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Trench Coat Guide

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discuss the Trench Coat, to explore its unique roots and

variations and to help you to find a trench that both suits

your style and your budget.

To jump directly to a paragraph, follow the links below:

I. History of the Trench Coat [#1]

II. What Makes a Trench a Trench? [#2]

III. Trench Coat Fit [#3]

IV. Where & How to Buy a Trench Coat [#4]

The Trench Coat has come a long way from the battlefieldsof the 19th century. As far as coats go, the Trench Coat is

about as iconic as they come, appreciated for their classic

form and functionality by men of all tastes. In order to find

the right Trench Coat for yourself, it is important to

understand its history.

The History of the

Trench Coat

As with many garments today, there are numerous


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theories about the exact origins of the trench coat, and

while it is impossible to find out who is right, I will try to

outline possible scenarios – you can then choose the

theory that pleases you the most!

The Early Days –Macintosh & the

Rubberized Raincoat

It seems, that the 18th-century coachman’s coat – which

American Trenchcoat of the 1940’s

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/American-

Trenchcoat-of-the-1940s-.jpg]


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was also the predecessor of the greatcoat

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/overcoat-topcoat-

greatcoat-terminology-explained/] – was likely the

forefather of the trench coat. Unlike modern designer

garments, each characteristic feature of the trench was

born out of practicality.

Today, the trench coat is classified as a raincoat, which

brings us to our starting point at the beginning of the

nineteenth century. Back then, gas lighting was becoming

increasingly popular, and Glasgow, Scotland, the gas was

derived from coal. In 1818, the Scotsman James Syme

realized that the by-product, coal-tar naphtha, was

capable of dissolving rubber. As has occurred so many

times in history, the inventor / discoverer passed on his

information to a savvy business person – in this case,

Charles Macintosh, who had successfully made a lot of

money with dry bleach.


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By 1823, Macintosh had found a way to make use of this

adhesive rubber solution in garments. He applied it

between two layers of cloth, which resulted in a

waterproof raincoat that did not feel at all like rubber.

Despite the fact that this raincoat had a most unpleasant

odor, the Charles Macintosh & Co. was founded in 1824Manchester, England, which was home to the cotton mills

that provided the raw materials for the raincoats.

Although Macintosh was able to sell quite a few of these

purely practical garments, the smell was not its

only undesirable feature. With the charm of a potato sack,

the coat also became sticky like honey in the heat and

hard as a board in the cold. Also, the fumes where toxic

for the factory workers. By the late 1830s, the coat had

fallen out of favor. Advances in production were made,

and so by 1854 the company Hellewell advertised the five

ounces reversible Paletot

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/paletot-double-

breasted-overcoat/] , which looked more fashionable and

hence was popular with anybody who had to face the

elements. Overall, the second incarnation of the raincoatwas so popular that they were referred to as Macintosh .

Today, the version with a ‘k’, Mackintosh, is

more prevalent, and the company is now Japanese-

owned.

Charles Macintosh

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Charles-

Macintosh.jpg]


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Aquascutum

While the Manchester rainwear production was about to

reach its peak, two chaps from southern England were

working on their own interpretation of this very raincoat.

One of them was John Emary, who had opened a tailorshop on Regent Street in 1851. He developed a special

raincoat that he called Aquascutum

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquascutum] (from the Latin

aqua = water & scutum = shield). Soon after that,

Aquascutum was producing coats for British soldiers.

Aquascutum Grey Goodlake Trenchcoat from 1854

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Aquascutum-

Grey-Goodlake-Trenchcoat-from-1854.jpg]


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These coats reached to the ankle and were mostly made

up in a double breasted facon.

The raincoat was produced in larger numbers for the

British military beginning in 1853 and used in the Crimean

war [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crimean_war] , and it

even made an appearance during the American Civil War

(1861 – 1865), the Boer Wars [http://en.wikipedia.org

/wiki/Boer_Wars] and the Russo-Japanese War

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russo-Japanese_War] (1904

– 1905). The oldest likely ‘trench’ coat in existence today is

the Aquascutum on of Lt. General Gerald Goodlake

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerald_Goodlake] , which is

preserved at Newstead Abbey, England. He wore this coat

during the Crimean war, in which he commanded a force

of sharpshooters. On one guerrilla sortie behind the

enemy lines, Goodlake, and a sergeant were cut off by a

large body of Russian troops. The two British soldiers

fired, gun-clubbed their nearest attackers and ran into a

nearby ravine. However, the ravine filled with enemy

soldiers. To their surprise, the British found they were

ignored because of the gray raincoats coats they wore –they had been mistaken for Russians. This camouflage

enabled them to march along in the ranks of the enemy

until they had an opportunity to escape and rejoin their

own men. The gray coat worn by Goodlake is displayed

next to his general’s uniform. It was made of all wool cloth

by a famous West of England mill and waterproofed to the

extent then possible. As you can see in the photo though it

was an early predecessor of the trench coat, it does notbear many of it’s trademark features, which would

develop later on.


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Thomas Burberry

In 1856, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, Thomas

Burberry [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Burberry]

, opened an outerwear shop in Basingstoke. Since he had

grown up in the country, he noticed that the linengarments of farm workers had certain properties that he

wanted to transfer to overcoats and topcoats. This

farmer’s clothing was lightweight and not constricting,

warm in the winter, breathable in the summer, and

shower resistant when damp, because the material

shrank once it got moist. Although Aquascutum was the

first to produce weatherproofed raincoats on a large scale,

by the 1870’s Thomas Burberry had developed into afierce competitor.


