Untitled-1 []€¦ · rayon to give luster and softness to cotton fabrics. Color and appearance, where novel designs may be carried out by incorporating multi-color effects [1, 2]

March - April 2019 423

Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

PEER REVIEWEDSPINNING

1. Introduction:Innovations in fiber-to-yarn production have focusedon developing new products with unique propertiesthrough utilization of fibers blends to meet the customer'sneeds. Seeking to achieve optimal yarn characteristicsand quality while keeping the price reasonable [1].Blending refers to the processes of converting two ormore types of staple fibers into a single yarn, wherefibers are oriented in the yarn structure in which eachcomponent ratio remains the same along the yarn length[2,3]. This process shall confirms the good qualities ofthe used fibers and reduces their poor properties, whichin return enhances the performance of the producedfabric and offers better characteristics than that ob-tained from using a single fiber yarn [4,5,6].Generally, blending process is applied to enhance vari-ous yarns properties such as; Durability whereas inte-

gration of more durable fiber may extends the func-tional life of a less durable one. For instance, whennylon or polyester fibers are blended with cotton orwool fibers, they provide strength and abrasion resis-tance while wool or cotton appearance retained. Eco-nomically, a considerable reduction in yarn costs couldbe achieved through proper blending of expensive fi-bers with more plentiful fibers like cashmere and wool.Physical properties, a compromise utilizing the prefer-able characteristics of the blended fibers, like usingrayon to give luster and softness to cotton fabrics.Color and appearance, where novel designs may becarried out by incorporating multi-color effects [1, 2].The properties of blended yarns are depending on theconstituent fibers characteristics and their proportions.Thus, fibers selection is a significant matter for threecomponent blends as it is for the common binary blends[2,5].

Blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers offers thepossibility of combining the desirable performance prop-erties of both components since they are so dissimilar[2], whereas blending ratios are determined accordingto the end-use, the economical and environmental con-

Comparative Study of Quality Properties for Open-end SpunYarns Produced from Blending Natural and Synthetic Fibers

Eman Y. Abd-Elkawe1 & Nermin M. Aly*2

1Spinning Research Dept., Cotton Research Institute,2Spinning and Weaving Engineering Dept., Textile Industries Research Division,

National Research Centre

Abstract :Blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers had gained a lot of interest, as it proposes a variety of textileproducts with unique properties. It successfully combines the good properties of both components toovercome the drawbacks of using fibers separately and enhances the aesthetic features and performanceof the produced fabric. Yarn quality is an essential target in fiber-to-yarn production and has a significantimpact on post spinning processes. In this work, the quality properties of Open-end spun yarns producedfrom cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers and their blends were investigated. The 100% single fiberyarns, binary blended yarns (50:50%) and triblend yarns (40:30:30%) all were produced with count 12 Ne.The influence of fibers properties and blending ratio on yarns physical and mechanical properties includingyarns diameter, evenness and imperfections, hairiness, twist/m, tenacity and elongation, as well fibersmorphology were studied to find out the optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarn quality properties.It was indicated from the experimental findings that, the 100% polyester yarn achieved the best propertiesand performance compared with all yarns samples followed by the binary blended yarns (Cotton/Polyester),(Cotton/Acrylic) and the triblend yarn (Cotton/Flax/Acrylic). Although, the (Cotton/Flax) binary blendedyarn showed the lowest functional performance due to its low evenness and high hairiness.

Keywords :Binary blended yarn, Open-end rotor spinning, Triblend yarn, Yarn quality.

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,Nermin M. AlySpinning and Weaving Engineering Dept.,Textile Industries Research Division, National Research Centre,33 ElBuhouth st., Dokki,Cairo, Egypt, P.O.12622.E-mail : [email protected]

March - April 2019424

Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

SPINNING

ditions [7]. Cotton is the most used natural fiber, itpresents approximately 33% of total fibers productionand it is extensively used in apparel and textiles sec-tors. Cotton's quality depends on fibers properties suchas length, strength, maturity degree and fineness [2,8,9].Blending cotton fibers with other fibers assist in opti-mizing fabrics cost and also improve final fabrics prop-erties like drapeability, comfortability, durability, dyeability,…etc . Among the natural and synthetic fibers that arebeing used in cotton blends are flax, polyester andacrylic fibers. Flax fibers are characterized by theirhigh tenacity, natural brightness and comfort properties[6,9]. They are very compatible with cotton fibers, sotheir blends will improve quality, reduce costs, andposses better functional properties like tensile strengthand elongation, abrasion resistance, drapeability, absor-bency, etc. These blends are used to produce fine wovenapparel, household textiles and upholstery fabrics [2,10].

Polyester fibers play a vital role in all textile areasfrom traditional textiles to medical and geotextiles. Theyare characterized by their high strength, luster, aesthet-ics, low cost, but have a low moisture regain comparedto cotton [4,8]. Cotton/polyester blends are used inapparel and home furnishing, as cotton enhances com-fort properties, while polyester fibers improve fabric'sdurability owing to its strength, abrasion resistance,crease resistance, and better easy-care properties com-pared to 100% cotton. Also, their blends have pos-sessed other advantages such as low pilling, low staticelectrification, better evenness compared to 100%polyester [4,11,12]. Acrylic fibers are characterized bygood durability and shape retention, low thermal con-ductivity, easy-care properties, etc. About 75% ofacrylic fibers are used in apparel, 20% in home fur-nishings, and 5% in industrial applications [8]. Cotton/acrylic blends are used in bulky woven and knittedfabrics, whereas cotton fibers offer moisture regain,absorbency and antistatic properties, while acrylic fi-bers provide heat insulation, crease recovery and abra-sion resistance [2].

Several studies have investigated the quality propertiesof blended yarns and revealed that, they are mainlyinfluenced by materials types and their blending ratios,machine type and its setup parameters, and the spin-ning system type [1, 11]. Ring and Open-end rotorspinning systems comprise about 90% of total yarnproduction in the world [13]. Open-end rotor spinningis a modern technique, where spinning and winding arecombined in one process to overcome all of ring spin-ning issues , through separating twisting and winding in

yarn manufacturing processes. So, it exhibits less en-ergy cost due to less machinery used in production.Moreover, the yarns are more regular due to multipledoubling or back doubling of fibers in the rotor groove[14,15] and have low breakage rate which improvestheir quality. Thus, there is a significant increase inyarn production which is about 3-5 times compared toring spinning system [16].

The main quality characteristics of blended spun yarnsare tenacity, elongation, evenness which depend on thefibers used properties [1, 4]. Jackowska-Strumillo etal. [17] had investigated the quality properties of cottonyarns spun using ring, compact and Open-end rotorspinning machines. It was indicated that, Open-end yarnsare characterized by their tenacity, low hairiness andunevenness. Anandjiwal et al. [18] found that, blendingdissimilar fibers had resulted in non-uniform distributionthroughout the yarn cross-section, which leads to pref-erential migration relying on both fiber properties andspinning processes. Nawaz S.M et al. [19], reportedthat, yarn strength reduced gradually as polyester fi-bers share decreased in the blend. Cierpucha et al.[20], studied the quality properties of cotton and cot-ton/flax blends rotor spun yarns and had found that, theblended yarns had low strength and high coefficientsof variation of linear density compared to cotton yarns.Barella et al., [21], studied the properties of ring androtor polyester/cotton (50:50%) blended yarns for di-ameter and hairiness compared with 100% cotton andpolyester yarns. They found that, hairiness was higherfor cotton yarns than for polyester yarns with blendssituated in an intermediate position for both ring androtor-spun yarns.

The present work aims to study the quality propertiesof Open-end spun yarns produced using four differentnatural and synthetic fibers and their blends. Cotton,flax, polyester and acrylic fibers were used and blendedto produce binary blended yarns and triblend yarns tobe compared with the 100% single fiber yarns. Thephysical and mechanical properties of the producedblended spun yarns such as; diameter, hairiness, even-ness and imperfections, twist/m, tenacity and elonga-tion were examined to assess their performance. Theresults obtained are discussed and evaluated to find outthe optimum blending ratio that offers the best yarnquality properties.

2. Materials and methodsGreek cotton, flax, polyester and acrylic fibers werechosen to produce 100% single fiber yarns and their


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

SPINNING

possible blends including binary blended yarns (50:50%)and triblended yarns (40:30:30%). Fibers physical andmechanical properties were examined and presented inTable 2.1. Fibers length and length uniformity weremeasured using Fibrograph instrument according toASTM-D1447. Fibers fineness and maturity weremeasured using Micronaire-675 device according toASTM-D1448. Fibers tenacity and elongation wasmeasured using Stelometer instrument according toASTM-D1445. Testing of fibers properties were car-ried out in Cotton Research Institute laboratories, Giza,Egypt.

Table 2.1. Fibers physical and mechanical properties

Fibers properties Cotton Flax Polyester Acrylic

Fiber Length (mm) 33.03 62.2 35.8 66

Length uniformity (%) 86.6 87.3 89 93.33

Tenacity (g/tex) 24.5 29 59.1 32

Elongation (%) 6.3 5.4 15.8 10.3Fiber Fineness

(Micronaire) 4.74 12.7 6.25 6.8

Maturity (%) 74.5 60 62.5 56

2.1. Yarn spinning processThe experimental work was carried out in El-SharkiaSpinning and Weaving Co. (SharkaTex) in Zagazig city.Open-end rotor spinning system was chosen for pro-ducing the 100% spun yarns and their blends. The rawmaterials were obtained from the spinning mills. Thefibers were prepared and processed for the cardingsection. The carded slivers of all fibers were carried tothe drawing process, where blending of natural andsynthetic fibers was performed according to the re-quired ratios on the drawing frame to provide the bestblend in the longitudinal direction. The drawn sliverswere fed to the spinning machine (Ingolstadt rotorspinner RU11). The used machine parameters includ-ing 52 mm rotor diameter with speed of 40000 rpm andan opening roller with speed of 6000 rpm. The pro-duced Open-end spun yarns were of count 12 Ne witha twist multiplier 4 for all yarn samples. The specifica-tions of the Open-end spun yarns samples are listed inTable 2.2.

Table 2.2. Open-end spun yarns specifications

Sample Yarn materials Blending ratioNo (%)

1 Cotton (C) 100

2 Polyester (P) 100

3 Acrylic (A) 100

4 Cotton/Flax (C/F) (50:50)

5 Cotton/Acrylic (C/A) (50:50)

6 Cotton/Polyester (C/P) (50:50)

7 Flax/Polyester (F/P) (50:50)

8 Acrylic/Polyester (A/P) (50:50)

9 Cotton/Flax/Polyester (C/F/P) (40:30:30)

10 Cotton/Flax/Acrylic (C/F/A) (40:30:30)

11 Cotton/Acrylic/Polyester (C/A/P) (40:30:30)

12 Flax/Acrylic/Polyester (F/A/P) (40:30:30)

Note: 100% Flax yarns and the binary blended yarnFlax/Acrylic (F/A) were unspinnable due to unsuitablespinning conditions. This is may be related to the stiff-ness, brittleness and low pliability of flax fibers, whichlack convolution to produce the necessary cohesionbetween the fibers [22]. But when flax fibers blendedwith cotton and polyester fibers, it gave good results inproducing blended yarns as its share decreased in theproduced yarns.

2.2. Yarn testingThe produced Open-end spun yarns quality propertieswere tested after conditioning the samples for 24 hoursunder the standard atmospheric conditions (20±2°C)and (65±2% RH). Yarn diameter was determined us-ing Nikon profile Projector Model V-12. Yarn even-ness and imperfections refers to the number of thick& thin places and neps per 1000 meters of yarn weremeasured using Uster Tester 1-Model B according toASTM D-1425 and with test speed of 400 m/min.Yarn hairiness was measured using F-Index Tester ac-cording to ASTM D-5647 with test speed of 30 m/min.Hairiness value refers to the total number of protrud-ing fibers on the yarn's outer surface including fibersof length <1 mm and fibers of length >3 mm andabove. Yarn tenacity (cN/tex) and Elongation at break(%) were measured using Uster Tensorapid tensiletesting machine according to ASTM D-2256. The testcross-head speed was 500 m/min. Yarn twists per meter(TPM) was determined using Asano Machine digitaltwist tester according to ASTM D-1423. Spun yarnproperties were examined at Textile Industries ResearchDivision laboratories, National Research Centre, Giza,

Texttreasure

The important thing in science is not so muchto obtain new facts as to discover new ways ofthinking about them

- William Lawrence Bragg


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

SPINNING

Egypt. Yarns morphology was examined using LeicaDMLS microscope at 10x zoom at Cotton ResearchInstitute laboratories, Giza, Egypt.

The properties of the produced Open-end spun yarnswere studied and analyzed with respect to the influ-ence of fiber materials properties and blending ratios toassess their performance. Overall comparison of allyarns properties was carried out using radar charts tofind out the optimum blending ratio that offers the bestyarn quality properties.

3. Results and discussionsIn this work, the quality properties of the producedOpen-end spun yarns in terms of their physical andmechanical properties were studied and evaluated withrespect to the influence of fiber materials propertiesand blending ratios to assess their performance.

3.1. Yarn diameterYarn diameter has an effect on fabric quality as itassists in expecting fabric constructional parameterslike cover factor and porosity [23]. The influence offibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-endspun yarns diameters is shown in figure 3.1. It wasobserved that, the 100% acrylic yarn showed the high-est diameter of 0.41 mm followed by the 100% cottonyarn with diameter of 0.39 mm and then the triblendyarn (C/F/P) with 0.38 mm .While the 100% polyesteryarn showed the lowest diameter of 0.28 mm followedby the binary blended yarn (C/P) with diameter of 0.29mm. This could be related to polyester yarn structurewhich has finer fibers in its cross-section comparedwith the acrylic fibers which are characterized by theirbulkiness. This is clearly shown with increasing cottonand acrylic fibers share ratios in the blended yarns.

Figure 3.1. Open-end spun yarns diameter values.

3.2. Yarn evennessYarn evenness refers to the variation level in yarnlinear density. The presence of more yarns imperfec-tions in terms of thin & thick places and neps leads toa decline in their performance which affects negativelyon the fabric appearance and quality. The influence offibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-endspun yarns evenness is shown in figures 3.2 and 3.3respectively. It was found from figure 2 that, the 100%yarns didn't record any thin places. The triblend yarn(F/P/A) recorded the lowest thick places value of 10,followed by the 100% polyester yarn with thick placesvalue of 20. Also, the binary blended yarn (C/A) re-corded the lowest neps value of 50, followed by the100% polyester yarn with neps value of 110. On theother hand, the triblend yarn (C/F/P) recorded the high-est value of imperfections with 410 thin places & 2210thick places and 3330 neps. This may be attributed toincreasing the content of cotton and flax fibers in theblending ratios, since natural fibers are characterizedby having high variations in their cross-section alongtheir length compared with synthetic fibers which mayleads to increasing the yarns imperfections.

Also, it is observed from figure 3 that, the triblend yarn(C/F/P) has the highest unevenness value (U%) of25.6% followed by the binary blended yarn (C/F) with25%. Whereas the binary blended yarns (C/A) showedthe lowest unevenness value of 8.6% followed by thetriblend yarn (C/P/A) with unevenness value of 10.9%.This could be due to increasing in the proportion ofsynthetic fibers in the blending ratios which have longfibers with a controlled diameter and low variationsthat may reduces the presence of thick and thin places.Although natural fibers may have short and immaturefibers in their cross-section which leads to formingneps along the yarns length.

Figure 3.2. Open-end spun yarns imperfections values.


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

SPINNING

Figure 3.3. Open-end spun yarns unevenness values.

3.3. Yarn hairinessHairiness has an effect on yarns appearance and per-formance. The presence of protruding fibers on theyarn's outer surface results in accumulation of contactpoints between yarns and weaving machine parts andthus leads to yarn breakages during weaving processand may causes pilling problems [24]. The influence offibers properties and blending ratios on the Open-endspun yarns hairiness is shown in figure 3.4. For fibersprotruded of 1mm length and shorter, it was found thatthe binary blended yarn (C/F) recorded the highesthairiness value of 80.5 followed by the triblend yarn(C/F/P) with hairiness value of 37.9. Although, lowerhairiness values was observed in the triblend yarn (C/F/A) of 5.9 followed by the binary blended yarns (C/P) with hairiness value of 11. This could be related tolower length uniformity of cotton and flax fibers and tothe presence of the short fibers in their blend yarncross-section. This may leads to increasing the numberof protruding fibers on the yarn's surface that causesincrease in the hairiness level as well.

On the other hand, for protruded fibers of 3 mm lengthand longer, the 100% acrylic yarn recorded the highesthairiness value of 33.5 followed by the binary blendedyarn (C/A) with hairiness value of 26.6. While thebinary blended yarns (C/P) recorded the lowest hairi-ness value of 0.3 followed by the 100% polyester yarnwith hairiness value of 0.7. High hairiness of acrylicfibers may be related to the occurrence of the electro-static forces that results from the frictions formed byfiber to-metal surfaces and fiber-to-fiber during yarnsproduction on the Open-end-rotor machine [25].

Figure 3.4. Open-end spun yarns hairiness values.

3.4. Yarn tenacityYarns tenacity has a direct effect on the efficiency ofwinding, weaving and knitting processes. The influ-ence of fibers properties and blending ratios on theOpen-end spun yarns tenacity is shown in figure 3.5.It was found that, the 100% polyester yarns showedthe highest tenacity value of 13.6 cN/tex, followed bythe binary blended yarn (F/P) with tenacity value of13.2 cN/tex and 100% cotton yarns with tenacity valueof 11.85 cN/tex. Although the lowest tenacity valuewas observed with the binary blended yarn (C/P) of8.23 cN/tex followed by the binary blended yarn (C/F)with tenacity value of 8.5 cN/tex. This may be relatedto polyester fibers high strength compared to otherfibers. It may be also due to increasing the number offibers in the yarn cross-section that are able to bearthe tensile load and the high stiffness of flax fibers thatincreases its tenacity. As well it was clarified that,decreasing the share of cotton fibers in the blend leadsto a reduction in the yarns tenacity.

Figure 3.5. Open-end spun yarns tenacity values.

3.5. Yarn elongation at breakYarn elongation at break is influenced by fibers exten-sion and their arrangement in yarn body. The influenceof fiber properties and blending ratios on the Open-endspun yarns elongation is shown in figure 3.6. It was

Texttreasure

Science does not know its debt to imagination- Ralph Waldo Emerson


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

SPINNING

found that, the binary blended yarn (P/A) showed thehighest values of elongation with 16.1%, followed bythe binary blended yarns (F/P) with elongation valuesof 14.5% and (C/A) with value of 14.1%. While thelowest elongation were noted in the binary blendedyarn (C/F) with value of 9.31%, followed by the 100%cotton fibers with value of 9.77%. This may be attrib-uted to the high elongation properties of polyester andacrylic fibers compared to flax and cotton fibers. Also,it was indicated that, there is an improvement in theelongation values with the binary blended yarns com-pared to the 100% yarns and the triblend yarns.

Figure 3.6. Open-end spun yarns elongation values.

3.6. Yarn twists per meterThe influence of fiber properties and blending ratios onthe Open-end spun yarns number of twists/m is shownin figure 3.7. It was indicated that, the 100% cottonfibers showed the highest values of twists/m with 791,followed by binary blended yarn (C/F) with 787.4 andthe triblend yarn (C/P/A) with 748. While the lowestnumber of twists/m was found with 100% acrylic yarnof 572.5 and the binary blended yarn (F/P) with 602.4.This may be attributed to cotton fibers nature of pres-ence of short fibers that need a high number of twiststo increase its strength. Although acrylic fibers havehigh hairiness level due to presence of protruding fi-bers on its surface that leads to decreasing the numberof twists/m.

Figure 3.7. Open-end spun yarns twists/m values.

3.7. Yarns performance evaluationAn overall comparison of all yarns properties wascarried out using radar charts to find out the optimumblending ratio that offers the best yarn quality proper-ties. Figure 3.8 shows the evaluation of the best fiveOpen-end spun yarns performance in terms of theirphysical and mechanical properties. While figures 3.9and 3.10 show the best binary blended yarns andtriblended yarns performances. It was revealed that,the 100% polyester yarn achieved the best functionalperformance compared to all yarns, due to its hightenacity and elongation, evenness and low diameterand hairiness values, followed by the binary blendedyarn (C/P), the binary blended yarn (C/A), the triblendyarn (C/F/A) and the binary blended yarn (P/A). Onthe other hand, it was revealed that, the (C/F) binaryblended yarn showed the lowest functional performancecompared to all yarn samples due to its low evennessand high hairiness.

Figure 3.8 shows the evaluation of the best five Open-end spun yarns performance

JTA : An effective marketing tool for

strengthening business promotion


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

SPINNING

Figure 3.9. Evaluation of the binary blended Open-endspun yarns performance.

Figure 10. Evaluation of the triblend Open-end spunyarns performance.

3.8. Yarns morphology:Figures from (3.11-3.14) show the cross-section andlongitudinal views of cotton, flax, polyester and acrylicfibers, respectively. It can be seen, that cotton fiberscross-section is oval kidney-shaped with a thick walland small lumen. The fiber looks like a flat twistedribbon with convolutions. Flax fibers have a polygonalcross-section with a central lumen. The fibers have asmooth surface with nodes at intervals that cause theunevenness [26]. Polyester fibers have a smooth roundcross-section and a rod-like appearance. Acrylic fibershave a bean shaped cross-section and the fibers lookslightly wavy in appearance that give bulkiness to theyarns and provide warmth. [27].

Figure 3.11. Cotton fibers: a) cross sectional view and b)longitudinal view.

Figure 3.12. Flax fibers; a) cross sectional view and b)longitudinal view.

Figure 3.13. Polyester fibers; a) Cross sectional viewand b) longitudinal

Figure 3.14. Acrylic fibers; a) Cross sectional view andb) longitudinal view.

Fibers properties and blending ratios had a great influ-ence of on the arrangement of fibers and distributionin the produced Open-end spun yarns cross-sections.Figure 3.15(a-e) shows the cross-sectional views ofthe binary blended yarns (C/F), (C/P), (F/P), (C/A),and (A/P), respectively. It can be observed from fig-ure 3.15-a, that the cotton fibers are gathered togethertowards the yarn center due to its high density sur-rounded by the flax fibers. In 3.15-b, cotton fibers aresurrounded by the polyester fibers which are charac-terized by their low density that leads to their distribu-tion in the outer layers, while in figure 3.15-c, the flaxfibers are surrounded by the polyester fibers. Also in3.15-d, cotton fibers are found in the center and atedges while acrylic fibers are oriented preferentiallypositioned in the yarn outer layer surface due to its lowdensity. In 3.15-e, both polyester and acrylic fibers aresubstantially distributed in the yarn cross-section.


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

SPINNING

While figure 3.16(a-d) show the cross-sectional viewsof the triblended yarns (C/F/P) (C/F/A), (C/A/P) and(F/A/P), respectively. In figure 3.16(a-b) natural fibersratio in the blend is higher than the synthetic fibers. So,it was observed from figure 3.16-a, the cotton fibersare gathered together towards the yarn center sur-rounded by the flax fibers and the polyester fibers arelocated mostly at the surface layer because of its lowerdensity. This leads to the presence of structural irregu-larities in the yarn and accordingly affected on its prop-erties like evenness and hairiness. In figure 3.16 (b-d),the acrylic fibers distribution in the blended yarns seemedto be random for all yarns cross-section, which may berelated to its low density and the electrostatic forcesthat resulted from the frictions formed during yarnsproduction. Although in figure 3.16(c-d) the proportionof synthetic fibers is higher than natural fibers, cottonand flax fibers are found surrounded with polyesterfibers more in the yarns cross-section.

Figure 3.15. Cross-sectional views of the binary blendedyarns; a) C/F, b) C/P,

c) F/P , d) C/A, and e) A/P ,respectively.

Figure 3.16. Cross sectional views of the triblend yarns;a) C/F/P, b) C/F/A,

c) C/A/P and d) F/A/P, respectively.

4. ConclusionBlending process is performed for enhancing the aes-thetic and functional qualities of yarns at a reducedcost. In this work, cotton, flax, polyester and acrylicfibers were used to produce 100% Open-end spunyarns and their possible binary and triblend yarns. Theproduced Open-end spun yarns quality properties wereexamined in terms of their physical and mechanicalproperties. Their characteristics are mainly influencedby the fibers characteristics and the blending ratio. Thetrend indicated that, as cotton and flax fibers shareincreases in the blend, it affects on the yarns evenness,imperfection values and hairiness. Also it affected onreducing yarns elongation compared to all yarn samples.On the other hand, the blended yarns performancesimproved with increasing the share of polyester fibersin the blend, due to its high tenacity and elongation,evenness, low diameter and hairiness value. An overallcomparison of all yarns properties had revealed that,the binary blended yarns(C/P) , and (C/A), followed bythe triblended yarn (C/F/A) had achieved the best qualityproperties and performance in the blended yarns. Ad-ditionally, it was found that, the (C/F) binary blendedyarn showed the lowest functional performance due toits low evenness and high hairiness. Further studies areneeded on blending more various natural and syntheticfibers, seeking for improving the quality properties ofthe triblend yarns to widen their applications in thetextile industry.

References1. El-Sayed M.A.M. Quality characteristics of Ring

and O.E. yarns spun from Egyptian and Uplandcotton blends. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/in-dustry-article/3227/quality-characteristics-of-ring-and-o-e-yarns-spun-from-egyptian-and-upland-cot-ton-blends page=9 & amp=true .

2. Charankar S.P., Verma V., Gupta M. and NanavatiB.M., Journal of the Textile Association, 67(5),201,(2007).

3. Samanta A.K., Indian Journal of Fiber andTextile Research, 39(1), 89, (2014).

4. Bhardwaj S. and Juneja S., Studies on Homeand Community Science, 6(1), 33, (2012).

5. Rajalakshmi M., Koushik C.V. and Prakash C.,Journal of Textile Science and Engineering,2(6),1, (2012).

6. Prakash C., Ramakrishnan G., and Koushik C.V.,FIBERS & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe,19:6(89), 38, (2011).

7. Shad S.S., Mumtaz A. and Javed I., Pakistan


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

SPINNING

Journal of Agricultural Sciences, 38(3-4), 35,(2001).

8. Lawrence C.A., Fundamentals of Spun YarnTechnology, Boca Raton London New YorkWashington, D.C, CRC Press LLC, 28, (2003).

9. ?evkan A. and Kado lu H., TEKSTIL veKONFEKSIYON, 22(3), 218, (2012).

10. Lawal A.S., Bawa I., and Nkeonye P.O., Inter-national Journal of Science and Research, 3(9),41,(2014).

11. Malik S.A., Farooq A., Gereke T. and Cherif C.,AUTEX Research Journal, 16(2),43, (2016).

12. Baykal P.D., Babaarslan O., and Erol R., FIBERS& TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 14:1(55), 18,(2006).

13. Kilic G.B. and Okur A., Industria Textila, 67(2),81, (2016).

14. Open-end Rotor Spinning, (2015). https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2015/01/open-end-rotor-spinning.html

15. Rameshkumar C., Anandkumar P., SenthilnathanP., Jeevitha R. and Anbumani N., AUTEX Re-search Journal, 8 (4), 100, (2008).

16. Nawaz S.M., Jamil N.A., Iftikhar M. and FarooqiB., Pakistan Textile Journal, March,22, (2003).

17. Strumillo J.L., Cyniak D., Czekalski J. andJackowski T., FIBRES & TEXTILES in EasternEurope, 15(1):(60), 24,(2007).

18. Anandjiwala R.D., Goswami B.C., Bragg C.K.,and Bargeron J.D., Textile Research Journal,69(2), 129, (1999).

19. Nawaz S.M, Shahbaz B., Yousaf C.K., PakistanTextile Journal, 48(6), 26,(1999).

20. Cierpucha W., Czaplicki Z., Mankowski J.,Kolodziej J., Zareba S. and Szporek J., FIBERS& TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 14(5),80,(2006).

