U Z HL400 Hairiness

8/10/2019 U Z HL400 Hairiness

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S. Dnmez Kretzschmar, T. NasiouSeptember 2011SE 663

USTERZWEIGLE HL400

APPLICATION REPORT

Different applications ofhairiness length classification

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
http://content_zweigle.pdf/


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Editorial Team:

Ellen LiuR. Nellaiappan

Gabriela PetersDr. Serap Dnmez KretzschmarThomas Nasiou

Copyright 2011 by Uster Technologies AG. All rights reserved.

All and any information contained in this document is non-binding. The supplier reserves the right to modify the

products at any time. Any liability of the supplier for damages resulting from possible discrepancies between this

document and the characteristics of the products is explicitly excluded.

veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-Line\Zweigle\SE-663_Different applications of hairiness length classification


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Contents

1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 4

2 Influence on hair iness ........................................................................................................ 5

3 Trials ................................................................................................................................... 6

3.1

Trial methodology ................................................................................................................. 6

3.2 The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mill) ................................................................. 7

3.3

The impact of twist (German spinning mill) ........................................................................... 8

3.4 The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mills) ....................................... 9

3.5

Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinning mill) .............. 11

3.6 Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compacting zone(Chinese and Indian spinning mills) .................................................................................... 12

3.7 Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and German spinning mill)14

4

Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 15

5 Literature ........................................................................................................................... 15


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1 Introduction

The two hairiness systems USTERand Zweigle have been on the market for more than 20 years.

Both are well established systems and both are now available from Uster Technologies.

The systems provide complementary data and both are needed in any spinning mill interested in op-timizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency. The USTERprinciple is ideally suited asindustry benchmarks, the USTERSTATISTICS. The Zweigle principle provides further valuable data

in the laboratory which, along with the USTER laboratory data, allows for a complete analysis andoptimization of efficiency in a spinning mill. The USTERZWEIGLE HL400and the USTERTESTER

5with OH module provide the comprehensive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing

requirements.

Table 1 shows a comparison of both measuring methods.

Comparison of two measuring systems

Measuring Principle Measuring Principle

USTERTESTER 5 USTER

ZWEIGLE HL400

The protruding fibers produce a scattered light in the measuringzone.

The yarn body is not transparent and appears as a black line onthe receiver side

The length of the measuring zone is 10 mm

The hairiness H is equal to the total length of the protrudingfibers in the measuring zone of 10 mm

The system is based on counting the individual fibers and their

respective lengths which protrude from the yarn body

The length classes are 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10 mm (numberof protruding fibers per 100 m)

The most popular value is S3, which is the sum of all fibers3 mm and longer per 100 m.

The HL400 automatically identifies the yarn body and cali-

brates itself before each measurement The HL400 uses the same measuring principle of the Zwei-

gle G567 and the USTERZWEIGLE HAIRINESS TESTER

5

Appl ication range and benef its o f Sensor OH (inte-

grated in the UT5)

Appl ication range and benef its of Hai riness

length classif ication HL400

Comparison with benchmarks including USTERSTATISTICS

Yarn profiling and yarn trading

Identifies periodical faults

Continuously monitors mill hairiness levels

Early warning system in production

Indicator of hand/feel of a finished product

Yarn engineering

Control of new spinning machine settings

Overall maintenance of spinning machines, especiallycompact spinning systems

Identifies long protruding fibers which cause pilling

Allows weavers and knitters to get an idea how yarn willperform in production along with its effects on consumableparts

Monitoring of the life cycle of ring travelers

Table 1 Comparison of two measuring systems


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2 Influence on hairiness

The hairiness length classification gives valuable information, especially in regard to the overall per-

formance level of the compacting system, as well as the hairiness variation from spindle to spindle orfrom spinning position to spinning position (OE rotor and airjet spinning). For example, excessive fly in

the spinning department could lead to clogged filters, which results a compacting system with lowercompacting efficiency. When this happens to a section of the spinning machine, especially the valuefor the longer fibers, i.e. the S3 value, will be affected. The number of longer fibers will increase ac-

cordingly. The USTERZWEIGLE HL400is a vital instrument for monitoring and controlling the over-all performance level of the compacting system at the ring spinning frame.

