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Unit 10: Community and Homelife 113 Unit 10: Community and Homelife Objectives At the end of this unit, you will Be aware of the following Practical information on ground and air transportation in Saudi Arabia Means of implementing Islamic law in Saudi Arabian society Identify Guidelines concerning dress, photography, restaurants, shopping and communications technology in Saudi Arabia Religious morality police Jidda Dhahran Realize Lack of traditional “Western” recreation and leisure pursuits in Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabian attitudes to domestic help and manual labor Respect given elderly in Arab circles

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Unit 10: Community and Homelife

113

Unit 10: Community and Homelife

ObjectivesAt the end of this unit, you will

Be aware of the following

• Practical information on ground and airtransportation in Saudi Arabia

• Means of implementing Islamic law in Saudi Arabiansociety

Identify

• Guidelines concerning dress, photography,restaurants, shopping and communications technologyin Saudi Arabia

• Religious morality police• Jidda• Dhahran

Realize

• Lack of traditional “Western” recreation and leisurepursuits in Saudi Arabia

• Saudi Arabian attitudes to domestic help and manuallabor

• Respect given elderly in Arab circles

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Unit 10: Community and Homelife

1. Transportation and Travel

a. Driving Saudi Arabia’stransportation system has undergoneremarkable development in the past twodecades. The Kingdom now has over 30,000kilometers of paved roads and over 60,000kilometers of unpaved roads.

This network connects all the cities and main towns andeven extends to some remote settlements. People who dwell inthe steppe lands still do without roads. However, it is notdifficult to make your own way in such areas, provided thatyou recognize and avoid soft ground. The newer roads are inexcellent condition, except for some in al-Asir Region.

There, flash floods rush through the wadis (normally drywater courses) during the rainy season and destroy pylons,bridges, and roadbeds. Apart from domestic travel, cross-border traffic has likewise benefited from expansion of thehighway system. All-weather roads link Saudi Arabia to mostneighboring countries; Oman and South Yemen are theexceptions. The road to Bahrain passes over a 25 kilometercauseway, which was opened in 1986.

Driving in Saudi Arabia used to be a very hazardous andnerve-wracking activity. In the mid 1970s, the importationof vehicles increased along with per capita income. A largepercentage of the Saudi population purchased cars or pickuptrucks and started driving for the first time. Many of thesenew drivers had no concept of lane markings, traffic signals,speed limits, and safe driving practices. Some even usedtheir vehicles for reckless stunts. At one point, the

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traffic fatality rate for the Kingdom was 13 deaths per day.This picture has improved considerably over the last decade.

U.S. military personnel are allotted, on a pro-ratabasis, sedans and jeeps for official and personal use.

Driving in Saudi Arabia is muchmore of an adventurous undertakingthan in the United States sinceSaudis drive considerably faster andmore unpredictably than Americandrivers.

One must learn to drive by “instinct” and make much moreeffort to judge the intentions of other drivers andpedestrians.

As mentioned previously, women are not allowed to drivewithin the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Otherwise, all driversare required to have a Saudi license, which takes about onemonth to obtain. Possession of a valid U.S. or internationallicense will simplify that process and also sanction drivingin the interim for diplomatic personnel.

New personnel may bring vehicles into the Kingdom.However, they should consider the following points beforearranging any shipment. There is an import ban on pickuptrucks and certain American and British cars. Personnelassigned to DAO should contact the Embassy’s AdministrativeOfficer for specifics. For rare makes, spare parts will bedifficult to obtain, as will maintenance and repair services.

The surface of any vehicle willsustain considerable wear because ofthe environment--scorching sun, blowingsand, high humidity along the coasts,and debris from construction anduncovered trucks on the highway.

There are a large number of new and used car dealers inRiyadh and the other large cities. One can obtain Japanese-made passenger cars and pickups for a reasonable price.

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Any vehicle purchased in the Kingdom must be registered.If a dealer is involved in the sale, he will probablyexpedite that process for a small fee. The registrationshould be kept with the vehicle at all times. In the eventof a serious accident, wait at the scene until the policearrive. Be prepared to accompany them to the local stationfor detention, pending investigation, determination ofresponsibility, and assessment of compensation. Autoinsurance is not required by law. However, it is advisableto have maximum third-party liability coverage.

