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UNLOCKING PERU’S POTENTIALWhile wine might be a second choice drink for many Peruvians, there is a ground swell of support to develop Peru as the ‘worlds next big wine region’.

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WINSOR DOBBIN

PERU is one of the hottest gourmet destinations on the planet, but cocktails overshadow wine as the preferred drink for chic locals.

No fewer than three Peruvian restaurants were listed in the top 30 in the world in 2016 - all in the capital of Lima - and fusion cuisine from the South American country is all the rage in London and New York. But while wines from neighbouring Argentina and Chile have made a major impact around the globe, wines from Peru are rarely exported despite the country’s immense potential.

Lots of Peruvians prefer the national drink of pisco to wine, with the clear grape brandy often served as a pisco sour cocktail.

Many of the grapes grown domestically (estimated at up to 90 per cent) are used to distil pisco, rather than for wine. So while gourmets flock to restaurants like Central, where Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon’s food was ranked No.4 in the world last year, to 13th-ranked Maido and to 30th-ranked Astrid y Gaston, they almost certainly won’t be drinking Peruvian wine.

That is despite Adolfo Hurtado, chief winemaker at leading Chilean wine producer Cono Sur, having told Drinks Business that he believes Peru has the potential to be the world’s next big wine region and is looking for vineyard land. “Peru has no frost and in many parts is desert-like and dry, the same as northern Chile,” Hurtado said.

“It’s such an interesting country with great winemaking potential.”

The coastal plains around the city of Pisco are the heartland of Peruvian wine production. Around 220km south of Lima, Pisco is located in the centre of Peru’s Pacific coastline. On either side are the towns of Canete, Chincha, Ica, Moquegua and Tacna, regarded as Peru’s viticultural centres. Ica, known locally as “Land of the Sun”, is an oasis of fertile land on the northern edges of the Atacama Desert.

The grape varieties used in Peruvian winemaking are those best suited to warm-climate viticulture, including grenache, tannat, petit verdot and malbec, alongside cabernet sauvignon among reds, and whites, including torontel (known as torrontes in Argentina), sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and various muscats. Pisco, which has been described as being similar to Italy’s grappa, is also claimed by neighbouring Chile. There are various theories of origin for the name pisco, but the brandy is exported with far more success than the country's wine, and it can be hard to find Peruvian wine at all outside sophisticated major cities like Lima, Cusco and Arequipa. The cabernets and sauvignon blancs of Tacama are among the easiest to find (the tannat/petit verdot blend is very good), along with Ocucaje and Vista Alegre. Intipalka wines, made by Santiago Queirolo, are considered among the best.

There are also around 80 small “artisan” wine producers and very good local beers, with Cusquena and Cristal the mainstream favourites along with several craft options, including those made from quinoa. The first vines were brought to Peru shortly after its conquest by Spain, and there were several vineyards in the 16th and 17th centuries, although the boom was ended by an earthquake in 1687. There have only been sporadic revivals since. No one is likely to visit Peru purely to try wine, but this rising star of tourism in South America, is one of the most diverse and exciting destinations. From ancient Inca civilisations to the rainforest jungles of the Amazon, to the desert wilderness of high-altitude Andean villages and the colonial European-style architecture in cities like Lima and Arequipa, Peru is a world in one country.

Whether you are a wildlife lover, gourmet, walker or history lover, Peru offers a range of different and often offbeat experiences. Machu Picchu, the Hidden City of the Incas high in the Andes Mountains, is one of the greatest destinations - a fixture on many travellers’ bucket lists, but Peru is full of alluring attractions depending only on your focus and fitness. Peru is bordered by Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. Here are some “must do” experiences:

Opposite Page from top to bottom: Street vendor at Pisac Market, multi-coloured corn, Misto Volcano viewed from Arequipa.Top: Colourful potato vendor.

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Un i que fo odPeruvian food is on the rise, with three eateries ranked in the top 30 in the world and in addition to the star names, flamboyant chef Gaston Acurio, known for his fusion food, has affordable offshoots called ChiCha in Cusco and Arequipa.

Visitors must try indigenous Peruvian ingredients like quinoa, maca, chilli peppers, Lima beans, native fruits and dozens of varieties of corn, as well as traditional favourites like guinea pig (best sampled in the small village of Lamay) and alpaca.

Lake T it i caca Well worth a long trip, this huge lake straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia in the Andes and is one of South America’s largest lakes. It is regarded as the world’s highest navigable body of water. Take a charter boat from Puno to the “Floating Islands”, as the Uros Islands are known. These are man-made islands constructed out of reeds where villagers take the many visitors on short canoe rides and try to sell them locally-made goods. Further into the lake you’ll find the small hilly island of Taquile where there are no cars and people still live a traditional lifestyle.

Machu P i cchu The spectacular and well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most famous icons of the former Inca empire. Dating back to the mid-15th century and completely awe inspiring, it is one of the most famous and spectacular set of ruins in the world. It is best to arrive early in the day (stay overnight in Cusco to be just a short bus ride away) to avoid the crowds and come well prepared as there is a considerable amount of walking and climbing involved.

