© Pritam Baruah

Trip Report: Barail Range, Jatinga-Haflong, North Cachar, Assam, India 7 - 9 Mar 2015 – By Pritam Baruah

This report is on an exploratory birding trip to the Barail Range in Dima-Hasao (North Cachar Hills) district of Assam as part of the Big Bird Day 2015 pan-India event. The BBD was scheduled for March 8th and the goal was to record as many species as possible in a specific area. My previous year’s (2014) BBD effort in Kaziranga was well coordinated and hence quite successful – my team (friend & me) recorded 207 species for the day and the total for Kaziranga including other teams was 253 – both figures highest in India. I had registered for Kaziranga this year too but due to inevitable circumstances I was unable to coordinate the activity as well as last year. Hence facing a BBD statistical outlier, I thought it would be best to skip Kaziranga altogether and visit a new area which would not only be a write-in for the BBD but also be exploratory at the same time. And the Barail hill range in southern Assam fit the bill perfectly. I had always wanted to go birding there but never did because of security issues. Now on a last moment whim that is where I decided to go, with no prior planning. I had birded in the same range in Nagaland (Khonoma) with good results. The Barail range is one of the many hill ranges that make up the north eastern hill states south of the Brahmaputra. These ranges are sometimes grouped together in ornithological literature as ‘South Assam Hills’ (SAH). The Barail range is the highest range in Assam (100 – 1960 masl). Above 1000 masl the range is cloaked in evergreen forest. Below that is semi-evergreen forest with plenty of bamboo. There are patches of natural grass, orchards (orange, pineapple, banana & coffee) and jhum as well. The northern face of the range rises abruptly from undulating terrain which top up at about 700 masl (at Haflong). This undulating terrain, all in the North Cachar Hills district is very dry because it falls in the rain shadow area of the monsoons. Most of it is covered by jhum cultivation or regenerating jhum fields. I didn’t bird here as I didn’t have time and instead focused on the Barail range where higher elevations are accessible.

Logistics The part of the Barail range that falls within Assam is not reputed to be particularly safe (there is still an ongoing insurgency, although that is easing) and the roads leading up to it are appalling (but have improved). The Jatinga-Haflong area offers the best point of access for the Barail Range in Assam. I used a car to drive to Haflong, where I stayed for two nights. It took 6 hours (Guwahati – Nagaon – Lanka – Dayangmukh – Haflong). I didn’t bird in the dry habitat along the way due to lack of time but it could be interesting to explore (I found some Spot-winged Starling at a pit stop). The road sees very little traffic and the stretch from Lanka to Dayangmukh is in truly horrible condition. I am glad my vehicle came out of it alive. I didn’t have hotel reservations but I found a simple room in pretty much the first hotel along the main strip in town – Hotel Nothao (has a restaurant). There are plenty of cheap restaurants along the main strip and some other hotels too (including the somewhat fancy Hotel Landmark). It was rather difficult getting to good birding habitat there (several reasons) and it took me the entire 2nd half of 7th to confirm a reasonable plan for 8th. Basically, my intention was to climb up the range to access good habitat but on asking around for how to, I had to put up with bizarre statements such as – ‘no use going up there because no birds’, ‘we can only walk up at night, light a bonfire and return in the morning’, ‘best to go half way up, have a picnic & return’, ‘no going up on Sunday because everyone goes to church’ and most interestingly – ‘no birds here at all except in September/October’. This last bit of knowledge no doubt came from the practice of killing & consuming exhausted passage migrants in September/October by disorienting them with bright lights on foggy nights. Unfortunately, this practice is widely popular as the ‘Mysterious bird suicide of Jatinga’ – an ironic description indeed. It has since been discredited by science but the legend continues. The practice continues too. It has shown some decline but it is unclear if that is attributable to increased awareness about conservation or simply a decrease in the volume of migration.

© Pritam Baruah

Towards late evening it finally came to my attention that a trail to the very top of Hempeupet starts at Leikul, a village of the Kuki tribe, situated 2.5 km east of Jatinga. So I went there hoping to find someone to show me the way up the next morning. Almost immediately, I found a young man named Lena (+91 8011380346) who volunteered to accompany me and unlike others he did not suggest his own ideas. Instead he listened and told me that he will simply accompany me and I can do what I want and I can come down at any time I want. That was a relief and I asked him to be ready at 6.00 am the next morning. A little earlier I had also scoped out the habitat along the road from Jatinga to Retzawl but decided to exclude it from the BBD on 8th and instead spend some time there on 9th morning before heading back to Guwahati. So the confirmed plan for BBD was a full day birding hike on the trail leading up to Hempeupet peak (1750 masl) from Leikul village (700 masl). Note that Hempeupet, also called Barail Peak is the 3rd highest peak in Assam after Laike (1960 masl) & Thumjang (1866 masl), both of which are also in the Barail range. A summary of the findings from the BBD on 8th and the short session on 9th is given in the next section. I returned by the highway-under-construction (Haflong – Maibong – Lumding – Nagaon – Guwahati). It took 5.45 hours. I hoped to spend some time birding on the way back and even though the road passed through good wilderness (dry forest in Langting-Mupa Reserved Forest & deciduous forest in Lumding Reserved Forest), I decided against stopping because of heavy disturbance & dust from highway construction.