21. Barella A., Manich A., Castro L. and Hunter L.,Textile Research Journal, 54(12), 840,(1984).

22. Schulze, G., Experience in Linen Fiber Process-ing, Melliand Textilberichte (Eng. Ed.), 5,(1998).

23. Jaouadi M., Msehli S. and Sakli F., The IndianTextile Journal, 117, September issue,1, (2007).

24. Kova evi S., Schwarz I.G., and Skenderi Z., In-dustria Textile, 67(2), 91, (2016).

25. Morton W.E. and Hearle J.W.S., Physical Prop-erties of Textile Fibers, 4th Edition, The TextileInstitute ,CRC Press, Boca Raton Boston NewYork Washington, DC, Woodhead Publishing Lim-ited, Cambridge, England,(2008).

26. Smole M.S., Hribernik S., Kleinschek K.S. andKre•e T., Plant Fibers for Textile and Techni-cal Applications, In: Advances in AgrophysicalResearch, InTech open, p.376 (2013).

27. Synthetic Fibers, Acrylic. https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102026/39.

❑ ❑ ❑

Solutions That Can Enhance

Your Brand

Add life to your business

ideas with our Brand

Building Solutions


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

1. Introduction:In the blow room, where rolling of cotton, the beatingof cotton, improper carding action and immature fibercontent in raw material causes the fiber to be tangledinto neps [1]. The carding is the heart of the entirespinning process as carding performance effects largelyon the yarn quality. In carding feed fiber are individu-alized, cleaned by removing trash and micro dust em-bedded in the tufts of fibers [2]. Carding also removesshort fibers and Neps by the carding action of flats andcylinder wire points. While carding neps are removedas well as generated due to the beating of fibers withfine wire points results into formation of neps. Thegeneration of neps at card increases above the accept-able level due to improper settings, worn out wire points,immature fibers etc [3, 4]. The ultimate object of card-ing is to open out thoroughly the tiny lumps, flocks ortufts to a state where every fiber becomes individual-ized and the cotton is no more in an entangled state[5]. The carding performance is indicated by Nep re-moval efficiency NRE. It is defined as the no of nepsare removed after carding action in carded sliver it isexpressed in percentage. NRE is calculated by follow-ing formulae

Impact of Card Neps Removal Efficiency on Yarn Quality

Sujit Gulhane1*, Vishal Patil1, Prafull Kolte1, Jaikisan Gupta2

1Center for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS2Welspun India Limited

Abstract :The paper focused on the impact of carding performance particularly Neps Removal Efficiency (NRE) onthe yarn quality. The carding parameters, settings and machine condition plays an important role in theproduction of good quality sliver. These improper settings and parameters are responsible for fiber entangle-ment and subsequent generation of Neps. The Neps are an undesirable factor which reduces the qualityof the yarn and ultimately reduces the cost of the final products. Even though the cards are feed with thesame mixing received from the blow room and set with same carding parameters they show variation in thecarding performance. This variation in the carding performance needs to be studied to find out its causesand impact on yarn quality. Here in this paper five cards running with the same material and processparameters with different neps removal efficiency were considered. The sliver of each card was channelizedup to ring frame yarn formation, and the quality of the yarn was tested and analyzed with respect to theneps removal efficiency of the cards. It is found that the neps removal efficiency has an impact on yarnquality. The causes of variation in the card to card NRE were also discussed in this paper.

Keywords :Carding, Nep Removal Efficiency, Card Setting, Yarn Quality

(Neps in feed - Neps in delivered)NRE= ---------------------------------------------- X100

Neps in feed

In general practice, the NRE at cards is set with wideracceptance level. As in further process these sliversare blended and drafted in the subsequent process ofbreaker draw frame and finisher draw frame. Thus itis not possible to identify the card which is responsiblefor higher imperfection level. This becomes a problemin the path of quality improvement at the carding stage.In the context of this, we have selected this topic tofind out the importance of the NRE level of individualat cards.

2. Material and methodsMedium grade cotton of Shankar H6 variety with 30.2mm UHML and 4.3 micronier value is used to spin acarded yarn of 20 Ne was used to study the impact ofNRE at cards on yarn quality. The cotton fibers wereprocessed through a blow room, carding and one pas-sage of draw frame as Breaker, Finisher, Speed Frameand Ring Frame. The quality of the card feed andsliver is tested on AFIS to determine the NRE of eachcard. The carded sliver of each card was processed tillRing frame stage to produce 20s Ne yarn. All yarnsamples are tested by standard test methods afterconditioning in standard atmospheric conditions to de-termine imperfection, (thick, thin, neps) and short-term

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,Prof. Sujit Gulhane,Center for Textile Functions MPSTME,SVKM's NMIMS, ShirpurEmail : [email protected]

PEER REVIEWED WEAVING


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

WEAVING

evenness (U %) and single yarn strength. Test resultsand their interpretation is given in the results and dis-cussion.

Table 2.1. Shows the Nep Count and the NRE of theselected five cards. It is found that the five cards arefeed with same raw cotton fiber mixing but the levelof NRE varies due to variation in carding performance.The card E shows the lowest NRE level whereas cardA shows highest NRE level.

Table 2.1: NRE of Cards

Particular Card Card A Card B Card C Card D Card EFeed delivery delivery delivery delivery delivery

Neps/gm 266 96 112 131 138 144

Nep size 710 678 710 715 720 722

NRE % 63.91 57.89 50.75 48.12 45.86

2.1 Possible Causes for Variation in NRE of theCards2.1.1 Card speed ParametersCard speed Parameters are one of the main reasonsfor variation in NRE. If the two cards are running atthe small variation in speeds, they lead to variation inNRE, due to variation in carding action at differentspeeds. Thus, it is necessary to maintain a constantspeed of all moving parts of the cards [8].

2.1.2 Opening of fibersIn carding, the fibers are open in licker-in zone if thereis an improper opening of fibers it leads to variation inNRE of the card. If there is variation in the opening offibers between two cards it causes high variation in

NRE. Variation in the opening zone happens due to thedifference in licker-in speed, damaged wire points oflicker in or the blunt edge of licker-in wire points. Toreduce the variation in NRE of card it necessary to doregular maintaining the licker-in and as well as thewhole card.

2.1.3 Card settingThe setting between flats and cylinder of the cardaffects fiber individualization, neps removals and gen-eration during carding action. If two cards are runningwith a minute change in their settings, then that willlead to variation in their NRE. The wider setting be-tween flat and cylinder reduced carding action i.e.removal of neps and too closer setting causes forma-tion of neps. Thus, flat to cylinder setting need to bekept at an optimum level to achieve minimum nepscount in the card sliver.2.1.4 Card maintenanceThe card maintenance is not only effects on produc-tion but also on the quality of the sliver. If the preven-tive maintenance cycles of the cards were not main-tained equally for all card, it will lead to variation in themechanical condition in between cards. This variationin the condition of the cards leads to variation in NRElevels of cards.

3. Results and DiscussionThe yarn samples produced by canalizing the materialof each card were tested for its evenness and singleyarn strength. The test results obtained at differentNep level in card sliver is given in table 3.1 givenbelow.

Table 3.1: Effect of NRE on yarn test results.

Card NRE U% CVm CV10m IPI RKM Elongation CSP

Card A 63.91 11.58 14.74 2.34 259 17.25 4.58 2988

Card B 57.89 11.67 14.71 2.28 287 16.73 4.51 2838

Card C 50.75 11.55 14.89 2.43 324 14.66 4.36 2964

Card D 48.12 11.75 14.98 2.56 365 15.39 4.72 2971

Card E 45.86 11.68 14.79 2.52 389 16.82 4.37 2879

Raise your profile in global

technical textiles


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

WEAVING

3.1 Effect of NRE on U% and CV% of yarnThe results show that the unevenness parameters ofthe tested yarns are similar to negligible deviations thuswe conclude that the effect of NRE on yarn uneven-ness is negligible. As unevenness is governed by thevariation in the number of fibers in cross section ofyarn, and NRE does not effect on the probability of anumber of fibers in the yarn cross-section.

3.2 Effect of NRE on IPIThe results show that the card with higher NRE valueshows lower thick and neps count as compared withthe card with lower NRE vale. This difference is ob-served in a large amount in the form of IPI value. IPIvalue not only decides the quality of yarn but also itsperformance in the subsequent process. Thus it isconcluded that the card with higher NRE gives betterresults of IPI in comparison with a card of lower NREvalue.

3.3 Effect of NRE on Yarn StrengthThe test results of the yarn samples do not show anyrelation with the NRE. The strength of yarn is decidedby the number of fibers in the cross section and twistlevel. The level of Nep has no impact on the numberof fibers in the cross section and twist level in the yarnit does not have any correlation with the yarn RKM,Elongation, and CSP.

4. ConclusionThe results show that the card with higher NRE valueshows lower IPI as compared with the card with lowerNRE vale. This difference is observed in a large amountin the form of IPI value. IPI value not only decides thequality of yarn but also its performance in the subse-quent process. Thus, it is concluded that the card withhigher NRE gives better results of IPI in comparisonwith a card of lower NRE value. The unevenness andstrength of the tested yarns are more or less equivalentwith negligible deviations thus we conclude that theeffect of NRE on yarn unevenness and strength isnegligible. The carding neps removal efficiency de-cides the yarn IPI and it has a significant effect onyarn appearance, thus it essential to reduce card tocard nep level variation by optimization of card set-tings.

5. Acknowledgement :The authors are grateful to Dr. P.P.Raichurkar Asso-ciate Dean SVKM's NMIMS MPSTME CTF, Shirpurfor continuous guidance and support.

6. References1. Rokonuzzaman, Md, Ahmed Jalal Uddin, Md Abu

Bakar Siddiquee, Md Abdullah Al Mamun, andAKM Ayatullah Hosne Asif. "Impact of Card Pro-duction Rate on the Quality of Ring Yarn." Inter-national Journal of Current Engineering and Tech-nology, 7, (1), 144-147, (2017).

2. Regar, Madan Lal, and Niharika Aikat, A Studyon the Effect of Pin Density on Stationary Flatsand its Setting on Carding Quality, Tekstilec,60,(1),58-64, (2017).

3. Syed Khuram Hassan, Syeda Mona Hassan,Samra Naseem and Munawar Iqbal. Evaluationof factors affecting the fiber quality used for yarnproduction, Current Science Perspectives, 2, (4),116-119, (2016).

4. V.D.Chaudhari, Prafull P.Kolte, A.D.Chaudhari,Effect of Card Delivery Speed on Ring YarnQuality, International Journal on Textile Engineer-ing and Process, Vol.3(4), 2017, 13-18.

5. Bhushan Chaudhari, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao,Sanjay Mhaske, Performance of Card and CombSliver Blended Yarn, International Journal on Tex-tile Engineering and Process, 3, (1), 30-35, (2017).

6. Gaurav Thakare, Tushar Shinde SujitShrikrushnarao Gulhane Pramod Raichurkar, Ef-fect of Piecing Index in Comber on Sliver andYarn Quality, Spinning Textiles, Mar- April, 132-136, (2018).

7. Mayur Suryawanshi, Tushar Shinde SujitShrikrushnarao Gulhane, Rajendra DhondinathParsi, Pramod Raichurkar, Optimization of Draft-ing Parameter of Speed Frame For Better YarnQuality, Spinning Textiles, July-Aug, 04-12, (2018).

8. V.D. Chaudhari, P.P. Kolte, A.M. Daberao, P.W.Chandurkar, Effect of Licker-in speed on yarnquality, Melliand International, Vol. 23(4), 2017,193-195.

❑ ❑ ❑


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

1. IntroductionAir permeability, the ability of the fabric to permit theflow of air through it, is one of the most importantproperties of non-woven fabrics in many applications.Though by far the major use of air permeability innonwoven is in the filtration application, there are somemarkets where ventilation resistance is vital to the func-tion of the product. For example, in the apparel andinterlining applications, it is essential to affirmthe opti-mum insulation so that too much heat will not escapein cold weather. In addition, in industrial garments likemedical gowns and biohazard suits, ventilation resis-tance is very important to ensure no exposure to harm-ful substances.

Many researchers have addressed the relationshipbetween air permeability and geometrical and struc-tural characteristics of nonwoven like mass per unitarea, fabric thickness, fabric density, porosity, pore sizedistribution; raw material characteristics like fibre length,fibre denier, fiber cross-section, fibre crimp; and pro-cessing parameters like feed rate, type and size ofneedle, number of barbs, needling stroke frequency,arrangement and density of needles, punching densityof fabric and depth of needle penetration. [1-12].In thisstudy, the effect of fibre composition, mass per unit

areas and depth of needle penetration on air perme-ability and ventilation resistance of polyester-viscoseblended nonwoven is investigated using Box-Behnkendesign.

2. Material and methods2.1 Preparation of nonwoven fabricsFifteen non-woven needle-punched fabric sampleswere prepared from Polyester and Viscose fibres hav-ing linear density 1.5 deniers. Three factors namelyblend ratio, mass per unit area and depth of needlepenetration were selected at three equidistant levels(Table 2.1). The Box-Behnken design was used toprepare the sample.

Table 2.1: Three levels of factors

Factors (-1) (0) (1)

Blend Ratio (P:V) 20:80 50:50 80:20

Mass per unit area (gsm) 100 150 200

Needle Penetration (mm) 4 6 8

The needle-punched nonwoven samples were producedat DKTE Centre of Excellence in Nonwovens,Ichalkaranji. The fibers were opened and blended byhand, and then fed to the blender for further intenseblending. The blended fibers were fed to the Trutzschlercard and the webs formed were oriented in a cross-machine direction using a cross-lapper to get the webof the required weight per unit area.The webs were

A Study of Air Permeability and Ventilation Resistance ofNeedle Punched Nonwovens

V. K. Dhange & Dr. P. V. Kadole*D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute

Abstract :In this study, an investigation of the air permeability and ventilation resistance of the polyester/viscoseblended needle-punched nonwovens has been carried out using the Box-Behnken design.Three differentblend ratios of polyester/viscose webs were created, cross-lapped and needle punched in three differentmass per unit areas and three different depths of needle penetration. Air permeability and ventilationresistance of thirteen nonwovens were determined by following standard test methods and the test resultswere statistically analyzed using Minitab software.In conclusion, within the ranges of measurements made,the most crucial factor having prime effectson the air permeability and ventilation resistance of nonwovensis fabric mass per unit area.

Keyword :Air permeability, blend ratio, Box-Behnken design, needle-punched nonwovens, ventilation resistance

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,V. K. Dhange, Asst. Prof.D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji, India (Affiliated to Shivaji University, Kolhapur)E-mail : [email protected]

PEER REVIEWEDNON-WOVENS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NON-WOVENS

then fed to the Trutzschler needling looms. For the firstneedling loom the line speed, feed rate, needle depth,andneedle density were set to 0.96 m/min, 4.61 mm, 8mm,and 136 / cm2respectively.For the second needlingloom the line speed, feed rate, and needle density wereset to 1.53 m/min, 5.31 mm, and 188 / cm2respectively.Needle depth in the second needling loom was changedfor each run as shown in Table 2.2.

Table 2.2 : Parameters for each run

Run Fabric Blend Mass per Needlenumber Code ratio (P:V) unit area Penetration

(gsm) (mm)

1 A1Y 20:80 100 6

2 C1Y 80:20 100 6

3 A3Y 20:80 200 6

4 C3Y 80:20 200 6

5 A2X 20:80 150 4

6 C2X 80:20 150 4

7 A2Z 20:80 150 8

8 C2Z 80:20 150 8

9 B1X 50:50 100 4

10 B3X 50:50 200 4

11 B1Z 50:50 100 8

12 B3Z 50:50 200 8

13 B2Y 50:50 150 6

14 B2Y 50:50 150 6

15 B2Y 50:50 150 6

2.2 Testing of nonwovensAll fabrics produced were conditioned for 24 hours inthe standard atmosphere before tested.Ten samples of10 cm ×10 cm were cut from the random parts of

each fabric and weighed individually using electronicbalance. The mean weight was used to calculate thefabric mass per unit area. The same samples weretested for thickness on the Mag Evolvics ThicknessTester. The thickness was measured after exerting apressure of 100gf/cm2 for 10 sec. The fabric densitywas calculated by using a mean of mass per unit areaand thickness, using the following formula:

Mass per unit area Density = ------------------------------- ×0.001

Thickness (mm)The constant 0.001 is derived from the following equa-tion:

100.001 = ------------

10000

where 10 is the conversion factor to the centimeter,10000 is the number of square centimeters in one squaremeter.

The air permeability of the nonwoven samples wasmeasured with both air permeability testing methods,using fixed flow and a fixed pressure. The KES-F8Air-permeability Tester was used to measure the ven-tilation resistance of the samples at a fixed air flowand the Kurups Innovations Air-permeability Tester wasused to measure the air permeability of the samples inaccordance with the standard testing methods at a fixedair pressure.The KES-F8 provides ventilation resistance(R) in kPa.s/m, whereas Kurups Innovations Air-per-meability Tester provides air permeability values in cc/sq.cm/sec.

3. Results and discussion3.1 Statistical analysisAll the experimental results are listed in Table 3.1.

ADVERTISEMENT INDEXA.T.E. A-7 Lakshmi Machine Works A-1Colourjet Gatefold LOEFE Cover3GITS Ichalkaranji A-9 Precision Rubber Ind. Pvt. Ltd. A-12Intex South Asia Gatefold Reliance Industries Ltd. Cover 1ITMA A-8 Rieter India Ltd. A-3ITMACH A-10 Rieter India Ltd. (Components) Cover 2ITME AFRICA A-11 Trutzschler India A-5ITSE A-2 Unitech Techmech Cover 4ITTA A-4 Vibrant Terry Towel A-6


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NON-WOVENS

For statistical analysis of the data, Minitab softwarewas used.The regression equations for air permeabilityand ventilation resistance were developed by the soft-ware as follows:

Air Permeability(cc/sq. cm/sec) = 458.6 + 0.418 Polyester % - 4.103

GSM - 15.10 Needle Penetration- 0.00199 Polyester %*Polyester% + 0.010535 GSM*GSM+ 0.348 Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration - 0.00292Polyester %*GSM+ 0.0625 Polyester %*NeedlePenetration + 0.0578 GSM*NeedlePenetration

Ventilation Resistance(kPa.s/m) = -0.0714 - 0.000361 Polyester % +

0.002050 GSM- 0.0025 Needle Penetration+ 0.000003 Polyester %*Polyester %- 0.000003 GSM*GSM+ 0.00063 Needle Penetration*NeedlePenetration+ 0.000000 Polyester %*GSM- 0.000000 Polyester %*Needle Penetration- 0.000050 GSM*Needle Penetration

The Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) tables for airpermeability and ventilation resistance are given in Table3.2 and Table 3.3 respectively.

Fabric Measured Mass Thickness Fabric density Air Permeability Ventilation ResistanceCode per unit area (mm) (g/cm3) (cc/sq.cm/sec) (kPa.s/m)

(gsm)

A1Y 99.21 1.29 0.077 120.13 0.07

C1Y 89.46 1.14 0.078 142.56 0.07

A3Y 203.10 1.26 0.161 49.17 0.16

C3Y 192.56 1.14 0.169 54.11 0.16

A2X 161.81 1.90 0.085 65.84 0.13

C2X 156.94 1.74 0.090 63.41 0.12

A2Z 162.01 0.92 0.176 62.18 0.13

C2Z 146.80 2.64 0.056 74.75 0.12

B1X 99.51 1.04 0.096 133.19 0.08

B3X 199.53 2.01 0.099 53.09 0.17

B1Z 97.24 2.36 0.041 124.71 0.07

B3Z 188.61 2.41 0.078 67.72 0.14

B2Y 157.22 1.60 0.098 66.95 0.12

B2Y 157.22 1.60 0.098 66.95 0.12

B2Y 157.22 1.60 0.098 66.95 0.12

ADVERTISE IN

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION

For more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922

E-mail : [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]

Website: www.textileassociationindia.org


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NON-WOVENS

Table 3.2: ANOVA for air permeability

Source DF Adj SS Adj MS F-Value P-Value

Model 9 14071.0 1563.4 78.43 0.000

Linear 3 11188.8 3729.6 187.09 0.000

Polyester % 1 175.9 175.9 8.82 0.031

GSM 1 10989.0 10989.0 551.25 0.000

Needle Penetration 1 23.9 23.9 1.20 0.323

Square 3 2615.9 872.0 43.74 0.001

Polyester %*Polyester % 1 11.9 11.9 0.60 0.475

GSM*GSM 1 2561.2 2561.2 128.48 0.000

Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration 1 7.1 7.1 0.36 0.576

2-Way Interaction 3 266.2 88.7 4.45 0.071

Polyester %*GSM 1 76.5 76.5 3.84 0.107

Polyester %*Needle Penetration 1 56.3 56.3 2.82 0.154

GSM*Needle Penetration 1 133.5 133.5 6.70 0.049

Error 5 99.7 19.9

Lack-of-Fit 3 99.7 33.2 * *

Pure Error 2 0.0 0.0

Total 14 14170.7

Table 3.3: ANOVA for ventilation resistance

Source DF Adj SS Adj MS F-Value P-Value

Model 9 0.015073 0.001675 27.91 0.001

Linear 3 0.014700 0.004900 81.67 0.000

Polyester % 1 0.000050 0.000050 0.83 0.403

GSM 1 0.014450 0.014450 240.83 0.000

Needle Penetration 1 0.000200 0.000200 3.33 0.127

Square 3 0.000273 0.000091 1.52 0.318

Polyester %*Polyester % 1 0.000023 0.000023 0.38 0.562

GSM*GSM 1 0.000208 0.000208 3.46 0.122

Needle Penetration*Needle Penetration 1 0.000023 0.000023 0.38 0.562

2-Way Interaction 3 0.000100 0.000033 0.56 0.667

Polyester %*GSM 1 0.000000 0.000000 0.00 1.000

Polyester %*Needle Penetration 1 0.000000 0.000000 0.00 1.000

GSM*Needle Penetration 1 0.000100 0.000100 1.67 0.253

Error 5 0.000300 0.000060

Lack-of-Fit 3 0.000300 0.000100 * *

Pure Error 2 0.000000 0.000000

Total 14 0.015373


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NON-WOVENS

The parameters having p-values lower than 0.05 havea significant effect on air permeability and ventilationresistance of nonwovens. Pareto charts for air perme-ability and ventilation resistance are shown in Figure3.1.

Figure 3.1 : Pareto Chart for Air Permeability andVentilation Resistance

ANOVA tables and Pareto charts indicate that theprime factor having great influence on both air perme-ability and ventilation resistance is the fabric mass perunit area, and there is no significant interaction be-tween blend components and process parameters.

3.2 Effect of fabric mass per unit area and blendratioThe effect of fabric mass per unit area and blend ratioon thickness, air permeability and ventilation resistanceof nonwoven are demonstrated with contour plots inFigure 3.2, Figure 3.3 and Figure 3.4.

Figure 3.2 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area andblend ratio on thickness

Figure 3.3 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area andblend ratio on air permeability

Figure 3.4 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area andblend ratio on ventilation resistance

It is observed from the figures that for all fabric massper unit areas, the thickness of the fabrics increaseswith the increase in polyester content in the blend till60 %.This is because the density of polyester fibre islower than that of viscose fiber. Hence, increasing theproportion of polyester in the blend produces bulkierfabrics. Maximum thickness is observed when fabricmass per unit area is 180 gsm and polyester contentlies between50-70%.

It is observed that when the fabric mass per unit areais increased, air permeability decreases and ventilationresistance increases. Fabric density also increases with

Make more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and services


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NON-WOVENS

the increase in fabric weight.The decrease in air per-meability and increase in ventilation resistance with theincrease in fabric weight can be ascribed to the highertotal surface area of the heavierand dense fabric.Theair permeability slightly increases with the increase inpolyester content in the blend for all fabric mass perunit area, which may be due to the low packing densityof the polyester.

3.3 Effect of depth of needle penetration and fabricmass per unit area

The effect of fabric mass per unit area and needlepenetration on the air permeability and ventilation re-sistance values at the constant level of polyester con-tent in the blend (50%) are shown in Figure 3.5 andFigure 3.6.

Figure 3.5 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area andneedle penetration on air permeability

Figure 3.6 : Effect of fabric mass per unit area andneedle penetration on ventilation resistance

The initial increase in needle penetration causesa slightdecrease in the air permeability. It may be due to thefact that with the increase in depth of needle penetra-tion more number of fibres will be trapped by the barbsresulting in an enhanced interlocking of fibres. This

increased interlocking of the fibres offer more resis-tance to air flow and so the permeability of the fabricreduces. This effect is more pronounced at lower valuesof mass per unit area and at lower penetration. Withthe increase of fabric mass per unit area and needlepenetration, increasing trend in air permeability anddecreasing trend in ventilation resistance has beenobserved. With the increase in needle penetration athigher fabric weight, more number of fibres will break,and it will cause an increase in the size of the pores.This change in the fibre alignment and number of poresmay result in less air drag, which may be outweighingover the effect of the interlocking of the fibres, whichcauses the ventilation resistance to decrease and airpermeability values of the fabric to increase.

3.4 Effect of blend ratio and depth of needle pen-etrationThe effect of polyester content in the blend and needlepenetration on the air permeability and ventilation re-sistance values at the constant level of mass per unitarea (150 gsm) are shown in Figure 3.7 and Figure3.8.

Figure 3.7: Effect of blend ratio and needle penetrationon air permeability

Figure 3.8: Effect of blend ratio and needle penetrationon ventilation resistance


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NON-WOVENS

Figures show that for all values of blend ratio, ventila-tion resistance reduces with increase in needle pen-etration. Air permeability increases with higher polyes-ter content in the blend at a higher depth of needlepenetration. This may be due to the bulkiness and highbending rigidity of polyester fibres and a greater num-ber of fibre breakages at higher needle penetration.Conclusion

The work reported in this paper was concerned withthe measurement of ventilation resistance and air per-meability on a series of nonwoven fabrics. Within theranges of measurements made, it was found that themost prominent factor very closely associated with airpermeability and ventilation resistance was the fabricmass per unit area. Increase in fabric weight increasesventilation resistance. Air permeability increases withhigher polyester content in the blend at a higher depthof needle penetration and lower fabric mass per unitarea. The contour graphs will be useful in getting aseries of amalgamations of fabric mass per unit area,depth of needle penetration &fibre content in theblendfor a definite air permeability or ventilation resis-tance.

References1. Anandjiwala R.D. and Boguslavsky L.,Textile Res

J,78 (7), 614, (2008).2. Atwal M.S.,Textile Res J.57(10), 574, (1987).3. Cincik E. and Koc E., Textile Res J,82 (5), 430,

(2012).4. Davis N.C.,Textile Res J,28(4), 318, (1954).5. Debnath S. and Madhusoothanan M., Indian

Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 36, 122,(2011)

6. Dent R.W.,J Textile Inst,46(6), 220, (1976)7. Kothari V.K. and Newton A.,J Textile Inst, 65(8),

525, (1974).8. Mohammadi M., Banks-Lee P. and Ghadimi P., J

Industrial Textiles, 32 (1), 45, (2002).9. Mohammadi M., Banks-Lee P. andGhadimi P., J

Industrial Textiles, 32 (2), 139, (2002).10. Rawal A.,J Textile Inst, 97 (6), 527, (2006).11. Rawal A. and Anandjiwala R.,Geotextiles and

Geomembranes, 25, 61, (2007).12. Subramaniam V., Madhusoothanan M.and Debnath

C.R.,Textile Res J,58(11), 677, (1988).

❑ ❑ ❑


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

PEER REVIEWED APPAREL

1. IntroductionStitches are used to join the apparel components andseams givethe shape of the apparel for wear. Thesetwo factors togetherand their performance propertiesadd to the quality of theapparel products. Seam inter-relate with the components of the fabric to ensure thebest product stability. The quality ofapparel productsdepends on two factors, physical propertiesandperformance features [2].

