WALK1985

VOLUME 36

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This is the first ad in the magazine and one you should rea~.

Seriously.

Let's face it. If you weren't serious about bushwalking you wouldn't buy this magazine.

And that's the very reason why we advertise in it. Because we're serious enough to spend some weeks

overseas each year buying new stock, examining the latest products and materials and how they relate to Australian conditions.

We then combine this with expert advice and fitting from people who go bushwalking to test and trial the equipment they sell.

Serious enough to provide the time for you to discuss your requirements and determine exactly what you need, or don't need.

And finally, serious enough to list the type of product and manufacturer that will tempt you into our store.

fu_c_ks - Berghaus, Lowe, Bergans, Fairydown. Jr:QYel Packs - Berghaus, Lowe, Fairydown, Mac Poe Wilderness. Tents - Bergans, Mac Poe Wilderness. Sleeping]Qgs - J&H, AFM, Fairydown, Aurora. Boots -Scarpa, Raichle, Rossi, Dachstein, Zamberlan. Clothing - J&H, Berghaus, Helly Hanssen, Alp Sports. Stoves -MSR, Coleman, Optimus, Trangia.

Nordic Ski & Backpacking Corner Murrumbeena and Nee rim Roads, Murrumbeena.

Phone 568 4133, 569 8368.

VOLUME36

. ... . 'l ••

Business Manager: Philip Taylor

Editor: Heather Cameron

Advertising: Mark Tischler

AU enquiries to: Melbourne Bushwalkers, Box 1751Q, GPO Melbourne 3001 WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne Bush­walkers to enhance people's appreciation of the natural world and to encourage bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation.

Cover photo: Scrambling over one of the gullies of the Ada River Track, Powelltown area Philip Larkin Frontispiece: Looking out to Lake Eildon, Fraser National Park Ken McMahon Typeset by Bookset, 14la Arden Street, North Melbourne 3051. 328 3698 Printed by J . Batten Pty. Ltd . 563 Little Lonsdale St., Melbourne 3000. 67 7395

JSSN 0812-4876

CONTENTS

Editorial . . ................ . ............. .. ....... . ....... . . 3 Cascades and Granite North of Melbourne: a Look at Some Lovely But Little Known Day Walking Areas, Jopie Bodegraven . . . . ..... ... . .. 5 Huts of Kosciusko- Some History and Folklore, Klaus Hueneke . . .... 9 Climbing Up to the Sacred Home Of The Spirits Departed in The Land Below The Wind, Sandra Mutimer . ... .. ......... . .. .. .. . . . .... 17 I' m A Member, But I'm No Bushie , Wendy Taylor .......... .. .... 24 Sunday Walks Are A Most Appealing Feature of The Melbourne Bush walkers Club, Christina Thornley ... .... . . .... .... . .. .. .... 27 Extended Bushwalking, Bill Metzenthen ............. ... . .. ..... . 29 First Time On The Bluff, Graeme Laidlaw .. .. . ....... . . . .. ... . .. 32 The Mt Anne Circuit , Mark Tischler .. . . . .... . .. .. . . . . . . . .... .. . 34 Ranging The Barrier, Graham Wills-Johnson ........ . . . . ....... .. 38 Tall Timber Tales , Athol Schafer . .... .... .... .. .. .. .. ..... ..... 50 Daddy Why Are The Trees Dying?, Jopie Bodegraven . .. ....... . ... 55 Pedal Power, Art Terry . . .. .... . ... .. ... . . ... ..... .. .. . ...... 61 Book Reviews .. . .... . . . .. . . . . ..... . ......... .. . . .. ........ 64 Mapping, Barry Short . . .. . . . . ... .. . . . . ..... . .. .. . . ... .. . . ... 68

Track Notes The W onnangatta - Moroka National Park .. .. . . . . .... . ... ...... 71

Moroka from Cromwell 's Knob (I day) .. . .. . ... . .. . ... . .. ..... 72 Spion Kopje Ridge (I day) .. ...... . . ...... . . ... .... .. .. .. ... 74 Northern Conglomerate Creek Circuit (I day) ...... .... . .. . ... . . 75 Lake Tarli Kamg (2 days) .. . .. . . . . .. . ... . .... .. . . .. . ..... .. 77 The Crosscut Saw (2 days) ... .. .. . . ..... . ... .. ... ... . .. ..... 79 Snowy Bluff and Two Mile Creek Valley (3 days) . . . .. ........ . . 81

The Lome Forest Park, Otway Ranges ....... ... .. . ... . .. . .... . . 84 Mount Cowley- Cumberland River- Curtis Clearing (2 days) .. . 85 The Great Ocean Road- Sheoak Creek- The Canyon -Phantom Falls -Cora Lynn Cascades (I day) . ......... . .. ... 89

Cheshunt South - Paradise Falls- Mt Warrick- Wabonga Plateau- Mt Typo (3 days) . ......... . .. . ..... . ...... . ..... .. . 91 Mt Tallarook- Breech Peak (I day) ... ............. . .... .. .. . . . 92 Pyrites Creek Area (I day) ........... . . . .. . ... .......... . ... .. 93 Little River Gorge- a day up Taggerty Way (I day) . . .... ...... ... 95

The editor of Walk 1985 would like to thank all those who assisted in its publication , especially Barry Short for the maps and Jan Llewelyn and Doug Pocock for the proofreading.

Melbourne Bushwalkers always welcomes visitors on its walks which include easy one-day excursions and weekend trips . Extended walking tours of three days or more are also included on the club ' s programme. If you are interested, call in any Wednesday night from 7 to 9p.m. to the clubroom, Racing Club Lane , Melbourne (at the rear of Bushgear, 377 Little Bourke Street). Details may also be obtained by writing to the Honorary Secretary, Box l751Q, Melbourne 3001.

2

EDITORIAL

The joys of bushwalking have been experienced by generations ever since Australia had city dwellers who wished to escape to the country.

The increasing pressures of present day life , such as noise pollution , air pollution, inflation , unemployment , lack of job opportunities, changing relationships and marriage breakdowns, have caused many more people to seek a simpler, purer quality oflife. In the era of George Orwell's 1984, they are discovering the calming effect of nature on the human spirit. Newspaper holiday advertisements reflect this upsurge of interest in nature -outdoor adventure holidays , Himalayan treks, sailing holidays, horseriding holi­days , four-wheel drive holidays , cross-country skiing holidays, camping in the outback and bushland retreats . The Council of Adult Education offers courses such as bushwalking, navigation skills , horseriding and bicycle touring, as well as nature tour holidays such as birdwatching . Newspaper weekend activity supplements invariably have articles on outdoor activities, with bushwalking featuring strongly.

As well as reflecting our present society's interest in nature , these adver­tisements and articles are creating an interest in many different types of people whose hitherto lifestyle was not concerned with nature . This augurs well for the sanity of future generations and for the preservation of our natural heritage . (The huge support given to the Franklin River blockade exemplifies this trend .)

However, with the good comes the bad . As more and more people venture into the world of nature to explore its visual and spiritual joys, that very world is altered , and is in danger of being destroyed. In the bushwalking fraternity this phenomenon is especially mourned as up until now bush­walkers have had their unspoilt bush world mainly to themselves. They now see some of their walking tracks badly worn, some of their walking tracks threatened with road construction, some of their favourite camping sites altered by development and some of their mountain bush huts endangered by overcrowding.

The increased interest in nature within our society cannot be abated and it is selfish to wish that it could. I believe the answer to the dilemma lies in education - general education ofthe public and college courses for nature administrators .

General education of the public should start at primary school with the basic tenets of respect for nature such as do not litter, do not disrupt the vegetation, do not write on rocks , trees, etc. This could be supplemented by T.V . programs in teenage viewing hours, perhaps in the form of documen­taries. T .V . programs would also be appropriate for uninitiated adults . These could be in the form of cartoons such as the successful Life Be In It campaign.

Adults who already have an affinity with nature, for example those who take nature holidays and nature courses, could be taught such things as keeping to the paths to protect vegetation and campsite cleanliness -leaving the area as it was found.

3

Nature administrators could be concerned with such things as camp site management , trailbike management and bushwalking track management. Camp sites should blend in with their surroundings . (Two good examples are the Mt Buffalo campsite at Lake Catani and the Thurra river campsite on the coast of East Gippsland .) There should be an area set aside for campers without vehicles. Trailbikes should not be allowed in bushwalking areas . (I have encountered them on bush walking tracks in Gembrook Forest and near Marysville golf course .) Special trailbike parks , without trees , should be constructed such as the one recently created in Melbourne.

Bushwalking track management would entail the vexatious question of whether some existing tracks should be made into roads to allow four-wheel drive vehicles into remote areas . At the present time, decisions seem to be made on the basis of who can lobby the strongest.

It would entail suitable track creation (that is , not destroying the natural environment) such as the Great South West Walk in Victoria . These could possibly take some of the traffic off more established tracks .

When walking tracks do deteriorate , as inevitably they must , the tracks could be made out of bounds for a year or two until they are restored . This type of management already occurs with our roads (though on a lesser time scale of course) and in our national parks , where areas are fenced off for restoration purposes . This might be inconvenient but it is a small sacrifice to make in trying to preserve the joys of bushwalking for an ever increasing number of people who are seeking them .

Countryside north ofYea

4

Heather Cameron October 1984

Philip Larkin

CASCADES AND GRANITE NORTH OF MELBOURNE: A LOOK AT SOME LOVELY

BUT LITTLE KNOWN DAY WALKING AREAS

]opie Bodegraven

It's late Autumn , Winter or Spring and you want a pleasant day 's walk. Where can you go? The hills to the east and north east can be very cold and wet and you may be sick of tall forest. There are the areas closer to town on the.porth and west side, the You Yangs, Werribee and Lerderderg Gorges , Brisbane Ranges, Macedon . A beach walk can be fun if the weather is kind . Castlemaine is pleasant too for open forest and wildflowers. But what if you've been there and want something different?

How would you feel about a region that has babbling creeks, pretty cascades and waterfalls, interesting granite outcrops, green rolling hills , good views and an abundance of sunshine? Sounds nice doesn't it , and it is nice; in fact, it's one of my favourite areas- and it' s only 11/z -2 hrs drive from Melbourne. I refer to the granite country north of Yea and stretching also from Pyalong to Kyneton .

Being north of the Divide the area is blessed with more blue skies and sunshine than our cloudy south . From May to October, the whole area is a lovely green, setting off the granite rocks beautifully. Most of the areas are open farmland with some forested areas around Jacks Creek and Mt Tickatory, north of Yea. Average annual rainfall varies from 700mm around Pyalong to 900mm north of Yea. The main creeks normally flow most of the year, especially north of Yea.

Almost all of this lovely area is private property and this may upset some people, but it shouldn't . Permission must be obtained from the owners, of course, but almost without exception the farmers are very friendly and readily give permission , as well as information about the area . Make sure you obey the commonsense rules of leaving gates as you find them , using gates whenever possible and avoiding crops and stock .

Let' s look at the areas in more detail :

North of Yea

Access to Stewart Creek, Hughes Creek and Boundary Creek is fastest and easiest via Seymour. Reedy Creek and Jacks Creek are best approached from Yea. The Yea I :50,000 map covers all the areas mentioned except for Reedy Creek which is covered by the Alexandra I : I 00,000 map .

Jacks Creek

This is probably the pick of the bunch . Access is via a reasonable farm road to GR492170 . Apart from the first kilometre of valley floor , the area is forested . The ridges to the east have some very interesting outcrops and good views . The cascades and waterfalls start about I Vz km upstream and continue to the creek junction at GR488197 , where there is a top class campsite, ideal as a base for a lazy exploration of the area. Both arms of the

5

Breakaway Maps

o e I I I I I I

KILOMETRES

IN TEXT

• MT TICKATORY

J: .... a: 0 z

NORTH OF YEA

._ I I I I

I METCALFE AREA

6

\\ ,, \~ / ,_ ~/

~\(TOOBOORAC MT KOALA - ~ 1

/ '\ "'' '\ HAYES (" ~~

HILL I ,..._ '\~ 1- '\ -v..L I / "" \:.L

EMU I / '\ FLATfi-' PYALONG

_,- I Creek

I \ *" ) . o1\ '';" \\\s ' q, / ~0 ... ~

/, \Jo

TOOBOORAC­PYALONG AREA

creek rise in a series of falls and cascades for a further 1/2 km. The westerly arm is particularly magical. Be sure to ask at the farm at GR681873 (Alexandra I: 100,000) just over Reedy Creek before going on .

Reedy Creek

This is very close to a good road and is ideal for lazy explorers as well as the hardier ones. The cascades start near the farm at GR686894 (Alexandra I: I 00.000) and continue for about 11/z km. There are some real gems. The tributary entering at GR687897 is also pleasant. You could include Mt Concord nearby as part of a good walk. I doubt whether Reedy or Jacks Creek would dry up except in the most severe drought.

Boundary Creek

Cascades occur from GR453310 to GR446327. Don't be fooled by the flat bit in the middle. The ridges to the south and southwest are studded with outcrops. The farm to see for permission is Dropmore.

Hughes Creek

This creek is larger than the others with some good swimming holes , making it a possible summer spot. Best cascades are from the bridge at GR464336 to GR457342. Nearby Mt Tickatory has some very impressive granite slabs and outcrops and a great view.

Stewarts Creek

Two sets of cascades here , both lovely . from GR415336 to GR422339 and from GR419272 to GR406272.

Tooboorac-Pyalong Area

Access here is via Pyalong or Lancefield. Mollisons Creek gorge is small but quite spectacular. It goes from GR845164 to GR850 168 (Pyalong I :50,000). The rest of the creek is also lovely, with majestic old red gums lining a sandy and rocky creek bed . The ridges all around this area and up to Mt Koala GR787282 and Hayes Hill GR984938 (Woodend I: 100,000) are delightful.

Metcalfe Area

Access here is via Kyneton and the maps to use are the Castlemaine I: 100,000 or Metcalfe I :25,000. The jumbled Coliban Falls are at GR741982 and the Coli ban Cascades at GR739950. Granite Creek is a lovely little creek with a sandy and rock studded bed. It has a particularly beautiful waterfall and mini chasm at GR731968 and a lovely series of falls and cascades takes it over its last 300 metres or so to the Coliban River.

The Club has in recent years visited these areas on day walks and they have been most enjoyable . For late Autumn, Winter and Spring walks, these areas are hard to beat.

7

Jacks Creek, north of Yea Jopie Bode graven

8

HUTS OF KOSCIUSKO- SOME HISTORY AND FOLKLORE

Klaus Hueneke

South of Canberra adjoining a state which some Jindabyne locals have dubbed New Me-he-xi-co lies a vast biosphere reserve known as Kosciusko National Park or just plain ' Kossie '. A domain over 180 km long and up to 60 km wide it is a haven for wombats, kangaroos , echidnas , emus and gang-gang cockatoos. It has also become an outdoor mecca for alpine skiers , pack humping bushwalkers, white water canoeists , ski tourers, pot holers or spe-lunkers and the occasional hang glider exponent. These latter winged homo sapiens take off from the granite tors of the Rams head range , descend several thousand feet and come to a gentle halt on the manicured Thredbo golf course .

During their rise in a giant thermal they may get a speck size glimpse of Seamans hut , one of the shelter huts on the main range . It ' s a rocky citadel built in 1929 after the dramatic death of Seaman and Hayes on the slopes of Mt Kosciusko . Seaman ' s body was found in a sitting , waiting position at the edge of a snow drift and all that remained of Hayes was a collection of bones and clothes ravaged by wind and weather. He was found at the foot of the awesome cornice that overhangs Lake Cootapatamba for much of the year.

Other huts built on this eerie treeless plateau include Albina , Kunama, Blue Lake , Rawsons , Cootapatamba and Wragges observatory . All were built as shelter huts, for the gods that govern our weather can become extremely angry at this exposed elevation . Wragge and his stalwart employ­ees measured some of the strongest winds , thickest snowstorms , meanest temperatures and the wettest precipitation ever recorded in Australia. They spent three years on our highest peak between 1898 and 190 I . Those of you who have been sprung by a Christmas blizzard or jolted by a February thunderclap will know just how fickle and extreme the weather can be . It ' s a rare day when the air is cloud and wind free .

Wragges observatory was initially a centre-poled Arctic tent, but when this blew over in a February blizzard they replaced it with a weatherboard hut. This was a strange box-like structure with an internal stair attached to one side . It gave access from the roof during heavy snows. The same adaptation was incorporated into huts built by the Snowy Mountains Author­ity . Chimneys that never burnt any wood or saw any smoke apart from a pipe or ' roll you own ' were attached to Rawsons. Windy Creek , Spencers Creek and Cootapatamba. Only the latter is still in existence.

Some of these huts didn't last long. Windy Creek was pushed over by a creeping snow mass , Blue Lake was struck by lightning , Wragges burnt to the ground and Kunama was bowled over by a freak avalanche. The torrent of chunky snow cascaded offMt Clarke at sunrise on a cold morning in July 1956, crashed into the side of the hut , dislodged the wooden top story and in the collapse that followed killed a girl sleeping in the basement. It has been - touch wood - the only avalanche death in the Snowy Mountains. A

9

Australian Conservation Foundation works for walkers

Have you walked in South West Tasmania Kosciusko National Park Kakadu National Park Fraser Island?

~

Then ACF has added to your enjoyment by helping to protect these areas. Would you like to walk in

North Queensland Rainforests The Victorian Alps or The Forests of West Australia?

We are working to keep them in good shape for you to enjoy.

Will you help ACF by becoming a member?

r----------------------------, APPLICATION FOR ACF MEMBERSHIP

0 Yes, I would like to become a member. Ordinary $22 Pensioner $11

Please tick Student $11 (Please quote Student No .............................. .

0 Yes, I would like to subscribe to Habitat Australia. Six issues. Members$ 20 non~members $23

Name: .......... ............................................................................................. ..

Address: ........

Postcode: .. ...... Amount enclosed: $ .............................. .

Send to:

Australian Conservation Foundation 6728 Glenlerrie Road, Hawthorn, 3122 Telephone: 819 2888

L------------------------~~--~

10

plaque marking the death of Roslyn Twynam Wesche is attached to the extant rock foundation .

Death is inescapable and much of the folklore of the mountains is preoccu­pied with it. A son of Sanko Smith hung himself with his favourite stock whip, Ernie Hewitt the gold miner buried himself in his own tunnel , Bill Glennie got drunk and fell head first into his open fire and Mick Shanley was struck off his horse by a tree limb . He had been caught by a freak blizzard droving sheep into Wallace Creek near Three Mile Dam. One of the searchers found his body accidentally when he went over to uncover a bit of fur sticking out of the snow. It turned out to be Mick ' s beard . He was buttoned, top to bottom, in a full length oil skin .

The journey of the body across the mountains to its last resting place became something of an epic. For the first steep pull out of Wallace Creek they pushed, tugged and pulled at the body whilst someone went to Kiandra for a sled . Once up top Mick was strapped on and slowly coaxecJ.across the Kiandra Plain . Then came the descent of Alpine Hill . On one particularly steep slope , covered with tall Alpine Ash , Mick got away and went careering through the dense forest. But luck held and after a great slalom run that never hit a single tree the body and sled came to a gentle stop in the valley below. Fellow travellers couldn ' t help but remark that 'Old Mick never travelled so fast in all his life .' He was finally buried at Old Adaminaby .

Those who died in the mountains weren't all delivered to a fenced in formal cemetery or given a full Christian burial. Ernie Hewitt was left in his collapsed trench , several young daughters of the Flint family were buried in shallow graves along the Goobarragandra River (what a mouthful) and a group of di·ggers were buried out along the ridge to the fabled Lorna Doone

Seaman's Hut, the highest in Australia Klaus Hueneke

II

gold mine. The crude wooden crosses or hurriedly assembled cairns have long since disappeared and few of these bush graves are identifiable today. In all my wanderings I have only found one grave , that of a Williamson child near Daveys hut. It is marked by a lichen encrusted rock .

Daveys is a stockman' s hut on the edge of the frosty treeless Gungarlin Valley not far from Botheram plain. It was built over 70 years ago in an era of grazing , timber getting and gold and copper mining, activities that would be frowned upon today. Now conservation , recreation and scenery admira­tion are king and resorts like Perisher, Thredbo , Jindabyne and Guthega are booming . Slopes once graced by delicate shrubs, light bouncing snow gums and deep beds of yellow-green sphagnum have been replaced by knife edged staunchions, pogo sticks and concrete monoliths .

Acceptance of the new ethic of land use has not come easily amongst local farmers and in the freehold parts of the Upper Gungarlin the old patterns of land use continue unabated . Here one side of the boundary fence is covered with vast areas of regenerating snow gums and dense shrubs and the other by large areas of easily traversed open tussock. The cockies like to bum in the autumn to improve the pickings in the spring . A burning match over the shoulder every few hundred metres is a favourite approach . In winter this results in a stark landscape of charred spars sticking out of soft white snow. Sometimes the fires get away and bum well into the National Park.

Other things also get away and in big snow years I have sometimes encountered mobs of cattle and sheep caught in a white suffocating mantle . What for me is sheer pleasure and great stuff to telemark and glide on spells doom for them . One winter it was groups of too-weak-to-bellow cattle at Doubtful Gap and Crooks Racecourse and in the record snows of 1981 a mob of sheep on a rocky knoll near Brassy Gap. The snow was littered with dark black pellets and here and there a stiff woolly carcass. A spot of illegal grazing had come to a bitter end.