Good highways exist between major cities, but any localexcursions into the desert must be done by jeep; and eventhen, you run the danger of getting stuck in the sand unlessyou are familiar with the area and the jeep trails.

For camping or off-road travels,it is best to have either a four-wheel-drive or front-wheel drive vehicle. Ifyou are driving in the desert it is thecustom to help a person in trouble.

For personal insurance, take along some lumber fortraction in soft areas. Driving long distances betweencities in Saudi Arabia must be accompanied by carefulplanning, since service stations and rest stop locations arefew and far between. Before departing, inform an associateor neighbor of your general route of travel. In case of abreakdown beyond sight of the highway, stay with the vehicleand attempt to build a signal fire.

(1) Coping With Emergencies In the course ofmodernizing the Kingdom, the Saudi government financed theconstruction of many hospitals and medical centers in Riyadhand other cities. These facilities are staffed by doctors,nurses, and lab techs from various lands--the United States,Western Europe, Lebanon, Egypt, Pakistan, India, and thePhilippines. Many of them have equipment of the latesttechnology and fairly high standards of practice. The policeand rescue units are quite adept at cordoning an area,

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diverting traffic, and evacuating casualties whenevercatastrophe strikes. There is very little chance that anattaché, while in Riyadh, would have to take charge in anemergency or administer first aid to himself or others.

That picture changes when the linguist travels to visitremote garrisons or other sites in outlying areas. He shouldensure that his vehicle is equipped with a first-aid kit andthat he knows how to use it. Anything could happen on thehighway. Moreover, there may not be a full-service hospitalwhere he is going. The capabilities of the local medicalstaff may be minimal. The procedures or authorization forevacuation may be in doubt and therefore subject tohindrance.

Remember the following tips for travel. If it becomesnecessary to stop your vehicle near the highway, move itbehind a hillock or some other obstacle.

That provides protection fromtruckers, who are inclined to pulloff the road to eat or sleep withlittle concern for who or what may beahead.

If it becomes necessary to hitch-hike, there should notbe much waiting. Most natives and other drivers as well areapt to pick-up people walking or standing near the highway.

Traveling off the main road canbe risky. As precautions againstbreak-down or accident, heed thefollowing points. Try to have asecond vehicle accompany yours. Takealong a tow rope and some lumber fortraction. Bring communicationsand/or signaling equipment. Takealong a first-aid kit and plenty ofdrinking water.

(2) Forbidden Places Do not attempt to enter theholy cities of Mecca and Medina unless you are a Muslim. Itis absolutely forbidden for non-Muslims to set foot in eitherplace.

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Do not attempt to enter a mosque. In Saudi Arabia,normally only Muslims may enter a mosque. It may happen thata Saudi will invite you to go to a mosque. In such a case,be sure to remove your shoes before you go in.

b. Public Streets Riyadh has in recent times becomethe hub of the Kingdom’s ground transportation network. Thecity is ringed and traversed by a number of modern, multi-lane highways.

Cargo trucks transit the Riyadharea as they haul goods from Jordanor the coastal regions. There areno load limits, and so some roadshave sustained heavy wear. TheRiyadh-Dammam Highway has recentlybeen reconstructed such that itpasses sections of two older roads.

Riyadh has public bus service, which provides fairlygood transportation around the central part of the city.Even so, few people use it. The same Saudi PublicTransportation Company also operates in Jidda and Mecca andprovides intercity service as well. Besides the bus line,taxicabs and rental cars are readily available in Riyadh.When using taxis, it is best to settle on the fare inadvance. Most “men of affairs” drive themselves or ride withtheir chauffeur, and so the city streets are often congested.

c. Air Travel Saudi Arabia has three internationalairports. The ones at Jidda (JID-dah) and Riyadh have ultramodern facilities and occupy vast acreage. The one atDhahran (dah-RAHN) is undergoing renovations. From any ofthese airports, there are numerous daily domestic andinternational flights to Europe and the Middle East and lessfrequent direct flights to North America and Asia.

