v i s i t &d i s c o v e r

The occupation of the site goes back to the Neolithic (around 6500 years BCE) but “Burgus” (the Latin name of Bourg-en-Bresse) entered the history books with the Celtic invasion; druids raised more than 300 standing stones on a hill at the junction of two water sources : the Reyssouze and the Cône rivers.

Later, the Romans fortified the area (the construction of a small fort) as they considered the area strategically important ; it allowed access to the “capital of the Three Gauls”: Lugdunum (Lyon).

In the 10th century the lords of Bâgé, sovereigns of Bresse, built a lordly dwelling which later became one of the homes of the Counts of Savoy, through the marriage of Sibylle of Bâgé to Count Amédée V in 1272. Apparently destroyed at the beginning of the 17th

century, the site is now occupied by the old prison (1816).

Meanwhile, half a league away, a village of farmers and potters began to develop during the Celtic period occupying a place known today as Brou. Later, the Romans built a temple there. At the beginning of the 10th century, the bishop of Mâcon, Gérard, became a hermit there, thereby sanctifying the area which soon saw the construction of its first churches.

The distinction between civilian and religious life was very clear in ancient Bourg-en-Bresse. Brou is now a district

of the city and is renowned for its monastery, built in the 16th century by Marguerite of Austria, widow of Philibert II of Savoy.

At a crossroads and on a border, Bourg-en-Bresse reinforced its fortifications (construction of a citadel in the 16th century) and its notoriety grew thanks to trade and the quality of its craftsmanship (leather and canvas). Coins were minted, justice was handed down and buildings multiplied: convents, church of Our Lady (Notre-Dame), and rich tradesmen’s’ houses.

In 1601, the treaty of Lyon between Henri IV and Charles-Emmanuel of Savoy meant that the Bresse region joined the kingdom of France.

This expansion continued throughout the 18th century and the Industrial revolution (19th century) : the city filled with rich men’s’ mansions, a beautiful hospital, the prefecture and a savings bank ; the railway arrived in 1856.

Bourg-en-Bresse, prefecture and industrial city (wire-mills, metallurgy and mechanical construction) now boasts 41 000 inhabitants (known as Burgiens) and is the driving force of a population centre of 15 communities.

We now invite you to enter the heart of the Burgien city… Have a good visit!

Oh, by the way! To blend in with the natives, pronounce it Bourk-on-Bress!

A LITTLE HISTORY …

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The Tourist office can be found in avenue Alsace Lorraine; this major axis in the Haussmann style (19th century architect famous for the Parisian boulevards) shows the development and prosperity of the city at the end of the 19th century after the arrival of the railway.

Go to your right around what is now the Albert Camus cultural centre (formerly the Post Office 1896-97).

Rue Lalande: as you pass in front of the protestant temple (1898) notice the bell tower (unusual on this type of temple). A little further on you will find a recently restored 15th century house. See Rotary club plaque.

As you enter the Rue du Palais you will find a medieval tiered house dating from 1425 , proof of the wealth of Burgien tradesmen in the Middle Ages, in this case the Guyot brothers, master drapers. A century later the house belonged to another local wealthy family, the Gorrevod. See Rotary Club Plaque.

Shown in pink on the central map.

Some of our heritage monuments have a marble plaque showing the coats of arms ofthe city and of the International Rotary Club. The additional information found there will enhance your visit of Bourg-en-Bresse.

Rue Bourgmayer: You will see an interesting architectural evolution to your right: a 16th century house with mullioned windows, two 18th century frontages (with the owner’s monogram in the ironwork) and an artdeco house from the 1920s (at N° 6).

At n°13 is the 18th C Loras mansion and its beautiful regency frontage (first half of the 18th C). This was the house of Emilien Cabuchet (a sculptor renowned for his religious works, particularly the statue of the Priest of Ars), also of the well known illustrator Gustave Doré, from the age of 11 to 15 years, and Albert Lagrange, who founded the Jerusalem Biblical school in 1890. See Rotary club plaque.

On your left, the rue des Marronniers has several fine examples of tiered houses from the 15th and 16th century. Notice the laths and studs on the first house which would have allowed the house to be covered in daub.

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LITTLE STORIES OF OUR HISTORY

Circuit n°1Journey through the centuries ...

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Gorrevod residence

Rue des Marronniers

Avenue Alsace-Lorraine

On your right rises a sentinel tower a medieval watchtower (restored in 1627) reminding you of the city fortifications. You are on a stretch of the ancient Guard’s Walkway. See Rotary Club Plaque. Over the road a 17th century statue of the Virgin Mary protected the well just below, the well was once equipped with a pump (and hence the name of the street "Pompe Bourgmayer").

You are now in place des Lices , on the hill colonised by the first inhabitants of Bourg-en-Bresse. This is where the Celts raised their standing stones which were later used by the Romans to build a small fort and then by the lords of Bâgé for lordly dwelling (site of the old prison on your right: in the base of the walls you can see large grey limestone blocks which are none other than the standing stones, recycled over and over throughout the centuries!). The name “Place des Lices” is a reminder that this square was, among other things, used for medieval tournaments.

Take a look at the Centre Thérèse Sommier, previously a mansion owned by the Chossat de Montburon familytax collector in the 18th century.

Come to the Place de la Grenette via the Montée du Bastion. On your left you can see the characteristic silhouette of the old stronghold, remains of the 16th century fortifications. On the Grenette esplanade rises the imposing neo-classical (1899) building, built by Tony Ferret to house the grain market : it is now home to the

community hall and a cinema.

Next door, the theatre dates from the same period. Your attention is drawn to the columns on the facade, as well as the masks and the muses of Music and Comedy. Rotary Club Plaque.

Take rue Bichat to get to the Town Hall.

On the right hand side of the road: an 18th century mansion that belonged to the Riboud family; it was home to the Prefecture between 1800 and 1856, and Napoleon 1st was a guest here in 1805, on his way to Italy to be crowned king.

You have now come to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville: the building, constructed in 1771, has a pediment embellished with a blazon containing the Bourg-en-Bresse coat of arms, on which you can see the trefoil cross of the Savoy.