The big snow years are also good for wombats, at least the observing of them: they don ' t hibernate and when their food supply is meagre and covered with snow , spend much of the day ambling and foraging along open creek banks. They come in all shades of glistening black, matted brown and furry grey and are easily spied against the snow . On being chased some stop and quizzically squint at you , others take off in rapid rolling gait to the nearest burrow and a few make a defiant stand , bare molars and grunt. Towards the end of winter they are so hungry , cold and miserable that you can pat them unchallenged . Quite a few don't live through the next solstice .

There are literally hundreds of huts and hut sites in the Kosciusko National Park . All have been built since the demise of the Aborigines and the coming of the first explorers in the 1830s. Some like Coolamine, Curran go and Farm Ridge were once grand mansions and others like Boltons , Pugilistic , Bill Jones and Charlie Carters have always been primitive one-roomed structures with a dusty dirt floor , sacking beds and a fireplace adorned with an assortment of tins , billies and frying pans . Many consist of a mound of overgrown fireplace rocks and a decaying comer post and a few look as spick and span as the day they were born . This is largely due to the caring hands of sympathetic urban peasants who have taken over from the stockmen and mmers.

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N.S.W.

VICTORIA

-- Nat1onal Park. Boundary • Hut

• MaJOr Peak or Hill

0 Major Centre

- MaJor Road

-- Secondary Road

lO 20

kilometres

A.C. T.

KOSCIUSKO NATIONAL PARK HUTS

13

The stockmen and their four legged charges began to be phased out of the Park soon after its declaration in 1944. First it was the sensitive alpine areas above the tree line , then the bulk of the Jagungal wilderness and in the 60s only the northern plains and lower elevation leases were still grazed. The stockmen fought back with public meetings , angry letters and government lobbying and even now argue for the re-opening of lush summer pastures. One of their most vocal protagonists was Oliver Moriarty, an old ski tourer and founding member of Alpine hut. The hut was destroyed by fire in 1979.

Many huts fell into disrepair during the 50s and 60s and it wasn't until 1971 when the Kosciusko Huts Association was formed that ground was gained rather than lost. Some forty huts are now in the hands of caretaker groups and more are always welcome. Work parties are a great treat for mothers, fathers , singles, children and others especially when it comes to sitting around a rebuilt fireplace to share a tune or a noggin. At Boobee hut a group spent three weekends searching for elusive straight poles , adzing round ends into square ones, clambering up a 5 metre high superstructure rivalling some of the scaffolding seen in Asian cities and drinking copious quantities of black tea. The chimney that they built draws so well that you have to hang on to your serviette!

A hut close to my heart is Four Mile on the Kiandra gold diggings . It was built by Bob Hughes , a son of the skiing mailman of Kiandra, after the Elaine mine of which he was manager folded up. He built the hut using short slabs intended for tunnel supports. The cracks were sealed with hundreds of strips of iron on the outside and hessian on the inside. Each strip of flattened kerosene tin was held on by carefully placed flathead nails driven through individual leather washers. It's a delightful patchwork with much integrity.

On my first visit in 1975 the hut was in poor shape but full of rusty tools of trade . Bob had retired to Kiandra in the 50s and left behind many lengths of sluicing pipe , empty kerosene tins , a pile of rabbit traps and solidly made dynamite boxes filled with hinges, scrapers, hammer heads , pipe fittings and Austrian ski wax . The wax was a legacy of his early skiing days . Whilst rummaging and recording artefacts I uncovered some decomposing sticks of gelignite and was immediately warned to be careful. The stuff is very fickle and dangerous so I gingerly inched it into a tin and jettisoned all down the old dunny hole . Heaven help the wombat who digs there!

Several work parties later the hut sports a new rough sawn Alpine Ash floor, hessian lined walls, a reclad verandah, a filled in wombat burrow (the little beasts like the dry soil under the huts) and a more compact rock enclosed fireplace. We learnt much about bush carpentry (there are few true verticals here) , absolutely loved making mud pie mortar, boiled endless billies of smoked ocker tea and in spare moments went skink hunting amongst the rock rubble left by the miners of 1860. Skinks move faster than greased lightning.

Old Coolamine homestead is a mansion compared to Four Mile and because of its age and style requires attention on a far bigger scale. This is now coming through the Heritage Commission and the National Parks Service. The two slab homesteads there were built in 1883 and 1892 and over a period, surrounded by a log cabin cheese house, a big hay bam , several sheds for dairy cows and the spring cart , two dunnies including a double seater and a post office cum bathroom annex. The inside of the roof

15

of the cheese house was covered with grass thatch to keep the cheeses warm and the mud floor impregnated with bullock blood to keep it smooth and shiny.

Today much of the old glory of Coolamine is gone and you can step in and out through wall panels as well as doors. Tom hess ian flaps in the breeze, hundred year old slabs are converted to ash in the only remaining fireplace , newspaper wall covering of 1896 is read, ripped and discarded and the rubbish tip turned over for old bottles. As a full farmyard complex repre­senting almost every bush building style of the last hundred years , it is worthy of a better fate .

One of the proudest sayings of the older mountain people is 'Our door is always open for the lost , the weary and the hungry '. It 's an old tradition that has now come unstuck , for , ironically, with the popularity of ski touring and bush walking comes the problem of overcrowding . Until recently the loca­tion of many huts was known by only a few but now the onslaught has reached Gallipoli proportions . The impetus has partly come from the wide­spread manifestations of the 'Life be in it ' campaign and to some extent from a very controversial management document that proposed to remove half the huts between the Snowy River and Kiandra. This point of view was largely fuelled by a University based and North America influenced wilderness ethic that wanted all man made structures removed from large areas of the National Park. ' Depend on what you can carry on your back ' is the motto and guiding principle . Never mind our heritage , safety in the mountains and the needs of the less capable .

The opposing point of view came from experienced tourers , fishermen , locals , bushwalkers and people with continental roots . The mountain hut tradition is very old in Austria , Norway and Sweden and in much of their winter landscape one can tour from hut to hut for weeks on end. Sometimes the huts are stocked with provisions or managed by a suntanned caretaker and hi s family and occasionally they are simple and primitive like ours . Those of thi s conviction want to retain the huts and add more. Large spartan wooden huts with maori bunks and a winter caretaker have been recom­mended at places like Whites River, Bald Hill and Kiandra . Getting them approved and built is another matter.

The clashing of wills and pronouncement of many points of view resulted in heated controversy, intense debate and in some cases loss of friendship. Park managers responded with apologetic statements to the media and a promise that all aspects would be considered . The latest plan has led to the removal of two huts, Albina and Rawsons , and a recommendation that more than twenty be managed as historic sites. It appears that these huts , the icons of one hundred and fifty years of mountain occupation , will now be with us into the next century. It warms the cockles of my heart.

The author Klaus Hueneke is a self-employed photographer, writer, teacher and historian . His film 'Huts of the Snowy Mountains' is available from the National Library and his book on the history of the huts was published by A.N.U. Press in 1982. He is now working on two other books 'Kiandra to Kosciusko' and 'People of the High Country'. He can be contacted at 40 Miller St , O'Connor, 2601, A .C.T. phone (062) 48 7982.

16

CLIMBING UP TO THE SACRED HOME OF THE SPIRITS DEPARTED IN THE LAND

BELOW THE WIND

Sandra Mutimer

This is a very picturesque description of a mountain r visited but it is rather cryptic and doesn ' t give much indication of the name of the mountain or its whereabouts . so I'll give you a few more clues ...

It is a mountain 4.10 I metres high and is 6° north of the Equator in a temperate area surrounded by tropical jungles . lt is in a national park established to protect an unusual and special mountain environment, which includes a diverse and unique plantlife consisting of orchids. bamboos , rhododendrons. pitcher plants, leptospermums, oaks . chestnuts. laurels, myrtles, conifers. and many other plants .

Before you give up r will tell you that it is Mt Kinabalu (The Sacred Home Of The Spirits Departed) in Sabah (The Land Below The Wind). Sabah is a Malaysian state in Borneo and was formerly the British Crown Colony of North Borneo. Mt Kinabalu is situated in Kinabalu National Park , part of which is a wilderness area that is thought to provide a safe refuge for the rare dwarf Sumatran rhinoceros. The Park Headquarters is easily reached by a public bus service from Kota Kinabalu , 83 kms away . As we travelled along the well made road we gradually climbed onto the Crocker Range which runs through East Malaysia (as the two Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak are called). Mt Kinabalu looked most spectacular towering over the other

Mt Kinabalufrom Park Headquarters Bev Cooper

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mountains in this Range. with its summit appearing out of, and disappearing under. the clouds .

Mt Kinabalu was formed about l 1/2 million years ago when a large mass of hardened granite rock began to rise and break through the overlying crust of the softer rocks of the Crocker Range , which had been formed 19 million years previously. The mountain was shaped by the eroding forces of rain , ice and glaciers, resulting in the dome-like appearance of the summit and the jagged peaks surrounding it. Mt Kinabalu is split down the middle by a deep gorge . making aU-shape with Kinabalu east on one side and Kinabalu west on the other. It was this formation that led people to assume that the mountain was volcanic in origin rather than the granite intrusion it was later proven to be.

Mt Kinabalu was lost under the cover of a thick grey mist as I made my way around several of the trails through the forest surrounding Park Head­quarters , trail s leading to scenic viewpoints , following valleys and crossing streams. This was my introduction to the variety of plant life found on Mt Kinabalu , plant life which has evolved from interaction between climate and geology. Influences include past climates, geological history and odd geo­graphical connections. These combine to form one of the most botanically rich areas in the world.

The fauna of Kinabalu National Park is interesting-also , but is more representative of Borneo , and does not have the unique qualities of the flora . It includes orang-utans , gibbons , monkeys, leopard cats, clouded leopards , honey bears and , hopefully , the rare Sumatran rhinoceros. Unfortunately I didn't see any of these but I did hear a barking deer and saw a Kinabalu rat, which I really wished I hadn't as it was eating our chocolate in our cabin. I did see and hear many birds, however, as there are an estimated 300 species living in or visiting the park . Each vegetation zone has its characteristic birds, with the birdlife being more diverse at a lower part of the park which is tropic:~! rainforest area at an altitude of 152 metres . There are still many birds to be seen around Park Headquarters located at I ,554 metres, while the birds at the higher altitude of the summit zone are of quite rare species .

A pitcher plant Bev Cooper

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Park Headquarters is quite a pleasant spot with many attractions. It offers a range of accommodation and a reasonably priced restaurant serving deli­cious Malay and Chinese meals. There is a display of the many things that Kinabalu National Park has to offer, supplemented by guided walks and evening programs of illustrated talks or film shows.

The leptospermum trail Sandra Mutimer

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Not content with watching Mt Kinabalu elusively appearing out of the clouds and disappearing again, we were going to climb it ... the only problem was the 2,553 metres in height between it and us. This was the thought that crossed my mind as we set off, accompanied by our guide. (Our guide tended to be someone there 'just in case ' and the Guide Book provided far more guidance.)

Leaving the gravel road, we made our way along a trail winding through the montane rainforest of the Lower Montane Zone , extending between 912 and I ,824 metres, consisting of trees more representative of temperate climatic zones, such as oaks , chestnuts , myrtles and laurels . There were also tree ferns, several familiar ferns and beautiful orchids .

Gradually climbing into the Upper Montane Zone, between I ,800 and 3 ,200 metres, you could feel the temperature getting cooler and notice that the plants were not so densely patterned . There were beautiful rhododen­drons in flower in vivid shades of yellow, orange and red. There are 26 varieties of rhododendrons found on the mountain. I kept a watch out for pitcher plants (nepenthes), a plant for which Mt Kinabalu is well known as more than I 0 species can be found here. These are beautifully formed plants coloured green, maroon , pink and tan which blend in with the surrounding vegetation . The pitcher part of the plant develops into a deep pot from a modified leaf tip. Liquid is secreted in it which attracts insects and , in the larger pitcher plants, sometimes small birds and mammals . They are trapped when they find it impossible to escape up the slippery inner surface. They are then slowly dissolved and digested by the plant. Sir Hugh Low , one of the first to climb Mt Kinabalu, collected orchids , pitcher plants and rhododen­drons for his nursery in England . How exotic those plants must have seemed then in the 1850s.

Over half of the plants growing above 912 metres are endemic , the closest relatives of many of them coming from the high mountains of Australia, New Guinea and New Zealand. These include Southern Hemisphere conifers , such as the celery pine .

The shallower soil and cooler temperature are reflected in the stunted trees which are now becoming evident. Amongst these is leptospermum, closely relateci to our tea trees . Their gnarled and twisted trunks become more evident as the altitude increases. Green and gold lichens can be seen on the ground , rocks and trees, and hanging from branches .

Descriptions of the climate of this altitude refer to the thick, saturating mist. I would refer to it as a constant soaking drizzle. Later this deteriorated into heavy rain and chilling wind . Heavy drops of rain were falling from the trees, the path was becoming a small waterfall in parts and the mud and leptospermum steps were becoming quite slippery. I was now over 3,211 metres in the Sub-Alpine Zone where the granite core of the summit begins . To exist here plants must survive against heavy rainfalls, powerful winds and intense sunlight. The bright red flowers of a stunted rhododendron contrasted with the grey granite rock, which merged in with a sky of the same colour. Mosses, lichens and stunted varieties of leptospermum and rhododendron battle to survive here in rock cracks.

I started making comparisons with parts of Tasmania although it seemed incongruous that I could compare somewhere so close to the Equator with another so far south . It did occur to me that I might be suffering from the

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early stages of hypothermia. However. later. when introduced to an Aus­tralian botanist who was the visiting scientist of the month, I discovered that perhaps this comparison isn't so obscure. as he was investigating links between the plants of Mt Kinabalu and those of Australia . The amazing thing about this area is that botanists from so many different parts of the world can find links with the plants of their areas and those of Kinabalu National Park . It has been described as an area where the plants of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres and those of tropical, temperate and sub-alpine zones combine. The Asian-European connection resulted from a land bridge which existed during the ice ages. The connection with Australia and New Zealand is not so clear but an ancient link between these two localities is a strong possibility.

After negotiating the very slippery granite rock face I had now reached Panar Laban Hut which provided a welcome refuge from the rapidly deterio­rating weather. Situated at 3.344 metres, Panar Laban Hut is at the base of the granite rock face. down which water poured in several waterfalls. The summit above me was lost in clouds and mists. Late in the afternoon , with the temperature heading towards its daily low of 2°C, I hopped into my sleeping bag and ate my dinner of sandwiches and chocolate and settled down to try to get some sleep in readiness for my early start for the summit the next morning. I was beginning to question my sanity, thinking of what lay ahead of me. Was it worthwhile trying to make the summit when conditions suggested that the view from the summit might be completely clouded over? I knew that rain usually fell at this time of the day at this altitude but surely this rain couldn't clear by tomorrow morning . (The 'because it's there' approach never did have the appeal that the 'view from the top' held for me .)

I don't think I slept at all that night because of this concern, the sound of the heavy rain beating on the roof and the wind whistling around the hut, and the noise made by a group of Malaysians partying on through the night. Just before 3.30 a .m. I was awakened by my guide and prepared for the trip to the summit . wondering if Panar Laban. meaning ' place of sacrifice' was aptly named. Yes, I did know that I would be heading off in darkness at 3. 30 a .m . to climb up the remaining 748 metres to the summit . expecting to reach Low's Peak I 'h hours later at around about dawn before the summit became clouded over at about 9 a .m. Putting this into practice was another matter. Here I was , torch held in my mouth , both hands holding firmly onto the sides of a series of almost vertical bush ladders. the Ieptospermum branches of which were treacherously slippery. I also had to cross wet slippery rocks with the help of sodden heavy ropes which I found difficult to lift. All of this was negotiated by torchlight in darkness and with that constant soaking drizzle . A Dutch fellow whom I had met along the track and who had provided welcome company for me when my friend turned back on the first day. now turned back because he was feeling the effects of altitude. I continued on this steepest section of the track, hopeful that I would make it, but still very dubious if it would be worthwhile even if I did .

Just past Sayat Say at Hut at 3 ,8 I 0 metres it began to look as if the rays of the sun might be piercing through the mist and drizzle . The clouds seemed to be lifting . I began to feel encouraged- I actually might be able to see the view from the summit. I could just pick out the outline of Low's Peak 300

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metres above where I was. I slowly made my way across the slippery rocks. finding it exhausting to lift the heavy ropes but where possible making my way with their assistance . Stone cairns mark the route to the summit but I'm sure it would be impossible to pick your way along this trail when it clouded over without the assistance of your guide - definitely a 'just in case' situation!

Sunrise had arrived and visibility was good . I could see the jagged peaks that remained above the glacier, the pinnacles of the Donkey's Ears . St John ' s Peak and Low 's Peak- spectacular pinnacles and abysses formed by the erosion of weathered rock .

Plodding my way slowly towards Low ' s Peak, I thought of how difficult it would have been for Sir John Low and Spencer St. John, colonial officers in Borneo, as they made their way to the summit in 1858 . It was easy to understand how, after their barometer failed , they attempted to climb more spectacular peaks instead of climbing the more easily reached peak . which was later called Low's Peak. Thirty years later this was established as the highest point of the summit . It is believed that no local people had attempted to climb the mountain before this because of their belief that this would disturb the spirits that lived there . This belief also made it difficult for the early explorers to recruit local porters . Another problem experienced by the early explorers was the difficulties of making their way through dense tropical jungle to reach the base of the mountain .

Although I didn't have to face these obstacles. I still felt proud and exhilarated about standing here on top of Low ' s Peak, on the summit of Mt Kinabalu , 4 , I 0 I metres ( 13,455 feet) above sea level. As I sat there alone I experienced the eerie feeling of The Sacred Home Of The Spirits Departed. It had been worthwhile after all . I looked out over the Crocker Ranges spreading its way across Sabah and Sarawak, over the vast expanse of rainforest for which Borneo is well known, over the South China Sea, the lights of Kota Kinabalu and , nearby , the spectacular peaks of the summit and Low's Gully, a magnificent chasm sculptured by glaciers . Here I was on top of The Land Below The Wind, where it was still and the air was chilling (but it wasn't raining!). Snow doesn't fall here but ice has occasionally formed in the rock pools on the summit.

For a while I was able to ignore one feature which provided a sad contrast to the magnificent surroundings and the presence of this place . This was the disastrous mess that people had left behind them . There were names painted on rocks, cartons and bottles scattered all around, and lolly wrappers and packets too. How could people demean this place in such a way? There are rubbish bins all along the trail but unfortunately they don't seem to be used, so a group of men are employed to pick up the litter that appears all too frequently along the trail. It is unfortunate that these memories drift into otherwise very pleasant memories of my climb up to The Sacred Home Of The Spirits Departed in The Land Below The Wind.

As I made my way down the mountain, the brief respite I had from the rain was well and truly over and it poured. It was like a tropical rainstorm, even though I was in a temperate zone. I had climbed Mt Kinabalu at the wettest time of the year, in a particularly wet season and had made it down 2,553 metres of slippery dip back to Kinabalu National Park's Headquarters.

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I'M A MEMBER, BUT I'M NO BUSHIE

Wendy Taylor

It comes up in conversation occasionally and it's handy to be able to say I belong to the Melbourne Bushwalkers . Any further reference is restricted to shuffling my feet and muttering it's a long time since I've been on one of their walks .

It all started back in the late sixties. My elder brother went on a Melbourne Bushies day walk and ended up sleeping the Sunday night in the Lerderderg Gorge . I remember Dad bringing Philip home on the Monday- dirty , tired and hungry . I thought it was exciting.

Dad and I figured out a walk from the program that seemed suitable for a youngster to go on; an eight or nine mile wander around the hills west of Melbourne. We met up with the Bushies at Batman Avenue and caught a train to our destination. It was the best part of the day. The remainder was spent climbing steep hill after steep hill, falling into a blackberry patch, getting jammed in a fence and the leader becoming confused and doubling the actual length of the walk. We had to run the last couple of miles to the station to be in time to catch the train back to Melbourne.

I decided to be more selective about the walks I went on in future, and finally the right one turned up; a casual stroll over the sands at the beach, the promise of lots of time during lunch to go swimming, paddling or to laze around. But our leisure time disappeared as we battled against headwinds (my suspicion is that we were caught in the tail end of a cyclone), and lunch was spent huddled in sand dunes being whipped by grass with razor like edges and eating sand filled sandwiches.

Our leader pondered our dire straits and decided we were to scale the cliffs . There wasn't much choice; the water by now was eddying around our knees . Terrified at the thought of having to swim for it I climbed. Pausing to catch my breath after a couple of minutes I looked down between my trembling knees to see the surf crashing, seemingly , only a few feet below. It stirred me enough to complete the climb heedless of other people, scraped knees and fingers bleeding from digging into the rock to find holds.

It was enough walking and climbing for me for a while. I don't remember what I did while Dad was out on his day walks or Philip trekked over the high plains on weekends. The only interest I had was taking part in the delicious suppers Mum prepared on their return.

The time arrived when I was old enough to become a member, and I went on my third, qualifying walk. Memories of it are restricted to walking down from the summit of Donna Buang in sleet and rain, plucking leeches from my legs and being too late into Warburton to sample the renowned straw­berries and cream our leader had been promising.

I'd done it. I was a member! There was no time for celebration as I had just started work and life was hectic. Time faded the scars the leeches had left and aching leg muscles were nothing compared to aching arm muscles from strap hanging on public transport.

A year passed and Philip, Dad and I decided it was time for a break. We decided to go on the President's weekend walk. It was a first for Dad and me

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but Philip assured it was always a bludge, and everyone had a great time. So there we waited on Friday night at Batman Avenue in the rain . The weather bureau had forecast a fine weekend, so we were not deterred . It wasn't long before the Gronow ' s van arrived, and we were all snug in the back of it. It was still raining when we reached Seymour and hadn't eased any by Benalla. Our leader decided we would camp near Glenrowan for the night. I should have twigged that things weren ' t progressing as they should have been . but I had faith; this was the President's weekend!

