T H E E D I T O R S O F V O G U E® A N D B U T T E R I C K P A T T E R N S

T H E E D I T O R S O F V O G U E® A N D B U T T E R I C K P A T T E R N S

REVISED & UPDATED EDITION

Vogue® ●ButterickStep-by-Step Vogue®

●ButterickStep-by-Step

GUIDETOSEWINGTechniques

GUIDETOSEWINGTechniques

Vogue®

●Butterick

Step-by-Step

GU

IDE

TOSEW

ING

TEC

HN

IQU

ES

In this newly revised and updated edition of the classic bestseller, the experts at

Vogue® and Butterick Patterns have createdthe ultimate reference for every homesewer. More than 500 essential sewingtechniques are covered in alphabetical

sections—from Appliqués to Zippers, andeverything in between.

With detailed, illustrated step-by-stepinstructions, including updates to reflect the

latest in trends and techniques, theVogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide toSewing Techniques is an essential part of

every modern sewer’s library.

For more than 100 years, the editors at Vogue® and Butterick Patterns have

provided high-quality patterns forhome sewing. They originally createdthis guide in 1989, and since then ithas been continuously in print and

has become a classic bestseller.

C R A F T S S E W I N G

An Illustrated A-to-Z Sourcebookfor Every Home Sewer

Now in a newly revised and updated edition, the Vogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to SewingTechniques is a must-have reference that should be within easy reach of any sewer—novice or

expert. The editors of Vogue® and Butterick Patterns present 500 fundamental and frequently usedsewing techniques in clearly written step-by-step text, accompanied by illustrations.

The 47 topics are arranged alphabetically:

• Appliqués

• Fabric Bands

• Basting

• Fabric Belts,Buckles & Belt Carriers

• Bias Binding

• Buttonholes & Buttons

• Casings

• Collars

• Cuffs

• Cutting Basics

• Darts

• Drawstrings

• Edge & Seam Finishes

• Elastic Applications

• Embroidery by Hand

• Eyelet Applications

• Facings

• Godets

• Gussets

• Hand Sewing

• Hems

• Hooks & Eyes

• Interfacing

• Layouts

• Lining

• Loops

• MachineStitching

• Marking

• Overlock Sewing

• Pleats

• Pockets

• Pressing Guidelines

• Quilting

• Ruffles

• Seam Construction

• Types of Seams

• Shoulder Pads

• Sleeves

• Smocking

• Snaps

• Tucks

• Underlining

• Velcro®/ Hook-and-Loop Tape

• Vents

• Waistbands

• Yokes

• Zippers

$24.95 • $29.95 CANADA

$24.95 • $29.95 CANADA

P R I N T E D I N C H I N A

sixthandspringbooks.com

ISBN 978-1936096275

9 7 8 1 9 3 6 0 9 6 2 7 5

5 2 4 9 5ISBN 978-1936096275

V/Butterick Sewing_cover_FINAL:Layout 1 12/5/12 4:58 PM Page 1

The Vogue®/Butterick

Step-by-Step Guide to

sewingtechniques

The Vogue®/Butterick

Step-by-Step Guide to

sewingtechniquesAn Illustrated A-to-Z Sourcebook for Every Home Sewer

The Editors of Vogue® and Butterick Patterns

New York

Artwork and text © 1989 by Butterick CompanyAdditional artwork and text copyright © 2013 by Sixth&Spring Books

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by anymeans—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or informationstorage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

The written instructions and artworks are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retailpurchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form forcommercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy patterns for the personal use of the retailpurchaser.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

The Vogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques : An Illustrated A-to-Z Sourcebookfor Every Home Sewer / The Editors of Vogue® and Butterick Patterns. — Revised Edition.

pages cmIncludes index.ISBN: 978-1-936096-27-51. Sewing. I. Butterick Company.TT705.V64 2013646.4—dc23