Xavier Bichat, a famous doctor,was born in the Ain Departmentin 1771. He worked in the Bourg-

en-Bresse hospital. A pioneer of modern anatomy he was the originator of huge advances in medical science in a career that was only 11 years long! His name has been given to a famous hospital in Paris.

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Sentinel tower and tiered house

Place de la Grenette

Town hall

See Rotary Club Plaque.

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The mansion next door built in 1730, belonged to the rich Bohan family. See Rotary Club Plaque. Its last occupant, François-Philibert Loubat de Bohan was a talented cavalry officer who inspired Napoleon to use cavalry in his battles. The first riding school in Bourg-en-Bresse came into being thanks to his passion for horses ; today it is home to the International Bourg-en-Bresse show jumping competition ****.

At n° 7 Rue Notre-Dame, a plaque indicates the birthplace of François Piquet (1708-1781), a missionary with the Iroquois, he fought alongside the Indians for the conservation of Canada by the French.

The collegiate co-cathedral Notre-Dame (co-cathedral because it is the second seat of the Bishop). Construction began in 1505, on the site of a roman pilgrimage chapel, and it was only finished in 1696. The bell tower, decapitated in the “Reign of Terror”, was rebuilt in tempered concrete by Tony Ferret, between 1911 and 1913. See Rotary Club Plaque.

Inside: a statue of a black Virgin, within a neo-gothic alter, shows the importance of the cult to Mary since the 13th century.

Don’t miss : the miraculous painting, the choir stalls (1511-19), the magnificent vaulted roof over the choir, the stained glass window showing Saint-Crépin and Saint-Crépinien, patron saints of cobblers (1530), the triptych by Nicolas Chichon (1523), the pulpit (1760) showing the four Evangelists and archangel Michael killing the dragon, and the organs (17th century). For more information, please read the notices provided by the parish.

At the corner of Rue Gambetta and Rue Victor Basch, a lovely timber framed house dating from 1496, was the Hugon residence , and the ground floor still has the structure of a medieval shop.

Rue Victor Basch (previously Rue du Gouvernement) is one of the most interesting in the old town. At n°5, look up and take in the charming half moon ironwork dating from the 17th C ; at n°12, a stone and brick frontage dating from the 16th century with mullioned windows ; opposite, a mural created in 1990 by the Cité de la Création from Lyon ; at n°22-24, a timbered and tiered house, this was a mint in the 15th century ; and at n°21, the old Government mansion, eat of power in the Bresse region during the Savoy reign. See Rotary Club Plaque.

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Co-cathedral Notre-Dame

Hugon residence

The black Virgin statue

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On the corner of Rue de la République, at n°30, a lovely 16th century house which has retained its mullioned windows and three pedestals which would have held statues.

Go back towards the Jacobins Gate and enter Rue Jules Migonney, an orientalist painter born at n° 11 of this street.

On the right side of the Rue du Lycée, you will find the Lalande College, once a Jesuit College, and its chapel . See Rotary Club Plaque.

Place Edgar Quinet

In the centre of the square, the "Fountain of the four roads" by Ivan Avoscan, created in 1989.

The Jacobins Gate : built in 1497, it marked one of the three monumental entrances to the old Dominican (also known as Jacobins) Convent, which was founded in 1414 by Amédée VIII of Savoy and dismantled at the time of the revolution. See Rotary Club Plaque.Further along you can see some 15th century tiered houses that would have belonged to weavers.

Going along Rue de la République, you will find the impasse Littré on your right and its row of medieval houses (15th century). Look to your right, at n°2, a narrow house, with a gable window and pulley; it is apparently the oldest house in Bourg-en-Bresse (possibly 14th century).

Born in Bourg-en-Bresse, Jérôme Lalande (1732-1807) is a prominent astronomer of the

18th century. He wrote nearly 250 articles about astronomy and measurements for the "Encyclopedia" of Diderot and d'Alembert, made a memorable work on the orbit of Venus, and even published a treatise in hydrology which is still used.

Member of the Academy of Sciences, he was the director of the observatory of Paris and has hold the chair of astronomy at the Collège de France for nearly 45 years.

He took part in the creation of the Republican calendar and the Bureau des Longitudes. In Bourg-en-Bresse, he created the Society of Emulation of Ain in 1755 (that still exists), built an observatory (see p21) and installed a number of sundials in the city including the one of the Town Hall. His name is inscribed on the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

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The author, philosopher, historian and deputy, native of Bourg-en-Bresse (1803-1875), was a great

republican. He was the initiator of the secularity of the French school system and also of public education for girls. One of the colleges in the city is named in his memory.

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The Jacobins gate

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Jules Migonney (1876-1929)studied art in Lyon and Paris, where he met the Fauves, the

painter born in Bourg-en-Bresse went into exile in Algeria where he developed his own style. He painted a realistic, sincere and sensual East, inspired by the lives of urban and rural populations in the country. The Museum of Brou in Bourg-en-Bresse exhibits many works of the artist.

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The impressive stone entrance is up against an unfinished facade. The interior is a remarkable example of the Jesuit “baroque style”.

After the chapel, on the door to the old college you can make out a Latin inscription which means “for religion and virtue”. A harbour for the resistance during the occupation the school received the Resistance Medal in 1946.

Opposite, you can see the facade of the school and college of Saint-Joseph and their chapel (1841-1857), built on the site of that of the Jacobins.

Retrace your steps and turn left at the corner. A little further on you will cross Gustave Doré Square.

At n°5 Rue Teynière, the Meillonnas mansion , built in 1774 for Baron Gaspard Marron of Meillonnas (a village 12 km to the north-east of Bourg). Edgar Quinet lived here for part of his childhood.

The facade is embellished with cast iron fretwork balconies in the Louis XV style. The carriage gateway is decorated with sculpted flower bouquets reminiscent of the characteristic designs of Meillonnas pottery. The cultural department of the Town hall is now settled here. See Rotary Club Plaque.

On the right of the mansion you will notice an 18th C statue of the Virgin and at N°11, a facade in the style of Henri II (16th century); the windows have unfortunately lost their mullions.