Three o'clock Saturday morning I was wandering around camp. Dad and I had pitched our tent and gone to sleep. I had awoken to the last of the air escaping from my lilo and the sound of water trickling through my sleeping bag. It was time to evacuate and find a dry spot to sleep. I found it , and slept the remainder of the night perched on top of Philip's pack in his tent.

It was a motley bunch that assembled about 7 a.m. A roaring fire an­nounced we could start on breakfast . Some of us deferred, preferring instead to dry off clothes, sleeping bags and ourselves. The rain had finally stopped and although cold and overcast this was the President's weekend! It didn't take long to pack up and an even shorter time for all the windows in the van to mist up as our journey continued . We passed the cancelled Friday night camping site; just as well, the river had broken its banks and there was nothing except water to be seen .

I was still muttering to myself that I was enjoying the weekend when the van stopped and our leader showed us where we would be spending the rest of the weekend walking, along the top of the Amphitheatre south of Beech­worth. Packs were heaved onto backs and we struggled our way up the ridge. The fog descended and the rain started again as we halted for lunch , which was miserable with a smoking fire and waterlogged tucker. Our leader assured us we were making good progress and weren't we all having a wonderful time . I gritted my teeth, demisted my glasses and concentrated on trying to stop the rain from dribbling into my boots .

Storm blowing in from the south-west

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Philip Larkin

We left the grazing land and followed a faint cattle pad through the bush. The hours passed in a blur of dripping water, forcing our way through saturated tree branches and lifting one mud covered boot after the other.

I was half way through a barbed wire fence when I saw it . Just visible in the swirling fog and rain was a bitumen road . It didn't matter any more about being wet and cold, water dribbling into my boots or my glasses being permanently fogged up. I had found civilisation and I refused to leave it. Someone mentioned that once we had crossed the road and disappeared into the bush on the other side , our evening camp was not far away. More appealing was the knowledge that at the end of the road was a hot non­waterlogged meal, clean sheets , and a handkerchief instead of a grubby shirt sleeve to take care of my sniffles. Dad and I hitched a. ide into Beechworth and courtesy of a friend were driven to Wangaratta where we caught a train back to Melbourne .

Jt was no consolation to find out later others had dropped out during the weekend , that it had kept raining and no-one had enjoyed themselves .

It was the end . I paid my dues every year, but kept well away from bushwalks. Then I met him. He was in the Y.H.A. and young love being what it was , I joined too. A group of us headed up to Feathertop one weekend. On Friday night we slept in a campground laundry; all the camp sites were flooded out. The next morning we climbed the Bungalow Spur, and by lunchtime were mockingly admiring the view of fog and rain as we stood on the summit of the mountain. Camp was set up near Federation Hut , and the afternoon passed with us huddled in the hut keeping an eye on the weather .

Sunday moming was peaceful. The light filtering through my tent was bright and in anticipation of a great day I threw back the flap. At the same time I discovered the great day was caused by the light filtering through the yellow tent canvas J groaned at my surroundings; there was about twelve inches of fresh snow, and more threatening to fall from the grey clouds. I lost what little faith I had left, packed my gear and broke the trail down the spur to Harrietville.

Not long after, J left Melbourne for a job three hundred kilometres away. I still went camping in the bush, but used the motorcycle or four wheel drive for transporting my tent, sleeping bag and cooking gear. I gave my pack away to an unknowing innocent about to start bushwalking.

It's about nine years now since I've been on a bushwalk with the Club. Once a year I get a copy of the newsletter announcing I must pay my dues, and I send off the subscription form and cheque. Each year I feel more guilty about it. Sometimes I look at a program and think it is time to try another walk , but even as I ponder I subconsciously start scratching at the faded leech and barbed wire scars on my legs, and lose interest.

These days I have other hobbies. There are twenty four volumes in my stamp collection and I have just finished crocheting afghan square no 14, 533. I would dearly love to have a tangible token of my years of membership, something to remind me in the years to come of just how hard I fought to become a member. A Melbourne Bushies badge would seem applicable, but I am afraid that I lack not only the nerve to apply for one, I haven't got the cheek either!

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SUNDAY WALKS ARE A MOST APPEALING FEATURE OF THE MELBOURNE

BUSHW ALKERS CLUB

Christina Thornley

'The wonderful purity of nature at this season is a most pleasing fact and it is invigorating to breathe the cleansed air'.

I heartily concur with Thoreau's sentiments on nature. hence my recent involvement with the Melbourne Bushwalkers .

Unlike Thoreau, I prefer to walk with company where one can compare so many different impressions of the ever changing countryside and the flora and fauna of our beautiful, native land.

For instance, on a recent walk, we were so saddened by the discovery of a dead wombat which had been shot. Yet , we were enthralled by the mountain ash and tree ferns in the magnificent verdant rain forest near Warburton.

One Sunday, we took a marvellous trip to an area near Mt. William. Mollisons Creek Gorge was one of the loveliest scenes I have ever experi­enced. The late May afternoon sun filtering through those noble redgums set my heart pounding . I still cannot forget the hypnotic effect the sound of the rippling creek and the magpies' warbling had on me.

Another Sunday in July , we took a rather treacherous but beautiful tour through Wilhelmina Falls near Marysville. The torrent of water bounding down had a most euphoric effect on my group. On the journey there, we saw many wattle trees which looked like marvellous splotches of saffron , deco­rating the countryside.

Sunday walks have made me realise what a wonderful, diversified state Victoria is. We have bush bashed in areas near the Black Spur and the next week have leisurely strolled through farmers' pasturelands .

From week to week we witness subtle seasonal changes. In winter, the time of the sunset, the coldness underfoot and the frost on the ground all indicate the time of year.

Springtime will be such a delight! The scents of the new wild flowers, birds hopping from branch to branch will soon remind me of Vivaldi's 'Spring'.

There is a choice of two walks on Sundays and I invariably take the easy walk. This enables me to savour the beauty of the surroundings at a more leisurely pace . My outdoor adventures become inspiration for poetry and stories.

The memories of 'all the green' leave me with a harmonious balanced feeling for the ensuing week of city living. Sunday walks are my escape from the everyday humdrum battle of the smog ridden city atmosphere . This enjoyment is not an innovation from the Silicon Chip, this is a wonderful new world where one can escape from such urban mundanities . I return home in the evening from a walk to my creature comforts, pleasantly fatigued , with not an atom of tension.

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Being a novice. r do not as yet possess any camping equipment . Therefore these short interludes with nature on Sundays do not infringe upon my bank account. comfort , health or latent fears of the proverbial ' creepy craw lies ' .

We experience just enough of the elements to feel proud of our efforts yet not daunted by the thought of having to camp out. For example, on a recent trip to Blairgowrie, our group experienced bleak wintery weather for several hours. My feet had been saturated early in the walk from an unpredictable wave. Yet we all had the security of knowing we would soon return to our cosy homes .

The day walks are an excellent introduction to communing with nature for those who value their comforts too much to brave weekend walking (some may consider them ' soft ' ). An intermediate stage between day walks and weekend walks are the Club 's base camps . rand many other novice walkers look forward to joining these camps when the weather improves - the easy ones. of course!

Mollisons Creek, north of Yea Jopie Bodegraven

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EXTENDED BUSHW ALKING

Bill Metzenthen

For me , the core of bushwalking lies in extended trips . i.e. those which involve over-night camping. Whilst a day trip has its own advantages, it lacks many of the important features of a longer trip . I find that (within reasonable limits) the longer the bushwalking trip , the more enjoyable and memorable it is likely to be .

In this short article I want to convey what I think are some of the reasons I enjoy spending time in the bush and why extended trips enhance that e njoyment. I will mention a few aspects of what the bush means' to me . This is not necessarily a coherent view but rather a patchwork which , Viewed overall. may have some sort of meaning .

Other people doubtless enjoy the bush for reasons which are not in common with mine . Harry Frauca in his 'Pack Manual of Exploration', in a passage about bushwalkers in eastern Australia and Tasmania , comments; ' Instead, their bushwalks are mere ego trips which bring no benefit to the community or to civilization as we know it. Bushwalking should never be an end in itself but a means to an end; in this respect I feel that all bush walking clubs should make an effort to collect rainforest plants under scientific supervi sion .' Whilst not entirely disagreeing, I find this a rather extreme utilitarian view of human conduct. I like to avoid making value judgements on the way in which others enjoy the bush, although I prefer some restriction of the activities of trail bike riders etc.

Perhaps the most easily identifiable factor of my enjoyment of the bush and which perhaps best characterizes it , is that for me being in the bush is essentially experiential and sensuous. In contrast, I believe that other people derive much of their enjoyment from a more intellectual approach, for example seeking to identify that bird , or categorize this plant . These activ­ities hold little attraction for me , I am mostly content to experience, to get re-creation from the bush . I do not wish to reject or devalue any sort of intellectual appreciation of the bush, it just so happens that I normally get my intellectual satisfaction from other sources .

Among my senses, the sense of vision provides the most varied and intensive enjoyment to me . To me, the vision of some scenes is sheer bliss. I can sit and soak pleasure from the subtle shades of green on a nearby hill-side. The view from a Tasmanian mountain-top can be especially pleasurable . A High Plains meadow seems to contain an almost infinite variety of wonderful things to see.

What is more , a visual experience consists of more than the shapes, textures, shades and colours which reach the eye. The context is important . On a trip to Tasmania , we were finding our way up a ridge which was shrouded in cloud when a brief opening in the cloud revealed a magical view of a lake far below our feet. The beauty of that scene was enhanced by its unexpected nature , by the fact that all else was hidden, and by the doubts we were having about our journey . Also, having spent some real effort in reaching a location adds much to the subsequent value of the scenery .

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One can attempt to capture a visual experience in a photograph and for me . photography is an important part of the experience of the outdoors but it is difficult to capture much of the essence of a grand scene in a photograph and even the best never do complete justice . As pointed out, the quality of a visual experience depends not only upon the actual scene but the conditions under which it is experienced . An expensive coffee-table book of photo­graphs does not, for me, match the single experience of actually standing on a peak in the Western Arthurs and beholding the view of the procession of peaks of the mountain range snaking into the distance. Of course the reverse can be true, and a scene which is quite mundane can become quite dramatic in a photograph .

Static scenes are not the only ones of importance. For instance, the sight of certain repetitive but subtly varying motion has an almost hypnotic effect. The motion of water in a stream or over a waterfall is a wonderful example of this . The flames of a camp-fire have a similar fascination , particularly of the evening camp-fire .

I find that the other senses are far less important to get my enjoyment than vision is. Only occasionally does my sense of smell get enough stimulation in the bush that I become aware that there are indeed smells here to experience.

Extended walks are important to these sensuous experiences for several reasons. Firstly, for access - much of the best of the bush is realistically available to most of us only through an extended walk. Secondly, you normally need to put more effort into an extended trip - at least in getting yourself organized - and 'hard won fruits taste the best'.

Whilst on an extended walk , I can get a sense of belonging to the bush which is absent on a day walk . Fundamentally, on an extended walk. you are reliant on your own resources - your ability to carry your shelter, food , and emergency gear - your ability (or that of your leader) to navigate and find your way around unexpected obstacles - and your ability to cope with unexpected emergencies . In this respect you are on an equal footing in the environment with the birds , the snakes, the wombats, and other animals. This sense of belonging to the bush is important to my enjoyment probably because I have been inculcated with a popular romantic notion of the bush.

As well as this feeling of belonging , the independence gained by carrying all your own requirements gives a sense of freedom . Freedom from almost all the restrictions which afflict us in our suburban lives. The other side of this is the bearing of complete responsibility for one's own welfare .

A sense of achievement is another reward for an extended walk. This is particularly so if one is attempting a physically more demanding walk or navigating through more difficult country. Incidentally , navigation by itself has its own rewards- witness the popularity of sports such as orienteering . There is thus ample motivation for members of a party to navigate in addition to the leader- and it provides a check on the leader' s navigation .

Up to this point I have not mentioned the social aspect of bushwalking. This is because I do not feel it is a feature peculiar to extended walks although the people you meet on extended walks are likely to be more motivated towards the bush than those you see on day walks. Most of my bushwalking takes place in the company of others , however I find that an occasional solo walk has its own special attraction , particularly with respect

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to the aspects I have mentioned above of freedom , self-reliance and a sense of achievement.

Well, there it is. I have tried to briefly analyse some of the reasons why I enjoy extended bushwalking trips . Perhaps you have found some of it of relevance to you. If you have not yet tried an extended trip . even for just a weekend , perhaps it is because you have some lingering doubts about the difficulties involved. Perhaps you don ' t have enough camping equipment or are worried about the physical difficulty of carrying a pack. Don ' t let these deter you , relatively little equipment is required for most walks in warmer weather and the most expensive items of what you require can be hired. The total weight you need to carry is really quite low , especially if you share a tent and don't make the mistake of carrying heavy foods such as canned food . If you belong to a walking club you are bound to find plenty of people who are willing and able to supply helpful advice on these matters.

Somewhat paradoxically, although I will be pleased if I have influenced you in some small way to increase your enjoyment of the bush by trying extended walks, I hope that our paths do not meet in the bush , for my enjoyment (and no doubt yours) is at its greatest when I have a feeling that my group is the only one for miles.

Weekend walkers in Bogong National Park Philip Larkin

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FIRST TIME ON THE BLUFF

Graeme Laidlaw

The Bluff- in the very name the weekend walker senses a challenge . The be lief is justified when the mountain is seen- steep, high and rugged.

After our overnight camp at the traditional Sheepyard Flat, our group starts up the track from 8 Mile Creek. It is the weekend before Christmas, so as the sky is c lear, we welcome shadier sections because already the climb is becoming hard work. Once or twice the track levels; no-one argues about having a break. Now the closest companions are hearts beating strongly, breathing that is deep and regular and legs seeking assurance that the task is finite . Sweat constantly dribbles into my eyes, but to take off my sunhat to wipe them disturbs my rhythm . Now we see strong reflections . Some cars have come up the road and already a few of the occupants have returned from the top , and not even with day packs . No wonder they could speak so easily - but will their sleeping spot tonight match ours?

At last we are above the tree- line . It is mainly a scramble as we pick our way on the soft grass, between rocks and past occasional trickles of water (but nothing worth the effort of stopping and restarting) .

Wonderfully, the slope eases a little and there we are on the broad whale 's back that is the summit. I drape my clothes on the grass. I want them to air but more , I want to feel the rejuvenating breeze . The light has an intensity of clarity which recall s the brilliance of the High Plains under a winter sun .

During lunch we enjoy the views, enough of them if they were in a book to cause a coffee table to groan . Our packs, like our steps, are now lighter and we head for camp . We go past the cairn and across to the south-east side. Here I am brought to a stop, I am surprised so pleasantly . At other times, when I had seen The Bluff from north or west it had seemed gloomi ly forbidding. Such had been my thoughts in the days before the walk, my first on the mountain. But here below was a broad terrace , gently beautiful with sheltering snow gums , a tiny meandering creek and wood for the fire .

After the luxury of unhurriedly choosing one of the many camp-sites we pitched our tents . Some of the group went on a side-trip but I just ambled through the area, apparently aimlessly . Really I wanted to savour the light , the shade, the warmth or coolness, the swish of grass over feet, every impression that I could take . The efforts of the morning's climb seemed far away, a small price for such a sating of the senses. The joys of the day continued with tea and the washing-up done in daylight- no scouring away by the light of a torch held in the mouth .

Of course I wanted to see the setting of the sun and to be on my own . Being alone is different when the trees and the rocks are there with you . I was a little early at the cairn and the breeze was chilly so I snuggled down behind some low bushes, well protected but still able to see the changing clouds in the west . All this time the mountain 's shadow was stretching and what a shadow it was , reaching Howitt and even Speculation and the Razor. Soon it was dark and quiet, apart from the breeze . I made my way back and down to the others with care, not needing to use the torch .

32

Bogong and Feathertop had always been my favourites but now The Bluff had joined them. The Bluff had been kind, letting me feel its massive strength and myriad beauties without demanding much payment. When I go a second time, perhaps in winter, the mountain might seek redemption ofthe debt.

The Bluff

From The Bluff looking towards Crosscut Saw

33

MarkLemair

Fred Halls

THE MT ANNE CIRCUIT

Mark Tischler

As I lay dozing in my tent listening to the wind roar and hoping that the next blast would not utterly destroy the tent, I wondered why I had chosen South West Tasmania for my Summer holidays. I had glimpsed a hint of summer on my way down the Franklin a few weeks earlier but it lasted only a few days. Now it was early March , a time which in Victoria would be bringing warm balmy days and cool nights . But here in Tasmania winter seemed to have set in early. I had expected the worst from all that I had been told of the South West's notorious weather, and it seemed that I was getting it . A severe cold front had come from the south , pinning us down at our Judds Charm camp for two days.

Our timing in walking the Mt Anne circuit had been far from perfect. We had climbed up from the road at Condominium Creek, our bus drop off point , in the middle of the day in what seemed like sweltering heat , although it was a mild warm day . The heat was exaggerated by having to struggle the 680 metres to the High Camp hut , affectionately called the Mt Anne Hilton . It was a welcome sight and I was thankful for not having to set up my terit for the night. Carrying the 601b pack (tent, stove and food for 9 days) had taken its toll on me . With two companions I had met up with on the way to Mt Anne , we had a late lunch and went for an afternoon stroll to the top of Mt Eliza to see the view. It was only another 240 metres above the hut , through a lovely collection of boulders which are a feature of the Mt Anne area .

Dolerite is that huge crystalline rock formation found in much of Tasmania' s Central highlands and its impressive forms are what have given Tasmania that rugged look , which makes for pleasant views but demands careful and tiring walking. The views from the top of Mt Eliza are superb and the views of Lake Judd very impressive. The Eliza plateau has many small tarns providing a wealth of photographic possibilities . We returned to spend a cozy night in the hut , visited of course by the local fauna.

The next day dawned clear yet again and we packed quietly , hoping to get to the summit of Mt Anne for clear views of South West Tasmania from its highest point. We were not disappointed , both in the walk to the summit and the clear views all around. We seemed so far from any civilization. The only thing that marred the view was the dam walls of Lake Pedder and the Scotts Peak dam , alien intrusions in the wilderness. We reluctantly descended the summit to choose our campsite at Shelf Camp. Though fairly exposed, the weather was still kind to us and the views offered by such a site were hard to surpass, with Mt Anne and its largest cliffs showing a proud side to the mountain. We camped beside quiet pools and stunted King Billy pines and woke in the morning to a glorious view of mountain mists around Mt Lot (which foretold a weather change , one more severe than we had expected). We crossed the thin ridge to Mt Lot and scrambled down Lightning Ridge in still reasonable weather to camp in sheltered spots by Judds Charm Lake .

This is where we had spent the last two days , waiting for the weather to clear before we could start to make our way off the plateau near Mt Sarah Jane. There had been heavy snow and rain. The few times that there was a

34

Mt Anne from Lightning Ridge Mark Tischler

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lull in the weather we ventured out to stretch our legs , check our tents and take photos of the snow on Mt Lot above our campsite . We read , played games and visited each other's tents for meals to relieve the boredom. Finally, on the third night when my companions' tent ripped disastrously in a violent wind gust at I a.m. , we decided the time had come to leave . We three spent a crowded night in my tent waiting for the morning.

Luckily, the next day the wind had quietened considerably and it was feasible to walk to the comparative shelter of the valley below. We setout in poor visibility and just glimpsed Mt Sarah Jane before descending to the Anne River and the Cable Crossing campsite . The rain had now ceased making a good fire possible to dry our clothes and gear. It had been a frustrating three days but an exhilarating trip in all, and now the weather was clearing. The next day was spent repairing the tent with metres of tape so it would last the next couple of days . That night we witnessed a most spectacu­lar sunset over Lake Pedder.

Schnells Ridge, just south of Mt Anne , was our last destination. We were forced to bypass it in the foul weather, but now it was clear and sunny and the views from the top of the ridge to the south were superb .

We did not look forward to our return to civilization after a week in the South West. an area I had enjoyed immensely with its changing moods . The experience has left a lasting impression on my mind. This, one of the last remaining wildernesses, is an area not to be taken lightly. If people remem­ber this, the South West of Tasmania will provide similar joyful experiences for them also .

High Shelf Camp, Mt Lot Mark Tischler

37

RANGING THE BARRIER

Graham Wills-Johnson

It was very heavy. and I wondered if I ought to throw some of it away. But out here. a hundred k north of Broken Hill, you thought twice about something like that. Maybe I would wait a while and see what sort of a mob we'd landed up with.

In September 1983 the city of Broken Hill celebrated its centenary. The mob we'd landed up with was The Barrier Rangers, a local bushwalking group whose contribution to the city's celebrations was to stage 'Across the Barrier '. Invitations had been sent out to bushwalking clubs all over Aus­trali a to join a five-day I 00 km walk across the Barrier Range from Euriowie in the north to Silverton. west of Broken Hill itself. In moments of wild optimism they had supposed that maybe three or four visitors would tum up from other places. After all, it's a long way from anywhere else to Broken Hill . Now. on a sunny Wednesday morning as we clambered out of the bus and faced the barren Byjerkemo Range, they were still getting over their astonishment that seven or eight of us from Melbourne and as many as twenty from Sydney had taken them up on it , outnumbering them by about two to one.

I began to worry less when the walk did not commence with a sprint up the rocky slopes towards the crest of the Byjerkemo Range. Instead we headed down into the creek and before long were working our way up a gorge through the range , coming out about twenty minutes later on the far side , at the site of an old tin mine . Although Broken Hill and the Barrier Range are in far western New South Wales , spiritually the area is part of South Australia. It was opened up in the '70s and '80s of the last century by miners of Cornish stock moving up from the country around Burra . The di strict even takes local time from South Australia, and has half forgotten that Sydney , not Adelaide, is the capital.