Do not bring to Saudi Arabia any items which are eitherillegal or considered offensive to Saudis. This refersmainly to alcoholic beverages, books, and magazines of anexplicit sexual nature. It also includes materials which arecritical of the Arabs, Islam, and Saudi Arabia.

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d. Railroads Railroads play a minor role in the Sauditransportation system. One operational line connects Dammamwith the inland port of Riyadh. Most of the trains haulcargo, although a passenger train runs once daily in eachdirection.

2. Public Behavior and Attitudes

When in public, do not demonstrateaffection for a spouse or friend of theopposite sex. Saudis never do this,and find such behavior quiteunacceptable.

As stated previously, you may occasionally see Arab menwalking hand-in-hand with each other. This indicates nothingmore than the fact that they are good friends. If you shouldbecome good friends with a Saudi and he should reach out andhold your hand, try not to be startled. Accept it as theSaudis’ customary demonstration of friendship. Keep in mindalso that sexual relations between unmarried persons arestrictly against the law in Saudi Arabia.

Do not eat, drink, or smoke in public during Ramadan.Since Moslems are not allowed to eat, drink, or smoke duringthe daylight hours of this month of fasting, an Americanshould also abstain from these activities in the presence ofSaudis in order not to offend them. Also, he or she shouldavoid doing these things even in private if Saudi visitors orco-workers are present, and certainly should not offer them acigarette or anything to eat or drink.

Do not openly show anger or curse in any fashion; youcan be jailed for this. Do not get overly excited in publicor bust out with loud congratulations upon yours or anyoneelse’s good fortune. If you want to celebrate, do itquietly.

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Do not touch or pet a dog infront of a Saudi. Dogs areconsidered unclean by Muslim law.Dogs are not kept as pets and areusually filthy and mangy streetroamers, so you probably won’t wantto touch them.

Do not voluntarily get involved in social incidents oraccidents, even to give first aid. This can lead tocomplications.

Should you accidentally jostle or bump into someone onthe street, you should try not to say “Excuse me,” since thisis considered unnecessary and somewhat odd. Americans seemto be singularly marked by their frequent and fervent use ofthis phrase at the slightest affront.

And, finally, in any confrontation, however minor,getting a seat in a restaurant, purchasing the lastmuskmelon, or whatever, you should always cede to age withoutquestion. This is a world where it is insulting for a man tobe thought younger than he is. Age is considered a sign ofdignity, of respect and wisdom, so that old people arelistened to and are asked to give advice. Our overwhelmingpreoccupation with the maintenance of youth seems odd topeople of the Gulf region, many of whom are not even sure howold they are.

a. Dress Civilian dress in Saudi Arabia is veryinformal (almost no one ever wears a tie) and consists oflight, summer clothing. You should, however, bring along asweater or jacket to wear at night during the winter or atvarious times during the year in the higher elevations suchas Taif and Khamis Mushayt. Dress modestly, especially inpublic. Men should always wear long pants and a shirt, evenwhen it is quite hot. Women should wear long, loose dresseswith high necklines and long sleeves. To disregard thisconvention will offend the Saudis and, in the veryconservative areas, could even lead to trouble for you.

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Be mindful of the Saudi religiousmorality police. Their express purposeis to maintain morality. You could beaccused or punished in public if an actis regarded as immoral in their eyes.

b. Photography Do not photograph people withouttheir permission (particularly women). Many Saudis associatecameras with the “evil eye.” Cameras should not be carriedwith the cover open and ready for picture-taking. In fact,in some towns, picture-taking of any kind is ill-advised andmay result in either your camera or its film being taken awayfrom you.

Before attempting to takepictures at marketplaces or otherpublic places, it is best to askaround and try to learn what thereaction of the local people generallyis toward picture-taking.