Leaving Rue Teynière to the right you will find yourself once again in avenue Alsace Lorraine close to the tourist office.

To complete your discovery of Bourg-en-Bresse, we suggest two more visits a few minutes away from the centre.

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Lalande college chapel

The Meillonnas mansion

Born in Strasbourg, Gustave Doré (1832-1883), a well knownillustrator and painter, studied

at the nearby Jesuit College. His first lithographs were printed by Ceyzériat Printers in Bourg when he was only 11 years old. On the death of his father he left Bourg for Paris. The Brou museum contains some of his works.

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Hospital Apothecary Shop

47 boulevard de BrouFree parking on the left or within the grounds of the hospital

Built between 1782 and 1790 following drawings by Pierre-Adrien Pâris, Louis XVI’s architect, this was the city’s hospital from 1790 to 1979.

We invite you to visit the huge and magnificent apothecary shop which still exists.

The apothecary shop is made up of three rooms: the laboratory, the storeroom and the dispensary.

The latter, equipped with superb Louis XV and Louis XVI woodwork, contains a large number of porcelain and tin containers, wooden boxes, and glass jars. Most of these objects still retain their contents intact!

The storeroom contains a library and the books (from the 17th to 20th Cs) are strong evidence of the history of pharmacopoeia.

The laboratory, exceptionally well conserved, is organised around the cast iron furnace and the distilleries.

A journey into the past which won’t leave you indifferent!

Ask at the Tourist Office about opening times and guided tours.www.apothicairerie.bourgenbressetourisme.fr

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Cour de l’hôtel-Dieu

The storeroom

The laboratory

The dispensary

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The royal monastery of Brou

63 boulevard de BrouFree parking behind the church

The highly colourful roof and the extent of the buildings draw the gaze and allow you to imagine the exceptional character of this monument, built in only 26 years!

Designated "Royal" by chroniclers since its construction in the 16th C, this masterpiece was conceived by Marguerite of Austria with three aims: a hymn to love, an act of piety and a gesture of prestige.

Initially destined to the memory of her young husband, Philibert of Savoy whose widow she became at only 24, the Brou monastery became a tomb fit for an emperor when she decided to be buried there too.

Today the buildings are part of our prestigious national heritage and classified among the 100 most beautiful churches in France. Come in and admire one the very few existing jubes in France, stalls, the altarpiece of the Seven Joys of the Virgin, stained glass, and the masterpieces which

are the tombs of Marguerite of Austria, Philibert of Savoy and Marguerite de Bourbon. Three cloisters and a museum of arts will complete pleasantly your visit. In the courtyard the sundial catches your eye; in place since the 16th century, it was restored in the 18th century by Jérôme Lalande.

Behind the monastery, a vast green space is an invitation to amble. You will also find two contemporary sculptures : "Brou" by Michel Gérard (a tribute to the design skills of ancient builders) and "the unknown political prisoner" by Louis Leygue.

The site is open year round except 1st

January, 1st May, 1st and 11th November and 25 December. brou.monuments-nationaux.fr

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La nef

Royal monastery of Brou

Tombs

Green space

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Bourg-en-Bresse / Buellas : 8 km

BUELLASIn medieval Europe, roman art covers a period going from the start of the first millennium (1030 to be precise) until the middle of the 12th century, and corresponds to a period of troubles and instability.

It was the product of a society subjected to a terrifying God and where the Church was the principal material and spiritual force of the times. Roman art is therefore essentially religious and symbolises the growth of the modern Christian West: France became covered with a cloak of churches…

The two most influential religious orders are the Benedictines (the rule of Saint Benoit) and the Cistercians (Rule of Saint-Bernard), having respectively their abbey-churches in Cluny (Burgundy) and Cîteaux (Côte d’Or). Many roman churches of this period are constructed along the same lines as these two abbeys.

The roman style can usually be identified by the form of the arches, the cradle shaped vaults, small openings and modest size.

* : see the index on page 19

Shown in gray on the central map.

Let’s drive to the west of the city to discover five charming Roman churches along a 33 km loop departing from Bourg-en-Bresse.

Ask for the key to the church at the town hall administrative office (Opening hours ; Mon & Tue 9-12, Wed 1.30-5pm, Thur 3-7pm, Fri 9-12.30. Otherwise you may contact Mr & Mrs Perrin (timbered farmhouse opposite the church) – Tel. 04 74 24 20 15

SAINT-MARTIN CHURCH

Placed on a natural mound, this 12th century church dominates the centre of the village. Mentioned as early as 1000 CE, this church was a possession of the Tournus abbey before being joined to the Lyon arch-diocese.

ROMANESQUE ART

Circuit n°2Romanesque churches

Saint-Martin church

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Église de Polliat

Outside

With its construction from river stones, its single-naved floor plan, its height, the decoration of the apse*, and the ancient style of the capitals of the columns supporting the blind arcade within the church, Buellas church is a fine representation of the small roman churches of the area.

Three of the four apertures in the apse* are contemporary to the construction and are representative of primitive roman art; their lintels* are decorated with stylized roses, foliage and twisted ropes. The roof is covered with stone slabs.

The bell tower, which was knocked down during the Reign of Terror, was rebuilt in 1845; its fine spire is covered with varnished tiles.

The lower part of the west face (entrance) is protected by a portico*; some of the wood in this porch has been dated by dendrochronolgy* to 1497. The area surrounding this covered space is paved with ancient gravestones (18th and 19th centuries).

A yellow/beige render, imitating stonework, surrounds the gothic doorway. You can see graffiti done in red ochre which dates from the 15th century (signatures, tracery, steeples or towers crowned with a cross and a fleur de Lys). About 3 metres up the wall you can see the remains of a painted funeral band*.

inside

The apse* takes the form of a blind arcade with seven unequal arches and 8 capitals, in a very antiquated style : they are decorated with roses, palmettes, foliage, confronting birds, little characters, monstrous heads and menacing quadrupeds. The chancel* contains a cupola supported by squinches*.