There was plenty of time at the scattered ruins of the mine to visit the levels cut into the slopes of the range where the workings had been , or re-pack to get rid of the lumpy bits that had already made their presence felt, or just enjoy the sunshine.

' You want to be careful around the open shafts', said Barney. Barney was one of the Barrier Rangers- we were only now beginning to sort out who was who. 'Do people fall down them?' we asked. 'One or two a year, ' he said. ' Last one was a bikie . Tried to jump his bike over the shaft. Didn ' t make it. ' 'Oh', we said. 'He lived' , said Barney. 'Went down with his bike. Rode 'er all the way to the bottom . It was a long time before he came out of hospital, though'. We decided that jumping trailbikes over the open shafts was off for the time being .

By this time the botanisers were totally preoccupied, and another Barrier Ranger, Chris , was able to help them considerably with her local know­ledge. Not being of a botanical bent myself, I'm afraid I cannot tell you what they found , but the hills were red with wild hops in flower, and some of the best rains in years had transformed the entire range . We had headed into another gorge, the precise location of which it is not my intention to divulge.

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Here there is a splendid collection of aboriginal rock carvings, much more extensive than those at Sacred Canyon in the Flinders Ranges, and almost completely free of the depredations of modem vandals. It is on private property. Honest travellers will have no hesitation in making themselves known and obtaining permission, and the other sort are best left in the dark. The carvings were on rocky walls around a pool in the bottom of the gorge, and the newer ones showed up strongly against the rich, dark red patina of weathering on the surfaces ofthe rocks into which they have been scratched . Some of them must be very ancient. The contrast with the surrounding rock has begun to fade as the exposed surfaces weather in their tum.

Aboriginal rock carvings, Barrier Range

39

Graham Wills-Johnson

The nineteenth century miners built a concrete dam wall about ten metres high across the gorge to impound a water supply. Twice this was extended upwards by another metre or so as the dam silted up. A couple of the desperately fit young men from Sydney swarmed up to the top of it and reported that even with the extensions, the dam was full to the brim with silt, no more than a couple of inches of water lying on the top. Already there is quite a large tree growing from some cracks in the main wall about h;llfway up, and with such a huge weight behind it, some day the wall will doubtless collapse, though it is unlikely that anyone will be there to observe what should be quite a spectacle .

During the first day we crossed the Barrier itself, if that be taken to be the divide between water which (theoretically) flows into the Darling and water which (even more theoretically) flows into Lake Frome. Although the highest point on the walk, and the highest point in the entire Barrier Range, Mt Robe, would not be reached until Saturday morning, the whole of the rest of the walk lay within the Lake Frome watershed. From the top of the divide, through the heat haze of mid afternoon and an obligatory cloud of thirsty flies, we could see Mt Robe far, far away in the distance. It didn'tdo to think too much about that, particularly as the incredibly hard rocky ground that had been underfoot almost invariably so far (and was so to continue) had already raised blisters on the soles of feet that hadn't done enough bush­walking lately. I cannot remember when I've seen so much ground so hard!

It was a weary group that came to Torrowangee as the winter sun hung low in a cloudless sky . Although the pace and the slopes were gentle, it was the longest day's distance for the entire walk- and that ground was so hard! 'Ah, yes', Barney had said at one stage . 'The Barrier Rangers . . . totally disorganised. We extend this service to others' . Perhaps he just wanted to see what we would believe: that remark at least was completely untrue . It is true that the style was quite nonchalant, but insofar as the Rangers admitted to having a leader, the leader was Peter. Most ofthe day he had been steering things quietly from about a third of the way back; now he was suddenly at Torrowangee ahead of everyone else, bringing carboys of fresh water out from where they had been dumped several weeks before under a large pepper tree. Behind the scenes very thorough preparations indeed had been made.

Although at the time of the walk there was quite a lot of surface water remaining after recent rains, it was too brackish to be drinkable . The walk would not have been possible without water supply dumps having been put out at the campsites in advance, nor environmentally acceptable without collection of the empty carboys and other discarded items (including walkers who found the undertaking rather tougher than they had expected) after­wards. Arrangements had been made for a car to come out from Broken Hill to each camp in tum, bringing walkers who were joining the walk part way through . A Monday holiday had been declared in Broken Hill, and the walk had been planned to finish on the Sunday night in Silverton with a rip-roaring barbecue which would need, according to all the promises, a Monday holiday and perhaps the rest of the week to recover from. Unfortunately Monday morning would see both Rosemary and myself back at work in Melbourne after spending Sunday driving, so we were to be taken out with Sunday morning's empty carboys and other rubbish, missing the last day of the walk .

40

RANGING THE BARRIER

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42

Now , however, after a night that was all too short, at least as far as blistered feet were concerned. it was bright and hot and Thursday morning as we left the solitary chimney, the railway embankment and the clump of pepper trees which were all that was left to show that Torrowangee once had been important. We started up the barren ridges to the west . Over the first crest. in the slopes of a rocky gully , a scattering of small leafy green plants with unusually large flowers brought the botanists to a halt. It was quite obvious to me what they were . and I was silly enough to voice my opinion. which was received with total lack of enthusiasm . The official verdict was an open finding : some things in the desert only flower once every thirty years or so when rain and weather happen to be just right , and this was undoubtedly one such species . Well, that was the official finding . but to me they will always be the last legacy of the lost village ofTorrowangee - the struggling surviving descendants of ranunculi escaped from the miners' wives ' gar­dens. dwarfed and desert-adapted . We followed a fence line (for this is still grazing land) up to the crest of the higher stony ridge beyond.

The open country had been left behind now , and a pattern of rocky ridges was dissected by streams in narrow valleys . One of the Rangers pointed out what could still be seen of old coaching roads cut into the sides of the hills . We descended a steep spur and spent much of the rest of the morning following a tributary down to where it joined Campbells Creek. Here , for the first time since the walk began, was running water, brown and clear, running between the rocks in a broad stream bed. I tasted it. It was salty. Not so salty as to be undrinkable, I suppose, but definitely unpalatable. Within a few weeks, if no further rain fell, even Campbells Creek would probably stop flowing and become a chain of waterholes . The leader, who at the time our detachment had left in the morning had given every appearance of spending the rest of the day enjoying the sun and trying unsuccessfully to summon enough inspiration to start packing up back at Torrowangee, now came into sight, and without a moment's pause , headed purposefully down Campbells Creek . It looked as though there was yet to be a long hard slog before a late lunch, so it was with both surprise and relief that we came upon him some twenty minutes later in a gorge which the creek by then had entered, sitting in the shade of a big gum tree on a sandy beach next to a deep pool, the other side of which was a perpendicular wall of rock. An early lunch and a swim had been declared, and already the howls of agony from some of the front-runners who had taken to the water attested to its piercing coldness .

The general direction of the walk had been west south westerly and brought us nearly right across the Barrier, so that we were now only one or two ridges in from where the country dropped abruptly and flattened out into desert plains running all the way to Lake Frome . A kilometre below the place where we had lunch on Campbells Creek, however, the route turned sud­denly and headed in a south south easterly direction up Brewery Creek, its major tributary. High up on a ridge on the left we could see an old bus body, painted white. That was the Paragon Mine, we were told. The bus body had been the workers ' accommodation . Whereas it had all been tin mining over on the Byjerkerno side of the Barrier, on this western side all the shows were silver-lead. Crossing some open country where the two creeks met, we entered the gorge of Brewery Creek right under the ridge with its incon­gruous automotive adornment.

43

Brewery Creek was also running, though perhaps not quite as strongly as Campbells Creek . I didn't try the water. In places where the sand was drying out along the edges a thin film of salt crystals made a light patina which glittered in the afternoon sun . Brian , another of the Rangers, told me that the salt was the result of one of those paradoxes of the outback: the heavy rains of 1974, far from being a benefit in some areas , had actually killed a lot of the trees by raising the water table and bringing up the salt with it. Now, nine years later , it was still leaching out of the topsoil and getting into the creeks . We spent the rest of the afternoon working our way up the gorge of Brewery Creek until we reached the beginning of a large meander which would have added two or three extra kilometres to the day's walking . Then it was a case of climbing up onto the ridges again to make the short cut.

Perhaps it was a quality of the light , for evening was not far away, but the fine view we had from the top of the ridge made me think for some reason of alpine scenes - say looking across Holmes' Plain towards Mt Arbuckle from the ridge above The Gorge . The place where we were to camp was pointed out as being on a grassy plain a mile or so ahead, and beyond it reddish hills rose in afternoon light. We followed a spur down to rejoin Brewery Creek on the bend just above where it entered its gorge. Sore shoulders from a day of pack carrying were not enough to detract from the fact that this last stretch of Brewery Creek was probably one of the prettiest , with sandy beaches , pools of water and large gum trees inhabited by noisy flocks of birds . At the far end of the straight there was a bore with a windmill and a tank . The windmill was pumping strongly and water was overflowing from the tank and from a drinking trough , and the place was surrounded with brilliant green grass. The water had a strange , bitter, mineralised, alkaline taste. We passed a small stockman's hut surrounded by a fence , and came to the campsite a little further on, among a scattering of shrubs in a stony watercourse .

The newcomer and I faced each other across the fire next morning at breakfast in total consternation. It was quite clear that we knew each other, and equally clear that neither of us could recall who the other was . Nature has indulged in socially embarrassing whimsy in endowing a small, highly specialised area in the human brain with almost incredible powers of facial recognition and then failing to finish the job by providing the links which would enable an equally facile recall of names and other relevant circum­stances . Several minutes of confusion followed while each of us mentally substituted a range of contexts different from the present one, until at last we came up with it . I had known Peter as a programmer over in the computer centre , and had no idea that he had anything to do with either bushwalking or Broken Hill. He, on the other hand , thought of Broken Hill as his home town , knew me as a chemist who was always getting into a tangle with badly-written programs , and had no idea that I had anything to do with bushwalking. It was seven years since he had moved on to another computer centre, so we excused ourselves on the basis that it had been a long time. He, his brother Terry, their combined tribe of seven-to-eleven year old children and their sister's daughter (making three sets of cousins when you sorted it all out) were among the family groups joining the walk today. Each day now , in fact , the size of the party was growing, and there were groups strung

44

out over miles of the hills, following only approximately the same route and coming into camp at all hours .

It was a heavily overcast morning, and there seemed to be a distinct chance of rain before the day was over. Before I left the fire to finish packing up I heard how Terry had been responsible for putting up a number of rock climbs at Mootwingee. Few people would think of Broken Hill in a rock climbing context , but it seems the grades go as high as 16. I must visit Mootwingee one day , though it will most certainly not be to do any rock climbing, thank you very much! This bushwalker likes both feet firmly on the ground . The desperately fit young walkers from Sydney had , for some unknown reason , decided to slow down a bit today and look at the scenery , so that as we followed a side creek away from Brewery Creek , passing through a broken earth dam wall and crossing a wide sandy plain, we found ourselves in the leading group. A blustery wind from the north west buffeted us and a few fat drops of rain soon saw all of us into our parkas. Three kilometres out from camp the creek was crossed by a road , and the road in tum took us westwards across the sandy plain to a series of ridges separated by deep valleys. Now , for the first time, we could see the desert country out to the west of the Barrier.

To the dismay of a herd of at least fifty black and white feral goats which bounded indignantly up the hillside and were soon lost to sight , we had to drop down very steeply to cross one of these gullies , and a steep climb on the other side brought us up onto a high ridge from which we had an unimpeded

Campsite at Torrowangee Graham Wills-Johnson

45

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46

view across the plains to the west , and back into the hills and ridges of the Barrier to the east. We followed it to the south for a while before getting out onto a descending series of spurs. By mid afternoon we were out of the range altogether, visiting the ruined stone building which had been the offices of the Para Creek mine . From there it was a short walk to cross several deep but dry watercourses to get to the campsite on Big Aller Creek . This water­course , too, was dry - the water doesn't get very far away from the range before sinking into the sand anywhere along here - but it was marked by a line of fine big river red gums . It was an early camp for us , around half past three.

During the day the cloud cover had broken up, but the wind remained in the north west and the air was warm and humid. It seemed that the threat of wet weather was not yet past , despite the fact that only a few drops of rain had fallen in the morning. Sure enough , towards evening the sky blackened in the west and the wind freshened. I retired to my tent and by candle light accompanied Eric Newby and his redoubtable nurse as he roamed the wilds of darkest Hammersmith SW 13 in his perambulator. A late tour around the campfires turned up , at one of them, a discussion of some of the history of the exploration of the Barrier which has since surfaced in the 1984 issue of Another Publication not entirely dissimilar to 'Walk'. At another fire there was the offer of a generous dash of port while the day's performances of various very young walkers were discussed. I asked how much trepidation was being generated by contemplating Mt Robe on the morrow , but. wisely perhaps, another route was being planned for most of them. At a third fire Mt Robe was also in prospect, though here with ' toey' anticipation. Although only a three hundred metre climb, this was much the biggest climb of the entire walk and clearly something to get your teeth into .

In the very early hours of the morning there was a thunderstorm, but again only a few drops of rain fell, and by daylight the sky was cloudless, the wind was in the south, and the air was cold. Through the smoke of breakfast campfires many pairs of eyes could be seen scanning the flanks of Mt Robe, plotting the best (fastest!) line of attack , and speculating where the summit lay in relation to the shoulder we could see . But this morning the leader was ready to leave before anyone else . And he didn't strike out in a bee-line for the spurs of the mountain . Instead, we followed the line of red gums along the watercourse to the base of the range. As we entered the gorge of Big Aller Creek it became evident that he had some alternative quite different from the routes that we had been speculating on in mind .

The gorge of Big Aller Creek is different from the others. It is fairly narrow, but does not grade steeply. As a result , where most of the gorges are rocky and fairly barren in appearance, in this one the topsoil has not been carried away, but is held in place by large trees and undergrowth. There was water trickling down the creek from one pool to another and flowers along the way . Much of the time the track followed the route of an old coaching road, evidence of which could still be seen. The horses of the nineteenth century must have been heroic beasts indeed, judging by the roughness and steepness of these old roadworks in many places . With the 'toey' brigade hard on the leader' s heels the pace of the front detachment was very brisk, and as we wound our way up the gorge the walls on either side became lower . Eventually we burst out into a green valley set in a bowl of surround-

47

ing ridges. Here there were some ruins of the rather unlovely modem kind , heaps of rusting ga!vanised iron and other rubbish making an unfavourable contrast with the spartan dignity of the ruins of stone buildings which we had seen in other parts of the Barrier.

Peter pointed out the adit of a mine high up on the side of Mt Robe at the head of the valley and said we could go on up there if we liked while he waited for the main body of his party , which had rather got left behind in the rush. A hot and breathless quarter hour saw me up to the mine, some distance behind the athletic group, who , by now , were well into the business of exploring the upper reaches of the mine , torches in hand. I settled down on my pack at the entrance to the mine to enjoy the view down the valley with the ruins in it , with the gorge on the further side , and beyond that the open plains where we had camped the night before . My enjoyment was in no way lessened by the warm sunshine, nor by the prospect that we were going to be there for quite a while before the party had re-grouped. People could still be seen coming up from the gorge into the valley at the far end , and the 'second wave ' was only now beginning to pant up the steep hillside below where we sat. Around the mine there were fresh claim notices , although there was no evidence that it was actually being worked at the time.

The .climb up to the mine had broken the back of the three hundred metres to the summit. By mid-morning we were sitting on the summit cairn. Somebody pointed out the Byjerkerno Range , far away on the northern horizon . Had we really walked all the way from there? It seemed an incredibly long way away . Looking in the opposite direction we could see Mt Umberumberka. That was the last mountain of the walk , though unfor­tunately some of us would not be crossing it. The ridges between were a deep rust-red in colour, shading to purple at a greater distance. At any other time the colour would be completely different, but these southern parts of the range were thickly clothed with wild hops in flower. Suddenly all was action once more as we plunged down the southern slopes of Mt Robe , passed through a small valley and negotiated onto a rocky ridge . This, with splendid views on either side, formed a narrow ramp which took us at a high elevation for several miles to the south before a steep drop down to the place for lunch on the sandy bed of Eldee Creek. At one place along the rocky ridge we stopped and saw a herd of feral goats no more than fifty metres ahead and at a slightly lower elevation than ourselves . With the wind in the south their smell was carried towards us (leaving no doubt whatever that they were goats!) while they were completely unaware of human presence .

Lunch was a pleasant hour and a half lying in a warm sun, and it was at the urgings of the toey brigade rather than the leader that we eventually got going again . Just over the first rise I was amazed to find they had stopped. They were down on the ground looking at something . Coming to where they were, I found them looking at a fine display of Sturt's Desert Pea in flower. This was an opportunity too good to miss , and we all spent ten minutes or so down on our knees with our cameras . It was the only patch of desert peas anyone saw on the whole walk .

After crossing a tributary of Eldee Creek there was a long steady climb up a series of ridges until , at the highest point , the end of the walk , at least as far as those of us who could not do Sunday's section were concerned, could be seen far in the distance below- the ruins of Mundi Mundi homestead , with

48

Mt Umberumberka rising beyond . Most of the group I was with chose to drop straight down from this high point to follow a tributary creek of Mundi Mundi . Their view would have been closed in on the west by a high ridge, as well as with a higher ridge to the east , with Mt Umberumberka up ahead. Sore though my feet were , it seemed to me that a much more interesting route would be to follow the descending ridges around in a big half circle to the west and approach the ruins from the right. Nobody else was interested , so I struck off on my own .

My reward was , to my mind, the best part of the entire walk. Below me on the left I could see the rest of my group trailing along the valley beside the creek. On the right I was looking down into another valley which was separated by a lower spur from the endless plains stretching out into the blue haze and distance. In one direction only was the total flatness of the horizon broken, with some small distant blue humps of higher ground around Olary in South Australia . Gradually my ridge line carried me lower, and as it did so the red colour of the flowering wild hops grew richer, botti as the plants grew more thickly and as the slanting light of the late afternoon sun grew more mellow . The white chimneys of the ruins in their surroundings of green trees and green grass by degrees came closer. All too soon I was looking down at them from the top of the last few metres of a descent that suddenly became steeper as it came to an end. It had been a wonderful day's walking, with endless winter sunshine and the country in the finest garb it possesses .

My walk ends there . It was with sorrow that we watched a larger party than ever leave camp the next morning . Many people were joining the walk only for the final day . One or two of them didn't look as fit as might have been expected, and one hoped that the contingency of their non-appearance at the far end had been planned for as efficiently as everything else associ­ated with the walk had been . The day's walk would have been shorter than any of the other stages , probably with just these circumstances in mind, so I have no doubt it turned out right in the long run . That barbecue at Silverton must have been a memorable occasion, too . But for us, alas , it was the long road, and an eight hour drive back to Melbourne.

Botanisers preoccupied in the Barrier Range

49

Graham Wills-Johnson

TALL TIMBER TALES

Athol Schafer

A few years ago Sam and I made the 3,500 kilometre journey across to Western Australia to go walking in their tall timber country in the South West. It was during the wildflower season that lasts from September. through October and into November, and we were not disappointed at what we saw. The undergrowth can be very dense and there are great, blackened stumps often entwined with three or four differently coloured creepers -red , white and blue. The clematis with its propellor shaped petals seemed everywhere , and orchids grew in rows along the sides of open gravelly roads. The wattle blazed in the sunshine. It became noticeable after about a week that the bush was slowly changing its hues as varidus species of plants reached peak flowering time and then faded .

However it was not only the blossoms of the bush that claimed our attention in this area but also the stories about the big trees themselves .

The trip had started pretty rainy but after a few soggy days we could be found enjoying the shafts of warm sunshine that broke through gaps in the high canopy of karri forest. This was regrowth karri through which we tramped via the Rainbow Trail , so named after the trout , and the one-time route of a timber tram that was much instrumental in the removal of the original timber. It was alcng here that steam-snorting Puffing Billies on one-metre gauge tracks brought the great logs from the virgin forest down to the timber mills . Now it serves as a one-way scenic drive and is part of a walk circuit, descending to the Lefroy Brook valley to pass the Pemberton camping ground to which on that day we were headed .

Rounding a bend in the road we noticed a parked campervan . A grey­haired couple hailed us. ' Join us for morning tea!' They were out from the U.K., members of a natural history society, spending their long service leave on tour . and just a few days out on the road. We were the first bushwalkers encountered and they were curious to examine our gear, being something of walkers themselves . With them was another man they had also just met. An old bushman he was , by the name of Len, full of yarns, and with very definite opinions on country matters . He reckoned he'd been every­where in the State . Up in the nor' west cattle country, the goldfields, and the jarrah forest. He was talking about cyclones, fossicking in old embankments and tailing grounds, and eventually he got on to timber topics .

'When you fellows get into Pemberton ,' he said, ' have a look at the remaining cottages put up by the company for the timber workers . You know they could easily be 200, 300 or maybe even 400 years or more old .'

' Hey , steady on, now!' gasped Sam, who had read up the history of the area , :this place hasn ~ t been settled not much more than 100 years. How could they be any older?'

' Well ,' said Len, 'they used to log big trees in them days. The timber they got then to build them houses would almost certainly have been that age . '

I saw his point and thought of the older timber houses one sees in cities and towns throughout the land. How many weatherboards and beams were sawn out of the forest giants that today are rarely seen and then mainly in reserves

50

such as national parks? If it survives the designs of the woodchopper a karri tree takes about I 00 years to grow to a height of 60 metres and be ready for cutting. We had walked through the One Hundred Year Old Forest where you can see trees of that vintage .

