Turkey 2005 Hekatesia Report

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    PFI Turkey - Hekatesia 2005

    Once upon a time. well tis really !oes soun! like a "airytale come true. In #eptem$er 200%

    I met a Turkis !ance stu!ent at one o" our &itces ca"es. One tin' lea! to anoter an! at(ule I met a 'irl"rien! o" is wo li)es in Istan$ul. &e catte! an! en!e! up a)in' tis

    won!er"ul i!ea o" settin' up PFI Turkey. *any ours o" Instant *essa'in' an! emailin'

    ensue! $ut $y Fe$ruary we a! a we$site in Turkis+ www.tr.pa'an"e!eration.or'

    ,urin' our con)ersation I a! epresse! an interest in )isitin' Turkey an! teneris /ust

    appene! to mention some "esti)als+ wic are still cele$rate! in Turkey tat are not

    particularly Islamic. ow I soul! mention imme!iately tat Turkey is secular an! tere is

    complete separation $etween state an! reli'ion. t least tis is teir )ision an! in many

    respects Turkey is "ar more secular tan most western so-calle! !emocracies+ $ut tat is

    anoter story1

    ut to ear o" pa'an "esti)als still $ein' cele$rate! was new to me an! o" course I wante! toear more. teneris mentione! one )ery small )illa'e "esti)al $ein' el! near to te site o"

    te Temple o" Hekate+ 3a'ina. 3a'ina is not well known partly $ecause eca)ations a)e only

    $een restarte! recently 4 in 666. Te "irst eca)ations were ma!e in te later 7008s.

    I epresse! interest an! so se starte! makin' in9uiries. "ter many monts o" meetin's wit

    local arcaeolo'ists+ te mayor o" te )illa'e+ tour 'ui!es an! istorians+ plus $ookin' "li'ts

    an! arran'in' accommo!ation Flora+ an! I met in o!rum+ &estern Turkey.

    Our "irst "ew !ays were spent in )isitin' te local attractions in o!rum or Halicarnassus

    :o!rum;s ancient name

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    &e were later /oine! $y our 'uests "rom te @A an! ma!e a return /ourney to )isit te

    won!er"ul Temple comple at >pesus. #emi our tour 'ui!e on tis particular occasion tol!

    us muc a$out Turkis an! natolian istory. He also tol! us a$out te Hellenisation o"

    Turkey an! te settlement o" Breeks in tis area+ wic eplains wy many o" te $est

    eamples o" Breek arcitecture are in "act in mo!ern Turkey. One $e'ins to un!erstan! ow

    important natolia is to >uropean istory 4 it is )erita$le open-air museum ere. ut so "arwe a! )isite! te more touristy areas. n! I coul! also spen! muc more time writin' a$out

    tese won!ers.

    >pesus too is anoter one o" te #e)en &on!ers o" te &orl!

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    Howe)er te aim o" tis )isit was a$out to un"ol!. &e picke! up our last 'uests 4 tree pa'an

    "rien!s "rom te @# - at o!rum irport an! /ourneye! to Tur'ut+ )ia *ilas+ nort-east o"

    o!rum.

    Fre! 3amon! wo a! also /oine! us continues te storyC

    :I was

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    Te place was "ull o" power !espite not a)in' $een use! as a place o" Pa'an worsip

    "or E00 years. Te 000 pre)ious years o" continuous worsip must a)e le"t teir

    mark+ or else it is a natural power spot an! was cosen "or tat reason as te location

    o" a temple to Hekate. "ter linkin' in a circle we eac o" us went in!i)i!ually to

    a!!ress our own personal prayers to Hekate+ an! I "elt a )ery stron' personal contact

    wit te Bo!!ess.

    In!ee! te Aarian Hekate is 9uite !i""erent to te Hellenic or #akespearian ima'e o"

    Hekate many o" us are use! to. Howe)er te ima'e we saw was 9uite !i""erent.

    Picture! as a youn' mai!en carryin' one an! sometimes two torces+ se is te one

    wo li'ts te way.

    From l$ert HenricsC

    GHectare was a popular an! u$i9uitous 'o!!ess "rom te time o" Hasi! until

    late anti9uity...se emer'es $y te 5t cent. s a more sinister !i)ine "i'ure

    associate! wit ma'ic an! witccra"t+ lunar lore an! creatures o" te ni't+ !o'sacri"ices an! illuminate! ca)es+ as well as !oorways an! crossroa!s.G

    From Hekate;s HistoryC

    GHekate pro$a$ly ori'inate! in te mytolo'y o" te Aarians in soutwest sia

    *inor+ an! was inte'rate! into Breek reli'ion aroun! te sit century =>.

