TRANSFORM YOUR HOME, THE EASY WAY

We are constantly updating our range, adding and occasionally discontinuing products. To view our full current range, and up to date pricing, visit our website at www.ukhomeinteriors.co.uk

HOW TO ORDERSimply call us on 0121 449 8525, or order online at www.ukhomeinteriors.co.uk

TERMS & CONDITIONSFor full terms & conditions please visit our website www.ukhomeinteriors.co.uk

TRANSFORM YOUR HOME, THE EASY WAY.

ANTIQUE WOOD EFFECT RANGE GUIDEBY UKHOMEINTERIORS

TRANSFORM YOUR HOME, THE EASY WAY.

27 WOODBRIDGE ROAD MOSELEY BIRMINGHAM B13 8EHT: 0121 449 8525 E: [email protected]

01/19

Antique beams and oak timbers could transform your home.

Now that transformation can be achieved in a fraction of the time and at a fraction of the cost of original oak, without losing any of the beauty and intricate detail of hand worked, antique timbers.

Our range is made from modern materials in moulds taken from carefully selected original oak timbers. Every detail is preserved. Every piece is finished by hand. They not only look authentic but sound and feel authentic, too.Unlike oak though, our products are lightweight and easy to cut. This means that installation can be achieved with relative ease.

Transform your home the easy way, with ukhomeinteriors.

5

• Lightweight and easy to install.• Durable and shock resistant.

• Moulded from original antique oak beams.• Unlike wood, will not ‘move’ after installation.• Handfinished in a variety of finish options. (see page 20).

4

BEAMS

The beauty of antique oak without the drawbacks.

MAIN BEAMS

INTERMEDIATE BEAMS JOISTS

Our most popular main beam, available in 4 lengths, all with a beautifully ‘gnarled’ appearance.

Length: 5460mm (full length) 3660mm (2/3 length) 2730mm (1/2 length) 1800mm (1/3 length)Width: 170mmDepth: 260mm (max) / 190mm (min)Internal width: 115mm (min)Internal depth: 120mm (min)

Colour OptionsAll beams are available in Jacobean Oak (as standard), Black, Mahogany, Light Oak, Mellow Oak or Limed Oak. We can also stain to match a sample you supply, or supply as unfinished for you to paint. For details and costs see page 20.

Simulated Rivetted Iron StrapFor joining Intermediate Beams. Made from rubber and silver/grey in colour, these are 1m long and can easily be cut to size and used for multiple joints.

Main Beam 1

Main Beam 2

Intermediate Beam (old style) 6ft Joists

End Grain Panel

Shallower than Main Beam 1 and more symmetrical / less gnarled. It is also easy to join 2 lengths together to make a longer beam by simply butt joining and covering the joint with the B2 Simulated Iron Bracket.Length: 3000mmWidth: 175mmDepth: 128mmInternal width: 130mmInternal depth: 110mm

B2 Simulated Iron Bracket

180mm 210mm

140m

m

155mm 150mm

110m

m

295mm

295mmRSJFire

ProtectionCladding

The Beam Cladding Plankwith chamfer removed, for soffit

Main Beam 3Similar in appearance to Main Beam 2, but smaller. Easy to join 2 lengths together to make a longer beam by butt joining and covering the joint with the B3 Simulated Iron Bracket.

Length: 2440mmWidth: 125mmDepth: 100mmInternal width: 70mmInternal depth: 65mm

B3 Simulated Iron Bracket

180mm 210mm

140m

m

155mm 150mm

110m

m

295mm

295mmRSJFire

ProtectionCladding


Used where a beam end is left exposed, scribed to the shape of the beam. Filling and staining required. Factory fit recommended.

Height: 325mmWidth: 325mmDepth: 10mm

Beautifully ‘gnarled’, these are moulded on all four sides so can also be used as posts when all four sides are visible. They can also be supplied split down their lengths to make shallower, half depth beams.

Length: 3720mm Width: 150mmDepth: 150mm

Intermediate Beam (new style)

More symmetrical and less gnarled than the Old Style Intermediate Beams, these are also moulded on 4 sides and can also be supplied split lengthways to half depth.

Length: 3720mm Width: 150mmDepth: 130mm

Supplied as 6 different models to avoid repetition.Length: 1800mmWidth: 75mmDepth: 75mm

6ft 6" Joists

Supplied as 3 different models to avoid repetition.

