56
FEBRUARY Urbane fox SMART AND BRIGHT SPRING TAILORING / CLASSIC WATCH AUCTIONS / PRIVATEISH JETS AN AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI / ’S MUSTHA VE TECH / SPAIN’S BORDEAUXBEATING WINE THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY

Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Citation preview

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FEBRUARY 983090983088983089983090

Urbane foxSMART AND BRIGHT SPRING TAILORING CLASSIC WATCH AUCTIONS PRIVATE983080ISH983081 JETS

AN AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI 983090983088983089983090rsquoS MUST983085HAVE TECH SPAINrsquoS BORDEAUX983085BEATING WINE

THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY

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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m

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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 356

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 456

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 556

ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 756

Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 856

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 956

CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 1356

Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m

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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m

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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 956

CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 756

Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter

Patented under-lugs correctors

Secured calendar and

moon-phases mechanism

Ref 6664-3642-55B

wwwblancpaincom

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA

MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH

0845 273 2500

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 956

CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 1156

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 1556

The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097

Foreword

The City needs to win the debate about

bonuses says David Charters ndash and he

argues it would help if the payments were

viewed as a reward not an entitlement

Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of

the Bentley Continental GT

Beaumonde

News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car

manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski

Championships have a new home

Wine

Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an

unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages

are desirable collectible ndash and cheap

Private jets

A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury

convenience and smart budget management

Technology

Just unveiled the new screen sound and

comms devices you will almost certainly

want to own as soon as they are available

Shooting

Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow

fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns

After the City

How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global

macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his

Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons

FeaturesTravel

The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle

SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but

for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-

edge silhouette look to the fashion houses

Style

Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if

David Hockney were your personal stylist

Watch auctions

A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from

around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks

By George

Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer

who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance

983089983090

983089983093

983089983095

983090983088

983090983090

983090983095

983091983089

983091983092

983091983095

983092983088

983092983092

983093983088

983093983092

Contents

Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089

Editor

Joanne Glasbey

Art Director

Dominic Bell

Associate Editor

Henry Farrar-Hockley

Chief Copy Editor

Chris Madigan

Picture Editor

Juliette HedoinCopy Editor

Sarah Evans

Fashion Director

Tamara Fulton

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

Advertising amp Events Director

Duncan McRae

duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom

983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097

showmedianet

brummellshowmedianet

Visit Brummellrsquos website for

more tailor-made content

brummellmagazinenet

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom

Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd

and distributed with Financial News All material copy

Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission is strictly prohibited While every

effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information

contained in this publication no responsibility can

be accepted for any errors or omissions The information

contained in this publication is correct at the time of

going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the

responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show

Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers

Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder

D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r

983092983089

The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits

Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Too much was paid out in cash

