VI Sailing Itinerary

Day 1 Norman Island, BVI

Your adventure will begin at noon and the British Virgin Islands awaits! The first stop on your BVI sailing itinerary is an easy reach to The Bight at Norman Island . Stop off at "The Caves" for a leisurely snorkel in our warm Caribbean waters or sail on for lunch in "The Bight". *

Norman Island and The Caves (Teasure Point), became famous as the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Caribbean novel, "Treasure Island"

.

By the time you reach Norman Island, chances are your crew will be ready to visit the William Thornton Floating Bar & Restaurant. The "Willy - T" serves lunch from 12:00 pm until 3:00 pm. Dinner is served from 6:30 to 9:00 pm. and the bar is open from 11:30 am, until the last man standing quits ... or the bartender turfs him out!

A sailing landmark in the British Virgin Islands, the William Thornton offers good fun, great food, and wonderful staff. Call on VHF channel 16 for reservations.

If you are a hiking enthusiast, there is a rather challenging trail which begins just behind Pirates Bight restaurant.

Forewarned is forearmed, so keep your kids out of the Willy -T bar once things start rocking if you'd rather they didn't discover what a body shot (islands style) is! Anchor in The Bight or pick up a mooring ball. For more quiet anchorage use Kelly’s Cove on port side as you enter the bay. Have a great evening and wind down from your flight! Tomorrow you'll be sailing the British Virgin Islands!

Day 2 Norman Island, Peter Island, BVI

Ah Paradise! The sun is rising, the frigate birds are soaring overhead and hopefully you didn't overdo it at the Willy -T last night. You are ready to start your British Virgin Islands sailing adventure!

The "Indians" provide a great snorkelling and scuba site just a stone's throw away! If you're not up to physical stuff yet, proceed to Peter Island and save the Indians for your last day of sailing.

At Peter Island, set your anchor at Dead Man's Bay. Enjoy a lovely swim at this world class beach or partake in a sumptuous buffet lunch at the beach bar. Its expensive by some standards, but well worth it if you bring a healthy

appetite! Their deserts are a gastronomic delight!

Grab your snorkel gear and check out the sea grass beds right below your yacht. With any luck, you will spot a sea turtle or two, lazily snacking on the sea grass. Turtles are harmless and easily spooked by curious humans, so please keep your distance and let them dine in peace.

Despite what some (misguided) sailors may have you believe, Dead Man's Bay at Peter Island is not recommended as an overnight anchorage. Sudden wind shifts and swells are common and can make overnight anchoring miserable. Sailing is fun! Don't spoil your BVI yacht charter holiday with sleepless nights! At Sprat Bay, you can refuel if necessary, pick up ice and there is also a full service dive center operated by Randy Kiel of Paradise Watersports. If you want to dive the wreck of the Rhone but would like a real pro to take you ... look for Randy!

There are a couple of little known anchorages on Peter Island which, depending upon weather conditions, are very pleasant for an overnight stop.

Salt Island is fun to investigate. There's a natural salt pond located inland and a very tiny settlement of British Virgin Islanders who used to collect sea salt. Unfortunately, the last remaining resident, Norwell Durant, passed away in 2004.

The Indians

Salt island, BVI is home to the Wreck of the Rhone and is a favourite dive site. The Rhone was a British Royal Mail steamship which foundered during a hurricane in the BVI in 1867. The British Virgin Islands and the Rhone were made famous in 1977 as the location for the movie, "The Deep". This is an interesting wreck and much of the Rhone can still be clearly identified. Several NPT moorings are available at the dive site or you may pick up a mooring ball at Lee Bay. No anchoring is permitted in any of the National Parks. Try to get there early to ensure a mooring is available*.

For the evening, sail to Cooper Island and pick up a mooring ball. There are approximately 40 mooring balls at Cooper Island which you pay for at Cooper Island Beach Club bar which offers a very nice open air restaurant and bar as well as good snorkeling at Cistern Point. Cooper Island is certainly worth a stop. Plan to get there early in order to get a mooring ball. Do Not Anchor! Many bareboat sailors who've attempted to anchor in Manchioneel Bay have found themselves adrift in the middle of the night due to wind shifts and poor holding. If there are no moorings available, sailing to Trellis Bay or any safe anchorage is your best option. The Cooper Island Beach Club has a very nice restaurant and bar too!

BVI Folk Lore

The following "rumour" is firmly entrenched in British Virgin Islands sailing lore and has been handed down as fact:

When sailing past Peter and Salt Islands on your way to Cooper, you'll see a large, high rock formation to your starboard side called Dead Chest Island. You may have heard the song, "15 men on a dead man's chest ... yo ho ho and a bottle of rum". In buccaneer days, a dead man's chest referred to a coffin. From a distance (and depending upon the number of pain killers you've ingested) Dead Chest can look a little like a coffin ... I suppose??? (Bit of a stretch really, but if you squint ...)

British pirate; Edward Teach, or Thatch (nobody is certain of his name) a.k.a. Blackbeard, sailed the British Virgin Islands and made his home in Soper's Hole between 1715 and 1718. When faced with a mutinous crew, Blackbeard concocted a devious plan. His scurrilous scheme promised the crew a feast on "Dead Chest Island". He sent 15 of his most dissatisfied men ashore with a keg of rum and plans for preparing their BBQ. Blackbeard then hauled anchor and left the men to perish!

Aside: Blackbeard's men had to be pretty dumb or at the very least, pretty drunk to believe that their mangy faced captain was planning a feast on Dead Chest. Its just a great big rock sticking out of the water and one of the least inviting of any of the British Virgin Islands.