If you do photograph people, utilize a long range lens(135-200mm) so as not to appear obtrusive. Avoidphotographing people while they are praying. If permissionis granted to photograph a woman, be sure to include malefamily members. Children like photographs and will yell“Sura, Sura” (picture, picture). If you have a Polaroidcamera, make friends first by giving them a few shots andthen use a 35mm camera or other type for your own pictures.

Do not photograph airports, post facilities, orgovernment or military installations. Saudi airports areconsidered military installations. Saudis are very securityconscious, and even picture-taking while flying over thecountry is forbidden.

c. Attitudes Regarding Law, Hygiene, andEnvironment The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia enforcestraditional Islamic law (sharia) for personal, family, andcivil matters involving Muslims and for all criminal matters.It also enforces supplementary administrative laws

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(tantamount to royal decrees) which regulate matters such ascommerce, traffic, and labor. Saudi citizens are generallylaw-abiding, for they have good reason to be.

Criminal cases are adjudicatedrather quickly. Punishments aresevere and deterrent, most beingcarried out in public. Convictedmurderers are beheaded; adulterersare crushed with heavy stones.Thieves have their right handsamputated, although this punishmentis usually not inflicted for a first-time offense.

There is very little theft in the Kingdom, as there isvery little crime in general. Only traffic laws areconsistently violated, and most such infractions are ignoredby police. In any case, foreigners would do well to abide byall Saudi laws. Wrongdoing could lead to lengthyincarceration and/or deportation, perhaps even publicpunishment.

The cities of Saudi Arabia are now quite clean comparedto conditions in the past and to other cities in the region.In Riyadh, one vast improvement came in the early 1980s whenthe municipality covered the sewage canal which fronted onthe large market area of Batha.

Municipal authorities have more recently made headway inenforcing the use of trash containers in the residentialareas of the city. Currently, municipal sanitation crewspolice the main streets and public areas at dawn and removethe trash to authorized dumps. Were it not for theseefforts, the city areas would be extensively littered. Arabsin general are just beginning to understand the rationale forpublic sanitation. Many of them are still inclined to tossor deposit trash wherever it suits them. The attaché mayalso witness similar tendencies regarding human waste,especially in bivouac areas or cantonments where latrines areout of service for lack of maintenance.

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In the course of modernizing theKingdom, the Saudi governmentconstructed extensive waterworks.Consequently, there was a vastincrease in availability of water inurban areas. This service broughtabout new habits of personal hygiene.

Due to scarcity of water, the natives of inner Arabiahad to forego bathing or to use sand for that purpose. Waterwas conserved for drinking or performing the obligatoryablution prior to prayer. That ritual cleansing inculcatedsome hygienic practice, as it involves washing hands, feet,and genital area. However, natives now have the opportunityto bathe completely on a regular basis, and many have takento that custom.

Automotive and industrial pollution do not pose problemsfor the residents of Riyadh, yet there are otherenvironmental nuisances. Wind and occasional rain deposit aconsiderable amount of sand and dust, while sandstorms bringlarger quantities. Even with daily cleaning, surfaces insidebuildings quickly acquire a layering of reddish-brown dust.The strong winds which originate in distant regions alsobring in diseases.

The Saudis well recognize which elements of theenvironment can be controlled and which cannot. Themunicipality of Riyadh has prohibited the use of vehiclehorns in the vicinity of hospitals and other areas.Actually, Saudis are not inclined to use horns much, as areEgyptians and other Arabs. Consequently, the streets ofRiyadh are relatively quiet.

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d. Attitudes Toward Others Thecoastal areas of Arabia havethroughout history witnessed thearrival or passage of foreignmerchants and travelers. Theinterior, in contrast, has for longperiods been isolated. Prior to the“oil boom,” the inhabitants of innerArabia were very suspicious offoreigners.

That attitude has moderated somewhat over the last twodecades and, with some natives, has given way to curiosity.However, the original suspicion has been manipulated byopinion leaders who seek to instill the following belief.

As Muslims, the people of Saudi Arabia are superior toall non-Muslims. As Arabs, they are superior to all non-ArabMuslims. As Saudis, they are superior to all other Arabs.This attitude is consistent with both traditional notions oftribal nobility and new-founded notions of Saudi nationalism.However, it also derives form a defensive outlook on theKingdom’s demography.