InTable 2,the origin of faults in various yarn production stages related to excessive hairiness andhairiness variations is given.

EXCESSIVE HAIRINESSOrigin of Faults Possible Reasons

Raw material Fiber length

Length uniformity

Excessive short fiber content

Spinning preparation, spinning and winding Roving twist

Age and type of rings & ring travelers (ring spinning)

Damaged or worn travelers

Improper traveler weights

Traveler changes

Condition of rings

Eccentricity of spindles & rings

Spinning tension (ring spinning)

Yarn twist

Slipping spindle belts

Damaged pigtail guides

Improperly centered pigtail guides

Full bobbin diameter

Yarn twist

Separator slap

Improperly positioned or missing anti-balloon rings

Spindle speed

Spindle speed curve

Damaged cots

Variation of spinning climate

Table 2 The origin of faults related to excessive hairiness and hairiness variations


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The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster

Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The most striking features

of the new USTERZWEIGLE HL400are its speed and the guaranteed USTERaccuracy.

This application report aims to explain the hairiness length classification system and its application in

order to be able to fully understand this method and use it at its full extent.

3 Trials

3.1 Trial methodology

As it is mentioned previously, the hairiness length classification gives valuable information about the

overall performance level of the compacting system, as well as the impact of various spinning ma-chine elements on the hairiness variation. In order to demonstrate these relationships, 34 different,100% cotton, combed, compact yarns of various yarn counts, in forms of bobbins were specially pro-duced at different spinning mills in China, India and Germany.

All the samples were tested with the USTERZWEIGLE HL400and the USTERTESTER 5with OH

module at the Uster Technologies Textile Laboratory and the test results were evaluated and demon-

strated with the help of tables and graphs. In all tables, 8 mm and 10 mm hairiness length classes areomitted, because in most cases, there were only a few protruding fibers at these classes. Most of theapplication samples show a comparison of a specially produced test yarn illustrating various faults

and a reference yarn.


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3.2 The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mil l)

Yarn count affects many physical yarn parameters as well as hairiness. As it is well-known, the hairi-

ness of coarse yarns is higher than the hairiness of fine yarns, because the probability of protrudingfibers is higher with more fibers in the cross-section. In order to show the relationship between yarn

count and hairiness, three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 32, Ne 50 and Ne 80 in forms of

bobbins were produced at a Chinese spinning mill. The test results (Table 3)and related figures (Fig.1 andFig. 2)are given below.

Yarn Count(Ne)

Nominaltwist[1/m]*

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H sh

Chinesespinningmill

Fine yarn 80 1352 2375 286 33 7 0 40 2.03 0.46

Medium yarn 50 1103 3578 462 47 11 1 59 2.30 0.53

Coarse yarn 32 855 5726 825 91 25 2 118 2.95 0.67

Table 3 The USTERZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER

TESTER 5 hairiness results

*[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 1 The USTERZWEIGLE HL400 test results

(S3 values per 100m)

Fig. 2 The USTERTESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:

The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 3)the hairiness of coarse yarns is higher than thehairiness of fine yarns. InFig. 1,Ne 32 has the highest and Ne 80 has the lowest number of protrud-

ing number of fibers. Hairiness results of the USTERTESTER 5are also showing the same trend(Fig. 2). This result will also show up if the twist is kept constant.


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3.3 The impact of twis t (German spinning mil l)

The amount of twist placed in a staple spun yarn is important from

a technical viewpoint because of its effect on physical propertiesand performance, and on finished product appearance. It has an

effect on fabric luster, hand, weight and strength. It is also im-portant from a production standpoint because with every turn of

twist there is an accompanying reduction in productivity and an

increase in cost. The reduction of twist increases the hairinessbecause the number of protruding fibers increases. At the sametime the yarn hairiness can be reduced to a certain extent by in-

creasing the twist.