It is said that the bones of 14 men were found on Dead Chest Island, BVI some years later. There was nothing to protect the ill fated sailors from the scorching, Caribbean sun, no fresh water and no food. One

man reportedly tried to swim to Peter Island. (Which is where a more kind hearted captain would have planned his BBQ!) Alas, the poor fellow's bones were discovered on the beach named in his honour at "Dead Man's Bay"!

Note: When sailing around Great Camanoe and notice on your chart of the British Virgin Islands, "Throw Away Wife Bay" , don't ask ... I don't know!

Day 3 - Virgin Gorda, The Baths & Gorda Sound, BVI

One of the most awesome sights to behold when sailing the British Virgin Islands are "The Baths" at the southern tip of Virgin Gorda. There are conflicting theories as to how these incredible rock formations came to be. Some say The Baths resulted from a meteor shower, others credit volcanic activity. There appears to be some evidence of lava flows which could have happened centuries after a meteor shower ... but I'm a yacht charter broker, not a geologist!

O.K., so The Baths are just a pile of "really big rocks" on a beach ... but when sailing up to them, you'll understand. They really are simply magnificent!

Snorkelling is pretty good at The Baths too. There are marvelous Elkhorn coral formations and plenty of nooks and crannies to explore. Don't let the ground swells bother you. Just let the water move you back and forth and "don't fight the flow". Let it help take you where you want to go. Time your movements to coincide with the swells to make headway.* Done correctly, you won't be swept into the rocks and will only have to make minor course adjustments, using your fins. Watch how the fish do it, then copy them. Keep an eye on your buddy and pay attention to your surroundings.

* When swimming in swells, use the swells to help propel you. Time your movements by kicking and steering yourself ONLY during the "flow" (forward movement) and rest during the "ebb" (backward movement). Attempting to make headway while waves are ebbing is futile. You will only manage to exhaust yourself.

ONLY strong swimmers and experienced snorkellers should attempt to explore the reefs at The Baths when the swells are up. Even then, be very careful! DO NOT attempt to take your dinghy into the beach area! (Dinghy docks are provided). If you have only one day to see The Baths during your sailing vacation and that one day window is not quite perfect, proceed to Spanish Town at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and take a taxi to The Baths. From shore, you will be gratified to see why you made that choice. The swells can be deceptive when sailing, but from the beach, you'll see a more accurate perspective.

The Baths are not an appropriate place to test your physical limits. Use common sense when determining accessibility to the beach. On calm days and with minimal wave action, it is a marvelous spot for snorkellers and swimmers of all ages and abilities.

Long Bay, Virgin Gorda, for a late afternoon cocktail or if you are still feeling active some more water sports in the clear blue sea. Take a hike on a nature trail to Savannah Bay, one of the most stunning beaches in the BVI. After lunch, sail to Eustatia Sound where you can explore the yachters paradise around Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock.

When sailing to Gorda Sound in the afternoon, you will find several restaurants and beach bars to enjoy. If you need supplies, Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and the Bitter End Yacht Club cater to the boating community, offering provisioning, fuel, water and ice.

Day 4 - Gorda Sound, BVI

Spend a day in the North Sound, swimming and enjoying the surroundings, (the island is gorgeous), go snorkelling or scuba diving, rent a Hobbie Cat at the Bitter End Yacht Club and have fun terrorizing your neighbours. You may want to enjoy lunch on your boat or visit any of the nearby restaurants. (They are all very nice).

Day 5 & 6 – Anegada, BVI

Distinct from all other islands in the BVI archipelago (which are mainly volcanic and very hilly in origin), Anegada is all but flat. It could be said that the whole island, which is little more than 10 miles long and only 28' above sea level (at its highest point), is one truly magnificent beach!

You won't want to miss the Anegada Flamingos at the salt pond, which, after a couple of failed attempts, were successfully reintroduced to their natural habitat in 1992. There is easy access to "Flamingo Pond" across the road from Neptune's Treasure. (See map). When anchored between Pomato Point and Setting Point, you can often hear the birds honking at sunrise. A truly uplifting experience!

Flamingos are very shy birds, so walk softly, keep voices to a whisper and please, don't attempt to interact with or feed them when you go to visit. Bring plenty of film, casual attire and you might be wise to bring a spare pair of washable shoes when visiting the Flamingos!

This map is copyrighted and may not be used on the web without prior written consent.

Population estimate - 200 Square Miles - 21.5 Highest Elevation - 28' Mooring Buoys - (10) Setting Point

The legendary, "Anegada Reef" surrounding this tiny island oasis, has been the demise of hundreds of unsuspecting ships and pleasure boats sailing the British Virgin Islands. From the water, this reef is pretty much imperceptible ... but a photo is worth a thousand words. Now that's a reef!

Anegada Reef

This absolutely fabulous barrier reef (one of the longest in the Caribbean) begins just north of the island at Ruffling Point on the westernmost point of Anegada and continues along the entire northern coastline. It extends several more miles from the north east shore in a semi circular sweep, south, south east towards Virgin Gorda.

Since Columbus stumbled upon the British Virgin Islands in 1493, the Anegada Reef has commanded a great deal of respect from BVI sailors aware of its reputation. It is approximately 18 miles long and has claimed hundreds of shipwrecks, yachts and small boats as well as the lives of untold seafarers over the centuries. Even in recent years and despite numerous navigational aids such as GPS (Global Positioning System) as well as reasonably accurate charts ... this very formidable reef still wins new victims from time to time.