Many educated Saudis indeed see themselves beingengulfed by hordes of foreign workers of variousnationalities. The propaganda of Saudi superiority serves tobolster self assurance, yet it complicates relations withforeigners.

Regarding Westerners, andAmericans in particular, thoserelations are further strained byambivalent attitudes. Saudis, likeother Arabs, admire the achievements ofWestern culture and the technicalexpertise of Westerners. At the sametime, they criticize Western culturefor its permissiveness and moraledepravity, and they see Westerners aslacking true intellection and truesalvation.

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A considerable number of Saudis have lived and studiedin the United States and Europe. Those who had favorableexperiences have become more tolerant of Western ways. Thosewho had problems have become hardened in their biases.

3. Restaurants and Hotels Most quality restaurants inSaudi Arabia are operated by non-Saudis and cater mainly toforeigners who work in the country. Thus, they are “foreign”restaurants serving mainly non-native food and have menus inboth Arabic and English. The prices can be very high, withevening meals usually costing 20 dollars or more. Unless asurcharge has been added to the bill, tipping is expected,with 15% being the norm. You will discover that your messhall serves food which is just as good and costs only aboutone-eighth as much.

Probably the best and mostinteresting meal to have in SaudiArabia is the traditional Saudi orBedouin-type meal which consists ofroasted meat, rice, and fruit--allserved on huge platters placed infront of you. Such meals are notserved in restaurants, but ratherin private homes and at outdoorgatherings, and you must be invitedto them.

Besides the restaurants, there are also numerous fast-food establishments in Riyadh--another consequence ofmodernization. Some bear the name of their Americanaffiliates. Others have local renown like Herfi, which isthe main burger chain. In any case, one finds manyestablishments which sell burgers (made from lamb), hotdogs,pizzas, and sandwiches. For enthusiasts of Arab culture,it’s best to seek advice from an experienced “Saudi hand”before taking meals at such establishments. They might haveinadequate kitchen hygiene, poor quality food, or both.

There is likewise a wide range of hotels in Riyadh. Thetop rated ones provide excellent service and amenities,although their rates are very expensive. Some of them serveas meeting places for local and foreign businessmen. Thelower rated hotels do not normally attract Americans, as they

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are often lacking in cleanliness, sanitation, or kitchenhygiene.

4. Shopping Shopping in Riyadhhas taken on many new dimensions inthe past decade. Besides the oldmarket areas, the city now hasnumerous modern markets forgroceries and general merchandise aswell as a few shopping malls withspecialty shops of all kinds.

Along with urban modernization, the tradition ofbargaining for price has in most cases disappeared. Thetraditional regard for religious duty has, however,persisted. All stores and shops close during prayer time,which lasts about 15 to 20 minutes. In largerestablishments, non-Muslim customers may remain inside,although they are actually locked-in. Depending on the timeof year, the morning shopping is interrupted once, and theevening shopping twice. As elsewhere in the region, Saudimarkets are closed in the afternoon.

The markets of Riyadh offer a wide variety ofmerchandise, although nearly all finished goods are imports.One can purchase good quality video, stereo, and cameraequipment at reasonable prices.

Home computerware is likewisereadily available and relativelyinexpensive, since Saudi merchantsimport IBM clones and compatibleperipherals. Western clothing isabundant but varies widely inquality. The well-made items areoverpriced. The cheaper items aregenerally not worth buying becausethey lack durability.

Among traditional Middle Eastern goods, copperwares arepriced much like clothing. As for Oriental rugs, SaudiArabia is not a good place to buy them--contrary to popularbelief. The high quality products cost more than they do inEngland and other countries. Expatriates were at one time

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able to buy excellent rugs from religious pilgrims who wouldbe transiting the Kingdom. However, local merchants havesince intervened to stop that practice.

