Techniques for your TurntableSimple explanation: It is a motor with a platter attached to it. It has a variable speed control and a tonearm with a cartridge mounted on the end of it. This cartridge has a needle which gets lowered into the groove of a shiny black piece of vinyl, called a record. That's the simple definition... Turntables have been around forever. Ok, maybe not forever, but since around the 1870's when Thomas Edison and Alexander Bell were working on the first primitive versions of what we know today as the Turntable. Edison's was called a phonograph, while Bell's was called a graphophone. So with the advent of new and digital technologies, how could something that was conceived so long ago have survived into the 21st Century? Maybe this will give you a clue:

When the International Museum of Science (UK) held an exhibition of 250 Technological Devices that have had a strong impact and inlfuence on the 20th century, what nifty device do you think was featured in there with all the other marvels of technology? None other than the Technics SL1200mk2. The original 1200 (the Mark 1) was introduced in 1973. In November 1980, the 1200mk2 was released, the big improvement was the variable speed slider, as opposed to the + / - buttons on the Mark 1. It's design has remained unchanged since, and it has become the industry standard around the world. There are other turntables out there, but none of them have been able to rival the simplicity and longevity of the SL1200mk2.

Let me take you through the setup of your SL1200mk2, and discuss some common best practices so you can get the most performance out of your turntable, and enjoy the benefits that come with owning such a reliable machine. First off, let me clear up any confusion regarding the SL1200 and SL1210. They are identical in design and functionality, save for the fact that the SL1200 is in classic silver, while the SL1210 is in black. That is the only difference between them, their colouring. The SL1200 and SL1210 share the same parts catalogue and the same service manual.

There are also the SL1210m3d and the SL1210mk4 models available. The m3d introduces a zero-pitch button, a recessed power switch (to prevent those accidental bumps of the power switch) and a spare headshell holder. Not too much in the way of major developments. The mk4 has everything the m3d has, plus a speed setting of 78rpm.

Is it Level? The first thing you should do when setting up your turntable is make sure you are setting it up on a level surface. This is very important aspect to consider. If your turntable is not set up on a level surface, it can affect performance, and sound quality. Each of the four rubber feet under the turntable is height adjustable, so you can compensate for any unlevelness by adjusting the appropriate rubber foot. Use a small spirit level to check that it is level.

Check the tonearm Whether your turntable is brand new, or second hand, it's always a good idea to check the tonearm for any problems. Firstly, with a cartridge screwed into place, pick up the tonearm and gently move it from from the outer rim of the platter to the centre spindle, back and forth. Keep doing this. While you're doing this, gently jiggle the tonearm up and down. There should be no play on it. It should feel sturdy and there should be no extra movement. If there is, it could be that the ball bearings in the tonearm structure are worn or damaged. A damaged tonearm

that is not sturdy during playback has dramatic negative effects on the performance of the turntable. This is one to watch out for.

Set the tonearm height The height sets the tonearm pivot and needle with relation to the vinyl. The height of the tonearm can be adjusted by up to 6mm, and a scale is provided on the adjust ring in 0.5 mm increments. A "0" scale reading is 15 mm, a "6" scale reading is 21mm. Always be sure to check with the manufacturer of whatever cartridge you're using, for their recommended height. If you're using a Stanton 500AL needle you should be using a height setting of more or less 3. As a good rule of thumb when setting your height make sure the tonearm is parallel with the record. To adjust the height, unlock the tonearm base located in the base of the pivot assembly. Rotate the height adjust ring as desired, and always be sure to re-lock the pivot base when you're finished adjusting.

Set the correct weight

At the back of the tonearm is a weight with markings, this is called the counterweight and is what keeps the tonearm balanced. When making this adjustment it is useful to have a blank record on the platter to prevent any damage to your needle. With the cartridge screwed firmly into place, adjust the counterweight until the tonearm floats in a balanced manner above the record. Now here's the tricky part. Hold the counterweight and tonearm still, while you adjust the black plastic ring (the one with the markings on it) until the "0" setting is on top. What you've effectively done now is calibrated your counterweight so that "0" represents your tonearm in a balanced state.

Now adjust the weight according to the cartridge manaufacturers recommended setting. (This is a value in grams) It will vary from brand to brand. A good baseline is 2.5 -> 3.5 grams for a Stanton 500AL cartridge. Ortofon, and other banana-shaped needles usually require slightly more weight. Remember, when calibrating your weight and tonearm height, you're going to get the optimum performace if you follow the recommended settings for your specific cartridge.

What the hell is anti-skating The tonearm on a Technics SL1200 (and many other turntables) is S-shaped. It is S-shaped because this produces the best sound quality and reduces record wear. Because of this S-shape, a lateral force pointing towards the spindle, is created during playback. Anti-skating exists to compensate for this force by creating an (almost) equal, and opposite outward force. So what is the right anti-skating setting to use, I hear you asking. Generally, you should match your anti-skating setting with the amount of needle pressure you're using (see paragraph above) So, if you're using 3 grams of needle pressure, use an anti-skating setting of 3. If you're going to be doing some heavy scratching, for best performace, use an anti-skating setting of 0.

Helpful hint: If you need to, you can adjust the anti-skating setting on-the-fly while a record is playing.

What are those strange dots around the edge of the platter Those perculiar dots around the edge of the platter are actually quite useful. They're used to confirm that the turntable's pitch control calibration is accurate. How? Here's what they do: When the pitch control is set to "0" the green light next to the zero should come on and the row of big dots (2nd from the bottom) should be standing still. Now if you move the pitch control down, you'll see the row of big dots starts to move again. Move it back to zero, and they stand still. Now move the pitch control in the other direction, and you'll see the dots also move in the other direction. The dots are useful because you can tell how accurate a pitch control is. The values of the dots (from the top) are: +6.6%, +3.3%, 0%, -3.3%.

When a row of dots is standing still, check to see which value it corresponds with, and that is then the current pitch control setting. Very useful for a club situation when the turntables (and the pitch controls) are rather well used.

When a turntable has done the mileage, and parts like the pitch control start loosing their accuracy, it is as simple as sending the turntable in for a service. Much like a motor car. As tempting as it is, with wonderful resources like the internet and PC Music around, I would advise you against opening up and attempting to service your own

turntable. When a turntable is disassembled and all the parts laid out on the floor, it looks a lot like a motor car with all it's parts laid out. Unless you really know what you're doing, save yourself the heartache and send it to a professional to be fixed. The most common things that need fixing are the pitch control and the tonearm assembly. If you're looking to buy a second hand turntable, these are the two things to watch out for. The motor is rock solid, and should last you forever, literally!