    Howe)er+ tere is e)i!ence tat Hekate e)ol)e! "rom te >'yptian mi!wi"e

    'o!!ess He9it+ :alternati)ely spelt ;Heket; or ;Hekat;.< Te "ro' ea!e! 'o!!ess

    He9it assiste! wit te !aily $irt o" te #un an! was associate! wit te

    apparently ma'ical 'ermination o" te seemin'ly li"eless corn see!. In pre-

    !ynastic >'ypt te matriarc an! wise woman o" te tri$e was calle! te ;e9;.

    It;s interestin' to note tat Hekate is associate! wit cil!$irt.G

    #ee also te article Tria!s an! Trinities 4 Te ori'in o" te *o!ern Pa'an Bo!!ess

    $y Pru!ence ones+ up!ate! an! pu$lise! in &iccan e!e 3ammas 2005.

    #e writes o" te early HekateC

    Inscriptions "rom te Jr!42n!century => in te a!/oinin' city+ #tratonikeia+ !escri$e

    er as KBreatest Bo!!ess8L se is paire! wit te local ?eus+ imsel" calle! KBreatest

    Bo!8L an! like =y$ele in Pyr'ia se was ser)e! in er temple $y sacre! eunucs.Ima'es tere sow er as a sin'le "i'ure+ seate! on a trone+ or sometimes wit lions+

    o"ten stan!in'+ er )eil in"late! in a crescent-sape! nim$us a$o)e er ea!. &e may

    suspect tat a 'o!!ess so ricly onoure! $y te all-power"ul Olympian ?eus was a

    local rulin' 'o!!ess wo was $ein' ;$ou't o""; $y a newly-!ominant priestoo!+ an!

    so it appears to $e. Hesio!;s "ater came "rom te nei'$ourin' pro)ince+ 3ycia in

    sia *inor+ wic a! $een colonise! $y Breek-speakin' peoples as recently as te

    nint an! ei't centuries =>+ an! so te importance o" te ancestral !eities was no

    !ou$t )i)i! in te memory o" is son te poet.

    http://omega.cohums.ohio-state.edu:8080/hyper-lists/classics-l/02-02-01/0196.htmlhttp://www.hecate.org.uk/history.htmhttp://omega.cohums.ohio-state.edu:8080/hyper-lists/classics-l/02-02-01/0196.htmlhttp://www.hecate.org.uk/history.htm
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    Hekate;s ori'inal name+Akta+ is =arian+ its meanin' unknown+ $ut to te a)era'e

    ncient Breek its naturalise! "orm woul! recall hekaton+ one un!re!+ an! tus wit

    er a$un!ant rices se was+ so to speak+ te 'o!!ess o" millionaires+ in)oke! $y

    e)eryone "or prosperity an! 'oo! "ortune in all areas o" li"e :Theogony %E "".ntrance Bate+ teBymnasium+ te ouleuterionlocate! at te centre o" te city+ te Teatre.

    Te kmM miles lon' #acre! oa!,line! wit tom$s an! startin' "rom te

    entrance 'ate+ connecte! #tratoniceia+ wic was te political centre+ to 3a'ina

    #anctuary,te prominent reli'ious centre o" =aria !e!icate! to Hecate. Tis

    natolian 'o!!ess was 3eto8s twin sister. #e rei'ne! o)er te air+ eart an!

    sea+ an! se was present at "unerals to take care o" te !ea!s8 spirits. Oracles

    an! witces were er priests. ,urin' reli'ious "esti)als+ a splen!i! ritual

    procession carrie! te key o" te Temple o" Hecate "rom 3a'ina to

    #tratoniceia.

    Te 3a'ina #anctuary+ wic was a prominent cult centre o" te =arians is still

    "amous to!ay an! is also known $y te name o" 3eyne. ecent researc as

    re)eale! tat tis re'ion was ina$ite! "rom te nti9ue ronNe 'e :J000

    .=.< on to te present. Te Ain's o" #elecuci! !ynasty $y )irtue o" 'reat

    constructional e""orts+ $uilt te 3a'ina sanctuary as a reli'ious centre an! te

    city o" #tratoniceia+ km. away+ was te political centre. t te 3a'ina

    sanctuary tere are propylon :monumental 'ateway

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    Te inscriptions at 3a'ina an! on te walls o" te ouleterion at #tratoniceia

    re)eal tat tose two cities were connecte! $y a #acre! oa! an! !urin'