Length: 2000mmWidth: 70mmDepth: 50mm

10ft Joists

Supplied as 3 different models to avoid repetition.Generally cut down to make 2 x 5ft joists or can be used for 7 to 8ft joists (rarely used as 10ft)


NEED HELP WITH DESIGN / LAYOUT?On the following pages you will find guidelines on how to design your ceiling layout. If you need some help though, just give us a call on 0121 449 8525 with your ceiling dimensions and an idea of the effect you are trying to achieve.

FOR SAMPLES PHONE 0121 449 8525. ALLOW 28 DAYS FOR DELIVERY. SIZES MAY VARY MINIMALLY FROM THOSE SHOWN. FOR SAMPLES PHONE 0121 449 8525. ALLOW 28 DAYS FOR DELIVERY. SIZES MAY VARY MINIMALLY FROM THOSE SHOWN.

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BEAM CORBELS

Joist CorbelHeight: 250mmWidth: 75mmProjection: 250mm

Hammer Beam CorbelAlso available as the leg only.Height: 455mmWidth: 125mmProjection: 380mm

Add corbels for a perfect finishing touch.

Designed to be used with the Hammer Beam Corbel when additional decoration is required. We supply as a selection of mixed figures.Height: 440mm Width: 180mm Depth: 90mm

Medieval Figure

Designed to be cut into 2 and used either end of your beam. Using one half vertically and the other horizontally can make an attractive feature.

Height: 915mm Width: 150mm Projection: 150mm

Main/Intermediate Beam Corbel

DESIGNING A BEAMED CEILINGThe primary design objective is to look realistic. To achieve this realism your ceiling will be made up from 1, 2 or 3 sizes of beam:1. Main beams 2. Intermediate beams 3. Joists

Start with the larger size and work down. The simplest design is to use only a main beam. This is realistic as sometimes smaller beams and joists were covered by plasterwork. This is more desirable than running a scheme with too few additional beams and joists which will look unrealistic.Most people, however, build a network of intermediate beams and/or joists running from their main beam by following a few simple rules.

MAIN BEAM(S):• Should cross the room at

its narrower dimension.• Can be centrally

positioned, or be offset.• Smaller intermediate

beams and/or joists are built up from the main beam.

• Rooms up to 16ft (4.87m) long require only one main beam. If your room measures much over 16ft (4.87m) you will need to incorporate either intermediate beam(s) or more main beam(s).

This is because traditionally joists were between 5ft (1.52m) and 6ft 6" (1.98m) long. They were never longer than 8ft (2.44m) as over this length they would be too small to carry the weight of the floor running over it.

INTERMEDIATE BEAM(S):• Are used when the area

between your main beam or beams and wall is greater than 8ft (2.44m).

• Run off your main beam at a 90 degree angle.

• Can run from one or both sides of the main beam.

• If running from both sides they can run from the same point, or be offset from each other.

• Can also be used as the principal beam in a small or low room.

JOISTS:• Run off your main and/

or intermediate beams at 90 degree angles.

• Should be generally between 5ft (1.52m) and 6ft 6” (1.98m) long and not be longer than 8ft (2.44m).

• Would traditionally be fitted around 16” (40cm) apart (centre to centre), although up to 24” (61cm) looks realistic. (If you wish to place joists further apart we recommend that you use one of the half depth intermediate beams spaced at 39” (1m) to 47” (1.2m) centres.)

A

F

A (2/3 length) x 2F x 6H x 4 (cut into thirds)

Touch up kit

A (2/3 length) x 1C x 1 F x 8H x 3 (cut in half)

Touch up kit

B x 2 H x 6 (cut in half)

Touch up kit

B

H

13ft x 8ft room

A

H

F

C

12ft x 12ft room

A

H H

F

12ft x 12ft room

A (2/3 length) x 1D x 2 F x 16

Touch up kit

A (2/3 length) x 2

D x 1 (cut in half)F x 12 H x 4 (cut in half)

Touch up kit

B x 1 E x 1G x 2 (cut in half)H x 4 (cut in half)

Touch up kit

B

H

E

GD

D

A

H

F

D

A

F

F

13ft x 8ft room 18ft x 12ft room 18ft x 12ft room

A FEW LAYOUT OPTIONS:Here are a few common layout options. Whilst these are all symmetrical you can add asymmetry easily, but don’t forget that the ‘gnarled’ finish of the product adds asymmetry in itself.