2012042899

Manufactured in China

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

First Edition 1989

This Revised Edition 2013

Sixth&Spring Books161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013

First Edition

Executive EditorPATRICIA PERRY

Editor-in-ChiefJANET DU BANE

IllustrationsCYNTHIA NGAI

Project DirectorMARTHA K. MORAN

2013 Edition

Editorial DirectorJOY AQUILINO

Developmental EditorLISA SILVERMAN

EditorBETH BAUMGARTEL

IllustrationsMARGEAU SOBOTISTABILIMENTA DESIGN

Layout and DesignARETA BUKJACKIE KERR

Sixth&Spring Books

Vice President, PublisherTRISHA MALCOLM

Creative DirectorJOE VIOR

Production ManagerDAVID JOINNIDES

PresidentART JOINNIDES

Contents

Introduction: How to Use This Book 9

Appliqués 11–17Transferring Designs 11Preparing Appliqués 13Positioning Appliqués 15Sewing Appliqués by Hand 15Sewing Appliqués by Machine 16Fusing Appliqués 17

Fabric Bands 18–34 Bands for Garment Openings 18 Neck Bands 28

Basting 35–37 Basting Guidelines 35Hand Basting 35Machine Basting 36Other Basting Methods 37

Fabric Belts, Buckles & Belt Carriers 38–49

Making Fabric Belts/Sashes 38Attaching Belt Buckles to Fabric

Belts 42Making Fabric Belt Carriers/Belt

Loops 43Attaching Fabric Belt Carriers 45Making and Attaching Thread Belt

Carriers 47

Bias Binding 50–60 Making Bias Binding 50Applying Double or French Binding—

Hand Finished 52Applying Single Binding—Hand

Finished 53Applying Single Binding—Machine

Finished 54Special Binding Techniques 55

Buttonholes & Buttons 61–71 Buttonhole Preparation 61Machine-Worked Buttonholes 64Hand-Worked Buttonholes 64Two-Piece Bound Buttonhole 66Button Size and Placement

Guidelines 69Attaching Buttons 70Reinforcing Buttons 71

Casings 72–77Drawstring Openings 72Applied Casings 74Casing in a Seam Allowance 75Self-Fabric Casing 77

Collars 78–104Rolled Collars: Band, Notched, and

Shawl 79Flat Collars 97Stand Collars 99

Cuffs 105–115Preparing the Lower Edge 105Band Cuff with Opening 106Barrel Cuff 112Turned-Back Cuff 113Rib Knit Cuff 114Cuff Link Buttons 115

Cutting Basics 116

Darts 117–119Sewing All Darts 117Trimming and Clipping Darts 118Pressing Darts 119

Drawstrings 120With Elastic 120

Edge & Seam Finishes121–123

Knit Fabric Edge Finishes 121Woven Fabric Edge Finishes 122

Elastic Applications 124–125Applying Elastic at an Edge 124Applying Elastic Away from an

Edge 125

Embroidery by Hand 126–132 Threads 126Embroidery Needles 126Embroidery Hoops 127Starting, Ending and Finishing 127Embroidery Stitches 129

Eyelet Applications 133Hand-Worked Eyelets 133Metal Eyelets 133

Facings 134–155 Armhole Facings 134Neckline Facings 140Neck and Armhole Facings 147Front Facings 151Waistline Facings 153

Godets 156–157In a Seam 156In a Slash 157

Gussets 158

Hand Sewing 159–165 Hand Sewing Guidelines 159Beginning Hand Stitching Knot 159Ending Hand Stitching 160Hand Sewing Stitches 161

Hems 166–177 Measuring Hems 166Interfacing Hems 167Standard 1-inch to 3-inch

(1.5cm to 7.5cm) Hems 168Narrow Hems 169Hem Variations 171

Hooks & Eyes 178–179 Attaching Hooks and Eyes to Edges

That Meet 178Attaching Hooks and Eyes to Edges

That Overlap 178

Interfacing 180–187Choosing Interfacing 180Where to Interface 181Working with Fusible Interfacing 183Working with Sew-In Interfacing 186

Layouts 188–198Layouts: Fabric Preparation 188Understanding Layout Options and

Terms 191Preparing and Laying Out the

Pattern 194

Lining 199–205Lining a Back Pleat 199Lining a Back Vent 200Inserting Jacket Lining by Hand 201Inserting Jacket Lining by

Machine 204

Loops 206–210Making Tubing for Fabric Loops 206Attaching Loops 207Frogs 209Dress Hanger Loops 209Thread Loops 210

Machine Stitching 211–217Basic Machine Stitches 211Specialty Machine Stitches 216