In contrast, gold jewelry is a particularly good buy inSaudi Arabia. Besides the traditional “gold souk,” there arejewelry shops in various parts of Riyadh. One can selectfrom a wide variety of well-crafted pieces most of whichconsist of twenty karat gold. The price per ounce is set bythe government. However, the added value of the workmanshipleaves room for haggling, and one can still bargain over theprice of gold jewelry.

There are a number of large bookstores in Riyadh. These sell a widevariety of English-languagepublications books (fiction, non-fiction, and reference), manuals,magazines, newspapers, and maps.Some have order departments; however,certain titles are proscribed. Thewhole publishing industry issubjected to censorship.

Books are banned, and magazine articles are censured, iftheir contents are deemed to be morally or politicallyobjectionable.

There are modern supermarkets in almost every part ofRiyadh. These carry fresh meat, produce, and dairy productsas well as a wide variety of American and European foodproducts--in cans, jars, and packages, both dried and frozen.Prices for comparable items are generally higher than theyare in America.

Although you may have commissaries and PXs in which toshop, you or your wife will find it interesting to browsethrough the local stores for food or souvenirs. You willfind many small food markets in which to shop, and in citiessuch as Riyadh, Jidda and Khobar (near Dhahran), you will beable to shop in supermarkets. You should have no troublefinding interesting items to buy as souvenirs; there will beso many! Bargaining is accepted in most of the smallershops, but is not done in supermarkets. Local fresh produceis quite reasonable; however, as in most countries, importedgoods are always very expensive. Check on restrictions bySaudi Arabia of removing antiques and other items from thecountry.

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5. Telephone, Telegraph andMail Service Telephone service inSaudi Arabia is generally good,especially within and between majorcities. Government housing complexeshave telephones. Otherwise, theavailability of service varies.

Residents of some newer parts of Riyadh have had to waitmonths for lines to be laid in their area. The traveler willfind ample phones at the airport terminals and also atintervals along the main highways. Depending on thefacility, it may be possible to make direct and long distancecalls. When operator assistance is required, there may besome delay in getting through. Calls are billed on a usagebasis, and bills must be paid promptly to precludetermination of service. However, Saudi Arabia has justcompleted an intra-kingdom telephone system in which anyonecan call within the country on a commercial phone. Also,commercial, direct dial calls from the United States areavailable to a Saudi resident phone.

There is good commercial telegraph service between SaudiArabia and the United States. For official business, telexservice is available at the Embassy and the ConsulatesGeneral in Jidda and Dhahran.

APO mail service is available to all U.S. Embassy staffmembers and their dependents. It takes seven to ten days fordelivery of letters and packages sent either to or from theUnited States. Even so, this service is slightly faster thaninternational mail service, which may also be used. Allmail--even APO--is subject to Saudi customs inspections.Therefore, problems may arise if one is an addressee forcontraband or black-listed materials. Aside from mailservices, the State Department pouch may be used for shipmentof prescription medicines, eye glasses, and other healthitems.

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6. Domestic Help The Kingdomof Saudi Arabia did not abolishslavery until 1962. Prior to thattime, the wealthier Saudis usedslaves to perform menial householdchores and to assist in mindingchildren. Such functionssubsequently passed to foreignersemployed as domesticservants mostly people from poorcountries, such as Egypt, Sudan,Somalia, Ethiopia, Yemen,Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, andthe Philippines.

Male domestics are usually employed as drivers,gardeners, or houseboys. The latter attend to cleaning,washing and ironing clothes, cooking, and preparing tea andcoffee. Female domestics are usually employed as maids orbaby-sitters. Some household servants have live-inaccommodations, that is, separate rooms within the courtyardof the residence. Others come and go as required. Domesticservants are not treated “as Kin” unless they have worked forthe same family for a considerable length of time.

Wherever you are stationed in SaudiArabia, you may be provided with a maleservant who will clean your quarters andperform small jobs which you mightrequest. He will usually come in themorning and leave as soon as his work isdone. Except for a few Saudis who workin the Dhahran area, most of theseservants are from Yemen, the Sudan,Pakistan, or Thailand.