226 km x 155 km

1 Haflong – Jatinga – Hempeupet area (see next map) 6 Marat-Longri Wildlife Sanctuary

2 Dry forest & jhum in undulating terrain 7 Karbi Anglong Hills.

3 Barail Range (S Assam, SW Nagaland, NW Manipur) 8 Dhansiri Reserved Forest

4 Langting-Mupa Reserved Forest 9 Dayangmukh

5 Lumding Reserved Forest 10 Nagaland state

© Pritam Baruah

10.5 km x 8.7 km

Summary

Overall, the visit was quite successful – recorded several rarities and some species that are seldom recorded in Assam, thus confirming their continued presence in the state. Total for both sessions was 109 species. 95 species were recorded on 8th (BBD count) including highlights such as Beautiful Nuthatch, Rufous-backed Sibia, Grey Sibia, Spot-breasted, Blue-winged & Assam Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Rufous-fronted & Streak-throated Barwing, Black-headed, White-browed & Black-eared Shrike-Babbler, Striated, Black-chinned, White-naped & Whiskered Yuhina, Coral-billed & Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Streaked Wren Babbler, Flavescent Bulbul, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Purple Cochoa (heard only), Mrs Gould's & Green-tailed Sunbird, Sapphire Flycatcher, Russet Bush Warbler, Collared Owlet, several neat Phylloscopus & Seicercus species. The short birding session on 9th morning (does not count for BBD) along the Jatinga – Retzawl road (8 km) yielded 37 species among which was an Asian Stubtail - possibly a first for Assam.

Rufous-backed Sibia White-browed Shrike Babbler

© Pritam Baruah

1 Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis B One soaring very low over the canopy at about 1650 masl.

2 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica B One flushed from the trail.

3 Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis B One at 850 masl.

4 Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei B Several heard especially before dusk. One seen briefly.

5 Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides B Several heard. One mobbed by Striated Yuhina & Ashy Bulbul. Didn’t pay attention to the mob.

6 Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis B Common.

7 Coppersmith Barbet Psilopogon haemacephalus B Heard in Haflong town just before leaving hotel.

8 Great Barbet Psilopogon virens B Common all over.

9 Lineated Barbet Psilopogon lineatus B Common in lower elevations.

10 Golden-throated Barbet Psilopogon franklinii B Common all over. But only two seen.

11 Blue-throated Barbet Psilopogon asiaticus B Common in lower elevations.

12 Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus B Two seen. One each at the bottom & midway of the trail.

13 White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea Two in a flock with White-rumped Shama, Whistler's Warbler, Nepal Fulvetta, Gray-throated Babbler, Mountain Tailorbird along the Jatinga-Retzawl road.

14 Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius B Highlight. A single male in mature oak forest. Confirmation of its presence in the Barail Range.

15 Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus B One (almost at dusk) outside Leikul village.

16 Vernal Hanging-Parrot Loriculus vernalis B Two seen from above over closed canopy forest.

17 Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris B Minivets were not very common. Two seen halfway up.

18 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus B Scattered sightings.

19 Black-winged Cuckooshrike Lalage melaschistos B A flock of 3 in Leikul village.

20 Black-headed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer B A single mega flock just below the top of Hempeupet at 1670 masl contained all 3 species of Shrike-Babbler. They left the flock soon after I saw them.

21 Blyth's Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aeralatus B Split from Black-eared. Several cooperative individuals (both males & females) in a mega flock close to the peak.

22 Black-eared Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius melanotis B Several highly vocal individuals in the above flock.

23 White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca B Several sightings above 1200 masl.

24 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus B A few.

25 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus B Fairly common. Vocal and sallying for insects.

26 Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer B One seen without Racket.

27 Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus B A few.

28 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus B One at about 800 masl.

29 Striated Swallow Cecropis striolata B Common.

30 Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis B Only 2 seen (in a flock at the top).

31 Beautiful Nuthatch Sitta formosa B Highlight. This bulky nuthatch is very rare across its range and it was great to confirm its continued presence in Assam and Barail Range. Seen at 1450 masl in a flock with Rufous-backed Sibia, Nepal Fulvetta, White-naped Yuhina, Black-chinned Yuhina & Whiskered Yuhina.

32 Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus B Common higher up.

33 Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris B Common.

34 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer B Common.

35 Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens B [SAH] Several in a dry patch on the way up at 1000 masl.

36 White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus B A few lower down.

© Pritam Baruah

37 Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus B Common.

38 Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala B Common & highly vocal.

39 Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii B Common higher up.

40 Pygmy Cupwing Pnoepyga pusilla B One conspicuous individual seen close by.

41 Asian Stubtail Urosphena squameiceps Highlight. Possibly first record for Assam. One seen well hopping on the ground under dense roadside vegetation. Very short tail, bold long black eye-stripe, long eye-brow, horizontal stance, very light buff underparts & brown upperparts. First seen in a shallow gully parallel to the road with little vegetation. 'Ran' to cover under vegetation above the gully almost as soon as I detected it but continued to walk on the ground below the vegetation in clear view for about 20 seconds. Didn't fly, hopped out of view. Along Jatinga - Retzawl Road.