Marking 218–222Marking with Clips into the Seam

Allowance 218Pin Marking 218Thread Marking 219Marking with Disappearing Marking

Pen/Tailor’s Chalk/Chalk Pencil 221Marking with Dressmaker’s Carbon

Paper and Tracing Wheel 222

Overlock Sewing 223–236Basic Functional Overlock

Stitches 223Overlock Seams and Seam

Finishing 225

Handling Corners and Curves withOverlock 229

Overlock Hems 231Attaching Elastic and Trim with

Overlock 233Making Overlock Loops and

Straps 235

Pleats 237–244Marking Pleats 238Pressing Pleats 238Knife/Straight Pleats 239Box Pleats 240Inverted Pleats 241

Pockets 245–260Patch Pockets 245Mock Flap Pockets 253Side Seam Pockets 255Side-Front Slanted Pockets 257Welt Pockets 258Mock Welt Pockets 260

Pressing Guidelines 261–268Pressing Tools 261How to Press 263Pressing Special Fabrics 267

Quilting 269–274Quilting Basics 269Machine Quilting 270Corded Quilting 272Trapunto Quilting 273

Ruffles 275–283Straight Ruffle, Double Layer 275Straight Ruffle, Single Layer 278Circular Ruffle, Double Layer 281Circular Ruffle, Single Layer 283

Seam Construction 284–290Preparing to Stitch 284Stitching a Seam 286Keeping Seams Flat 289

Types of Seams 291–299Special Seam Situations 291Decorative Seams 296Self-Finished (Enclosed) Seams 298

Shoulder Pads 300–304Types of Shoulder Pads 300Covering Shoulder Pads 301Attaching Shoulder Pads 302

Sleeves 305–315Set-In Sleeves 305Kimono Sleeve 310Raglan Sleeves 312

Smocking 316–326Fabrics and Notions 316Adding a Smocked Insert 316Marking 316Pre-Gathering 317Smocking Stitches 318

Snaps 327–329Sew-On Snaps 327Gripper Snaps 329

Tucks 330–335Marking and Basting 330Stitching Tucks 331Pressing Tucks 331Types of Tucks 332

Underlining 336–337Cutting 336Marking and Basting 336Stitching Underlining Seams 337Darts 337

Velcro®/Hook-and-Loop Tape338

Sew-On Velcro 338Iron-On Velcro 338

Vents 339–345Lined Jackets, Skirts, or

Dresses 339Unlined Jackets, Skirts, or

Dresses 340Vents for Sleeves 341

Waistbands 346–357Elasticized Waistbands 346One-Piece, Non-Elastic

Waistbands 352Two-Piece, Non-Elastic Waistband

(Faced) 357

Yokes 358–360Back/Shoulder Yokes 358

Zippers 361–370Guidelines 361Applications: Centered, Lapped,

Mock Fly and Separating 364

Useful Information 371

Index 372–383

How to Use This Book 9

The Vogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guideto Sewing Techniques provides quickaccess to the most frequently used andpopular sewing procedures found inVogue® and Butterick Patterns. Theexperts at Vogue®/Butterick originallycreated this guide in 1989, and since thenit has been continuously in print and hasbecome a classic bestseller and must-haveresource for sewers. The authors selectedmore than 500 of the most essentialmethods and techniques out of morethan 2,000 standard dressmaking andtailoring procedures used in theVogue®/Butterick patterns. And this newedition has been revised and updated toreflect the latest sewing trends andtechniques, bringing to your library thesame authority as the original.

The Table of Contents lists 47 broadsewing technique categories alphabetically,from “Appliqués” to “Zippers,” along withthe essential techniques therein. Underthe “Pockets” section, for example, you’llfind Mock Flap, Mock Welt, Patch, SideSeam, Side-Front Slanted, and Weltpockets. Since we give you severalvariations for most procedures, the indexprovides a much more detailed listing. Ifyou look under “Patch Pockets,” you’llfind these variations: lined, self-faced,self-faced and top-stitched, self-lined,slanted edge, and self-flap.

Each technique is presented in a detailed,illustrated step-by-step format, frombeginning to completion. Whenfundamental preparatory steps arecommon to several techniques, thesesteps have been organized into anintroductory “Basics” section. The step-by-step illustrations have the right side ofthe fabric shaded for easy identification.In some cases, part of an illustration isenlarged and circled so that fine detailscan be seen clearly. When garmentsections are machine-stitched, thestitching is shown in the direction itwould be stitched on your machine;thread ends are always shown at the endof the stitching, not at the beginning.

