VIGNETTES OF BENGDA

Notes of our firstimpression of theplace, the people,the naturereserve, eco-tourism & agro-forestry

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Edited byKeithRichardsonSuzanneEwingJohn Studley

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The Care &Share

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VIGNETTES OF BENGDA: NOTES OF OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The purpose of this paper is to provide an in-house summary of our first impressions ofBengda District , and some initial comments on eco-tourism & agro-forestry. This pap€rwill be supplemented later (by Oct 3lst 1999) by a full technical report.

The initial aim of the project was to conduct an ecotourism & agro-forestry baseline studybased on a six weeks project (4 weeks in the field). This had to be drastically revised toa pre-feasibility study based on a four week project (8 days in the field)

The paper has been complied by an editorial team (Keith Richardson, Suzanne Ewing &John Studley) with input from :- Rob Alcoclq Kate Armstrong Glyn Davies, Maria DifinizioMarc Foggin, Patrick Gleave, Peter Gunner, Steven Kempton, Paul Lund, David Rutledge,

AchievementsIn sprte of limited time the team was able to complete the following in Bengda:-1) 5 meetings with officials - Community Profile2) 24ay tour of LNR (Eastern part (Bengda District)3) 6-day tour of LNR (Eastern part @engda & Zhenda Districts)4) Outdoor pursuits studies (Bengda & Dengke)5) Botany studies6) Wildlife studies (Bengda & Dengke)7) Access studies8) Fibre plant collection9) Ecotourism impact assessment & skill base1 0) Micro-finance study1l) Forestry importance assessment12) Conservation Ethics study13) Building studies (Bengda & Dengke)14) lndge impact assessmentI 5) Agro-foresfiy site identification16) lvlapping studies17) Nature reserve legal & ethical studies18) Land use studies19) Media & photographic studies20) Cultural studies21) 6 social surveys (forestry/conservation/lodge impacVtourism impacVskills/micro-finance)

l)Meetings - (with District Secretary & leaders)Ecotourism was explained in detail - they explained that they were not experts but trusted us -generally made us welcome - the current County government emphasis is on :- roadcommunication & tourism. Many of the local people were very involved in upgrading the roadto Yushu (should be ready by August 3 l st 1999). They requested a medical tearn next time, andthey did mention possible help with communication, education (especially in Manzheng) andhydro-electricity (S villages need a 5 KW supply)

Rough Bengda Itinerary Fri 23rd July to Thursday 5th August

.01 Prollle: District

District Secretary* From Interviews JS KRMF

Population (families)-Changge 40 (7)-Manzheng 321(56)-Kaba r21(22)-Bengda 190 (32)-Deka 235 (42)(includes compoundHonze, Beiyu + Razhi)-Yingba r7s (32)-Gerony 165 (31)

1247 (2 FIan Chinese)222 families

Families 222

Family Size 5.6

Nomads (est) 50 tents 280 people

Nomad Yak (est) 2500 (50 x 50)

Cultivated Land 4979mu/331.93ha

Cultivated Landlhh 22.42mu 21.lmu ll.406ha

Cultivated Land % of hh 100% rc0%

Yak (exclude. Nomads) 6182

Yak per hh 27.85

Yak ownership as % of hh 75% 904/o

Forest visitVw 7.05

RoomsArh 5.8

Nomads & FarmersArtisans (full/parttime)OflicialsMonks

47%47%5o/ol%

Wealth index/hh** 56.05

Schools (3)curriculum : TibetanChinese, Maths

Deka (gov)Manzlrcng (village)Yingba (village)

Clinic (1) Deka

Doctor (Tibetan traditional) I

Monasteries 2 Bengda, Manzheng** Based on number of Rooms, mu of land, no. of Yak & estimated income