    "esti)ities a splen!i! ritual procession carrie! te key o" te temple "rom

    3a'ina to #tratoniceia

    n! on te we$site ttpCMMwww.mu'la-turiNm.'o).trMenM%20.aspwe rea!C

    On te remainin' 'ate tere is an inscription+ wic mentions u'ustus a)in'

    restore! it in 2 =. Te temple was $uilt accor!in' to Hellenistic "asion o" te time

    in te =orintian style+ tou' interprete! in a mo!ernist manner $y te "oun!ers o"

    #tratonikea+ te #eleuci!s+ wo especially use! it in te $uil!in' o" tis temple. Te

    "ater o" Turkis museums+ Osman Ham!i ey+ carrie! out eca)ations at 3a'ina

    $etween 76-76J. Te inscriptions "oun! were taken to te Istan$ul *useums o"

    rcaeolo'y. To!ay eca)ations are $ein' carrie! out un!er te !irection o" Pro"essor

    ,r met . Trpan. ,urin' recent eca)ations te arcitectural portions o" te

    temple were put in an or!erly "asion+ te propylon was !u' up an! totally unearte!

    an! a so "ar un!e"ine! sacre! structure was !isco)ere!.

    &e were )ery "ortunate to meet ,r. Tirpan an! is arcaeolo'ical team. He as $een at te

    3a'ina site since 666. Te )i!eo an! presentation e 'a)e on te Fri!ay e)enin' was

    interestin' to watc. Tey are te "irst Turkis scientists to a)e eca)ate! a sacre! site.

    @sually it as $een te ritis+ Berman+ #we!is wo a)e eca)ate! in Turkey an! taken

    priNe "in!in's to te respecti)e museums. Famous eamples are te Bate o" *iletos an! te

    Per'amon ltar in erlin. It is important to te Turkis people tat teir own scientists are

    now in car'e an! tat arte"acts are kept in Turkey. ut tis !oes not pre)ent cultural

    ecan'es o" course.

    "ter lea)in' Tur'ut we )isite! te *useum at *ilas+ a small $ut lo)ely museum opene! in

    67. Tere are many statues "oun! "or eample at #tratonikea+ in te 1500 m2 'ar!en.

    In te a"ternoon anoter won!er was waitin' "or us at 3a$ran!a. 'ain /oine! $y a

    processional way 4 tis time 20 kms "rom *ilas 4 te clim$ up te mountain pat must a)e

    $een strenuous "or te ancient pil'rims. Te )iew "rom tis oney country was

    $reattakin'. I a)e $een amaNe! at ow 'reen tis area o" Turkey is. &it a *e!iterranean

    climate one woul! a)e epecte! e)erytin' to a)e $een $rown an! $urnt $y now 4 in late

    summer. ut no te 'reenness o" te countrysi!e was un$elie)a$le.

    http://www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr/en/14120.asphttp://www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr/en/14120.asphttp://www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr/en/14120.asp
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    I soul! mention one oter eye-opener. I

    a! always tou't tat te sacre! !ou$le-ae+ te la$rys was a *inoan sym$ol.

    Howe)er it appears tat TH> ancient

    sym$ol "or Aaria is te la$rys. It was no

    surprise ten to "in! out tat ?eus o"

    3a$ran!a carrie! a !ou$le ae.

    3a$ran!a+ wic is te oly area o" ?eus 3a$raun!os+ is in ancient Aaria :#outwestern natolia

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    Te eca)ation works ere a)e $een starte! in 6%7 $y .&.Persson an! are

    continuin' wit inter)als since tat time. Te current eca)ations are $ein' eecute! $y

    P. Hellstrm.

    Te access "rom *ylasa to te oly area a! $een pro)i!e! )ia te oly roa! a)in' a

    wi!t o" 7 m. Te layin' traces on tis roa! can $e seen e)en to!ay. ccess to te areaa! $een pro)i!e! wit one o" te two entrance $uil!in's :propylon

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    "ter 3a$ran!a we ma!e our way $ack to

    o!rum were we spent te last couple o"!ays reco)erin' "rom our pil'rima'e. o

    one wante! to lea)e+ nor say 'oo!-$ye to

    our Turkis "rien!s. n! now lookin' at

    my rtemis statue an! $lue an! yellow

    e)il-eye arm$an! an! oter sou)enirs o"

    Aaria + I am sure we will $e $ack.