A Main Beam 1

B Main Beam 2

C Main Beam 3

D Intermediate Beam (Old)

E Intermediate Beam (New)

F 6ft Joists

G 6ft 6” Joists

H 10ft Joists 8ft = 2.44m 12ft = 3.66m 13ft = 3.96m 18ft = 5.49m

B x 1 G x 8

Touch up kit

B

G

13ft x 8ft room

D or E x 2G x 8 (cut in half) H x 3 (cut into thirds)

Touch up kit

D or E

G

G

H

12ft x 12ft room

A (2/3 length) x 1D (half depth) x 3 (cut in half)

Touch up kit

12ft x 12ft room

D

A

FOR SAMPLES PHONE 0121 449 8525. ALLOW 28 DAYS FOR DELIVERY. SIZES MAY VARY MINIMALLY FROM THOSE SHOWN.

98

COVERING AN RSJ

If you have an RSJ it will generally be covered with plasterboard and be of a size that will dictate that it becomes your main beam. (Building regulations actually now require new RSJ’s be clad in plasterboard to protect them from fire.)We have 3 options to cover it:a. The Great Beam (the size of this is better suited to

larger rooms with large RSJ’s).b. Beam Cladding Planks.c. Sometimes our standard main beams can cover

smaller RSJ’s or pipes (see the internal specification information shown with each product).

Length: 6300mmWidth: 300mmDepth: 300mmInternal width: 200mm (min)Internal depth: 260mm (min)

Great Beam (3/4 length)Length: 4800mmWidth: 300mmDepth: 300mmInternal width: 200mm (min)Internal depth: 260mm (min)

Great Beam (1/2 length)Length: 3200mmWidth: 300mmDepth: 300mmInternal width: 200mm (min)Internal depth: 260mm (min)

Great Beam (full length)

Beam Cladding Plank (full length)


Beam Cladding Plank (3/4 length)Length: 4000mmWidth: 345mmDepth: 35mm

Beam Cladding Plank (1/2 length)Length: 2925mmWidth: 345mmDepth: 35mm

180mm 210mm

140m

m

155mm 150mm

110m

m

295mm

295mmRSJFire

ProtectionCladding


Low CeilingsIf your ceilings are low you can reduce the impact of your beams by using the Half Depth Intermediate Beam as your main beam, and running planks off it, rather than joists. This will give the impression of the beams and joists being part buried in the ceiling plasterwork. (See following section on wall planking for plank details.)


MAIN BEAM 1 WITH INTERMEDIATE BEAMS & JOISTS PLUS HAMMER BEAM CORBELS WITH MEDIEVAL FIGURES.

BEAM CLADDING PLANKS BEAMS UNFINISHED (WHITE BASE READY FOR PAINTING).

1110

8" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 200mm Depth: 20mm

7" PlankLength: 3000mm Width: 180mm Depth: 20mm





Mock Oak PegsTo add authenticity, and/or to simply cover nail or screw heads, why not use our Mock Oak Pegs. They are supplied as a sheet of 64 pegs for you to cut as required.

• Handfinished in a variety of finish options. (see page 20).

• Lightweight and easy to install.

• Durable and shock resistant.

• Ideal for use on walls, doors, sills and window frames.

• Moulded from original antique oak.

• Authentic ‘hand hewn’ effect mouldings.

• Unlike wood, will not ‘move’ after installation.

WALL PLANKS


A FEW LAYOUT IDEAS FOR A 12FT LONG WALL:

9 = 7" plank. 10 = mix of 3", 4" and 5" planks - these are fitted randomly. Generally half would be 5" and a quarter each, 3" and 4". 11 = plate rack. 12 = cottage shelf .


11

10

11

10

11

12

10

10

9

9

1 Main Beam 12 New Style

Intermediate Beam3 Half Depth Old Style

Intermediate Beam4 Joists5 Hammer Beam Corbel

with Medieval Figure6 Planks 7 Cottage Plate Rack

1

5

6

2

3

4

7

1312







Mock Oak PegsTo add authenticity, and/or to simply cover nail or screw heads, why not use our Mock Oak Pegs. They are supplied as a sheet of 64 pegs for you to cut as required.

*Please note that wood stain colours are not UV stable and will fade, albeit naturally, over time. The picture to the right shows Jacobean Oak after some years.

• Handfinished in a variety of finish options (see page 20).*



• Perfect for mock Tudor and all types of exterior wall planking effects.


• Weather resistant.• Authentic ‘hand hewn’

effect mouldings.

EXTERIOR WALL PLANKS



WALL PANELLING, SEE OVERLEAF

14

• Moulded from original antique oak timbers.


• Handfinished in a variety of finish options (see page 20).