The visual and functionalrequirements of the apparelare mainly contingent with theperformance features.Visual requirements are grounded onpatterns, design,colors, trends and accessories used. Thefunctional re-quirements for the apparel are more associated tothedurability of the apparel end use The Seam enhancesservice ability and durability for functional performanceof the fabric.

Better quality and lower cost are the most basic fac-tors for the success of apparel industry. Challenge is toreduce the cost while maintaining the quality standards.Quality of the product has been given major impor-tance in the garment assembly [4].Quality seams inapparel contribute to the overall performance of theapparel in use. Poor quality seam makes apparel unus-able even though the fabric may be in good condition[6].

The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seamarestrength, elasticity, durability, security and appear-ance. Thesecharacteristics must be balanced with theproperties of thematerial to be joined to form the op-timum sewn seam [1].Other factors also influence toaccomplish of these characteristicsin a properly con-structed sewn seam. Such factors includetype andweight of fabric, seam type, type of needle, threadtypeand size, and stitches per inch [3].

As seam is one of the basic requirements in the con-struction of apparel, seam quality has great significancein apparel products. Seam quality relies on the type ofthe seam and stitches per unit length of the seam, the

Influence of Stitch Density and Sewing Thread Count on theSeam Performance of Denim Fabric

Dr. Shweta Tuteja1* & Ms. Poulomi Sen1

1Department of Textile Science, Clothing & Fashion Studies, J. D. Birla Institute,

Abstract :Seam quality an important aspect of any form of textile assembly using seam is characterized by seamstrength, seam elongation, seam efficiency and seam puckering. The purpose and objective of this studywas to investigate and scrutinize the impact of commercial sewing thread counts and stitch densities onseam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency on medium-heavy and heavy weight cotton denimfabrics. For the experimental work, core spun polyester sewing thread in three different counts (Tex-60, Tex-90, and Tex-150) was selected. Lapped seam using Stitch Class-300 (Lock Stitch) at two different stitchdensities (SPI 10 and SPI 13) were used on 3/1 right handed warp face twill woven cotton fabric. The effectof different sewing thread size and different levels of stitch densities was assessed on the selected seamparameters. The interaction effect of the independent variables was also investigated. The experimentalresults were evaluated statistically using variance analysis (ANOVA) and regression models which correlateseam quality with stitch density and sewing thread size for both medium-heavy & heavy type of fabrics.The findings of the study revealed that for all the three seam parameters, an increasing trend was seen withthe increase in the sewing thread count at higher value of stitch density on both the fabrics for both theseams. Statistically, it was found that for both types of fabric, medium-heavy and heavy weight denimfabricssome of the independent variables have significant effect on the seam quality. It was seen thatstatistically there was a significant interaction between stitch density, sewing thread count and fabric weighton strength, elongation and efficiency of lapped seam.

Keywords :Lapped Seam, Sewing Thread count, Stitch Density, Seam Strength, Seam Elongation, Seam Efficiency

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,Dr. Shweta Tuteja,Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Science,Clothing & Fashion Studies,J.D. Birla Institute, Kolkata (India)Email : [email protected]


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

thread tension and the seam efficiency of the fabric[7]. So, it is necessary to determine the most appropri-ate seam for each type of fabric to achieve a desiredproduct quality. Quality reflects the performance of theapparel or textile product. Distinct seams are suitablefor particular fabrics because each fabric has its ownunique properties. The fiber content influences theoverall characteristics of a fabric. Understanding thecomponents of the fabric and the quality of the seamwill ensure the best performance for that particularproduct[5].

Thus, the present study was planned to investigate theeffect of sewing thread count & stitch density on theseam quality of 3/1 twill woven cotton denim fabric ofmedium-heavy & heavy weights using lappedseam. Thespecific objectives of the study were:

1. To investigate the performance of different sew-ing thread counts on seam quality.

2. To determine the effect of different levels of stitchdensity on seam strength, elongation and efficiency.

2.Materials &Methods2.1 Selection of Fabrics100% cotton 3/1 right handed warp faced twill wovendenim fabrics in two different weights medium-heavyand heavy weight were used. The constructional pa-rameters of the test fabric are presented below in Table2.1.

Table 2.1: Construction Particulars of Test Fabric

Parameters Medium- Heavy Heavy WeightWeight Cotton Denim Cotton DenimFabric Fabric

Warp Count (Tex) 84 118

Weft Count (Tex) 74 84

Fabric Thickness (mm) 0.54 0.71

EPI 46 44

PPI 21 19

GSM 317 386

2.2 Selection of Seam ParametersThe various parameters selected for seaming are givenbelow in Table 2.2 &2.3.2.3 Seam PreparationThe seam samples were prepared according to ASTMD1683-04 method. Each specimen of the fabric wascut in the warp and weft direction into 350 mm (14inches) length and 100 mm (4 inches) width.For seamstrength testing, five specimens each for warp and

weft was prepared from each fabric type for all thethree different counts of sewing thread at both thestitch densities level.

Table 2.2 : Selected Sewing Parameters

Parameters Specifications

Seam Class Lapped Seam

Type of Stitch Lock Stitch-300

Stitch Class 301

Needle Size Metric 110/18

Stitch Density 10 & 13 SPI

Sewing Machine Industrial single needle lock stitch

Machine Speed (rpm) 1000

Table 2.3 : Specification of Sewing Threads

Raw Material Specifications

Material 100% Core spun polyester

Ply Double

Sewing ThreadLinear Density 60 Tex, 90 Tex&150 Tex

The specimen was folded at 100mm (4") from one endwith the fold parallel to the short direction of thefabric.The lapped seam was then applied using lockstitch with two different types of stitch densities, par-allel to warp and weft direction. The seam allowancewas fixed at 0.625". Seam strength, seam elongationand seam efficiency was tested using the MAGUnistretch 250 tester according to method ASTMD1683 - 04 with the following specifications

Table 2.4 : Seam Strength Testing Parameters

Parameters Specifications

Test Type Grab Test

Extension Range 300 mm/min

Test Speed 100mm/min

Gauge length 75mm

Load cell 250 kg

Jaw return rate 20%

Pretension 100 gms

With the fabric in the open front position into the clampand seam line centrally located between the clampsand perpendicular to the pulling force. Maximum forceneeded to break the seam perpendicular to the direc-

APPAREL


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

APPAREL

tion of extension was recorded. Observation was madein order to make sure that the seam failure is due tobreak not due to fabric tears. The mean of the re-corded maximum forces for seams to rupture for allthe samples of one fabric was calculated.

2.4 Analysis of DataTo find out the performance and interaction betweentwo levels of stitch density and three levels of sewingthread count on the lappedseam quality of medium -heavy and heavy weight cotton denim fabric: Two-Way ANOVA, Multi-Way ANOVA and Regressionequation was used.

3. Results and discussion3.1 Medium-Heavy Weight Denim Fabric3.1.1 Effect on Seam StrengthPerusal of Graph 3.1 & 3.2 reveals that overall theseam strength is higher in warp direction as comparedto filling direction. The graph with average seamstrength for lapped seams produced using differentsewing thread counts at varied stitch density shows adefinite trend. The maximum strength values of me-dium-heavy weight denim fabric at 13 SPI was foundto be 554.07 Newton in warp and 454.57 Newton inweft direction for 150 Tex count sewing thread. It maybe due to the fact that higher thread size holds thefabric plies more firmly than the lower thread size andthis happens due to the fact that higher thread sizegives higher cover factor to the sewing thread.

Overall, the seam strength values ranges from 391.28to 554.07 Newton (warp) and 338.33 to 454.57 New-ton (weft) for stitch density 13 at different sewingthread count ranging from 60 to 150 Tex. The range ofaverage seam strength of lapped seam at 10 SPI is358.92 to 517.79 Newton in warp and 297.14 to 343.23Newton in filling direction at different count of sewingthread. This means that the higher sewing thread sizesin conjunction with more stitches per inch are suitablefor medium-heavy weight cotton denim fabrics.

The statistical analysis revealed that the P-Value re-garding the test of two levels of stitch density for warpdirection do not have significant effect on the seamstrength. The P-Value regarding the test of three typesof sewing thread size for warp direction have signifi-cant difference on seam tensile strength.For weft di-rection, two levels of stitch density and three levels ofsewing thread count do not have any significant effecton the seam strength.

The regression relationship which correlates the seamtensile strength, with stitch density and sewing threadsize for both the directions, has the following linearform: seam strength (Newton) = 221.009 + 1.213 SewingThread + 19.204 Stitch Density - 96.347 Direction.The calculated R2 value for the model is 80.7%. Thismeans that these models fit the data very well.

Graph 3.1: Seam Strength Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Countsfor Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp

Direction)

Graph 3.2: Seam Strength Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Countsfor Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft

Direction)

3.1.2 Effect on Seam ElongationSeam elongation is defined as the ratio of the extendedlength after loading to the original length of the seam.Graph 3.3 &3.4 clearly shows effect of sewing threadsize at two different stitch densities on the seam elon-


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

APPAREL

gation for the medium-heavy weight fabrics. It can beseen that increasing the sewing thread size from 60 to150 Tex increased the seam elongation in general butthe value dropped a little at 90 Tex. It is also apparentthat the seam elongation is augmented with the in-crease in the stitch density.The highest elongation valuewas found at 13 SPI using 150 Tex count of threadwith values of 24.1 mm in warp and 23.4 mm in weftdirection. The seam elongation values decreased a littleat the medium count of sewing thread i.e. at 90 Tex inthe warp direction and remain constant at both thestitch density levels in the weft direction.

Graph 3.3: Seam Elongation Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Warp Direction)

Graph 3.4: Seam Strength Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Weft Direction)

The statistical analysis tabulated for seam elongationfor both warp and weft direction revealed that the P-Value for two levels of stitch density and three levelsofsewing thread count is greater than the level of sig-nificance (0.05) concluding that there is no significanteffect of these variations on seam elongation.

The regression relationship is of the linear form in bothwarp & weft directions. The linear regression modelhas the following form: Seam elongation (mm) = 1.741+ .027 Sewing Thread + 1.622 Stitch Density - 2.867Direction. The calculated R2 value for this model is74%. This means that these models do not fit the data.

3.1.3 Effect on Seam EfficiencyData elucidated in graph 3.5 shows a constant increas-ing trend on the seam efficiency with the increasingcount of sewing thread at higher value of stitch den-sity. The increase in sewing thread count (60, 90 &150 Tex) at higher stitch density level leads to theincrease in the seam efficiency from 76.50 per cent to89.76 per cent in the warp direction and from 57.05per cent to 73.69 per cent in the weft direction.

Graph 3.5 : Seam Efficiency Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Warp Direction)

Graph 3.6: Seam Efficiency Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Medium-Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Weft Direction)


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

APPAREL

Statistically, the P-Value for the two levels of stitchdensity and three levels of sewing thread count onseam efficiency is greater in warp direction and smallerin weft direction than the level of significance (0.05)reveals significant effect in weft and non-significanteffect in warp directions.

The linear regression for medium-heavy weight cottondenim fabric has the following form: seam efficiency(%) = 57.305 + .166 Sewing Thread + 2.591 StitchDensity - 22.001 Direction. It was found that this modelfit the data very well with a high R2 value, which is95.3%.

3.2 Heavy Weight Denim Fabric3.2.1 Effect on Seam StrengthThe strength values were checked in both warp andweft directions with more strength value in warp ascompared to weft. The strength value of heavy weightdenim fabric for stitch per inch 13 was maximum whensewn using lapped seam with 150 Tex thread (719.80N -warp &657.04- weft direction).

The variation of seam strength according to the varia-tion of sewing thread count at 13 SPI ranges from467.77 to 719.80 Newton in the warp direction and397.17 to 657.04 Newton in the weft direction. Thismeans coarser the sewing thread higher will be theseam strength values. At 10 SPI with different valuesof sewing thread (60, 90 & 150 Tex) the values rangesfrom252.03 to 478.56 Newton (warp) and 373.63 to406.97 Newton (weft).

Graph 3.7 : SeamStrength Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Warp Direction)

Graph 3.8 : Seam Strength Comparison at DifferentStitch Density using Different Sewing Thread Counts

for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric(Weft Direction)

The statisticalanalysis proves that for both the indepen-dent variables (two levels of stitch density& three lev-els of sewing thread size) there is a significant impacton the seam strength at 0.05 significant levels, sincethe P-Value is smaller in all the cases for warpdirection.The analysis also proves that for both theindependent variables there is no significant impact onthe seam strength at 0.05 significant levels, since theP-Value is greater in weft direction.

The regression relationship which correlates the seamtensile strength, with which stitch density and sewingthread size in warp direction, has the following linearform: seam tensile strength (Newton) =- 352.025 +2.044 Sewing Thread + 60.637 Stitch Density - 51.483Direction.The R2 value for this modelis 80.1%. Thismeans that this model fits the data well.

3.2.2 Effect on Seam ElongationGraph 3.9&3.10 clearly shows that seam elongationvalues are more in the warp direction than in the weftdirection and there is a constant increasing trend. Seamelongation increases with the increase in the sewingthread size (60 to 150 Tex) from 28.9 mm to 33.8 mmin the warp direction and from 18.6 mm to 30.5 mm inthe weft direction for stitch density 13. It was foundthat the seam elongation decreased a little at the mod-erate value (90 Tex) of sewing thread count.

Texttreasure

Science is organized knowledge. Wisdom isorganized life

- Immanuel Kant


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

APPAREL


for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)


for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)

The statistical analysis for warp direction revealed thatthe P-Value regarding the test of two levels of stitchdensity is smaller than the level of significance andthree levels of sewing thread size is greater than thelevel of significance (0.05). So, we accept that stitchdensity has a significant effect and sewing thread countdoes not have any significant effect on seamelongation.The statistical analysis for weft directionrevealed that the P-Value regarding the test of twoindependent variablesare greater than the level of sig-nificance (0.05). So, we accept that two independentvariablesdo not have any significant effect on seamelongation.

The linear regression relationship in warp direction, hasthe following linear form: Seam Elongation (mm) =-10.342 + 0.055 Sewing Thread + 3.267 Stitch Density- 6.467 Direction. The R2 value for this modelis equal65.3%. This means that the modeldoes not fit the datawell.

3.2.3 Effect on Seam EfficiencyIt is shown that seam efficiency has increased withthe increase in sewing thread count from 60 to 150Tex at higher value of stitch density for heavy weightdenim fabric. The average seam efficiency is higher inwarp direction as compared to weft direction and fol-lows the similar trend as the seam strength.

As the sewing thread number increases the seam ef-ficiency also increases. The increase in sewing threadcount at 13 SPI leads to the increase in seam effi-ciency from 83.13 per cent to 97.58 per cent in thewarp direction and 70.82 per cent to 81.26 per cent inthe weft direction Stitch density was found to have apositive influence on the seam efficiency. Higher seamefficiency is associated with higher stitch densities.


for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Warp Direction)


for Heavy Weight Cotton Denim Fabric (Weft Direction)


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

APPAREL

The statistical analysis revealed that the P-Value re-garding the test of two levels of stitch density andthree types of sewing thread count is greater than thelevel of significance, which is 0.05 for both the direc-tions. So we accept that two levels of stitch density donot have significant difference on seam efficiency.The linear regression model which correlates the inde-pendent variables to the seam efficiency in warp direc-tion has the following form: seam efficiency (%) =46.208 + .173 Sewing Thread + 4.123 Stitch Density- 23.152 Direction. It was found that the model fit thedata very well with a high 89.8 R2 value which is %.

ConclusionThis study will thus provide information on proper sew-ing thread selection in the manufacturing of apparel.The current study offers scientific basis for the con-ventional practice (i.e., the use of different stitch den-sities and thread types in sewing different types offabrics). By defining the relation between seam quali-ties and sewing thread counts and stitch density inrelation to the weight of the fabric, apparel manufac-turers can make decision about the optimal sewingthread selection in apparel manufacturing. Comprisingthe knowledge of a specific seam that produces thegreatest seam strength will be highly beneficial for newtests and products.

References1. ASTM D6193-09. Standard Practice for Stitches

and Seams. Retrieved from http://www.astm.org/standards/D6193.htm,(2009).

2. Brown, P. and Rice, J. Ready to Wear ApparelAnalysis. Prentice Hall, New Jersey, US,45,(2001).

3. Danquah, Patience Asieduah. The Effect ofThread Type, Stitch Density and Washing on SeamPerformance of a Ghananian Real Wax CottonPrinted Fabric. Retrieved from http://ir.ucc.edu.gh/dspace/bitstream/123456789/1217/1/DANQUAH%202010.pdf),(2010).

4. Fernando, S. & Jayawardena, T. Measurement ofSeam Puckering and Influence of its Causes. IOSRJournal of Engineering (IOSRJEN), 4 (4),1,(2014). doi: 10.9790/3021-04460107.

5. Lapere, C. The Effects of Different Fabric Typesand Seam Designs on the Seams Efficiency.Eastern Michigan University Digital Commons,5 (3), 1,(2006).

6. Mehta, P.V. & Bhardwaj, K.S. Managing Qualityin the Apparel Industry,New Age InternationalPublishers Ltd,India, 85, (1998).

7. Nassif, A. A. N. Investigation of the Effects ofSewing Machine Parameters on the Seam Qual-ity. Life Science Journal, 10(2), 1427,(2013).

❑ ❑ ❑

The Textile Association (India) Visit us

on www.textileassociationindia.org

Follow us on


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

TEXPERIENCE

Carbon dioxide, the most important greenhouse gas produced by combus-tion of fuels, has become a cause of global panic as its concentration inthe Earth's atmosphere has been rising alarmingly.

This devil, however, is now turning into a product that helps people, coun-tries, consultants, traders, corporations and even farmers earn billions ofrupees. This was an unimaginable trading opportunity not more than adecade ago.

Carbon credits are a part of international emission trading norms. Theyincentives companies or countries that emit less carbon. The total annualemissions are capped and the market allocates a monetary value to anyshortfall through trading. Businesses can exchange, buy or sell carboncredits in international markets at the prevailing market price.

India and China are likely to emerge as the biggest sellers and Europe isgoing to be the biggest buyers of carbon credits.

India is one of the countries that have 'credits' for emitting less carbon.India and China have surplus credit to offer to countries that have adeficit.

Carbon, like any other commodity, has begun to be traded on India's MultiCommodity Exchange. MCX has become first exchange in Asia to tradecarbon credits.

◆◆◆◆◆ What is carbon credit?As Nations have progressed, we have been emitting carbon, or gaseswhich result in warming of the globe. Some decades ago a debate startedon how to reduce the emission of harmful gases that contributes to thegreenhouse effect that causes global warming. So, countries came togeth-er and signed an agreement named the Kyoto Protocol.

The Kyoto Protocol has created a mechanism under which countries thathave been emitting more carbon and other gases (greenhouse gases in-clude ozone, carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide and even water va-pour) have voluntarily decided that they will bring down the level of carbonthey are emitting to the levels of early 1990s.

Developed countries, mostly European, had said that they will bring downthe level in the period from 2008 to 2012. In 2008, these developed coun-tries have decided on different norms to bring down the level of emissionfixed for their companies and factories.

A company has two ways to reduce emissions. One, it can reduce theGHG (greenhouse gases) by adopting new technology or improving uponthe existing technology to attain the new norms for emission of gases. Orit can tie up with developing Nations and help them set up new technology

Carbon Credit Information

Mr. Vilas Gharat is working as a ManagingDirector of Gharat& Associates, having over40 years' experience in manufacturing functionin all composite sectors of Textile Industry. Outof which more than a decade in Operations andHR with emphasis in Business ProcessConsulting,Mr.Gharat is having Specialization in variousfield of textile value chain like;◆ Change Management, Business

Development and Project Management◆ Project Management, Business

Development◆ Supply Chain Management◆ Resource allocation◆ Process Reengineering◆ Change management, Production and

Business◆ Planning function◆ Training and Mentoring CEO'sHe has wide experience in:◆ Business Consultant for Oswal Hammerle,

for their upcoming state of art technologyplant for manufacture of sophisticatedYarn Dyed Shirting Project, primarilycatering to the needs of internationalgarment manufacturers. This is a JointVenture project of Oswal group and F.M.Hammerle (Austria)

◆ His previous assignment involvesrestructuring and transformation of alarge Textile units

◆ He worked with various executivecapacities as Executive Director - SuvinAdvisors Pvt Ltd.; Senior President in SKumar's., Technical & Commercial Advisorin J.K. Cotton Mills, Senior President inMorarjee Brembana Ltd., Birla's inIndonesia, Oswal Hammerle, Bhojsons,Nigeria etc.

Mr. Gharat was awarded with FTA by The TextileAssociation (India) in 1999, Best GeneralManager Award in MSTC - National Award forenergy conservation for Simplex Mills & MSTCand Best Vendor Award from Johnson &Johnson.He was in Advisory Committee Member forDKTE - Textile & Engineering Institute atIchalkaranji from 2013 to 2016.He conducts a various professional trainingsof Transformation of Leadership Program,Training in Valle Brembana for High Value YarnDyed Shirting. (Italy), Breaking the barrierconcept training, Training for Mentoring.Presently Mr. Gharat is Managing Director:Gharat & Associates(www.gharatandassociates.com),Group Advisors: S Kumars Pvt. Ltd.(www.skumars.co) and Presidentof The TextileAssociation (India) - Mumbai Unit(http://textileassociationindia.com)

Mr. Vilas Gharat


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

that is eco-friendly, thereby helping developing countryor its companies 'earn' credits.

India, China and some other Asian countries have theadvantage because they are developing countries. Anycompany, factories or farm owner in India can getlinked to United Nations Framework Convention onClimate Change and know the 'standard' level of car-bon emission allowed for its outfit or activity. The extentto which I am emitting less carbon (as per standardfixed by UNFCCC) I get credited in a developingcountry. This is called carbon credit.

These credits are bought over by the companies ofdeveloped countries -- mostly Europeans -- becausethe United States has not signed the Kyoto Protocol.

◆◆◆◆◆ How does it work in real life?Assume that British Petroleum is running a plant in theUnited Kingdom. Say, that it is emitting more gasesthan the accepted norms of the UNFCCC. It can tieup with its own subsidiary in, say, India or China underthe Clean Development Mechanism. It can buy the'carbon credit' by making Indian or Chinese plant moreeco-savvy with the help of technology transfer. It cantie up with any other company like Indian Oil [ GetQuote ], or anybody else, in the open market.

In December 2008, an audit will be done of their ef-forts to reduce gases and their actual level of emission.China and India are ensuring that new technologies forenergy savings are adopted so that they become enti-tled for more carbon credits. They are selling theircredits to their counterparts in Europe. This is how amarket for carbon credit is created.

Every year European companies are required to meetcertain norms, beginning 2008. By 2012, they willachieve the required standard of carbon emission. So,in the coming five years there will be a lot of carboncredit deals.

Message from UNFCCCCUN CLIMATE STATEMENT / 21 MAR, 2019UNFCCC 25th Anniversary: Climate Action is MoreUrgent than Ever

Children at COP23 opening ceremony in Bonn, Ger-manyCredit: UN Climate Change

UN Climate Change News, 21 March 2019 - Todaymarks a special day in the history of global climateaction: It marks the day when the UN FrameworkConvention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) first cameinto force. To celebrate the 25th anniversary of theentry into force, Patricia Espinosa, UN Climate ChangeExecutive Secretary delivered remarks on this impor-tant milestone and encouraged greater ambition andaction for a sustainable future. She said:

"While we've made enormous progress in 25 years, theworld is still running behind climate change. Today, theurgency to address climate change has never beengreater. But because of the work begun 25 years ago,we are also better coordinated to take it on. We havethe Paris Agreement, and we have the guidelinesstrengthening that agreement. What we need now areresults."

The EU's nationally determined contribution (NDC)under the Paris Agreement is to reduce greenhousegas emissions by at least 40% by 2030 compared to1990, under its wider 2030 climate and energy frame-work. All key legislation for implementing this targethas been adopted by the end of 2018.

◆◆◆◆◆ What is Clean Development Mechanism?Under the CDM you can cut the deal for carbon cred-it. Under the UNFCCC, charter any company fromthe developed world can tie up with a company in thedeveloping country that is a signatory to the KyotoProtocol. These companies in developing countries mustadopt newer technologies, emitting lesser gases, andsave energy.

Only a portion of the total earnings of carbon creditsof the company can be transferred to the company ofthe developed countries under CDM. There is a fixedquota on buying of credit by companies in Europe.

◆◆◆◆◆ How does MCX trade carbon credits?This entire process was not understood well by many.Those who knew about the possibility of earning prof-

TEXPERIENCE

Texttreasure

The first rule of intelligent tinkering is to saveall the parts.

- Paul R. Ehrlich


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

TEXPERIENCE

its, adopted new technologies, saved credits and sold itto improve their bottom-line.

Many companies did not apply to get credit even thoughthey had new technologies. Some companies usedmanagement consultancies to make their plan greenerto emit less GHG. These management consultanciesthen scouted for buyers to sell carbon credits. It wasa bilateral deal.

However, the price to sell carbon credits at was notavailable on a public platform.. It is traded on theEuropean Climate Exchange. Therefore, you emit onetonne less and you get credit. Emit less and increase/add to your profit.

We at the MCX decided to trade carbon credits be-cause we are in to futures trading. Let people judge ifthey want to hold on to their accumulated carbon cred-its or sell them now.

MCX is the futures exchange. People here are gettingprice signals for the carbon for the delivery in next fiveyears. Our exchange is only for Indians and Indiancompanies. Every year, in the month of December, thecontract expires and at that time people who havebought or sold carbon will have to give or take deliv-ery. They can fulfill the deal prior to December too,but most people will wait until December because thatis the time to meet the norms in Europe.

Say, if the Indian buyer thinks that the current price islow for him, he will wait before selling his credits. TheIndian government has not fixed any norms nor has itmade it compulsory to reduce carbon emissions to acertain level. So, people who are coming to buy fromIndians are actually financial investors. They are think-ing that if the Europeans are unable to meet their tar-get of reducing the emission levels by 2009 or 2010 or2012, then the demand for the carbon will increase andthen they may make more money.

So investors are willing to buy now to sell later. Thereis a huge requirement of carbon credits in Europe before2012. Only those Indian companies that meet theUNFCCC norms and take up new technologies will beentitled to sell carbon credits.

There are parameters set and detailed audit is donebefore you get the entitlement to sell the credit. InIndia, already 300 to 400 companies have carbon cred-its after meeting UNFCCC norms. Till MCX camealong, these companies were not getting best-suitedprice. Some were getting Euro 15 and some were

getting Euro 18 through bilateral agreements. Whenthe contract expires in December, it is expected thatprices will be firm up then.

On MCX we already have power, energy and metalcompanies who are trading. These companies are high-energy consuming companies. They need better tech-nology to emit less carbon.

Carbon credits are a key component of national andinternational attempts to mitigate the growth in con-centrations of greenhouse gases (GHGs). One CarbonCredit is equal to one ton of Carbon Dioxide or insome markets Carbon Dioxide equivalent gases. Car-bon trading is an application of an emissions tradingapproach. Greenhouse gas emissions are capped andthen markets are used to allocate the emissions amongthe group of regulated sources. The idea is to allowmarket mechanisms to drive industrial and commercialprocesses in the direction of low emissions or less"carbon intensive" approaches than are used when thereis no cost to emitting carbon dioxide and other GHGsinto the atmosphere. Since GHG mitigation projectsgenerate credits, this approach can be used to financecarbon reduction schemes between trading partnersand around the world.

There are also many companies that sell carbon cred-its to commercial and individual customers who areinterested in lowering their carbon footprint on a vol-untary basis. These carbon off setters purchase thecredits from an investment fund or a carbon develop-ment company that has aggregated the credits fromindividual projects. The quality of the credits is basedin part on the validation process and sophistication ofthe fund or development company that acted as thesponsor to the carbon project. This is reflected in theirprice; voluntary units typically have less value than theunits sold through the rigorously-validated Clean De-velopment Mechanism.