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Unlike the rubberized version of Emary, Burberry

followed a different approach. Instead of wool, he used

sturdy fabric [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fabric-

guide/] that was woven of a long staple Egyptian cotton

yarn that was waterproofed before and after the weaving.

He called it Gabardine [http://en.wikipedia.org

/wiki/Gabardine] – today also known as gaberdine – which

was, in fact, an old term that had been outdated at the

time. The advantages were that it was lightweight, odor

free, hard wearing and waterproofed. In 1879, he

registered the term Gabardine as a trademark, whichwould last for 40 years. World explorers like Amundsen

and Shackleton would use Gabardine for their exhibitions,

and it was widely used during the Boer Wars.

Many Boer war veterans would also fight in the trenches

The Tielocken Trench Coat from Burberry’s

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11

/The-Tielocken.jpg]


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of WWI, and the most famous one was Field Marshal Lord

Kitchener [http://en.wikipedia.org

/wiki/Herbert_Kitchener,_1st_Earl_Kitchener] , who cut an

iconic British figure with a mustache and a trench coat. His

preferred model was the Tielocken model, which had

been patented in 1912 as a coat with a strap and a buckle

instead of buttons and buttonholes. Many officers aspired

to follow him, and when he died on a sinking ship during

the war, he supposedly wore his trench coat, helping to

cement the coat’s by then-legendary status. As you can see

from the advertisement, the trench coat was beginning to

approach it’s traditional configuration.

Despite, Burberry’s prominent proponents, Aquascutum

also had a loyal following that would send back raving

letters from the front lines, which would go on to become

part of the Aquascutum’s advertising campaigns. During

WWI, trench coats were cut in different lengths; they were

generally shorter and sometimes they would just reach

above the knee. Moreover, they featured epaulets and

D-rings. Almost as famous as the sand, olive, and khaki

colors were blue & gray gabardine with a checked lining.While some suspect that this was a designer’s invention of

the 20th century, checked lined rainwear was, in fact, the

standard in the 1880s and 1890s. There was a period in

the mid-twentieth century in which trench coats were

often lined in solid colors, but today the checked lining is

ust as distinctive as the outer shell.


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Some may wonder why this coat remained so popular

during the interwar years, and there are a few key

reasons. Firstly, in Britain, the government had ordered

thousands of trench coats and found itself with a hefty

surplus at the end of the war. They were distributed to the

public in the 1920’s. Secondly, officers were happy to

make use of their uniforms in civilian life, especially since

this garment were tough, hard-wearing and fabricremained a scarce commodity. Thirdly, Hollywood stars

showcased the trench coat in films across the US, many of

which are cultural treasures themselves; just think of

Casablanca and Humphrey Bogart, or the Maltese Falcon.

Famous Casablanca Trench Coat Scene

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Famous-

Casablanca-Trench-Coat-Scene.jpg]


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Since the combat strategies of WWII were different and

less trench-focused than WWI, shorter multi-functional

field jackets [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com

/overcoat-topcoat-jacket-guide/] (some even camouflaged)

were now the garment of choice, and the trench coat lost

its military significance. Of course, many have probably

seen photographs of German officers from the time in

black leather trench coats but these were worn to makean impression rather than for their practicality.

Nevertheless, the trench coat remained popular with the

public thereafter. Aquascutum blended newly-invented

nylon with cotton to create water- and wind-resistant

fabrics such as Aqua 5 , long before Gore-Tex &

Gary Cooper [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/gary-cooper-gentleman-

style/] as soldier in Sergeant York, 1941 wearing an Over Knee Length Trench

Coat

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Soldier-

in-Over-Knee-Length-Trench-Coat.jpg]


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Windstopper became household names. In the following

decades until today, the trench coat has been popular

with countless designers for men and women alike. Today,

Burberry Trench Coats are designer investment pieces

rather than practical garments. Anyone who knows a

thing or two about clothing might try to find a vintage

quality Burberry or Aquascutum, because these were the

durable classics that contained all the defining [] details.

What makes a

Trench a Trench?

Trench Coat Hallmarks

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Trench-

Coat-Hallmarks.jpg]


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I can only repeat myself, but it is important to emphasize

that the trench was not invented. Rather than being

created on the whim of a designer, it evolved out of

necessity and practicality.

1. Trench Coat Fabric

100% Cotton Gabardine

For traditionalists, there is just one choice of trench coat

fabric: 100% cotton gabardine as invented by Thomas

Burberry. Tightly woven of a worsted cotton, it is both

lightweight and durable. As mentioned above, the yarn is

waterproofed as well as the finished fabric, achieving

remarkable water repellency properties during it’s heyday.

Rubberized

About 15 years ago, Mackintosh [http://en.wikipedia.org

/wiki/Mackintosh] reintroduced the rubberized coat as a

luxurious item in flashy colors. Since they were

particularly successful with Japanese women, the

company was sold to a Japanese firm. The prior owners

started Hancock [http://hancockva.com/] , which

produced rubberized garments in Scotland.