Cusco This spectacular city, high in the Andes, is one of South America’s treasures with its many colonial buildings and Inca treasures like the Temple of the Sun and Sacsayhuaman Fortress. A tourist hotspot, Cusco is packed with high-quality hotels like the fabulous JW Marriott, recently named as one of the finest on the continent. The RailPeru Vistadome train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, gateway to Machu Picchu, is a lovely experience with great views and fabulous service, which included an impromptu fashion parade by train staff on our return journey.

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P i sac Market Every Sunday members of the tribes of the Sacred Valley of the Incas descend on the small, dusty town of Pisac for the regional market. Many walk long distances wearing traditional costumes to reach the market.

The market specialises in fruits, vegetables and meats, along with ceramics and items made of alpaca wool. It is a riot of colour and well worth a visit.

Shopp ing Peru is paradise for bargain hunters, with a huge range of alpaca clothing and quality handicrafts ranging from wood carvings to jewellery, musical instruments and ceramics. Buying local goods at markets like the colourful one at Pisac, or from one of the thousands of roadside stalls, helps families and small producers to gain their modest income. The city of Puno, gateway to Lake Titicaca, is regarded as one of the cheapest places to buy.

Arequ ipa Peru’s second city is often overlooked in favour of more tourist-oriented destinations. That’s a huge pity as Arequipa is a wonderfully cosmopolitan and elegant city with colonial buildings reminiscent of some of the finest cities of Europe.

There are superb squares and alleyways with influences of Madrid and Paris, excellent eateries (try ChiCha and La Benita) and magnificent viewpoints. A great city for strolling and/or chilling out for a few days.

Opposite Page from top to bottom: Peppers at Pisac Markets, Machu Picchu, Intipalka Chardonnay wine, Pisco Sour.From Top to bottom: Tacama winery, Republica del Pisco bar in Cusco, architecture in Arequipa, Island on Taquile on Lake Titicaka, Guinea pig on a stick from vendor lady in Lamay.

No one is likely to visit Peru purely to try wine, but this rising star of tourism in South America, is one of the most diverse and exciting destinations.

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Amazon jungle Fly to Puerto Maldonado in the remote province of Madre de Dios, then take a motor-powered canoe up the Tambopata River into the Amazon basin, where there are several national parks and reserves for walkers and eco tourists. The Amazon is home to pink dolphins, jaguars (rarely seen), ocelots, giant river otters (which we did sight), several species of monkeys, 4000 types of butterflies and one-third of the world’s 8600 bird species, including very vocal macaws. You can fish for piranha in the oxbow lakes. Stay in comfortable camps, reached only by water, like Posada Amazonas and Refugio Amazonas, where the only power is provided a few hours a day by generators as you sleep under mosquito nets.

L imaThe sprawling Peruvian capital is where you will probably start and end your trip. Allow lots of time as the locals laugh that “rush hour lasts most of the day”. Miraflores is the cosmopolitan and very safe quarter in which most of the international hotels are based and is home to the Huaca Pucllana pyramid remains (you can dine overlooking the illuminated ruins), the green oasis of Parque Kennedy, something of a community hub, and the modern Larcomar entertainment and restaurant complex. Highlights include the city’s main square in the historic centre, the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and the important archaeological collection at the Larco Museum.

Colca Canyon A couple of hours by vehicle outside Arequipa, this is one of the world’s deepest and most spectacular canyons, and one of the best places to observe condors and other birds of prey, which use the thermal currents to soar and dip. The Cruz del Condor is where we saw five condors and several hawks. En route, you'll see wild vicunas, the siblings of domestic alpacas and llamas, and will pass several traditional villages, as well as Lagunillas, a lagoon packed with Andean flamingos.

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Opposite Page from top to bottom: Bananas grow along the banks of the Tambopata River, Lima City Centre, Colca Valley canyon.From Top to bottom: Accommodation at Rufugio Amazonas, Cusquena beer, colourful tropical flowers of the Amazon jungle, Maiz Morada black corn, different fruits at Pisac Markets, Inca villagers at Mismonay in the Andes.

THE FACTS Peru is a very easy country to travel, although surprisingly large. In some rural areas the roads can be rough and hiring a driver or using an organised tour can be a good idea, but generally someone with basic English is on hand. Do not be fearful of using the local facilities, for a few pennies clean toilets are available just about everywhere. Also, you'll need to avoid tap water and buy (cheap) bottled water wherever you go. If all this sounds enticing, it is. But Peru is not a destination for everyone. Beware if you lack mobility (there are lots of stairs and a considerable amount of walking needed), if you are distressed by extreme poverty (there are lots of shanty towns) or if you are affected by high-altitude or fearful of mosquitoes.

The writer was a guest of Contours Travel. With 40 years of experience, Contours Travel is Australia’s most experienced and longest running Latin American travel wholesaler and agency, specialising in tailor-made, small group itineraries and special interest tours in Mexico, Cuba, Antarctica, South America, Central America and the Caribbean Islands.

Director Ted Dziadkiewicz first explored the area as an overland bus driver in the mid-1970s and he maintains a strong, hands-on focus on the business. Contours offers both bespoke and escorted small group tours. Learn more at: www.contourstravel.com.au. LATAM operates daily flights from Sydney to Santiago, Chile, via Auckland, with onward connections to Lima. LATAM also offers non-stop flights between Sydney and Santiago four times a week in a codeshare partnership. Phone LATAM reservations on 1800 126 038, visit your local travel agent or go to www.latam.com.