2 Outdoor pursuitsBengda is seemingly ideal for those seeking a "Total Tibet experience"(adventure/remote/wildlife/botany/culture) and the Luoxu Nature Reserve (LNR) lends itself toponyfrekking, camping & trekking. Potentially access to Bengda is possible by mountain bikeand ra& with Jeep support, and the fastest exit in emergency appears to be by Jeep, via Yushu -Xining - Beijing.Improvements are suggested to horse tack,particularly adjustable stimrps and morepaddingNext steps could include exploring the NWpart of the reserve (in Zhenda District)mountain bike trials and river rafting trialsboth Bengda to Dengke and Zhenda toBengda (especially the Tongjia Gorge)

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3 WildlifeGiven the time constraints it was not possible to survey a complete range of wildlife speciesbut to focus mainly on a bird census. During the course of the project 47 bird species wereidentified in and around LNR , and 12 other species were reported to be present, 4 mammalspecies were observed (including 45 blue sheep) and 9 other species were reported to be present.A large number of nomads and their Yak exist in LNR and they pose a threat to the sustainabilityof the reserve. Ways must be sought to reduce herd size by introducing alternative means ofincome (involve nomads intourism, value-adding to livestock products, medicinal plant sales).It is suggested that all areas above 4,500 m should become core areas of the reserve (under strictprotection)Next step: visit the NW of LNR (Zhenda District)

4 Acces studies5.01 Deneke to BensdaAccess proved to be a major limiting factor, delayrng the ecotourism project and preventingmaterials and human resources reaching their intended goal. Two recce's were conducted toixsess among other things tlre suitability & safety of the road, and its potential for tourist access.The first 30 km of the road to Bengda, is situated mostly on cultivated land and the remainderon pasture & scrub. For most of its length it is very attractive with pleasant views of the Yanglzeand the mountains. There are no dangerous sections, and compared to the road across ErlangShan or Obala it is very easy. It would help truck access to Bengda if the Wuntoo bridge justwest of Dengke was repaired, but most other bridges only require very minor repairs.There were two sections that might pose problems for very inexperienced drivers with largehigh sided vehicles. One was avery small landslide (which could be cleared in 10 mins with aspade) and the other was an overhang. It is true that in places the road did drop 150m to theYanglze, but was minor compared to other drops (e.g. Erlang Shan).The County govemment informed us(2217199) that the road was suitable, for "Jeeps, trucks &bus's with local drivers" and this proved largely to be true. While we were in Bengda, trucks,Jeeps & motor cycles appeared to be the most common forms of motorised transport. Trucks,for instance, were being used to upgrade the Bengda to Yushu road.During PD1995 the forestry team rented a truck to visit nomads at Obala and travelled in theback. One team member chose to fravel back from Bengda to Dengke in the back of the truck.The person said that as far as they were concerned it was safer and less dusty. Another teammember said that they would not hesitate to drive a truck to Bengda. It was unfortunate that the

one Jeep owned by a team member, broke a spring, which exacerbated the situation.4.02 Beneda to YushuWhile the team were in Bengda, many of the local people, and horses were involved inupgrading the road to Zhenda & Yushu. We were informed that the road should be ready by31st August ln emergency there is no question that the easiest and quickest route out of Bengdais by Jeep to Yushu - Xining and aircraft from Xining - Beijing.

5 Agro-Forestry Studies5.01 Plant Fibre collectionSamples of Willow, Poplar, Wheat & Barley were collected for bio-composite studies(Results available later)

5.02 Medicinal Plant $tudy & NurseryIdentificationMost people interviewed (Studley) collectedmedicinal plants both for their own use and forsale. One valuable species of medicinal herbcollected was "Bei-mu" (the small white bulbs ofFritillaria roltlei), which is used for TB, Asthma &lung conditions.A demonsfration medicinal plant nursery could beestablished in the vacant "kitchen garden" to thenorthof the government compound. A steam runsvery close to this site.

"Ber-mu" (FritillaflTownshio. Benoda District

We have been asked to explore the possibility of propagating "worm-grass" (C. Dong chongxia caoT. Yarcha Gomba) [This is a ghost moth caterpillar -usually Hepialidae thitarodes-infested with the mycelium & fructifications of a fungus Corbtceps singnsisl. The RoyalBotanical gardens (Chinese Medicinal Plant Authentication Department) have not studies thisspecies and we need to contact institutions with expertise in entomology & mycolory.To date we are in the process of establishing contact with: The Natural History Museum, CABIBioscience, & the Universities of Bristol, Clemson (USA) Leeds & Reading. It may bepossible to raise the caterpillars or culture the mycelium (which is already being done in someChinese labs). The former would lend itself to a "low-tech, cottage industry" which may provemore sustainable for conditions in Shiqu County (Bengda, Dengke, or Shiqu).