• Lightweight and relatively easy to install.


WALL PLANELLING



1

2

2

2

4

3

Large PanelHeight: 1770mm (nets down

to 1730mm when rebate is covered by edging strips)

Width: 460mm (nets down to 440mm when rebate is covered by adjoining panel)

Projection: 20mm

Small PanelHeight: 850mmWidth: 460mm (nets down

to 440mm when rebate is covered by adjoining panel)

Projection: 20mm

Edging StripHeight: 70mm (when used

horizontally) Width: 70mm (when used vertically)

Length: 2700mmProjection: 20mm

The panelling is built up using the following components:1. Edging strip across the bottom

(this usually takes the place of skirting board, but can be placed above a suitable skirting if required). This has a rebate that the panelling sheets sit down onto.

2. Panelling sheets.3. Edging strip across the top.

This has a rebate that sits over the large panelling sheets, but when using small panelling sheets this simply butts up to them.

4. Edging strip fitted vertically at the end of a run of panelling sheets. You will be working from right to left, so this will sit at the left hand edge of the wall.

5. Edging strip fitted vertically if you are running panelling around an obstacle, like a window, to run either side of the obstacle.

6. If you are using large panels many people then like to finish with a plate rail.

These components will result in the following approximate finishing heights:1. Using the large panels you

will achieve an overall height of approximately 1870mm, not including any additional picture rail or skirting (see pic right).

2. Using the small panels you will achieve an overall height of approximately 990mm, not including any additional skirting (see pic on previous page).

So, to order:1. Decide whether you require large

panels for full height panelling, or small panels for half height panelling. Please note that you will only achieve the overall heights shown.

2a Measure (and install) for each wall individually. The working width of each panel is 440mm, and one end will finish with an edging strip which has a 70mm width. In effect you will therefore take the overall width of the wall you wish to panel, deduct 70mm for an Edging Strip, then see how many multiples of 440mm are required, rounding up for the number of panels you need. (Panels are relatively easy to cut to finish to your desired width - see installation instructions for further details on page 22).

2b If you are running panelling under or around an obstacle, like a window, you need to treat the wall either side of the obstacle and the obstacle itself as though they were different walls. In effect you will stop the panelling at the edge of the obstacle with edging strip, and again once you have run around it. So measure and order for each section separately.

3. Repeat this process for each wall.4. Edging Strip is sold in 2.7m

lengths and will be required to run around the total width of your panelling both top and bottom. You will also require edging strip to run the height of your panelling once on each wall you are panelling. You will need additional Edging Strip if you are running panelling around a window or other obstacle - enough to run full height, both sides of the obstacle.

5. Decide whether you require our plate rail to finish.

HOW TO ORDER & INSTALL PANELLING

1 Full depth panels

2 Edging Strip

3 Stuart Plate Rail

4 Wood Effect Cornice 2

17




• Moulded from original antique oak cornice.

• Every detail of the original carving preserved.


16

CORNICE



Height: 145mm Projection: 85mmLength: 2480mm

W E Cornice 3

W E Cornice 5

W E Cornice 2


W E Cornice 1W E Cornice 8

W E Cornice 7

Wood Effect Cornice 1

Height: 95mm Projection: 80mmLength: 2057mmPattern repeats every 1050mm

W E Cornice 3

W E Cornice 5

W E Cornice 2


NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish.Height: 105mm Projection: 85mmLength: 2970mmPattern repeats every 600mm

W E Cornice 3

W E Cornice 5

W E Cornice 2



W E Cornice 6

W E Cornice 4



Height: 170mm Projection: 230mm Length: 3000mm

W E Cor

nice 6

W E Cor

nice 4



W E Cornice 1W E Cornice 8

W E Cornice 7



W E Cornice 1 W E Cornice 8

W E Cornice 7




• Moulded from original antique oak timbers.



SKIRTING & ARCHITRAVE

Wood Effect Skirting 1





Wood Effect Skirting 2Wood Effect Skirting 1












Wood Effect Architrave 2















Wood Effect Railing 3


Architrave 8



NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish.Height: 104mm Projection: 30mmLength: 2500mm







Architrave 7


Height: 178mm Projection: 25mmLength: 2890mm Pattern repeated every 360mm






19





• Moulded from original antique oak railings.



• Moulded from original antique oak railings.