Fig. 3 Yarns with S-twist and Z-twist

However, there are limitations or specific requirements concerning the twist or the twist multiplier inregard of the end-use of a fabric.

In order to show the relationship between twist and hairiness, three different yarns, Ne 24, 100% cot-ton, combed, in forms of bobbins were produced and tested. The test results (Table 4) and relatedfigures (Fig. 4 andFig. 5)are given below:

Yarn Count(Ne)

Twist[1/m]*

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H sh

Twistvalues

Low 24 727 10859 1727 213 60 4 277 4.97 1.20

Medium 24 822 9711 1452 165 43 3 211 4.67 1.10

High 24 917 9323 1348 138 41 3 181 4.53 1.06



*[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 4 The USTERZWEIGLE HL400 test results

(S3 values)

Fig. 5 The USTERTESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:

The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 4)the increase of twist decreases the hairiness be-cause the number of protruding fibers decreases. InFig. 4,the yarn with the lowest twist value (727[1/m]) has the highest and the yarn with the highest twist value (917 [1/m]) has the lowest number of

protruding fibers (Fig. 4). Hairiness results of the USTER TESTER 5 are also showing the same

trend (Fig. 5), low twist yarn has a hairiness value of 4.97 and high twist yarn has a hairiness value of4.53.


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3.4 The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mil ls)

In recent years, several investigations have been car-

ried out on the impact of the ring traveller and specifi-cally its weight on various yarn parameters. In many

studies, was observed that yarn hairiness generally de-creased as the traveller weight was increased, regard-

less of the traveler profile or the travelers finishing.

To demonstrate the relationship between travelerweight and hairiness, two different, 100% cotton, com-

pact yarns, Ne 40 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins wereproduced at an Indian and a Chinese spinning mill. The

test results (Table 5)and related figures (Fig. 7 andFig.

8)are given below.

Fig. 6 The impact of traveller weight [1]

YarnCount(Ne)

Nomialtwist[1/m]

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H sh

Chinesespinningmill

MachineB

Heaviertraveller(3/0)

40 850 5977 935 118 33 2 153 2.97 0.68

Reference

traveller(4/0)

40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Lightertraveller(6/0)

40 850 6926 1228 193 55 5 253 3.07 0.71

Indianspinningmill

MachineB

Heaviertraveller(18/0)

100 1600 3890 502 70 16 1 86 2.18 0.55

Referencetraveller(20/0)

100 1600 4139 532 59 14 1 74 2.16 0.55

Lightertraveller(22/0)

100 1600 4062 569 59 16 1 76 2.15 0.54




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Fig. 7 The USTERZWEIGLE HL400

(Percentage values of S3 results)

Fig. 8 The USTERTESTER 5

(Percentage values of H results)

Conclusion:

The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 5)the increase of traveller weight decreases the hair-

iness because the number of protruding fibers decreases. With Nec100 and because of the reducednumber of fibers in the yarn cross-section, the hairiness difference is not significant anymore, moreo-ver because the yarns are compact. InFig. 7,in both yarn counts, the samples produced with a lighter

traveller have the highest hairiness. As an example, regarding that the S3 value of Ne 40 yarn pro-duced with reference traveller (4/0) is equal to 100%, the sample yarn produced with a lighter traveller

(6/0) will be 151% (Fig. 7,blue color). This is also valid for the USTERTESTER 5results (Fig. 8).


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3.5 Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinningmill)

Fig. 9 demonstrates an off-centered roving guide. This faultaffects yarn spinning triangle and accordingly compact

spinning process in a negative way.

In order to show the impact of off-centered rovingguideonthe yarn hairiness, two different 100% cotton, compact

yarns, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were pro-duced at an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a

reference yarn is compared with a test compact yarn which

illustrates off-centered roving guide fault. The test results(Table 6)and related figures (Fig. 10 andFig. 11)are givenbelow.