Furnishings

- Baptismal fonts: a stone basin standing on a massive stand decorated with moulding - 16th century

- Statue of Saint-Martin (I.S.M.H.*) in polychrome and golden wood with gold highlights - 19th century

- Statue of Saint-Roch showing colours from the 16th century. South wall of the nave. Designated a historical monument in 1920.

- The Virgin of Compassion or Piéta*, in colour, early 16th century. North wall of the nave. Designated a historical monument in 1920.

- Statue of Saint-Barthélémy (I.S.M.H.*) from the 16th century (above the entrance). A reminder that the first church in Buellas was dedicated to this saint.

- Virgin with Child wearing a golden metal crown incrusted with fake stones (19th century). The sculpture, however, seems to be older (18th century).

- Large wooden crucified Christ dating from the 18th C at the entrance to the chancel*, above a fake rood beam*.

Portico

Apse

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Buellas / Vandeins : 4,5 km

VANDEINS

The church is open every day from 9am to 5pm (push the door very hard). Printed guides available inside.

SAINT-PIERRE - SAINT-CLAIR CHURCH

Once belonging to the Cluny abbey, this church remains in large part a 12th century building.

Outside

The floor plan of the church is very simple, with no side chapels and no transept*. As with many other bell towers in the Ain, that of Vandeins was destroyed during the Reign of Terror (1793) and restored around 1860.

On the original plans there was a porch, supported by four pillars, which protected the tympanum*, against bad weather; it was condemned in 1750, sold in 1861 and demolished in order to allow the construction of the bell tower. The tympanum*, which has been conserved, was reinserted in the facade.

Protected by a portico*, the semi circular tympanum* shows iconography which is typical to the Burgundy region and more precisely to the Brionnais. Dating from the end of the 12th century it has been listed as a historical monument since 1911.

Christ in his majesty in a mandorla*, held by two angels; below, the Last Supper* and the Washing of feet (on the right) where Peter can easily be recognised thanks to the letter “P”. He is raising his arm to show that his head also needs to be washed (a reference to the Gospel of St John).

Two damaged bas-reliefs can be seen either side of the lintel*: on the left a demon leading the damned (traditional image of the Last Judgement); on the right, the confrontation of the devil with a naked woman brings to mind the temptation of Eve.

Some inscriptions can still be read on the sculptures (from top to bottom) :

On the archivolt* : “OMNIPOTENS BONITAS EXAUDIAT INGREDIENTES ANGE(LU)S EJUS DEI CUSTODIAT EGREDIENTES”, or “that the omnipotent goodness fills those who enter and that the Angel of God protect those who leave”.

On the mandorla*: “BENEDICATE TE DOMINUM MAJESTAS D(OMI)NI”, or “blessed be the Lord, this is the majesty of God”.

At the bottom of the lintel: “AD MENSAM DOMINI (PE)CCATOR Q(U)ANDO P(RO) PINQUAT EXPEDIT UT FRAUDES EX TOTO CORDE RELINQUAT”, or “when the sinner approaches the table of our Lord he must beg forgiveness with all his heart”.

Saint-Pierre Saint-Clair church

Tympanum

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Vandeins / Montracol : 5 km

MONTRACOLinside

The nave is quite large (15,4 m x 7,60 m) compared with neighbouring churches. The ceiling is panelled with small wooden insets and moulded surrounds. The floor is cement.

A low and narrow arched doorway gives onto the sacristy on the south side (to the right). During renovation in 1990, a painted funeral band* was discovered under the render.

A semi-dome apse* decorated with a blind arcade containing five spans and three bays ; the four capitals carry a simple floral decoration.

Furnishings

- Wooden side alters. Above, plaster and wood altarpieces of Saint Clair and the Virgin, with pilasters and pediments in an 18th century style

- Baptismal font: an octagonal basin in pinkish stone, its sides are decorated with trefoils and it stands on a whiter drum base (perhaps that of a previous holy water stoop)

- Statue of Saint-Clair (I.S.M.H.*) in gold covered wood, dating to the end of the 18th century

- Statue of a Virgin with Child (I.S.M.H.*) in white and gold wood dating from the end of the 18th century

- possibly 16th century, found in the presbytery attics, restored and mounted on the rood beam* in 1991

- Painting "Gift of the rosary to Saint-Dominique and Sainte-Catherine of Sienna", (I.S.M.H.*) oil on canvas dating from the 17th century

- Painting representing the agony of Christ, (I.S.M.H.*) oil on canvas dating from the 17th century

- Stations of the Cross : 14 painted engravings on paper

Ask at the MARPA reception desk (retirementhome to the left of the church) for the key tothe church. Alternatively ask at the town halladministrative office (opening hours Mon 5-7pm, Wed 8.30-11am, Fri 3-7pm, closed on Tue and Thur). Tel. 04 74 24 28 80.

SAINT-PIERRE - SAINT-DIDIER CHURCH

The church dates back to the end of the 11th century and was attached to Tournus abbey.

The apse* and the west door have been listed as historical monuments since 1927.

Outside

Destroyed during the Reign of Terror (1793), the bell tower was restored in 1818 and rebuilt in 1837.

The west door is made up of two imposts* holding up a voussure* made from recycled masonry; another voussure*, this time with a row of billets* rests on two columns with capitals. These capitals, identical, are decorated with little figures on the corners hich are stretching their arms back to grasp their ankles.

Saint-Pierre Saint-Didier church

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Circuit n°1 Circuit n°3

BOURG-EN-BRESSE CENTRE

Green pathPedestrian streets

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Dompierre-sur-Veyle

Servas

Lent

LYON

Péronnas

St-Denislès-Bourg

St-Rémy

St-André-sur-Vieux-Jonc

Montracol

Vandeins

Montcet

Buellas

Polliat Viriat

Jasseron

Bourg-en-Bresse

LONS-LE-SAUNIERMÂCON

Circuit n°2

BOURG-EN-BRESSE AGGLOMÉRATION

Montracol / St-André-sur-Vieux-Jonc : 5,5 km

SAINT-ANDRÉ-SUR-VIEUX-JONCinside

The nave, which is 16,50 m long, was never vaulted (the current timber framework is modern). The side windows date from 1891 and replace the roman openings which were probably considered too small and narrow in the 19th century. On the north side (on the left), however, there remains a roman “arrow slit” opening, of the same type that can be found at Saint-Rémy or at Saint-André-sur-Vieux-Jonc.