Aerial Photo of the North West Coast and the Anegada Reef

With a maximum elevation of 28' above sea level, Anegada is very difficult to see from aboard a yacht, even from a relatively short distance away. In fact, there are certain times of the day when you cannot see this island at all due to healthy wave action and swells. If sailing from North Sound on Virgin Gorda, plan to leave around 8:00 a.m. & use the sun to your best (visual) advantage.

As you approach from the southern side of the island, hundreds of submerged coral heads and shallow water make access to Setting Point anchorage an interesting challenge. Sailors would be well advised to brush up on your navigational skills and be confident before setting sail. Better yet, first time sailors might want to follow an accomplished skipper who knows his way! GPS is highly recommended as a secondary aid to navigation ... but nothing beats being able to read a chart and sailing your course accordingly.

Coral heads are everywhere!

Approach to Anegada, BVI

If you wish to sail to Anegada, you may need to request a waiver from your charter company. Each company has different requirements. Based upon information supplied in your sailing resume, the operations manager may approve your trip or recommend that you hire a skipper for this particular passage.

As you see can in these aerial photos, blue water ends rather abruptly at reef's edge and hundreds of coral heads dot the southern shore. Though reasonably well marked, close attention to your charts, compass headings and entrance markers is required to successfully negotiate the entrance to Setting Point anchorage. Nothing is easily seen until you are quite close.

North East Reef is clearly defined!

Day 7& 8 Beef Island & Marina Cay, BVI

In the afternoon, set sail for either Trellis Bay, Beef Island or Marina Cay, south east of Great Camanoe and west of Virgin Gorda.

Trellis Bay is a protected harbour and home of "The Last Resort" restaurant and cabaret owned by BVI legend, Tony Snell. Dinner at The Last Resort is quite enjoyable (particularly the roast beef) and the after dinner show is very amusing. For a less active evening, Pusser's is located at Marina Cay, offering typical North American dishes.

Mooring Balls - (29) - Pay for moorings at The Last Resort on Bellamy Cay, owned and operated by British Comedian, Tony Snell.

Trellis Bay Entrance: The "No Go Zone" is clearly marked by a series of 8, yellow flashing markers. Vessels not exceeding 10' in height may traverse the No Go Zone safely.

Round the cardinal buoy at Sprat Rock, stay between the yellow flashing markers and 2 green channel markers. Although it may not "appear" to be deep enough, the minimum depth is 12' in this zone.

Yachts with masts exceeding 50' must request permission to enter Trellis Bay. Call the Civil Aviation Department on VHF Channel 16.

This quirky little enclave (within walking distance of the airport) consists of D' Best Cup coffee shop, De Loose Mongoose Restaurant, Trellis Bay Market, Boardsailing BVI and Internet Cafe as well as a tiny group of artists including Aragorn's Studio.

Trellis Bay Market is very handy for bareboat charter guests to restock grocery provisions, buy ice, film or just hang out and chat with their friendly staff.

Flukes Maps & Art Shop

Trellis Bay Market - Provisioning

Hertz & North Sound Express

D' Best Cup Cafe & Gift Shop

While anchored in Trellis Bay, BVI ... rent a car from Hertz and take a tour of Tortola. Views from Ridge Road are spectacular and you'll get a very different perspective of Tortola than from your yacht!

D' Best Cup coffee shop offers some of our finest coffees & espresso available in the Islands. You may buy fresh ground coffee beans or just sit and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of coffee on their outdoor patio. You might also want to try a tostada or a good, old fashioned hot dog with a yummy milk shake!

Adventures BVI

Trellis Bay Cyber Cafe

Adventures in the BVI on Beef Island is owned and operated by Jeremy Wright. Jeremy teaches windsurfing (and promises success) to all comers. He also rents windsurfing equipment, surf boards, kayaks, kiteboarding equipment and SUP's. Stop by for breakfast lunch or dinner for some casual Caribbean style dining!

Dockside at Aragorn's Studio

Carib Canoe "Gli Gli" under repair

Aragorn Dick-Reid is a remarkably diverse & talented artist who passionately pursues his interests as they evolve. Aragorn thinks outside the box ... even by the standards of most multitalented artists who tackle several mediums!

Aragorn's Studio - Beef Island

Aragorn's Arts & Crafts Center

Beef Island Craft Shop

Aragorn's Studio itself is just one example of this man's artistic flair. His shop is exquisitely decorated, in keeping with the products for sale. Tree stumps and branches are integral to his display, highlighting various natural products such as hand woven baskets, lamp shades, calabash hand bags and many other intriguing and artful items.

Aragorn is passionately devoted to the Carib Indian culture and their history. He has made it his life's work to keep both alive through various art forms.

Perhaps Aragorn's most engaging works are his copper & metal sculptures which are absolutely fabulous and available for sale at the studio. He will also design and make special pieces by commission.

At Aragorn's Arts & Crafts Center on Beef Island, local artists are invited to come and use the facilities he has supplied to throw pots, carve, weave, paint, learn or teach others!

The 35' Carib Canoe, "Gli Gli" is just one of the many projects Aragorn conceived and brought to life! Be sure to stop at Aragorn's Studio in Trellis Bay, Beef Island ... perhaps you'll catch the artist at work!

De Loose Mongoose Restaurant and Beef Island Guest House are located at the southern end of the beach. Dinghy up to their dock for a hearty breakfast, relax in a hammock, take a walk along the beach to Sprat Point, or play a little water volleyball!

De Loose Mongoose Restaurant

The Last Resort, Bellamy Cay, BVI

Centered in Trellis Bay, British Virgin Islands ... lies tiny Bellamy Cay, upon which sits "The Last Resort" owned by Tony Snell. I've enjoyed a few evenings at The Last Resort offering dinner with an amusing show.