5.03 Agro-forestry Site IdentificationGiven the importance of using the best agricultural land for food (wheat & barley) or possiblyfor high value medicinal plant crops, the only suitable sites for fibre crops are on the risersbetrveen agricultural crops, or above the fields on very steep banks. The only species suitable forthis are poplar or willow species grolvn on a very short rotation.

6 Ecotourism & Eco-lodge Impact Studies6.01 Impact assessmentMost people interviewed (Richardson & Studley) in Bengda had only a limited understandingof "eco-tourism" or the negative impact that mass tourism might bring. A few expressedconcerns over loss of cultural identity and erosion of Tibetan spoken & written language &

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Buddhism. Although the nature reserye is officially designated at national level there is a clearlack of knowledge about this, and most people thought it was only in Zhenda District. Mostpeople were prepared to welcome foreign guests, to Bengda, into their homes, and to allowminor alterations . A few expressed concern over the language difficulties tourism mightpresent. On the basis of the house/family check list prepared during Recce 1998 and theinterview data (Studle, there would appear to be a number of potential homes/families that fitttre criteria for adaption (especially in Honze), but it is suggested (Ewing) that more research andconsultation is required before a model eco-lodge is considered. One suggestion would be foreco-tourists to camp until such time as a lodge is established. Another suggestion would bea phased approach (say 2 western guests/no alterations --->several western guests/eco-lodge)

6.02 Tourism skills baseInterviewees (Richardson) were able to demonstrate between thema variety of existing skills that could be adapted for tourism :-agriculture, cultural skills (poetry, painting, music, singing &dancing), craft skills (spinning, weaving, knitting, carpentry,woodworking, carving, metalwork, dressmaking). They allexpressed an interest in leaming new skills for tourism (i.e. wildlifegurding, accommodation, design & production of crafts)

6.03 Micro-Finance StudyAmong those interviewed (Richardson) there was enthusiasticsupport for micro-finance schemes, based on the Grameen Bankmodel. One family indicated that they would use such a loan to setup a motor cycle repair unit, gtven both road improvements toYushu and the prospect of tourism.

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Honze girl spinning wool

7 Forestry & Conservation Study

7.01 Tree & Forest ImportanceMost ofthose interviewed (Studley) revealed anunderstanding of environmental processes, theneed for conservation & a link betweenBuddhismlFolk Buddhism & conservation. Thereasons gtven for forest importance included:-:water regulation, environmental protection, alink with Buddhism, to ensure the blessing of *local gods, as a wildlife habitat, for beauty & to Eenhance the livestock economy. Three sacredmountains were identifred (tr{yowyee, Nyajidrawgu & Sawara) and the role of localmonasteries in conservation and re-forestationwas noted

7.02 Forest Perceotion & Conservation EthicsFrom the evidence, among those interviewed(Studley) there appears to be a strong conservation ethic based on Buddhism & local folkreligion. Local people, however, only weakly associate themselves with conservation, wildlife& forest. Huntingl of any sort would not be welcomed, and some of the local monasteries have

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been very active in preventing it.* Controlled hunting, possibly by foreigners, is planned in the reserve, for income.

S Local Culture8.0lDialectBengda has its own unique Tibetan dialect e.g.

8.02 Costume & OrnamentaticinBengda girls can be recognized from Shiqu girls because they dont have as many small plaits andthey decorate their hair with flowers and green and white precious stones

8.03 Marriage CustomsBengda has a unique marriage custom where the bride and groom meet half way between theirhomes and the girl canies a pail of water & cow dung to the grooms home.