Modern Fabrics

Aquascutum’s original rubber coating invention is not

suggested, because one would easily overheat. If you want

ultimate stay-dry performance, fabrics like Gore Text orEvent fabric [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com

/wintersport-clothing-1928/] would be better suited,

however I think they just don’t look right on such a

traditional garment.


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Leather

There was a time when leather was frequently used for

trenches. German, WWII officers were infamous for their

black leather trenches. Out of respect for the victims the

Third Reich, black leather trench coats should never be

worn.

In brown colors, a trench coat resembles the style of the

1970’s and 1980’s. Moreover, it is usually heavier, and you

will not get as much use out of it. Therefore, it’s best to

stay clear of leather trench coats altogether.

2. Colors

Brauchitsch & Hitler in Black Leather Trench Coats at Warsaw Parade 1939

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Brauchitsch-

Hitler-ain-Leather-Trench-Coat-at-Warsaw-Parade-1939.jpg]


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The most traditional color is camel / khaki. Other popular

colors include sand, stone as well as navy blue or black.

Today, you can find them in black, yellow red or and every

other color under the sun. Personally, I own three trench

coats – the first is a vintage coat in black from Burberry,

the second is a light khaki/sand color, and the third is a

darker khaki, also from Burberry. It may seem obvious,

but bear in mind the lighter the color the more quickly it is

stained. For that reason, I would never consider taking

anything but a dark trench coat with me for travel

purposes. Just like with any other garment, think about

when and where you will wear it before you buy.

3. Raglan Sleeves

The raglan sleeve made its debut in the 19th century, and

ust like the Chesterfield coat

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chesterfield-

overcoat/] , it owes it name to an aristocrat: FitzRoy

Somerset 1st Baron Raglan [http://en.wikipedia.org

/wiki/FitzRoy_Somerset,_1st_Baron_Raglan] .

As with many other garments,

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/waiscoat-button/]

there are two stories here. During Waterloo, Lord Raglan

injured his right arm that had to be amputated.

One source indicates that he requested a coat designed so

he could dress more quickly. His tailor obliged and

created a short coat with a simple diagonal sleeve seam

setting that extended from the neck to the underarm,

without a distinctive sleeve head.


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According to Graeme Fidler, Lord Raglan wanted to help

soldiers to keep warm and hence devised a garment madefrom a potato sack, which was slit at the neck and slashed

diagonally across the corners to allow the arms to move

freely. Why anyone would want to imitate the style of a

potato-sack coat, I have no idea, but there you have it.

Traditional 5×2 Double Breasted Trenchcoat with Raglan Sleeves

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Traditional-

5x2-Double-Breasted-Trenchcoat.jpg]


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In my personal experience, I haven’t noticed a huge

difference in mobility between the two cuts. One might

feel the difference in a bespoke trench, but off the rack,

raglan armholes are often huge and don’t allow for more

mobility.

Overall, I think mobility is more a question of proper

tailoring than the choice of style. Of the two vintage

Burberrys’ trenches I own, one has a regular sleeve and

the other a raglan and to me they feel the same


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However, I would agree that it is easier to put on a raglan-

sleeved coat, which was the original reason Raglan wanted

such a coat (according to one story).

Again, the traditionalist would choose the raglan sleeve

while I would council everyone else to take whatever fits

best.

4. Double Breasted

By its military origin, a trench coat is traditionally double

breasted and features ten buttons on the front. Of course,

there are all kinds of double breasted and single breasted

versions available with multiple button & beltconfigurations, but the first coat has always been the 5×2

DB cut. Personally, I much prefer the look of this

silhouette over any others.

5. Epaulettes

The infamous shoulder tabs often seen on militaryuniforms also found their way on a trench coat, but they

were not added merely to indicate rank. Much rather, they

were used to secure gas masks, gloves

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/shop/leather-

Single breasted trench coat variation without Raglan sleeves by GG reader

Malcolm Kindness

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Single-

breasted-trench-coat-ariation-without-raglan-sleeves.jpg]


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goods/gloves?limit=all] , or whistles.

6. Gun Patch / StormFlap

The gun patch fulfilled two functions. It could serve as a

gun flap for the recoil of the rifle, but more importantly, it

prevented rain water flowing down the shoulders from

entering the inside of the gun. Personally, I rarely use thisfeature but it can never hurt, I suppose.

Gun Flap or Strom Patch on a Trench Coat

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Gun-Flap-

or-Strom-Patch-on-a-Trench-Coat.jpg]

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Collar-


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7. Hook & Eye and

Throat Latch

ust below the large collar, you will find a hook and eye

that allows you to keep easily your collar closed up all the

way. It is often secured with a strap and buckle system

that is hidden underneath the collar – also known as a

throat latch. I find it particularly useful to protect myself

from cold winds in combination with a scarf

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com

/shop/scarves?limit=all] .

8. Belt with D-Rings

Initially, the belt with its D-Rings was used to suspend

items of equipment, such as grenades or even swords.

By time trench coat appeared, the sword was already

Collar Hook on a Burberry’s Trench Coat

Hook-on-a-Burberrys-Trench-Coat.jpg]

Belt with D-Rings, Leather Buckle & Storm Pocket

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Belt-with-D-

Rings-Leather-Buckle-Storm-Pocket.jpg]


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merely decorative. Today, the belt enables you to create

an attractive silhouette by defining the waistline. In theory,

you could still use the D-Rings, though the belt loops

might rip off rather quickly.