7. Home Security Except for driving hazards, SaudiArabia is one of the safest countries in the world. Theincidence of crime is very low. Terrorism has become more ofa problem in recent years. However, the most serious

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incidents have occurred in and around Mecca and on theopposite side of the peninsula, in the Eastern Province.Riyadh has not been seriously threatened, nor have anyAmericans been targeted.

There have been some rareincidents of invasion of homeprivacy. These usually involveArab men watching or otherwiseharassing Western women. Thewomen themselves can thwart suchvoyeurs and prowlers by lockingthe outer doors of the house orapartment, drawing the drapes overthe windows, and calling the localsecurity guard.

8. Entertainment and Recreation As Saudi lifeconforms to the strictures of Wahhabi Islam, there are nopublic cinemas, theaters, opera houses, or concert halls inthe Kingdom.

American, British, and other European expatriates havefrom time to time organized musical and theatrical groups,and these have performed at various foreign-managed compoundsin and around Riyadh. Some government programs offerdiversion, but mainly for enthusiasts of archeology and folkculture. The Museum of Antiquities in central Riyadh isworth visiting, as are the various “open” archeological sitesthroughout the Kingdom. In contrast, the Bedouin CultureExhibit, located to the east of Riyadh, appears veryartificial.

For radio entertainment, one canpickup various English broadcasts inRiyadh. The English service of theSaudi radio system broadcasts sixhours daily, offering news, music,features, and talk shows. TheEnglish radio service in neighboringBahrain offers similar programmingfor 14 hours daily. Althoughreception is not always good, Voiceof America, Armed Forces Radio, andBBC can also be heard.

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The Saudi television network telecasts on a Europeanstandard. American standard TV sets will not pick-up thesignal; however, multisystem sets can be purchased locally.Saudi TV operates one channel in Arabic and one in English.The Arabic channel offers news, religious programs, talkshows, some sports, educational features, cartoons dubbed inArabic, and some movies--mostly of the Walt Disney type.

The English channel offerssimilar family-oriented programs--cartoons, situation comedies, andspecial features. All programs arecensured in accordance with theKingdom’s strict moral code. Only afew current American TV shows andmovies are allowed for publicviewing.

Home video entertainment has become very popular inSaudi Arabia. Shops in Riyadh sell a wide variety ofrecorders, and there are video rental outlets in many partsof the city. It is not advisable to bring in tapes throughthe airport unless one has time to spend on the premises.All tapes are reviewed as part of customs clearance. It ispossible to avoid such inconvenience by using the StateDepartment pouch, which is authorized for shipment of videotapes.

For Americans in Riyadh, tennis and swimming areprobably the most popular recreational sports. There aretennis courts at the U.S. Embassy, Office of the ProjectManager--Saudi Arabian National Guard (OPM-SANG) and JointEconomic Commission Riyadh (JECOR) compounds and also atnumerous private recreational facilities. Serious playerscan join the Riyadh Tennis League and participate intournaments throughout the year.

Swimming pools are numerous, being located at recreationcenters, residence compounds, and villas. Despite the lack

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of deep water, there is a scuba club in Riyadh which arrangesfor training and periodic dives at Jidda.

As for other American pastimes, jogging can beproblematic. Some natives are contemptuous of the activity,while others are offended at the sight of scantily-cladpeople. It is best to stay away from traffic and wear fulllength jogging suits at least within the city. Equestrianenthusiasts can go horseback riding or take riding lessons atRiyadh stables. For less demanding exercise, one can choosebowling or golf. There are numerous bowling alleys in theRiyadh area and leagues sponsored by the U.S. Army Corps ofEngineers and JECOR. There is an 18-hole golf course locatednear the airport, and its club membership fees are relativelyinexpensive. Regarding team sports, one can participate inorganized basketball, softball, and volleyball leagues.There are few spectator sports in the Kingdom--mostly soccermatches and horse races.

Clearly, the biggest event is the annual camel race,which is held at a site east of Riyadh.