11<

~

~~~

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Fire lookout tree Athol Schafer

51

TALL TIMBER TALES 10

KILOMETRES

B reflkiiWIIIY M ap&

52

Perhaps the place would be better described as the One-point-one Century Old Forest for it was after a bushfire in 1875 that seeds germinated and rootstock sprouted to grow into the tall karri and marri trees of today . And all this was on a hilltop that earlier had been cleared and sown for wheat , and after a couple of seasons abandoned. Approaching t.his forest we found that the big gumnuts rolling about on the ground made underfoot like walking on ball-bearings .

The English couple mentioned the peculiarity of many of the local place-names ending in 'up' . It is an Aboriginal term meaning place or camp. Sam suggested a few new names such as Knockedup, Muckedup etc. Old Len added a few uncouth ones of liis invention to be applied suitably to those vast areas of forest under quarantine on account of jarrah dieback. We had already gone by some of those quarantine zones, but although pedestrians were allowed , vehicles barred, we didn't enter for they seemed forbidding places.

After finishing our third slice of fruit cake and cup of tea we said goodbye to our-hosts, continued on to the camping ground then went out on a side trip to look at one of the fire lookout trees for which the South West is famous .

A suitable lookout was constructed by the forester first climbing a tall, sturdy specimen to see what the view was like. Climbing equipment com­prised of spurred boots and a safety belt, but it was no easy task, perhaps coping with a six metre girthed trunk and negotiating branches like mighty trees in themselves. thick and massive, and often taking many hours to complete. After selecting a tree, the forester would have to drill holes to take wooden pegs for a spiralling ladderway which in tum would be enclosed in a safety mesh of wire . Unwanted branches would be axed off and an observa­tion cabin balanced on a top spread of branches up to 60 metres high above the ground.

The Gloucester Tree east of Pemberton, is of that height . It was named after the duke who was on tour of the area at the time of its construction. The duke thought he'd try his hand with !}le auger and after a few turns remarked it was easy going- until told by the forester, in no uncertain terms, that he hadn't even got through the bark!

Although thousands of tourists have quite safely climbed some of these trees, Sam and I were too chicken to go up. Shaming us a small boy suddenly went up it almost disappearing from view like Jack up the beanstalk, leaving below two anxious parents calling vainly: 'Too high, Tommy!' 'Tommy, come down, come down! '

Another use the big timber has been put to is building bridges, and sometimes mono log bridges. We had started our walk at a place that derived its name from one of the latter types of construction. One Tree Bridge is the place, about 17 kilometres west ofManjimup, which town is on the 50 inch annual rainfall isohyet. This is the northern boundary of the area where karri and marri become the dominant timber. Jarrah is dominant in the area roughly delineated by the 25 inch isohyet.

Back in 1904 graphite miners cut down a huge karri growing on the east bank of the Donnelly River, so as to topple it 23 metres across to the far bank. Along the trunk they built a decking of tough jarrah planks wide enough to allow bullock teams to pull the ore wagons across. Many years later it took the weight of a small bulldozer that was driven across to and fro

53

during construction of a replacement bridge. For 60 years of drought and flood the bridge served the district until one wintry night of storm and high water the bank on which the butt rested gave way so that log and all sank into the stream. Later it was salvaged and set up in the middle of the nearby picnic ground .

Well, after viewing this sturdy relic, Sam and I followed the river southwards to what was supposed to be a safe ford. The waters of the river swollen with the recent spring rains swirled and foamed around the broken piles of a timber tram bridge that marked the spot .

Sam said: 'Certain drowning . We don't cross . Wish they had a good bridge here.'

Plans were modified and we· began to climb away from the river valley . Not long up the track a truck came by loaded with forestry gear. The foreman in charge of the work party said: 'We're on our way to the old tram bridge site. We're going to fell a tree across the river for a footbridge.'

It was to be part of the long distance Bibbulmum walking track then under construction. If we had waited until the job was completed we could have crossed that evening .

Single log bridges can still be seen in other parts of the area. Later, walking south of Pemberton, we noticed one or two had become dislodged by the high water in Lefroy Brook. Probably this may have had something to do with a party of tourists we met who were somewhat bushed. However we soon got them back to the picnic ground from which they had strayed. But then they had forgotten which track led back to the carpark . Again we obliged, the scope of the whole operation being within 100 metres linear distance!

The undergrowth , especially that resulting from 'cool' burning, can be impenetrable, sometimes obliterating forestry tracks, which if recut may not follow the original route. This may give rise to interesting map-reading and navigational problems. But it was a cool bum itself that gave us quite a start. We had left the Lefroy Brook and were following the Warren River west­wards. That afternoon the sun became progressively redder and there was a hint of the scent of burning gumleaves. 'Bushfire,' I said to Sam . 'Let's get closer to the river.'

Crossing the road on the way down we met a local . 'Oh,' he said. 'They've been burning higher up . Miles away . Been

watching the smoke drift down to this valley all day . ' ' Next year,' said Sam, 'there'll be more of your interesting map-reading

pr.oblems.'

54

DADDY WHY ARE THE TREES DYING?

]opie Bodegraven

Take a walk in parts of the Brisbane Ranges, near Bacchus Marsh. Have a look at the red gum forests of Western Victoria . Visit the irrigation areas of the Murray , Goulburn and Eastern Gippsland. What will you see? Trees are dying . Scattered occurrences can be found in numerous other localid~s throughout Victoria. They are even dying in parts of Melbourne . Interstate there are particularly bad examples in the New England Tablelands of N. S. W . and the jarrah forests of W. A.

The general symptom is that ends of the branches die, followed by whole branches and finally whole trees. This occurs generally over a number of years and is known by the common name of dieback. Dieback is not a specific disease. It is a general term only, used to describe the symptoms above mentioned. It has many causes . Often a combination of several factors can affect the tree. To gain a better understanding of what is happening to the tree and why, let's look at how a tree is constructed and how it functions.

Tree Anatomy and Functioning

A tree breathes, feeds and drinks as does any living thing. The way it does this is of course radically different from the animals:

How a Tree Feeds

Leaves - tum water and carbon dioxide into sugars and oxygen using sunlight and chlorophyll (photosynthesis).

Roots - collect water and nutrients .

Inner Bark or Phloem - downward sapflow.

Cambium Layer - site of all radial growth.

Sapwood or living Xylem - upward sapflpw.

Heartwood - clogged up and non functioning sapwood adds structural strength.

Cross section of Trunk or Branch

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These diagrams show how a tree is structured and how it feeds. Some explanations may be helpful and of general interest.

The sugars are converted in every living tree cell, using oxygen from the air, to produce C02, water and energy to power the cells' metabolism . This process is called respiration, just as it is in humans . Excess sugars are stored as starch in the leaves, branches, trunk and roots.

The cambium is a very thin layer of cells which is constantly dividing, adding new cells to both the inner bark and the sapwood. During rapid Spring growth, larger, lighter coloured cells are added to the sapwood. [n Winter, darker, smaller cells are added. This produces the annual growth rings and the width of the rings indicates years of good or poor growth.

The inner bark expands slightly as it gets pushed outwards by new growth until the outermost parts eventually dry, crack and die , to become the outer bark. In smooth-barked trees, the outer bark constantly flakes off and consequently stays very thin . Rough-barked trees keep all the dead bark as a thick protective layer, as in stringybarks and ironbarks . This layer enables them to survive fires that would kill a smooth-barked tree .

If you observe a thin cross section of a branch or trunk you will notice that the inner bark separates very readily from the sapwood along the cambium, which will have a soapy , smooth feel when fresh. With age, the sapwood conducting vessels become progressively blocked with various tree prod­ucts , until it becomes darker, non-functional heartwood, which provides only structural support .

Tree growth is of three types: I . Terminal- at the growing tips of branches . The branches lengthen in

this way. 2. Fruiting and Leaf - Buds , fruit and leaves grow to biologically

predetermined shapes and sizes . 3 . Cambial - as described above . This increases the diameter of the

branch and trunk . It is worth noting that once a wood cell is in place, it is fixed in that position and cannot move up or down. This is why surveyors often use nails in tree trunks as reference levels .

Tree Reaction to Injury

Animal tissue can heal. New skin soon grows to replace damaged skin and the spot eventually is healed. Broken bones knit together or heal. A tree cannot do this, it cannot heal. Once a part of a tree is injured or decayed, it stays that way. A damaged cell can never be repaired . The tree copes by isolating the damaged part with a chemical barrier to resist spread of the damage, and then growing new healthy tissue around it. Examples of this are hollow tree trunks with a flourishing exterior and crown, and cavities with healthy tissue slowly growing in from the outside edges .

A healthy vigorous tree will be in equilibrium with its surroundings . It will be used to getting a certain amount of oxygen, water and nutrients to its roots, and a certain amount of sun, wind and rain on its leaf canopy. It will be in equilibrium with its agents of destruction, i.e . insects, decay fungi, etc . A tree in this condition will live to a ripe old age as a fine specimen . Enter the villains. A villain is anything which upsets the tree's equilibrium, and they are many. Let's look at a few:

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Looking for Maps and Publications

on your favourite Forests? Why not visit our shop at

Forestry House, 601 Bourke Street, Melbourne

D FORESTS COMMISSION VICTORIA

57

Mechanical Injury

This can be caused by storms, fires , lightning , little boys pulling branches off, gardeners bruising trunks with lawn mowers , people lopping branches off, and so on.

The effect is to allow decay fungi to move in, attacking the wood , reducing the tree's capacity to transport sap and weakening the tree struc­turally. Bad cases can cause a tree to collapse or a branch to suffer partial ringbarking. However, many injured trees will continue to thrive and me­chanical injury is not normally a major cause of dieback , although it can be a contributing factor.

Fire

Some trees such as mountain ash , pines and most deciduous trees can be killed outright by a severe wildfire. The Ash Wednesday fires illustrate this. Many others may have small branches killed but have the trunk and main branches protected by thick bark . Lower intensity fires can damage the bark of smooth-barked trees, providing entry points for decay fungi and wood boring insects . Defoliation by fire means the tree cannot manufacture food and must rely on its internal food stores (starch), thereby weakening it, until new leaf growth allows it to begin manufacture again . Trenches and Excavations

Excavations of any sort , sewer trenches, deep foundations, etc . drain away water, lowering the ground water level. meaning the tree roots have less water available. This is common in Melbourne and particularly so in re­cently sewered areas in Melbourne 's outer eastern suburbs . Drought

Once again , ground water levels are lowered and the trees suffer . Although many of our native trees are drought resistant , an abnormal drought like 1982 will still cause extensive dieback , ·especially in conjunction with other adverse factors. Cinnamon Fungus (Phytophthera sp)

This is an important fungus that attacks and kill s roots, leaving the tree unable to collect sufficient water and nutrients . It is transported via soil on machinery , vehicles and boots, so beware of spreading it in infected areas . It is very bad in the jarrah forests of W.A., and in many areas of Victoria , including the Brisbane Ranges and parts of the Dandenongs and Mel­bourne 's eastern suburbs . Some species are susceptible such as messmate , alpine ash and mountain ash, whereas others such as red gum, manna gum and yellow box are not. There are other lesser root 'rot fungi such as honey fungus (Asmellaria sp) which can have a severe local e(fect.

C fearing of Land

This can really throw the system out of kilter by causing salting and raised ground water levels , increased insect problems and unnatural weather ex­posure. Clearing of higher slopes means less water is transpired by trees and more rainwater finds its way into the ground water. The level of ground water lower down the slope rises . This in itself is bad as waterlogged roots · starve for oxygen. But if the ground water is salty , as it often is, the tree has real problems . Another aspect of clearing is that it can upset the balance

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between the number of trees and the number of inspect pests. The classic example is the New England area of N.S .W. Christmas beetles br.eed in cleared earth . More clearing means more beetles but fewer trees to feed on , hence defoliation of the remaining trees and ultimate death . Possums can have a similar effect if their numbers get out of balance . The third effect of c learing is to leave the remaining trees more exposed to windscald , sunscald and storm damage . Pasture Improvement

Introduction of exotic grasses spurred on by fertilizers is bad news for trees . The new grasses compete far more strongly for surface water than native grasses do and the fertilizers are richer than the trees can happily live with. The denser grass cover also leads to faster run off and less water soaking in . Overwatering and Irrigation

Tree roots need oxygen for cell respiration . If they are waterlogged, they will die from lack of oxygen. This is particularly serious in irrigation areas but also in Melbourne, where water supply to roots is artificially increased by paved areas directing water to them, leaks in drains and swimming pools, septic systems and overwatering of gardens. Compaction of Filling over Roots

This can cause insufficient oxygen to reach the roots as well as less water. It can be due to paving, the compactive effect of vehicles, pedestrians, cattle, etc. or filling over roots in garden landscaping or building construction . Direct root damage due to weight of machines is also possible. Effect of Stock

As well as the compaction caused by stock , there are other bad effects . They can prevent regeneration of trees by grazing or trampling young trees ,

Dead and dying trees , Mt Barnard Jopie Bodegraven

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leading to an ageing tree population . They also can damage bark by eating it or rubbing on it. Excavation Over Roots

This can cause direct root damage as well as an excess of oxygen and possible drying out of the roots .

Chemicals

Chemicals in the form of herbicides and insecticides can upset insect balances, causing insect problems as well as the chemicals affecting the trees directly or via contaminated water. Mistletoe

Mistletoe is a parasitic flowering plant which draws nutrients and moisture from the host tree , causing death of branches and sometimes of the whole tree. Trees alone, in small groups or in open forests tend to be more severely affected than trees in denser forests . The incidence has, according to author­ities, increased significantly over the last I 00 years. Plagues

These can be of locusts, christmas beetles or other insect pests and even possums . It is often the result of unusual weather patterns and results in defoliation which , if it is repeated often enough , will kill the tree . Combined Effect

Occasionally there is a single cause of dieback . More often however it is the result of a combination of factors, all aiding and abetting one another. A tree may be damaged by fire and weakened by drought , leaving it open to attack by leaf eating insects, followed up by wood boring insects . Another tree near a sewer line , suffering from a lowered water table level, will be attacked by insects , which it would have resisted if it had not been water stressed. The most serious example of dieback in Australia occurs in New England, N .S .W. where since the 1950s we have had a large increase in pasture improvement, higher stock numbers and a succession of severe droughts, followed by excessively wet periods. Large areas of pastoral New England have ghastly clumps of tree skeletons, where once majestic eucalypts stood. In the nonpastoral forested areas of New England the trees remain healthy .

Conclusion

With this long list you are probably wondering why we have any trees left at all in Victoria . The reply is that if nothing is done , large tracts of our state will finish up like New England. Programmes are under way to combat the risk and in some areas tree populations are relatively safe. In other areas, however, the problems are growing . In some cases, the causes of die back are not properly understood and more research is needed. Drastic action is called for . The Forestry Commission is aware ofthe problems and is making efforts to solve them, as are the Department of Agriculture and various other Government and non-Government bodies. It will be a long battle however to safeguard one of our most precious resources- our trees .

References: Australian Trees: a guide to their care and cure. P. W. Hadlington and J. A. Johnston. 1979. Tree Decline in Rural Victoria. Forestry Commission of Victoria. 1980.

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PEDAL POWER

Art Terry

Bicycle touring , like bush walking, is an energetic, healthy form of recrea­tion and a splendid and fascinating mode of transport for getting over and seeing a lot of country . Riding , like walking, gives the rider ample time to observe and take in the beauty and points of interest of the places he/she is traversing.

Bicycle touring has many enjoyable features but it also has some un­pleasant ones . One of these is busy traffic roads, so plan your route to avoid high density traffic roads as much as possible . Road surfaces have to be accepted as you find them if one is desirous of going to certain areas. Rain and head winds make riding unpleasant and , sometimes, difficult. However, the wind can be taken care of to a large degree by dropping a cog or two. A strong wind on a day 's ride can be used to advantage by starting the ride with the wind behind .

An extended touring trip can be planned as a camping holiday or overnight stops can be taken at hotels or motels. England has a claim of its own for the tour cyclist as Alwyn and I discovered to our immense delight on a visit to Great Britain in the summer of '75. London was too much of a whirlwind of people and traffic for my liking , so, after purchasing our excellent Raleigh I 0 speed tourers and maps, we took off by train to Stratford-On-Avon.

After spending a couple of days here soaking up the histocy of the place , rowing a boat on the Avon and enjoying a Shakespearian play (Hamlet), we started our bicycle tour. Stratford-On-Avon is a busy place but once clear of the city the beauty of the English countryside unfolded itself to us and it was indeed a sheer delight to be seeing these new places from a bicycle seat. The weather was hot, the hottest and driest for many years , so it suited us fine-and we couldn't ask for more as we rode through quaint little villages with their neatly thatched roofed cottages and gardens ablaze with beautiful roses and other flowers.

We stayed at bed-and-breakfast guest houses or hotels, some of which had been built centuries ago. They were all very clean , meals excellent, and all with first class bathrooms. Staying overnight at these guest houses and hotels certainly added to our pleasure . We carried full camping kit but had to use it only once. One Saturday afternoon found us pedalling our way through a lovely Cotswold country town and, much to our delight, a cricket match was in progress on the village green. After spending an hour or two here we pedalled on until we came to an Inn where, being hot and thirsty, Alwyn drank a pint of lemon squash and I downed a quart of delicious apple cider which was apparently not 'Scrumpy' as it had no imbibing effects on me whatsoever. Several days later about fifteen miles from Oxford we called into another Inn and again sampled as much lemon squash and apple cider as on the previous occasion . It must have been the strong stuff this time , as I had a difficult time of it keeping a straight course and reading the map.

We stayed the night at Oxford and next morning travelled by train to Penrith , from where we cycled and walked our way through the beautiful Lakes District for the next two weeks. From Penrith our route took us to

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Glenridding on Ulswater. We were on our way by 6 a.m. next morning to climb Kirkstone Pass, then a wonderful downhill run to the pretty little town of Troutbeck , where we enjoyed our breakfast hamper provided by the hotel proprietor. From Troutbeck we cycled on to Windermere , crossed Lake Windermere by ferry to Hawkshead, Coniston , Langdales , Grasmere , Thirlmere, Keswick , Derwent Water, Borrowdale and Buttermere , staying at some of these places for a day or two so that we could enjoy walking in the Fells, The Commons and by the lakes.

We cycled from Buttermere to Carlisle , where we travelled by train to within 40 miles of London and cycled from here through delightful country­side and villages to Southampton . Some mornings found us out on the road by 6 a .m. as it was just grancfto be out at that time of the day , pedalling our way along narrow country lanes , taking in scenery and breathing the fresh air. My cycling tour ended at Southampton , but for Alwyn , who was by now as fit as a Windermere trout, it was just the beginning for she cycled around England on her own for the next three months , clocking up several thousand happy miles and, would you believe , the only cycle trouble Alwyn had was one puncture.

You don ' t have to go overseas to enjoy cycle touring as there is plenty on offer in Victoria , N.S.W., Queensland and Tassie . Maybe the other States have a lot to offer as well but I cannot comment on them as I haven ' t ridden there . Several good books on Victorian cycle tours are on sale and cover rides from one day to extended tours. It can be fun working out your own cycle tour. Most of our rides , whether only for a day or an extended tour, start with a train journey into the country where it is possible to select low-density traffic roads with good surfaces .

A five day tour which Alwyn led in the north-east of Victoria started at Wangaratta to Beechworth- Yackandandah- Tallangatta- Mt Beauty - Tawonga- Bright and back to Wangaratta. We stayed at motels on this trip , which was taken in mid-Autumn.

A good tour of the goldfields area of Victoria is to start from Bendigo to Woodstock - Newbridge on the Loddon River- Rheola- Melville Caves- Dunolly- Maryborough- Daylesford to Woodend.

If you like the mountains and a challenge , start at Bairnsdale- Bruthen - Swifts Creek - Omeo - Anglers Rest - then a climb to the Bogong High Plains to Falls Creek - an exciting downhill ride of 23 miles to Mt Beauty - along the eastern side of the Kiewa River to Gundowring -Yackandandah- Beechworth- Wangaratta .

Tasmania has a lot to offer the tour cyclist but unfortunately it is not always possible to avoid busy traffic. Alwyn worked out a tour for the Apple Isle, so Alwyn, Jim, Harold and I set sail on the Empress of Tasmania in early March for our ride, starting at Devonport . Our route took us to Deloraine, to Launceston, then via the Midlands Highway, going through such towns as Perth, Epping Forest, Campbell Town, Oatlands, Melton, Mowbray, New Norfolk to Hobart . This route is rich in history and I think is as near as you can experience the Old World here in Australia . It was a most interesting and enjoyable ride, staying at motels or hotels. Alwyn and Harold returned to Melbourne after spending two days in and around Hobart.

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Jim and I continued our ride along the East Coast via Oxford- Bicheno­Elephants Pass - St Marys - St Helens - Scottsdale - Launceston -Devonport. This is a very scenic trip, taking in mountain ranges en route .

To enjoy bicycle touring a person should be fit, be equipped with a good strong bicycle of the correct frame size and be fitted with all the necessary gear to ensure safe and enjoyable riding . Seek advice from an experienced cycle tourist before purchasing a bicycle . It pays to learn about bicycle maintenance , how to repair a puncture, change a tube , and to do minor adjustments .

