten wax (such as

a wax pen).

1 part white candle wax (hard white candles -- I see big candles in the Thrift store all the time -- most candles are made of paraffin wax)

1 part talc (Baby Powder Talc works just fine-- make sure the Baby Powder you get has Talc, not cornstarch as the main ingredient

Melt the candle wax first. Don't let it get too hot! When it is melted, add the talc. Do not breathe the talc powder -- use a respirator and ventilation!)

If the carving wax is too brittle, add a little bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the melt. I wouldn't add any more than 1/10th the amount of wax that you use.

Try this recipe only if you can't find the recipes listed in the above post. I have not tried this recipe. If you do try it, let all of us know how it works