18

RAILING & PLATE RAIL


FIREPLACES, SHELF & CORBELS





Wood Effect Skirting 3Height: 89mm Projection: 19mmLength: 1980mm


Height: 100mm Projection: 110mmLength: 1830m

PLATE RAIL

RAILING

FIREPLACES

SHELF

CORBELS

Architrave 7



Wood Effect Railing 1Wood Effect Railing 3


Architrave 8





Architrave 8






















Stuart Plate Rail

Cottage Plate Rail

Cottage ShelfHeight: 200mm Projection: 170mmLength: 1425mm

Wood Effect Corbel 1 (pair) Height: 180mm Projection: 45mmWidth: 45mm

Wood Effect Corbel 2 Height: 220mm Projection: 75mmWidth: 164mm



Wood Effect Corbel 5Height: 460mm Projection: 283mmWidth: 227mm

Fireplace 2 LEGS: (supplied as 1 piece for you to cut into 2 legs as appropriate):Height: 3720mmWidth: 150mProjection: 130mm

MANTEL: Can be supplied with or without legs

Height: 170mmProjection: 200mm (approx).Width: 1800mm (to your specification - max shown)

2120


These options are:• Unfinished. This allows you to paint to

match your decor should you wish. • 3 lighter oak options: Light Oak,

Mellow Oak, and Limed Oak. • Black. Most commonly used for exterior

mock tudor planking. • Mahogany.• Stain to match a sample that you supply.

FOR SAMPLES PHONE 0121 449 8525

All of the products in this brochure are hand finished to best replicate the antiqued look of old wood. Most of the photography in this brochure show our standard (and most popular) finish, which is Jacobean Oak, but there are other options available.

FINISHES

LIMED OAK MELLOW OAK LIGHT OAK MAHOGANY JACOBEAN OAK BLACK

2322

These products are lightweight and easy to cut and work using good woodworking tools, so installation is relatively easy. Please note that beams are not load bearing. Below is our guide on how to install.

INSTALLATION

EXPOSING THE PRODUCT COREWhilst the surface of these products is finished to look just like wood, a cut section will expose the core. Usually this will be concealed by a joint but where it is not you should use items from the touch-up kit. Where designs include a suspended end i.e. where the end of a piece is fully visible, it is best to order a factory-finished end piece to improve the final appearance.

MAIN BEAMS / GREAT BEAMAs you will see from the profile illustrations shown with each product option, these beams are ‘U’ shaped. Main Beams are best fitted around a soft wood batten cut to the size of this ‘U’. For the Great Beam your RSJ fulfils this purpose although some ‘packing out’ may be required.1. Screw the batten to the ceiling

timbers. Then fit the beam around it using adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where it meets the batten.

2. You should also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet, punching the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit).

3. When joining Main Beams 2 or 3 to make a longer beam simply butt join and cover the joint with the relevant Simulated Iron Bracket (see product page). For other beams call for advice.

4. In order for the beam to touch the wall both sides you will need to ‘manufacture’ some room for manoeuvre. There are two methods for doing this.

PLATE RAILS AND COTTAGE SHELFThe cottage shelf is supplied with mirror plates for ease of installation. Plate rails fix securely using glue and wall plugs and screws. The screws should be counter sunk beneath the surface, ideally within the carved areas to be less obvious, and filled using the touch-up kit.

WALL PANELLINGAll components are fixed simply by using adhesive and pinning to a flat surface. Most fixings are concealed by the rebated design. Where additional pinning in a visible area is required punch these into the woodgrain and cover with wax from the touch-up kit.

ARRANGING / INSTALLING YOUR PANELLING1. Measure, order and install for

each wall individually.

2. Plan your arrangement of panels before installing as you are likely to need to reduce the width of at least one panel sheet to fit your dimensions (see section right). You can run full width panels from right to left and leave the final panel to be reduced in width. Most people will want a balanced look, in which case both far left and far right hand panels are usually reduced equally, leaving the central panels at full width.

3. Cut your panels to width, if required (see section rigth) and check that you have done so to the correct width before you start installing. Minor errors may be able to be adjusted for within the rebate system of the panels.

a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5” deep on one wall to allow you the manoeuvre room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-plaster up to it.

b. Cut a short 2” - 3” piece from the end of the beam, manoeuvre it into position tight against the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-adhere the cut piece to the end.

5. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit.