Vogue®/Butterick Sewing vocabularyterms recur throughout this book. Theseterms refer to very basic procedures everysewer needs to know to follow andexecute sewing instructions. Each term isdefined and illustrated.

Vocabulary terms are not defined at eachuse in an instruction, but you will find ahelpful page reference in parentheses. Forinstance, the Flat Collar instructions say:“Apply interfacing (pages 180–187) tothe wrong side of one collar section.” Theaccompanying illustration may show thisprocedure in one step, but if you don’tknow how to interface, you’ll find

How to Use This Book

10 How to Use This Book

complete step-by-step instructions on thereferenced pages.

Every set of instructions focuses on aspecific garment area or technique. Toavoid unnecessary repetition, clearreferences are made to other sections ofthe book for recurring preliminary orending steps. For instance, since there are several options for finishing a sleevelower edge, you would be referred to“Casings,” “Cuffs,” or “Hems.” In some cases, such as the finishingvariations of Edgestitching, Topstitching,or Edgestitching and Topstitching,

references may direct you to anothertechnique within the same section.

For example, there are two separatetechniques for making a Flat Collar, butthe edge finishes are the same in eachtechnique. The second Flat Collartechnique refers you to the first Flat Collar for the illustrated edge finish.

The Vogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guideto Sewing Techniques will be useful anytime you sew: in using patterns, alteringor repairing garments, or even creatingyour own designs.

Appliqués 11

AppliquésLayering shaped fabrics is a great way to put your perfectly good fabric scrapsto use while creating color, texture, and design interest. Appliqué designs aresold in books, as individual templates, or as part of a pattern, or you can simplycreate your own.

Transferring Designs

There are several ways to transfer anappliqué design from paper to fabric,including using a template, dressmaker’scarbon paper, fusible web, and heattransfer.

Once you’ve transferred the design, decidehow you are going to apply it before youcut it out. If you want a smooth edge,you’ll need to add 1⁄4" (6mm) seamallowance to the design, so you can foldthe raw edge under before stitching. You’llalso need seam allowance if you intend to make a lined appliqué. If you intend tozigzag or blanket stitch the appliqué inplace, you don’t need seam allowance.

Template

You can purchase or make a template. To make a template, simply trace thedesign onto card stock or cardboard andcarefully cut around the traced lines. Totransfer the design onto the fabric, tracearound the template on the right side ofthe appliqué fabric. You can use atemplate multiple times.

Dressmaker's Carbon Paper

Position the colored side of dressmaker’scarbon paper on the right side of theappliqué fabric and mark the design witha pencil or tracing wheel. This method,like the template method, allows you touse the same design multiple times.

TIP If you are using white or very light-colored threads and/or fabrics, transferthe design using white dressmaker’scarbon paper.

12 Appliqués

Paper-Backed Fusible Web

Before tracing the design onto fusible web,check to see if the design is symmetrical(i.e. different right and left sides, such asletters). If the design is symmetrical, youcan simply trace the design directly on thepaper side of the fusible web. If the designor pattern is asymmetrical, then you shouldtrace it onto tracing paper. Then turn thetracing paper over to copy it (wrong sideup) onto the paper side of the fusible web.If you don’t do this, the asymmetricaldesign will appear in reverse on the fabric.

1Trace the design directly onto the paper backing (smooth side), but

don’t cut out the design on the designlines.

2Place the fusible side of paper-backed fusible web against the wrong side of

the chosen appliqué fabric. Fuse, follow -ing the manufacturer's instructions, andthen cut the appliqué fabric and webtogether along the design lines.

TIP Be sure to use a press cloth largerthan the appliqué to avoid getting thefusible product on your iron.

Heat Transfers

Heat transfers are included in somepatterns and are often sold in books.They can usually be used only once andcome with complete transfer instructions.As a general rule, you’ll need an iron andpress cloth. Simply position the transfer,design side down, on the appliqué fabric.With the press cloth over the transfer,apply heat and pressure to transfer thedesign lines directly on the appliquéfabric. Before lifting the transfer off,check a corner to be sure the design linestransferred completely.

