Trillian Square you use C atona 10 g / Cutie Pies so that you don’t run out of any colour. Hook: 3.5 mm when using Scheepjes Catona yarn. Colour distribution: Each square is made

Trillian Square Design by Johanna Lindahl / Mijo Crochet

Size: About 24 x 24 cm. You can also stop after row 6 if you like a smaller square, about 12 x 12 cm. The sizes refer to a square made with Scheepjes Catona from Favoritgarner. Gauge: The squares size should be about 9 x 9 cm after row four (unblocked). This is only important if you use Catona 10 g / Cutie Pies so that you don’t run out of any colour. Hook: 3.5 mm when using Scheepjes Catona yarn. Colour distribution: Each square is made with three colours plus one colour for the two last rows of each square. Colour number 1-3 are specified after each row number. If you like to use the same colour combinations as I did, please look at the colour guide available where you downloaded this pattern. It will give you information about all colours used and how much yarn you need.

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Abbreviations (US terms): Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch Sc - single crochet Standing sc - Standing single crochet * Dc - double crochet Standing dc - standing double crochet * Ch ring - Chain ring Sp - space (e.g. ch-1 sp) Sk - skip Rep - repeat Stitches marked with * are described on my blog, mijocrochet.wordpress.com.

Tips: ● Ch 2 in the beginning of a row counts as a dc. ● A standing sc can be replaced by ch 1 and a standing dc can be replaced by ch 2. ● There is always ch 2 in each corner. ● Stitches between ( ) are repeated as many times as indicated after the parenthesis. ● Stitches between [ ] are repeated as many times as indicated after the square

brackets. ● Stitches between { } are made in the same stitch or chain space. ● Stitches between *-* are repeated as many times as indicated after the asterisks. ● Stitches between | | shows how many stitches you should have at each side of the

square after completing the row.



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Start: Ch 4, sl st in 1:st ch to make a ch ring. Row 1: (1) Ch 4, {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc} in the ch ring. Sl st in 2:nd ch in the beginning of the row. Cut yarn. |3 dc / side|

Row 2: (2) Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. (Ch 1, {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Cut yarn. |6 dc and 1 ch-1 sp / sida|






Row 3: (3) Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. (Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Do not cut yarn. |9 dc and 2 ch-1 sp / sida|

Row 4: (3) Sl st to the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, {2 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. * ([Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 2 times.* Ch 1, {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Ch 1, sl st in the 2:nd ch in the beginning of the row. Cut yarn. |12 dc and 3 ch-1 sp / side|






Row 5: (2) Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. *(Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 3,* {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Do not cut yarn. |9 dc, 4 ch-3 sp and 2 sc / side|

Row 6: (2) Ch 2, {2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc} in next ch-2 sp. * (1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, {1 dc + ch 1 + 1 dc} in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc. Ch 1,* 1 dc in next dc, {2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Sl st in the 2:nd ch in the beginning of the row. |18 dc and 5 ch-1 sp / side|






Row 7: (1) Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. *([Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 5 times. Ch 1,* {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Do not cut yarn. |21 dc and 6 ch-1 sp / side|

Row 8: (1) Sl st to the next ch-2 sp, ch 2 {2 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. *([Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 6 times. Ch 1,* {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Sl st in the 2:nd ch in the beginning of the row. Cut yarn. |24 dc and 7 ch-1 sp / side|






Mind your tension when making row 9 and 10 so that your work don’t curl. Use a 0,5 size bigger hook if needed. Row 9: (2) Join with a standing sc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. Ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch-2 sp. * ([Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp] 7 times. Ch 3,* {1 sc + ch 2 + 1 sc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Sl st in the 1:st sc of the row. Do not cut yarn. |9 sc and 8 ch-3 sp / side|

Row 10: (2) All sc’s in this row are worked over the chain spaces of row 9 and in the dc’s of row 8, except the sc’s in the corners that are made in the previous row’s chain-2 spaces. Sl st to the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 1 sc in the same ch-2 sp. * ([Ch 1, 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc] 8 times. Ch 1,* {1 sc + ch 2 + 1 sc} in next ch-2 space) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Sl st in the 1:st ch in the beginning of the row. Cut yarn. |18 sc and 17 ch-1 sp / side|






Row 11: (3) Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. * ([Ch 1, skip 1 ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 8 times. Ch 1,* {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Cut yarn. |30 dc and 9 ch-1 sp / side|

I have made the last two rows with the same colour (Scheepjes Catona 393) on every square to make a frame that united all squares. Row 12: Join with a standing dc in the ch-2 sp of any corner. {ch 2 + 3 dc} in the same ch-2 sp. * ([Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times. Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 3,* {3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sl st in the 1:st dc of the row. Do not cut yarn. |18 dc, 10 ch-3 sp and 5 sc / side| Row 13: Ch 2, {2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc} in next ch-2 sp. * (1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. [Ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, {1 dc + ch 1 + 1 dc} in next dc, 2 dc in next dc] 4 times. Ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc. Ch 1,* 1 dc in next dc, {2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc} in next ch-2 sp) 3 times. Rep *-* 1 time. Sl st in the 2:nd ch in the beginning of the row. Cut yarn. |36 dc and 11 ch-1 sp / side|






You can now decide if you like to join following squares “as you go” making the last row, or sew/crochet them together when all are made. I decided to crochet mine together with slip stitches in the back loops only. If you are making a blanket and want to add a border, the Trillian border pattern is available where you downloaded this pattern.






Documents

Trillian Square you use C atona 10 g / Cutie Pies so that you don’t run out of any colour. Hook: 3.5 mm when using Scheepjes Catona yarn. Colour distribution: Each square is made