A semi-domed apse* has seven arches resting on eight colonettes with symmetrically matching capitals (palmettes, leaves, triangles, heads). Two of these capitals (numbers 3 and 6 from left to right) may be by the same craftsman as the entrance.

Furnishings

- The gravestone (to the left of the entrance) of Jean-Baptiste Tardy de la Pérouse (1746), the church’s benefactor. Listed as a historical monument.

- Statue of Virgin with Child, previously golden but eroded due to prior placement outside the building - 18th century (I.S.M.H.*)

- Painted wooden statue of Saint-Nizier-17th C (I.S.M.H.*)

- Two of the four stained glass windows in the nave represent the Sacred Heart and the Bishop Saint-Nizier, as a bust holding the martyrs palm

- Stations of the Cross: 14 raised images in plaster

The church is open every day 9am-5pm (winter) and to 1pm in the summer outside of services. Entrance is through the second door on the right side.

SAINT-ANDRÉ CHURCHThe oldest written reference to this church goes back to 1106 but the church seems to have the characteristics of an 11th century construction and recycled masonry which is older still. The church was attached to the diocese of Lyon under the archpriest* of Sandrans (Dombes).

Outside

Destroyed in 1793, the bell tower was rebuilt in 1818. Other important restoration work was carried out during the 19th century.

On the west gate can be found the only old parts of the exterior: two roman capitals. That on the left shows a face surrounded by two finials and that on the right is decorated with palmettes, leaves and finials.

Saint-André church

Sculpture detail

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St-André-sur-Vieux-Jonc / St-Rémy : 4,5 km

SAINT-RÉMYinside

The nave, renovated in the 18th and 19th centuries offers no Romanesque features. The apse*, on the other hand, contains the standard décor of churches in the region, seven arches supported by eight colonettes with decorated capitals, which are almost cubic and placed in pairs as at Montracol. Note the geometrical decoration of two of them, with five rows of carved triangles, point down, a very rare and ancient type of decoration which may be found nowhere else in this region.

A wall painting (I.S.M.H.*) representing "the angel and the lamb" over the window of the chancel* and the remains of a painted bouquet were discovered in 1986-87. These may date from the 15th or 16th century. The decorative background seems to have been created by stencil in the 19th century, but may cover an older decor.

Furnishings

- Marble baptismal fonts on the north side (to the left)- A painting "The Lamentation of Christ*"- Oil on canvas dating from the 17th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Polychrome wooden statue of Saint-Antoine- End of the 16th century – Listed as a historical monument- Wooden statue of the Virgin with Child - 18th C (I.S.M.H.*)- Polychrome and gold wooden statue of the Virgin with Child – 19th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Two six-seat wooden stalls with simple decoration- Polychrome wooden Christ on the cross (the loincloth* in gold and the cross black)- Painting "The Sacred Heart and two angels"- Oil on canvas signed by Prudon and dated 1871- Stations of the Cross in plasterwork (1953)- Other recent plasterwork statues: The priest of Ars, Saint-André, Jeanne d’Arc…

The church is open every day from 10 am-7pm from April until the end of September. Otherwise ask for the key at the house over the road (Madame Couard at the Old Schoolhouse) or telephone Madame Peyfort on 04 74 24 26 91. Printed guide available inside the church.

SAINT-RÉMY AND SAINT-CLAIR CHURCH

The church was mentioned for the first time in 1184. Just like the church at Saint-André-sur-Vieux-Jonc, St Rémy and St Clair was attached to the diocese of Lyon under the archpriest* of Sandrans (Dombes).

Outside

The masonry is comprised of an arrangement of river stones and bricks with some rough rocks also included. All the sculpted stones are limestone from Ramasse (Revermont*).

Destroyed at the time of the revolution the bell tower was rebuilt in 1844, on Alphonse de Lamartine’s (deputy and poet, native of Mâcon) demands to King Louis-Philippe. The 3-tone varnished tiles on the bell tower were installed in 1996.

Saint-Rémy and Saint-Clair chuch

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The other roofs (nave and chancel*) formerly covered with lava, were tiled in 1846.

The west door (12th century) is made up of an archivolt* resting on two colonettes with sculpted bases and capitals ; the latter show foliage, palmettes and grotesque masks. Quant aux toitures (nef et chevet) autrefois couvertes en lave, elles sont remodelées en tuiles en 1846.

The croissant shaped tympanum* is not resting on a lintel* but on an archivolt* held up by imposts*. There is a painted inscription “INTRA IN GAUDIUM DOMINI”, or “enter into the joy of the Lord”. A figure of Christ wearing a long robe with long tight sleeves has been engraved into the stone. He is raising His hands in blessing.

To the left of the entrance a stone lectern is encrusted in the wall: it held the gospels* during certain ceremonies.

inside

The nave has a visible cradle shaped frame. The crossing* is covered by cupola supported by squinches*. In the apse* five half-round arches rest on colonettes. The capitals are decorated with foliage, except on, the third from the left, which holds a moustachioed face.

Furnishings

- A painting representing Saint-Augustin between Saint-Thomas de Villeneuve and Saint-Nicolas de Tolentin (I.S.M.H.*)

- Oil on canvas, dating to the 17th century, attributed to Benoit Alhoste. This work was probably removed from the church at Brou, Bourg-en-Bresse (under the patronage of Saint-Nicolas de Tolentin) in order to save it from the destruction of the Revolution.

- Painting "The judgement of Suzanne"- Oil on canvas dating to the 18th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Wooden Crucified Christ, 17th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Statue of Saint-Pierre in stripped wood - 17th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Statue of Saint-Paul in stripped wood - 17th century (I.S.M.H.*)- Statue of Virgin with Child in stripped wood - 18th century I.S.M.H.*)- Baptismal font in pink andstone - Cast iron stations of the Cross.