Asymmetric

Symmetric

Choosing Interfacing

Type

Interfacing is available in a variety of fibers,weights and crispness, however the twoapplication methods are used to categorizeinterfacing; sew-in or fusible interfacing.

Sew-in interfacing is hand- or machinebasted to the wrong side of the garment piece.

Fusible interfacing has a resin coating onone side that fuses to the wrong side ofthe garment with the application of heat,moisture and pressure.

Construction

Interfacings are constructed in one ofthree ways: woven, non-woven or knit.The package or bolt that holds theinterfacing will indicate the fiber contentand construction method, and will havedetailed application instructions.

Woven interfacing has a grainline andshould be cut on the straight grain, or on the bias for softer shaping in collarsand hemlines.

180 Interfacing

InterfacingInterfacing is used to maintain the shape of garment details, particularlygarment edges (necklines, front openings), cuffs, pockets, collars, andwaistbands. Almost all garments require some interfacing. Tailored garmentsare always interfaced, however even a simple knit T-shirt benefits frominterfacing at the neck edge to prevent stretching.

Nonwoven interfacing has no grainlineand can be applied in any direction to the garment.

Knitted interfacing has lengthwisestability and crosswise stretch to mimicthe characteristics of knitted fabrics.

Selection

In addition to the application method and construction of the interfacing, theweight and/or crispness of the interfacingmust complement the fabric. The careinstructions of the fabric and interfacingmust be the same as well. In general theinterfacing should not be heavier than the garment fabric. Hold the interfacingtogether with the fabric and roll andshape the two layers together to checkthat you like the crispness and shape.

Sheer or featherweight: Use onlightweight woven and knitted fabrics

Lightweight: Use on dress weight fabrics

Medium weight: Use on suiting andmedium to heavyweight fabrics

Heavyweight: Use on accessories and crafts

Interfacing 181

Where to Interface

The area to be interfaced depends on thestyle of the garment and whether theinterfacing being used is fusible or sew-in.

Fusible

Always apply fusible interfacing to thefacing sections, rather than garmentsections, and interface the following areas:

• Front and/or back garment openings

• Front and back neckline facings

• Upper collars of dresses, blouses,tailored jackets, coats

• Entire waistband or cuff

Pockets 245

Patch Pockets

Both decorative and functional, patchpockets come in wide variety of shapesand sizes and can be constructed in manydifferent ways.

Lined with Lining Fabric

If the pocket fabric is lightweight, you can use it as lining, otherwise lining fabricmakes a nice finish for a medium- toheavyweight fabric pocket.

1With the right sides together, stitch thepocket lining to the upper edge of the

pocket, leaving an opening. (The liningpiece is smaller than the pocket piece.)

PocketsPatch pockets and interior pockets are the two general categories into whichmost pockets fall. Patch pockets are made of matching or decorative fabric and are applied directly onto the right side of a garment or project. Interiorpockets are made of lining or lightweight fabric and are caught within a seamor slash and are sometimes covered by a flap or welt that shows on the rightside of the garment.

2Press the seam toward the lining. Foldthe seamed piece with the right sides

together so all edges align. Stitch thesides and lower edge.

3Trim the seam allowance, trimming diagonally across the corners.

246 Pockets

4Turn the pocket right side out through the opening in the upper edge seam;

press. Slipstitch the opening closed.

5Leave the upper edge of the pocket plain or finish it in one of the

following ways:

6Pin the pocket to the garment along the placement lines indicated on the

pattern, matching the symbols or whereveryou want. Use one of the followingmethods to secure the pocket along thesides and lower edges, reinforcing theupper edges with stitching, if desired:

Edgestitch

Topstitch

Edgestitch and topstitch

Reinforced upper edge

Edgestitch only

Topstitch only

316 Smocking

Fabrics and Notions

• Select any fabric that is lightweight andgathers easily, such as batiste, gingham,chambray, challis, broadcloth, crepe deChine, dotted swiss, muslin, or percale.

• Use two or three strands of six-strandembroidery floss, depending on thefineness of the fabric.

• Embroider smocking stitches with a #7 or #8 crewel needle.

Adding a SmockedInsert

To add a smocked insert to a garmentthat does not have one as a designfeature on the pattern, allow 3" (7.5cm)of flat fabric for every 1" (25mm) offinished smocking.