Fig. 9 Impact of off-centered roving guide

Yarn Count(Ne)

Nomialtwist[1/m]

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H sh

Indianspinningmill

MachineA

Referenceyarn

80 1350 6455 750 79 18 1 98 2.60 0.63

Test yarn 80 1350 7588 990 132 28 2 162 2.88 0.71

MachineB

Referenceyarn

100 1600 3664 468 55 13 1 69 2.06 0.51

Test yarn 100 1600 4554 703 82 23 2 108 2.24 0.57



Fig. 10 S3 difference (%) between the test yarn

and the reference yarn

Fig. 11 H and sh differences (%) between the

test yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion:

Test results (Table 6)show that the test yarns which were produced with off-centered guide have

more number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length

class. For example, the reference yarn has only 98 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn producedat the machine type A has 162 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 6,Machine A), which showsan increase of 65% (Table 7,Fig. 10,Machine A). The same trend can be also observed in USTER

TESTER 5results, for the same test yarn, the hairiness (H) difference is 11% and (sh) difference is+13% (Table 6, Fig. 11,Machine A).


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3.6 Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compact-ing zone (Chinese and Indian spinning mills)

During compact yarn production, the air suction area(Fig. 12) in the compacting zone can become clogged

for a variety of reasons. This affects the spinning pro-

cess in a negative way.

To demonstrate the impact of clogged compacting zone

and clogged compacting elements, four different 100%cotton, compact yarns, Ne 40, Ne 40, Ne 80 and Ne

100, in forms of bobbins were produced at a Chinese

and an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a ref-erence yarn is compared with a test compact yarnwhich illustrates a clogged compacting zone or a com-

pacting element. The test results (Table 7 and relatedfigures (Fig. 13 andFig. 14)are given below.

Fig. 12 Impact of clogged compacting zone

YarnCount(Ne)

Nominaltwist[1/m]

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H sh

Cloggedcompactingelement

Chinesespinningmill

MachineB

Referenceyarn

40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Test yarn 40 850 7663 1384 185 61 5 252 3.34 0.74

Cloggedcompactingzone

Chinesespinningmill

MachineB

Referenceyarn

40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Test yarn 40 850 9331 1901 317 108 11 437 3.77 0.83

Indianspinningmill

MachineA

Referenceyarn

80 1338 4994 455 42 7 0 50 2.46 0.60

Test yarn 80 1338 8462 1532 263 75 7 345 3.30 0.93

MachineB

Referenceyarn

100 1600 3846 532 53 15 1 68 2.07 0.52

Test yarn 100 1600 6555 1162 132 51 5 188 2.41 0.58




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Fig. 13 S3 difference (%) between the test yarn

and the reference yarn

Fig. 14 H (red) differences (%) between the test

yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion:

Test results (Table 7)show that the compact yarn produced with a clogged compact zone has morenumber of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class.

For example, the reference yarn Ne 80 has only 50 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn produced

at the machine type A has 345 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 7,Machine A, Indian spin-ning mill), which shows an increase of 590% (Table 7,Fig. 13,Ne 80, Machine A, Indian spinning

mill). The same trend can be also observed in the USTERTESTER 5results, for the same test yarn,the hairiness (H) difference is +34% and (sh) difference is +55% (Fig. 14,Ne 80, Machine A, Indianspinning mill). As we have mentioned previously, both systems provide complementary data. This is a

perfect example for this. In addition to numerical values, the spectrogram of the USTER TESTER 5

shows a more intensive influence on the hairiness periodicity at 5 to 7 m depending on the ring spin-ning machine type. This periodicity is caused by the ring rail movement (Fig. 15 andFig. 16).

Fig. 15 Reference yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning

mill, Machine A)

Fig. 16 Impact of clogged compacting zone:

Test yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning mill,

Machine A)


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3.7 Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and Germanspinning mill )

In aerodynamic compacting systems, the compacting process of the fiber strand takes place with helpof the perforated drums or aprons. Perforated drums or aprons generate airflow from outside into theinterior of the drum. The air current generated by the vacuum in the perforated drum enables the fi-bers to be compacted efficiently following the main draft. For this reason, the amount of suction pres-

sure is very important for the compacting process. A decrease in the suction pressure can affect hair-

iness properties of the yarn [2]. In order to demonstrate the impact of air suctionon the yarn hairiness,three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were pro-

duced. The test results are given below (Table 8, Fig. 17 andFig. 18).