rather than being held back and

there was a clear and logical

potential for a conflict of interest

Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we

deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement

Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness

The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism

No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost

But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate

Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we

reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot

And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the

first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact

Target praice

that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet

What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required

Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields

The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the

industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had

crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well

but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that

So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised

But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again

It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever

worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions

If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will

The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699

FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT

BREITLINGCOM

With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance

of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-

certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the

absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs

One heart Three legends

or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new

V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT

Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter

BRUMMELL 983089983093

Less could very well be more in the case of the

Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar

with the quintessentially British (but German-

owned) marque will know that the original

Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast

six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which

promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo

has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time

but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly

ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre

V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent

more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable

of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the

0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths

slower than its stablemate It remains of course

superbly appointed with an options list as long as

your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10

per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although

the latter will remain available for those who

still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip

Available at HR Owen hrowencouk

bentleymotorscom

MONEY NO

OBJECT

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8

Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT

The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail

Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum

For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk

Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095

Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear

Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts

mid-March has for the past 10 years

or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in

Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski

Championships However this yearrsquos

event is at a new destination and part

of the Momentum Ski Festival in

Crans Montana Switzerland with

comedy and music adding to the

on-slope fun Performing at the

Momentum Ski Festival will be some

of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars

Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus

Hound with music from The Feeling

Crans Montana is the coming resort

in Switzerland and has seen a lot of

development ndash mainly in the building

of five-star hotels and luxury chalets

The ski area is topped with a glacier

running into an open bowl and

descending into interesting tree runs

Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the

nightlife 15-18 March Packages

from pound665pp for three days

momentumskifestivalcom

Home from home

SJ Villas is a personalised service that

specialises in beautiful holiday home

rentals round the globe chosen by the

duo running the company They say they

turn down more properties than they list

claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good

news for those with no time to trawl the

internet you can be sure that each

property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and

every luxury Whether you want to stay in

The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an

elegant and sophisticated beachfront

home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the

Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style

villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA

course you can be assured of top quality

all through the experience sjvillascouk

Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt

ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful

and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness

and comfort Available in three versions ndash

including a chronograph ( pictured above) and

a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water

resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres

Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning

combination for a spirited character pound3110

breitlingcom

Auto revival

The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with

Atalanta Motors but the British car

manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939

after just two years of production is making

a comeback Businessman and classic car

enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to

the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run

of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story

of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says

Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of

its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of

warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the

elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there

has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices

from pound80000 atalantamotorscom

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2656

30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2756

TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering

photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse

and magical A retrospective of her work is

taking place at Art Sensus next month

presenting over 100 images All About Eve

offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of

Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood

legends and many political figures often taken

in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and

for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos

extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about

the world and its people In the accompanying

book almost half of the images have been rarely

seen Prints of her work are still available and

very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus

2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom

Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos

wearing and if this widely held belief has you

shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better

pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop

situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where

Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea

boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned

attention to detail shape style and quality And

as all his shoes are made in England (even the

tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be

sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint

justindeakincom

Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the

worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair

giving visitors a unique chance to

view and to buy works from artists

as diverse as Renoir and Anish

Kapoor as well as objects reflecting

7000 years of excellence in the

decorative arts (even BMW Art

Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition

pictured ) A distinctive feature of

TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine

masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques

dealers from 18 countries The fair

has led the way in establishing proper

vetting procedures 29 committees

made up of over 170 experts in

every field of art represented at the

fair verify each and every object for

quality authenticity and condition so

visitors always buy with confidence

To celebrate its silver jubilee this

year TEFAF also has an exhibition

of master drawings including works

by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and

Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom

BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096

HISTORIC RETURN

Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute

has returned to London with a

brand new flagship store on

Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street

Famous historically for its

precious eggs embellished with

exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a

range of handmade menrsquos and

womenrsquos watches in addition to

fine jewellery Particularly

special is a limited collection of

egg pendants in 60 different

designs featuring rose gold and

diamond detailing An opulent

love token indeed fabergecom

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088

more difficult to sell How times change Over the

last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship

single-vineyard wines have become the most

unlikely global cult wines among collectors and

sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-

Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter

of the founder finds herself hosting vertical

tastings in Miami Tokyo or London

Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised

none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe

never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted

to make the best wines we can wines that are true

to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed

at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo

Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de

Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with

collectors clamouring for them they are moving

up in price Even so they still represent remarkable

value when compared to some neighbours and an

absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux

Further good news for its ever-increasing fan

base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of

vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars

ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There

are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles

of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885

A number of these are commercially available

from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64

at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)

Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much

more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case

of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800

Younger vintages are in more plentiful

supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer

several vintages including the relatively recently

released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic

Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in

aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo

Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several

other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia

Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece

However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as

these unique wines will age as well as any great

white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe

Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50

years of agersquo The reds take even longer

In the last two years London wine merchant

The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and

ever-changing range of traditional fully mature

Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and

include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such

as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana

Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as

Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos

Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their

popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like

the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year

old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right

now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping

the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo

lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom

thesamplercouk

Words John Stimpfig

When Spainrsquos winemakers

turned up the dial on fruit and

tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two

decades in the wilderness it is

now the toast of connoisseurs

Rioja of ages

Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja

cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable

number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo

wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is

the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near

Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous

hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego

But arguably the most distinctive of all the

bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta

capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement

architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed

by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has

changed in a century or more Least of all its

ultra-traditional methods of winemaking

Over the last two decades while the rest of

Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion

reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash

Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained

true to its roots and carried on producing the

most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as

white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was

commercial suicide as the wines became ever

WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090

Victor members can buy single seats on a private

jet that is already flying at a time and to a

destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare

seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the

otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route

and date on the site my particular flight for

instance comes up as costing around pound750

By logging in to the site Victor members can

see what flights by private jet are going where

and can register their interest in buying a seat

The more who fly on a plane the lower the price

per seat and the more who join Victor the

greater availability of seats on the site

The name which Jackson the marketer

thought carefully about is more than an airline

call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this

case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them

when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of

paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could

now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo

Private jet travel is convenient and

luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now

thanks to an innovative flight-sharing

company it can mean value too

Air supply

Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent

commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge

per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful

soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise

another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion

Already there are just over 700 members and the

potential for 441000 route combinations as the

system develops and more jet charterers use it

Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising

private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point

of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos

clients say they are happy to share their cabin

space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)

And Jackson believes that even more charterers

will come to understand that accommodating other

passengers can save considerable sums while still

offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with

ndash some members are happy to talk to like-

minded individuals others might be thrilled to

be seated alongside a world famous golfer or

mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say

hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo

Certainly the Victor member whose jet

Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which

would otherwise have flown down to the island

empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no

objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of

extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo

flyvictorcom

Words SImon Brooke

Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in

Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight

from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI

cancelled its service he was not best pleased But

unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson

who has made millions in digital marketing

decided to do something about it

lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars

and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo

he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me

suggested that we charter a plane but that

would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to

know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo

Convinced that there must be an alternative

Jackson began to research the demand for flights

to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that

there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route

lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised

that the solution was a platform that allowed

people to see in real time how many others

might want to charter a planersquo he says This

platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan

online community of people with a shared desire

to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a

sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison

site with a social media element which makes

using private aviation more affordable than the

traditional business of simply chartering a private

jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are

willing to share a private aircraft to do so

Someone chartering a jet can

sell spare seats on ithellip so

instead of paying say pound6000

it could now only be pound2000

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Paradise Found

Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one

of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom

freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots

averaging one hectare

Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and

panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service

and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate

Prices from US$7250000

LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom

-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ

HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556

h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2656

30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 3756

TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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h a c k e t t c o m

Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design

and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with

contemporary city style blending formal luxury

with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his

lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early

1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an

overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the

symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry

gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing

Aircraft Evaluation

Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew

Financial Management

Operational Management

Regulatory Compliance

Aircraft Maintenance

Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA

The best airline in the world

is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall

Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport

At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for

you in a friendly and personalised way

With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice

All you have to do is enjoy the flight

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095

THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months

from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart

TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED

screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the

same dual-core processors found in PCs to

allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter

and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides

two distinct benefits over and above the usual

video calls to Australian relatives The first is a

facial recognition feature that identifies

the viewer then automatically loads up your

favourite apps channels and multimedia

content The second allows users to bypass the

remote and change channels find programme

information and adjust the volume via voice

commands or simply by waving your hand Last

but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without

having to buy another TV set

Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens

camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage

styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the

clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability

and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the

concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the

first X series camera to offer interchangeable

lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor

that manages exceptional colour reproduction

From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk

Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined

the best elements of mobile internet and landline

telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up

or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP

services such as Skype With eight microphones

built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference

calls and a traditional handset design letting you

make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously

itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom

Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling

headphones effectively eradicate two common

personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second

a simple gesture-based control system makes

a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary

To turn up the volume run a finger up the

outside of the earcup to change tracks just

drag your digit left or right Even better the

music only starts playing when you put the

headphones on and stops when you remove

them again Price TBA parrotcomuk

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097

Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance

yet they are typically where we store our music

Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos

little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-

analogue converter and headphone amplifier the

USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to

your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This

sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi

system or headphones and the box is slim enough

to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk

BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play

with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by

outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up

everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series

Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three

concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier

It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables

leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight

hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom

HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been

gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy

new model is a prime example of this emerging

category that promises equal doses of power

and portability The first talking point is purely

aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant

lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that

continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other

key specs include a borderless 14in screen

Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless

technology and 128GB of solid-state storage

From around pound1200 hpcomuk

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET

LONDON W1K 2ED

+44 (0)20 7499 1801

wwwpurdeycom

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000

GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089

Find pheasant shooting a little

ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-

loader for maximum effect

SHOT

AND AWE

The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about

115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between

600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry

Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the

Battle of Waterloo

The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos

stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were

really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up

to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less

than the height of an average soldier It was

undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit

yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for

hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012

it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash

muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in

the UK without having to hold any form of licence

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770

BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090

Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets

and rifles As the name suggests they are

loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or

black powder as it used to be known) a bullet

and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment

vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the

countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists

points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from

capital gains tax because it has moving parts

and is thus classified as a machinersquo

As a general rule of thumb industry

insiders advise that firearms increase in value

at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover

muzzle loaders made by the great makers such

as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity

value Created with extreme skill they often

feature extraordinary embellishments

David Williams of Bonhams observes that

while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their

aesthetic value now earns them a place among

the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated

and made Itrsquos why most museums have a

gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore

works of art in their own rightrsquo

As such they can come with quite

substantial price tags At its next auction in

April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare

18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels

and locks with an estimated value of

pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos

June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there

are over 200 antique firearms for auction with

prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to

pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good

condition and with a Waterloo provenance may

set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English

duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash

can cost from pound6500

You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot

do their value or their condition a great deal of

good As soon as you want to pull the hefty

trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms

licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs

approved by the Home Office One such is the

Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain

where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he

can get most people managing to shoot pretty

accurately and loading safely by the end of one

day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every

four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get

used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it

surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at

endless pheasants

If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at

auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)

has sales on 27 June and 7 December

Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April

18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos

(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank

amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction

weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders

contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of

Great Britain (mlagbcom)

Words Eloise Napier

Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos

why most museums have

a dedicated arms gallery

I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom

HERITAGE COLLECTION

AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm

VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm

E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092

Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global

macroproducts for menrsquos grooming

and hit on a winner with his no-

nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons

Tonic

boom

Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men

discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight

guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with

the tone of a man vindicated As founder

of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic

he was at least partially responsible for the

conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years

ago men would never divulge where they go for

a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore

more frank when talking about these things

Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the

football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo

Smart fast-talking and supremely

engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A

Frenchman raised on the American East Coast

until eight years ago he was in global macro-

products at the London branch of French bank

Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that

suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but

I was very keen to create something create

a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having

looked into a variety of industries mainly in the

food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs

and restaurants It came less from passion than

hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no

competition and the fact that men here have

long spent more on grooming than in any other

country ndash but masculine intuition had something

to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated

for men a Soho House version of the traditional

Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition

of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around

for 150-some years but they only offered so

much and there was a scare factor for them to

offer more We knew men were going to unisex

establishments and feeling awkward so we

created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo

Hence the sedate and grown-up haven

of green walls and light wood hidden behind

discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here

located just off Berkeley Square haircuts

wet shaves massages and skin treatments are

briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a

Bloody Mary There are showers in every

treatment room no wandering around in robes

and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an

efficient clean service an instant fix and they

are creatures of habit they want somewhere

they can come back to again and againrsquo

There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy

had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we

first set out people were talking about the

ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David

Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in

this country men just needed a bit more of an

outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty

of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot

only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos

the most international city in the worldrsquo

There are now three salons in the capital ndash

the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp

Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same

beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a

Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and

New Delhi are next The global perspective

says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking

years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have

to The first 150 clients we had

in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from

London We knew that our clients were

emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad

preparing for new ventures the New Delhi

branch will encompass a private membersrsquo

club There is also an ever-expanding product

range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos

limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing

in Waitrose He tells a story about a large

corporation who came to him about a new product

lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you

really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity

for routine You over-complicate that routine

and you have a problemrsquo

gentlemenstoniccom

Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom

Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour

Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning

historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection

of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo

wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops

Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)

Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088

Traditional farm houses ndash price on application

A TUSCAN DREAM

983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING

WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK

55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

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TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095

traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo

An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan

cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble

Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling

After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe

River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a

unique vantage point for watching African wildlife

Words Ian Belcher

I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn

As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough

documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth

Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel

Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of

AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

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KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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PLANET OCEAN

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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096

National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo

Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a

Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake

Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely

An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I

saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five

minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of

Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo

We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on

the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo

Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of

river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want

to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo

Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of

water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing

We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with

bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant

Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury

High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the

Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the

illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision

Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and

full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat

RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish

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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

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BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 3956

THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF

hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green

and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course

Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an

ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating

and uniquely Scottish experience

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who

want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a

premier destination that is rich in history

To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment

at Hamilton Grand please contact

David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd

dvaughansavillscom

+44 (0)20 7016 3740

HamiltonGrandcouk

This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have

not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising

material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4056

BRIONI

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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256

the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

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ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4056

BRIONI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256

the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089

Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to

deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and

fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge

Words David Waters

SHAPE

SHIFTERS

flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills

Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit

Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom

Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit

lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom

It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or

open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in

The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble

However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us

lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256

the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256

the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom

Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear

designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear

ferragamocom etautzcom

For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its

crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom

Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy

Springrsquos silhouettes continue

the ongoing trend for slim and

to-the-body neatness Yet there

is a more relaxed feel this season

LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356

TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091

Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this

fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom

The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos

best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk

It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos

offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom

More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids

Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom

The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never

been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned

Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know

ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456

ORANGE SEGMENT

From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith

Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093

Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke

David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette

in a shoot photographed in what was

the British masterrsquos Sixties flat

Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton

A bigger lash

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656

TANGERINE SCHEME

This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods

Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756

STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856

BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956

KIND OF BLUE

Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith

This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370

both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes

Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique

Models

Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select

Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent

Styling assistants

Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty

With thanks to Candyat East Photographic

STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056

RECORD DEVICES

The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156

and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals

Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively

The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block

Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this

With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions

are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton

Hammer time

yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet

But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the

world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces

The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining

In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted

timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent

One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces

During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m

WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356

T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N

A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456

BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092

One of Italian fashionrsquos

most flamboyant figures

Angelo Galasso believes

that the time is right for men

to dress more expressively

BOLD

RUSH

StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom

Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom

Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard

chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom

Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom

Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800

023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom

lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter

all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant

Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow

Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his

influence on menswear Galasso is the car

salesman turned investment banker turned

shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in

1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-

inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff

to better accommodate a statement timepiece

ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks

and loud prints In short he rescued the humble

shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-

shop international business in the process

Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel

it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the

shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor

and could see that the market was going

towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo

Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration

but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front

man of an eponymous brand after launching

Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with

whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal

battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower

lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian

luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to

ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes

is available in a more bespoke version should

you wish to turn the volume right up

lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the

right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is

a customer who wants something bolderrsquo

For those more comfortable with muted

sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap

too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or

Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant

detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)

and it is Galasso argues actually all rather

traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high

lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where

the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo

Galasso concedes that his new business is

more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch

the right momenthellip I think in the coming years

wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more

expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and

theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou

canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it

with one piece not head to toe Some people

will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo

Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who

thinks he could build his young business up into

another 100-store chain ndash has something of a

track record of going his own way and finding

enough men to follow him It was while he was

working in finance and unable to find clothes he

liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues

were placing orders enough that he decided to

go full-time - with the novelty of having women

on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking

client measurements at work Soon the unlikely

combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II

of Jordan started buying too

Now he reckons we are all undergoing

what might be called the mozzarella

transformation Galasso frequently cites

the cheese in an analogy of the difference

between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade

ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella

that was available in the UK was standard even

dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally

from the region of Puglia where Galasso was

born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of

difference men are seeing in their clothing

choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it

angelogalassocom

Words Josh Sims

OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a

shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic

into all areas of fashion

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN

8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656

PLANET OCEAN