1Determine the desired length andwidth of the finished insert.

2Cut the fabric equal in depth to the finished insert plus two seam allowances,

and equal in length to three times thefinished insert plus two seam allowances.For example, to make a 10" (25cm) long x 5" (12.5cm)-deep smocked section,cut the fabric 30" + 11⁄4" (76cm + 3.2cm)by 5" + 11⁄4" (12.5cm + 3.2cm).

Marking

If the pattern includes smocking, transferdots are provided. If you are designingyour own smocking, sheets of transfer dotsmay be purchased in many needle workand fabric stores. Sheets of transfer dotsallow you to evenly, and in parallel rows,transfer rows of evenly-spaced dots on thewrong side of fabric to act as guidelinesfor smocking stitches and pleats.

1When transferring dots to fabric,follow the manufacturer's directions

carefully and make a test sample first.

2Transfer the dots onto the wrong side of the fabric so the rows are parallel

to the lengthwise and crosswise grain ofthe fabric. This guarantees that thefinished smocking will fall into even,graceful folds.

SmockingSmocking is created by hand-stitching in a specific and decorative pattern directly on the right side of a cluster of accordion-like folds. Patternswith smocking details already include the fullness and markings needed to create the pleats.

Smocking 317

3Pull up on all the threads at one time, forming straight, close, even pleats.

Pull the threads until the fabric section isequal to the desired finished size (plusseam allowances) or the size indicated inthe pattern instructions. Securely knoteach thread end.

4 Place the fabric on a flat surface and smooth the pleats so they are evenly

spaced. Hold the iron slightly above thefabric and steam the pleats, never restingthe iron on the fabric. Let the pleatedfabric dry thoroughly before embroidering.

Pre-Gathering

Use rows of running stitches (page 164)to connect the dots and draw the fabricup into evenly spaced pleats. For eachrow of running stitches, use two strandsof contrasting thread, or one strand ofheavy-duty thread. Once the pleats areformed, the sewing lines provide a guidefor the rows of embroidery stitches.When the embroidery stitches arecompleted and the smocked section hasbeen stitched to the rest of the garment,remove the running stitches.

1Because it cannot be joined in themiddle, the thread must be long

enough to complete each row of stitches.Knot the thread end before beginning.

2Working on the wrong side of the fabric and starting at the end of one

horizontal row of dots, insert the needleinto the fabric just before the first dot.Bring the needle out of the fabric at theother side of the dot, picking up just afew threads of fabric. Work across theentire row, so that long running stitchesform between dots. Repeat for theremaining horizontal rows of dots. Leave long thread ends.

Zippers 361

• Use anadjustablezipper foot thatpermits machine-stitching oneither side ofthe zipperwithout turningthe fabric.

• Always close the zipper beforelaundering or dry cleaning the garment.

Shortening

If you can’t find the right length zipper,buy one longer than required and shortenit. To shorten a zipper, you need to makea new zipper stop. Place the zipper alongthe opening edge to determine the correctlength. On the zipper, mark the desiredplacement of thenew zipper stop.Whipstitch (page165) across thezipper teeth atthe marking. Cutthe zipper 3⁄4"(20mm) belowthe new stop.

Guidelines

A bit of zipper knowledge makes applyinga zipper that much easier.

Preparation

• Choose the weight and type of zipperbased on the weight of the fabric.

• Preshrink any zippers that have cotton tape and will be applied inwashable items.

• Close the zipper and press out thepackaging creases before application.When pressing a garment with a zipper,press on the right side of the garment,use a press cloth to prevent anyunsightly shine, puckers or impressions.

• Staystitch (page 214) the seamallowances of the zipper opening edges directionally.

• Stay (page 288) bias seams or stretchyfabrics before applying the zipper.

• Match the design of plaids, stripes, etc.at the zipper closing by slip-basting(page 165) the seam edges together.

• Always pin the zipper from the topdownward.

ZippersZippers are available in a variety of colors, lengths, weights, and types for all sortsof garment closings. Choose a zipper based on the application method you willuse and the weight of the fabric. The standard, conventional zipper is suitablefor most fabric weights and most applications. Separating zippers, invisiblezippers and heavy-duty zippers are considered specialty zippers.

362 Zippers

Basting

It is always a good idea to baste thezipper to the garment before stitching it in place. There are several ways to do this. Baste the seam closed first.