42 Gray-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer Several heard & 2 seen.

43 Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea B Common along the trail.

44 Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus One seen on 9th. See (13).

45 Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus B One in Leikul village.

46 Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher B In mixed feeding flocks in higher areas of the trail.

47 Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus B In mixed feeding flocks.

48 Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei B ssp Phylloscopus humei mandellii.

49 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides B In mixed feeding flocks. Also singles. Vocal.

50 Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides B In mixed feeding flocks. Also singles. Highly vocal.

51 Gray-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos B Singles seen after 1400 masl.

52 Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri B Common.

53 White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis Only one seen near Retzawl.

54 Gray-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys B Two seen near the top of Hempeupet.

55 Russet Bush-Warbler Locustella mandelli B One along grassy scrub lower down in the trail.

56 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius B Common.

57 Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis B Fairly common.

58 Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens B Common in roadside scrub & grass. Vocal.

59 Gray-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii B Fairly common. Vocal.

60 Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps B The most common Yuhina.

61 White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri B Several in a flock at 1450 masl. See (31).

62 Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis B Fairly common higher up.

63 Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta B Same flock as (31), (61).

64 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus B Surprisingly, only seen once each on 8th & 9th.

65 Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Mixornis gularis One sighting on 9th near Retzawl.

66 Golden Babbler Cyanoderma chrysaeum B Fairly common higher up but also seen lower down.

67 Rufous-capped Babbler Cyanoderma ruficeps B One in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

68 Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus B Several in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

69 Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis B One in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

70 White-browed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps One in a gully near Retzawl.

71 Gray-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps Common around 600 masl.

72 Rufous-winged Fulvetta Schoeniparus castaneceps B Many in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

© Pritam Baruah

73 Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps One in a dry gully near Retzawl.

74 Streaked Wren-Babbler Turdinus brevicaudatus B [SAH] One in a gully along the trail & another heard in a gully near Retzawl. Very skulky.

75 Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis B Fairly common in feeding flocks all over.

76 White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus B One large flock seen at about 1100 masl.

77 Spot-breasted Laughingthrush Garrulax merulinus B [SAH] Highlight. One calling spontaneously from a densely vegetated gully close to 1550 masl. Individual was firmly unresponsive to playback. But higher up near the top, I got lucky when while watching a Red-faced Liocichla along a descending slope, a rampaging Blue-winged Laughingthrush suddenly appeared and flushed one Spot-breasted & one Assam Laughingthrush (both must have been feeding on the ground out of view).

78 Blue-winged Laughingthrush Trochalopteron squamatum B See (77).

79 Assam Laughingthrush Trochalopteron chrysopterum B [SAH] See (77).

80 Gray Sibia Heterophasia gracilis B [SAH] Only one seen associating with a mixed bulbul party in edge of forest at about 1200 masl.

81 Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris B Two flocks seen along the trail.

82 Rufous-backed Sibia Minla annectens B Highlight. Two seen in a flock with Beautiful Nuthatch and then many more seen in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet. It is quite uncommon across its range and it was great to confirm its continued presence in Assam state and Barail Range.

83 Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea B Two seen near the top of Hempeupet.

84 Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni B Two seen along the trail.

85 Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni B Several seen in the higher parts of the trail including in the mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

86 Blue-winged Minla Actinodura cyanouroptera B In a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

87 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis B In village Leikul.

88 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus See (13).

89 Pale-chinned Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis poliogenys One close to Retzawl.

90 Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara One along Jatinga-Retzawl road.

91 Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys One heard-only along the Jatinga-Retzawl road. Unresponsive.

92 White-tailed Robin Cinclidium leucurum B One seen well near Retzawl.

93 Golden Bush-Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus B One in grass along the trail.

94 Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla B Only one lower down.

95 Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata B Common along the trail.

96 Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra One in a gully near Retzawl.

97 Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira B One on a lone tree standing amidst grass at 1100 masl.

98 Purple Cochoa Cochoa purpurea B Heard-only from the top of Hempeupet calling somewhere below. Unresponsive.

99 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis B Common near Jatinga.

100 Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnia malabarica B One in Leikul village.

101 Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii B Several sightings along the trail till halfway up.

102 Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum minullum B One in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

103 Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus B A pair in a mega flock near the top of Hempeupet.

© Pritam Baruah

104 Mrs Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae B At least 10 were in attendance at a large flowering tree with bright red flowers at about 1600 masl.

105 Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis B One in the tree above.

106 Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra B Two lower down on both days.

107 White Wagtail Motacilla alba B On the motor able main road.

108 Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni B Two near Retzawl.

109 House Sparrow Passer domesticus B Common in Jatinga, Haflong.

95 B: BBD, [SAH]: In India found only in South Assam Hills

Beautiful Nuthatch Grey-hooded Warbler

Natural montane grassland at 1100 masl. Looks good for Spot-breasted Parrotbill & even Manipur Bush-Quail?