The Melbourne Bushwalkers have three programmed day bicycle rides during the year. Perhaps you would like to come- you would be welcome .

View from the Aqueduct near Langfords Gap, Falls Creek Lesley Forbes

Interested in Back Issues of Walk?

Back sets of Walk for the years 1974-1984 are available for $12 including postage and packaging. Remittance should be sent to Melbourne Bush­walkers, PO Box 1751Q, GPO Melbourne, Victoria 3001.

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BOOK REVIEWS

Huts of the High Country by Klaus Hueneke . Australian National Uni­versity Press, 1983.251 pages. R.R.P. $14.50

One aspect of conservation that has received some attention over the last couple of years is that of hut conservation .

The arguments for and against huts are as follows: The pro-hutters say that existing huts are useful for sheltering people who

might be caught out in bad weather or who don't carry a tent. The anti­hutters say that huts are not part of the natural environment, cause both visual and waste pollution, and entice people to travel ill-equipped, depend­ing on huts for shelter. This group argues that the huts should be removed .

Both sides of the argument have some validity . Huts do encourage people to travel ill-equipped and so run the risk of being trapped in bad weather. However, on dark and stormy nights, as the rain or snow comes down , there is no greater security and enjoyment than settling down in front of a good log fire, safe, dry and warm in a hut.

Klaus Hueneke's book Huts of the High Country clearly comes out in favour of the preservation of existing huts. Primarily his book concentrates on the Kosciusko National Park where there has been a long tradition of huts, which have been mainly built by the early settlers in order to bring their cattle up to the alpine pastures to graze in the summer months.

It is this historical link that Hueneke draws attention to in his book. As Australia has such a short history of European settlement, the huts are a tangible link to the past. His research is impeccable. Each chapter of the book commences with a general description of one region of the Kosciusko area. Then tales of the early exploration , visits and history of the many families of the area are followed by detailed descriptions of the huts themselves.

Excellent use is made of the numerous photographs. Some of the older photographs are particularly interesting and allow the present day visitor to compare the huts with what they were like in the early years.

Huts of the High Country has been written to ensure that our national heritage is preserved at least on paper, as it seems that the National Park Service ofN.S.W. is determined to see many of these huts disappear. This fact makes this book important reading and its publication is welcomed .

Apart from the important conservation aspect of the book , Huts of the High Country is highly recommended to all who wish to know a lot more about the alpine areas in which they walk.

Phil Taylor

South West Tasmania , by John Chapman. Second Edition 1983. Published by John Chapman. 160 pages . R.R.P. $7 .95

South West Tasmania came into public prominence following the Lake Pedder issue when the South West National Park was created in 1978 . More

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recently it came again into public prominence during the debate which raged over the future of the Franklin and Gordon Rivers .

It is an area of great beauty, remote , wild and storm swept. It is considered to be one of the few remaining areas of wilderness in Australia and the world .

This book by John Chapman is an invaluable guide to those who wish to explore this beautiful wilderness. The opening chapters provide information on the area, the environment, planning and preparation, suggested walking routes, a map index and legend.

The rest of the book gives detailed walk descriptions of several possible walks. The now well trodden track across the Western and Eastern Arthurs, South Coast, Huon and Arthur Plains, Port Davey, Precipitous Bluff, South West Cape, Mt Anne and the Frankland Range traverse . Each walk has been undertaken by Chapman, which results in track notes that are easy to read , yet comprehensive, and do not seem to miss any points of interest or special features that the walker needs to note in order not to become lost.

The maps provided with the track notes are excellent. Clear, precise and easy to follow, they should ensure that any person following the route will not become confused.

This reviewer was able to put the book to a practical test during a trip through South West Tasmania early in 1984. It was found that walking times are approximately correct, but do not make allowances for photostops or just lingering to enjoy the views. The track notes were found to be accurate regarding the Western and Eastern Arthurs Ranges segments .

The black and white photographs liberally sprinkled throughout the book are of a high standard as would be expected of Chapman's work .

This book is a handy size for convenient carrying in a pack, though it is rather heavy.

An essential book and guide for those contemplating a visit to South West Tasmania.

Phil Taylor

The Mountains of Paradise- the wilderness of South West Tasmania by Les Southwell . Published by the author, P.O. Box 29, Camberwell, Vic, 3124 (Post Free) . 211 pages. R.R.P. $45

When I received The Mountains of Paradise I steeled myself not to look at the photographs but to read the text first. The world seems to work at such a frantic pace that many books and magazines, especially those containing colour photographs, become mere coffee table decoration; thumbed through, never really read.

Les Southwell's book must be savoured, contemplated upon, thought­fully enjoyed . For the author is a veteran of the Lake Pedder days, who put aside the dejection of that time and doggedly pegged away for a better future, giving valued effort and the benefit of his experience to others. The emotions of all these years come through.

The text first deals with some early disputes such as the plan, in 1946, to transfer 1600 hectares of the Mt Field National Park to a private newsprint company. More than once we read of allegations (documented) of bribery and corruption .

65

The next chapter deals with the 'rise of the Hydro ', that state within a state. The reader must be amazed at the power enjoyed and employed by the so called hydrocrats .

The saga of Lake Pedder will probably be seen by historians and others as an important catalyst to the rate of some aspects of social change in Aus­tralia. For, during the Lake Pedder campaign , Government , semi Govern­ment and other large 'establishment' institutions came under more public scrutiny and received more criticism than ever before. Les Southwell puts the saga together with authority tinged with despair. If only . . .

Yes , if only . Did we really have to lose Pedder in order to learn how , eleven years later, to save the Franklin?

The fight for the Franklin is very recent history . We witnessed history being made , and now we can review it through this book without losing the threads. I can imagine that Mountains of Paradise will be used as a source book by generations of students who have to write essays associated with the history of this country .

I worry a little about the title of the book , 'Mountains of Paradise '. The smaller print on the cover offers further information but we are so used to mushy novels with similar titles that a prospective purchaser, on hearing the title before seeing the book , might well be put off. There are a fe':" minor errors in the text , and I did find the numbering in the bibliography and references confusing . I hope teachers won ' t mark students harshly if they say that a Mr Russel succeeded Sir Alan Knight as Chief Commissioner of the HEC (p.48)- Mr Russel Ashton? But this is a reviewer nitpicking .

And the photographs . The text takes the first seventy-five pages of the book and then there are over one hundred pages of colour photographs.

Over the last decade we have been able to enjoy the work of some very sensitive photographers of the natural environment. All the superlatives seem to have been exhausted . Photographs more than any other form of communication have brought to people the splendour and diversity of this world . Not all of us need first hand experience , vicarious pleasure is often enough .

Please take time to reflect on every one of Les Southwell 's beautiful photographs . Feelings put into the text are amplified in the visual. The photograhs cover a wider range of South West Tasmania than any other publication I am aware of. You have Lake Pedder as it was and the remaining wilderness as it still is. You have the expanse from Frenchmans Cap or the detail of nothofagus and snow. You have the seasons , dawn and dusk .

I will say no more about the photographs but will end this review by quoting the last paragraph of the book.

'Now that Lake Pedder lies under sixteen metres of dead water and that several of the gorges on the Middle and Lower Gordon are no longer accessible, I realise just how many other photos I missed taking . I greatly regret those lost opportunities . What is far worse, of course, is that others in future will be denied the privilege I have enjoyed.'

What we should add is that because of the work of people like Les Southwell there are many photographs of the South West Wilderness still to be taken .

Arthur Francis

66

lA SOUT

You can shout it from the mountain tops. Tasmania is unique. This Majestic Treasure Island with its

incomparable geography and teeming wildlife presents itself as the outstanding escape. * An alpine plateau of 3000 lakes * Pencil pine forests * Spectacularly glaciated mountains * Wild seas and windswept beaches * Deciduous beech groves and more •..

Tempted? For further temptations of what

to see and do in Tasmania ... contact the Tasmanian Government Tourist Bureau on 63 6351 or come along to 256 Collins Street, Melbourne.

67

LBV6274 TAS

MAPPING

Barry Short

This year has seen quite a fair tum out of new maps from the various mapping authorities and businesses .

Starting with the government authorities : National Mapping have nearly run themselves out of new work in

Victoria, producing at I: I 00,000 Cohuna, Mathoura , Tuppal (all up on the Murray River), and Melbourne . Ringwood was published but was with­drawn due to printing errors . When Ringwood is reprinted it will complete the I: I 00,000 coverage of Victoria . Natmap are already revising various sheets, in particular the I :250,000 Series, and are starting on some of the older I : IOO ,OOOs .

The Lands Department are still going hard on the I :25,000 Series . Their names and numbers are rather too obscure to mention here , but those printed this year can be summarized as follows: all of Wilsons Promontory and Waratah Bay , from Neerim area north to Lake Mountain area , down in the Otways from Lome to Cape Otway , Ballarat to Maryborough area , Nagambie area , Hamilton area, Orbost area . The five I :25,000 sheets of Cope , Fainter, Feathertop, Nelse and Trappers Creek (covering Hotham to Bogong) have been reissued as the 3rd edition. These sheets as near as possible have had all the bugs taken out of them by a concerted effort from the Lands Department, Forests Commission (both at Head Office and at local district level ), and with input from SCA, SEC and various other interested parties , including bushwalkers. If you buy these sheets, be sure to get the 3rd edition (marked in top right hand comer) as most shops will se ll you what they have , which will most likely be 2nd edition . Accept no substitute. The older editions are worthless and, in fact , some are downright dangerous with their misinformation .

The Forests Commission, Victoria have produced a fair crop of maps this year, although the only new map is The Otways Forest Map at I: 125 ,000. This is a coloured map and is in the same vein as the other couple of Forest Maps produced over the last few years. Like the others, this shows all the roads in the area but does not have contours . It covers the Otway peninsula south of a line Anglesea-Colac-Princetown . The Grampians map and the Barmah Forest maps were also revised and reprinted. In the I inch to I mile mapsheet series that the Forests Commission still prints considerable work has been done , and the following have been completely revised and re­printed: Benambra, Cobberas , Glen Wills , Jacobs River, Kosciusko, Omeo, Tawonga and Thowgla.

Those who follow the goings on in the above Departments will know that there is a big amalgamation of the Conservation, Forests and Lands Depart­ments taking place. They will also realise that I have used the old titles of these organisations as they have now separately ceased to exist. I have done this for the sake of clarity, as all these maps were produced before the Departments lost their separate identities. In the new structure, it seems that the Conservation and Forests draughting offices will combine as one, and

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the Lands draughting office will remain on its own as the State's mapping authority.

The Victorian Conservation Trust and the S.C.A. have produced the second sheet 'Pretty Valley' in their series called 'Bogong High Plains Vegetation Map and Guide to Alpine Flora'. It is similar to the first sheet and is a very good looking production.

Stewart Brooke's evergreen 'Watersheds of the King, Howqua and Jamieson Rivers' has been revised and reissued. He has also produced a map of the Brisbane Ranges National Park at I :50,000. It is black and white and is contoured . Unfortunately, this has made the production look cramped and confusing.

A full coloured map at I :50,000 called 'Falls Creek Mt Hotham' has been produced by David Rowlands . It covers the high plains between these two points.

Boiler Plain, near Mt Hotham Phil Taylor

Algona have produced a number of small maps. The 'Davenport-Whisky Flat-J .B. Plain Ski Trails' at 1:25,000 covers ski touring along the main ridge eastwards from Mt Hotham ski resort. Another map, starting at Mt Hotham , takes the nordic skier across the Bogong High Plains to Falls Creek. This is called 'Cross Country Hotham-Falls Creek' and is at I :50,000. Both these maps have a certain amount of colour and are con­toured. There is another map called ' Lake Mountain Ski Trails' drawn at I : 15,000. Also produced is the 'Wonderland Range' (in the Grampians) at a scale of I :40,000, a contoured map of Wilsons Promontory, the south half at I :50,000 and an all over map at I: 100,000. Lake Tali Karng-Snowy Range uses both these scales (I :50,000 and I: I 00,000) to show all the normal approach routes to Tali Karng , i.e. along the Wellington River, down from Macfarlanes Saddle, across from Mt Margaret, and up from Glenmaggie via Ben Crauchan, Mt Hump and Gable End. There is even a map dealing with the access from Tamboritha Saddle right through to Mt Howitt. All these maps are contoured.

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~Melbourne 74o w a, edey Road.

~ Map Centre c hadstooe. ~

• ALGONA MAPS AND -GUIDES

•VMTCIAPS eNATMAPS (All States) eC.M.A. (N.S.W. 1:25,000 eVICMAPS 1:25,000, 1:50,000 1:50,000, 1:100,000 e FORESTS COMMISSION e LANDS DEPARTMENTS (S.A.) eTASMAPS 1:100,000 1:50,000

~so e COMPASSES e GLOBES • ATLASES • OVERSEAS MAPS

• TRAVEL GUIDES & BOOKS Hours 9a.m. to6 .00p.m. Weekdays 9 a.m. tot .00 o.m. Saturdays

-~~! I] PHONE 569 5472

Moroka and Wonnangatta Valleys Fred Halls

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TRACK NOTES

These track notes are published to assist both new and experienced walkers. Every effort is made to ensure their accuracy, but Walk accepts no respon­sibility for misinterpretations by the reader, or for changes in track condi­tions and descriptions. And please be warned: information given in these notes will become out of date as man-made features come and go. Walk will be pleased to receive corrections and amendments to these notes.

Permission should always be sought prior to crossing private land. Walkers should always carry map and compass, appropriate clothing and first-aid equipment. A reliable person not going on the walk should know your plans, party size and expected time of return .

THE WONNANGATTA-MOROKA NATIONAL PARK

When the Wonnangatta-Moroka National Park is eventually enlarged during 1985 - in conjunc~ion with neighbouring parks- to an area of approxi­mately 600,000 hectares, it will become the largest national park in Victoria. Linked with the other Victorian alpine national parks contiguous with the great Kosciusko National Park, it is part of the greatest national park complex in Australia and should be listed as part of the Australian Natural Heritage.

This fact should encourage many more bushwalkers to wander through these inspiring mountains, getting to know Victoria's alpine country more thoroughly. There are many superb natural features in the Moroka Park such as dark red ramparts of Devonian sandstone above deep blue river valleys, sphagnum moss bogs and frost hollows in upland valleys of rolling high plains, silvered woollybutt forest, groves of twisted snow gums on rocky knolls and mile-high peaks , and the wildflower rock terraces on broken terrain of red-brown sandstone cuestas (saw-tooth ridges) .

Probably the most suitable scheme for walking in the Wonnangatta­Moroka National Park is to visit it during the Christmas-New Year period, establish a suitable base camp from which to operate, use transport to reach the walk starting point and complete any of the I , 2 or 3 day walks described in the following track notes .

The following are the dispersed camping sites which may be used as suitable base camps.

The most suitable and most central site is that located just south of the Snowy Plains airfield and just west of the Howitt Road. Good water is obtainable from the Mount Lookout Creek, just south down the slopes.

Other camp sites are Howitt Plains near Howitt Hut; on the Snowy Plain just north of the airstrip (no water); Doolan's Plain I. 5 km north of Howitt Road; Macfarlane's. There are also other numerous off-road camp sites, close to water suitable for small tent camping .

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It is not wise to travel north from the Wellington River during the colder months unless properly equipped for over-snow travel with chains , winter tread tyres and possessing cross-country skiing experience and equipment , warm clothing and sound footwear. At any season of the year the weather may change suddenly. For further advice it is suggested that you contact the regional Ranger, based at the Airstrip caravan.

ONE DAY WALKS Morokafrom Cromwell's Knob

Fred Halls 3/1/84

Transport: Private , to and from Trapyard Saddle (68 km from Licola) where there is a F.C. V. hut on the grassy flat to the left of the Moroka Road, not far past Trapyard Hill .

Features: Excellent views from Cromwell ' s Knob , and from rocky outcrops on the spur further north.

Best Season: December-March

Distance: 15 km

Standard: Medium

Time: Actual walking, 5-6 hours

Maps: Moroka Lands Dept 832 and Snowy Plains

Description: Follow the wide access track to the right of the hut in an easterly direction , gently uphill at first, then steeply uphill northeast and north to a junction of tracks on a grassy hilltop flat not far south of the main top of Cromwell's Knob (3 km) . Continue north uphill through slightly overgrown snow gums , scrub and rocks to the cairn placed on boulders at the Knob.

From Cromwell's Knob , the view is largely obscured by twisting trees . However, 30 metres north , below the stone cairn , a flat rocky ledge serves as a useful platform from which to view the dark blue depths below the Mt Kent Range , Shanty Hollow and the Moroka River coursing through the gorge surrounded by reddish cliffs .

From this point can also be seen the awful devastation as a result of clear-felling in the Shanty Hollow, Mt Kent and Billy Goat Bluff regions .

Walk left (west) through scrub and rocks to rejoin the track winding westerly around the side of the Knob, then very steeply downhill towards the gully , and again winding steeply upwards to regain the crest of the Spur (5 km).

At an elevation of I ,330 metres, the ridge track passes a serried group of rough grey boulders situated up on the left. After scrambling on to the top of these tumbled conglomerate boulders (5. 5 km) the rugged gorge terrain 3 km west of the Moroka Gorge can be clearly seen in the depths below Mt Dawson . (Difference in elevation 850 metres.) A splendid view of the blue Moroka Valley can be seen, from the Moroka Gorge downstream to the foot of distant Snowy Bluff.

72

WONNANGATTA-MOROKA-MACALISTER RIVERS AREA

10

KI L OME T RES

Breakaway Maps

73

Return to the track along the spur, steeply down , and where the spur flattens out rocky outcrops situated off to the right , somewhat obscured amid the timber, reveal views upstream to the rugged Moroka Gorge (7 .5 km) . Return by the track to the track junction ( 12 km) .

The old logging road leaving east at this point once served the beautiful woollybutt groves below Little Cromwell (Sassafras Gully) .

Return to Trapyard Saddle . This makes a most pleasant conclusion to the walk, walking downhill during late afternoon through the silvered forest of tall mountain gums and snow gums.

Spion Kopje Ridge

Transport: To and from Macfarlane's , 13 .5 km from Arbuckle junction on the Moroka Road and 60 km from Licola . This is the commencement of the track to Tarli Karng . Miller ' s Hut, Mt Wellington and Spion Kopje .

Features: Spion Kopje is situated on the western side of the Wellington Plateau, about 2.5 km southwest of Mt Wellington . From a nearby high plain area northwest of the mountain , the western side has the appearance of a roughly grooved, grey vertical wall of serrated rock . On the extensive crest of Spion Kopje (I ,645 metres) sawtoothed crags are thrust skywards . From the summit there are good views over the Wellington Plateau and west across the Carey River valley to distant Tamboritha and the Bennison Plains . Good views also from Picture Point and other similar vantage points on the western ridge .

Best Season: December-March

Distance: 21 km

Standard: Medium

Time: Actual walking , 5V2 -7 hours

Maps: Moroka Lands Dept 832 and Snowy Plains

Description: Walk in a southerly direction along a track amid silvered snow gums. After several hundred metres the signpost to the right reads 'Tarli Karng via Wellington Plains 3 'h hours ' indicating the track on the left , and 'Tarli Kamg via Spion Kopje ' indicating the more westerly track .

Follow this latter track, marked with yellow triangular markers , yellow painted posts and paint marks on rocks and rock cairns , on to the crest of ridges along the Spion Kopje Range. Climb up through dense groves of twisting snow gums , following the narrow track up and down over three successive knobs . Then the track changes course , taking a more easterly line . At a point where the track ahead becomes rather indistinct, a stone cairn on the right indicates the line of the track, which at this point turns hard right (west); climbing towards a distant rocky high point on the ridge. At about this point, there may be difficulty where the track becomes obscure at rocky outcrops . Care must be taken to follow the correct line of the track as indicated by stone cairns, etc .

Near Picture Point (7 km) for some considerable distance there have been good views , mainly of the Carey River Valley, if one uses the vantage points situated on rocky pinnacles . Soon after, on a high plain area , a suitable lunch

74

Spion Kopje Fred Halls

spot may be found under shady snow gums , providing a good view of the roc ky Spion Kopje ridge (9 km) .

After this spot the track now almost joins the main track (Tarli Kamg) but fo llows the track along the plain to Spion Kopje , as indicated by a sign on the rig ht. Care must be taken in following the track up through rocky terrain to the cairn on the summit rocks of Spion Kopje (I ,645 metres). There are very fi ne views of the Carey River Valley but they are spoiled by the devastation of logg ing operations (II km) .

Follow the track right along the rocky top of Spion Kopje to the southern end, descend to the high plain below , rejoin the main track and turn left. The right track leads to Tarli Kamg . At the next track junction turn left , away fro m Miller 's Hut, walk northerly along the eastern side of Spion Kopje . At the next track junction, near Moroka Gap , continue northwest , then north­east down along Wellington 's Big Plain , past Dunsmuir's Huts back to Macfarlane's .

Northern Conglomerate Creek Circuit

Transport: By transport vehicle to and from Guy 's Hut Car Park . 65 km fro m Licola on the Howitt Road .

Features: The great gorge-like track known as Bryce 's Gorge, a favourite among bushwalkers , may often be considered to be centred about Pieman's Creek. In fact , the broken terrain amid the dark red sandstone bluffs starts at least a couple of kilometres north of Conglomerate Creek, then extends southwards at least 6 km by 2 km wide , thus making Conglomerate Creek the main stream and Pieman's Creek only a tributary .

There are numerous good views further north . There are several will-o­the-wisp waterfall s and cataracts hundreds of metres below on the red rock