Return : St-Rémy / Bourg-en-Bresse : 5,5 km

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Sculpture detail

heritage, gastrOnOmy, nature...Discover our special offers

for groups onwww.groupes.bourgenbressetourisme.fr

Benoit Alhoste (1620-77): A well known Bressan painter who created many religious works of art, some of which can be seen at the Notre-Dame collegiate, at the Apothecary Shop and in the Brou Museum in Bourg-en-Bresse.

•Apse : the far end of the chancel (may be square, polygonal, hemispherical …).

•Archpriest : appointed by Rome the archpriest had authority over all of the clergy in an area.

•archivOlt : the ornamental mouldings or other architectural elements surrounding an arched opening.

•Billet : an ornament consisting of a band or bands of raised short cylinders placed at intervals.

•chancel : the whole of the end of the building containing the choir and the apse, in this case, refers to the external part of the building.

•crOssing : The central space at the junction of the nave, chancel and transept of a cruciform church. May be crowned by a steeple or a bell tower.

•dendrOchrOnOlOgy : the scientific method of dating based on the analysis of patterns of tree rings.

•Gospels : a Christian book containing texts from the evangelists, read on Sundays and Saints days according to the liturgical calendar. One of the three books used during a mass along with the Missal and the Lectionary. The gospels will be carried in a procession and the entrance antiphon is recited. Older gospels may have been illuminated or incrusted with precious stones.

•i.s.m.h. : special inventory of French Historical Monuments.

•impost : the lateral part of an archway, a door, a window of chimney breast.

•the lamentatiOn : the time when Jesus’ friends and family were mourning Him just after the crucifixion.

•lAst supper : the last meal Jesus shared with his apostles before his death.

•lintel : Horizontal element above an opening.

•lOinclOth : the piece of cloth that hides Jesus’ nakedness on the cross.

•mandOrla : from the Italian “mandorla” meaning “almond”. It is a round or elliptical halo usually framing the figure of Christ or the Virgin Mary.

•pAinted funerAl bAnd : in the last years of the monarchy a black band would be placed inside, and sometime outside, of a church to commemorate the death of a notable. The funeral band could go right round the church or be limited to one chapel inside the building. As they were ephemeral there are very few remaining today. Instead of paint a black band of fabric could have been used during the funeral ceremony. This custom seems to have started in the early 14th C but the French Revolution brought an end to this practice.

•piétA or VirGin of compAssion : a theme in Christian iconography representing the Virgin ary as a mother weeping for Her dead child, Christ, removed from the cross. She holds Him on Her knees and the scene precedes that of the inhumation.

•portico : a shelter supported by four wooden posts standing on stone bases.

•revermOnt : Foothills of the Jura Mountains to the east of the Bresse region.

•rOOd Beam : A beam running across the chancel arch of a church carrying a cross or crucifix.

•trAnsept : the area set crosswise to the nave in a cruciform church.

•tympAnum : the semi-circular or triangular decorative wall surface over an entrance bounded by a lintel and arch.

•squinche : a piece of construction used for filling in the upper angles of square space so as to form the proper base to receive an octagonal or spherical dome, often found at a crossing.

•vOussure : each of the concentric arches that form an archivolt on an arcade or a doorway.

LEXIQUE

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Throughout the 15 communities that make up the Bourg-en-Bresse population centre, there are so many possibilities for new discoveries…

The many rivers and streams, the Reyssouze, the Veyle, the Jugnon, the Vieux-Jonc, are often equipped with watermills such as la Fretaz in Péronnas or Montfalconnet in Polliat. (private watermills).

The ruins of Jasseron fortress stand out over the plain ; the walk to get there gives you some wonderful views over the Bresse region. Strategically the promontory dominates the Bresse plain and the access to the Franche Comté region and could only be occupied by a fort. The first fortifications were built in the feudal period and evolved through the centuries to become the most important castle in the area. It has, however, suffered from the lack of means of some of its owners and been damaged by violent storms. Serving no defensive purpose and being in a too inhospitable position to be transformed into a residence the fortress was abandoned at the beginning of the 15th C. Time has worn it away but the ruins that remain allow you to imagine what the castle was like in the past.

The Bresse farms are another must-see when

discovering the local heritage. Some farms are particularly worth going out of your way to see, such as the Luisandre farm, in Saint-Denis lès Bourg, which has been very well restored, and see its lake, roofed well and its bread ovens. Finally, the fairy mound in Buellas is worth a trip. These mounds probably correspond to “hill forts”, an artificial hillock built before the feudal period and usually intended to support a wooden or stone tower which would be a refuge for the lord in case of attack. Often placed close to a road or obligatory crossing point these mounds may have been linked to the idea of a toll crossing. Some more Bresse farms are to be seen and visited following the "Route de la Bresse".

In Buellas, the fairy mound is a historic reconstruction. The original was destroyed by its owner in 1786. He said that fairies had built their home there and that they were leaving golden flax wherever they passed… More information on the signs provided by the village.

Watermill in Polliat

Pôle socio-culturel de Saint-Denis lès Bourg

The fairy mound in Buellas

CONTINUE YOUR ADVENTURE

Through historyJasseron fortress

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Going up Avenue Alsace Lorraine, you come to square Joubert which was created in 1932 and named in memory of the famous general who was born in Pont-de-Vaux (close to Bourg-en-Bresse) in 1769. A sculpture by Alphonse Muscat (1871-1944) shows a hoe-woman checking the time by the sun. A small, flower decked basin and a belt of chestnut trees whose pink flowers (in May) turn this into a peaceful corner.

The artdeco (1930s) facade of the Chamber of Commerce gives onto the square. Two bas-reliefs are reminders of the raising of animals in the Bresse and the wine production of the Bugey.

Behind the impressive war memorial you can see a majestic Atlas cedar which was planted in 1955 to commemorate the liberation of the city. Close to the children’s playground you can see a bas-relief which is dedicated to the authorphilosopher

Shown in green on the central map.

Bourg-en-Bresse holds the high status of "3 flowers" in the national Ville Fleurie (flowered town) competition. Its numerous squares, parks and gardens, decorated with fountains, offer a relaxing tour.

Edgar Quinet (cf p.6), native to the region (1803-1875). The view then moves to the garden and its bandstand, built in 1895 to drawings by Tony Ferret, state architect.

