Twister (5ft) Climbing Frame Instruction Manual

Parts List

Item Number

Description Image Quantity

1 3m post cut at 40° angle

4

2 Spiral Slide

1

3 8ft Cargo Net

1

4 1280mm post

2

5 1460mm x 1010 mm roof panel

2

6 6” x 1” small board for roof

2

7 6” x 1” large board for roof

2

8 1460mm x 1460mm base

1

9 1280mm x 3” x 1.5” timber

2

10 1460mm 3” x 1.5” timber

5

11 Railings

Open Railing

Closed Railing

4 (3 open, 1 closed as standard)

12 Decking screws

200

13 200mm index screws

16

14 120mm screws

20

15 Set of steps

1

16 Screw covers

20

17 Tube Slide

1

Other components included: Handgrips, telescope, steering wheel.

Tools needed:

• Cordless drill

• Handsaw

• Spirit Level

• Hammer

• Shovel

• Stepladder

• Pencil

• Measuring tape

• 10mm Hex bit

• PZ 2 Drill Bit

Ground Preparation

1. Lay out the base (8) and slides (2, 17) in the position that you intend the climbing frame to

be placed. Ensure the base is parallel of any buildings, fences etc. that you are wishing to

match in with. This will give you the size of the footprint the frame will take up in the

garden.

2. Allow for at least 1.8m clearance beyond the end of the slide and 1.2m clearance for the

steps and cargo net.

3. Once you are happy that the layout is correct, remove the slides.

4. Mark out clearly the centre of all 4 cut outs of the base. Once these are marked you can lift

the bases out of your way and then dig your holes.

5. If the climbing frame is on a level surface, then dig the 4 holes at a diameter of 12” and

depth 12”. The tricky part is when the surface is uneven; in this case you would have to

compensate for the slope by making some holes deeper or shallower than others (minimum

depth of 10”). The bottoms of all 4 holes need to be level.

Assembly Instructions

All components needed during the assembly are numbered with reference to the parts list, please

refer back to the parts list to ensure you are assembling the correct components for each step.

Step 1: ‘H-Frame’ Assembly

• Lay 2 3m posts that are cut at a 40° angle on a level surface

• Ensure the cut angle is facing the same way on both posts and the holes are on the outside

Step 2:

• Place the 1280mm 4” x 4” post between the 2 longer posts and line up with the 32mm holes

about halfway down the posts. Screw the posts together on both sides using the 200mm

index screws. Use 2 screws for each 32mm hole

Step 3:

• Make a mark 2400mm (2.4m) from the top of both 3m posts. If your frame has a picnic or

sandpit picnic table, add a second mark to each post 2100mm down from the top of the

post

• Using a piece of 1460mm 3” x 1.5” timber and the 65mm decking screws, screw the timber

to the 3m posts at the 2.4m mark you made on the posts (this is to strengthen the H-frame

structure, without this additional support at the bottom the frame will twist once it is lifted

up)

• This will be removed at the end of the end of the installation

Step 4:

• Place another 1460mm 3” x 1.5” timber on the 40° angle on the top of the post and screw

into place using the 65mm decking screws

• Steps 3 and 4 strengthen the H-frame structure, without this additional support at the top

and bottom, the frame will twist once it is lifted up

Step 5:

• Repeat steps 1-4 for the 2nd H-frame

Step 6: (Requires heavy lifting, please use at least 2 people)

• Lift both ‘H’-frames into the holes that have been cut out in the ground

• Make sure the ‘H’-frames are orientated correctly (to ensure that the roof will be able to

rest on the tops)

Step 7:

• Using 2 pieces of 1280mm x 3” x 1.5” timber, connect the two H-frames together using

decking screws

• These pieces of timber will also be removed at the end of the installation

Step 8: Base Assembly

• The structure should now be able to stand on its own

• Lift the base and place it onto the two horizontal posts. The 3” x 1.5” base supports should

sit onto the horizontal posts

• Secure the base to the posts using the 120mm screws provided. They should be screwed

directly into the base down into the 4” x 4” horizontal posts

Step 9: Railings Assembly

• There are 4 railings per tower. The open ones are for the rope bridge, steps, fireman’s pole,

monkey bars and slide; the closed ones are for the rock wall, cargo net and swing module.