Trellis Bay Beach - Beef Island

Whatever your plans, be mindful that you may become sidetracked! Even if you hadn't planned to, its easy to spend a whole day!

Day 9 & 10 – Guana Island & Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Set sail for the incomparable Monkey Point at Guana Island. Enjoy a leisurely day at the beach, pack a picnic lunch and take advantage of some of the best snorkelling in the BVI. This is a really fabulous spot and a MUST SEE!

In the afternoon, sailing to Cane Garden Bay, Tortola. On

the left next to the dinghy dock and the Paradise Club, Quito's Gazebo has good food and entertainment by its owner, local recording star Quito Rymer.

The coconut/banana bread and the big breakfast are

popular in the morning at the Big Banana, a/k/a Paradise Club (495-4606), as well as rotis, snapper, and M.O.M burgers for lunch, and coconut shrimps and lobster grilled in foil for dinner. At its cozy bar, people love the Big Banana house drink (rum, Bailey's, coconut cream and a banana).

With a special beach ambiance and very affordable rooms throughout the year, Rhymer's Beach Hotel (495-4639) is very popular and is a center of activity as well as the place to catch a taxi.

Its famous Beach Bar and Restaurant (495-4639), open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, has an excellent breakfast (especially the French toast), great conch fritters and barbecue ribs, with a Saturday and

Cane Garden Bay

Tuesday night buffet and a lobster special on Thursdays with a live steel band. And such lovely waitresses!

Rhymer's has a grocery and gift shop, a laundromat and beauty salon in back, showers ($3), ice (cubes and block), and the bay's only gas station. Pay your mooring fee here.

Behind Stanley's on a little dead-end street, Netty's Diner (495-9001) specializes in local dishes,

including three daily lunch specials such as "doved" pork, which is browned first and cooked in a sauce. Bread, cakes and tarts (by order) are made fresh every morning. Dinner dishes include stewed lobster and sauteed conch in butter sauce. Pictured is Netty's daughter Janelle with a plate of "doved" pork.

Another favorite local hangout, Stanley's (495-9424), due to Hurricane

Georges, lost its famous tire swing which used to hang over the beach

from a palm tree (seen here snapped-off). Open for lunch and dinner, popular items for lunch are

burgers (don't miss the "Cheese-burger in Paradise"), lobster, tuna sandwiches and fried chicken, and, for dinner, baby back ribs and lobster boiled and served with butter sauce. A pina colada place!

Elm Beach Bar (494-2888), just off the beach before Stanley's, serves sodas, cold beer ($2) and cocktails

($3) such as pina colada and strawberry daiquira. On Friday and Sunday, the barbecue--oh so fine! Known as a jumpin' place as well as for its food, Myett's conch chowder is very popular. A varied menu includes vegetarian pasta and grilled chicken and mahi-mahi burgers as well as beef. Chef Kitt's recipe for Myett's rice and peas accompaniment won first place in the Festival Village competition.

Bartender and owner "Sandman" recommends Myett's Delight, a delicious frozen concoction of dark rum blended with guava, mango, papaya and coconut juices. Myett's Sundowner, a refreshing off-the-beach drink, has the same tropical juices with local Callwood rum, nutmeg and cinnamon.

A friendly, beach front restaurant/bar at the south end of the bay is owned by "Poui," a fisherman who catches yellowtail snapper, king mackerel, and triggerfish.

Da Wedding, open for lunch and dinner with daily menu changes, specializes in fresh fish grilled for dinner and served with "vegans" such as corn on the cob and rice and peas.

Don't miss the "fish fry" on Wednesday evenings, which includes live entertainment and chicken, ribs and mutton as well as conch soup and "goat water," a curried stew.

Ice Cream. At the Big Bamboo/Paradise Club is the A&S Ice Cream Parlour.

Seafood Market. All caught in BVI waters, Cane Garden Bay Seafood Superette (495-9455) has fresh local seafood, including lobster, conch, kingfish, yellowtail snapper, grouper, tuna, swordfish, as well as groceries, fresh bread, spirits, wine, beer and sodas including Puerta Rican Pina pineapple soda.

Variety Store. A charming little bar/cafe for drinks, Columbus Sunset Store & Bar (495-4751) has a variety of items needed by the traveller.

Day 11, 12 & 13 – Jost Van Dyke, BVI

GREAT HARBOR is next.

A T-shirt at Corsairs boasts, "great food, great drinks, Great Harbour"!

One of the things I love about the BVI is that each island is so different! Jost Van Dyke is certainly a world apart from any of the other British Virgin Islands!

Great Harbour is the center of activity and seems to be growing in leaps and bounds. The number of beach bars in this popular anchorage has certainly expanded in recent years! It appears there may soon be two more added to our BVI photo gallery!

As you approach the island from the harbour, note the government dock centrally located on the beach. After anchoring, dinghy into the dock, turn left and walk along the beach to Rudy's Mariner Inn.

Rudy's Mariner Inn

Methodist Church

Rudy's is a mainstay in this popular, BVI anchorage, with lodging and a small store in back, offering basic provisions. Just to the right of Rudy's stands the charming JVD Methodist Church bearing a sign saying, "All are Welcome".

Corsairs Bar & Restaurant

Vinny of Corsairs

A relatively new addition to Jost Van Dyke is Corsairs Beach Bar & Restaurant. Corsairs owner, Vinny is a very personable fellow who drives a vintage US army jeep. Vinny is quick with a smile and a story or two. Your chef will whip up a great meal while your enjoy some yummy island drinks! Corsairs is open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Ali Baba's Restaurant

Customs & Immigration

Wendell's World

Another Beach Bar

Ali Baba's Restaurant is also open 7 days a week and specializes in terrific, local Caribbean dishes!