INTERMEDIATE BEAMSThese are best fitted to a soft wood batten that has been securely fixed to the ceiling timbers. Decide which face of your beam will fix to the ceiling and cut out a section centrally down its length that will fit over your batten. Then follow points 1. and 2. from the main beams instructions.For half depth intermediate beams you can follow the above instructions or, alternatively, use glue to adhere to the ceiling and also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet (nailing diagonally into the ceiling). Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit).Intermediate Beams join to Main Beams and walls with simple butt joints (any exposed inner core areas will then not be visible). You may need to make some room for manoeuvre in which case follow instruction 4. given in the Main Beams section. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit.

4. Then install your panel sheets. Ensure that you install them at the correct height to accommodate the bottom Edging Strip that you will fit later.Work from right to left along your wall. This will enable you to pin through the left hand edge of each panel sheet, with the right hand rebate on the next sheet covering these fixings. When pinning, as far as is possible, pin through areas that will be covered by the next sheet or by Edging Strip.

5. When you reach the left hand corner or finishing point you will need to finish with a separate Edging Strip. Cut this Edging Strip to the full length of the panelling. You will then mitre a joint, top and bottom, to meet the lengths of Edging Strip that will run top and bottom of your panel sheets.

6. Install an Edging Strip at floor level as skirting (occasionally people install this over a skirting). The rebate on the strip sits over the lower section of the panel sheets, covering any pin heads you have used to install the panel sheets. Mitre at the left hand end where this strip meets your vertical Edging Strip.

7. Install Edging Strip across the top of your panel sheets. With large panels the edging will sit over the rebate on the panel sheets. With small panels the edging will butt join to the panels. Mitre at the left hand end where this strip meets your vertical Edging Strip.

8. Install Plate Rail if required.9. Touch up any areas required

with items from the touch-up Kit.

JOISTS AND PLANKSUse glue and oval-headed nails diagonally every 2 feet. Ensure that the point of the nail is protruding through the back of the joist before you strike it so that it pierces the ceiling plaster immediately, rather than ‘skating’ on the glue. Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit). Use simple close butt joints where ends meet another surface.

CORNICE, ARCHITRAVE, RAILING AND SKIRTINGSome people simply use adhesive, which is fine on smaller mouldings like dado rails. For additional strength, especially with cornices and larger mouldings use small-headed nails also. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit). Traditionally wooden cornices were butt joined and, unlike plaster, the joint was left unfilled.

FIREPLACEFireplace 2 is made up from products from our beams range and we recommend the same installation process (see main beams).

CORBELSSimply use glue and nails. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch up kit). If you are supporting something with the corbels, like a shelf, screws are recommended for extra strength.

REDUCING THE WIDTH OF A PANEL SHEETTo reduce the width of a panel follow this procedure - it is the best way to conceal the cut:1. Firstly cut vertically down the left

hand side of the right hand bead of the panel. This will leave you with a section comprising the right hand bead and rebate, that you should retain to rejoin later.

2. Then cut away the required amount, again from the right of the panel.

3. Carefully colour the exposed core with stain from the touch-up kit.

4. Install the cut panel to the wall.5. Install the bead and rebate that

you cut away in step 1. to the wall. Because you have cut along the left hand edge of the bead the joint should be relatively well concealed.

WORKING AROUND OBSTACLESIf you wish to run panelling around an obstacle, like under a window or over a fireplace, schedule each section separately. For a balanced look you would therefore treat the left and right hand sides of the obstacle as separate areas and, if there is a central area also like under a window, treat this as a separate ‘third’ area too. Then follow the procedure outlined previously for a wall, for each area individually.

DELIVERYPlease allow 28 days for delivery, as every product is moulded and hand finished to order.

For delivery costs see website www.ukhomeinteriors.co.uk or call 0121 449 8525.

THE TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:• Sharp toothed woodworking saw.• Knives or chisels (for trimming).• Oval-headed nails or pins for panelling• Hammer and nail punch.• Adhesive.• Touch-up kit (contains filler/stain/brown wax).

PLEASE NOTE Due to the ‘gnarled’ and hand made nature of these products there may be some minimal fluctuation in sizes from those shown in this brochure. Also, because our products are hand stained to look like ‘natural’ old wood there will be fluctuations in colour.

As these products are hand-made to your order we regret that we cannot offer refunds, unless there is a product defect. Any defective product which you wish to be replaced will be done so as quickly as possible.

Once your order is placed it cannot be cancelled.

It is the customer’s responsibility to ensure that all specification information supplied by the customer, or a third party on the customers behalf, is correct. ukhomeinteriors accepts no responsibility for products that have been supplied to the requested specifications should those specifications subsequently be found to be incorrect.

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TRANSFORM YOUR HOME, THE EASY WAY