Ensure to fit the railings in their correct positions depending on the desired layout of the

frame. They should fit tightly into place between the upright posts and on the base

• The ‘double’ timbers on the railings should be on top and the single timber should be at the

bottom

• Secure the bottom rail to the base using the decking screws

• For the two sides with 4” x 4” posts with the 3” x 1.5” base supports sitting on them, the

decking screws should be screwed in from beneath at an angle between each of the 3” x

1.5” base supports

Step 10:

• To secure each railing to the upright posts, screw through the upright posts to the railing

using the 120mm screws (2 into each 32mm hole)

Step 11:

• Repeat steps 9 and 10 for each railing

Step 12: Roof Assembly

• Place one of the 1460mm x 1010mm roof panels directly onto the ground (so that the

shingled part is facing downwards)

• Using the ‘v’ boards provided assemble the two roof panels together using decking screws

Step 13:

• Lift the roof onto the climbing frame and ensure it is positioned evenly on all sides before

securing the roof to the top of the post using 2 x decking screws for each 2” x 1” support of

the roof panel

• Secure the middle roof panel support from below and the side supports from above

Step 14: Screw Cover Assembly

• Press the screw covers into each of the 32mm holes on the 4 vertical posts that make up the

H-Frame and the swing frame post

Step 15: Cargo net Assembly

• Place the cargo net onto the top of the railing

• Using the 120mm screws provided screw the cargo net into the top rail

Step 16: Steps Assembly

• The steps might have to be cut or dug into place (depending on the slope of your surface)

• They are secured using decking screws through the top and sides of the steps into the base

of the tower. Again ensure these holes are well pre-drilled to avoid splitting. The holes and

screws will have to be angled to the surface of the steps

Step 17: Slide Assembly

• Follow separate assembly instructions for tube slide

Step 18: Slide Assembly

• Using 2 decking screws, secure the slide to the bottom timber of an open railing through the

pre-drilled holes in the slide

Step 19: Concreting structure

• Using postcrete and following the manufacturer’s instructions, concrete all the posts into

the ground

• The frame should be left overnight before it is used to ensure the postcrete has dried.

Step 20: Removing the H-Frame supports

• Remove the lower H-Frame supports that were added during steps 3 and 7

The final stage is to put on the accessories, give everything a good sand down to avoid the children

getting splinters from any rough edges. All screws should also be checked to ensure they are flush to

the surface they are securing.

Maintaining Your Climbing Frame

My climbing frame has been installed, what do I do next? A: If your climbing frame was installed in a grassed area the installers have concreted the frame into the ground. They have left a small exposed hole, where the posts have been sunk into the ground. The reason this has been done is to allow the concrete to set overnight. Before allowing the children to play on the climbing frame, please ensure that the sods of grass have been replaced over the holes to leave the ground flush around the posts. Please do not allow your children to play on the climbing frame until the sods of grass have been put back. Q: How should I maintain my Climbing Frame? A: There are many customers whose Climbing frames last for years as a result of simple steps taken to ensure the wood's longevity. The timber used on your climbing frame has been pressure treated.

This essentially means that it has been put into a pressurised vessel and has been impregnated with wood preserve. With time and due exposure to weather conditions the colour fades away. We suggest you treat the wood once every 2 years (completely optional). Not only will this keep it looking ‘lively’ but will also help it last as long as possible. Q: What kind of stain should I use? A: We used a water-based treatment when we made the products. You can use a water-based or oil-based stain at your discretion. However, once you switch to oil you will not be able to return to water-based from that point forward. Your local home improvement, hardware or DIY store will have plenty of options and suggestions for you. Q: What else should I do? A: We suggest you check bolt tightness and all hardware periodically to ensure everything is in proper order.

We hope you enjoyed the challenge of the build and hope the children get years of enjoyment out of

their new frame.

Team NICF.