The Quinconces Garden is the largest in the city and laid out in the pure style of a French formal garden : trimmed shrubs, straight pathways, symmetrical flowerbeds creating patterns. Large and varied trees create an impressive screen: lindens, beeches, chestnuts, hickories, and three plane trees over 100 years old, recognisable thanks to their curved trunk which looks like an elephant’s leg, but 3 metres in circumference!

On the other side of Boulevard Leclerc, you can find the observatory built in 1792 by the astronomer Lalande (cf p.6)at the highest point of the city (242 m). To the right of the kiosk you can’t miss the weeping beech which was planted at the beginning of the last century; it is particularly remarkable when in full leaf. It somewhat hides the war memorial in the shape of a boat’s prow which commemorates those dead in North Africa.

A TASTE OF NATURE

Circuit n°3A space to saunter... Fountains ans parks

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Square Joubert

Quinconces garden

Baudières park

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From here, move on to the Park of the Visitation . You will already have noticed, on your left, the buildings of the former Aubry barracks which were built in 1864 on the site of the old citadel. This is an important place in the history of the Burgiens : it was home successively to the 23rd Infantry Regiment and the 1st and 5th Moroccan Sniper Regiments. The buildings are now shared by associations, public administration and rental property. The entrance to the Park of the Visitation is through a listed cast iron gate. Within the park you will find the old washhouse, the old water tower (water from the Capuchin spring flows into this pigeon loft type construction), "Grandfather’s Return", a statue by Muscat, as well as the mysterious “poype”, or mound which was once crowned with an enigmatic column. This column held a statue of the Virgin at the time of the Visitandines (1870 to 1983). Hedges of yew and box, symbols of immortality are omnipresent in this sacred place. The trees are a mix of oak, maple, spruce, lime, beech, horse chestnut and a ginkgo biloba (known in France as the 40 ecu tree as it was introduced in France at this price; in the autumn the leaves are a rich golden yellow).

Leave the park through the Passage des Visitandines (exit at the foot of the mound). You will walk along the buildings that house the Direction Départementale des Territoires (County Planning

Department); notice the old convent building in pale Burgundy stone. Take the Rue des Marronniers on the left: several lovely tiered houses can be seen here. You come to Rue Bourgmayer (turn right). Filled with old private mansions this road will take you to square Lalande .

This space is arranged around the statue of the astronomer (cf p.6). The bust is placed on an impressive base by Alphonse Muscat which represents Urania, muse of astronomy. Notice the stars, the terrestrial globe and the signs of the zodiac as well as a telescope. The square is surrounded by silver lime trees. A very rare Honey Locust with scary spikes spreads its shade over the monument.

N° 7 rue Clavagry , on the edge of the square continues the nature theme with its four seasons symbolised on the keystones. In the centre: Apollo.

Now let’s go to the Bastion built under François 1st in the 16th century to reinforce the fortifications of the city (then French) against a return of the Savoyards. The area was transformed into an esplanade in 1774 with perfumed plane and lime trees. At one end you will find a statue of Docteur Bichat (1771-1812) by the sculptor David d’Angers. Bichat, who was a native of the area, began his career in the local hospital.

Washhouse in the Park of the Visitation

Square Lalande

Rue Clavagry

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Below the Bastion, the Grenette Esplanade, renovated in 2005 contains a lovely dry fountain (with no basin) . The Esplanade de la Comédie takes you to the impressive cast iron fountain on Place Bernard which was installed in 1879 on the site of the cemetery cross. The bowls held up by Cherubim allow the water to flow through the lions’ mouths. Place Bernard is surrounded by lovely 19th century buildings : in particular the hôtel de France (1853), and the Milliat mansion at N° 15 (1897).

Rue des Bons Enfants is decorated with a painted fountain which seems to spring from a trompe-l’oeil painting. On Place Edgar Quinet the richly mineral fountain by Avoscan symbolises our planet and the four cardinal points. Close to the colleges this is the meeting point for students.

For those who enjoy a healthy walk we recommend Baudières Park on foot via the Rue de la République. It is also accessible by car. The park allows you to follow the course of the Reyssouze in

a green environment. The river crosses the Bresse from its source above the city (in Journans) to the Saône River. The meanders of the river and its canal are lined with weeping willow, silver birch, poplar, maple, birch, wild cherry and hazel. If you keep your eyes open you will spot mallards, herons, bluetits and maybe a red squirrel.

Have a look at the metal sculpture “the animals” by René Roche, also at the bridges, rockeries, glades and flowerbeds. From the park you can see the imposing form of the hospital built at the end of the 18th century. Within the hospital is a fabulous apothecary shop (see page 8).

Baudières Park is the starting point for the cycleway (see page 25).

The floral decoration of Bourg-en-Bresse and neighbouring communities is remarkable. As well as the “3 flowers” award held by the city and also Viriat, there are no less than 8 other communities which have been given awards for their green spaces (2011). A lovely idea for a walk on a nice day for the pleasure of your eyes! And it comes as no surprise that the flower show “Floralies” is organised in Bourg-en-Bresse…

Place Bernard

Fountain by Avoscan - Place Edgar Quinet

The Reyssouze river

AND AROUND ?

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Swimming, sailing, windsurfing, canoe, a walk around a lake, fishing, golf, games for kids, picnic areas : the Bouvent leisure area is an un-missable sport and leisure spot in Bourg-en-Bresse.

Several lakes around the city invite you to recharge your batteries:

Champataule Lake in Viriat is much appreciated by fishermen. It’s also a lovely place for a walk which allows you to see a variety of fauna (grebes, coots, kingfishers) and flora.

Bénonnières Lake in Jasseron (1.5 km from the village) is also adapted for fishing. A short detour by foot will take you to the ruins of a castle from where you have a panoramic view of the Bresse plains (see page 20).

In Lent, the Réna Lake is worth visiting for the more active that will enjoy the adrenalin filled activities with a cable ski installation allowing water skiing and wakeboarding and other water sports activities.Opening hours: check with the Tourist Office and on www.bourgenbressetourisme.fr

In Saint-Denis-lès-Bourg the Barvay fishing lake (on chemin de Barvay) is an enchanting site. The sluice, deep water channel and the belt canal can be seen (careful, private property).