8.04 Religion

Tibetan Buddhism exists , in Bengda, side by side withfolk religion, and although no one interviewed (Studley)mentioned being a follower of Bon, that does not mean itdoes not exist.There are two monasteries in the District, Bengda(Balege) which is Salrya, and Manztreng which is"Cradayf'(assumedto be Kagyu) Both have more than 50monks and Bengda has a Rimboche.

A young monk in Balege gombareciting Buddhist scripture

In addition there are rurmerous animistic gods (of rocks, fiees, homes, flocks hearth etc) and"Jotta" is the local protecting god of Honze, Beryu and Razhi . According to those interviewed

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(Studtey) it was reported that Jorba would "bless" the people, with good harvests etc if the

forests and wildlife were protected (See Appendix)

There were at least two sacred mountains in Zhenda District (near Puma), Nyowyee, Nyaji

drawgu & Sawara and the people of Bengda commonly visited the Ba who chu valley (N of

Benga village) in LNR when they wanted to "pay their respects" to Buddha.

8. 05 Funeral Arrangementsih. Lu111ur decide which is most auspicious; sky bwial, water burial, ground, or other

8.06 FestivalsE*h y.* B"ngda sends a dance troupe to the Shiqu County Festival, and the Bengda temple

holds a festival each winter.

8.07 Famous PeopleA nun from the lvlanztreng monastery , became a very famous Rimboche (Re-incamate "Lama")

8.08 ArtMost of the local artists paint religious art, but they are able to also produced items suitable

for non Buddhist Westem tourists (e.g. Local Animals & Landscapes)

.The work of two Beneda artists

8.09 CraftsSee 6.02

8.10 Danpe & Music

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Dance and Music play an important part in the cultural life of

Bengda, and each year a dance/music troupe are sent to the Shiqu

Festival.

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S.ll HistoryHistorically Bengda appears to have come under the rule of theKings of Dege & Ling, although it does not appear in anyliterature of westerners known to have visited the region (egTeichman, Rheims, David-Neel, A-K etc) . Downstream fromBengda is the old ferry crossing (Drenda) on the old Yushu toKanding road . Today the ferry has been replaced by a suspensionbridge about 5 hn downstream from Bengda. It is not known if the tferr! crossing and the suspension bridge are one and the same

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place. Various travellers of repute are knownto have crossed the Yangtze at Drenda (Rijnhart, David-Neel, - **Rockill etc). Bengda is famous for its Female Rinboche who wasbased at the Manzheng Gomba. In 1955 Xikang (old name for W.Sichuan) became part of Sichuan Province and Bengda (thenNoI district in Dengke County) came under the authority of GamiTibetan Autonomous Region. In 1976 Deka township was established, and in 1979 DengkeCountywas down-graded, and ShiquCounty was formed. In 1986 the US Upper Yanglze RiverRafting Expedition visited Bengda and in 1990 the Sino-UK Hovercraft expedition passed byBengda District on its way to the source of the Yanglze.

9. Building StudiesBengda District comprises of 6 settlements (Changge, Manzheng, Kaba, Bengda, Yingba, &Gerong) one township (Deka) , two monasteries (Manzheng & Bengda) and a number ofseasonal settlements and nomadic encampments (say 50). Deka includes the governmentcompounds (4) and the villages of Honze, Beiyu & Razhi.

"The Compounds"The govemment compounds (4), which were probably built in the 50's lie adjacent to the mainroadbetween Dengke and Zhenda on a low lying agricultural plateau. They comprise an admincompound that includes government oflices, guest rooms, a communal TV room, and kitchen& eating facilities, a compound containing a shop and school, a compound containing storagefacilities and a square used for dances, and a compound containing homes for governmentofficials.A willow lined irrigation canal runs between the compounds, providing a water supply andthe access roads are uneven and muddy. Elecfiicity appears to be supplied from the hydro supplynear Bengda village, communal TV via a satellite dish, and there is evidence of a telephoneconnection. The admin compound also contains a number of derelict buildings, a derelict stable,a communal loo, and a kitchen garden