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Conglomerate, cataracts that are often heard splashing below in the hidden depths, but are rarely seen from the rubbly cliffs . To fully appreciate the beauty of that red-brown sandstone gorge tract, with its excellent waterfalls, it is necessary to roam around the rim of each cliffy headland, peering in tum into each of the dizzy depths. But take care on the rubbly cliff tops . Tucked away behind those headlands there are parklike rises capped with colourful snow gums.

During early January, the grassy alpine meadows are alight with the blooms of alpine natives . There are flawless sun orchids, ranging in colour from almost purple through light blue and mauve to salmon pink. With these are the pale blue Westringia , the beautiful Purple Violet , deep pink Trigger Plants and Azure Daisies.

From each rocky red bluff there are differing outlooks . Further north, there are more extensive views as the rocky bluffs are higher. From a higher sandstone ledge, situated on a more northern bluff, there are excellent views of the great eroded bowl of Bryce's Gorge , 700 metres deep and 4 km across to the red-bronze cliffs which form the southeastern rampart.

Distance: 15 km

Standard: Easy-Medium (navigation by map and compass required)

Time: Actual walking , 6-7 hours

Maps: Moroka Lands Dept 832 and Snowy Plains

Description: Follow the track northerly across two branches of Pieman's Creek to the fence near Guy's Hut. Tum right along the fence, go out the back through the slip rails , then north out over the high plain to the Red Gravel Crossing (2.5 km). From here walk northeast , cross Conglomerate Creek and climb through open woollybutt forest northeast to the edge of the

East side of Snowy Range near Bryce's Gorge

76

Fred Halls

scarp (4 km). Turn right, and follow the edge E.S .E. , walking through fine open forest out to the highest point on the ridge. Several fine views . Continue south a short distance (5 krn) .

Turn northwest, then head around the gully dropping to the south. Walk south 800 metres down to a narrow ridge, climb southeast 700 metres along the ridge to a vantage point affording views south over the Conglomerate Gorge (7 km) . Walk carefully around the isolated top, which drops away on all sides, with cliffs on the west side.

Walk northwest 700 metres, then walk 200 metres southwest, cross Conglomerate Creek (8 km) . After crossing Conglomerate Creek follow the western rim of the Conglomerate Gorge, a beautiful red-brown gorge, rising towards the south. Follow rough tracks- possibly cattle pads- close to the edge with good views of the Conglomerate Creek falling a long way into the deep red gorge . Further back to the south, on a high point, there is a splendid view of all the Conglomerate Creek Falls (9 km).

Follow the rim of Bryce's Gorge southerly over the rolling plains amid the si lvered snow gums, a pleasant place among the January wildflowers of the alpine Spring. After 1.5 km (10.5 krn), on a cliff edge about 150 metres north of Pieman's Creek, there is a good view of a spectacular waterfall tumbling from high cliffs into a ferny glen- the Pieman's Creek Falls . Continue south to Pie man's Creek just above the falls where there is a good swimming hole but the water is quite cold.

Cross the creek and scramble up the steep scarp high on the far side for good views over the gorge tract near Pie man's Falls (II km).

Return to the creek and follow the track upstream . In a short distance look for a track to the left (south). Follow this track southeast to the peaked summit of Bryce's Gorge Lookout ( 12.5 km). Excellent views over Bryce's Gorge and Conglomerate Creek country. Return to the creek and follow upstream. At the creek junction follow the left branch back to the Guy's Hut track. Tum left and continue left along the track back to transport . An excellent walk.

TWO DAY WALKS Lake Tarli Karng

Transport: This beautiful mountain lake is the popular destination for thousands of walkers annually, many of them family groups making a first pilgrimage. The shortest , easiest and most popular route is access by road from Licola, Wellington River and Mofoka Road to Macfarlane's (60 krn from Licola).

Features: Tarli Kamg, the full name Tarli Kamgo Nigothuruka, or the little lake of Nigothuruk, was formed when a great landslide below the Sentinels blocked the valleys of Nigothuruk and Nightingale Creeks, thus creating a large natural dam. The devastation thus caused may be seen below the tam in the Valley of Destruction .

The beautiful light of the early morning rays of the summer sun lightly touch the rippling surface of the lake's clear waters, stirred by the day's first zephyrs. It is most refreshing to swim in the crystal clear waters of the tam during hot summer days but remember that, in places, the water is very deep

77

Lake T arli Karng Fred Halls

and cold and may cause cramping. Also, in summer, take care to avoid snakes sunning themselves by the water ' s edge.

Considering the large number of walkers who have used this favourite camp site , there has been relatively little damage (although about 25 years ago some hazel trees were cut down to provide tent poles) . Behind the beautiful flat where Nightingale Creek enters the lake there 's the ever­crowding mountain forest with its abundant wildlife and the unspoilt sylvan glades.

Distance: 27 .5 km

Standard: Easy-Medium

Time: Walking time for the trip is outward journey 3'/z-4 hours , return journey 4'12-5 hours. Total walking time 8-9 hours , based on an average family group .

Best Season: Do not attempt when snow conditions are imminent. A sound tent , warm clothing an.d nourishing food are necessities.

Maps: Moroka Lands Dept 832 and Snowy Plains

Description: Leave the transport vehicle. Follow the track south to a track junction. Follow the main track southwest past Dunsmuir's Huts, across The Big Plain of Wellington, climbing up to the valley head near Moroka Gap (6.5 km). At the track junction tum right , follow the track south and southwest past the southeast flanks of Spion Kopje. Tum right at the next track junction and follow the Tarli Kamg track past the site of Riggall's Hut (8 .5 km). Follow the shortcut Gillio's Track down to the lake (13 .5 km).

2nd Day: From the west side of the lake look for the zigzag track leading northwest up toward Echo Point ( 14.5 km; I ,210 metres). From there a good view of the lake can be seen well below, backed by the twin knobs of The

78

Sentinels, 707 metres above the tarn. The Sentinels are the south-westerly outposts of the Wellington Plateau , the wide high plains region that forms the divide between the Avon , Moroka, Wellington , Carey and Dolodrook Rivers .

Near Echo Point, tum right and follow Riggall ' s Spur jeep track steeply up, parallel to the course of Nightingale Creek. Return to the site ofRiggall 's Hut. Follow the main track once more past the vicinity of Moroka Gap , along the Big Plain back to Macfarlane 's. Return distance 27.5 krn.

Normally this is a two-day walk , although with an early morning start it may be completed in one day . Under those circumstances , the standard would then be Long-Medium and a fair standard of fitness would be req uired , particularly on the Riggall 's Spur section of the track .

Alternative Walk: Another method of approach is to follow the Wellington River Road from Licola to the foot of the Bennison Spur. Follow the Wellington River Track easterly , then up along the Riggall 's Spur Track to Tarli Kamg . A much longer and more difficult return walk than that along the track from Macfarlane 's (48 km return distance) .

The Crosscut Saw

Al though Tarli Karng is probably the most well-known destination in the Wonnangatta-Moroka country, there is another at least as important as the litt le lake of Nigothuruk . This is the Mt Howitt-Crosscut Saw region . The shortest approach to Mt Howitt is by road from Mansfield , by way of the Mt Stirling Ring Road and the Bindaree Road to the foot of Howitt Spur. Leave the transport near the Howqua River, climb up along the Howitt Spur to Howitt Summit, the Crossroads of the Great Divide . Another more feasible walking route is that from the south, travelling to the starting point by road through Heyfield and Licola, along the Wellington River, past Mt Arbuckle, over the Snowy Plains to the Howitt P-lains. It is a long way from Melbourne by road transport. 340 krn from Melbourne, 82 km from Licola.

In making a comparison between the two main walk approaches to Mt Howitt , the following facts should be noted:

Approach from the Howqua River Valley: From the west, the distance by road from Melbourne is approxir.,ately 280 km. Walking distance to Mt Howitt is II km. Climb from the start . Difference in elevation 900 metres .

Approach from the Howitt Plains: From the south, the distance by road fro m Melbourne is approximately 340 krn . Walking distance to Mt Howitt is 6 km . Climb from the start . Difference in elevation 120 metres.

In addition, the road approach from the south, by logging roads, is much better, although much longer, and the road surface is superior, the road wider and better graded . The road down towards Bindaree is at times second, or even third , rate, particularly when wet. Take care on the south approach as there is sometimes loose gravel.

The above information may assist in making a decision regarding direc­tion of approach and walking route.

Transport: Follow the Howitt Road to the Howitt Plains, where the old logging road turns towards the west (82 km from Licola) and winds down to

79

the head of the Macalister River. Leave the transport vehicle near the spot where the track leaves to the north for Macalister Springs .

Features: The Crosscut Saw, probably the most impressive natural feature in the Wonnangatta-Moroka National Park. It is a narrow spectacular saw­tooth range section of the Great Divide north from Mt Howitt past Mt Buggery to Mt Speculation.

The thirteen sawtooth red-brown peaks of the Crosscut Saw provide inspiring views of the blue King. Howqua and Wonnangatta River Valleys, the blue depths of Terrible Hollow and the knife edge ridges of The Viking and the Razor.

Best Season: Springtime on the Crosscut Saw during early January is a blaze of colour, when the multitude of native plants on the rocky alpine herbfields can be seen at their peak .

Distance: 37 km

Standard: Medium

Time: Actual walking, I st day 6-7 hours , 2nd day 8'1murs

Map: Howitt Lands Dept 822

Description: Walk north, and at 3 km a track to the right leaves for the upper Wonnangatta Valley. Continue straight ahead , and later arrive at the Vallejo Gantner Hut (4.5 km) . Macalister Springs is situated a short distance from the hut. The water supply, previously reliable during earlier times, should be viewed with caution as it is now known that parasitic nematodes pollute the water. It is best to boil water from the spring.

From this point, look for a faint track leading along a spur northeast and north to a rocky lookout point, affording splendid views of Terrible Hollow , the thirteen peaks of the Crosscut Saw, and the giant stepped cliffs descend­ing east along the Devil's Staircase to the upper Wonnangatta River (5 .3 km). Return to Macalister Springs (6 km).

------------~~~~~--~

The Viking and Terrible Hollow Fred Halls

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Follow the walking track westwards along the ridge. After about 800 metres, look for a vantage point just over the north side of the narrow ridge . From here, there are fine views of the bronze cliffs of the Devil's Staircase region and of Terrible Hollow below. Return to the track and continue west reaching the summit of Mt Howitt (I, 742 metres) at 8 km. What a magnifi­cent view there is from this peak, situated at the Crossroads of the Alps and dominating the eastern depths of the lovely Howqua Valley .

The Crosscut Saw, which is the narrow and scenic sawtooth ridge of the Great Dividing Range, exists as a watershed between Murray waters (the King and Howqua) and Gippsland rivers (the Wonnangatta and Macalister) . Walk along the narrow, rocky ridge, undulating and weaving in a northwest and north direction . At I 0 km you reach the point where the crest of the Stanley Name Spur (Thorn Range) joins the Dividing Range at a high flower-strewn knoll . Terrible Hollow looms in the eastern depths below your feet.

Continue along the ridge south of Mt Buggery into a deep range gap. On the steep climb to Mt Buggery (I ,615 metres) avoid any side tracks, follow the main ridge northerly . Mt Buggery is situated at the point where the Queen Spur joins the main range (12.5 km) .

Continue down into yet another deep range gap, Horrible Gap, before the long steep climb to Mt Speculation . There are excellent views from the summit at I, 722 metres . Sadly though, the results of large-scale logging are still plainly visible, J1articularly in the Mt Despair-Barry Mountains section and in the King-Howqua region.

Descend I km northeast to a good grassy camp site located at the head of the Catherine River ( 16 km) . Camp overnight.

2nd Day: Return along the Crosscut Saw to Mt Howitt (24 km) . Return east along the track to Macalister Springs (26 km). Walk south (1 .5 km) to the tum-offto the upper Wonnangatta Valley track. If you have the time and the inclination, tum left and follow this track slightly downhill east. At 1.5 km (29 km) the track turns right , dips sharply, then continues E.N.E. After a further 1.5 km, where the track turns southeast, leave the track and walk north 200-300 metres to the point where the timbered ridge drops sharply north 700 metres into the valley of the upper Wonnangatta. From this spot, at an elevation of I ,462 metres, there are excellent views in a northern arc, ranging from the rocky steps of the Devil's Staircase to the distant Razor and the twin horns of the Vikin!;'6 km distant across the blue depths of the upper Wonnangatta (31 km).

Return to the main track (34 km), tum left and return to the transport (37 km). This is the best walk in Victoria at alpine levels .

THREE DAY WALK Snowy Bluff and Two Mile Creek Valley

Transport: On the Moroka Road, 51 km from Licola, tum left and in 1.5 km reach all that remains ofthe Doolan's Plain forestry camp situated to the left of the road. 200 metres further on, the Moroka River track sign to the right reads 'Moroka River, 4-wheel drive'. Leave the transport vehicle near this point, which is the start and finish point .

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Features: There are three waterfalls on Snowy Bluff Creek . The main summit of Snowy Bluff is thickly timbered, the only view being a glimpse of the Wonnangatta country through the trees. However, the views from the lower eastern peak are excellent. Large flat slabs of red Devonian sandstone form the summit of this eastern peak. It is a great spot from which to view the lush Happy Valley flats of Wonnangatta and Eaglevale far below, and the views of the heights of the Mt Kent Range above.

Best Season: December-April (to avoid high river levels)

Distance: 32 .5 krn

Standard: Medium-Hard

Time: Actual walking, 7 hours

Map: Moroka Lands Dept 832

Description: Leave Doolan's Plain Road on the Moroka River jeep track , walk east and north past a complex of logging roads, through logged-over country to a three-way track junction. Avoid roads to left and right and follow the fainter jeep track straight ahead, indicated by a deep arrow cut in an old tree stump. Follow the jeep track northwards; at the next flat follow the right hand track across the flat then through a timber belt , cross through the middle of another open flat. Follow the main track down .

The track, now well-defined, follows the spur down northeasterly , drop­ping slightly at first then very steeply. On the last section, the track zigzags in wide turns to the Moroka River, 8 km from Doolan 's Plain . The jeep track turns upstream , follow for 300 metres. Cross the river near this point where the stream is more shallow. Do not cross when the river level is high . It can be quite fast after heavy rain.

Many beautiful park-like camp sites may be found on the far side, 30 metres above the river. This spot can be used as a base for interesting walks in the Moroka River district . Distance 8 km . Camp for the night.

2nd Day: A small quantity of water should be carried for lunch . From the camp site climb east upward along the spur between Snowy Bluff Creek and Two Mile Creek. At about 1.5 km look southeast towards the steeply enclosed head of Two Mile Creek for the large waterfall on this stream, falling from the timbered heights of Mt Dawson . A little higher the spur almost reaches Snowy Bluff Creek at the topmost of three large waterfalls; leave packs and walk downstream to view these fine falls , called the Snowy Bluff Creek Falls.

Return to the packs and cross the creek just above the top waterfall; follow the well-defined spur upwards in a northerly direction, avoiding cliffs dropping away on the left (west) . Although fairly steep, the walking is pleasant, being mostly through open, grassy forest . The end of the steepest section· is reached where the range swings E.N.E. , then rises more gradually to the timbered summit of Snowy Bluff ( l ,417 metres) 5 km . Apart from a small 'window ' out on Wonnangatta Valley through a natural frame of alpine trees, little can be seen, but this route seems to be the best way to approach this isolated peak.

By continuing east past a ridge-top saddle , in just under I km you reach the eastern peak (I ,250 metres) 6 km. This excellent vantage point situated

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on the red rock ledges provides an unrestricted viewpoint of the Wonnangatta-Moroka Rivers just upstream of their junction , Eag1evale , and southward along the Mt Kent Range (6 km) .

Return to Snowy Bluff Creek , cross the creek above the top waterfall , follow spur easterly, then shortly follow the land contour easterly I krn to a rocky outcrop affording a good view S.S.E. of Two Mile Creek falling from the red heights across the valley (I I . 5 km) . Return to the spur ( 12 krn) . Look for an easy route zigzagging down southeast into Two Mile Creek Valley ( 13 km) . Walk southeast a short distance , then clamber up to the foot of the waterfall ( 13.5 km).

Return to the valley floor. The upper section of this valley is almost surrounded by high walls of red-brown sandstone . Follow the park-like walled valley ofTwo Mile Creek west downstream back to camp ( 16.5 krn).

3rd Day: Cross the Moroka River and follow the jeep track westerly upwards along the spur, returning to transport situated near Doolan 's Plain (8 km) . Total distance 32 .5 km .

To visit the junction of the Moroka-Wonnangatta Rivers involves an extra day 's walk of 20 km . Follow the Moroka River downstream , walking northerly along the stream's eAstern bank . At 5 km , pass the downstream end of Carey Creek where it joins the Moroka. At 8 km , pass the wide green flats of Moroka Glen, and at I 0 km, reach the point where the Moroka joins the beautiful Wonnangatta River . Return to Higgin ' s Yard (20 krn) . Total distance 52 .5 km.

Carey Creek Valley Fred Halls

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THE LORNE FOREST PARK, OTWAY RANGES

History: Prior to the European settlement in the Otways, the Aborigines rarely visited the ranges, as they considered the area to be too inhospitable and wet. The first recorded exploration into the Otways failed in 1837, with its two members disappearing without trace, Joseph Gellibrand and his partner Jesse . The first successful journey was made in 1846 by Governor Charles La Trobe across the ranges to Cape Otway, to pave the way for the construction of the urgently needed lighthouse at the cape for shipping around the treacherous coast .

The history of the Otway Ranges since European settlement has mainly been dominated by the local timber industry. During this time a railway­tramway network was constructed to transport timber and this became the main life-line for the small communities which dotted the ranges . By 1851 a track had been cut from Geelong to Loutit (which is now known as Lome) and to Apollo Bay, the two main settlements in the Otways. Timber was shipped regularly to Melbourne from both of these towns . Initially the timber was dragged by horses or bullocks along primitive tramways to the beach and then barged out to waiting ships .

Today both of these towns are tourist areas attracting many holiday makers, many of whom are including bush walking in their activities while staying in the Otways.

Features: The area is notable for its beauty, scenic coast and peaceful forest reserves. It offers a natural forest backdrop to the ocean and includes several swiftly flowing streams offering numerous waterfalls, cascades and rapids .

Upper Kalimna Falls, Lorne Forest Park

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Philip Larkin

The walking tracks within the Lome Forest Park follow approximately 24 km of historic timber tramway routes and wind through fern gullies and gorges , in many places traversing cliff faces . There is an abundance of fauna such as the echidna, platypus, possums and gliders , which are all common to the Otway Ranges.

Best Season: Early spring for the wildflowers and to mid autumn, when the weather is still quite mild for swimming after the walks.

Map References: Lome I :50,000 Natmap. Lome I :25 ,000 and Mount Cowley I :25,000 Vicmap

Further Information: Lome Forest Commission pamphlet and information sheet and Lome Forest Walks , both issued by the Forest Commission of Victoria

Grid References: Are all taken from I :25 ,000 series

TWO DAY WALK IN THE OTW A YS

Mount Cowley- Cumberland River- Curtis Clearing

Standard: Easy-Medium

Distance: Main walk 44 km , shorter walk 37 km

Note: There are several side tracks not indicated on all maps.

Transport: Private cars . Take the Great Ocean Road through to Lome township , tum right into the first street , (GR592298) , after the Lome foreshore carpark , onto the Erskine Falls Road and continue to follow the road until reaching a T intersection (GR494330). Then tum left onto the Mount Sabine Road and proceed for approximately another 6 km, until reaching Mackie Road (GR478290) on your left hand side for overnight camp site .

First Day: Allow approximately 9 hours for main walk .

Distance: Main walk 23 km , shorter walk 16 km

Summary: The first day's walk starts from Mackie Road west of Mount Cowley, with a short climb up to Mount Cowley. Then follow Garveys Track into Lome Forest Park to visit six waterfalls during the day's walk before going onto Cumberland River Camping Ground for overnight camp.

Start the weekend walk from the junction of Mount Sabine and Mackie Roads (GR478290) which is only a foot track from regrowth these days . Mackie Road is not indicated on the I :25,000 map series . Continue along Mackie Road which follows the upper reaches of Garvey Creek in an easterly direction until reaching a Y intersection (GR491288) on the track. At this point leave the track and tum north into the rain forest , to start the climb up onto Mount Cowley , through spectacular undergrowth of tree ferns, lichens and fungi , amongst manna gum, messmate , and stringybarks on the higher slopes . Once into the rain forest pick up the spur and follow spur up in a northerly direction, keeping slightly to your left hand side , until reaching the summit of Mount Cowley (GR491293) where the Telecom tower is situated .

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Proceed down from the summit in a south-easterly direction for approxi­mately 250 metres onto Garvey Track (GR492292). At this point tum right on to Garvey Track and continue down towards Lome Forest Park, through tall rain forest of magnificent stands of manna gum, messmate and oc­casional blue gum. Continue along Garvey Track passing Henderson Track (GR499289) , then the track swings south for a short distance , then heads east for approximately half a kilometre to a T junction at Sharps Road (GR550288) . At this point the vehicle track turns south-east again, descend­ing gradually down hill, before taking a short sharp climb up onto a high point (GR507284) of 604 metres on the track. After reaching the high point , the track gradually descends down, still on a south-easterly bearing. Con­tinue on for approximately 500 metres until reaching a well defined four­wheel vehicle track (GR51 0280) on your right hand side of Garvey Track. Take this four-wheel track down the spur, which follows the divide between the upper reaches of Kalimna Creek and Little Sheoak, travelling in easterly direction for apprmdmately 2 km. At this point keep a sharp lookout for a very overgrown foot track (GR526276), on your right hand side . Tum south down this foot track which crosses the Little Sheoak Creek in a short distance, then proceed up onto the other side , still following the track in a southerly bearing , until reaching Garvey Track (GR525270), for the second time. Then tum left into an easterly direction for approximately I Vzkm , along the main vehicle track , until reaching a Forest Commission sign to Kalimna waterfalls (GR539271) , on the left hand side of Garvey Track.

Take the foot track behind the sign and descend crossing a beautiful fern gully of the Little Sheoak Creek, and continue up on the other side of the gully and over a small ridge, until reaching a T junction (GR539275) on forest foot tracks (which are old timber tramways), where there are Forest Commission signs to the upper and lower Kalimna Falls and the Sheoak Picnic Grounds . Tum left for a short walk to the upper Kalimna Waterfalls

Fern gully, Little Sheoak Creek Philip Larkin