Trench Coat Throat Latch.

In case you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal,

we just get a small commission. Thanks! [http://target.georiot.com

/Proxy.ashx?TSID=12980&GR_URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com

%2F%3Ftag%3Dgentsgaze-20]


Coat-Throat-Latch..jpg]


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[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentlemen-golden-age-ebook

/?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/valentines-gifts-

for-her?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]


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9. Sleeve Straps

The sleeve straps on the cuffs can be tightened to keepout the elements. I rarely tighten these buckles because it

is a pain to get out of the coat after the fact, but I can see

why they are useful for a cold and rainy day.

10. Deep Yoke Back

Saddle

The deep back yoke allowed the water roll onto the floor

rather than down the back of the wearer. This feature is

not seen on many other garments and as such, it is

unique to the trench.

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/valentines-gifts-for-him

/?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]

Button to Close the Wedged Vent

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Button-

to-Close-the-Wedged-Vent.jpg]


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11. Wedge Back

For soldiers to be able to move quickly, every trench coat

had a vent. To keep you dry and warm, it was tailored with

a wedge.

I can attest from personal experience, that wedged vents

Trench Coat with High Collar, Deep Yoke Back, Belt with D-Rings & Wedged

Back Vent


Coat-with-High-Collar-Deep-Yoke-Back-Belt-with-D-Rings-Wedged-Back-Vent.jpg]


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are great because they continue to block the wind and

rain while allowing added movement. If you do not like

the look of it, you can always button it up.

12. Through StormPockets

The storm pockets can be buttoned up from the outside to

keep out the rain. All proper trench coats have through

pockets than can be reached from the inside and outside.

I like this feature when traveling because I can wear the

coat buttoned or unbuttoned, and I always have access to

my wallet, passport, etc.


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13. Leather Buckles

Leather buckles were available back then, and I like the

look of them though technically metal buckles would

perform just as well, if not better in the long run. Since the

buckles are often handled , leather is often worn in this

location, especially on vintage garments.

14. Checked Lining

Traditional Leather Buckled Sleeve Straps

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Traditional-

Leather-Buckled-Sleeve-Straps.jpg]

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Through-

Pockets-with-Classic-Burberry-House-Tartan.jpg]


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Traditionally, trench coats feature a checked lining.

Burberry now offers six different checks in various sizes.

The Equestrian Knight pattern is characteristic, but the

classic house check is probably the most widespread for

trench coats, and it features the tan, black, white and red

tartan without any branding.

Aquascutum introduced their hallmark club check lining

“Club 92” in 1967, which is now also known as

the Aquascutum Club.

For the cooler days, a removable wool lining can be

attached with buttons (for coats with this option), which

makes it all the more versatile. My old non-Burberry

“Made in England” coat has a lovat green

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/lovat-green-summer-

acket/] liner that is made of 95% wool with 5% camel

Through Pockets with Classic Burberry House Tartan

Aquascutum Club Check Lining “Club 92.”


Club-Check-Lining.jpg]


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hair, and I can recommend it.

15. Made in England

The original coats were made in England, but as you

probably know by now, quality is not limited to a

particular country [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com

/made-in-the-usa-quality/] , and you can find both crap

and high quality just about anywhere.

Burberry makes most of their coats in Turkey nowadays

and Aquascutum in Italy. Both are fashion brands, as is

Mackintosh. Hancock provides rubberized coats, but I am

sure a tailor could make them for [] you too. Burberrys’

Trench Coat from Pre 1999 were usually made in England

but take a look at the buying section below for more

details.

Trench Coat Fit


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Most trenches are not worn skin tight since they were

worn over other garments, such as uniforms, suits, etc.

ust like with any garment, you have to decide how you

want to wear it.

If you wish to wear a suit underneath of it, bring a suit

when you try coats on, and wear it both with and without

your suit coat. Also, decide whether you want a

detachable liner or not, as it is not easy to add one in after

the fact.

The sleeve should reach to the root of your thumb, so

your sleeves underneath are covered completely, and

your shirt [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/the-shirt-

guide/] cuff remain out of view when you move around.

Anything longer than that will make you look like you

haven’t yet made it to the alterations tailor.

How To Choose the

Right Trench Coat

Length

Bear in mind, there is not one traditional length. Ads and

pictures from back in the day range from above the knee

Steve McQueen in Blue Trench Coat 1963

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Steve-

McQueen-in-Trench-Coat-1963.jpg]


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to the mid-calf and sometimes even to the ankle.

The most versatile coats are worn at about knee length.

Short Men

Simply choose what feels right to you tough bear in mind

that an ankle-length coat might be overwhelming for a

smaller frame while an above-the-knee coat will

help elongate your legs.

Tall Men

The opposite is true for taller men, who should avoid

short coats that would only elongate the legs further.

I am 6′ / 183cm tall, and my Burberrys’ Trench coats reach

ust below the knee, and my third coat is knee length. I

probably prefer the below-the-knee versions, but that’s

ust personal taste.

Trench Coat Alterations

As with most garments on the rack, keep in mind that you

can make them smaller by one or two sizes, but rarelybigger. Never have extreme alterations done since it will

distort proportions of belt line, buttons, pockets, etc., and

you will look unintentionally [] awkward, despite all your

efforts.