In front of the government dock is Customs & Immigration and the local police station. If you are planning to sail to St. John or St. Thomas, USVI, stop at Jost Van Dyke before leaving the British Virgin Islands. Do your Customs & Immigration clearance here rather than on Tortola as there's not likely to be a line up. Even if there is ... its a nicer spot to hurry up and wait!

Foxy's BVI Bar & Restaurant: Tessa and Foxy Callwood are known by sailors and yachtsmen the world over.

Together, this dynamic duo have built a fabulous business which has become one of the main attractions to this harbour and these islands! See Photos of Foxy's!

Bun Road is beside Customs & Immigration and will take visiting sailors directly to Nature's Basket Grocery Store & Christine's Bakery. Renee, the charming young lady at Nature's Basket goes out of her way to be of assistance. At Christine's, you'll enjoy freshly baked breads and sticky buns!

Nature's Basket Grocery Store

Christine's Bakery

Ice House

New Horizon Ferry

If you are low on ice, stop off at the Ice House on Bun Road, opposite Christine's Bakery. The New Horizon Ferry Service, (284) 495-9278, picks up and drops off in Soper's Hole if you are staying on Tortola!

Jost Van Dyke is a definite "must" on your BVI sailing itinerary!

Tessa & Foxy Callwood

Wow ... Great Harbour! British Virgin Islands

Great Harbour is a fascinating melting pot of British Virgin Islanders & visiting sailors who managed to drift into this perfect BVI beach and stay a while!

Jost Van Dyke offers several places to enjoy fresh seafood and the lobster is incredible ... but then again, Foxy Callwood of Foxy's Bar & Restaurant in regards to entertainment. The barefooted man with the saucer eyes, bowl chest and engaging grin, delights in strumming his guitar and playing amusing songs for his restaurant guests.

The bar and restaurant sprang from humble beginnings, down the beach from its current location and beside the quaint little Methodist Church in Great Harbour.

On to White Bay, Jost Van Dyke. The British Virgin Islands possess several Caribbean jewels ... and White Bay, Jost Van Dyke is one!

This pristine beach is perhaps the most spectacular in the BVI and is exactly what most people picture when dreaming about a Caribbean vacation.

There's a reef running nearly the full length of beach, just a few hundred feet offshore providing calm waters and protection for swimmers of all ages and abilities. A convenient break in the reef provides access for yachts to anchor safely. You can usually see a clear path, but refer to your charts or cruising guide for guidance.

Ivan Chinnery, a fixture in White Bay and all 'round great guy, is the proud owner of Ivan's Stress Free Bar and Restaurant. From top to bottom, Ivan's is decorated with shells collected off the beach!

Ivan's Restaurant

Ivan Chinnery

After a terrible flood in November, 2003, Ivan showed me some pictures of extensive water damage his property sustained. When I commented that I supposed that day wasn't exactly "stress free" in White Bay, Jost Van Dyke! Ivan grinned broadly and said, "You got it sister." "In fact "stress" was free that day!"

Ivan's Stress Free Bar - Jost Van Dyke

Shell Spaceman

Relaxed surroundings at Soggy Dollar Bar, Sandcastle, provides a wonderfully, laid back atmosphere while their personable staff supply warm and friendly service. BVI bar games are plentiful and getting that darned ring on the hook has often been my most daunting task for an entire day!

Soggy Dollar Bar

The Sandcastle

This little slice of paradise is absolutely gorgeous! Sun worshippers from all over the world have touted White Bay, Jost Van Dyke as the quintessential, "picture post card beach!" Next door to Soggy Dollar, is Gertrude's Restaurant & Boutique offering great painkillers, snacks and gifts.

White Bay Beach

Gertrude's Bar & Boutique

There must be more bars and restaurants here than any other British Virgin Islands! One might expect to see a lot of tourists and visiting sailors bobbing and weaving their way along the beach ... but most manage to stay out of trouble!

Beside Gertrude's is Jewel's Snack Shack and it is one of the few places in Jost Van Dyke where you can get yourself a decent hot dog!

Jewel's Snack Shack

Suprette

Left of Jewel's, is White Bay Suprette where you'll find sun tan lotion, film, batteries (you'll definitely want to take pictures), basic provisions, soda, beer, wine, liquor and snacks to top up your provisions.

Stop off at One Love Bar & Grill and meet one of Foxy Callwood's sons, Seddy. When you first see the restaurant, you may wonder if you've taken a wrong turn and ended up at Bomba's Shack on Tortola! However, on closer inspection, you'll note that whomever decorated One Love Grill is a little more of an "A" type personality than Bomba ... who seems to have a flair for ummmm .... asymmetrical design!

One Love Bar & Restaurant BVI

Sea & Land Adventure Center

At the far end of the beach BVI Sea and Land Adventures offers water sports equipment rentals, and 4 wheel ATV's for rent.

Day 14 – St. Thomas, VI

Sail for Magens Bay, St. Thomas.

Choosing the absolute best beach on the island of St Thomas is no easy task, as there are many of

them worth considering as such. Ask some folks, however, and they'll tell you that Magens Bay

has the best, which is hard to argue. Both breathtaking and beautiful, Magens Bay is not only

considered by many to be the top St Thomas beach, but also the top United States Virgin Islands

beach. For one, it's sand is incredibly soft and pebble free, which encourages barefoot walks

galore. Also ideal are the Magens Bay waters, which besides being attractively hued, are also

alluringly calm. It might not be the most ideal spot for surfing, but if you like swimming, then

Magens Bay St Thomas is a perfect fit.