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(GR533276), an ideal first choice for a lunch spot. These falls are about 20 metres high , and consist of a series of cascades tumbling from one rock ledge to the next. Leave the waterfalls retracing your footsteps back to the junction and continue downstream to the lower Kalimna Falls (GR540276), by taking a small side track down to these waterfalls, an ideal second choice for a lunch spot and also swimming in the warmer weather. These falls are 8 metres high and accessible from behind via an undercut rock ledge . After leaving the waterfall continue downstream for approximately l 'h krn until reaching a track junction (GR554280) . Proceed from here crossing the wooden bridge over the Sheoak Creek on your left hand side, following the timber tramway alignment, the wooden sleepers of which are still visible. Along this section tall creamy-trunked blue gums grow in the lower reaches of the valley, where higher up messmate and mountain grey gums are the main species of trees. Keep on this tramway alignment until reaching a foot track junction (GR564285), just above the main Lome-Allenvale Road . A few metres to your right there are Forest Commission signs pointing to Won Wondah and Henderson Falls , the Canyon and the Sheoak Picnic Ground.

At this point you can shorten the walk via the Sheoak Picnic Ground to meet up with the main walk later on (see later notes) .

To continue the main walk via Won Wondah, Henderson and Phantom Falls and the Canyon, tum left over a low scrubby spur, crossing Sharps Road (GR565286) back onto the main walking track. The foot track follows up the Henderson Creek Valley in a westerly direction, proceed along this track for a short distance, until reaching the Won Wondah Falls turnoff (GR560288) which is to the right of the main track. Return to the main foot track and continue upstream to Henderson Falls passing by the intersection (GR558289) to the Canyon. Keep walking along this forest track for a short distance , through a hazel and blackwood forest, until reaching the Hender­son Falls (GR556290). This spot is one of the most beautiful places in the Lome Forest Park - the waterfalls are set in an attractive fern glade with mossy back rock wall . Retrace your steps back to the junction with a Forest Commission sign post pointing to the waterfalls and also to the Canyon . Tum left onto this track, which gains some height in a northerly direction as it follows the shallow bed of a creek, then descends down to cross a small creek. Beyond the next divide the track suddenly enters the Canyon (GR559296) and can be followed through to view this fascinating geological feature from above, by climbing out through a small cavity in the rock formation . This section of the track is incorrectly marked on the map. The foot track should read from grid reference (GR559289) to grid reference (GR559296) . After reaching the top of the Canyon, tum left and follow the forest track around to the intersection of the Henderson Vehicle Track (GR565294) . At this point tum right and proceed for approximately l krn, gradually descending the spur, following the vehicle track around the top of the ridge, until reaching the top of Phantom Waterfalls (GR568297). From the top of the falls, take the track down the cliff face, to the base of the Phantom Falls. An ideal swimming spot in the warmer weather. These waterfalls are some 15 metres in height, almost a sheer drop from a rock ledge, to a large rock pool below. Proceed in a south-easterly direction downstream, passing by a new walking track (GR57l298) which takes you onto the Cora Lynn scenic walk. Keep on the main foot track along the Saint

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George River, via a small farm hamlet, until reaching the main Lome­Ailenvale Road (GR577290) . At this point there are Forest Commission signs to Lome, Phantom Waterfalls and the Sheoak Picnic Ground. From here proceed right over the wooden bridge back to the Sheoak Picnic Ground (GR564284) . Continue the walk along the main Lome-Ailenvale Road in a south-westerly direction back to the Forest Commission signs (GR564285) over the intersection of Sharps Road and tum left.

At this point the shorter walk joins the main walk. Proceed down onto a foot track which takes you through a ferny glade into

the Sheoak Picnic Grounds (GR564284) where there is a tourist guide , toilets and barbeques. From here take the Sheoak walking track out through to the ocean , crossing over several fern gullies for approximately 2 km until reaching the Swallow Cave (GR578270) and proceed downstream for a short distance to reach the top of the Sheoak Waterfalls (GR580272).

The Swallow Cave is so named because of the large number of Welcome swallows' nests in the roof crevices each Spring. The Sheoak Falls has almost a vertical drop of 15 metres from a series of smaller cascades into a deep pool below. Continue the walk by crossing at top of the waterfalls to the right hand side and proceeding down the lower Sheoak Track, out to the ocean (GR583269). At this point tum right on to the Great Ocean Road and continue south along the coastline to the Cumberland River camping reserve (GR567263) for overnight camp.

Second Day: Allow approximately 8 hours

Distance: 21 km (for both main walk and shorter walk)

Summary: The second day ' s walk starts from the Cumberland River camp­ing reserve with a gradual climb up onto Mount Defiance. Then follow the Cumberland Track along the ridge until reaching Curtis Road. Proceed along Curtis Road, crossing the upper reaches of the Cumberland River and continuing with a sharp climb up the spur until the road reaches Mount Sabine Road. Then return to Mackie Road to finish the weekend walk.

Continue the second day's walk from the start of the Cumberland River Track (GR568261) , just south of the camping reserve on the Great Ocean Road, passing around a vehicle barrier at the bottom of the track. At this point the track gradually winds up around the spur, then turns west for a short distance, before swinging onto a south-westerly direction. Continue along this section for approximately 13-4 km until reaching a track junction (GR555256) coming down from the ridge on your left hand side . Tum onto this track and proceed up along this ridge until reaching the high point (GR562258) overlooking the ocean. From this spot you have breathtaking views over the Cumberland River Reserve and across to Castle Rock and Mount Saint George in the direction of Lome. After leaving the high point , retrace your steps back along the ridge until reaching the Cumberland Track and continue in a westerly direction towards Mount Defiance . During the spring season there is an abundance of wildflowers and a variety of bird life along this ridge . After reaching the summit of Mount Defiance (GR543258) , the track follows the divide between the Cumberland River and the Jamieson Creek . Proceed along the divide for approximately 11-4 km from the summit of Mount Defiance until reaching a fork on the track (GR528258). Take the left hand fork of the track, which continues up a slight rise as a continuation

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of the main track , before descending gradually down the spur in a westerly direction . Proceed along the Cumberland Track for approximate!.¥ another 5 1h km until reaching the intersection of Curtis Road (GR486248). The trac-k in this section swings around to the north then to the west then around to the south with a very steep descent and thick undergrowth in some sections before reaching Curtis Road. At this point there is a Forest Commission sign indicating the start of the Cumberland River Track from the western end of the track.

Continue the walk turning north along Curtis Road through magnificent stands of mountain ash, manna gum and blue gum. Proceed along the track for approximately 1 km before dropping steeply down into the beautiful river valley of the upper Cumberland River (GR476256). Cross to the opposite side of the stream, an ideal lunch spot. After crossing the Cumberland River, start a steady climb up the spur on a westerly bearing for approximately 1 km, then the track swings south for a short distance before reaching a T intersection (GR463254), which is not indicated on the map. At this point tum right and proceed in a north-westerly direction , which follows the divide between the upper tributaries of the Cumberland River. Continue along the divide for approximately 1 km until reaching a vehicle barrier (GR455262), proceed around the barrier and follow a gravel track beyond this point. At this stage the track curves around a low ridge line, going from one direction to another, before swinging around to the south-west for a short distance , until reaching the intersection of Mount Sabine Road (GR447263) .

Tum right onto the main forest road following the main ridge running from north to south and continue along Mount Sabine Road to finish the walk back at your starting point of the previous day .

Philip M. Larkin 30 March to 1st April1984

ONE DAY WALK IN THE LORNE FOREST PARK

The Great Ocean Road- Sheoak Creek- The Canyon­Phantom Falls- Cora Lynn Cascades

Standard: Easy-Medium

Distance: 16 km

Time: Allow approximately 8 hours

Transport: Private cars . Use a car shuffle between the start and the finish of walk . Take the Great Ocean Road through to Lome township, then take the cars to the finish of the walk by turning right into the first street (GR592298) after the Lome foreshore car park, onto the Erskine Falls Road. Continue to follow the road until reaching a new picnic area (GR549327) above the Cora Lynn Cascades . Return to Lome with the balance of the cars. After reaching Lome proceed onto the Great Ocean Road to the estuary of the Sheoak Creek (GR583269) , approximately 4V2 km south from the post office at Lome, for the start of the walk.

This walk takes in five major water falls, three swiftly flowing streams with several cascades and Castle Rock for a spectacular day's walking.

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Start the walk from the estuary of the Sheoak Creek (GR583269) on the southern side of the stream, proceed up the foot track for a short distance until reaching the Sheoak Falls (GR580272). These falls have almost a vertical drop of 15 metres, from a series of smaller cascades into a deep pool below. They are enhanced by the contrast between the heavily wooded, dark green hillside sloping down to the waterfalls and a grass spur and banks downstream dotted with graceful sheoak. After leaving the falls take the upper track above the Sheoak Creek with a Forest Commission sign to Castle Rock . Follow the foot track to Castle Rock for a little distance until reaching aT junction, tum right onto the Sheoak Vehicle Track and continue gradu­ally up a steep spur for approximately I km through open stringybark­peppermint forest, until reaching a Y intersection (GR568270) on top of the ridge . At this spot veer sharp left in a southerly direction and after approxi­mately 400 metres a foot track on your right drops sharply down to Castle Rock (GR578267). From here, above the camping ground, you get breath­taking views over the coast line and up the Cumberland Valley, with spectacular rock formations in the cliff faces in all directions . Proceed back to the Sheoak Falls and Swallow Cave via the same r<mte until reaching a Forest Commission sign (GR579272) above the stream. Tum left and cross the log bridge and proceed up stream for approximately 2 km following the foot track and crossing several foot bridges over fern gullies , until reaching the Sheoak Picnic Grounds (GR564284), where there is a tourist guide, toilets and barbeques .

Continue the walk, crossing the picnic grounds to your right hand side and following the Forest Commission signs to Won Wondah and Henderson Waterfalls . The walking track leads through a ferny glade and winds up the opposite bank to the main Lome-Allendale Road (GR564285). At this point the foot track crosses the road, then over a low scrubby spur, crossing Sharps Road (GR565286), back onto the main walking track . The foot track follows up the Henderson Creek Valley in a westerly direction . Proceed along this track for a short distance, until reaching the Won Wondah Falls turnoff (GR560288), which is to the right of the main track. Return back to the main foot track and continue upstream to Henderson Falls passing by the inter­section (GR558289) to the Canyon . Keep walking along this forest track for a short distance, through a hazel and blackwood forest, until reaching the Henderson Falls (GR556290). This spot is one of the most beautiful places in the Lome Forest Park, the waterfalls are set in an attractive fern glade with a mossy back rock wall. Retrace your steps back to the junction with a Forest CoffilTiission sign post pointing to the waterfalls and the Canyon. Tum left onto this track, which gains some height in a northerly direction, as it follows the shallow bed of a creek, then descends down to cross a small creek. Beyond the next divide the track suddenly enters the Canyon (GR559296) and can be followed through to view this fascinating geological feature from above, by climbing out through a small cavity in the rock formation. This section of the track is incorrectly marked on the map. The foot track should read from grid reference (GR559289) to grid reference (GR559296) . After reaching the top of the Canyon, tum left and follow the forest track around to the intersection of the Henderson Track (GR565294). At this point tum right and proceed for approximately I km, gradually descending down the spur, following the vehicle track around the top of the

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ridge, until reaching the top of Phantom Waterfalls (GR568297). An ideal swimming spot in the warmer weather.

From the falls, take the track above the waterfalls and cross over the weir to the northern side . Proceed to the left through open timber for a short distance, until reaching a vehicle track (GR568297). Tum left onto the track and continue the walk, until reaching a track intersection (GR567297). Take the left hand fork and proceed up the valley to the lake on the Saint Georges River, an ideal spot for afternoon tea . Take the vehicle track around the edge of the lake to the northern shore . Follow the shore line of the lake through the scrub to the northern tip of the lake (GR562306) . At this point proceed north through the bush, climbing up onto the ridge, until reaching the Cora Lynn four-wheel drive vehicle track . Tum left and continue along the Saint Georges-Cora Lynn divide for approximately 250 metres until the track forks (GR561307). Take the right hand branch and proceed north-west until the track disappears (GR56031 0). Continue into the scrub for approximately 20 metres, until reaching the reconstructed Cora-Lynn track , approximately half way along its length .

Proceed upstream along the Cora Lynn valley in a north-westerly direc­tion for approximately 2 km . This takes you through a spectacular gorge offering an abundance and variety of fern species, which would delight an enthusiast , and a varied understorey, with mint bush, hazel, austral mulberry and blanketwood being the most common. The walking track crosses the stream several times, where rock hopping becomes necessary , before entering a canyon type setting immediately below the cascades. After reaching the lower cascades, take the forest track up to your right, to the Cora Lynn Falls (GR549322) for a breathtaking view looking back down into the gorge . An ideal rest spot before climbing out of the valley. Return back down the track towards the lower cascades for a short distance until a track junction. Proceed onto this forest track, which climbs steeply out of the valley, winding its way up the spur in a northerly direction, until reaching an intersection at the top of the ridge. Tum right for a short distance to finish the walk back at the picnic area (GR549327) above the Cora Lynn Falls .

THREE DAY WALK

Philip M. Larkin 27 November 1983

Cheshunt South- Paradise Falls- Mt Warrick­Wabonga Plateau- Mt Typo

Transport: To Cheshunt South (454213) from Bennies (584095)

Features: Fine ridge views from McMillans Track and the Mt Pleasant to Mt Warrick ridge line . Pleasant walking along tracks through open forest .

Best Season: Late Spring-early Summer or early Autumn

Distance: 42 km

Standard: Medium

Maps: VMTC Wabonga State Plateau and I: I 00,000 Buffalo and Whitfield

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Day One: Climb from the King River east road through steep terrain to the rockr ·cap on the plateau near McMillans Track. After carefully making one's way through the rocky barrier, enjoy a well earned break (possibly early lunch) with fine views. Then proceed southwards along the track till the junction marked with pines (480190) where a left tum is made. This track leads to Paradise Falls carpark. Drop packs here and take time to treat yourself to a good view of the Big Fall (31 metres), which is spectacular after good rain. Return to your packs, back up on top, then wander down to Little Fall to find an early but welcome camp beside Stoney Creek. Make sure drinking water is collected from Little Fall. The afternoon can be spent walking in the area or bathing in the waterhole in Stoney Creek.

Day Two: A longish day. Climb back to the road from the campsite and follow it down to farmland till the road crosses Stoney Creek, then proceed through the fence line up to Mt Pleasant . The old track is not very evident but once found can be followed without too much difficulty. Heading east, join the ridge top, carefully continue along it, enjoying the fine views of Rose River Valley below, until the summit of Mt Warrick is reached. A good lunch spot. Some shelter can be found in overhangs on rocks just below the summit if the weather is adverse.

Then proceed south along the summit top for 100 metres before descend­ing sharply westward to a small knoll and the old logging track. This is followed down, veering right until it intersects with Gattys Track. This is followed left for 1 km until another intersection is reached. This time tum right. The track is followed through ferny gladed open forest to Wabonga Block area, having made sure of turning right at theY intersection. This is a good camp site amongst gums between your last creek crossing and the hut ruin area.

Day Three: A pleasant day's walking along tracks to good views from Mt Typo. Depart camp past the ruin through the clearings, turning left at the intersection near the second hut ruin . This 'Stockyard Track' is followed through undulating country to an old Cherry Tree at the saddle several km on. Head downhill towards the Mt Typo saddle, stopping here to drop packs and climb to the top of Mt Typo, where there are glorious views of Mt Cobbler and back along Rose River Valley . Descend back along the ridge to the packs on the track. Have lunch on the saddle. Walk the final descent to Bennies on steep tracks and carefully cross the private paddocks to reach the cars.

Transport: Private

ONE DAY WALK Mt Tallarook- Breech Peak

Mark Tischler 1984

Features: Easy walking along tracks primarily on ridges providing good views and numerous sightings of kangaroos in an open forest

Best Season: Autumn, Winter, Spring

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Standard: Easy

Distance: II km

Water: Water must be carried as there is none available along the track

Map: I :50,000 sheet 7923-iv Tallarook

Description: Commence the walk on top of Mt Tallarook where there is a fire-watch tower. Follow an old jeep track from the top in a south-westerly direction across to the top of the next hill . Along this section of track there are pleasant views of the valley below. Continue to follow the jeep track until it meets a well constructed dirt road. Turn left and follow this road for approximately 1.5 km, uritil there is cleared farm land on the left and cleared land on the right. Make your way back to the top of the ridge by following one of the tracks leading from the right hand side of the road. Once on the ridge there is an old jeep track that runs along the top in a north-westerly direction. Follow this track. After 500 metres it narrows into a pleasant track through the forest, undulating along the ridge. The track now is in open forest which supports numerous kangaroOs. There are views East over farmland and surrounding hills, and West through the forest. After4 to 5 km Breech Peak is reached, which is the Peak that stands behind Tallarook. It is marked by a cairn. After a rest on Breech Peak the rest of the track is downhill. Continue following the foot track through the forest until farmland is reached. Cross the fence and continue along the ridge to the end of the walk which is on the Tallarook/ Alexandra/Mansfield Road at Grid ref. 337927.

ONE DAY WALK Pyrites Creek Area

Gerry Kottek Junel984

Transport: To a point on Hobbs Road, 0.5 km north-west of the Gisbome Melton Road at 839450, and from the gate on Antimony Mine Road at 796373.

Features: A small but rugged area of native scrub and open woodland in an almost natural state, close to the western suburbs of Melbourne

Best Season: All year, but avoid days of high fire danger.

Distance: 16 km

Standard: Easy-Medium

Map reference: Toolem Vale 1:25000 and Bullengarook 1:25000. Older I inch: I mile maps are not satisfactory.

Water: Water should be carried, as streams are intermittent and of dubious quality.

From the starting point at 839450, follow the clearly defined vehicular track for 2 km south-west and then south to Pyrites Creek at 831436. Follow Pyrites Creek south for 0.5 km until a tributary joins from the east at a small flat (829431) . It is best to stay on the east bank, and climb about 50m above

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the creek to avoid patches of thick scrub. There is a steep scramble across a small gully about halfway along . Continue southwards, climbing steeply at first and then more gradually up the spur until Sugarloaf Track is reached at 831422 .

Tum right onto Sugarloaf Track, keep left at the first junction, then follow Sugarloaf Track west and south for about 4 km until the Sugarloaf is reached. An overgrown track angling backwards to the left at the top of the climb leads to the peak and good views of the surrounding countryside . Continue westward for I km until a track junction in a shallow gully is reached . The left branch leads to the end of the walk in about 2.5 km, but a diversion here is well worth while .

The track which continues west down the gully leads in about 2.5 km to the ruins of an antimony mine . Apparently this mine was in use until about ten years ago, but already much has been destroyed by bushfires and neglect. Be careful if exploring the mine site- there are deep shafts on both sides of the valley .

Return from here to the track junction at 801393, and follow Sugarloaf Track south to the end of the walk at 796373 . The last I km of the trip is through private property .

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Hugh Duncan June1984

ONE DAY WALK Little River Gorge- a day up Taggerty way

Transport: Private transport to Cooks Mill via Buxton, Cathedral Lane and Little River Road . Start at the second bridge over Little River (GR769897) . There is ample parking at and upstream from the bridge and ample camping areas. The walk could be combined with a day walk in the Cathedrals to make a very worthwhile base camp weekend close to Melbourne.

Features: Waterfalls , cascades, rock outcrops, tree ferns, moss, forests .

Standard: Medium to hard , depending on ability with rockhopping and climbing scrambly slopes.

Time: The distance is not great but due to the ruggedness of the gorge allow 8 hours . The walk can be shortened.

Best Season: Avoid periods of high river flow or when rocks are wet. Otherwise any time is suitable . Summer includes the opportunity for pos­sible swims and showers.

Map: Thornton I :50,000

This is not about the Little River Gorge near the Snowy River, although that one too is impressive. This one is much closer to Melbourne, hidden away behind the Cathedral Range north of Marysville. The Little River has its headwaters up on the Blue Range . It descends 450 metres in 3 km on its way down to Cooks Mill via an enchanting series of waterfalls , cascades and pools. The major fall is of the orderof40 feet and drops into a narrow chasm. It has one particularly charming tributary , a series of long falls, ferns and mossy shaded rocks. all of which provide a lovely route out of the gorge.

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Starting at the bridge (GR769897), follow the river upstream on the north bank . After 2 km of relatively easy walking through light bush the valley closes in and the cascades start. You will need to do quite a bit of rock­hopping over the next I V2 km. This section is a wonderland of cascades , waterfalls and rocks . Bypass the main fall via a ramp on the south side.

Look out for a tributary coming in from the north east at (GR801889). It's very difficult to find as it enters in a jumble of rocks and vegetation and has no obvious valley because it basically just tumbles and slides down the side of the main valley. You will have gone too far when the valley is south for 1/2

km . Follow up beside this fascinating tributary on its south side. Take time to

explore it thoroughly . When the falls obviously run out, head northwards up the ridge to the Blue Range Road . Follow this westerly to where the Little River fire track leads off to the left at (GR803898). This steep rough track takes you back to your starting point at the bridge.

The walk can be shortened by leaving the river after the main waterfall and sidling north westerly and upward to the Little River fire track (difficult and scrubby) or by retracing your route along the river.

Little River Gorge

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Jopie Bodegraven 1982

Jopie Bodegraven