There are two distinct types of Carbon Credits: Car-bon Offset Credits (COC's) and Carbon ReductionCredits (CRC's). Carbon Offset Credits consist of cleanforms of energy production, wind, solar, hydro andbiofuels. Carbon Reduction Credits consists of thecollection and storage of Carbon from our atmospherethrough bio sequestration (reforestation, forestation),ocean and soil collection and storage efforts. Bothapproaches are recognized as effective ways to re-duce the Global Carbon Emissions "crises".

❑ ❑ ❑


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the TextileAssociation. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful toits unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physicalproperties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation,useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, andfinally ending up with its future prospects.

This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working ingraphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of grapheneand its application in textiles.

The previous chapter dealt with the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for hydrogen storage. Asthe energy storage capacity, electronic and quantum phenomena are still in ever-remaining need of improvement; thechapter offered us a wonderful tool for material designing and provided many insights and ideas for us to explorehydrogen storage materials.

The present chapter is based on the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for the electromagneticinterference shielding applications. As the electromagnetic properties, electronic and quantum phenomena are still inever-remaining need of improvement; this chapter offers us a wonderful tool for EMI shielding applications.

Chapter 13GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : EMI Shielding

Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

TEXNOTE

Graphene is a single atomic thick plane of graphiteand considered to be the thinnest material found inearth. It is characterized by sp2 bonded carbon atoms;densely packed in the form of a honeycomb crystallattice. It has unique distinguishing features that can beexploited in developing modern sophisticated electronicequipments. Some of such properties include its highsurface area, non-permeability to gases, very good ther-mal conductivity, stiffness and high electrical conduc-tivity, and many more. Due to all these excellent elec-trical, thermal, and conducting properties, it is one ofthe most explored functional materials for compositesapplication in modern electronic equipments, aerospacesectors, micro-electronics and energy storage materi-als.

The C-C bonds in graphene having length of about1.42 Å inside the given layers make them very muchstrong, whereas they are weaker in between the adja-cent layers. Stoller et al. reported specific surface areaof a single sheet of graphene as 2630 m2/g. Along withhigh Young's modulus (1.0 TPa) and very high carriermobility (around 200,000 cm2/Vs), graphene also hasexcellent optical properties (>97.7% transmittance), witha band gap value of about 0-0.25 eV.

An extraordinary conductivity enables graphene and itscomposites to be used for semiconductors. Applicationpotential of nano-graphene exhibiting excellent mag-netic properties in electronics and magnetic deviceswas reported by Enoki et al. Thermal conductivity of

graphene varied with relative ratio of carbon isotopes-12C and 13C. In general graphene has amazing futurein application of modern electronic gadgets, aerospace,medical instrumentation, automotive industry, etc.

EMI ShieldingIn our day to day life increasing number of electronicand energy devices are being used to make our lifemore and more comfortable. However, various elec-tronic gadgets like smart phones, laptops, computers,televisions fail to give their best performance due to anumber of hurdles and one such hurdle is electromag-netic interference (EMI) caused due to the crisscross-ing of such waves emitted from multiple equipments.On the other hand, there are also reports, indicating thepossible deteriorating effects on the health of a numberof living organisms due to such excessive exposure toEM waves, causing the health and safety issues. Hence,it is prudent to have new generation gadgets enclosedcompletely or partially with EMI shield, acting as abarrier and preventing entry or exit of electromagneticradiations thus avoiding there interference. Upon usingsuch EMI shields, not only the performance of suchgadgets will be improved significantly, but they wouldalso offer added safety against possible health hazards.Such gadgets with EMI shield will have increasedpotential of wider applications and acceptance. A num-ber of other applications of shielding materials involveshielded cables carrying signals which require to beprotected from outside EM radiations.


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

TEXNOTE

Since the electrical conductivity of graphene is directlyrelated to its effectiveness as shielding material, it hasbeen reported that it decreases with increase in num-ber of graphene layers and finally approaches the valueof the conductivity of graphite. In general electromag-netic shielding effectiveness (EMI-SE) can be takenas sum of absorption shielding efficiency (EMI-SE

abs)

and reflection shielding efficiency (EMI-SEref

).

Whenever the electromagnetic waves are incident onmore or less homogeneous shielding material, the inci-dent power in such waves (P

in) either get reflected

(Pref

), transmitted (Ptrans) or absorbed (Pabs

) and fi-nally splits into a number of forms.

Pin= P

ref+P

trans+P

abs

Normally shielding effectiveness is taken as a ratio ofpower transmitted/power incident and hence EMI-SE(dB) = 10log (P

trans/P

in). Shielding effectiveness (SET)

is also expressed by Saini et al. and can be measuredusing Scalar or Vector Network Analyzers (SNA orVNA).

While non-conducting materials such as polyester,polypropylene allow complete transmission of suchwaves without loss of power offering no protection,the conducting materials such as graphene and CNTsand those having high dielectric constant (Barium andTitanium) and the material with magnetic permeability(Ferrous/Ferric oxide) provide the magnetic dipoles forabsorption of the waves. Most of the time such shield-ing material absorbs the electromagnetic waves dissi-pating it in the form of heat and provides shieldingeffect.

The physical vapor deposition was used with varyingweight ratio of graphene and carbon nano- fibres. Thecomposite graphene carbon nano-fibre paper showedthe EMI-SE efficiency -15 dB. The maximum shield-ing effectiveness of -34.5 dB and corresponding lossrate of 99.97% imply pronounced absorption propertyof the composite materials due to irregularity in microsurface of the paper and highest electrical conductivityof graphene.

One of the graphene based EMI shielding materialsreports involves addition of epoxy/hardener (4:1 inacetone) solution to the suspension of partially reducedgraphene (rGO) based sheets. This suspension on stir-ring and sonication was put into a mould and the sol-vent was completely evaporated. The annealing of thecut samples of composite at 2500C for 2 h under nitro-gen was carried out to obtain fully reduced graphenebased composites. The EMI shielding of such compos-ites over the frequency range of 8.2-12.4 GHz (X band)

was found to be 21 dB for 15 wt% loading, displayingits promising potential as a shielding material. The resultsindicate promising potential of this lightweight graphene/epoxy composite.

The epoxy resins having alternating single and doublecarbon bonds create spatially delocalised electron sys-tems. Hence, the fillers like graphene and carbonnanotubes with very high conductivity can be used forpreparing the composites containing such carbon basedparticles for EMI shielding. Carbon nanotube andgraphene when embedded in such resins offer thecomposite material with high EMI-SE. However, thegeometry, composition, extent of the filler and the natureand morphology of the composite govern the finalperformance of the composite for offering protectionfrom electromagnetic radiations.

Porous graphene/polystyrene composites were preparedusing high pressure compression moulding technique.The EMI-SE of 64.4 dB cm3/gm was obtained for thislight weight composite and it was found to be maxi-mum for polymer based 2.5 mm thick shielding mate-rial. Such light weight material could have applicationsin aerospace industries.

The monolayer of graphene obtained by inductivelycoupled plasma (ICP) chemical vapor depositionshowed EMI-SE value of 2.27 dB corresponding to40% shielding of incident radiation. Ultrathin weight-less and transparent as well as flexible EMI shieldingmaterial thus was prepared using single or few atomiclayers of graphene. Such products have application inmobiles, transparent electronics, etc.

High performance microwave shielding material withEMI-SE 41 dB (99.9% attenuation) were obtainedwhen Ferro fluid composites of high conductivity werefabricated containing reduced graphene oxide (rGO)and Fe

3O

4 nano (5-20 nm) particles. The strong inter-

action between the rGO and Fe3O

4 particles was es-

tablished by Raman Spectroscopy reflecting the shiftof rGO at a lower wave length. Such a high level ofshielding was due to the cumulative contribution ofFerro fluids causing magnetic losses as a result ofnatural resonance and eddy currents. It was also dueto rGO causing dielectric losses attributed to naturalresonance, dipole relaxation, interfacial polarization,electron polarization related relaxation, residual defectsin rGO sheets and higher conductivity. Such materialshave great promise in building block materials withEMI shielding property.

Conventionally shielding materials of metallic typethough very effective, suffer from the problem of cor-


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

TEXNOTE

rosion and heavy weight and hence graphene has apromising application potential for shielding of radioand micro frequency range EM radiations. One of thereports indicates comparison of electromagnetic inter-ference shielding effectiveness (EMI-SE) in which thevacuum in filtration technique was used for making ofgraphene films. About 99.9% of attenuation of radia-tion was observed indicating very high degree of ef-fectiveness. Use of graphene with large aspect ratioand high conductivity makes it one of the best candi-dates for EMI shielding materials and many such re-ports exist about its applications.

EMI shielding property relationship and their ap-plicationsOne can go for all graphene circuitry with interconnec-tion obtained using pristine graphene and it is possibleto modify them into semiconductors. The functionalisedgraphene are more disordered in nature and productlike graphene paper possesses good porosity and ex-tremely fragile, fly like feather. Comparatively similarpaper made of graphene oxide has strength, stiffnessand high density. This is because the functional groupsbind the individual graphene layers together. Grapheneis being looked as a material with high applicationpotential in computer electronics. Graphene is used intransmission electron microscopy and it being singlecrystal and low atomic mass membrane, it provides abest imaginable support for atomic resolution TEM.Graphene based batteries, field emitters, super capaci-tors are also being reported. Suspensions of grapheneare used for coating and wherever electromagneticshielding is required. It is also a best material for nanoelectro mechanical systems which are used for sensingoperation due to its stiffness and lower weight.

A segregated structure of an in-situ thermally reducedgraphene oxide/polyethylene (T-rGO/UHMPE) conduc-tive composite gave an excellent EMI-SE up to 28.3-32.4 dB even at 0.660 vol.% of rGO. It was due toabsorption rather than reflection since contribution to-wards EMI-SE absorption was 95.5% of the total SEand EMI-SE reflection was only 3.5%. Also with in-crease in content of T-rGO in the composite, SE wasalso found to be increasing. Hence, thermally reducedgraphene oxide and ultra high modulus polyethylene(TRGO/UHMPE) composites can be used as EMIshielding or absorption materials for consumer, medicaland automotive electronics.

A multilayered graphene nanosheets/polymer (PVA)composite were prepared in paraffin-based sandwichstructures. They had good flexibility and showed highdegree of EMI-SE. This was mainly due to reflection

of electromagnetic waves. Depending upon the thresh-old value of EMI-SE for given application, optimisationof such composite geometry can be done which mayrequire varying thickness and thus increased numberof layers of graphene sheets may be used. The opti-mized shielding effectiveness up to 27 dB was ob-served. It provides simple techniques to achieve light-weight graphene-based composite films and coatingsfor EMI shielding.

A flexible and lightweight reduced graphene oxide-basedcomposite were prepared using electrospun waterbornepolyurethane (WPU) polymer matrix with sulfonatefunctional groups. The layer-by-layer (LBL) techniquewas used to prepare first graphene oxide (GO)/WPUcomposites. In this case two oppositely charged sus-pensions of GO, one containing cationic surfactant (di-dodecyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, DDAB) adsorbedGO and other with negatively charged GO were usedto cover WPU fibres with GO bi-layers. These WPUelectrospun fibres covered with GO established fineconnections. Subsequently on reduction of the sameusing hydroiodic acid gave highly reduced grapheneoxide (rGO)/WPU composites with enhanced surfacearea at the interface. Such flexible light weight com-posites displayed exceptionally high electrical conduc-tivity (approximately 16.8 S/m) and high EMI-shieldingeffectiveness (approximately 34 dB) over the frequencyrange from 8.2 to 12.4 GHz. Such materials can findapplications in soft portable electronic products, health-monitoring electronic skins and roll-up displays.

It is known that high electrical conductivity and thecompleteness of the networks of electrical conductionplay a big role in EMI-shielding performance of com-posites. WPU nano fibre after cycles of LBL assem-bly offer the continued conductive paths which onreduction form rGOs and thus display increased amountof EMI-SE. Increased surface area of rGO sheets atthe interface of nano composites enable absorption ofEM waves and prevent escape of the same convertingthem into heat energy and exhibiting high EMI-SE.This effect is mainly due to the absorption of EMradiations as EMI-SE for absorption was almost closeto the value of EMI-SE total and contribution due toreflection was negligible. With increase in the layers ofrGO on WPU up to 15 was conducive to increaseEMI-SE. However, at 20 layers, it does not show fur-ther increase simply because of inability of hyrdoiodicacid to reduce the lower layers of GO to enable theformation of connected networks.

A large thickness of low density graphene papers (GP)limits its use in consumer electronics. Hence, ultra thin


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

TEXNOTE

GPs are required. Such materials are reported forobtaining highly effective shielding capabilities (SE of19.0 dB at 0.1 mm thickness and 46.3 dB at 0.3 mmthickness). It is one of the best in category of thinnestGPs. For high SE of 47.7 dB at 0.1 mm, a doublelayered GP or shielding attenuators have been reportedwhich are cost effective, light weight and flexible.

EMI shielding effectiveness increased by 100 times incase of foamed composites compared to unfoamedcomposites of polycarbonate/graphene nanoplateletscomposites; where in super critical carbon dioxide wasused as a foaming agent. This EMI shielding is majorlybased on reflection mechanism and it was due to ran-domly oriented graphene particles during foaming. EMI-SE was found to be as high as 78 dB cm3/g which was7 times higher than solid copper.

SummaryGraphene has found a firm paramount role in revolu-tionizing the field of electronics which is increasingly indemand in various disciplines of science and technol-ogy. With improving life style, the complex needs ofthe modern day consumers, sometimes diametricallyopposite such as high electromagnetic interferenceshielding effectiveness with high degree of transpar-ency, has propelled the demand for such products. Asthe methods of synthesis of graphene are further beingfine tuned and bulk manufacturing with highest preci-sion in quality becomes possible, the devices based oncomposites of graphene will fall in the reach of thewider population due to lowering of the prices gettingthe benift of economies of scale.

The literature reviewed clearly indicates that the purityof graphene, thickness, lightness and transparency incomposites with polymer matrix, reactivity with suchmatrix, surface area, foaming of graphene based com-posites, etc have great influence on the electromag-netic shielding effectiveness. Since the relationship ofall these structural and process parameters on EMI-shielding effectiveness, thermal conductivity, etc arecorrelated with shielding mechanism based on reflec-tion, absorption, internal reflection and polarisation, etc,the manipulation of such parameters with reference tothe final performance in the form of extent of EMI-SEvalue required, is becoming scientifically possible.However, not all graphene based composites need tohave all kinds of performance properties in one mate-rial and thus special end use application of them, willdecide what properties are to be enhanced and finetuned.

Bibliography1. Novoselov K. S., Geim A. K. Morozov S. V., Jiang

D., Zhang Y., Dubonos S. A. and Firsov A. A.,Science, 306, 666-669, (2004).

2. Stoller M. D., Park S., Zhu Y., An J. and Ruoff R.S., Nano letters, 8, 3498-3502, (2008).

3. Geim A. K. and Novoselov K. S., Nature Mater., 6,183-191, (2007).

4. Enoki T. and Kobayashi Y., J. Mater. Chem., 15,3999-4002, (2005).

5. Chen S., Wu Q., Mishra C., Kang J., Zhang H.,Cho K. and Ruoff, R. S., Nature Mater, 11, 203-207, (2012).

6. Nirmalraj P. N., Lutz T., Kumar S., Duesberg G. S.and Boland J. J., Nano Lett., 11, 16-22, (2011).

7. Cao M. S., Song W. L., Hou Z. L., Wen B. andYuan J., Carbon, 48, 788-796, (2010).

8. Saini P., Choudhary V., Singh B. P., Mathur R. B.and Dhawan S. K., Mater. Chem. Phys., 113, 919-926, (2009).

9. Chung D. D. L., J. Mater. Eng. Perform., 9, 350-354, (2000).

10. Motojima S., Noda Y., Hoshiya S. and Hishikawa,Y., J. Appl. Phys., 94, 2325-2330, (2003).

11. Yan D. X., Ren P. G., Pang H., Fu Q., Yang M. B.and Li Z. M., J. Mater. Chem., 22, 18772-18774,(2012).

12. Mishra M., Singh A. P., Singh B. P., Singh V. N.and Dhawan S. K., J. Mater. Chem. A., 2, 13159-13168, (2014).

13. Hernandez Y., Nicolosi V., Lotya M., Blighe F. M.,Sun Z., McGovern I. T., Holland B., Byrne M.,Gun'Ko Y. K., Boland J. J., Peter N., Duesberg G.,Krishnamurthy S., Goodhue R., Hutchison J.,Scardaci V., Ferrari A. C. and Coleman J. N., NatNano., 3, 563-568, (2008).

14. Robinson J. T., Zalalutdinov M., Baldwin J. W.,Snow E. S., Wei Z., Sheehan P. and Houston B. H.,Nano Lett., 8, 3441- 3445, (2008).

15. Song W. L., Cao M. S., Lu M. M., Bi S., Wang C.Y., Liu J. and Fan, L. Z., Carbon, 66, 67-76, (2014).

16. Al-Saleh M. H. and Sundararaj U., Carbon, 47,1738-1746, (2008).

17. Zhang H. B., Zheng W. G., Yan Q., Jiang Z. G. andYu Z. Z., Carbon, 50, 5117-5125, (2012).

18. Chung D. D. L., Carbon, 39, 279-285, (2001).19. Hsiao S. T., Ma C. C. M., Liao W. H., Wang Y. S.,

Li S. M., Huang Y. C. and Liang W. F., ACS Appl.Mater. Interfaces., 6, 10667-10678, (2014).

20. Song W. L., Fan L. Z., Cao M. S., Lu M. M.,Wang C. Y., Wang J., Chen T. T., Li Y., Hou Z. L.,Liu J. and Sun Y. P. J. Mater. Chem. C., 2, 5057-5064, (2014).

❑ ❑ ❑


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

The Textile Association (India)

TAI - Madhya Pradesh Unit

Successfully organized National Textile Summit2019 by TAI M.P. Unit

TAI M.P. Unit has been establish in the year of 1944.TAI MP Unit celebrated Platinum Jubilee of its estab-lishment and also organised National Textile Summit2019 on 2nd March 2019. The program once againunite the textile technologist, industrialist and academicon one platform. The program made huge success withthe participation of around 200 delegates from all overthe Nation.

The program stared with the health management pro-gram given by Mr. Arun Rishi on "Stress Manage-ment" which is need of an hour.

Inaugural session witness presence of the industryleader and government officials. Mr. S. Pal, Director(Bhopal Operation), Vardhamn Group was the ChiefGuest of the occasion along with Mr. D. K. MittalPresident, Maral Overseas Ltd., Mr. A. K. Srivastava,Cotton Confederation of India, Mr. Pranav Parashar,Regional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore and Mr.Awadhesh Sharma, Hon. Joint General Secretary, TAI.

At the start dignitaries on dais lighten the lamp andgave obituary to the Late Mr. R. L.Toshniwal, ExCMDof Banswara Syntexand martyrs of CRPF sol-diers in Pulwama attack. Mr. Awadhesh Kumar Sharmagiven the keynote speech and benefits of the platformand associations. Mr. CS Sunil Jain gave his excellentspeech on GST and its implementation in industry. Healso insisting the reforms required in GST.Mr. Thakurof Indian ITME Society present about its prospect in-ternational show ITME Africa 2020, first of its kind atfootfall of any Indian venture at global level in textilemanufacturing sector. Mr. Baddrudin Khan, Manager,Multi Commodity Exchange of India presented pros-pect and role of MCX in the procurement of the cot-ton. Mr. Manoj Kumar, K.G., Chief General Manager,NTC, Mumbai presented an excellent presentation onthe role of energy and its audit in the various area ofspinning mills. Mr. R.N. Yadav, Mr. A.K. Srivastava,Mr. Pranav Parashar, Dr. Mahavir Jain and Mr. V.K.Chaudhary also enlighten the audience with their wordof wisdom. Mr. S. Pal insisted in his speech that needof an hour is to understand the role of human resourcemanagement in successful operations of the textilesectors, which is often neglected. He also advocatedthe change in government policy as per need of indus-try and demand of the time.

In this occasion, Textile Excellence Award was hon-ored by TAI MP Unit to Mr. S. Pal, Mr. Manoj Kumar,Mr. K.G., Mr. Sandeep Sharma and Mr. D. K. Mittal.CS Sunil Jain, CA Ajit Jain, Mr. R. N. Yadav, Mr.Sushil Moghe, Ms. Pritibala Warate, Mr. S. C. Bansal,Mr. Manohar Lal and Mr. T. K. Sinha for their servicecontribution to TAI MP Unit.

In this occasion 15 new members have taken themembership of TAI and greeted on dais. At last voteof thanks was proposed by Mr. Ashok Veda. Del-egates enjoyed the buffet. The second part of thedelegates enjoyed old musical melody presented by OmSai Orchestras with his 25 members. Dignitaries onthis occasion enjoyed the dinner at Indore Tennis Club.

UNIT ACTIVITY


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

The Department of Textile and Fashion Technology,College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan conductedone day National Conference on the 15th of March,2019. This conference was overwhelming as it markedthe Ruby Jubilee of the Department.

Welcome of Chief Guest Ms. Noemia D'Souza FounderHead of the Department and Former Principal,

College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

Hosts, Guests and Dignitaries at the Seminar

This occasion was graced by the presence of theFounder Head of the Department and Former Princi-pal, Ms. Noemia D'Souza as Chief Guest. The eventstarted with the auspicious ceremony of lighting of thelamp and a prayer dance by alumnus Ms. Gayatri Bhat,a renowned Kathak dancer. The guests and studentswere addressed with a welcome speech by the Prin-cipal Dr. Geeta Ibrahim. The President of NirmalaNiketan Institute, Dr. Magy Allessu then conveyed herPresidential Address. This was followed by HOD Dr.Ela Dedhia introducing the topic of the conference"Recent Developments in Sustainable Textiles, Cloth-ing and Coloration" and also introducing the Chief Guest,

Report of National Conference on"Recent Developments in Sustainable Textiles,

Clothing and Coloration

Ms. Noemia D'Souza. The theme for this year 'Trend-Sustain' was well explained and a detailed journey ofthe department and how it grew and moulded alongtime was beautifully presented by her. Ms. Noemia'swords of knowledge and wisdom were successful indrawing wandering minds towards the path of determi-nation. A true Guru, she is one of those who has builtan empire of love and knowledge and is yet an epitomeof humility and simplicity. Few of the alumni includingthe faculty of the department shared their treasuredexperiences with Ms. D'Souza.

Felicitation of Keynote speaker Mr. Ullhas Nimkar,Managing Director, Nimkar Tek Technical Services.

The technical session began with the Keynote speakerMr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTekTechnical Services. Through a well prepared PowerPoint presentation, Mr. Nimkar explained the history oftextiles and clothing, discovery of oil, birth of syntheticdye chemistry and threw light on the furious pace withwhich humans consume resources and generate waste.He also gave a brief about the explosion of chemicalproduction, effects of population explosion, the globalimpact of globalization and its impact on human healthand environment.

The technical session began with the Keynote speakerMr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTekTechnical Services. Through a well prepared PowerPoint presentation, Mr. Nimkar explained the history oftextiles and clothing, discovery of oil, birth of syntheticdye chemistry and threw light on the furious pace withwhich humans consume resources and generate waste.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

He also gave a brief about the explosion of chemicalproduction, effects of population explosion, the globalimpact of globalization and its impact on human healthand environment. He emphasized on the relevance ofsustainable development, tools to measuring sustainability,the importance of Ecologic Footprint, and garmentrecycling initiatives taken up by different internationalbrands like H&M, NIKE and M&S.

The session on "Inclusive Sustainability" included tworesource persons. Mr. Nitin Shah, Hon. Secretary ofThe Society for the Vocational Rehabilitation of theRetarded, Tardeo. He spoke about his motive of start-ing the NGO and how the long and tedious process ofpainstakingly teaching skills to the differently-abled hasenabled them to be productive and independent. Theother speaker in this session was Ms. Amisha ParekhFounder, SEVA NGO. She spoke about her ongoingjourney of working on the development and social up-gradation of the tribal people from Sanjay GandhiNational Park, Borivali. The products made by thesetribals using natural yarns and fabrics, she informedhave become a sensation amongst common people aswell as industries and are in the process of gaininginternational recognition. Her infectious enthusiasm andnever say die attitude was very inspiring and evidenceenough to understand the reason for her success. Boththe speakers of this session appreciated the contribu-tion made by the students of the Department of Textileand Fashion Technology, College of Home Science forthe work done in these NGOs and expressed that theywish to continue the collaboration.

Guests and Dignitaries with Department Facultyat the Seminar

The session on "Nature-Sustainable Palette" had Ms.Bhavini Parikh as one of the resource persons. Awoman with a vision she has founded 'Bunko Junko'an entire brand of women's clothing and accessoriesthat are made from pre-consumer waste fabrics. MsParikh explained her journey from a being a timid HomeScience graduate to a successful entrepreneur. Her

message of never letting others underestimate onescapabilities and dictate ones choices was really inspir-ing. She also showed a well made video about hercompany, Bunko Junko. The other speaker in this ses-sion was Mr. Sarfaraz Khatri, CEO Pracheen. A thirdgeneration artisan and a self motivated individual whois passionate about exploring, creating and implement-ing new ideas explained his journey of keeping alivethe tradition of block printing with natural dyes. Hisassociation with designers like Rohit Bal, PriyadarshaniRao, and Donna Karan, New York, was proof of hissuccess and the increasing popularity of traditionalIndian textiles all over the world.

The technical session on "Sustainable Marketing" hadMs. Monal Zaveri, Marketing Manager, Brand Devel-oper and Product Coordinator, Milaaya Embroideriesas one of the speakers. A very dynamic personality,Ms. Zaveri spoke about sustainable marketing andexplained the marketing strategies adapted by variousinternational brands through a very informativePowerPoint presentation. She also drew attention tothe fact that the craze for ever-changing fashion madeit one of most polluting industries. Speaker, Mr. ViralDedhia, Director Easytech Innovations and a youngbudding entrepreneur, who has various startups to hiscredit, spoke about Smart Textiles, innovations such as'The Smart Shirt' and gave an interesting talk on howsmart technology works.

Dr. Vijay Habbu, Senior Vice President PETCHEM,Reliance Industries, the Guest of Honour at the Vale-dictory function explained in detail, the sustainablepolymeric science and synthetic fibres.

Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, Managing Director, NimkarTekTechnical Services delivering keynote address

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Valedictory Address by Dr. Vijay Habbu

This was followed by a poster/model presentation. Thestudents of the M.Sc. II of College of Home Science,presented models based on the 17 Sustainable Devel-opment Goals of The United Nations and delegatesfrom other colleges presented posters on other topicsbased on sustainability. They were judged by a panelof experienced judges from the field of academics aswell as industry, such as Ms. Noemia D'Souza, FounderHead of the Department of Textile and Clothing andFormer Principal, College of Home Science, NirmalaNiketan, Dr. Bilkis Tavawala Former Head Depart-ment of Post Graduate Studies and Research, SNDTWomen's University and Mr. Arvind, DirectorEnlearning.

The winners of the competition were:First prize: Ms. Dolly Gala- Alumnus College of HomeScience, Nirmala NiketanSecond prize: Ms. Sakina Merchant- MSc II, Collegeof Home Science, Nirmala NiketanThird prize: Ms. Jinal Sangani: Ph.D Scholar, Collegeof Home Science, Nirmala NiketanConsolation prize: Ms. Swamini Binsale- MSc II, Col-lege of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

First prize:Ms. Dolly Gala - Alumnus

Second prize:Ms. Sakina Merchant- MSc II,

Third prize: Ms. Jinal Sangani: Ph.D ScholarConsolation prize: Ms. Swamini Binsale- MSc II

In continuation with the theme "Trend Sustain", amarket was organized alongside the conference. Ap-propriately named "Jamboree Sustainable Haat", it hadstalls put up by various NGOs, and artisans. Patron-ized by one and all, it was a pleasure to see the ben-eficiaries of the NGOs proudly exhibit, market and selltheir products.

In addition to this, Workshops and Intercollegiate com-petitions were also held in the month of January 2019in line with the theme "Trend Sustain".