Wonderful Magens Bay Beach is found on the north shore of St Thomas island, and since it a

public park, it is very much accessible to all who want to enjoy it. As you descend on the beach

from the road above, you'll instantly notice just how breathtaking it is. It's not uncommon to see

a wedding in order on the beach once you arrive, and it's easy to see why couples like to get

married here. It truly is an ideal setting for romantic ceremonies. Picnickers are also known to

take advantage of the stunning Magens Bay Beach setting, as do plenty of other beach goers,

specifically during the high season. Besides being great for swimming, Magens Bay is also prime

for snorkeling, so you might do a bit of both if you are heading here. Should you be wondering

just why Magens Bay Beach is so ideal for swimming and snorkeling, it's because it is protected

by two peninsulas. These peninsulas help to keep strong waves at bay, discouraging beach

erosion in the process.

Magens Bay St Thomas offers visitors plenty in the way of convenience and comfort. You can

expect to find plenty of restrooms and showers on hand, as well as dressing areas and equipment

rentals. Lifeguards are present on Magens Bay Beach, though given the calm waters here, you

hopefully won't need to rely on their services. It is nice to have them around, however, especially

if the kids are taking to the water. Sailboat rentals are available for those who wish to take the

calm waters in a different fashion. Before, during, or after your Magens Bay Beach visit, you can

always hit a nearby bar or restaurant to add some diversion. Perhaps you'll be up for grabbing a

cocktail made with top of the line Virgin Islands Rum.

Approach:

Easy enough, with no hidden hazards around the entrance, although it can be a beat to windward

to make it all the way up to the southeast corner of the beach. As you get close to the beach, be

aware that there is a substantial sandbar in the center of the bay, 50-70 yards off the beach, with

only 3-6 feet of water.

Anchoring/Mooring:

If you have a shallow-draft boat and the swell is down, you could conceivably anchor anywhere

outside the swimming area that runs the full length of the beach, avoiding the shallow sandbar in

the middle. But most boats gravitate to the southeast corner of the bay, for better depth and

access to the dinghy channel/landing area on that end of the beach. Holding is excellent in 5 to

35 feet of water and deep sand. Sail on to Charlotte Amalie for the night if unable to stay in Magen’s

Bay. Spend the next day sightseeing in the town and picking up Jamaican patties by the airport.

Ashore:

Stroll the beach, go for a run or swim, and when you work up an appetite (or thirst), take care of

that at the small beach bar and restaurant. This beach can get periodically quite busy with day

trip traffic from the cruise ships over in Charlotte Amalie, but if you just wait a bit, they will all

disappear in the afternoon just as quickly.

Don't Miss:

Walking the full length of this shore, almost a mile of perfect white sand and excellent

swimming. Pull up a towel under a palm and soak it all in. This truly is the stuff Caribbean

dreams are made of.

Day 15 - Culebra

Early morning sail to a “Culebra”(20 miles downwind). Enjoy a fun day at sea. Isla de Culebra

is an 11 square mile, unspoiled beauty of an island. Attracted by its seclusion, its spectacular

miles and miles of stunning beaches, is the quaint town of Dewey. The snorkeling and dive sites

are possibly some of the Caribbean’s best! This is a perfect destination to spend a few days on

your sailing charter vacation. You will have no choice but to enjoy the natural beauty of this

island. Home to only about 2,000 residents, who live strictly by “island time,” this island has no

resorts or nightclubs to entertain you. The sleepy town of Dewey is comprised of a ragtag

assortment of two-story wooden lean-tos and a handful of bars and restaurants, whose owners

may or may not chose to open them on any given day.

Since 1909, the entire coastline and one-third of the interior has been designated the Culebra

National Wildlife Refuge, which is run by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. These protected

lands are home to endangered sea turtles, including the leatherback turtle, and some 50,000 sea

birds.

There are three roads on Culebra – all leading to a beach. The most famous and perhaps most

spectacular in the entire Caribbean is Playa Flamenco.This usually deserted, wide, smooth beach

is made up of white sand as fine as powder sugar. If hiking is not your thing, you can take a

dinghy ride through the mangrove swamps off Esnenada Honda near Dewey. Or, anchor your

sailing charter in either Dakity Harbor or Bahia de Almadovar for a day of snorkeling.

There is a reason the Puerto Rican tourist office calls Culebra, “the fishiest place in Puerto

Rico!”. Some of the Caribbean’s best diving and snorkeling is on Culebra, whose reefs are also

protected by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Pristine coral reefs and clear calm waters

provide an amazing opportunity to observe barracuda, stingrays, parrotfish, trumpet fish, blue

tangs, deep purple sea fans, and a variety of colorful coral, as well as a chance to swim with sea

turtles.

If Flamenco’s mile-and-a-half stretch of cinematic white sand and turquoise water grows old, try

hiking 24 minutes to Carlos Rosario Beach, a premier snorkeling spot. The snorkeling and

scuba diving around Culebra are truly outstanding. Hard and soft corals abound in the shallows

and magnificent reefs encircle the island. You spend the night anchored at Dakity Reef.

Day 16 - Vieques

Twenty-one miles long and three to four miles wide, many cruisers consider the bays, coves, and

beaches of this island the best of all Virgin Island anchorages. Due to its recent history as a U.S.

bombing practice site, the island has been untouched by developers, (even though other than St.