Where to Buy aTrench Coat?

Basically, you have three options.


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1. Used coats. Old Burberrys’ or Aquascutum coats are

the real deal and should last you for years, as I can attest,

but it may be tedious or expensive to find one in good

condition. I happened to spot my first one for 125 EUR in a

men’s vintage store in Germany, so it’s worth investigating

what you like and keep an eye for it. Alternatively, you can

take a look on eBay [http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-

budget] , where you can always find a plethora of

different trench coats.

2. Off the Rack. Obviously it is the easiest and quickest

route to buy a new trench coat at a store. Burberry still

Aquascutum Kingsgate Trench Coat


Kingsgate-Trench-Coat.jpg]


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carries their original styles, but it will set you back about

$1800 [http://us.burberry.com/store/trench-coats/mens-

trench-coats/london/prod-36548881-long-cotton-

gabardine-trench-coat/] or 750£

[http://www.aquascutum.co.uk/] for Aquascutum. As I

mentioned in the used section, they do tend to last, so

they might be a good piece to invest in and treat with care.

In any case, there is a good resale market for Burberry

trenches. However, smaller companies like Francis

Campelli [http://www.franciscampelli.com/] , also produce

quality garments according to our British readers.

3. Bespoke. If your tailor can source the right kind of

gaberdine and the wool liner as well as the pattern, a

custom trench is certainly an option that is hardly more

expensive than the established brands.

How To Buy A Used

Burberry TrenchCoat

Burberry is the most well-known brand when it comes to

Trench Coats. Hence we pub together this mini-guide on

How To Buy a Burberry Trench:

Not All Burberry

Trenches Are Alike –Get A Burberrys’

It’s important to know that Burberrys to BURBERRY in

Click to see a selection of 80+ Trench Coats [http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-budget]


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1999. Most gentlemen prefer the pre-1999 trench coats to

post-1999 versions because they were almost completely

made in England. Today, BURBERRY is more of a fashion

brand than a provider of top quality garments.

Burberrys’ vs. BURBERRY

Fortunately, it’s very easy to distinguish the coats:

The pre-1999 trench coats have a label that reads

Burberrys’ with an s and ‘ at the end. The font is usually

white on a navy or dark blue label.

Trench coats with a BURBERRY label without the S are

post-1999 and mostly made in Italy, Turkey, Malaysia.

1.

Other Burberry Labels

Tom complicate matters, the company has a number of

other labels which are also used for Trench Coats:

BURBERRY BLACK LABEL and BURBERRY BLUE LABEL

are made tailored for Japanese customers under license

Burberrys’ pre-1999 Made in England Label

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Burberrys-

Made-in-England.jpg]


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by Sanyo Shokai. While a few of them are made in Japan,

the bulk of these trench coats is made in China. I would

recommend you stay clear of those.

BURBERRY PRORSUM is the high-end label of the

company. It is generally more fashion forward with a price

tag to match. If you find one you like, go for it, though it

has not much to do with the traditional British Trench

Coat Burberrys’ was famous for.

Recommendation – go with pre 1999Burberrys’

My favorite trench coats are the ones made pre 1999 with

Burberrys’ labels. They are generally well made, last a long

time and they are simply the real deal.

The details below pertain to these pre 1999 trench coats

only!

Sizing

The sizing of Burberry Trench coats can be very confusing.

Well fitting Trench Coat worn by Alain Delon

[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/alain-delon-gentleman-style/]


Coat-Guide.jpg]


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On top of that, trench coat cuts have varied over the years.

Therefore it is extremely important to go by

measurements especially if you buy a trench coat on eBay

[http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-budget] or online in

general, because otherwise you may end up with

something that looks like a potato sack.

Old Burberrys’ Trench Coats come in a rather unusual

sizing system that is a mix between the U.S./UK sizing and

continental European sizing. The size is always marked on

a white size label inside the left pocket in the “NAME” field.

Size 50 equals U.S./UK size 40. The additions of REG, S or L

pertain to the length of the trench coat., For example tall

people should usually go with a L or REG version but

they can still go with S if you prefer a very short trench

coat. The problem might be that that sleeve length is not

long enough. On the other hand, a short person may want

to go with REG instead of S and have the coat and sleeves

shortened. Always bear in mind that changing too much

will make you look weird because the proportions of your

garment will be off.

To help you find the right size, check out this table. Bear in

mind that exact measurements are more accurate than

any sizing!

REG

Burberry

Sizing

44

REG

46

REG

48

REG

50

REG

52

REG

54

REG

56

REG

58

REG

U.S. / UK

Sizing

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

European

Sizing

44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58


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S

Burberry

Sizing

44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

U.S. / UK

Sizing

34 S 36 S 38 S 40 S 42 S 44 S 46 S 48 S

European

Sizing

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

L

Burberry

Sizing

44 L 46 L 48 L 50 L 52 L 54 L 56 L 58 L

U.S. / UK

Sizing

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

European

Sizing

90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118

Authentic or Fake

Burberry?

Due to the popularity of the Trench Coat and the Burberry

brand, you will occasionally counterfeited Burberry trench

coats. Fortunately, most fakes are of low quality and

relatively easy to spot. These are the things you should

pay attention to:

Neat Stitching: Genuine Burberry trench coats

feature neat seams and stitching. For example the belt

loops are carefully reinforced with a little square stitch

whereas fakes often feature sloppy stitching and little

1.