NEWS

Texttreasure

Technology means the systematic application ofscientific or other organized knowledge to prac-tical tasks.

- J. K. Galbraith


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NEWS

KARL MAYER is taking over the ISO film cuttingand stretching unit from the bs Group

R to L: Bernd Stoll, the CEO of the bs Group, signingthe contract for the takeover of the ISO unit,

Christopher Stoll from the Sales Division of the bsGroup and Manfred Reinhold,

a member of Management at KARL MAYER

KARL MAYER has become a producer of completesystems for the production of packaging sacks andshading nets, and the company has extended its pro-duction repertoire in order to do this. In future, KARLMAYER will produce the ISO unit for cutting andstretching and continue to manufacture warp knittingmachines for processing foil tapes. The FTL 1, FTL 2and FTL 3 models are all part of the ISO film cuttingand stretching unit. This unit was previously suppliedby the bs Group. With the signing of a contract on26.04.2019, the machine rights, the spare parts busi-ness, and engineering expertise have all been trans-ferred to KARL MAYER. The transfer of knowledgehas been carried out on the basis of a tried-and-testedprocess.

By taking over the machines, KARL MAYER canreact even more flexibly to the needs of its clients."We now have a proven product, which is alreadyestablished on the market, in our repertoire, and this

Complete systems made by KARL MAYER for theefficient processing of tape yarns

gives us the scope that we need for making furtherdevelopments. 'Everything from a single source andmade by KARL MAYER'. We can now carry on withoptimising our raschel machines by introducing innova-tive material feed systems," says Herbert Lohr, theHead of KARL MAYER's Warp Knitting BusinessUnit.Best of technology and a non-stop processThe ISO unit is located at the beginning of the pro-cessing chain for producing packaging and shading nets.The unit uses slitting bars to cut the tapes from aprimary film. These are then stretch in a heating zoneto produce monoaxial, flat tape yarns, which are fed toa raschel machine - reliably and consumption-depen-dent. The thickness, strength and delivery speed are allconsistent and accurate.

The in-line system integration of the two productionsystems enables a delivery rate of up to 85 m/min tobe reached. In this case, the tape yarns may have aminimum thickness of just 0.016 mm approximatelyand a width of 0.5 to 0.7 mm. The ISO system is alsoflexible, thanks to its modular design. Depending on thewidth, number of guide bars and gauge of the subse-quent machine, as well as the desired tape width as itenters the machine, a number of ISO slitting and draw-ing modules can be combined. The unit is also easy tooperate and has a sturdy design and long service life.This performance profile enables the subsequent raschelmachine to operate to its maximum potential.

Press releaseKARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 ObertshausenEnquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel. 06104/402-274Fax 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: [email protected]

Align your company with the growing

authority in Textiles


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NEWS

Discovering economics of cotton to prevent pov-erty and promote prosperity

Mr. Manish Daga of Cotton Guru organised a CottonConclave 2019 initiative with Indian Merchants Cham-ber (IMC - ERTF) on 26-04-2019 at WalchandHirachandHall, IMC Building, Churchgate, Mumbai.

Following were the Partners:Mission Partner: Confederation of Indian Textile In-dustries (CITI),Farmer Partner: Federation of Seed Industries of India(FSII)Forex Partner: Edelweiss Securities Ltd.

The Conclave aims to find our sustainable solutions forthe following major burning issues.1. How can cotton economics help to overcome the

current farm distress and related unemploymentproblem in India?

2. How to make cotton textiles industry, the darlingof investors?

This Cotton Conclave is the world's one and only con-ference with1. Presence of◆ 32 progressive farmers from across the country◆ 124 thought leaders representing the entire cotton

textile value chain including ginners, spinners,garmentors, brands, research scientists, seed cos.,agri input cos., etc.

◆ 4 Heads of various Textile Associations◆ 11 key Government officials and policy makers◆ 7 prime investors of textile equities◆ 5 leading textile media representatives

2. Presentation of "COTTONGURU®PradarshanKhet" model projects whereCOTTONGURU® teamhas worked for 6 monthswith progressive farmers in their farms to en-hance their yields and quality helping them tomarket their produce such that they earn profit incotton farming.

3. Special award for Shri Ashish Hande, a youngprogressive farmer from Vidarbha, for his excel-lent work in creating "COTTONGURUPradarshanKhet" and being an inspiration andtrainer for many of famers in that area.

4. Passionate appeal by Shri Pashabhai Patel (Chair-man, Agriculture Price Commission, Maharashtra)that he guarantees quality cotton supply fromminimum 50 villages of Maharashtra if the cottontextile industry is ready to buy cotton at attractiveprices.

5. Immediate response by Shri BhupendrasinghRajpal(Pappuseth) of M/s Manjeet Cotton, the biggestcotton ginner of India, that he will buy all the seedcotton (kapas) at a premium of Rs. 400 per quin-tal (Rs. 200 for contamination controlled cottonand Rs. 200 if the cotton tests 31mm).

6. Detailed cotton crop report by Shri AtulGanatra(Present, CAI).

7. Most significant declaration by Ms. Ali Rani(CMD, CCI) that CCI is planning a platform ofatleast 25 profit making public sector enterprisesto undertake mechanisation of harvesting of cot-ton.

8. Extraordinary presentation by Federation of SeedIndustries of India (FSII) on "How to increasethe cotton yield in India", the most important fac-

Highlights of Cotton Conclave 2019


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NEWS

tor to help Double the farmers' income.

9. Introduction of◆ India's most innovative cotton textile hub-

Hinganghat, Maharashtra comprising of;a) APMC: The biggest and most farmer sup

portive in Maharashtra.b) GimatexIndustries (P) Ltd: Most integrated

textile unit.c) Pee Vee Textiles (P) Ltd: Most innovative

spinning unit using robotics.d) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd: Best ginning

factory making contamination controlledcotton and generating handsome premium.

◆ Latest farm technologies: NaPanta mobile Appby young and dynamic V.Naveenkumar ofHyderabad. The App is being used by over1.25 lakh farmers in A.P. and Telangana. TheApp was immediately downloaded in themobile phone of all attending farmers for immediate benefits.

10. Launch of special edition of COTTON CON-CLAVE® 2019 Annual Magazine containing WhitePaper No. 1.0 released during Cotton Conclave2018, which has proved to be a roadmap for thecottontextile industry throughout the year. Themagazine also consists of some important andrelevantarticles of COTTONGURU® Shri ManishDaga written for various International and Do-mestic textile magazines.

11. Declaration of formation of COTTON FORUM,a core group for integrating the developmentsarising out of COTTON CONCLAVE® and ex-ecuting the White Paper No. 1.0 & 2.0. Thecurrent members of COTTON FORUM are;

a) Shri SureshbhaiKotak (Chaiman, Kotak Group)b) Shri G.Chandrasekhar (IMC-ERTF)c) Shri AtulbhaiGanatra (President, CAI)d) Shri Sanjay Jain (President, CITI)e) Shri Arvind Sinha (Ex-President, TAI)f) Shri Manish Daga (COTTONGURU®)12. Drafting, printing and submission of White Paper

No. 2.0 comprising of sustainable solutions to the3 burning issues facing the cotton textile industry, and

India:a) How do we encash the cotton economy to

prevent poverty and promote prosperity inIndia?

b) How do we make cotton/textile industry thedarling of investors?

c) How do we increase the cotton yields inIndia?

The dynamic thought leaders who had participated inCOTTON CONCLAVE® 2018 shared their progressreports of last year based on the take away from theConclave and WhitePaper. Some of them are:a) Gimatex Industries (P) Ltd, Maharashtra started

a special Biotech plant for value addition of cot-ton by-products.

b) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd, Maharashtra gener-ated premium for every bale manufactured keep-ing in mind the Red Light shown in Conclave that"Contamination is discounted".

c) Anilkumar& Co, Karnataka organised a jointprogramme with state seed association to helpfarmers get best quality seeds.

d) AmrutraoDeshmukh, award winner farmer forhighest yield in Maharashtra, travelled withCOTTONGURU across 600 villages, training20000 farmers for increasing yield.

All in all, COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 gave a per-fect platform to India's most progressive cotton farm-ers, cotton textile supply chain stake holders, Govern-ment officials and textile investors to openly share theirviews and integrate their efforts on solutions ratherthan problems.

The solutions, formatted in White Paper No. 2.0, ifexecuted well, will ensure sustainable prosperity forthe entire cotton value chain and contribute to createa conducive atmosphere of high employment, entrepre-neurship and investment thereby helping enhance India'sGDP.

Texttreasure

To know the history of science is to recognizethe mortality of any claim to universal truth

- Evelyn Fox Keller


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NEWS

KARL MAYER will be presenting state-of-the arttechnology and best-of-textile solutions for warp knit-ting, warp preparation and technical textiles at ITMA,20.-26.6.2019 in Barcelona

KARL MAYER will take its visitors on a voyage ofdiscovery through the textile world of tomorrow atITMA, which is to be held from 20 to 26 June 2019.The meeting-point for all this will be at stand 8.0/B107on the exhibition site in Barcelona. Here, the visitorscan expect a display of highly efficient, complete so-lutions for production, which will give them the edgeover their competitors in the long term. The show in-cludes flexible, trendsetting machines with excellent cost:benefit ratios for use in warp knitting, innovations inwarp sampling and direct warping for the warp prepa-

Innovations from the textile world for modern life

ration sector, a completely new machine for compositematerials, and new products of the software trendsetterof the industry, KM.ON. The subject of "Future inTextiles" will also showcase well-thought-out textilesolutions for modern living and highlight the most im-portant trends of our times - digitisation andsustainability.

Innovative warp preparation technology for processinghigh-quality yarns and a display of exciting fabrics willround off KARL MAYER's presentation at ITMA.

This innovative show is intended to inspire the sector."With the innovations that we intend to show at ITMA,we are forging a link from machine building, throughapplications, textiles and yarns, to the world ofdigitisation. With our holistic approach, we meet thedemands of the upheavals of our time. The nature ofproduction, as well as the use of resources and newtechnology, and the development of new fabrics andtextile materials are all changing radically. These far-reaching changes are throwing up many questions. Withthe offers of our company, we want to provide ourcustomers with answers and make them confident thattheir future will be a successful one," says Arno Gärtner,KARL MAYER's CEO.


KARL MAYER showcasing the State of Art Technol-ogy and Best of Textile Solutions for Warp Knitting,Warp Preparation and Technical Textiles at ITMA, 20.- 26. 06. 2019, Stand 8.0/B107 in Barcelona.

KARL MAYER can be found on Stand 8.0/B107 atthe ITMA 2019 trade fair. This innovative textile ma-chinery manufacturer will present here technical pio-

Karl Mayer showcasing State of Art Technology and Best ofTextile Solutions in ITMA 2019

neering solutions for an efficient, flexible production inthe fields of Warp Knitting, Warp Preparation andTechnical Textiles, as well as new digital products ofthe sector's software trendsetter, KM.ON. Moreover,under the motto "Future of Textiles" the company willpresent clever textile solutions for new, exciting appli-cations and markets as well as contributions to thetopic of sustainability. Progressive warp preparation


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

NEWS

technology for processing high-quality yarns and anexperience world with fabrics full of creative ideas willround off KARL MAYER's presence at ITMA.

1. Warp-knitting machines with improved price-performance ratio and new textile productsIn the field of raschel machines a new RSJ 4/1 EL willbe premiered at ITMA. Offering 50 % more workingwidth at the same speed compared to its predecessor,this machine is highly productive and uniquely flexible.Thanks to the EL technology, it is possible to ensure arapid pattern change and to produce patterns with longrepeats. For the development of new articles, the inno-vative model takes full advantage of the integrationinto the KM.ON eco system. This machine is the firstrepresentative which in the product categoryk.innovation, provides optimum support for the virtualtextile development commonly used today.

Composite Machine

OJ91B

Under the LACE.EXPRESS trademark, KARLMAYER launched the OJ series in 2016, perfectlytailored to the special needs of the apparel market. AtITMA 2019, this manufacturer will now present a self-contained, complete 134" machine platform for theintimate sector. The company will offer a B- (Back)version and a F-Jacquard (Front) version for each ofthe representatives. The special highlight of the sys-tem: the related models are compatible to one another.Every machine can be upgraded to the technical levelof high-bar platform neighbours. Low-bar articles can

be produced on high-bar machines without any adjust-ments. In this way, the customer benefits from highestflexibility. In Barcelona an OJ 91/1 B will be on show.

Besides, in its "Future of Textiles" Application Show,KARL MAYER will be presenting extraordinary prod-uct developments, that require little effort during mak-ing-up but offer a lot of chic and function: well thought-out solutions for highly comfortable bras with few seams,a sporty body made from novel power lace with shap-ing and supporting effects as well as a swimsuit in lacelook.

As far as the double raschel technology is concerned,KARL MAYER will show how a new RDPJ 6/2 ELmachine can be used to open up a previously unknownproduct world. The outstanding warp-knits are mar-keted under 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS. They attractattention by pronounced, three-dimensional and mani-fold patternings on the outer sides, but they can alsoshow open-work patterns, that are a clear advantageover competitive products of circular knitting. Eye-catching 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS articles can be seenin the "Future of Textiles" area. A live machine dem-onstration will be organized to present the RDPJ 6/2EL, 138?, in a gauge of E 24.

As innovation in the field of tricot machines, KARLMAYER will be displaying the first three-bar HKSmodel with electronic guide bar control.

The new HKS 3-M-ON offers the same performancein terms of speed and design variety as the previousversion, but thanks to an innovative gear solution it isfaster and simpler during pattern change. Instead ofpattern disks, it is only necessary to exchange data.The required information can simply be downloaded tothe machine from a secured cloud. In Barcelona, aHKS 3-M-ON, 180?, in E 28, will demonstrate its flex-ibility during a performance show while working aneye-catching demonstration pattern, showing theinterlinking of different lappings.

2. Innovations for the entire warp preparationsectorKARL MAYER will showcase its new MULTI-MATIC® 32 for producing sample and short produc-tion warps. This new machine impresses with its ex-cellent price-performance ratio. and offers all the ad-vantages of the KAMCOS® 2 platform. Thanks to theintegrated OPC UA interface in particular, the ma-chine can be digitally networked and the operating datacan be collected in real time.


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

NEWS

Regarding the direct beamers, KARL MAYER hasconsistently pursued its twin product line strategy. Thenew ISODIRECT was successfully launched at ITMAASIA 2018 as a standard model, and the PRODIRECTwill be presented to the public as a version for thepremium market at the next ITMA in Barcelona. Thelatest electronic systems, the KAMCOS® 2 platform,and sophisticated technical solutions make this newmachine the high-end model that achieves optimumlevels in terms of quality and productivity.

Moreover, KARL MAYER will be showing the newstop motion MULTIGUARD as prototype. Positionedat the exit to the creel, this newcomer continuouslydetermines the yarn tension values of all the yarns,thus, also controlling any yarn breakages and tensionpeaks.

Guests will be able to experience the latest generationof sectional warping machines via a live link at KARLMAYER's German site in Hausen. The PROWARP®will be demonstrating its new features and capabilities.The latest innovations include a modern module for thecamera-assisted recording of production data, which isimportant for the high reproducibility of beam build-up.The PROACTIVE Warping is also new. This newbrand is a self-learning quality control system, whichrecords the quality-relevant beam parameters by meansof sensors and compares them with the target values.If any deviations occur, the production data are optimisedaccordingly when processing repeat orders. A highbeam quality can be achieved, irrespective of the op-eratives.

With models and presentations, KARL MAYER willbe showing innovative technical solutions for guaran-teeing improved efficiency and sustainability in the denimproduction in its "Future of Textiles" sector. One mainfocus in this context is the topic of SUSTAINABLEDENIM. KARL MAYER presents a newly developedtechnology for an indigo dyeing process in nitrogenatmosphere, which ensures an optimum setting of thedye in terms of solidity and brilliant tone, at the sametime requiring less dye bath volume, chemicals andwater. The dyeing process ensures highest efficiency.

Also on show will be the new LINK-MATIC® systemfor the automatic knotting of the batches on thePRODYE-S indigo machine and the PROSIZE sizingmachine. By means of this innovation it is possible toreduce retooling times to just a few minutes. The al-most continuous production increases machine effi-ciency, at the same time reducing waste yarn and

personnel expenditure. The perfect arrangement of thewarp after retooling reduces the share of second-gradefabric.

3. Premiere of a composite machine and innova-tive technical applicationsKARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is con-tinuing to develop into a systems supplier for non-crimped fabrics (NCFs) and is launching a new linefor producing thermoplastic unidirectional tapes (UDtapes). The company is already known for its multi-axial warp knitting machines and its fibre spreadingunit. This newcomer combines a completely revisedspreading module with well-thought-out impregnationtechnology in a continuous, efficient processing se-quence. The seamless interface guarantees a consis-tently high spreading quality.

With their high quality and precise alignment of thecontinuous fibres, the tapes are ideal for use in highlystressed, fibre-reinforced, lightweight structures. Thethermoplastic matrix also allows for effective process-ing, enabling mass production to be carried out. Thenew line, with its high production speed and ability toproduce tapes in a broad range of widths, is also suit-able for mass production. Not only the new machinewill be presented at ITMA, but also one of the prod-ucts produced on it, together with the sequences forproducing a structural component for the automobilesector.

In the "Future of Textiles" area, the visitors will havethe opportunity to see very promising applications forthe textiles manufactured on the machines made byKARL MAYER Technische Textilien. The focus hereis on the issue of concrete components reinforced withcarbon or glass fibre NCFs rather than steel. By usingtextile concrete, it is possible to save up to 70% of theconcrete and, as a result, CO2 emissions, energy andcomponent weight can all be reduced. Other promisingapplications of technical warp-knitted textiles in theconstruction sector include cost-effective, flexible, stableroofing materials and bitumen roofing felts, specialplaster grids that increase the cracking resistance inthe plaster, and self-adhesive tapes for repairing anycracks and holes that do occur.

Besides, an innovative solution for personal protectionequipment will also be showcased: a new bulletproofvest made from an aramid NCF that is both effectiveand comfortable to wear. The functional textile wasproduced on a multiaxial warp-knitting machine, typeCOP MAX 5 with online spreading process.


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

PRODIRECT

RDPJ 6 2 EL

4. Expanding the portfolio of solutions of the digi-tal brand KM.ONAt ITMA ASIA 2018, KARL MAYER launched itsown digital brand, KM.ON, the associated digital prod-uct portfolio with eight categories, and the first solu-tions. Other offers will follow just in time for the nextITMA in Barcelona.

k.production is also launching its first product. Thisnew digital tool combines a PDA system with a ticketsystem to enable any disruptions in production to bemanaged efficiently. Main advantages: Any problemscan be dealt with quickly, and the root cause can betackled rapidly by displaying the relevant sequence.

k.management enables the current production processto be viewed remotely and now includes a greaterrange of parameters. The key performance indicator,warp beam running time, is a new feature. It providesinformation quickly and clearly on imminent beamchanges, and thus contributes to reducing downtimesand maintenance times.

The new features in the k.maintenance system focuson the topic of planned maintenance. With specifiedmaintenance plans and active reminders of pendingjobs, this tool should help to minimise the risk of ma-chine breakdowns.

The k.innovation covers the first software develop-

ments, which will enable customers to shorten theirtime-to-market considerably by adapting their workflowsand processes. For example, the software is not in-stalled in situ but is used via a browser. This enablesseveral users to cooperate.

The key for accessing all the KM.ON solutions, k.ey,has also been upgraded. It also enables KARLMAYER's older machines, equipped with KAMCOS®1, to be integrated as well as machines belonging to theWarp Preparation Business Unit.

5. Ecological solutions from the machine to thetextileKARL MAYER keeps the focus on the topic ofsustainability. In the course of the generation changeof the high-performance warp-knitting machines, al-most all models have been equipped with LEO®. TheLow Energy Option enables an average energy savingof 10% compared to conventional counterparts, thus,helping to reduce the consumption of resources.

Moreover, it is possible to process resource-saving yarnson KARL MAYER machines. In Barcelona, a HKS 3-M EN will work a textile completely from a recycledfilament yarn on the basis of bottle flakes, produced byTrevira. The article carries the new SINFINECO la-bel, which is granted by the fibre manufacturer fortextiles made from his sustainable products.

A selection of sustainable warp-knits and applicationconcepts is offered by KARL MAYER's "Future ofTextiles" section under CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS.These include warp-knitted articles as ecologicallybeneficial alternative to woven fabrics for modernstreetwear and TERRY.ECO terry textiles.TERRY.ECO represents an efficient technological so-lution for more sustainability, for energy- and resource-saving systems during terry fabric production.

The topic of SUSTAINABLE DENIM is especiallyaddressed to the manufacturers belonging to the denimsector.

For more information, please contact:Press Release:KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 ObertshausenEnquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel. 06104/402-274Fax 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: [email protected]

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Technical textile producers report practical gainswith USTER®EVS fabric inspection systems

Technical textiles is the most quality-sensitive sector ofthe entire industry, and many products for specializedand performance end-uses are at the highest level ofthis requirement. For ultimate control and security ofquality, fabric manufacturers need a top technologysolution which takes the guesswork out of producingthe quality their customers need. That's where theUSTER® EVS automated fabric inspection systemsoffer enormous benefits, proven in numerous installa-tions worldwide - and presented at upcoming Techtextil.

Automated visual fabric inspection is an essential assetin optimizing quality for a wide range of technical tex-tiles andperformance apparel. Applications in architec-ture, automotive, construction, hazard protection, medi-cine, aviation and aerospace have some of the moststringent quality criteria.But fabrics for furnishings,sports and functional clothing must also meet the per-fect standards that major brandsneed to uphold theirreputation and satisfy customer expectations.

All fabric producers aim to deliver the quality theircustomers specify, while also minimizing scrap andseconds to protect their own efficiency andprofitability.The different fabric production and finish-ing processescontainplenty of opportunities for fabricfaults to arise. USTER's automated fabricinspectionsystem bring quality under control, regardlessof the complexities of the manufacturing stages. Fal-lible human judgmentand varying levels of operativeability and experience are no longer critical to the pro-duction of consistent, reliable quality. Accurate auto-matic quality control becomes an integral part of manu-facturing.

Early-stage control with USTER®EVS Q-BAReliminates the need for manual inspection after

Automatic control and mill-proven benefitsfor quality and profit

production.USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION ensuresreliable monitoring, using automated control during in-termediate and final inspection. The system's ability tocapture any visible faults - with a proven and consis-tently high rate of defect detection - and its optimizedfabric grading protect the producer from the risk ofdamaging claims.

Dyed fabrics present the particular extra challenge ofcolor uniformity. USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEhasthe solution, monitoringin-line shade variation in virtu-ally any process where color is critical, without theneed to cut fabric swatches for laboratory tests.

Optimizing profitAutomatic fabric inspection is the way to achieveoptimum quality, to reduce below-par and scrap fabricsand to maximize fabric yield.The cut optimization soft-ware module of USTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION andUSTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEoptimizes fabric yieldper class, according to the settings. The system worksby marking any defects in the fabric during inspection.The position of each defect is synchronized with Op-timized Cut Control (OCC), which stops the cuttingtable at precisely the right place, guaranteeing error-free cutting. OCC can also identify and highlight de-fects which require operator action, making the pro-cess more efficient.

Only one operator is needed to oversee the entireproduction, reviewing defects and rejecting or accept-ing them. The system is self-learning, reducing unnec-essary alarms over time. The operator sends the fabricroll, with its defect report, to the cutting station, wherefaults can be marked, mended or removed as required.This saves time, as the operator has only to manageroll processing, rather than actually inspecting the fab-ric.

Proven resultsUSTER®EVS automatic fabric inspection technologyis founded on more than 25 years of pioneering devel-opment in the field. Today, more than 1,000 installa-tions in wide-ranging textile segments worldwide ac-knowledge it as the key to cost savings and enhancedmarket competitiveness.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

USTER®EVScustomers currently inspect over 60mil-lion meters of fabric per day.Manycompanieswhichinstalled EVS lines in the mid-Ninetieshave recentlyupgraded their automatic fabric inspection systems withUSTER®EVS FABRIQ VISIONand USTER®EVSFABRIQ SHADE.

Some users have provided valuable feedback on majorbenefits of the systems.A German fabric finisherreportsthat in the first six months after installation ofUSTER®EVS FABRIQ VISION,it was able to pro-duce 1.2 million meters of fabricwithout a single cus-tomer claim.Another firm, a European leader in pro-tective clothing,purchased two systems ofUSTER®EVSFABRIQ VISION and USTER®EVS FABRIQSHADEin 2017.As well as reducing claims, thecompanyalsomanaged to decrease labor costs by saving 14operators.

An Italian customer installed USTER®EVS FABRIQVISION and USTER®EVS FABRIQ SHADEalongside automatic cutting and packaging machines,replacing manual inspection. Within three years, off-quality and scrapdecreased by more than 3%.

For more details and to discuss individual requirements,interested parties are recommended to meet the ex-perts at Techtextil. Fabric producersand finishers arewelcome to present booth staff with any challengesregarding automatic fabric inspection at the forthcom-ing event, in Frankfurt, Germany, from May 14 to 17.The USTER®EVS Q-BAR, as well as other membersof the USTER®EVS fabric inspection family, will bepresented. Visit USTER at booth D05 in Hall 3.0, to-gether with German agent Elmatex.

Media contact:Edith AepliOn behalf of USTER Marketing ServiceUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect : +41 43 366 38 80Mobile : +41 79 916 02 91Fax : +41 43 366 39 58E-mail : [email protected]

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is gettinginto the market for machine technology for producingthermoplastic UD tapes

KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is launch-ing a completely new line for efficiently producingthermoplastic UD tapes, a special type of fibre-rein-forced plastics (FRPs).

FRPs are important drivers in the lightweight construc-tion sector and are contributing to the concept ofsustainability in the building sector. UD tapes scorepoints here by offering maximum potential for produc-ing lightweight structures. They are made up of unidi-rectional, continuous reinforcing fibres, which means

Lightweight construction technology is gainingmomentum - thanks to a new production line

that they can absorb high levels of stress.

Using thermoplastic rather than thermosetting matrixsystems gives rise to further advantages. For example,thermoplastic UD tapes can be recycled but, above all,they can be processed more efficiently - an importantrequirement for mass production.

The mass production of semi-finished products formsthe focus of the new line for processing thermo plasticUD tapes. There is a need for reproducibility, qualityand efficiency at a reasonable cost - challenges thatthis company, with its many years of experience innon-crimped fabrics (NCFs) made from glass andcarbon fibres, has been tackling.

More specifically, KARL MAYER Technische Textilienhas extended its spreading technology to include suit-able heating and impregnating modules. The result is amachine system that is setting the trend. This newdevelopment delivers a continuous mode of operating,a high production speed, and large tape widths. It rep-resents KARL MAYER Technische Textilien's latest

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

step along the way to being a systems supplier for dryand impregnated NCFs.

The first line for producing thermoplastic UD tapeswill be ready to be presented in autumn of 2019 atKARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Chemnitz andwill be available for producing samples on behalf ofcustomers. The first public debut of the new line willbe at ITMA, which is to be held from 20 to 26 June2019 in Barcelona. The machine will also be part ofKARL MAYER Technische Textilien's presentation inthe forum of the next Techtextil fair in Frankfurt. Thedate of this event is 15 May 2019.

For more information, please contact:Press Release:KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 ObertshausenEnquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel. 06104/402-274Fax 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: [email protected]

KARL MAYER launches new raschel machine fornonwoven bonding at an in-house show in Obertshausento be held during the Techtextil in Frankfurt/Main, 14.- 17. 05. 2019

RACOP NW Freigestellt

KARL MAYER invites the sector to visit its Stand 3.0/E 18 at the next Techtextil in Frankfurt/Main for anexchange of expertise. On an exhibition area of 80 m²this manufacturer will be showing warp-knitted goodswith a performance that is opening up new ways forinteresting and novel business fields: articles with inte-grated electrical conductivity and shaping from thecompany's new TEXTILE MAKERSPACE, a highlyefficient textile solution for the protection of buildings,and a completely new generation of warp-knitted spacerfabrics.