Honze, which is in Deka township, comprises about seven houses. Itis situated on a cliff overlooking the Yangtze. The houses are roughlysituated along a West - East axis. The beach below which is accessibleby foot path is suitable for swimming or to launch rafts or kayaks. itaccessible by Jeep along a rough track from the NE or by path fromthe Deka compound

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Honze

BeiyuBeryu comprises of about ten houses, and is situated above the YangtzeandbetweenHonze & Balege Gompa. Most houses include a compoundandmany avegetable garden.A willow lined irrigation canal runs to thesouth of the village. It is accessible by path from the Deka compound

Razhi comprises of about 30 homes, and is the largest village in Deke.It is located in a cleft in the hills to the North ofDeka compound. Accessis via a rough road from the compound and could probably be used bya Jeep. A willow lined irrigation canal [used for washing and water]crosses the road to the south of the settlement and a mani wall (+ godbox) marks the enfrance to the village. Caves and prayer flags are visible

in the cleft behind the village. Razhi has both traditional Tibetan "Ll' and o'L" shaped courtyardhouses stepped into the sloping terrain with access via a series of rough paths.The Bengda Gomba

The Balege Gomba (Bengda) houses about 60 monks and aRinboche (reincarnate lama). It belongs to the Salrya schoolof Buddhism.Each year they hold a festival in the winter.

Bensda VillaseBengda comprises ca 30 homes, with a number of sizable properties with courlyards and walledvegetable gardens. It is approached by road from an offshoot of the main Bengda Zhendarcad,and has a water mill at the lower end of the approach road. A hydro electric plant (120kw) issituatedto the SE ofthe village

Seasonal SettlementsDuring the two tours four settlements were observed Dzam Peng Long (Bengda District)Puma, Galagedog, Rasoltol (ZhendaDistrict) inside the LNR-Dzam Peng Long (near Cunp I ) comprised of ca twenty south facing stone & timber dwellingsclustered adjacent to a water course running into the Ba Who Chu. The buildings wereuninhabited and appeared to be in average condition with a number of missing roofs anddilapidated walls.-Puma (near Camp 3) is about 2km upstream from Donrongda (confluence of rivers) andconsists of 5 houses in very poor condition (one set into rock face). Sunounded by Yak carcasesand rubbish. Blue sheep observed and birdlife excellent.-Galagedog (SE & upstream from Camp 3) consists of 2 houses situated in an open plain (ca4263m) and surrounded by heaps of Yak caxcasses from last years winter.-Rasokol (SE & upsteam from Galagedog) consists of 4 houses situated in a marshy area, oneof which appeared to be inhabited.

10 Eco.Lodge AdaptionThe authors cannot comment on the installation of various appropriate technologies installed inDengke in the course of PD99 as this was led by others, and there would be dangers of

extrapolating the lessons learned from Dengke to Bengda.

11 Interviews & Social SurveysThe Bengda Disfrict Secretary was interviewed by a formal questionnaire and Six social surveyswere conducted in the disrict (forestry/conservatioModge impact/tourism impacVskills/micro-finance) mainly in Honze, Beiyu, Razhi & around Deka compound.For ihe social surveys a mixture of social soience techniques were used including open endedquestions, a check list, Linkert scaling, etcThe interviewers tried to ensure that :a) a representative sample of the population (male, female, young, old, rich, poor etc) waschosen,b) that bias was not introduced andc) that questions were not loaded.We were not able to formally interview the Rinboche (although some of the team met him)orany oftlre monks (who were performing a 30day chant). This requires follow-up

12 Land Use & Mapping StudiesObservation, sketch mapping, GPS, GIS &photography were used to fecord land usepatterns (see full technical report) of allpertinent features. Paper maps were digitized inthe UK and all the data incorporated into a GIS.This is not only a record of the project but willform the basis of future development.