    Fre! a!!e! in is reportC

    Turkis o""icial interest in teir pa'an past+ an! tolerance "or contemporary neo-

    Pa'anism contrasts )ery "a)oura$ly wit attitu!es in France+ were Pa'anism like all

    new reli'ions is )iewe! wit suspicion as a GsectG an! can $e li$elle! wit impunity+ or

    Breece were Orto!o =ristianity is re'ar!e! as so muc part o" te Breek national

    i!entity tat any alternati)es are implicitly i" not always eplicitly acti)ely !iscoura'e!.

    Tur'ut )illa'e+ were we staye!+ 'a)e me a sense o" !Q/R )u altou' tis was my "irst)isit to Turkey. n! ten I remem$ere! *arcel Pa'nol;s "ilms o" te 6J0s !escri$in'

    li"e in te #outern Frenc )illa'es o" te *i!i. People 'enerally assume tat Turkis

    secularism is limite! to te sopisticate! elites o" Istan$ul an! nkara+ an! tat te

    countrysi!e must $e still stron'ly Islamic.

    ut wit E00 ina$itants an! no otel Tur'ut "ul"ille! most o" te re9uirements o" a

    $ackwoo!s )illa'e. (et te only women wearin' tra!itional Islamic !ress wit a scar"

    aroun! te ea! were a "ew ol!er women. (oun'er people o" $ot sees wore >uropean

    style /eans an! skirts. Te only youn' women wearin' Islamic !ress I saw later in

    Istan$ul an! was assure! $y tat tey were ra$ tourists.

    ll tis remo)e! any !ou$ts tat I a! a$out Turkey;s claim to $e part o" >uropean

    culture. O" course te picture may $e !i""erent in >astern an! #out->astern natolia+

    $ut ten so were #ar!inia an! #icily e9ually !i""erent "rom te ortern Italian

    mainlan! 50 years a'o an! still are.

    "ter we all sai! our 'oo!$yes on 20 #eptem$er I spent two !ays as a tourist in Istan$ul+

    were I a! also ne)er $een $e"ore.

    It is ope! tat we will repeat tis )isit an! arran'ements are alrea!y $ein' ma!e "or a return

    )isit in 200E. *any tanks to teneris+ oran an! #emi an! all te PFI !ele'ates wo

    elpe! in makin' tis a memora$le )isit.

    *or'ana

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    For more in"ormation a$out "uture )isits to TurkeyM3a'ina+

    please email us at ekatesiaSpa'an"e!eration.or'

    Beneral in"ormation a$out Pa'an Fe!eration International see www.pa'an"e!eration.or'an!

    PFI Turkey www.tr.pa'an"e!eration.or'

    otes

    Hekate8s istoryC ttpCMMekate.timeri"t.netMistory.tm

    Tria!s an! Trinities 4 Te ori'in o" te *o!ern Pa'an Bo!!ess $y Pru!ence ones+

    up!ate! an! pu$lise! in &iccan e!e 3ammas 2005.

    ttpCMMwww.mu'la-turiNm.'o).trMenM%20.asp

    Potos o" 3a'inaC ttpCMMwww."oto'ra"cilar.comMclassicM3a'inaM

    n!ttpCMMwww.arcaeolo'y-classic.comMturkeyM3a'ina.tml

    Stratoniceia:ttpCMMwww.'ui!e-martine.comMae'ean0.asp

    3a$ran!aCttpCMMwww.kulturturiNm.'o).trMportalMarkeolo/ien.aspU$el'enoVJ0%%

    Potos $y lan W on an! pu$lise! wit permission an! tanks11

    3a'ina is te ancient city+ nortwest o" (ata'an+ wic $elon's to te (ata'an ,istrict.

    Tis !istrict is part o" *u'la+ te pro)ince on te e'ean =oast o" Turkey

    mailto:[email protected]://www.paganfederation.org/http://www.tr.paganfederation.org/http://www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr/en/14120.asphttp://www.fotografcilar.com/classic/Lagina/http://www.archaeology-classic.com/turkey/Lagina.htmlhttp://www.archaeology-classic.com/turkey/Lagina.htmlhttp://www.guide-martine.com/aegean10.asphttp://www.kulturturizm.gov.tr/portal/arkeoloji_en.asp?belgeno=3044http://www.kulturturizm.gov.tr/portal/arkeoloji_en.asp?belgeno=3044mailto:[email protected]://www.paganfederation.org/http://www.tr.paganfederation.org/http://www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr/en/14120.asphttp://www.fotografcilar.com/classic/Lagina/http://www.archaeology-classic.com/turkey/Lagina.htmlhttp://www.guide-martine.com/aegean10.asphttp://www.kulturturizm.gov.tr/portal/arkeoloji_en.asp?belgeno=3044