Between Bresse and Dombes, breathe and feel zen !

In Dompierre-sur-Veyle, the lake known as “le Grand Marais” (on Route de Saint-Nizier) is part of the “route des Etangs de la Dombes” (the Dombes lake route). Look for the explanatory signs.

The Reyssouze river crosses Bourg-en-Bresse and the countryside around offers great fishing spots.

Another refreshing stop, Carré d’Eau in Bourg-en-Bresse offers indoor equipment (fun pool, swimming pool, spa bath, paddling pool, resistance swimming, fitness suite and balneotherapy) and open air equipment in the summer (flume, 6-lane waterslide, fun pool, paddling pool, water jets and games).

Seillon forest, between Bourg-en-Bresse and Péronnas, is a haven of peace, best explored on foot, on horse or by bicycle. There is equipment for every type of athlete: an obstacle course, footpaths, a nature path for children, pic nic areas and playgrounds.

CONITNUE YOUR ADVENTURE

Dive into nature

WANT TO MOVE? TO CHILL OUT?

Bouvent leisure area

Carré d’eau

Seillon forest

Lake in Dompierre-sur-Veyle

The local hiking organisation “Le Comité départemental de randonnée pédestre" suggests a trail lasting 3 ¼ hours, starting from the Champ de Foire (fairground) in Bourg-en-Bresse, which takes you to the centre of the city and on to the Bouvent lake, Seillon forest and also the southern areas of the city. More information available in the map guide "En Bresse et Val de Saône nord" - 54 itineraries from 1 to 5 ¼ hours to discover the Dombes lakes and the Bresse copses or the Saone valley to the Revermont by foot, among these itineraries are several walks in and around Bourg-en-Bresse.

A wide range of maps are available at the Tourist office.

A cycleway, known as Chemin de la Hulotte, will take cyclists safely from Baudières Park to Seillon forest via the Bouvent leisure area. A great idea for the whole family! !Map available at the Tourist Office and on www.bourgenbressetourisme.fr.

Visit the centre of Bourg-en-Bresse by bike, yes, you can! The city has implemented cycle lanes and againstthetraffic-flow systems.Map available at the Tourist Office and at the Town Hall.

WALKING CYCLING

THERE'S MORE!

27 circuits have been blazed to help you discover, on foot, by bike or on horseback, the countryside and heritage of the communities of the Bourg-en-Bresse region. A map is available free of charge from the town halls and the Tourist Office.

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TIME FOR THE TASTEBUDS

Fancy something a bit tasty...

In December, at the "les Glorieuses de Bresse", competition, started in 1862, you can see the very best of these chickens dressed in their best, and the winning capon (castrated chicken) is offered to the President of the Republic.

Gastronomy is also “quenelles de brochet sauce Nantua” (pike dumplings in Nantua sauce), frogs’legs from the Dombes, fresh cream cheese, Bresse blue cheese or "tarte Bressane", a rich brioche pastry coated with cream and sugar. Cream is an essential ingredient in Bressan cookery ; you’ll find it in sauces, gratins (baked dishes usually with cream or cheese sauce), and of course in the most famous recipe for preparing our chickens “poulet de Bresse à la crème”.

Don't miss:Every Wednesday and Saturday morning the Bourg-en-Bresse market on the Champ de Foire is colourful… And mouth-watering!

Mais aussi :

• Every Sunday morning: the Vennes local market in Bourg-en-Bresse

• Year-round, every Tuesday: animal market at the Foirail de la Chambière in Saint-Denis-lès-Bourg. More than 100.000 beasts are sold here each year under the eyes of breeders, traders and the simply curious! .

Bourg-en-Bresse is an acknowledged gastronomic capital. Who has never heard of Bresse chicken, the only poultry with a Protected Designation of Origin in France for more than 50 years, and with its characteristic blue feet, white feathers and red crest?

THERE'S MORE!It is the most important animal market in France speaking about the number of beasts sold.

Bresse chicken

"Tarte bressane"

Bresse blue cheese

THERE'S MORE!Alive poultry on sale every wednesday in the little hall.

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REFLASH ME

Texts and graphic layout : Bourg-en-Bresse Agglomération tourist office – March 2013.Photos : Office de tourisme de Bourg-en-Bresse Agglomération ; C. Thieux : S. Buathier Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse ; L. Raimondo ; C. Bertrand Atelier Thyx ; D. Jungers ; A.-I. Ginisti ; D. Cotte ; Bourg-en-Bresse Agglomération ; J.-P. Tridon/J. Maggiori/Ott./Mayard/L. Delétang Photo Club Bressan ; B. Dutheil ; Théâtre de la Citadelle ; CIVB ; Bressor ; Fotolia ;

M. Robert ; A. Morel ; P. Forestier/Adaka - Eaux Bressans Jeanvoine ; A. Perier Rhône-Alpes Tourisme ; H. Maertens. N° SIRET : 77930508500028 – ROVS : IM001110011

Monastère royal de Brou

Liaison verte Poulet de Bresse AOC Émaux Bressans Jeanvoine

Les Floralies internationalesNovembre 2013

Les Ain’Pertinentes, biennale d’art populaire citadinJuillet à septembre 2013

DOMBES

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Aéroport de LYONSaint-Exupéry

Bourg-en-Bresse Agglomération, between Lyon and Geneva,between the Bresse, the Dombes and the Revermont.

Bourg-en-Bresse Agglomération tourist office welcomes you from Monday to Saturday,

10am-12am / 2pm – 6pm (3rd WE of Sept. to June 15th) and 10am – 7pm (15th June to 3rd WE of Sept.),

on Sundays, 9:30 am-1:30pm (1st July to 15th September).

Tourist information, events, guided tours, ticketing, gift shop:

6 avenue Alsace Lorraine, 01000 BOURG-EN-BRESSETel. +33 (0)4 74 22 49 40 – Fax. +33 (0)4 74 23 06 28

accueil@bourgenbressetourisme.fr

www.bourgenbressetourisme.fr

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