Aviery of Rtzhi, the compound, Beiyu & Balege

13 park status and code of Ethics Gomba (Bengda) and tfie hills of Qinghai in tb backgromd

Discussions were held with both the Dengke Arbitration Judge and Shiqu County ForestryDirector, and the legal status of LNR was established,.and rules relating to access, protection,exploiation etc. Although hunting is seemingly prohibited under Chinese law in nature reserves,some sort of legislation must be in place to facilitate contolled hunting (which is planned inLNR). A draft code of ethics was prepared for LRN visitors

14 Media & Photographic StudiesMaterial was gathered for a publication, and a variety of photographic media (prints slides,video) was used to record pertinent subjects

[5 BoanyDue to time constraints it was not possible to collect, and press a wide range of herbaceousplants, that had been planned. The Botany survey was reduced to making notes in the course ofa six day journey through LNRI

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16 Conclusions

Bengda District appears to be an ideal location for those looking for adventure and a *Total

Tibetan Experience- with unique flora & fauna with potential in LRN for trekking, camping,pony fiekking, & experiencing nomad hospitality and outside the LNR for river rafting, mountainbiking and for experiencing Tibetan culture.

To overcome the problems of acclimatization, to relieve pressure on LNR and to share thebenefits oftourism more widely it is suggested that organized tours should take advantage of thewildlife resources and OP opportunities around Dengke, the Long Chee valley to the north ofDengke, and the Yanglzebetween Dengke and Bengda.

The Dengke to Bengda road appears to be suitable for mountain biking and the river (Bengda

to Dengke) for river rafting.

The nomad population (& Yak) within the LNR appears to be too high and poses a threat tonature conservation. Measures are required that reduce Yak and/or nomad numbers.

Road access is suitable for Jeeps & tucks, and with the upgrading of the Yushu road emergencyevacuation is possible via Yushu.

The local people appear to be open to limited tourism, guests in their homes, minor housemodification, and to possess skills that would adapt well to tourism. There are however, veryreal fears that "mass tourism" will lead to the erosion of spoken & written Tibetan andBuddhism.

Based on lnterview data there appears to be a number of families/homes which fit the eco-lodgeselection criteria (prepared during CSF Recce 98). Several homes in the village of Honze appearto be prime candidates, with a o'guest suite" and spectacular views of the Yangtze.

There appears to be a strong conservation ethic, although means should be considered toassociate people more closely with conservation, forest & wildlife. Sport hunting would appearnot to be welcome.

There appears to be potential in Bengda District for fibre trees and high value medicinalcrops, but not for fibre crops. Cultivatable valley land is very limited and the priority has to befor wheat and barley production.

At present tourism, nature conservation, & research infrastructure appear to be lacking inBengda and Dengke, and as a temporary measure it might be possible to establish a camp sitein Bengda & renovate several of the derelict buildings in the admin compound (to include :- atourism recepion cenfie, a nature reserve office, research office, craft workshops & stables). Theold landlords house inDengfte, if refurbished, has the potential of becoming a tourist receptioncentre.

Given the remoteness of Bengda, and the dangers of exceeding its social & natural"carrying capacity",there appears to be the need to "package" Bengda with other places(i.e Bengda &Zhenda, Bengda & Dengke, Bengda & NW Ganzi).

17 RecommendationsIt is recommended that CSF builds on the findings of PD99, and considers a mini-project inBengda &Zhendaas soon as possible, and addresses some/all of the following:-1) temporary camp sites2) phased guest introduction in Honze Village3) the study of the Zhendapart of the LNR4) the Yanglze (Bengda to Dengke & Zhenda to Bengda) by river raft & kayak5) the Dengke to Bengda road by Mountain Bike6) the upgrading of some buildings7) LRN Demarcation (at 4500m)8) alternative income streams for nomads and herd reduction9) training & awareness raising needs10) improving horse tack (mostly leather, buckles, rivets and marine quality thread)1l) the improvement of communications (Globalstar)12) medicinal plant propagationl3) the raising of "worm grass" or the culturing of Cordyceps sinensis mycelium14) the identification of suitable "Ecotourism" candidate companies in the Westl5) dialogue and advocacy with officialdom (re ecotourism-as-development)I 6) hyro-electricity supply improvement17) health improvementI 8) education improvement19) a follow-up on micro-finance (structuring, committee identification & formation)20) market analysis of ecotourism & agro-forestry

Still waiting for reports from-Maria-Kate-Mel