YarnCount(Ne)

Nomialtwist[1/m]

1

mm

2

mm

3

mm

4

mm

6

mm

S3 H Sh

Germanspinningmill

MachineC

-5 mb sucti on 20 728 14411 2388 357 101 9 467 5.00 1.18

- 25 mb suction 20 728 16040 2720 469 146 13 629 5.40 1.28

MachineA

Referencesuction

80 1338 5128 638 92 20 1 113 2.33 0.58

Low suction 80 1338 5390 977 150 51 5 206 2.82 0.81

Indianspinningmill

MachineB

Normal suction 100 1600 4536 600 84 21 1 106 2.25 0.58

Lower suctionmotor power

100 1600 5577 821 121 29 2 151 2.21 0.58



Fig. 17 The USTERZWEIGLE HL400 test results(S3 values)

Fig. 18 The USTERTESTER 5 test results(H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion:

In this trial, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, 100% compact yarns were produced and a reference compact

yarn is compared to a test compact yarn which is produced with less suction. Test results (Table 8)show that the yarn produced with is produced with less suction has more number of protruding fibers

nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class (Fig. 17 and Fig. 18). Thesame trend can be seen at the USTERTESTERfor the hairiness value.

As a result of a reduced number of fibers in the yarn cross-section of the fine yarn Ne 100 with mostlydifferent raw material the hairiness difference is not significant anymore.


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4 Conclusion

A precise analysis of yarn hairiness is vital for many textile applications, as hairiness has a significant

influence on both the appearance and durability of fabrics, as well as an impact on the productivityand efficiency of subsequent processing stages. It is a fact that 15% of unacceptable fabric defects,

for example pilling, are caused by hairiness variations. The two hairiness systems described in thispaper have been on the market for more than 20 years. Both are well established systems and bothare now available from Uster Technologies. The measurement of USTERand Zweigle hairiness sys-

tems allow yarn producers to be in full control of the yarn quality.

The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster

Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The system offers the S3value, the numbers of protruding fibers at 3 mm and longer, which is the main quality benchmark forcompact-spun yarn. The most striking feature of the new USTERZWEIGLE HL400is its speed. The

system operates at 400 m/min, compared to the 50 m/min throughput of the previous Zweigle system.The USTERZWEIGLE HL400has a fix testing speed of 400 m/min which is 8 times faster than the

previous standard of 50 m/min. The customer benefit is faster reaction to test results, because tests of

10 cones need less than 15 min instead of 60 min with the current generation. The USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 fits therefore well in the testing cycle of an USTER TESTER and USTERTENSORAPIDor USTERTENSOJET.

The USTER principle is ideally suited as industry benchmarks, the USTER STATISTICS. TheZweigle principle provides further valuable data in the laboratory which, along with the USTERlabor-

atory data, allows for a complete analysis and optimization of efficiency in a spinning mill.

The USTERZWEIGLE HL400and the USTERTESTER 5with OH module provide the comprehen-

sive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing requirements and both are needed in anyspinning mill interested in optimizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency.

5 Literature

1. Lawrence, C.,A. (Editor), Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, Woodhead Publishing Lim-ited,2010.

2. Singh R.P., V K Kothari, Different technologies to spin compact yarns, The Indian Textile Jour-

nal, August 2007.3. Lawrence, C.,A., Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, CRC Press LLC, 2003.

4. Lord, P. R., Handbook of Yarn Production: Technology, Science and Economics, Woodhead

Publishing Limited, 2005.

5. USTERZWEIGLE HL400Application Handbook: Hairiness length classification, V1.1, 470104-40020, June 2011.

6. USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER 5Application Handbook: Twist measurement, V1.0, 621106-04020, September 2009


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