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INVESTIGATING THE DIFFERENCES IN THE BEACH GRADIENT and SEDIMENT CHARACTERISTICS AT MAZOTOS AND ALAMINOS BEACH (CYPRUS)

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Section a Purpose of the investigation

1- Purpose of the investigation

The purpose of this investigation is to examine the differences in the gradient and sediment characteristics at Mazotos Beach, a shingle beach and Alaminos Beach, a sandy beach.

2- Location and characteristics of study area

Figure 1 The location of our study areas in CyprusAdd map with arrow and labels showing the location +North+Scale

Mazotos and Alaminos Beach have been chosen as our study areas as the variation of coastal processes, sediment size and human impact along these two stretches of coast will provide more opportunities to investigate the factors affecting beach gradient and sediment characteristics.

Figure 2 The characteristics of the two beaches

Add two satellites images. Annotate them with the physical and human characteristics of each area.

3- The 3 aims of the investigationThe following aims are based on the characteristics of the two areas and the geographical theory related to the purpose of the investigation:A- To investigate the differences in beach gradient and sediment characteristics between the two beaches.Furthermore, as it is expected that primary data will show differences on gradient and sediment characteristics between the two beaches, we plan: B- To investigate the coastal processes which affect sediment size and gradient at these two locations.C- To investigate the impact of human activity on the gradient and sediment characteristics of the two beaches.

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Characteristics of Mazotos Beach - included in the main bay between two headlands, Cape Kiti and Petounda Point, Figure

below,

- Wave energy depends on the depth of the sea, which varies along the coast. Along

Kaoullachi Beach, the sea bed is shallow and waves often break before reaching the coast.

However, even if the fetch is short, winds cause destructive waves, usually in winter, which

may move large sediment.

Figure Characteristics of Mazotos Beach

In Cyprus, rivers are seasonal as the climate is Mediterranean, with a long dry season.

However, in the past, they have deposited large amounts of alluvium. This material forms a

low cliff along the coast which is easily eroded by waves, Figure below.

Relict delta

Mazotos Beach

The River Pouzis is a seasonal river which is used for irrigation. In rainy winters it brings new sediment to the coast.

Cape Kiti

Prevailing winds

Petounda Point Mediterranean

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Figure The cliff along Kaoullachi Beach is made of alluvium.

Extract of OS map

Geographical Theory: Factors affecting gradient and sediment characteristicsMazotos Beach:

The largest particles (large pebbles and rocks) are found at the top of the beach. Only the largest

and highest-energy waves, carrying the greatest load and with the greatest competence, reach

this part of the beach. The smallest particles are found at the base of the beach. The top of the beach is called the storm beach because only storm waves and spring tides reach it. The size

of the particles on the beach will determine the steepness of the slope of the beach. The finer

the particle the flatter the beach, and the coarser the particle the steeper the slope.

Large sediment deposited by rivers which forms Kaoullachi Beach.

Clay is easily eroded.

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Wave energy. It takes energy to move particles. Beaches with less wave energy have flatter beaches with finer sediments. Ones with high wave energy have coarser sediments and steeper slopes, as the waves are strong enough to wash away the smaller, lighter particle sizes.

Impact of longshore drift on sediment and gradientAs material is transported along the coast it is eroded by attrition. Particles are reduced in size as they collide with one another. Furthermore, they become more rounded and smoother due to abrasion as they come in contact with other sediment. Roundness is a measure of the sharpness or roundness of sediment.

They also become better sorted as larger material is moved only by high energy waves. Smaller material is transported for a longer distance.

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Sorting refers to the range in sizes in the beach material. Beach material which is well sorted will have most of the pebbles roughly the same size. A poorly sorted material has a wide range of sizes.

Therefore, material moved by LSD decreases in size, become more rounded and better sorted with distance.

However, variations in wave energy along the beach and new sediment inputs may affect these patterns. In addition, human activities, as the building of a groyne or waves breakers, can influence the transport and deposition of material.

Wave refraction

It is very rare for waves to approach a regular uniform coastline, as most have a variety of bays, beaches and headlands. Because of these features, the depth of water around a coast varies and as a wave approaches a coast its progress is modified due to friction from the seabed, halting the motion of waves.

As waves approach a coast they are refracted so that their energy is concentrated around headlands but reduced around bays. Waves then tend to approach coastline parallel to it, and their energy decreases as water depth decreases.

Wave Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening or around a barrier and change direction. The larger the wavelength and the smaller the barrier opening, the greater the waves will appear to bend around the barrier.

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