Besides, at KARL MAYER's headquarters in nearbyObertshausen, the visitors to Techtextil will have theopportunity to attend an exhibition-accompanying in-

Machine premiere at Techtextil

house show with a machine premiere. The new raschelmachine for nonwoven bonding, RACOP 2-NW, willbe presented. This efficient nonwoven machine pro-cesses fibrous webs to stitch-bonded nonwovens, andscores points by technological advantages. Unlike theirchemically bonded counterparts, these nonwovens areelastic, voluminous and, thus, virtually textile. More-over, the stitch-bonding process requires considerablyless energy than thermal methods. In addition, theRACOP 2-NW impresses by an excellent price-per-formance ratio and highest flexibility. During KARLMAYER's in-house show, a RACOP 2-NW will pro-duce a fabric in a gauge of E 14 intended for theapplication field of heating textiles. The heating effectcan be tested on a demonstrator module.

The preparations for the in-house show are in full swing.KARL MAYER expects numerous visitors belongingto a specific trade audience. Entire delegations fromabroad have already registered. The event can bereached conveniently from Frankfurt/Main by bus trans-fer.


NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

"Clean Technology. Smart Factory."

Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMAin Barcelona on a jour-ney into the future ofmanmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June2019, the world market leader will show all itsguests its vision of a sustainable and automatedmanmade fiber produc-tion in a virtual 4D show-room at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "CleanTechnology. Smart Factory." is the motto of thefuture. And this is only a stone's throw away fromreality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon ispresenting four world premieres for efficient ma-chine and plant concepts in a new, innovativeindustrial design. Together with numerous otherinnovations, all this forms the new DNA of theOerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry aremanifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model

Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers isgrowing due to global market consolidation. Here it isimportant to position oneself correctly. Are you pro-ducing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the nichemarket and skimming off good margins with innovativeproducts and ingenious material properties, or are youlooking for business success through economies of scalein the volume market such as the constantly growingapparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for bothbusiness models.

And the most important thing: the market leader sup-plies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself

Oerlikon celebrates four world premieres atITMA Barcelona 2019

at the world premieres of the machine and systemconcepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor andthe revolutionary eAFKEvo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnelFinding good operators in the manmade fiber industryis becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerg-ingindustrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. Thesolution is obvious. What, for example, the automotiveindustry achieved years ago with the 3rd IndustrialRevolution is now also taking its course in the textileindustry. And at the same time it is even shifting up agear. In the next step, automation in combination withdigitization will lead to new, sustainable production.Oerlikon will be showing how au-tomation and digitiza-tion interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines andsystems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services andedge computing are just a few of the key words in thedigital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceabilityThe qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet thehighest demands and their production must be trace-able throughout the textile value chain. This no longeronly plays an important role in the automotive industry,where safety is of paramount importance. Otherbranches of industry that use fibers, yarns andnonwovens also want to know where the raw materi-als they produce for consumer articles come from.Legal regulations are demanding this more and morefrequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with itsDIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More thanhalf of the world's manmade fiber producers are con-vinced every day that the qualities produced onOerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oer-likon Non-woven equipment are right - and all visitors to ITMAcan do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable productionIn the future, the materials produced from manmadefibers must become part of a further improvedglobalrecycling economy. The recycling of polyester - withover 80% market share the most frequentlyusedmanmade fiber in the world - has not only been on theagenda since today. Oerlikon already hassolutions athand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to tex-tiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with thesubsidiary company BBEngineering presents theworldpremiere No. 4 - a recycling solution within a runningpolyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes realityThe Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demon-strates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises astheworld's leading trade fair for textile machinery andplant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles-

sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, thisis already reality.For further information:André WissenbergMarketing, Corporate Communications& Public AffairsTel. +49 2191 67 2331Fax +49 2191 67 70 [email protected]/manmade-fibers

The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) jointlywith Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF) & The South-ern India Mills' Association (SIMA) organized the FirstEdition of "National Investors' Conclave on TechnicalTextiles (NICTT 2019)" on 24th April, 2019 at TheResidency Towers, Coimbatore, India. The event hasbeen organized for the first time in Coimbatore to pro-mote, expand & diversify new Investments in Techni-cal Textile Industry by Entrepreneurs across the coun-try. This was the right forum for First-time Entrepre-neurs to know the evaluation of business scope, iden-tify right products, market potential, investment quan-tum, etc.

Post Event Report ofNational Investors' Conclave on Technical Textiles

(NICTT 2019)

The conclave was inaugurated by the Chief Guest,Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS, Secretary Textiles, MOTwith the Guest of Honor, Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, DGLife Sciences- DRDO. Shri. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chair-man, Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA andShri. PrabhuDamodaran, Convenor, ITF also gracedthe inaugural session.

Speaking on the event, Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS,Secretary Textiles said that while the growth of tech-nical textiles sector is spoken of enthusiastically andhas been projected at 2 lakh crore by 2021. The indus-try and research institutes should come together torealize the sector's full potential and asked industrial-ists to identify prototypes developed by COEsto adaptthem to the industry. He also emphasized that the Govt.has classified 207 products as technical textiles forimport and export, which will be expanded based onrepresentations from stakeholders. He pointed out thattwo of the ten COEs are established in Coimbatore -PSG College and SITRA. Baseline surveys of the textilesector will reflect the real needs of the industry andthe industry should help in the conduct of such sur-veys, he said. Over the past seven to eight months, hesaid that they had consulted various ministries in theUnion govt. and State govt. and have come up with106 textile products, for which standards already ex-isted. "These belong to various sectors such as rail-ways, home affairs, defence, shipping, agriculture andtransport. We need to work on these with BIS, as wehave the standards and have a procedure which couldbe made mandatory with these ministries for their ten-derization process," he said.

He launched the ITTA video in the presence of all thedelegates which contains the new concepts and tech-

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

nologies used in Technical Textiles for different prod-ucts used in different sectors i.e. railways, defence,construction, medical, filtration, etc.

According to Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, Director-Gen-eral of Life Sciences, DRDO, in the Tejas light combataircraft, the pilot's clothing and gear were developedindigenously and only 10% of it was imported. A studyshows that per capita non-woven consumption in Indiais 0.4 kg and it is 3.0kgs in the U.S. By 2049, it isexpected to be 25 kg in the U.S. and 20 kg in India.So, there is opportunity and "We can have phenomenalgrowth." The need is for research and development.There is scope for development of fire-retardant cloth-ing. The raw material for it has to be imported for theclothing to be developed locally now. Another area ofpotential is insecticide textiles and mats. This will ben-efit several applications," he said. He urged the stake-holders to form a "mahagathbandhan" for the progressof the sector.

Mr. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chairman, in his welcome ad-dress mentioned about the growing market opportuni-ties of technical textile, the sunrise sector and urgedtextile entrepreneurs to focus on making more valueadded products like technical textiles.

Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA briefed aboutthe theme of the conclave to the gathering. He said,"In the previously done programs we have connectedwith the people who are already in the area. We wishto connect with those who are volunteering to invest inTechnical Textiles. We want to see more new entre-preneurs coming into the field of Technical Textiles.The Indian Supply base has to grow tenfold to makesome meaningful impact in the international arena".

Mr. PrabhuDamodaran, Convenor ITF said, "Our re-gion is dynamic and the entrepreneurs here have beenat the forefront of many new approaches and businessopportunities. I am confident that this program will goa long way in motivating South Indian firms to ventureinto Technical Textiles. Being an event with a practicalapproach, entrepreneurs get first-hand information aboutthe industry and its potential."

ITTA signed Memorandum of Understanding(MOU) with NISSENKEN, JAPAN to promoteTechnical Textiles in India.During the event, Indian Technical Textile Association(ITTA) has forged Memorandum of Understanding(MOU) with Nissenken, Japan to promote TechnicalTextiles in India and Japan. The Chairman ITTA - Dr.

Sundararaman K. S. signed this MoU with Mr.NobuhiroKomada- Chairman of Nissenken QualityEvaluation Centre (NQEC). This relationship will ben-efit ITTA Member companies to develop & promotetechnical textiles in Japan.

Technical Sessions-Eminent Speakers were from various Govt. R&D or-ganizations, COEs, DRDO & Technical textile Indus-try and also includes international speakers fromNissenken, Japan &Messe Frankfurt who shared theirrich experience and provide practical views on desir-able projects, their market potential and how to actu-ally launch such ventures. This direct attempt is one ofa kind in the country.

The Second Technical Session was chaired by Dr.Sundararaman K. S., Chairman ITTA. The follow-ing presentations were made during this session.This session witnessed the excellent presentations bythe speakers from India and abroad. They include Mrs.T. Rajeswari, Additional Secretary, Ministry of WaterResources, Delhi, Mr. DevakantaPahad Singh, Direc-tor PM & SQR (LS), DRDO and Mr. Ken Ando &Ms. Alexia Whitfield, Nissenken, Tokyo Lab, Japan.

Mrs. T. Rajeswari spoke about the "Usage of Techni-cal Textiles in different depts. in Ministry of WaterResources". She highlighted that technical textiles haveprovided innovative engineering solutions for severalapplications in civil and geotechnical engineering, forwater infrastructure water resources projects.

The technical textile products which are used in waterresources works are geobags, geotubes, geomembranesand geo-containers.

She also announced that Ministry of Water Resources(MoWR), Govt. of India is organizing the One daySeminar on "Use of Technical Textiles in Water Re-sources Works" on 29th April 2019 at R. K. Puram,New Delhi. ITTA is supporting the event.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Mr. Devakanta Pahad Singh presented the topic on"Technical Textiles for the Armed Forces". He spokeabout the DRDO Technology Spectrum such as Arma-ment & Combat Engineering, Missiles & StrategicSystems, Aeronautical Systems, Electronics & Com-munication Systems, Microelectronics & ComputationalSystems, Naval & Material Systems and LifeSciences.Life Sciences department research on CBRNDefence, Life Support, Operation support and CivilMilitary Interface. The requirements of technical tex-tiles in defence are Physical requirements- light weight,low bulk, anti-static, etc., Environmental requirement-water repellent/proof, UV resistant, etc., Camouflage,Concealment and Deception- Visual spectrum, Ultra-violet, etc.,Flame, Heat and Flash Protection- Flameretardance, Heat resistant, etc., Battlefield Hazards-Chemical and Bio agents, Nuclear radiation, etc. andEconomic Considerations- Minimal maintenance, LongStorage life, etc.

He emphasized that DRDO & ACADEMIA can col-laborate on CARS (Contract for Acquisition of Re-search Services), ER (Extramural Research), ResearchBoards and DRDO Centers located in UniversitiesandDRDO & INDUSTRY can collaborate on ContractedDevelopment, Joint development, Trial supply order andTechnology Transfer (ToT).

"Japanese Innovations in Functional Textiles & Corre-sponding Opportunities in India and Japan" was pre-sented by Mr. Ken Ando & Ms. Alexia Whitfield.Hetalked about the Nissenken Quality Evaluation Center,Japan and its works in the field of Technical Textiles.The various Functionality Finishes are UV cutfinishes,Water-repellent finishes, Water-absorbing quick dryingfinishes, Thermal barrier finishes, Soil resistance fin-ishes, Anti-Virus finishes, Retro reflective Material, Anti-Mosquito finishes, Anti-allergen finishes and Cool feel-ing finishes. He explained about the different opportu-nities where India and Japan can work together mainlyto promote technical textiles.

The Third Technical Session was chaired by Mr.Durai Palanisami, Director, Pallavva Group, BoardMember-ITF and three papers were presented.This session includes the presentations from Dr. PadmaVankar, Research Advisor, BTRA, Mr. Naman Barot,Scientific Officer, ATIRA and Mr. Rajeev KumarSaxena, Sr. Technology Manager (Weaving), LohiaCorp. Ltd.

"Polymeric pressure sensor for smart textiles &Nanofiber application to improve anti-clogging property

of Geotextiles" was presented by Dr. Padma Vankar.

a) She explained about the development of Poly-meric Piezo-electric Sensor for Smart WearableTextile. A piezoelectric sensor usespiezoelectriceffect to measure pressure, acceleration, tempera-ture & strain wherein there are 2 types of piezo-electric effect i.e. direct piezoelectric effect-converts mechanical energy to electrical energy(generator & sensor effect) & indirect piezoelec-tric effect- converts electrical energy to mechani-cal energy (Actuator effect). Piezoelectric Mate-rials are Ceramic base (ZnO, PZT, and BZT) andPolymer base (PA6,PVC, PVDF, PVDF-trFE).She suggested following points - 16% increase incrystallinityby addition of ZnO nanowires, 30%increase in crystallinity compared to control PVDF,22% increase in voltage compared to controlPVDF, Change in signal possible by minimumpressure, Product can be woven or knitted di-rectly with the other filaments, Little cost additionto the existing product and Scalability is very easy,no need of any additional process.

b) She talked about the Nanofiber coated prefabri-cated vertical drainage (PVD) membrane withimproved anti-clogging property. She explainedabout advantages of Nanofiber Media overMicrofiber, features of Nanofiber, Nanofiber Spin-ning Process, Electro-spinning of PA6, CrossSection of The Product, Soil Particle Size before& after Filtration Using Microfiber Membrane,etc. She concluded with the following points- Fi-bre diameter could be reduced to get pore sizeless than soil particle size, Water permeability wasfound more for long duration in nanofiber mediacompared to existing media in presence of soil,Cross section of the exposed nanofiber loadedsample found clean and Nanofiber depositedmedia will help to reduce the consolidation timesignificantly.

Mr. Naman Barot presented the topic on "Antibacte-rial & pollution face mask & Portable water filter bottle".a) He said that India pollution mask market is pro-

jected to grow at more than 18% by 2023 acrossthe urban areas. He pointed out that ATIRA pro-cured a Nanospider Electrospinning Pilot Plantfrom Elmarco, Czech Republic and Nanofiber Pro-duction Pilot Plant Set up consists of UltrasonicCleaning Machine, Acid Fumes Scrubber,Electrospinning Pilot Plant, Polymer Station, De-humidifier and Facemask Converting Automatic

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

Machine. Flow Chart Of Production Plan -Nanofiber Pilot Plant (Nano Fiber Coated Media), Ul-trasonic Stitching (Facemask production) andPackaging (Ready for Use). He explained in detailabout the Testing of facemask media, property,Material consumption, Cost of Facemask Media,Cost of project-Capex and Major Key player inIndia for Facemask Market.

b) He pointed out that the Development of nanofibersbased filter media which gives water completelyfree from muddy particles and micro-organismsand to make and deliver a simpleportable filtrationdevice are the objective of the paper. Thenanofibers based filtration membrane device is pre-pared by perforated tube, coated fabric wrappingon tube, fitration candle and filtration device withfilter candle.

Its characterizations are UV-Visible (UV-Vis), X-rayPowder diffractometer (XRD), Field emission scan-ning electron microscope (FE-SEM), Energy Disper-sive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDS), Microbial assay offiltered water performed by pour plate method,PALAS2010 and Turbidity meter. He mentioned theCost of Water Filtration Bottle, Water Filter Bottle inMarket (Using Conventional Microfiber FiltrationMethod), Material consumption and Cost of projectCapex.

Mr. Rajeev Kumar Saxena presented the topic on "Op-portunities for weaving Geo-textile fabrics on Circularloom". He said that Synthetic geotextile is the fastest-growing material type segment of the geotextile mar-ket. Polypropylene is the major material in demand, heclaimed. Polypropylene woven Geotextileis in increas-ing demand in the Construction Industry and for safe& long lasting road construction. Asia-Pacific regionrepresented the largest market for global geotextilemarket. The market for geotextiles in this region ismainly driven by the ongoing developments in con-struction industry. He also talked about the differentproducts such as Geotextile Filter Fabric, PP Groundcover woven fabric, Weed control mats,on roof garden& terrace as drain & filterand HDPE Pond Liners. Heexplained about the development of bigger Circularlooms (to produce max. flat fabric up to approx. 6.0mwidth) of high performance & quality and its advan-tages.

The Fourth Technical Session was chaired by Mr.Prabhu Damodaran, Convenor, ITF. The follow-ing presentations were made during this session.

This session has presentations by the speakers fromIndia and abroad. They include Mr. Hemant Dantkale,Partner, DN associates, Mr. P. K. Choudhury, Princi-pal Technologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata and Ms.Jesica John, Manager -Techtextil India, Messe Frank-furt India Ltd.

Mr. Hemant Dantkale presented on "Airlay nonwovenproducts for automotive and building insulation".Hespoke about the Recycling and Nonwovens Eco-friendlysolutions for the Automotive Industry. He explained indetail about the industrial textile waste, hard wasterecycling, post consumer waster ecycling and its nonwoven quality. Different nonwovens solutions for Auto-motive are blending lines for fibers and polymers, AirlayFlexiloft, Airlay Flexiloft +, Airfelt with Resin Felt Op-tion and Airfelt. Above solutions are used for differentapplications in automotive sector.

"Various types of Jute Geotextile (JGT) like woven,nonwoven, open weave" was presented by Mr. P. K.Choudhury. He highlighted global demand of technicaltextiles by application wherein TT represents about31% of the total Textile Production. It is forecastedthat in 2022 the market demand will be 35.5 million tonwith CAGR of 3.7 %. He talked about the JuteGeotextiles (JGT) viz. woven, nonwoven, open weaveetc. used in various civil engineering applications withsuccess, machineries used to manufactures, its advan-tages. There are many Union States who have usedJGT with success in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, TamilNadu, Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, etc.Some of thecase studieswhere JGT are used: - Kakinada Port-Andhra Pradesh, Andulia-Boyratala Road- West Ben-gal, Agartala-Mohanpur-Chebri Road at Tripura, etc.He discussed about different application of JGT i.e.Slope Management, Protection of River Banks,Strengthening of Road Sub- Grade, Stability of Em-bankment, Prevention of Railway Track Subsidenceand Consolidation of Soft Soil.

Ms. Jesica Johntalked about the "Overview of theTechtextil-2019 on Technical Textiles".She spoke aboutthe overview of the Messe Frankfurt - Techtextil eventworldwide. She also said Messe Frankfurt is organiz-ing the Techtextil India 2019 on 20th - 22nd November2019 in Mumbai focusing on the composites with dif-ferent technical textile segments.Exclusive programsof the event is direct buyer seller meeting, Productgallery zone, knowledge forum and direct market up-date. She also mentioned that ITTA is supporting theevent.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

The Fifth Technical Session was chaired by Dr.Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA and threepapers were presented.This session includes presentations from Dr. PrakashVasudevan, Director, SITRA, Dr. Kuldip KumarSharma, Mentor, VFPL MEDEVICE and Mr. AndyThayumanavan, GM, Reliance Inds. Ltd., Chennai.

"Medical Textiles- Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nano-finish surgical gown fabric, Barbed suture"was pre-sented by Dr. Prakash Vasudevan.

He delivered lot of information on the products ofMedical Textiles, new opportunities available for entre-preneurs. Challenges involved in the production ofMedical textiles, Market Statistics to identify the scopefor new ventures.

He revealed in detail about the facilities and assistanceprovided by SITRA for entrepreneurs' development inMedical Textiles. He presented high potential medicaltextile areas of - Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nano-finish surgical gown fabric andBarbed suture.

Dr. Kuldip Kumar Sharma spoke on "InnovationMeditech Products- Transfer Device & MAMMAPOD". He highlighted that Innovations/patented devicesdeveloped Indigenously through the efforts of Govern-ment, Healthcare sector and research institutions un-der make-in India and start-up India initiatives of Govt.of India. Hospital acquired infections (HAIs) are amajor cause of mortality and morbidity. Hospital ac-quired infections (HAIs) is a major safety concern forboth health care providers and the patients.

VPFL has developed Medical Devices/ Innovations suchas Patient Transfer Device (PTD) (Transfer life) andKangaroo Mother Care (Mamma Pod). The featuresof PTD are infection free, spill proof, no maintenance,no insertion and Nontoxic & Kangaroo Mother Care(Mamma Pod) are maintain warmth, safety & supportearly breast feeding for LBW, hands free mode to

perform daily activities, early hospital discharge, pouchis flexible to accommodate the growth & weight ofbaby as it grows, etc. Other Innovations such as mat-tress protectors, soft and cozy baby care sheets, etc.

Mr. Andy Thayumanavan presented the topic on"Polypropylene Nonwovens for Hygiene & Meditech".He pointed out the applications of nonwoven fabricand different fibres used in Nonwoven where PP isthe major Nonwoven fibre used globally. In India, majorsynthetic raw materials are Polypropylene (PP) - 58%& Polyester - 42%.He discussed in brief about theemerging application areas of PP Nonwoven i.e. Hy-giene, Medical, Agrotextiles& Geotextiles, differentnonwoven manufacturing processes and also said thatSpunlaid technology to Gain Maximum Traction in theNear Future. The following conclusions and recom-mendations are suggested to use Nonwovens in Hy-giene & Medical areas- Low Consumption, technologytrends, Growing Economy, Rising Disposable Income,Govt. Initiatives/Awareness, Light Weight, Soft andComfortable, Offers Safety Patient, Better Hygiene,Easy to Use and Dispose and no washing.

The Panel discussion was on "Perspectives ofentering Technical Textile Industry- from Insideand Outside"Mr. Amit Agarwal, Vice Chairman, ITTA was a Mod-erator and the experts Mr. Manoj Kumar Jhajharia,JMD, Salona Cotspin Ltd, Board Member-ITF, Mr.Mahesh Kudav, MD, Venus Safety, Director-ITTA, Mr.Pankaj Kapoor, MD, Park Nonwoven Pvt. Ltd., Di-rector-ITTA and Mr. GopinathBala, CEO-SVS-SAF,Board Member-ITF were the panelists.

You may see that in this panel discussions were acombination of experts who are already in the techni-cal textile industry and others are from outside thetechnical textile industry. Mr. Kapoor and Mr. Kudavshared their valuable experience of more than 10-15years' journey of entering the industry. Mr. GopinathBala who has recently entered into the technical textilemanufacturing also shares his success story. On theother hand Mr. Jhajharia who is in cotton textiles now,is also of the opinion that conventional textile businesshouses can enter this field.

The conclave received over whelming response andattended by more than 200 delegates from the techni-cal textile Industry, potential new Investors, Manufac-turers who want to diversify, Start-Ups and Agents/Dealers/ Distributors of Technical Textiles.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

◆ High speed Sample Warping Machine suitable foryarn range between 5 to 500 Tex

◆ Sectional Warping Machine has user friendly ad-vance software & data management

◆ Single End Sizing Machine offers 4, 8, 12 and 16spindle configurations

India based and innovation driven company, RabatexIndustries has lined-up the latest and innovative weav-ing preparatory technologies including battery operatedmaterial handling equipment in a 72 square metre stallat ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in Hall no. 4, Booth no.D215. The technologies on display include an Auto-matic Sample Warper, Single End Sizing Machine,Advanced Sectional Warper, Battery Operated Mate-rial Handling Equipment and also an Ultrasonic ReedCleaning Machine.

The Rabatex high speed Automatic Sample WarpingMachine model RI 6001 is primarily for production ofsamples and short production warp at very high pro-duction rate. The RI 6001 has a robustly constructedwarping drum, suitable up to widths of 2400 mm andfor warping lengths between 21 and 450 metres (de-pending on thread density) and suitable for yarn rangefrom 5 to 500 Tex.The RI 6001 comes with a heavyduty rotational creel with a maximum creel capacity of16 colours and is suitable of attaining maximum speedsof up to 1,200 metres per minutes.

The Rabatex Sectional Warping Machine RI 112 is astate-of-the-art technology which produces high qualitywarp beams with higher productivity. The RI 112 comeswith user friendly advance software and data manage-ment, which offers all online data of warping opera-tions. It also offers graphical display of all events andbreakages and also loss end memory control.

Single End SizingThe ergonomically designed Single End Sizing MachineRI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations

Rabatex Lines-Up Innovative Weaving PreparatoryTechnologies at ITMA 2019

and produces sized yarn of the highest quality to en-sure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations.

The RI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of10's to 120's Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30to 210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electricheater drying system.

The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing MachineRI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurationsand produces sized yarn of the highest quality to en-sure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations. TheRI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of 10'sto 120's Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30 to210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electric heaterdrying system.Rabatex operates four fully functioningmanufacturing units, dedicated to producing state-of-the-art machineries and technologies. Another plantcovering an area of 50,000 square metres is underconstruction, which would be devoted for manufactur-ing material handling and storage equipment.

"All our technologies, including those on display at ourITMA 2019 stall are very robust and so require veryless maintenance. We have developed these technolo-gies through our in-house R&D team and go throughrigorous tests before being launched in the market,"MrHaresh Panchal, Managing Director of RabatexIndustries said.

"We have grown in double digits in the last few years,thanks to the continuous launching of new technologiesand also due to the excellent after sales servicesupport,which we provide to our customers," Mr.Panchal added.

For more information please visit http://www.rabatex.comMedia Contacts:MsShimaDhirajRabatex IndustriesIndiaTel: +91 79 2290 1367/68/69/70Email: [email protected] Contacts:MsShimaDhirajRabatex IndustriesIndiaTel: +91 79 2290 1367/68/69/70Email: [email protected]

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Sintex Industries Ltd., a well-known textile group inGujarat, India, has recently set-up a Greenfield pro-cessing project for processing cotton and linen, both inyarn and fibre, with a capacity of 30 tons/day at inAmreli district.The project is currently under execu-tion.

STALAM RF DRIER

Sintex has entrusted a significant responsibility to A.T.E.for this new project. A.T.E. is a single window solu-tion provider for all textile processing machinery needsin India, and has unparalleled domain expertise in thefield. A.T.E. represents some of the world leaders inthe processing equipment segment and offers innova-

Sintex goes with A.T.E. for the green field projectin textile processing

tive technology solutions and world class after salesservices.

This project includes machines supplied by some ofA.T.E.'s principals, namely Fong's, China, Stalam, Italyand Color Service, Italy.

Fong's, the market leader in package dyeing machines,has supplied 47 bulk production machines and 15 labscale package dyeing machines. Stalam, well knownfor its RF driers, has supplied 7 machines for dryingyarn and fibre. The project also includes a fully auto-matic dyes and chemicals dispensing solution from ColorService, Italy, a world leader in the field of dispensingsystems.

This is one of the largest package dyeing projectsexecuted by A.T.E. The project is now under commis-sioning and the initial trials have shown encouragingresults, with the commercial production set to com-mence soon. .

A.T.E. and Sintex have decade's long business rela-tionship. A.T.E. recently worked with Sintex in ex-ecuting several huge spinning projects, and this newyarn dyeing project is set to be the next milestone inA.T.E.'s long association with the Sintex group.

World Traders Mfg. Co.is the exclusive agent of for-eign principal M/s. Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH &Co. Germany, since more than 40 years and on theirbehalf it is informed that Textechno is participating inTechtextil Fair from 14th May to 17th May, 2019 atFrankfurt am Main, showcasing Textechno Testingequipment for technical fibers and yarns.

The experts of quality control systems TextechnoHerbert Stein Gmbh& Co. KG, Monchengladback/Germany, will showcase its latest testing for industrialfibers, yarns and composites at the Techtextil.

The Favimt+ Auto feed, a fully automatic single-fibertesting system, combines 6 different testing methods todetermine the following fiber properties in a single in-

Textechno participating in Techtextil Germany Fair

strument: linear density, tensile properties, mechanicalcrimp properties (crimp percent, removal force andstability) geometrical crimp structure, fiber to metalfriction and bending stiffness. The sample feed unitAutofeed reduces labor for preparation of the testspecimen and introduction into the test field to a mini-mum.

The fimatestsystem, which measures the fibermatrixadhesion by means of a single-fiber pull-out will alsobe on show. The system consists of the Fimabondembedding station and a clamping accessory to theFavimat+.