Many Westerners enjoy making day trips or camping in thesemi-desert areas around Riyadh. An organization called thedesert Ramblers meets regularly to exchange information ondesert travel and arrange outings. The land of inner Arabiais not without natural beauty or diversion. One can climbthe escarpment to the east of Riyadh or search for fossils,“desert diamonds” (which are actually quartz crystals), orancient inscriptions on rocks. Some large water holes in theRiyadh area serve as picnic sites. Other attractions includethe oasis area of al-Kharj and the old (now ruined) Saudistronghold of Diriyya.

Like entertainment, groupsocial activity in Riyadh is ratherlimited. There are someorganizations which do promote suchendeavors. The Riyadh InternationalWomen’s Group, for example, sponsorscoffees, luncheons, and eveningaffairs. It also providesinformation on cooking, gardening,and other such pastimes.

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For children, there are movie matinees on Thursday andFriday afternoons at the JECOR, OPM-SANG, and Corps ofEngineers compounds.

9. Conclusion The above guidelines are...more or less...true, just as the American tendency to “get straight down tobusiness” is more or less true. We have learned only theAmerican options. There are many other equally viableoptions. We have to keep this in mind when associating withother people in the world.

a. Areas of Adjustment The newly arriving attaché canquickly become alienated by the strangeness of Saudi Arabia.Aside from differences in architecture, customs, andclothing, he will be affected by many subtle impressions thatlife is not the same as he knew it. His work week begins onSaturday, Thursday and Friday being the weekend. He hearsthe Islamic call to prayer broadcast five times daily, yet hefinds no church in the Kingdom. Moreover, Christmas andEaster are not among the official holidays. When in searchof entertainment, he finds no baseball parks, footballstadiums, movie theaters, nightclubs, or casinos.

Such experiences aredisconcerting and may eventually leadto extreme resentment of the nativesand their lifestyle. To preclude thatdevelopment, one should stay busy atwork and spend leisure time onsomething familiar and satisfying,that is, a hobby or some otherpastime.

In other words, do not allow time for negative thoughtsabout life in the Kingdom. As the weeks and months go by,the once strange milieu becomes more familiar and lessunsettling.

b. Culture Shock Be alert for culture shock systemsin yourself and others around you. When someone startsswearing at others, saying they are too stupid to learn, orcrude people...culture shock is there. That person is havingdifficulty “getting through” to people using his own learnedpattern and has not adapted his patterns.

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While stationed in Saudi Arabia, it is a good idea tofind a hobby and cultivate it, since the country has fewtourist attractions and little opportunity for entertainment.You may well be stationed in a place, such as Riyadh orDhahran, where there are many facilities set up to meet theneeds of American service personnel.

But, on the other hand, youmight end up in an area where thereare few, if any, Americans andlimited recreational facilities.In such a case, a hobby willgreatly help pass the time.

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Review Quiz: Community and Homelife

Fill in the blanks Fill in the blanks with the mostcorrect word listed at the bottom. Not all words listed willbe used.

When in public in Saudi Arabia, it is inappropriate to

demonstrate (1) __________________ for a sponsor or friend of

the opposite sex. Also, openly expressing

(2) _______________ or cursing can be grounds for

incarceration.

Pet (3) _________ are considered unclean according to

Muslim law.

In Saudi Arabian society, age is considered a sign of

(4) ____________, respect and (5) _______________. Older

people are listened to and asked to give advice.

Saudi religious morality (6) _____________ enforce

Islamic mores within society.

Many Saudis associate the (7) ____________________ with

the “evil eye.” Do not photograph (8) ________________, (9)

______________________ and government/military installations.

Saudi attitudes to Americans could best be described as

(10) ___________________.

camera dignity anger post officesairports ambivalent hostile affectionpolice wisdom dogs cats

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“Great leaders produce great subordinates, who, in turn,become great leaders in their own time...Your legacy will bethe men and women you touch. We will all be judged by oursuccesses and our successors’ successes. We will be judgedby how well they fight, and whether in fact they protect anddefend this Republic...The single most important contribution

we make is in developing our subordinates. Our enduringlegacy to the Army and the nation is the training of

tomorrow’s leaders.”General Gordon R. Sullivan