Thread Baste

Hand- or machine-baste along the center of the zipper tape (both sides of the zipper).

Basting or Transparent Tape

Place pieces of basting or transparentcellophane tape on the edges of thezipper tape and finger-press the zipper in position on the seam allowances.

Basting Tape

Use basting tape or a glue stick to secure the edges of the zipper to theseam allowances.

Stitching Guides

Use one of the following methods tocreate a stitching guide to follow for finalstitching on the outside of the garment.

• Position transparent cellophane tape the width of the final stitching over oralong the basted seam, according to thespecific zipper application. Follow theedge of the tape when stitching.

The ultimate guide to fashion sewinggets a new look with this fully revisedand updated edition. A bestsellersince its introduction in 1970, VogueSewing covers everything sewersneed to know to create fashionable,professional-quality clothing—fromfabric selection and constructionbasics to advanced patternalterations and couture techniques.

Inside you’ll find:• Info on the newest equipment,notions, fabrics, linings, and supplies• Color charts, step-by-stepillustrations, and timesaving tips• Instructions on taking yourmeasurements and adjustingpatterns for a perfect fit

This new, completely redesignededition stays true to the classicoriginal while bringing it up-to-date.With answers and inspiration forevery skill level, it’s the premiereguidebook for a whole newgeneration of sewers!

460 pages • paperback978-1-933027-00-5Available wherever books are sold

Also from Sixth&Spring Books

revised and updated

Vogue Sewing

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T H E E D I T O R S O F V O G U E® A N D B U T T E R I C K P A T T E R N S

T H E E D I T O R S O F V O G U E® A N D B U T T E R I C K P A T T E R N S

REVISED & UPDATED EDITION

Vogue® ●ButterickStep-by-Step Vogue®

●ButterickStep-by-Step

GUIDETOSEWINGTechniques

GUIDETOSEWINGTechniques

Vogue®

●Butterick

Step-by-Step

GU

IDE

TOSEW

ING

TEC

HN

IQU

ES

In this newly revised and updated edition of the classic bestseller, the experts at

Vogue® and Butterick Patterns have createdthe ultimate reference for every homesewer. More than 500 essential sewingtechniques are covered in alphabetical

sections—from Appliqués to Zippers, andeverything in between.

With detailed, illustrated step-by-stepinstructions, including updates to reflect the

latest in trends and techniques, theVogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide toSewing Techniques is an essential part of

every modern sewer’s library.

For more than 100 years, the editors at Vogue® and Butterick Patterns have

provided high-quality patterns forhome sewing. They originally createdthis guide in 1989, and since then ithas been continuously in print and

has become a classic bestseller.

C R A F T S S E W I N G

An Illustrated A-to-Z Sourcebookfor Every Home Sewer

Now in a newly revised and updated edition, the Vogue®/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to SewingTechniques is a must-have reference that should be within easy reach of any sewer—novice or

expert. The editors of Vogue® and Butterick Patterns present 500 fundamental and frequently usedsewing techniques in clearly written step-by-step text, accompanied by illustrations.

The 47 topics are arranged alphabetically:

• Appliqués

• Fabric Bands

• Basting

• Fabric Belts,Buckles & Belt Carriers

• Bias Binding

• Buttonholes & Buttons

• Casings

• Collars

• Cuffs

• Cutting Basics

• Darts

• Drawstrings

• Edge & Seam Finishes

• Elastic Applications

• Embroidery by Hand

• Eyelet Applications

• Facings

• Godets

• Gussets

• Hand Sewing

• Hems

• Hooks & Eyes

• Interfacing

• Layouts

• Lining

• Loops

• MachineStitching

• Marking

• Overlock Sewing

• Pleats

• Pockets

• Pressing Guidelines

• Quilting

• Ruffles

• Seam Construction

• Types of Seams

• Shoulder Pads

• Sleeves

• Smocking

• Snaps

• Tucks

• Underlining

• Velcro®/ Hook-and-Loop Tape

• Vents

• Waistbands

• Yokes

• Zippers

$24.95 • $29.95 CANADA

$24.95 • $29.95 CANADA

P R I N T E D I N C H I N A

sixthandspringbooks.com

ISBN 978-1936096275

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5 2 4 9 5ISBN 978-1936096275

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