A further highlight is the automatic linear density andtensile tester for high tenacity yarns Statimat 4U. This

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

INDUSTRIAL VISIT REPORTSURENDRA Textile:

SVITT SVVV organized Mill Visit forB.TechTextileTechnology of 2nd year studentsat M/SSurendraTextiles,Indore.Total 32 students and twofaculty mem-ber Prof.Yogita Agrawal and Prof.ShyamBarhanpurkarhadvisited the company on 15.4.2019.

During that visit, Mr. Mishra,In charge,Surendra Tex-tiles explained the students about the working motionof weaving machine and automatic looms.

Maral Overseas Limited:

SVITT performed various activities

On 5th March 2019 Third Year B.Tech Students ofTextile Engineering, SVITT, SVVV Indore had visitedMaral Overseas a premium Textile Industry for handto hand experience.They have introduced with the total dyed knitted fabricproduction line from blow room to dye house. The totalvisit has incorporated spinning, knitting, chemical pro-cessing, conditioning of yarn, knitting and dyeing (fab-ric and lea).

From SVITT, SVVV, Prof. SushantaNaik and Dr.ShamayitaPatra and Mr. K.K.Nair, HR Manager fromMaral Overseas had led the industrial visit.

SWASTIK GARMENTS (EMBROIDERY UNIT):

Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, SVVVIndore has organized one day industrial mill visitatSwastik Garments (embroidery unit) for 1st year B.Sc.Fashion Design students on 02nd March, 2019.

In that visit, students accompanied with Dr.ShamayitaPatra and Mr. Rajkumar Sharma. During this visit, Mr.Bharat More,Unit In charge, explained the studentsabout the working of embroidery machines and lasercutting machine.

instrument is especially developed for very coarse andhigh tenacity yarns with a force measuring range upto5,000N. Therefore, Statimat 4U is suitable to testeven materials with the highest tenacity, such as Ara-mid, and high tenacity polythelene (UHMWPE) Yarns.

Other products for testing industrial fibers, yarns andcomposites are:Dynafil M+ Dynamic shrinkage tester of all kinds ofyarnsDrapetest Automatic drapability tester for standard andnon-crimped fabrics.

Rovingtest Automatic test system for the processingproperties of rovings.

For more information, please contact:Pradeep GuptaWorld Traders Mfg. Co.1413, Maker Chamber V,221, Nariman Point,Mumbai - 400 021 IndiaTel: +91-22-22872935/22843423Fax: +91-22-22872534E-mail: [email protected]

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

India based UnitechTexmech Pvt. Ltd, the market lead-ers in spinning rings since 1976, will be showcasingtheir latest range of high quality spinning rings at ITMA2019 in Hall No. 7, Stall no. C119. Unitech rings arefinely designed products designed to spin yarn fromany kind of fibres like cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool,flex, blends, etc.

UnitechTexmech offers a wide range of rings to caterto the varied needs of the industry and offer a lifetimeof 3-8 years depending upon count, speed, fibre char-acteristics and under normal working conditions. Theserings include the UNIK1, UNIUltima, UNI QC, UNISX,Steel Conical & Vertical Rings, ISQ Conical & Verti-cal Rings and Stainless Steel Rings.

The UNIK1 ring has excellent wear resistant proper-ties and is tougher than coated rings.

It undergoes a specialised surface treatment, whichgives the ring high fatigue strength for consistent per-formance from the time the ring is placed on the ringframe.

The UNIK1 ring is ideal for spinning fine and superfine counts, compact yarns, dyed yarns as well as yarnsmade from highly abrasive fibres such as Acrylic,Polypropylene, Kevlar, Linen, Bamboo, Polyester,Melange, Modal, etc.

On the other hand, the UNI QC Ring is an economi-cally priced product with salient features of coatedrings. Special hardening process using the latest thermo'SHOCK' treatment, imparts a micro diffusion effectto the ring for best wear resistance and absolute sur-face and matrix properties.

The UNI QCRing is produced from 100Cr6 steel. Thering is suitable for spinning yarns from all types offibres and is a true value for money black ring.

UnitechTexmech to display high quality spinningrings at ITMA 2019

The UNIULTIMARing is a product with a uniquesurface coating, especially suitable for machines run-ning at very high speeds, elite and compact spinningsystems. Here too, the very best quality 100Cr6steel isused and additionally a very hard and thin microfilm ofatomic coating is given, to ensure superior gliding andwear resisting properties at high speeds.

Unitechhas also launched an advanced version of nor-mal conical and vertical rings calledISQ Series Conical& Vertical Rings. TheISQ Series rings are made froma special type of alloy steel and have a fine grainmicro structure matrix for even and uniform frictionproperties.

TheISQ Series Conical & Vertical Rings are subjectedto a high technology process to enhance the wearresistance and for smooth gliding movement of thetraveler, resulting in consistent quality of yarn, veryimportant in production of high value wool yarn.

These conical rings are manufactured in all sizes andof all heights like 6.4mm, 9.1mm, 11.1mm, 17.4mm,and 25.4mm, while the vertical rings range from 6.4mmto 50.8mm in height.

UnitechTexmechhas been exporting its technologies toseveral countries since 1985, which include UK, Italy,Germany, USA, Hong Kong, Turkey, Mexico, Thai-land, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Japan, Taiwan, Argentina,Peru, Vietnam, Malaysia, South Africa and many morecountries.

For more details please contact:Media ContactsMsVrundaBapatDirectorUnitechTexmechPvt LtdIndiaTel: +91 20 2712 0379 / 2712 7674Email: [email protected]: https://www.unitechtexmech.comArun RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsIndiaTel: +91 982 503 8518 / 915 753 9518Email: [email protected]

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

2nd National Conference Texcon-2019organisedon 4thand 5th April, 2019 with a theme of 'Textile Industryand Research in 2030: Challenges and Opportunities'organised by Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Tech-nology of SVVV Universityat SVVV Campus with asupport of DRDO. The conference was having oral aswell as poster presentation.

TEXCON 2019 successfully organised by SVITT

The program inaugurated on 4th April, 2019 at 10.30am by the Chief Guest Shri S.K. Chaudhary, Chairmanof Pratibha Syntex Limited and Guests of Honour ShriS. Pal, Director (Bhopal Operation) of Vardhman Tex-tiles and Shri Harish Chatterjee, Vice President Manu-facturing of Raymond India Limited. Honorable Chan-cellor, Vice Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth

Following speakers were invited.

Sr. Name Designation DepartmentNo.

1 Dr.V. K. Kothari Former Professor Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi

2 Dr.KushalSen Professor Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi

3 Dr. NoopurAnand Professor National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi

4 Dr. A. Mukhopadhyay Professor Department of Textile Technology, NIT Jalandhar, Punjab

5 Dr. M. D. Teli Professor Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

6 Dr. Pravir Chaudhary Professor Visva-Bharati University, Bolpur, West Bengal

7 Dr. J. Srinivasan Professor Department of Textile Technology, KCT Coimbatore,Tamilnadu

8 Dr. S. Dhamija Professor TIT&S, Bhiwani

9 Dr. Srinivasa K. Rao President NEB LLC, Floral Park , New York, USA

10 Dr. NeeleshKanoongo Director Uttar Techno Consultancy, Mumbai

11 Mr. Yogesh Garg Director DILO India Private Limited, Gurugram, Haryana

12 Mr. Baddrudin Khan Manager PMD Multi-Commodity Exchange of India Limited, Mumbai

13 Mr. Naveen Kachawwa Head, Sales, Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., ChandigarhNorth India - II,

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Vishwavidyalaya, Honorary Secretary of Shri VaishnavVidyapeeth Trust graced the occasion with their pres-ence. Other dignitaries from academic institutes, indus-try and professional bodies of textile fraternity werealso present on this occasion. The book of papers wasreleased by the dignitaries on dice. Chief Guest Shri S.K. Chaudhary was felicitated by the Honorable Chan-cellor of SVVV for his contribution to textile industry.In two days 28 papers were presented in 5 plenary and2 technical sessions.

Beside this, conference was also graced by the pres-ence of eminent dignitaries from Textile Association ofIndia, MP Unit, MP Textile Mill Association and Re-gional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore.

15 students participated in the poster presentation. Theday 1 was ended with a conference dinner sponsoredby TAI MP Unit held at Indore Tennis Club, Indore on4th April, 2019 evening. Vice Chancellor of DAVVUniversity, Chancellor and Vice Chancellor of SVVVUniversity, Delegates of TEXCON 2019, Membersfrom industry and TAI Managing Committee Memberswere present the occasion.

The conference was supported by DRDO, MCX Indiaand TAI MP Unit. The news of conference was alsocovered by all the leading newspapers with pre andpost press release.

Valedictory session was conducted on 5th April 2019at 4.00 pm with the presence of Chief Guest Shri D.K. Mittal, President Maral Overseas Limited, Dhamnod,Guest of Honour Mr. Pranav Parashar, Officer In-charge, Regional Textile Commissioner Office, Indore,Honorable Vice Chancellor of SVVV and other digni-taries from SVITT.

Summary report of the conference was presented byChairman of the conference TEXCON-2019 followedby speech of Vice Chancellor SVVV, Guest of Honourand then Chief Guest.

The brochure of next conference of TEXCON-2020was also released with conference theme of "Contem-porary Issues in Textile Manufacturing Process fromFiber to Garment", which will be held on 5th & 6thMarch, 2020. Vote of thanks was proposed by Confer-ence Secretary.

The program was ended with National anthem andfollowed by High Tea.

Textile mills continuously seek to automate their pro-cesses and upgrade their machine and process controlsso as to produce with better quality and lower costs.In some cases, they accomplish their goals through thepurchase of new equipment, or through machineryoverhauls with new parts. In other cases, the path toimprovement requires a tailor-made approach - as themills have machines that are in generally good me-chanical condition, but need new kinds of control, oradd-on systems for automation. Such customisedprojects in textile mills require to be executed by reli-able partners with in-depth textile knowledge.

As a direct response to customers' requests that A.T.E.help them improve the performance of their installedmachines, A.T.E. has launched an Automation divisionunder its TEG (Textile Engineering Group) businessunit.

A.T.E. launches Automation division for textile millsA.T.E., endowed with deep domain knowledge in tex-tile engineering and textile processes, has built-up ateam of experts to undertake automation and upgradeprojects. Machines are upgraded using modern retro-fits and the latest software, resulting in significantimprovement in the performance of these machines,both in terms of productivity and quality.

A.T.E. can undertake machine upgrade/automation ofthe following range of textile machines:◆ Weaving preparatory: Sizing and warping machines◆ Processing: Stenter/merceriser/dyeing ranges/pad

dry/pad steam, etc.◆ Denim: Denim processing lines◆ Synthetics: POY/FDY winders, extruders, PSF

lines, bale press, chip conveying and drying

Apart from custom machine upgrade/automation, theAutomation division has also in its portfolio some

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

From 1 to 500 - ZIMMER AUSTRIAis celebrating thebenchmark of delivering its 500th MAGNOROLL coat-ing machine. The sky is the limit. Another milestonehasbeen achieved in the firmhistory by successfully ship-ping its 500th MAGNOROLL coating machine.

"A milestone indeed and honor for usas well", saysBruce Stalker rom Eclipse Blinds, excited to receivethe machine in Scotland (www.eclipseblinds.co.uk).

Precision, quality and reliability - manyaspects changedsince the inventionof the first MAGNOROLL, but thiscoating machine made its name as industry bench markdue to its constant characteristics of highest qualityand out standing precision for reliable firstclass results.This success is based onthe effort of our dedicatedwork force who managed to continuously improve andinnovate.

Nowadays, the MAGNOROLL coatingmachine isequipped with state-ofthe-art operating software thatislovedby our customers.The machine comes in a unique modular design execu-tion that combines various coating techniques (knife,screen, slot ormagnet roll coating) within justonemachine. This minimizes machine down times andensures quick adaptation to specific requirements.

Join the success road- with MAGNOROLL

500th MAGNOROLL Delivered

productised solutions, such as a fancy yarn system -Fancy Spin - to add value to yarn, which would helpmills realise higher value for their yarn.

Another such productised system is the pre-reducedindigo dosing systems for denim manufacturing (bulkas well as portable). These dosing systems help inmaintaining consistent quality without any shade varia-tion along millions of meters of denim produced and

also help in reducing the load on the wastewater treat-ment plant.

"We have a team of experts with long experience inexecuting such projects smoothly. Customers can counton us for excellent support at all times of the projectexecution, and also post execution", said Mr.VikasBanduke, Vice President - Automation, who is respon-sible for this new business at A.T.E.

Join the success road - and ensure your competitiveadvantage by stocking up your production park with aMAGNOROLL multipurpose coating machine. Fromone-color printing to coating with paste or foams (in-stable, meta-stable, and stable).Various coating mod-ules such as knife, screen, slot or magnet roll coatingcan be changed by afew simple steps. With ZIMMERyou can make the difference.

3 SUCCESS PILLARS FOR SUSTAINABLEADDED VALUEHIGHEST PRECISION, EVEN ON LARGEWORKING WIDTHSConcentricity accuracy and precision is crucial forquality results, especially when applying coatings onlarge workingwidths. The world-famous ZIMMERMAGNET SYSTEM PLUS with up to 3 magnet bars,guarantees a 100% uniform applicationfor any coating,laminating and lacquering. ZIMMER AUSTRIA coat-ing systems ensure the needed accuracy andprecisionfor applying coatings also on working widths largerthan 5 meters.

FROM IDEA TO INNOVATION - OWN APPLI-CATION CENTREAccelerating our client's success is at the heart of ourDNA. Therefore, ZIMMER AUSTRIA provides the

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

opportunity to runtrials or even small-scale productionsat our Technology.Application Centre in Klagenfurt.Depending on the individualrequirements we offer avariety of standard and special coating techniques tobe tested together with our expert technologists,suchas knife coating combined with screen printing.

QUALITY ALWAYS - THROUGH DECADES OFEXPERIENCEOutstanding coating results require attention to every

KARL MAYER, RABATEXINDUSTRIES andA.T.E. set up a joint venture, 29.03.2019On 29 March 2019 KARL MAYER, RABATEX IN-DUSTRIES and A.T.E. signed a contract for settingup a joint venture. The legally independent company iscalled KARL MAYER Textile Machinery India Pri-vate Limited, has its registered office in Mumbai andproduction facility in Ahmedabad.

L to R:AnujBhagwati, Managing Director of A.T.E., ArnoGärtner, CEO of KARL MAYER, and Haresh Panchal,

Managing Partner of RABATEX INDUSTRIES,KARL MAYER is the majority shareholder and takesresponsibility for the management of the newcompany.KARL MAYER Textile Machinery IndiaPrivate Limited will focus mainly on the manufacturingand sale of warp preparation machines and creels mainlyfor Indian market, as well as service and spare partssale for warp preparation and warp knitting machines.

By means of the newly founded entity, the joint ven-ture partners aim to enhance their position and distri-bution in the Indian market. Moreover, it is intended tomake good use of the existing competencies and syn-ergies, especially in terms of purchasing and customerservice.

"With the further development of our international or-

A new player for warp preparation machines in India

ganization, and with our proven way to produce in ourmain markets, we want to continue to make a contri-bution to the long-term success of our customers. Weare really proud of setting up this joint venture. Bypooling our strengths, we will be able to even bettersupport our customers, being close to them in the localmarket", explains Arno Gärtner, CEO of KARLMAYER.

"The special contribution of KARL MAYER andRABATEX INDUSTRIES to the joint venture will beproduction know-how and manufacturing capabilities inthe sector of warp preparation machines. Both compa-nies are important players in the warp preparation in-dustry", says Roland Kohn, President of the BusinessUnitWarp Preparation of the KARL MAYER Group.KARL MAYER is recognized as a leading and inno-vative machine manufacturer in the world market in allthe areas it is active in.

A.T.E. enriches the group due to its proximity to themarket and its strength in customer support. The com-pany has already been KARL MAYER's distributionpartner for many years."We are honoured to deepenour relationship with KARL MAYER and start a newrelationship with RABATEX INDUSTRIESwith thisnew joint venture. We thank our many customers thathave encouraged us to take this step with their con-tinuous support. We are confident we will be able toserve them better" says Anuj Bhagwati, ManagingDirector of A.T.E.

Dr. Pawan Kumar Singh, Managing Director of KARLMAYER Textile Machinery India Private Limited un-derlines this statement: "We are striving for marketleadership in India and supporting the 'MAKE ININDIA' initiative of the Government of India. By com-bining our know-how and our resources in the field of

detail and the highest quality in every step of the pro-cess. ZIMMERAUSTRIA has decades of experiencein the manufacturing of coating systems, where weachieved many breakthrough innovationsthat our cus-tomers benefit from. We believe that quality makes thedifference. Therefore, we offer tailor-madecoatingsystems, manufactured with highest quality materials(stainless steel, chromed steel, etc.), equipped withstateof-the-art operating software to bring our custom-ers the highest level of quality.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

warp preparation machines, we can provide solutionsto our customers with exactly those things which theyrequire for their competitiveness, from production tocustomer service and support".

RABATEX INDUSTRIESalso relies on the synergiesof the new relationship. "RABATEX INDUSTRIES isexcited about this association with KARL MAYER, atechnology leader in warp preparation machine indus-try and A.T.E., India's leading customer focused textile

In 2009, A.T.E., a leader in textile engineering, joinedhands with LUWA, a global leader in industrial airengineering, to provide humidification solutions to thespinning and weaving sectors in India. A.T.E. andLUWA are backed by eight decades of experience intheir respective fields, and LUWA has also been asolution provider to the Indian textile industry for over25 years.

A.T.E. - LUWA Team in 2009

Mr Aras and Mr Abrell in 2009

LUWA stands for well-engineered, innovative systems,plants, and solutions for textile and other industries,always conforming to Swiss standards. In textile airengineering, they offer solutions for humidification, air-

A.T.E. and LUWA mark a decade ofworking together

conditioning, filtration & waste handling requirements.LUWA offers complete and comprehensive servicesranging from consultancy covering conception to manu-facturing, installation, maintenance, and warranty ser-vices. LUWA is a trusted name for it's over 1,000customers in India.

Over the years, LUWA became the first time intro-ducer of many new types of equipment, which subse-quently set the standard as the optimum way to run amill. For example, prefabricated air handling units inIndia have become very popular, which LUWA hadintroduced more than 20 years ago. LUWA is wellknown for its maintenance friendly rotary air filter withthe suction nozzles mounted outside the filter drum;and for high-speed air washers made of non-corrosivematerial, with reliable high efficiency direct driven axialflow fans.

LUWA built its reputation in India with the spinningsector. However, apart from spinning, LUWA also hasa huge presence in the weaving sector. One of itsmost popular offerings is the LoomSphere. TheLoomSphere system has been developed to reduceenergy consumption by means of direct air introductionfocused on the production area where high humidity isrequired at the warp. The main advantage of the LUWAsolution is the laminar flow air direct displacement airoutlet. The LUWA air outlet placed on top of the loomprovides laminar low speed airflow to the warp bymeans of a filter mat placed inside the outlet. Thelaminar flow assures a steady airflow without turbu-lence that causes induction of air mixed with low hu-midity ambient air. If instead, a high-speed air outlet isused, the humidity at the warp becomes neither con-trollable nor stable, which would adversely affect thequality and steadiness of the fabric.

machinery marketer. Our respective strengths will helpus in providing advanced technology machinery backedby professional aftersales service to the Indian textileindustry", said Haresh Panchal, Managing PartnerofRABATEX INDUSTRIES.

Press releaseKARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 Obertshausen

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Mr P.K Singh, President, Luwa India says "With A.T.E.,we found the right partner, which complimented ourline of business. Our customers are our strength andwe found similar philosophy in A.T.E. which is themajor reason behind our successful partnership in In-dia"

A.T.E. has been in the forefront of the Indiantextileindustry providing latest technology solutions andserving as a one window solution provider across thetextile value chain. A.T.E., with its strong sales net-work, customer relationship and industry knowledge,has been a perfect partner for LUWA over a decade.

Focuses innovations in Saree with Liva.Birla Cellulose hosted a Hub Development meet atBhagalpur focusing on growth of the hub through inno-vations in dress materials, sarees& stoles with brandLiva. With the market for women's apparel witnessinghigh demand and expecting a further rise, it is defi-nitely an area of focus for the industry. A traditionaland one of the oldest textile centres of India, Bhagalpurhas been associated with the silk industry for hundredsof years, and famous all over India for its Tussar Silk&BhagalpuriSaree.

Through this meet Liva aimed to take forward its ini-tiative that was started in Salem of providing innova-tion, technical, product and marketing solutions for thevalue chain, buyers, exporters and brands across thecountry.

The objective of the meet was to build awareness onemerging trends in women's apparel globally and par-ticularly in India, changing needs of consumer andgrowing environmental concerns. It also aimed to shareunique opportunities for yarn partners and weavers togrow their business with Liva. Buyers representingprominent brands were also present for the conclave.

Birla Cellulose Conducts Hub Developmentmeet in Bhagalpur

"There is a huge gap in the product offerings in Sareesfrom Bhagalpur. You either have a premium or thereis basic level. There is a need for mid and mid -premium range. We aim to fulfil this gap by giving ourpartners more product offering and a compelling valueproposition", said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Global Chief Salesand Marketing Officer, Birla Cellulose.

Various innovative ranges of yarns, fabrics and sareeswere showcased by various Liva's esteemed partners.The products showcased were well-regarded for theirsuperior hand feel and luxurious softness.

The products which were most appreciated were SilkX Modal in dress material, sarees as well as stoles.

Partners found the event to be highly relevant andwere enthusiastic about the possibilities of innovationas well as processing and marketing support by BirlaCellulose. The event was well appreciated and theattendees are looking forward to associate with LIVA.Birla Cellulose also felicitated its valued partners inthis forum appreciating their valued support in develop-ing innovative yarns and fabrics.

Birla Cellulose as an organization aims at pushing thesustainability movement in India. With the entry of Livain this category, Saree too is set to be more sustainablewith use of technologically enhanced eco-friendly fab-rics.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

As a part of their industry initiative, Liva from BirlaCellulose conducted a hub meet at Salem focusing onSaree Category. A key textile centre, Salem is knownfor yarn-dyed products and innovations in fabrics. Theevent was focused to provide a one-stop customerexperience centre for innovation, technical, product andmarketing solutions for the exporters, brands and buy-ers across the country focusing on the saree category.

Today, the saree market is about INR 65,000 crore andSalem has a unique blended fabric offering for sarees.The motive of the meet was to build awareness for theemerging trends within the saree segment, and alsosharing an opportunity for yarn partners and weaversespecially from the Salem region to participants andgrow their business with Liva. This meet had partici-pants from different regions like Ellampalli, Erode, Salem,Perundarai, Gobbichittipallayam, Komarapalayam andBelgaum.

Mr.Manohar Samuel, Senior President - Marketing, BirlaCellulose commented, "Salem being the current impor-tant textile centre and a forerunner in yarn products,proves the hub meet to be a perfect blend to providethe startling innovation and colours of the saree prod-

Birla Cellulose conducts successful hub meet in Salemucts to the various brands across domestic and globalmarket. As per our consumer study, the demand forcomfortable and sustainable products will keep grow-ing and LIVA will work as the right solution for com-fort and fashion."

Various innovative ranges of yarns were showcasedby our esteemed partners-Sumeet Synthetics, KeshavRayon &Anjani associates. The products showcasedwere well-regarded for their superior hand feel andluxurious softness. The products which were mostappreciated were Silk X Modal, cotton X Modal, andNylon X Modal.

Weavers found the event to be highly relevant andwere enthusiastic about the possibilities of innovationas well as processing and marketing support by BirlaCellulose. The partners attending the event found net-working opportunities through this event. The eventwas well appreciated and the attendees are lookingforward to associate with Brand LIVA for sarees.

These meets by Liva have always found to be highlyrelevant and create an enthusiastic air about the pos-sibilities of innovation and marketing support.

From a net consumer of textile machinery to being aplatinum sponsor of ITMA is a long way to come forthe Indian textile machinery industry.ColorJet is thefirst Indian digital textile printing company to strike aplatinum sponsorship deal at ITMA 2019and will havea stand at Hall-3, Booth No-B102.

ITMA is the world's leading showcase for textile andgarment technology, including textile printing, and itprovides the ideal platform for the industry to presenta wide rangeof the latest technologies. ITMA 2015featured 1,691 exhibitors from 46 countries, 95 sup-porting media from 19 countries and 123,000 buyersfrom 147 countries.Of these visitors, 21% were from the printing anddyeing sectors.Thetextile printing industry represents 30 billion squaremetres of material volume on an annual basis world-wide while global digital textile printing market was

ColorJet Becomes Platinum Sponsor at ITMA 2019valued at •1.17 billion in 2016 with growth forecast toreach •2.42 billionin 2021. Digitally printed textile isgrowing at a steady annual rate of25%."ColorJet is proud to be Platinum sponsor of ITMA2019. This partnership is aligned with our aspiration ofbecoming a global digital textile printing brand comingout of India with a face of efficient Indian engineeringproduct and technology," says Mr Jitender PalSingh,Vice President (Textiles) at ColorJet India.Ms Sylvia Phua, ITMA 2019 Project Directoradds,"Printing is an exciting sector at ITMA 2019 as theindustry has seen vast transformation in the digitalarena. We are pleased to welcome ColorJet, a leadingIndian manufacturer of digital inkjet printers, to show-case their innovations at our exhibition."For more information please visitwww.colorjetgroup.com.Media Contact:Ms.Kareena ChoudharyMarketing ManagerColorjet India LimitedCell: +91 99100-90306/Email: [email protected] RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsIndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 Email: [email protected]

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

Mr. Ashok Swamy, General Manager, A.T.E. (alumnus1991, SGGS Text) delivered expert lectures on "Ad-vances in the Sizing" and "Robotics in Carpet Weav-ing" for the S.Y.& T.Y.Textile students on 19/3/2019.

He has shared the new upcoming technogies like

Expert lecture by Mr. Ashok Swamy at SGGS InstituteProsize and Robitics in Carpet. This event wasorganised by The Textile Association (India)Marathwada Unit and Textile Dept. of SGGSIETNanded for textile students and staff. Dr. R. N. Joshiwas the Coordinator for this activity.

He has also organised and sponsored Alumni students'interaction program 2019 for SGGS Textile final yearstudents in the COLORS hotel.

Institute thanked him for his visits to the Institute andorganising such a nice get-together continuously sincelast three years and also delivering expert lectures &motivational speech for students without taking anymonetary returns. Really it was a GIVING BACK TOTHE INSTITUTE.

5,760 certified facilities, increase of 14.6%, with morethan 2 million workers reported in 2018

GOTS Representative in India and BangladeshIn 2018, the number of GOTS certified facilities showedan increase of 14,6% from 5,024 to 5,760 facilities.Certified facilities are now located in 64 countriesaround the globe. GOTS certification covers the pro-cessing of certified organic fibres along the entire sup-ply chain from field to finished product.

The progress is seen in both production and consumingregions. Countries and regions with the largest growthin percentage in 2018 in GOTS certification are:Bangladesh (+29%), North America (+25%), Pakistan(+23%) and South Korea (+23%). In terms of totalnumbers, the highest increase is reported from India(+315), followed by Bangladesh (+155) and Europe(+98).

The top ten countries in terms of total number of cer-tified facilities are: India (1973), Bangladesh (689),Turkey (519), Germany (500), Italy (340), China (301),Pakistan (238), Portugal (215), USA (127), and SouthKorea (85).

The 18 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies reportedmore than 2.02 million people working in GOTS certi-fied facilities.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)show continued significant growth

"The increasing number of certified facilities aligns withthe common desire to solve sustainability related prob-lems. It confirms that GOTS is seen as part of thesolution. Company leaders use GOTS as risk manage-ment tool and as market opportunity. Consumers valuethe verifiable certification from field to finished prod-uct." said GOTS Managing Director Claudia Kerstenat the GOTS Annual Meeting in Izmir, Turkey.