Croix, is the largest island in both the U.S. and British Virgin Islands.) With a population of only

8,000 human residents living in the center part, the island is also home to a large herd of roaming

goats, a few scrawny cattle, and wild paso fino horses. Most locals travel by horseback. The

main town is Esperanza, with its lovely white seaside promenade, is lined with picturesque

restaurants. One of the highlights to visiting Vieques is a night time trip to Mosquito Bay, said to

contain the highest degree of bioluminescence in the world. The huge concentrations of micro-

organisms give off an eerie glow when disturbed by movement in the water. If the waters are

calm, you can dinghy over from your anchorage in Ensenada Sun Bay. Otherwise, it is worth

hiring one of the many private tour operators from Esperanza to take you on a night dive, kayak

or electric boat trip to experience this remarkable phenomenon.

Day 17, 18 & 19 – St. Croix!

St. Croix Factoids:

Population - 50,139

28 miles long and 7 miles wide

Set sail for Green Cay Marina on St. Croix. Take advantage of their pay 2 nights and stay for 3

rate. They have 154 slips at $2 per foot. Latitude 17° 45' 31" Longitude -64° 40' 13"

Sail to St. Croix (35 miles). St Croix is the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, and with so much

to do, you will want to spend a couple days exploring this unique Caribbean island which has

retained much of its Danish character.

What better way to start your St. Croix experience but in the charming town of Christiansted.

With its quaint restaurants, breezy courtyards, and unique shopping opportunities, you can easily

spend an entire day “getting lost” in this town. “Crucian Gold”, on Kings Warf, sells Crucian

bracelets exclusively designed and manufactured by a crucian—a great memento of your trip to

Christiansted. Tucked in among the shops you will discover some wonderful restaurants. Dine

outside in the balmy air in a courtyard flanked by stone columns, Danish arches, tress and

gardens. Enjoy the view from your table on a hilltop verandah or enjoy the homey atmosphere of

a local deli, café, barbeque or burger stop. Munch on conch fritters or crack open clawless

Caribbean lobster. There is food for all taste and occasions.

For the history buffs, the old town of Christiansted boasts five historical sites within walking

distance of the waterfront, incl. Fort Christiansted (built in 1734)—where you must not miss

visiting the spooky underground dungeons.

At the southern end of the island is the Cruzan Rum Distillery. You can tour the distillery and

watch the workers make rum. Don’t forget to visit the tasting bar where specialty rum drinks are

concocted daily. From there venture to Fredericksted rainforest or visit the Whim Greathouse (a

restored Greathouse from the 1700’s).

For those who prefer to spend their time in the Caribbean underwater, Buck Island (only 4.5

miles from Christiansted Harbor) offers a popular snorkel trail at Turtle Beach. Buck Island is

operated by the National Park Service, and Turtle Beach has been voted one on of the world’s

most beautiful beaches by the National Geographic. The guided tour of the underwater trial at

Turtle Beach is a snorkeler’s dream come true as you will be surrounded by a variety of colorful

coral, angle fish, and crustaceans

Day 20 – Sail for St. Thomas, VI Spend the night in Christmas Bay across from St.

Thomas.

Day 21 – Cruz Bay, St. John, BVI

St. John factoids:

- 7 miles by 3 miles wide

- two thirds of the island is part of the Virgin Islands National Park.

- population - 4,000

Spend the night in Cruz Bay

Things to do on St. John.

A visit to St. John isn't complete without a visit to some of its spectacular beaches-there are 39 to

choose from. And, many are world-famous.

Playing on St. John is like recess back in grade school, only lots better

and lots more fun for grown ups and kids. How about soft white coral

sand Caribbean beaches with names like Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay,

Caneel Bay, and Little Maho? Want action? St. John offers you some

of the best Caribbean scuba diving and snorkeling, Virgin Islands

swimming beaches, sailing (bare boat charters for old salts or captained

for true vacation comfort and luxury) and guided nature hiking in Virgin Islands National Park.

Shopping on St. John

Shopping on St. John is a fun-filled relaxing experience. Famous for its near perfect beaches and

its national park, St. John is also a treasure chest of unique

goods and shopkeepers. The island shops are small and very

individualized and the island's mellow and laid-back feeling

extends into its stores.

Near the ferry landing, Wharfside Village houses an

interesting arrangement of stores with a variety of appealing

and attractive inventory including tropical ware, bags,

swimsuits, and jewelry as well as food, liquor, hand crafted

items and electronics. A short walk away through the tree-

lined streets of Cruz Bay is another grouping of very attractive shops, Mongoose Junction, where

fine artisans show their wares and where there are many eye pleasing galleries and boutiques.

Excellent restaurants and cafes are available throughout the area where shoppers can relax, enjoy

the atmosphere, and feel refreshed.

Nature Tourism on St. John Practically synonymous with the island itself, the Virgin Islands National Park is St. John's most

valuable resource. The National Park encompasses half the

island on ground that was donated by American

multimillionaire philanthropist Lawrence Rockefeller in 1956.

The park is a trust held in perpetuity which visitors,

generations from now, will wish to find in the same shape as it

is today. Please treat the property accordingly.

Hiking trails abound throughout the island. The Cinnamon

Bay self-guiding trail (approximately one mile in one hour)

passes by native tropical trees and the ruins of a sugar factory.

The Maho Bay camps allow adventurous outdoors oriented visitors to fully enjoy the island's

environment. The resort won the Green Globe Commendation Award in 2000 for its

environmental conservation policies.

Day 22, 23 –Caneel Bay, St. John, BVI

Why Caneel?