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to no attention to detail.

Matching Nova Check Pattern: On genuine

Burberrys’ Trench coats the Nova Check lining

matches up neatly and it is always in the colors beige,

white, black and red. Different colors or mismatched

checks are a hallmark of fakes.

2.

White Size Label: Genuine pre-1999 trench coats

have a white label in the left pocket with a Name and

Order field. The size is always in the Name field. On

the liner, the size label is hidden underneath the navy

blue Burberrys label. If you cannot find these labels

and they were not removed, it is a fake.

3.

Quality Gabardine Fabric: The Burberry Gabardine is

very hard wearing and anything but flimsy. You can

find it in 100% cotton, 51% Cotton 49% Polyester and

67% Polyester 33% Cotton. Every other compositions

are not genuine.

4.

When to Wear &

When Not to Weara Trench Coat?

Today, I would wear it for all kinds of daywear activities,

except formal morning dress

[http://www.morningdressguide.com] . It is appropriate

with casual wear as well as business suits, and it is an ideal

travel companion due to its moderate to light weight,

water repellency, and versatility. Despite its manifold uses,

please bear in mind that the trench coat is not appropriate

for formal evening wear such as black tie or white tie.


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REPLIES

Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 10, 2012 at 11:11 AM

You are right. It stands corrected now.

guerrasNovember 9, 2012 at 7:15 PM

It is not Salvador Dali, it is Peter Sellers in Pink

Panther.

Sorry, but that is a silly mistake : )

Ahmed SajeelNovember 9, 2012 at 10:42 PM

Deliciously elaborate … well done and thank you

55


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He definitely has a strong resemblance but I

don’t think we ever fought as a soldier, so it

could only be a movie. Any hints in that matter

are appreciated.

Mark HewittOctober 29, 2015 at 12:59 AM

My hunch this is from the movie ”

Sergeant York ” a 1941 film directed by

Howard Hawks starring Gary Cooper (

he in the photo ) for which he won an

Oscar for best actor.

F-M ChaballierNovember 10, 2012 at 7:09 AM

I think the soldier pictured in the 15th picture is

Gary Cooper. Can someone confirm?

Mark SeitelmanNovember 13, 2012 at 9:33 AM

The photo of the soldier is probably Gary Cooper.

It could be from his famous film, “Sergeant York.”

The trench coat has endured as a classic. In

comparison, another military coat, the British

warm, is rarely seen. It was once very popular and

was available in classic clothiers. This is no longer

the case, but all classic clothiers carry trench

coats.

I have a couple of classic English trench coats as

well as a few more “fashion forward” models


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Thanks for your comment, Mark. We discussed

the Gary Cooper question on Facebook and

basically, two movies were suggested. I have

not taken a look at the myself yet, so I cannot

confirm

which do not religiously follow all of the detailing

and fabric choices. For example, I have a couple of

Alan Flusser raincoats in a bamboo microfiber.

These were made in Italy.

It is interesting that in view of the detailing and

expensive materials (quality cotton exterior and

interior and leather buckles), an authentic trench

coat can be over $1,500.

Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart offer excellent

trench coats under their own label. I would say

that Paul Stuart’s coat is excellent.

submariinerNovember 13, 2012 at 10:11 PM

My navy color trench issued from the coast guard

does plenty of double duty work in the civilian

world.

JamesNovember 15, 2012 at 1:20 AM

Hello, could you please answer this question

concerning where to buy a bespoke one?


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Trackbacks & Pingbacks

Pitti Uomo 87 — Gentleman's Gazette January 19, 2016 at 11:34 PM

1.

http://b.qr.ae/W8v7t8

Ray FrenshamNovember 15, 2012 at 6:04 PM

Excellent study – I am still reading through it.

Bravo……..

Eventually you should collate all these wise words

(on various garments) and bring them out as a

book….. (I bags write the Foreword!).

nik Ismail almurtadzaNovember 18, 2012 at 12:55 AM

What are other brands that’s worthy of

mentioning?

murtadza

BradNovember 18, 2012 at 6:25 PM

At least two men seem to be dead in the trench

while others are stepping over their bodies… But

sorry, we’re talking of Aquascutum and Burberry’s.

We may appreciate those (too expensive)

garments but I’m afraid the picture is quiteinappropriate.


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CharlesDecember 27, 2012 at 5:22 PM

I don’t think the Bogie promo shot #13 is from

Casablanca. This still from Casablanca shows a

coat with set shoulders and two gun flaps – the

Aquascutum Kingsway – while the shot of Bogart

has raglan sleeves and only a right-hand gun flap.

http://thechicspy.com/wp-content/uploads

/2012/03/Bogart-Bergman-Casablanca-1942.jpg

Sven Raphael SchneiderDecember 27, 2012 at 11:05 PM

Charles, thank you for your comment! Could it be

that he wore an Aquascutum and that he later

switched to Burberry? I am pretty sure that the

last picture is in fact from Casablance, see here

NikolaosDecember 28, 2012 at 10:48 PM

apart from the standard british trench coat

houses, one can find excellent examples of the

garment at the italian allegri and american –

japanese sanyo

Dan January 20, 2013 at 3:00 PM

If you ever find yourself in London then the

Burberry and Aquascutum outlets are great

places to pick up a trench coat for significantly

less than the regular price. I bought mine

(admittedly in the sale) in for third of the price it


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Sven Raphael Schneideranuary 21, 2013 at 12:05 AM

Thanks for the hint Dan, can you share a

specific address with us?

Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 28, 2015 at 11:43 PM

You can still find them on ebay occasionally. On

their website they seem to offer some “trench

coats” with double gun flap, so obviouly they

are more fashion forward now.

should have been.

The two store are next to each other in the middle

of a somewhat run down industrial in Hackney.

Worth making the trip though.

peterOctober 28, 2015 at 9:13 PM

What about London Fog trench coats? They were

made in America, I have not seen them lately.

Thanks for the great article.

LAStyleGuyOctober 28, 2015 at 11:05 PM

Loved your article on trench coats. But as an

owner of a vintage Burberry trench, I’m afraid

you’re incorrect–they no longer make their

traditional model . Everything today is higher style,

and above-the-knee versions. I’m babying my real


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Sven Raphael Schneider

October 28, 2015 at 11:41 PM

Well, they always had plenty of different

models with different cuts. Yes, they do not

make the pre-1999 style ones, but I would still

call them a trench coat. But as highlighted in

the article, the pre-1999 is my favorite too.

Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 29, 2015 at 9:53 AM

Yes it was!

classic 100% cotton gabardine model, and hope it

lasts a lifetime, because I’m afraid I’ll never be

able to replace it.

Old SchoolOctober 29, 2015 at 12:29 AM

Was the shop in Hamburg Rudolf Beaufays?

One of my favorites.

(Known to the local expat crowd as “Dead

Englishmen”)

AdamOctober 29, 2015 at 5:16 AM

The one problem that I have with Trench Coats is

that I always seem to lose the belts.

I have a very hard time when trying to locate

replacements (even when contacting makers) –

colour matching seems to be a particular problem

for me, and I do not like compromising on a belt


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Get one with D-Rings because that prevents the

belt from coming out of the loops.


I am glad to hear they still do that! I wonder

how many different patterns they offer and if

they can supply the old fabric qualities etc.

that is not quite the same colour/shade as the

original.

Do you have any suggestions?

Carl

October 29, 2015 at 7:47 AM

Great article.

At Burberrys HQ store in London you can have a

trench coat made up to your own design using

their old patterns, so you can add or subtract D

rings, gun flaps etc or just choose an original WWI

design.

With anniversaries of WWI battles and the

Anglo-Irish War (where they were popular with

Guerillas operating as Flying Columns, many

being WWI veterans as well as Auxilaries and

Black & Tans) and 1916 Rising commemorations

coming up no doubt the trench will remain a hot

product in style terms.


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Frank GadsonOctober 29, 2015 at 11:26 AM

Excellent information thanks so very much!

Greg from ChathamOctober 29, 2015 at 8:44 PM

Absolutely an incredible amount of information —

and great photographs — in this article!

Well done!

PrincipeOctober 30, 2015 at 11:35 AM

Dear Sven – got my pre-1999 Burberrys at an

(Anglican) Church of England thrift shop for $1

(Cdn)! I highly recommend Anglican thrift shops in

Canada and the USA, plus the Oxfam shops in the

Home Counties (UK). Thank you for a most

excellent and informative article, I really learned a

lot for future “expeditions.”

JoeOctober 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM

I tried to leave a comment on the Burberry

trenches earlier, but it seems to have gotten lost.

My apologies if this ends up being a duplicate.

Looking at Burberry’s web site, I see the Heritage

collection prominently displayed and in that

collection is the Westminster, a long, traditional

trench. Here is the description they provide:

…”classic fit trench coat, The Westminster is


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tailored to the body with a generous cut.

The coat is made in England from weatherproof

cotton gabardine, invented by Thomas Burberry in

1879.”

https://us.burberry.com/the-westminster-

long-heritage-trench-coat-p39066901

Now, I don’t know the older ones so I’ll defer to

you folks who own them and know them well, but

this description seems to contradict the

comments above that say everything is high style,

above the knee, not made of cotton gabardine,

etc.

I’d love to own a previously enjoyed, well cared forclassic Burberry for a song, but as with all such

things, getting my larger size, a genuine article, in

a color I want, with no rotting leather buckle

covers, etc… all seems rather dicey. And while I’ve

done some good business on eBay, it’s a

treacherous place sometimes. I wanted a Beck

Diplomat shoe polisher and I wanted to be sure it

would be something I would actually use and

enjoy before I spent nearly $300 on a new one.

eBay supplied a reasonable one for $60 and while

it isn’t perfect, I now know how awesome they are

and if I want perfection, I will gladly pay full retail. I

don’t have to do that with a Burberry trench as

there is a Burberry retail store nearby for me to

try them on with my suit on, etc., as this article

suggests. I like getting a deal but if I’m wearing it

in public, it needs to be up to my standards. I think

the Westminster in Navy would be my choice.


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Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 31, 2015 at 1:57 PM

Thanks for sharing Joe, this is indeed a made in

England coat. The old ones did not have the

undercollar check and $1895 is steep for cotton

gabardine but hey, it is an attractive cut for

sure.

That being said, it’s not difficult to find big sizes

because they were often cut large…

ps: when you post links, comments are held for

moderation because we get about 3,000 spam

comments a day and so we need to filter by

certain criteria.

Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 1, 2015 at 8:22 PM

Dennis, I am glad to hear that. Well done!

DennisNovember 1, 2015 at 5:07 PM

Mate,

Thank you so much for the article! Armed with

this information, I went hunting for a trench coat

and you cannot imagine my delight when I found

a Burberrys not only in my size but also in near

mint condition for just over $200 at the very first

op shop I visited! The label says “Made in England

for Harrods”, but Google tells me that’s fine

LBNovember 3, 2015 at 7:50 AM


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Each to his own.

I would get rid of the emblems on the epaulettes. I

don’t think anyone would believe that you were in

the British Army, and it’s a bit like wearing the

regalia of a college that you didn’t attend. Even as

a former soldier, I would probably keep any

references to my old regiment down to switching

the buttons. I think you rather lessen the

authenticity when you add emblems to a piece of

clothing that don’t really have anything to do with

you.

MikeNovember 4, 2015 at 12:47 AM

A lot of nonsense in this “article” regarding

German trench coats in WW2. We shouldn’t wear

black leather trench coats? Absurd, the roads are

clogged with Mercedes Benz autos. One can’t see

it in black and white photos, but German army

officers wore field green leather trench coats, air

force was light grey, Nazi party officials wore

brown, SS officers wore black.

PrincipeNovember 14, 2015 at 1:49 PM

Dear Sven- further to my remarks of 30

October…on 12 November specifically went

hunting for a new (ie, used) trenchcoat at a large


59 2/11/2016


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Well, it is not unlikely that they worked for

Austin Reed.

2nd hand store here in Canada and found an Yves

St Laurent for $8.99 Cdn! The only thing lacking is

the belt. Now to find one with D rings and

matching khaki colour……. and thank you again for

your most informative article. Looking fwd to

reading more of your posts.

LisaNovember 25, 2015 at 2:12 PM

Hi there,

I came across your great article while doing some

research about the vintage burberry’s trench I

found at a garage sale.

Mine fits all the details of your pre-1999 above,

however not only does it have a navy blue

Burberry’s label, it also has an Austin reed label

seen just under it.

I can’t find anything about Burberry’s making

coats for Austin Reed. Do you have any thoughts

on this? Thanks!

Jack WuDecember 27, 2015 at 10:17 PM

May I ask why one should steer clear of Chinese

made coats? Where is your iPhone made? Do you

own any Chinese made Burberry products? If so,

was the quality so bad that it made you feel the


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Sven Raphael SchneiderDecember 30, 2015 at 12:24 PM

ack, I do neither use an iphone nor a made in

China Burberry trench coat. I just visited China

for several weeks and the level of quality I

encountered often leaves a lot to be desired.

Yes, I felt the need to warn our readersbecause they do not stack up at the moment.

If you read our articles, you will see that we

strongly believe that you can find quality

anywhere. That being said, most ready made

clothing and things like ties and pocket squares

are still way off from European standards.

However, that may change in the future. 100

years ago, Made in Germany was perceived in a

similar way as Made in China is now, but Made

in Germany today is often perceived as

excellence. Who knows maybe a few years

down the road China will have better products.

Today, you find more bad Chinese products

than good ones in my experience.

Jack WuDecember 30, 2015 at 11:03 PM

Perhaps that is true of many cheaply

made Chinese products, of which

similar quality I’m sure you can find

manufactured in any country–however

need to warn others about products from my

country?

Little tired of and offended by hearing of the awful

quality of Chinese made products, as QC has

improved greatly in the last decade.


59 2/11/2016


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we are not talking about the quality of

clothing in general. You warned your

readers about Chinese made Burberry

Black/Blue label products; so I ask you

about your experience specifically with

Chinese made Burberry Black/Blue

label products. If, as you now claim,

you have no experience with Chinese

made Burberry Black/Blue products, I

would expect you to retract your

statement. As you have admitted

yourself, quality can be found

anywhere, much like my example of

Chinese made iPhones (and I’m sure

there are many other examples).

When it comes to quality, really the

most important thing is experience and

QC. Apple is able to produce such a

polished product in China because of

tight QC. You assume Burberry is not

able to do the same with their

suppliers?

Sven Raphael

SchneiderDecember 31, 2015 at 2:30 PM

ack,

I suggest you read what I write

before claiming I said

something I did not.

I never said I had no experience

with Chinese Burberry

Trenchcoat, I said I do not use

them, that is a huge difference.


59 2/11/2016


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[…] first began making rain proof outerwear for

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and that the […]

2.

Quilted Jackets Guide - How to Buy, History & Details —3.

I have been to China

and I have seen

China-made Trench

coats in person, I tried

them on and inspected

them closely and I do

not want them because

the workamnship, the

fabric and the cut were

not flattering in any

way.

Of course, you are

welcome to write your

own article about

Chinese trench coats on

your own website, but

at this point the quality

of Chinese Burberry

Trenchcoats is not

worth being

recommended, in my

opinion. Maybe that will

change in the future.


59 2/11/2016


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[…] perfect companion to the umbrella on a rainy day is

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[…] clothing has heavily influenced classic men’s

clothing. For example, the British Warm, the Trench Coat

as well as the Guards […]

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[…] overcoats from WWI, the British Warm was adapted

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