The number of chemicals in the Positive List shows anincrease of 13% to 20,231 from 778 suppliers. TheGOTS Positive List contains tradenames of approvedchemicals that must be used by all textile processorsfor processing of GOTS goods.

"Bangladesh continued its second position and regis-tered a growth of 29 percent in terms of GOTS cer-tified facilities. We shall be organizing GOTSBangladesh Seminar 2019 on 8th September in Dhakaand look forward to hosting all local stakeholders there",said Sumit Gupta, GOTS Representative in India &Bangladesh.

"Besides a thriving export market, India has an emerg-ing domestic market for organic textiles. Several newbrands have started offering GOTS goods in domesticsector during year 2018 and two major brands areplanning to do so this year", continues Mr. Gupta.

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

KARL MAYER is inviting the sector to an exchangeof ideas at Techtextil, stand 3.0/E 18, 14.-17.5.2019 inFrankfurt

Conductive warp-knitted textile from the TEXTILECIRCUIT platform

3D-printed textile

KARL MAYER is showcasing warp-knitted textileshaving an exceptional level of performance in hall 3.0/E 18 at Techtextil 2019 in Frankfurt. On show will beproducts with integrated electrical conductivity andshaping characteristics from the new TEXTILEMAKERSPACE platform, an extremely efficient tex-tile solution for protecting buildings, and a completelynew generation of warp-knitted spacer textiles. KARLMAYER is also inviting people to attend an in-houseshow, to be held at the same time as the fair, at itsheadquarters in nearby Obertshausen. This event iseasily accessible by bus transfer and will be premieringa new nonwovens machine for the visitors. KARLMAYER is also a trendsetter in the field of digitisation.This manufacturer has grouped all its digital solutionsunder the KM.ON brand, and will also be showcasingthis system on its stand at the Techtextil.

RAPID TEXTILE- the quick way to new solutionsTextiles with an excellent performance and lowermanufacturing costs can be produced by combining the

Highlights from the universe ofhigh-performance warp knits

possibilities of additive production with warp knittingtechnology. Examples of this include warp knitsfunctionalised by 3D printing and these are being pre-sented at Techtextil.

KARL MAYER has grouped together all its activitiesrelating to the use of new technologies and innovativeproducts under the concept of RAPID TEXTILE. Theyform part of the TEXTILE MAKERSPACE system, aplatform that offers the space to try things out, developnew products and think outside the box.

TEXTILE CIRCUIT - the quick way to electrify-ing designsElectrically conductive textiles are a hot topic at themoment and can be produced in a variety of differentways. The easiest method is to directly incorporateconductive yarns during fabric production on the ma-chine.

TEXTILE CIRCUIT, another element of TEXTILEMAKERSPACE, shows the potential of warp knittinghere. Conductive zones offering maximum flexibility interms of geometry, dimensions and location can beproduced on KARL MAYER's multibar raschel ma-chines. Examples include inductive charging stationsand the remote control of robots, and these are beingdemonstrated at Techtextil.

New solutions for patterns with plastic effectsDouble-bar raschel machines have become firmly es-tablished in the production of warp-knitted spacer tex-tiles featuring a variety of designs. A new model isnow enabling completely new designs to be produced,i.e. warp-knitted textiles with decorative, relief sur-faces. Instead of the spacer layer, three-dimensionaldesign elements are worked on the upper and lowersides. The designs can be shaped and positioned al-most without any restrictions, and can be combinedwith openwork designs. This is opening up a new di-mension in near-net-shaped production in particular.

Security panels made from weft-inserted warp-knittedtextiles - efficient cut protection for buildings and ve-hicles

Burglars frequently use chainsaws and drills duringattempted break-ins, but they can be stopped effec-tively by a new type of patented security panel withweft-inserted warp-knitted textiles in the core. Oncontact with the cut-resistant textiles, the rotating toolsquickly release large amounts of fibres from the ma-terial. These become entangled and the tool is stopped.The highly effective security panels are also very lightand can be applied very easily to e.g. security doors,

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

armoured vehicles, vaults and cash machines.

New raschel machine for web bonding - more op-portunities on the nonwovens marketA model in the new RACOP-NW series will be dem-onstrated at an in-house show in Obertshausen at thesame time as Techtextil. This efficient nonwovensmachine produces stitch-bonded nonwovens from feedwebs, a technology that offers many advantages. Thisprocess produces nonwovens having textile character-istics, such as elasticity and voluminosity, which is notthe case when using chemical bonding agents. Further-more, much less energy is consumed compared tothermal processes. In addition to these general advan-tages, the new RACOP-NW model also offers an

exceptional cost:benefit ratio. It is also extremely flex-ible and can, therefore, be used in a variety of appli-cations. A RACOP-NW, 160", gauge E 14, is produc-ing a textile for the application area heating textiles atthe in-house show.

Press releaseKARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 ObertshausenEnquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel.: 06104/402-274Fax: 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: [email protected]

Lenzing AG: VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco CycleTechnology won the IDEA Raw Material Achieve-ment Award for best new fiber/raw material introduc-tion presented by INDA, Association of the NonwovenFabrics Industry on Wednesday 27, 2019. The IDEAawards recognizes 15 brilliant cutting-edge innovationsas finalists in the nonwovens and engineered materialsindustry. The finalists range from next generationmachinery with digital tools for intelligent production,to layer composite fabrics and sustainable fibres.

VEOCEL™VEOCEL™ is Lenzing Group's flagship specialty non-woven brand. Derived from renewable raw materialwood, VEOCEL™ provides natural care, every day,and is committed to driving industry standards aroundsustainability and natural comfort in the nonwovensector. VEOCEL™ transfers the essence of natureinto nonwoven products through the beneficial proper-ties of VEOCEL™ fibers, including natural absorbency,liquid distribution, contribution to breathability, biode-gradability and versatility.

The VEOCEL™ product portfolio includes VEOCEL™Lyocell and VEOCEL™ Specialty Viscose fibers thatare tailored for sustainable lifestyles and helps tomaintain environmental balance by being fully integratedinto nature´s cycle. These fibers are certified cleanand safe, biodegradable, from botanic origin and manu-factured in an environmentally responsible productionprocess.The VEOCEL™ brand is categorized into fourbranded offers including VEOCEL™ Beauty,VEOCEL™ Body, VEOCEL™ Intimate andVEOCEL™ Surface and its fibers are used in babycare, beauty and body care, intimate care and surfacecleaning products.

Fibers under the VEOCEL™ brand are derived fromrenewable wood sources from certified and controlledforests and plantations and are manufactured in envi-

ronmentally responsible and closed loop productionprocesses. The fibers are compostable and biodegrad-able, enabling them to break down safely into rawmaterials and fully revert back into the environment.

Lenzing GroupThe Lenzing Group stands for ecologically responsibleproduction of specialty fibers made from the renew-able raw material wood. As an innovation leader,Lenzing is a partner of global textile and nonwovenmanufacturers and drives many new technologicaldevelopments.

The Lenzing Group's high-quality fibers form the basisfor a variety of textile applications ranging from el-egant ladies clothing to versatile denims and high-per-formance sports clothing. Due to their consistent highquality, their biodegradability and compostabilityLenzingfibers are also highly suitable for hygiene prod-ucts and agricultural applications.

The business model of the Lenzing Group goes farbeyond that of a traditional fiber producer. Togetherwith its customers and partners, Lenzing develops in-novative products along the value chain, creating addedvalue for consumers. The Lenzing Group strives forthe efficient utilization and processing of all raw ma-terials and offers solutions to help redirect the textilesector towards a closed-loop economy.

Key Facts & Figures Lenzing Group 2018Revenue: EUR 2.18 bnNameplate capacity: 1,034,000 tonsEmployees: 6,839

TENCEL™, VEOCEL™, LENZING™, REFIBRA™,ECOVERO™, LENZING MODAL™, LENZINGVISCOSE™,MICROMODAL™ and PROMODAL™ aretrademarks

Lenzing wins the IDEA Raw Material Achievement Award

NEWS


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

TAI celebrated its 80 years Anniversary

POST EVENT REPORT

80Years Anniversary Celebration of The Textile Asso-ciation (India) with one day conferenceon" Global Tex-tile, Changing Scenario in current Times".

The Textile Association (India) celebrated its 80 yearsAnniversary, hosted by The Textile Association (India)- Ahmedabad Unit on 09th April, 2019 at Dinesh Hall,Ahmedabad.

Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman welcoming all thepresent Dignetories, Guests & Invities

Chief Guest Shri Jaynarayan Vyas lightening the lampalong with other dignetories on the dais

It was 9th April 1939, the foundation of theTextileAssociation (India), laid to face the host of challenges.The vision created by Founders, Technocrats and lead-ers from small and big industries came together on acommon platform that would bring laurels to not onlyindustry but to the country at the large.

Guest of Honor Dr. Chandan Chatterjee lightening thelamp along with other dignetories on the dais

Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman lightening thelamp along with other dignetories on the dais

'Global Textile, Changing Scenario in Current Times'was not just the theme of the conference to celebratethe 80th Anniversary, but it was the concern to bringback the pristine glory of the Industry. Near about 700delegates participated in this conference and at thepremises of conference venue there were 10 stallsprepared for different textile companies where we haveoffered one stall in the name of Government of Gujaratalso to display their latest product brochures, bannersetc.

After invocation,a prayer to Lord Ganesh, and lightedthe lamp by the dignetories, Mr. T. L. Patel, Confer-ence Chairman welcomed all the guests, invitees anddignitaries on the dias and delivered speech about theconference. Presidential address given by Mr. T. K.Sengupta, President of TAI.80th Anniversary com-memorative lecture by Mr. Arvind Sinha gave presentstatus of textile world.

Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas, Chief Guest, had given brief over-


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

POST EVENT REPORT

view of the Textile Industry in general and touched theaspects from cotton to synthetics and various aspectsof value change with reference to textile.

The Textile Association (India) presented various awardsduring 80 Years anniversary celebration conference tothe eminent personalities who have rendered their ser-vices to The Textile Association (India) and in the textileindustry in various fields with their outstanding profes-sional and Technical Experties.

Mr. M. K. Mehra, Past President, TAI is felicicated byhands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. M. K. Mehra, Past President, TAI is felicicated byhands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. D. R. Mehta, Past President, TAI is felicicated byhands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Sr. No. Award Category Receipients Name

01 BHISHMA PITAMAH Award Shri M. K. MehraPast President of TAI

02 BHISHMA PITAMAH Award Shri Suresh G. VaidyaTrustee of TAI

03 BHISHMA PITAMAH Award Shri D. G. NaikPast President of TAI-AU

04 PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE Award Shri Devraj R. MehtaPast President of TAI

05 INDUSTRIAL EXCELLENCE Award Shri Subhash BhargavaMD - Colorant Ltd.,

06 TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE Award Shri Manjit Singh SainiCEO & Executive Director, Paramount

07 ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Award Dr. NavinShethVice Chancellor, Gujarat Technological University

08 ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Award Prof. Parimal H. VyasVice Chancellor, MS University, Baroda

09 ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Aaward Prof. Ashwin ThakkarHoD - Textile Technology,L. D. College of Engineering, Ahmedabad

10 BEST EMPLOYEE OF TAI AWARD Shri VithalPhondkeOffice Manager of TAI-Central Office


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

Mr. D. G. Naik, Past President, TAI - Ahd Unit isfelicicated by hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. Saurabh Bhargava, M D, Colorant Ltd. is felicicatedby hands of Chief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. Manjit Singh Saini, CEO & Executive Director,Paramount is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest

Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Registrar Dr. J. C. Lilani receiving the award on behalfProf. (Dr.) NavinSheth, Vice Chancellor, Gujarat Techno-

logical University, Ahmedabad by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Prof. Ashwin Thakkar receiving the award on behalf ofProf. Parimal H. Vyas, Vice Chancellor,

The MS University, Vadodaraby hands of Chief GuestDr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. Vithal Phondke, Office Manager of TAI-CentralOffice is felicicated by hands of Chief Guest

Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Mr. T. L. Patel, Conference Chairman is felicicatingChief Guest Dr. Jaynarayan Vyas

Later on in the first session Mr.VarunVaid, AssociateDirector-Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd., representing Gov-ernment of Gujarat and given key areas to focus fac-tory start-up strategies, project feasibilities, value chainmapping, policy formulation outputs and financial mod-elling. He leads the strategy products in the Textile andApparel sector. The next paper in the session by Mr.Rajiv Bajaj, Head, Shirting Business of Raymond Ltd.,

POST EVENT REPORT


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

who shared his experience of dealing with the 'Inter-national Brand Licensing' issue, extensive exposure inworsted textile, Denim, Sportswear and Sports Foot-wear Industries.Mr. Subhash Bhargava,Managing Di-rector representing Colorant Ltd.,given overall reviewof Indian Dyes Market. Increased focus is being laidonenvironmental friendliness and ensuring greater cus-tomer focus through technical services and marketingcapabilities to face global competition. The DyestuffIndustry is not applying only sustainable processing butalso coming up with sustainable textile solutions.

In the afternoon,3 technical papers were presented.'Sustainibility in Textile-need of future' by Mrs. ManjiriParanjape, Sr. General Manager, R & D of RossariBiotech Ltd. Climatic changes are one of the majorconcerns of the 21st century.The Textile Industry hasundergone a drastic transformation due to growingpollution problem. Implementing laws. Increase aware-ness among the consumers to buy textiles that use lesswater, energy and chemicals, and ultimately lowers theenvironmental issues. This has increased the demandfor sustainable and eco-friendly textiles. The other paper'Weaving-Latest Technology' presented by Mr. PradeepKulshreshtha, Plant Head of United Fiber CompositePvt. Ltd. Weft insertion methods for making Apparelsand Technical fabrics have been widely adopted aroundthe globe. He discussed the evolution of weaving, basicsof weft insertion techniques significantly. Selection ofloom depends upon the type of textile materials thathas to be woven, which is again depends upon the everchangingtrend of the market.The real innovative andneed of the hour topic -related to ENVIRONMENTwas by Mr. Kasper Nossent, Director-DyecooAsia ,introducing the green revolution. System describes -'Waterless Dyeing" A great environmental blessing intoday's time', and presenting 'a game changing technol-ogy'.

The main attraction of the conference was THREEPanel discussions, which were attended by most of thedelegates participated very effectively with live discus-sion. The first Panel Discussion was on 'Fiber, Spinnig& Machinery' chaired by Mr. B.B.Sharma, CEO, Tex-tile Projects, Sintex Industries Ltd. Consisting the valu-able experienced panel membersfrom the various in-dustries. Mr. Atul Vaidya, GM, Sales from OerlikonTextile India Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Lalit Kalantri from BajajSteel Industries Ltd.; Dr. Hemant S. Sonare, GroupDirector-Wanjari Group.; Mr. Manijit Singh Saini, CEO& Executive Director from Paramount & Ms. DaxaJani, Manager, Cotton MCX, Mumbai.They have taken

care of various aspects of manufacturing industriesand issues based on them.Even finance / Market trad-ing regarding cotton and varied substrates.

In the afternoon session, the Second Panel Discussionon 'Apparels' which was chaired by Mr. Arvind Sinha,Chief Advisor & CEO of Business Advisors Group.India is a land of opportunity, Think globally and actlocally will be the main consideration for coming years.Fiber, yarn, fabric or apparels- the significance of adopt-ing export oriented and quality conscious approach tooccupy driver's seat in the global market. Keeping thisin mind we had Mrs. Meena Kaviya, Director of AymaCreations Pvt. Ltd.,

Mr. Bhavin Parikh, CEO of Global Textiles (India)Ltd., and Prof.Ashwin Thakkar, HoD, Textile Technol-ogy of L.D.College of Engineering.This session re-mained very interesting and informative with activeparticipation from the audience.

After tea-break, the third Panel Discussion on 'Tech-nical Textile' was chaired by Mr. Amit Agrawal,ViceChairman, Indian Technical Textile Association.Themembers of the panel were Dr. P.A .Khatwani, Pro-fessor- Textile Dept. SCET , Surat, Mr. RavishankarGopal, Managing Consultant- KS Technical and Man-agement Consultant, and Mr. Hemant Dave, President,TAI- Baroda Unit.

Technical textile is the fastest growing sector of Tex-tile Industries.These are the textile materials and prod-ucts mainly manufactured for the technical and perfor-mance properties rather than their aesthetic properties.Itis expected that the demand for technical textiles inIndia will increase expotentially. There was tremen-dous response from the delegates and the quest for thesubject by the delegates was really worth appreciableand faculties had tried their level best to satisfy them.

At the end,in the valedictory session, Dr. ChandanChatterjee, Director-Retlon Industries Pvt. Ltd. & In-ventive Hospitality Promotional Councilhad briefly out-lined the deleberations held during the conference andconclude very effectively. Shri Ashokkumar D. Patel,Hon. Secretary of TAI-Abad Unit proposed vote ofthanks of the conferene.

POST EVENT REPORT


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

The Textile Association (India) - Madhya Pradesh Unitcelebrated their 75th anniversary on 02nd March, 2019as a National Textile Summit and Platinum Jubileecelebration in the Jall Auditorium, Indore.

The Textile Association (India) Madhya Pradesh unithas been working for overall development of textileindustry in Madhya Pradesh since last 75 years. It wasstarted in 1944, which has been established today withmore than 2000 members as one of the big TAI unit.

Various programs are organized from time to time byTAI M.P.Unit to which exchanges dialogues on topicsrelated to textile industry. At present the textile is goingthrough a difficult phase. In such a situation, it is nec-essary that we make some efforts to improve thecondition of Textile Industries. This program is a smalleffort, in which the Textile Specialists present in theprogram expressing their views, and will also tell youwhat efforts can be made to improve this situation.

Industry leaders, teachers, students and people work-ing on the shop floor were invited from the textile for

ideological exchange in this program. Many peoplerelated to the textile industry of Madhya Pradesh wereinvolved in this program. On this forum, we respect allthe legends with respect to some of the people whoassist with the Textile Association, where the mainname is Mr. Sandeep Jain, Mr. Ajit Jain, Mr.Purushottam Pasari, Dr. Kamlesh Bhandari, Dr.Jayantilal Bhandari, Mr. Keshav Singh etc.

This evening, the Chief Guest, Dr. Narendra Dhakadjiwas honored with Shrimat Bhagwat Geeta, after hon-oring the visiting guest and forwarding the program, ajournal of the Voice of the World which is releasedonce every 6 months in the association, released it. Itwas received by Mr. Purushottam Pasaraji, the firstcopy taken by the Chief Guest of the evening today,after which it was distributed among all guests.

While moving the program forward, what should onetry to do for the Happiness in the textile guest, andthanking the Textile Association, expressed his ownideologies in front of everyone and said that this workcannot be done without the cooperation of everyone.All of us should make efforts to do this together. Allthe speakers stressed that the condition of today's tex-tile is very pathetic, then this is will try together all |finally, thanking everyone for the program culminatedwith dinner.

Highlights1. Dr. Narendra Dhakad spoke on make it India &

Institute world together than situation.2. Dr. M. D.Telispoke that it is most important hon-

esty in our profession.3. Shri Kailash Agrawal (Cotton Chapter) Honored

by Mr. Ankit VedaName of member attended the program;Mr. Ashok Veda, Mr. A.K. Sharma, Mr. M. C. Rawat,Mr. Sushil Moghe, Mr. K. S. Sikarwar, Mr. PratapSingh Sikarwar, Mr. Praveen Joshi, Mr. Ashok Prasad,Mr. Ashok Mehra, Dr. Prabir Kumar Choudhary, Dr.Nilesh, Mr. J. N. Kapoor, Mr. Virendra, Mr. S. Kapoor,Mr. T. K. Sinha, Mr. Pawan Kumar Gupta,Mr.Himanshu Garg, Mr. Manoharlal, Mr. P. Raj Shukla,Mr. Sriniwas Rao K, Prof. Mr. Kushal, Ms PritiWarathe, Mr. Tanveer Malik, Mr. Vijay Kumar Kothari,Ms. Purnima Kothari, Mr. Sudershan Dhamija, Mr.Kushal Sen etc.

TAI Madhya Pradesh Unit celebrated its Platinum Anniversary

POST EVENT REPORT


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

The global rise of central-bank in-dependence in the past 25 years. Inthe 1970s it was normal for politi-cians to manipulate interest rates toboost their own popularity. That ledto a plague of inflation.

And so rich countries and many poorer ones shifted toa system in which politicians set a broad goal steadyprices and left independent central bankers to realiseit. In a single generation billions of people around theworld have grown used to low and stable inflation andto the idea that the interest rates on their bank depositsand mortgages are under control.

How Central Bank Works

Today this success is threatened by a confluence ofpopulism, nationalism and economic forces that aremaking monetary policy political again. President DonaldTrump has demanded that interest rates should beslashed, speculated about firing the boss of the FederalReserve and said he will nominate Stephen Moore andHerman Cain, two unqualified cronies, to its board.Brexiteers rubbish the competence and motives of theBank of England.

Central Banks under Political threats globallySourced & Compiled by Mr. Arvind Sinha

India's government has replaced a capable central-bankchief with a pliant insider who has cut rates ahead ofan election. Huge exercise Indian Elections are al-ready going on as this submit this article 3/4th of IndianElections are already over many top jobs at the Euro-pean Central Bank (ECB), including the presidency,are up for grabs, and some could become part ofa wider political struggle over who runs Europe's insti-tutions.

There is a genuine need for reflection on central banks'objectives and tools. But dangerous forces are afootthat could have alarming consequences for economicstability.

The problem of politicisation last became acute in the1970s. After the post-war Bretton Woods currencysystem collapsed, central banks failed to tame racinginflation because politicians, who pulled the strings, werereluctant to bear the short-term cost of higher unem-ployment. Two decades of runaway prices and crisesled to a new orthodoxy that central banks should begiven operational autonomy to pursue an inflation tar-get. In the euro zone, Japan and Britain central banksbecame legally independent in the 1990s. In Americathe White House refrained from even publicly discuss-ing Fed policy. This consensus survived the crash of2007-08 and is one reason why global inflation hasbeen only 4% a year on average over the past twodecades.

THIS MAY INTEREST YOU


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

The fraying of central banks' independence has sev-eral causes. One is populism. Leaders combine thepolitician's desire for low interest rates with a recklessurge to undermine institutions. Another is the scope ofcentral banks' activities, which expanded after the fi-nancial crisis. Most now hold huge portfolios of gov-ernment bonds while, at the same time policing thefinancial industry.

And the record of central banks is far from perfect.Because they have probably been too hawkish (despitetheir unconventional policies) the recovery from thecrisis has been slow, undermining voters' faith in thetechnocrats whose loyalty is supposedly to the publicinterest. All this makes it easier to view them as po-litical. Meanwhile, the memory of the crises that led toindependence has faded.

In Europe a flurry of job changes threatens to lowerthe calibre of decision-making at the ECB and feedunderlying disagreements. By the end of the year, threemembers of the six-strong executive board and eightof the 19 national governors, who also vote on rates,will have left. Behind the political game of revolvingchairs is a battle between countries to control policy.Northern Europeans have been suspicious of the ECB'sbond-buying, seeing it as cover for subsidising southernEurope. Rather than win by force of argument, theyare seeking an edge by getting their own people intothe top jobs. That will store up problems.

Perhaps global inflation will rise again from its grave,in which case weaker central banks may struggle tokill it off. More likely is an economic downturn. Theworld economy has decelerated this year on April 9ththe IMF downgraded its forecasts. Central banks mayfind themselves needing to pep up their economies.

This is what makes today's politicisation so dangerous.Technocrats face a difficult challenge. The rich worldhas hardly any room to cut interest rates before hittingzero, so central banks will once again have to turn tounconventional stimulus, such as bond-buying. The Fedand other central banks may also need to co-operate

globally, as in the wake of the crisis.

The ECB will have to convince markets that it will dowhatever it takes to contain another financial panic onEurope's periphery. The presence of political appoin-tees, who are either ill-qualified or northern Europeanhawks, would make all these tasks harder. It is not justthat their votes count, but also that they would poisonthe public debate about what central banks should andshould not do to deal with recessions.

The talking cure

It is right that the objectives and tools of monetarypolicy are subject to democratic scrutiny and that cen-tral bankers are accountable to legislatures. The Fed isreviewing its target in order to be prepared for a down-turn. Other central banks should follow suit. In thelong run, this secures their legitimacy and hence theirindependence.

Yet in today's political environment it is naive to thinkthat politicians really want a considered debate. In-stead, the more central banks are in the limelight, themore they will find their month-to-month decision-making subject to external pressure, or find themselvesat the whim of boards packed with hacks.

It is just that sort of politicisation that the theoristsbehind independent central banks wanted to avoid. Lookback 40 years and you will get a flavour of what couldgo wrong.

Sourced & Compiled byMr. Arvind Sinha - CEOM/s. Business Advisors Group, MumbaiCell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612Email ID: [email protected] /[email protected]

THIS MAY INTEREST YOU


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

EXAM RESULT


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

EXAM RESULT


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

EXAM RESULT


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

EXAM SCHEDULE


Jour

nal

of t

he

TE

XT

ILE

Ass

oci

atio

n

EXAM SCHEDULE


Jour

nal

of t

he T

EX

TIL

E A

sso

ciat

ion

INDIA

Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet - 'Source India 2019'Date : 21st to 23rd August, 2019Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Mr. MuraliBalkrishna, Joint Director

The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles ExportPromotion Council

Tel. : +91-22-62318282E-mail : [email protected] : http://www.srtepc.in

VIBRANT Terry Towel - Global Expo & Summit 2019Date : 25th to 27th September, 2019Venue : Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskutik

Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari SugarFactory Area, Hotgi Road,Solapur - 413 224 Maharashtra, India

Contact : Mr. Rajesh Goski, CEO - VTT GES 2019Textile Development Foundation,P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road,Solapur - 413 006

Mobile : +91-9422459001E-mail : [email protected],Website : www.vibrantterrytowel.com

Great India Textile ShowDate : 15th to 17th November, 2019Venue : Station Road, Ichalkaranji,

Dist.: Kolhapur (MH)Contact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha

Essential Events & Trades FairsM. : +91-9324077881, +91-9718514089E-mail : [email protected] : www.essentialtradefairs.com

3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibi-tion (ITMACH)Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground,

Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad,Gujarat, India

Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawalaMob. : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401E-mail : info.itmach.com / [email protected]

Indian Textile Sourcing ExhibitionDate : 05th to 08th December, 2019Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground,

Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad,Gujarat, India

Contact : Mr. Arvind Semlani,Mob. : +91- 9833977743E-mail : info.itmach.comWebsite : www.ITSE.com

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

Every effort is made to ensurethat the information given iscorrect. You are however, ad-vised to re-check the dates withthe organizers, for any changein schedule, venue etc., beforefinalizing your travel plans.

ABROAD

International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition(ITME AFRICA)Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, EthiopiaContact : India ITME Society

1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing,12th Floor,Plot No. 211, Nariman Point,Mumbai - 400 021

Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834Fax : 022-2285 1578, M.: 7303456667E-mail : [email protected],

[email protected] : itme-africa.com

ITMA 2019 - Largest International Textile and GarmentTechnology ExhibitionDate : 20th to 26th June, 2019Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via, Barcelona, SpainContact : Daphne Poon

Marketing Communications DirectorITMA Services Pte Ltd.73 Ubi Road 1, #08-48 Oxley BizHub,Singapore 408733

Tel. : (65) 6849 9362, M: (65) 94789543E-mail : [email protected] : www.itma.com

5th Edition - Intex South Asia 2019Date : 13th to 15th November, 2019Venue : BMICH

(Sirimavo Bandaranaike Exhibition Centre)Colombo, Sri Lanka

Contact : Mr. Narendra Sharma, Project AssociateWorldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd.309, Parvati Premises, Sun Mill Complex,Lower Parel (W), Mumbai - 400 013

Tel. : +91-22-4037670 Ext.702,Mobile : +91-9821232723E-mail : [email protected] : www.intexfair.com

Documents

Untitled-1 []€¦ · rayon to give luster and softness to cotton fabrics. Color and appearance, where novel designs may be carried out by incorporating multi-color effects [1, 2]