Caneel Bay Beach is a good choice if you would like to combine a day at the beach with lunch at the Caneel Bay Resort. Take a swim, a snorkel or just relax. When you get hungry, you can enjoy a well-prepared meal at one of the hotel's seaside restaurants, the Caneel Beach Terrace or the more informal, Beach Terrace Bar.

Day 24, 25 – Maho Bay, St. John, BVI

Maho Bay is generally the calmest beach on the North Shore. There’s lots of room to find a spot just to your liking with opportunities for shade or sun.

It’s a particularly beautiful bay with stately groves of coconut palms lining both sides of the road.

There is a Virgin Islands National Park pavilion on the extreme western portion of the beach. A permit must be obtained from the park in order to use this facility. This permit will also entitle you to use the bathrooms to the west of the pavilion, which are otherwise locked and not available to the general public.

Day 26 – Trunk Bay, St. John, BVI

Trunk Bay has sands white and sparkling, water crystal clear, little fish peeking at your toes,gently rolling swells or mightily pounding surf, all surrounded by coconut palms gracefully waving a welcome. There are also old ruins, if you are nostalgic, sun as hot as you like it, and an under-sea trail for snorkeling and sightseeing.

Facilities

Showers, bathrooms and changing areas are available between 7:30 AM and 4:30 PM.

Also available are public telephones, picnic tables, barbecue grills and a covered pavilion. (To reserve the covered pavilion for a private event, call the National Park at 776-6201.)

A gift shop provides just about everything you might need while at the beach, such as sun screen, towels, insect repellent, hats, tee-shirts, bathing suits, film, batteries, books, post cards and souvenirs. Lockers, snorkel equipment, flotation devices and beach chairs are available for rent. The gift shop is open from 9:00 AM to 3:30 PM. Rental equipment must be returned by 3:00 PM.

The snack bar is open between 9:00 AM and 4:30 PM.

The organization, Friends of the Park, operate a kiosk staffed by volunteers where you can by books and other park related material. It has been described by one Park Ranger as “a miniature Visitors Center.”

Snorkeling

Trunk Bay is the home of the National Park’s underwater snorkeling trail. It begins just offshore of the spit of land that juts out toward Trunk Cay and is marked by buoys.

The trail consists of a series of underwater monuments with signs providing environmental information and identifying some of the flora and fauna common to the coral reef.

Fish survey volunteers report that on the average you should see (if not identify) 30 distinct species of fish in a half hour snorkel of the Trunk Bay Underwater Trail.

Day 27 – Leinster Bay, St. John, BVI

Leinster Bay includes two inner bays, Mary Creek on the west and Waterlemon Bay on the east . A small, tranquil

sand beach can be found at Waterlemon Bay. Just offshore of the beach is a small island, Waterlemon Cay, (not Watermelon) providing what most visitors describe as the "best snorkeling on St. John." This beach also makes an excellent cooling-off stop after a hike on the Leinster Bay, Johnny Horn or Brown Bay Trails. Another plus for Waterlemon Bay is that you can almost always count on the sea to be quiet and calm, even in the winter when the ground seas are up.

Snorkeling Waterlemon Cay

From the beach, you can access the fine snorkeling around Waterlemon Cay, the small island just offshore. (Many visitors name this as their favorite snorkel.)

Enter the water from the beach and snorkel to the island. The shoreline water is shallow, and the bottom is a mixture of sand and coral rubble. It is about a 0.2-mile snorkel to the fringing reef off Waterlemon Cay. Between the beach and the island you will snorkel over an environment of seagrass in about twenty feet of water where you can often see starfish, sea cucumbers, green turtles and stingrays.

To decrease the snorkeling distance to the island, follow the trail at the far end of the beach. Bear left at the first fork in the trail, which runs along the coastline. At the end of this trail, walk along the shore and choose a convenient place close to Waterlemon Cay to enter the water. The distance across the channel to the island is only about 0.1 mile. This entry is from the rocky shoreline to a rocky bottom. Be careful not to step on live coral or sea urchins.

From this entry point to the eastern part of Waterlemon Cay, you will snorkel over an area of seagrass and scattered reef. Closer to the island, the water becomes quite shallow. Here you will see schools of blue tang and some very large parrotfish. You can sometimes hear the parrotfish crunching their beak-like teeth along the surface of the rocks and dead coral. They do this to scrape off algae. Chunks of coral and algae pass through the parrotfish's unique digestive system and are excreted as fine coral sand. Much of the sand on our beautiful beaches is produced in this manner.

The south and east sides of Waterlemon Cay are bordered by a shallow-water fringing reef. The reef on the west and north sides of the cay is deeper, descending to a depth of about twenty feet. The reef is teeming with fish and other sea creatures. There are several varieties of coral to be found here, all healthy and colorful and the sea fans and sea plumes found in the deeper parts of the reef will give you the impression of swimming about in an underwater forest.

Look for eels in holes in the reef and for octopus where you find opened seashells piled together.

Day 28 – Tortola’s West End (Sopher’s Hole), BVI

Soper's Hole, aka Tortola's West End, is a kind of tropical urban "gunkhole," a nautical term for a

delightful spot to anchor. Soper's Hole retains its quaint charm while being a center of activity.

Surrounded by small mountains like Frenchman's Cay seen above, Soper's Hole imparts a great sense of

place and physical intimacy. At the same time, its opening to a sea of islands stirs an alluring anticipation of coming adventure.

Across the entry road is Pisces Restaurant with Omar's huge breakfast sandwiches as well as curried shrimp and honey-stung chicken

Day 29 – 30 Virgin Gorda, BVI Time to put the boat into dry storage.

Waterlemon Bay